Table of Contents

Start

Page 1 of 259

VACATI ON RAMBLES

BY

THOMAS HUGHES, Q. C.

( ' vacuus vi at or ' )

AUTHOR OF ' TOM BROWN' S SCHOOLDAYS'

PREFACE

Dear C So you want me t o hunt up and

edi t al l t he " Vacuus Vi at or " l et t er s whi ch r ny good

ol d f r i ends t he edi t or s of The Spect at or have been

ki nd enough t o pr i nt dur i ng t hei r l ong and benef i cent

owner shi p of t hat f amous j our nal ! But one who has

passed t he Psal mi st ' s " Age of Man, " and i s by no

means enamour ed of hi s own ear l y l ucubr at i ons ( so

f ar as he r ecol l ect s t hem) , must have mor e di l i gence

and assur ance t han your f at her t o under t ake such a

t ask. But t hi s I can do wi t h pl easur e — gi ve t hem t o

you t o do what ever you l i ke wi t h t hem, so f ar as I

have any pr oper t y i n, or cont r ol over t hem.

How di d t hey come t o be wr i t t en ? Wel l , i n t hose

days we wer e young mar r i ed f ol k wi t h a gr owi ng

f ami l y, and i ncome enough t o keep a modest house

and pay our way, but none t o spar e f or menus

pl ai si r s, of whi ch " gl obe t r ot t i ng " ( as i t i s now

cal l ed) i n our hol i days was our f avour i t e. So, cast i ng

about f or t he wher ewi t hal t o i ndul ge our t ast e, t he

" happy t hought " came t o send l et t er s by t he way t o

my f r i ends at 1 Wel l i ngt on St r eet , i f t hey coul d see

t hei r way t o t ake t hem at t he usual t ar i f f f or ar t i cl es.

They agr eed, and so hel ped us t o i ndul ge i n our

vi Vacat i on Rambl es

f avour i t e past i me, and t he habi t once cont r act ed has

l ast ed al l t hese year s.

Page 2 of 259

How about t he name ? Wel l , I t ook i t f r om t he

wel l - known l i ne of Juvenal , " Cant ab i t vacuus cor am

l at r one vi at or , " whi ch may be f r eel y r ender ed, " The

har d - up gl obe t r ot t er wi l l whi st l e at t he hi ghway-

man " ; and, I f ancy, sel ect ed i t t o r emi nd our sel ves

cheer f ul l y upon what sl ender hel p f r om t he Banki ng

wor l d we managed t o t r ot cheer f ul l y al l acr oss Eur ope.

I wi l l add a f ami l y st or y connect ed wi t h t he name

whi ch gr eat l y del i ght ed us at t he t i me. One of t he

l et t er s r eached your gr andmot her when a smal l boy-

cousi n of your s ( si nce devel oped i nt o a di st i ngui shed

" dar k bl ue " at hl et e and M. A. Oxon. ) was st ayi ng

wi t h her f or hi s hol i days. He had j ust begun Lat i n,

and was r at her pr oud of hi s new l or e, so your gr and-

mot her asked hi m how he shoul d const r ue " Vacuus

Vi at or . " Af t er ser i ous t hought f or a mi nut e, and not

wi t hout a modest bl ush, he r epl i ed, " I t hi nk, gr anny,

i t means a wander i ng cow " ! You must make my

peace wi t h t he " M. A. Oxon. " i f he shoul d ever di s -

cover t hat I have bet r ayed t hi s ear l y essay of hi s i n

cl assi cal t r ansl at i on.

Your l ovi ng Fat her ,

THOS. HUGHES.

Oct ober 1895.

G

470

CONTENTS

EUROPE— 1862 t o 1866

YEAR

PAGE

1862.

August 14.

Page 3 of 259

For ei gn Par t s 1

22.

Bonn . . . .

4

29.

. Muni ch . . . .

9

Sept ember 2.

The Tyr ol .

I f )

10.

Vi enna . . . .

20

Page 4 of 259

13.

The Danube .

26

24.

Const ant i nopl e

32

30.

Const ant i nopl e

39

Oct ober 1.

At hens . . . .

45

4.

Page 5 of 259

At hens

52

8.

The Run Home

60

1863.

Sept ember 13.

Di eppe . . . .

64

17.

Bat hi ng at Di eppe

70

20.

Nor mandy

Page 6 of 259

77

27.

Cl eani ngs f r om Boul ogne

83

1866.

August 14.

Bl ankenber ghe

- 7

Sept ember 1.

Bel gi an Bat hi ng .

92

8.

Bel gi an Boat s

Page 7 of 259

97

Vl l l

Vacat i on Rambl es

PAGE

AMERI CA

1870. August . On Boar d t he Per uvi an

Mout h of t he St . Lawr ence

Mont r eal .

Mont r eal .

El mwood .

El mwood .

Sept ember . Cambr i dge

New Yor k

West Poi nt

Ni agar a

St or m Lake

For t Dodge

Chi cago

Phi l adel phi a

Washi ngt on

Oct ober . Sout hbor ough

I t haca

AMERI CA— 1880 t o 1887

1880. Sept ember 1. The Cumber l and Mount ai ns

10. The Luxur y of Loaf i ng

Li f e i n Tennessee

A For est Ri de

The Nat i ves .

Our For est er

Oct ober 30. The Negr o " Nat i ves"

Cont ent s

I X

YEAR

1880

Page 8 of 259

Oct ober .

The Openi ng Day .

1884. Li f e i n an Amer i can Li ner

1884. Sept ember 16. Li f e i n Texas

1885. 4. Cr ossi ng t he At l ant i c

1886. 24. Not es f r om t he West .

1887. Apr i l 2. " West war d Ho ! .

Sept ember 19. The Her mi t .

Oct ober 5. Amer i can Opi ni on on t he Uni on

PAGE

222

228 f

233

238

243

248

252

257

1876.

1884. Mar ch

1888.

August

EUROPE— 1876 t o 1895

A Wi nt er Mor ni ng' s Ri de .

22. Sout hpor t

A Vi l l age Fest i val

The " Vi ct or i a, " New Cut .

30. Whi t by and t he Her r i ng Tr ade

31. Whi t by and t he Her r i ng Tr ade

Sept ember 7. Sunday by t he Sea

Page 9 of 259

28. Si ngi ng- Mat ches i n Wessex

1889. Sept ember 21. The Di vi ni ng- Rod

1890. Apr i l 5. Sequah . . . .

August 15. Fr ench Popul ar Feel i ng

23. Royat l es Bai ns .

30. Royat l es Bai ns .

Sept ember 6. Auver gne en Fet e

1891. Apr i l 1. Scoppi o del Car r o

1893. 8. A Scamper at East er .

15. Lour des . . . .

261

268

274

278

283

286

289

294

299

303

307

312

317

322

327

332

337

Vacat i on Rambl es

YEAR

1893. Apr i l

Jul y

1894. May.

Oct ober

1895. Apr i l

1870.

22. f ont ar abi a .

2. Echoes f r om Auver gne

10. La Bour boul e

17. Comi t e des Fet es .

Page 10 of 259

24. Dogs and Fl ower s

1. Dut ch Boys .

6. " Poor Paddy- Land ! " —I .

13. " Poor Paddy- Land ! " —I I .

21. " Panem et Ci r censes"

Rome— East er Day

Bost on — John t o Jonat han

PAGE

344

349

352

356

360

363

367

371

375

380

385

VACATI ON RAMBLES

EUROPE— 1862 t o 1866

For ei gn Par t s, l Uh August 1862.

Dear Mr . Edi t or — Ther e ar e f ew sweet er moment s i n

t he year t han t hose i n whi ch one i s engaged i n choosi ng

t he vacat i on hat . No ot her gar ment i mpl i es so much.

A vi st a of comi ng i dl eness f l oat s t hr ough t he br ai n as you

st op bef or e t he hat t er ' s at di f f er ent poi nt s i n your dai l y

wal k, and consi der t he l ast new t hi ng i n wi deawakes.

Then t her e r i ses bef or e t he mi nd' s eye t he i mmi nent bl i ss

of emanci pat i on f r om t he r egul at i on chi mney- pot of

Cockney Engl and. Two- t hi r ds of al l pl easur e r esi de i n

ant i ci pat i on and r et r ospect ; and t he ant i ci pat i on of t he

year l y exodus i n a sof t f el t i s amongst t he l east al l oyed

of al l l ooki ngs f or war d t o t he j aded man of busi ness.

By t he way, di d i t ever occur t o you, si r , t hat her ei n l i es

t he t r ue answer t o t hat Sphi nx r i ddl e so of t en asked i n

vai n, even of Not es and Quer i es: What i s t he or i gi n of

t he pr over b " As mad as a hat t er " 1 The i nvent or of t he

pr esent hat of ci vi l i sat i on was t he t ypi cal hat t er . Ther e,

I wi l l not char ge you anyt hi ng f or t he sol ut i on ; but we

ar e not t o be f or ever oppr essed by t he r esul t s of t hi s

gr eat i nsani t y. Bet t er t i mes ar e i n st or e f or us, or I

mi st ake t he si gns of t he t i mes i n t he st r eet s and shop

wi ndows. Bear ds and chi mney- pot s cannot l ong co- exi st .

B

%

Page 11 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es

I was ver y near l y begui l ed t hi s year by a f ancy ar t i cl e

whi ch I saw i n sever al wi ndows. The pur chase woul d

have been cont r ar y t o al l my pr i nci pl es, f or t he hat i n

quest i on i s a st i f f one, wi t h a l ow, r ound cr own. But

i t s f asci nat i on consi st s i n t he syst em of

vent i l at i on —

al l r ound t he i nsi de r uns a r ow of open cel l s, whi ch, i n

f act , keep t he hat away f r om t he head, and l et i n so many

cur r ent s of f r esh ai r . You mi ght f i l l hal f t he cel l s wi t h

ci gar s, and so save car r yi ng a case and add t o t he t ast e-

f ul ness of your hat at t he same t i me, whi l e you woul d get

pl ent y of ai r t o keep your head cool t hr ough t he r emai n-

i ng cel l s.

My pr i nci pl es, however , r al l i ed i n t i me, and I came

away wi t h a genui ne sof t f el t af t er al l , wi t h not hi ng

but a smal l hol e on each si de f or vent i l at i on. The sof t

f el t i s t he onl y r eal l y cat hol i c cover , equal t o al l occasi ons,

i n whi ch you can do anyt hi ng ; f or i nst ance, l i e f l at on

your back on sand or t ur f , and l ook st r ai ght up i nt o t he

heavens — t he f i r st t hi ng t he r el eased Cockney r ushes t o

do. Onl y once a year may i t be al ways al l our l ot s t o

get a r eal t ast e of t he t r ue hol i day f eel i ng ; t o dr op down

i nt o some handy pl ace, wher e no l et t er can f i nd us ; t o

l ook up i nt o t he gr eat sky, and over t he l aughi ng sea,

and t hi nk about not hi ng ; t o unst r i ng t he bow, and f ai r l y

say : " Ther e shal l no f i ght be got out of us j ust now ; so,

ol d wor l d, i f you mean t o go wr ong, you may go and be

hanged ! " To f eel al l t he t i me t hat bl essed assur ance

whi ch does come home t o one at such t i mes, and scar cel y

ever at any ot her , t hat our f al l i ng out of t he f i ght i s not

of t he l east consequence ; t hat , what ever we may do, t he

ol d wor l d wi l l not go wr ong but r i ght , and ever r i ght er

— not our way, nor any ot her man' s way, but God' s

way. A good deal of sneer i ng and snubbi ng has been

wast ed of l at e, si r ( as you have had mor e occasi on

t han one t o r emar k) , on us poor f ol ks, who wi l l i nsi st on

hol di ng what we f i nd i n our Bi bl es; what has been so

gl or i ousl y put i n ot her l anguage by t he gr eat poet of our

t i me : —

Vacat i on Rambl es

That not hi ng wal ks wi t h ai ml ess f eet ;

That not one l i f e shal l he dest r oy' d,

Or cast as r ubbi sh t o t he voi d,

When God hat h made t he pi l e compl et e.

I suppose peopl e who f eel put out because we won' t

I t el i eve t hat t he gr eat est par t of cr eat i on i s goi ng t o t he

bad can never i n t he nat ur e of t hi ngs get hol d of t he t r ue

hol i day f eel i ng, so one i s wast i ng t i me i n wi shi ng i t f or

t hem. However , I am get t i ng i nt o qui t e anot her l i ne

f r om t he one I meant t o t r avel i n ; so shal l l eave specu-

Page 12 of 259

l at i ng and push acr oss t he Channel . Ther e ar e sever al

quest i ons whi ch mi ght be suggest ed wi t h advant age t o

t he Ci vi l Ser vi ce Exami ner , t o be put t o t he next

Bel gi um at t aches who come bef or e t hem. Why ar e

Bel gi an hop- pol es, on an aver age, f i ve or si x f eet l onger

t han Engl i sh ? How does t hi s ext r a l engt h af f ect t he

cr ops ? The Bel gi ans pl ant cabbages t oo, and ot her vege-

t abl es ( even pot at oes I saw) bet ween t he r ows of hops.

Does i t answer 1 Al l t he Engl i sh hop- gr ower s, I bel i eve,

scout t he i dea. I f ai l ed t o di scover what wood t hei r hop-

pol es ar e ? One of my f el l ow- t r avel l er s, by way of bei ng

up t o ever yt hi ng, i nf or med me t hat t hey wer e gr own i n

Bel gi um on pur pose; a f act whi ch di d not hel p me much.

He coul dn' t say exact l y what wood i t was. Then a ver y

l ar ge pr opor t i on of t he f emal e popul at i on of Bel gi um

spends many hour s of t he day, at t hi s t i me of year , on i t s

knees i n t he f i el ds ; and t hi s not onl y f or weedi ng pur -

poses, f or I saw women and gi r l s cut t i ng t he af t er mat h

and ot her l i ght cr ops i n t hi s posi t i on. Cer t ai nl y, t hey

ar e t hus near er t hei r wor k, and save t hemsel ves st oopi ng ;

but one has a sor t of pr ej udi ce agai nst women goi ng

about t he count r y on al l f our s, l i ke Nebuchadnezzar . I s

i t bet t er f or t hei r heal t h ? Don' t t hey get housemai d' s

knees 1 But , above al l , i s i t we or t he Bel gi ans who don' t

know i n t hi s ni net eent h cent ur y, how t o make cor n

shocks 1 I n cvovy par t of Engl and I have ever been i n

i n har vest t i me, we j ust make up t he sheaves and t hen

si mpl y st and si x or ei ght of t hem t oget her , t he ear s up-

Vacat i on Rambl es

war ds, and so make our shock. But t he Bel gi an makes

hi s shock of f our sheaves, ear s upwar ds, and t hen on t he

t op of t hese pl aces anot her sheaf upsi de down. Thi s

cr owni ng sheaf , whi ch i s t i ed near t he bot t om, i s spr ead

out over t he shock, t o whi ch i t t hus f or ms a sor t of

makeshi f t t hat ch. One of t he t wo met hods must be

r adi cal l y wr ong. Does t hi s r eal l y keep t he r ai n out , and

so pr event t he ear s f r om gr owi ng i n damp weat her % I

shoul d have t hought i t woul d onl y have hel ped t o hol d

t he wet and i ncr ease t he heat . I f so, don' t you t hi nk i t

i s r eal l y al most a casus bel l i ? Qui n sai d t o t he el der l y

gent l eman i n t he cof f ee- house ( af t er he had handed hi m

t he must ar d f or t he t hi r d t i me i n vai n) , dashi ng hi s hand

down on t he t abl e, " D you, si r , you shal l eat

must ar d wi t h your ham ! " and so we mi ght say t o t he

Bel gi ans i f t hey ar e wr ong, " You shal l make your shocks

pr oper l y. " Fancy t wo hi ghl y ci vi l i sed nat i ons havi ng

gone on t hese t housand year s si de by si de, gr owi ng cor n

and eat i ng br ead wi t hout f i ndi ng out whi ch i s t he r i ght

way t o make cor n shocks.

Bonn, 22nd August 1862.

I am si t t i ng at a t abl e some f or t y f eet l ong, f r om

whi ch most of t he guest s have r et i r ed. The f ew l ef t ar e

Page 13 of 259

smoki ng and t al ki ng gest i cul at i ngl y. I am dr i nki ng

dur i ng t he i nt er val s of wr i t i ng t o you, si r , a bever age

composed of a hal f f l ask of whi t e wi ne, a bot t l e of sel t zer

wat er , and a l ump of sugar ( i f you can get one of i ce t o

add i t wi l l i mpr ove t he mi xt ur e) . I t ake i t f or gr ant ed

t hat you despi se t he Rhi ne, l i ke most Engl i shmen, but ,

si r , I submi t t hat a l and wher e one can get t he above

pot at i on f or a f r act i on over what one woul d pay f or a

pot of beer i n Engl and, and can, mor eover , get t he

weat her whi ch makes such a dr i nk del i ci ousl y r ef r eshi ng,

i s not t o be l i ght l y t hought of . But I am not goi ng i nt o

a r hapsody on t he Bhi ne, t hough I can st r ongl y r ecom-

mend my dr i nk t o al l economi cal l y di sposed t r avel l er s.

Vacat i on Rambl es

Al l I hope t o do, i s, t o gossi p wi t h you, as I move al ong ;

and as my r oad l ay up t he Ehi ne, you must t ake t hat

wi t h t he r est .

Our f i r st hal t on t he r i ver was at Bonn. A uni ver si t y

t own i s al ways i nt er est i ng, and t hi s one mor e t han most

ot her f or ei gn ones, as t he pl ace wher e Pr i nce Al ber t ' s

educat i on was begun, and wher e Bunsen ended hi s l i f e.

I made an ef f or t t o get t o hi s gr ave, whi ch I was t ol d

was i n a cemet er y near t he t own, but coul d not f i nd i t .

I hope i t wi l l l ong r emai n an obj ect of i nt er est t o Engl i sh-

men af t er t he gener at i on who knew hi m has passed away.

Ther e i s no one t o whom we have done mor e scant y

j ust i ce, and t hat unl ucky and most unf ai r essay of W ' s

i s t he cr owni ng i nj ust i ce of al l . I am not goi ng i nt o hi s

mer i t s as a st at esman, t heol ogi an, or ant i quar y, whi ch,

i ndeed, I am whol l y i ncompet ent t o cr i t i ci se. The onl y

book of hi s I ever ser i ousl y t r i ed t o mast er , hi s Chur ch

of t he Fut ur e, ent i r el y f l oor ed me. But t he wonder f ul

dept h of hi s sympat hy and i nsi ght ! — how he woul d l i st en

t o and counsel any man, whet her he wer e bent on di s -

cover i ng t he exact shape of t he buckl e wor n by some

t r i be whi ch di sappear ed bef or e t he Del uge, or upon r e-

gener at i ng t he wor l d af t er t he newest ni net eent h cent ur y

pat t er n, or anyt hi ng bet ween t he t wo — we may wai t a

l ong t i me bef or e we see anyt hi ng l i ke i t agai n i n a man

of hi s posi t i on and l ear ni ng. And what a pl ace he f i l l ed

i n Engl i sh soci et y ! I bel i eve f i ne l adi es gr umbl ed about

" t he sor t of peopl e " t hey met at t hose gr eat gat her i ngs

at Car l t on Ter r ace, but t hey al l went , and, what was mor e

t o t he pur pose, al l t he f or emost men and women of t he

day went , and wer e seen and hear d of hundr eds of young

men of al l nat i ons and cal l i ngs ; and t hei r wi ves, i f t hey

had any, wer e asked by Bunsen on t he most t hor oughl y

cat hol i c pr i nci pl es. And i f any man or woman seemed

i l l at ease, t hey woul d f i nd hi m by t hei r si de i n a mi nut e,

l eadi ng t hem i nt o t he bal cony, i f t he ni ght wer e f i ne, and

poi nt i ng out , as he speci al l y l oved t o do, t he cont r ast of

t he vi ews up Wat er l oo Pl ace on t he one hand, and acr oss

Page 14 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es

t he Gr een Par k t o t he Abbey and t he Houses, on t he

ot her , or i n some ot her way set t i ng t hem at t hei r ease

agai n wi t h a t act as wi se and subt l e as hi s l ear ni ng.

But I am get t i ng f ar f r om t he Rhi ne, I see, and t he

Uni ver si t y of Bonn. Of cour se I st udi ed t he t i t l es of

t he books exposed f or sal e i n t he wi ndows of t he book -

sel l er s, and t he r esul t , as r egar ds Engl i sh l i t er at ur e, was

f ar f r om sat i sf act or y. We wer e r epr esent ed i n t he shop

of t he Par ker and Son of Bonn, by one vol . of Scot t ' s

Poems; t he puf f car d of t he London Soci et y, wi t h a

Mi l l ai s dr awi ng of a young man and woman t her eupon,

and not hi ng mor e ; but , by way of compensat i on I

suppose, a book wi t h a gaudy cover was put i n a

pr omi nent pl ace, and t i t l ed Tag und Nacht i n London, by

Jul i us Rodenbur g. Ther e was a doubl e pi ct ur e on t he

cover : above, a st r eet scene, compr i si ng an el abor at e

equi page wi t h t wo f l unkeys behi nd, a hansom, f i gur es of

Hi ghl ander s, gi r l s, bl i nd beggar s, et c. , and men car r yi ng

adver t i sement s of " Samuel Br ot her s, " and " Cr emor ne

Gar dens " ; whi l e i n t he l ower compar t ment was an

under gr ound scene of a pol i ceman f l ashi ng hi s bul l ' s eye

on gr oups of cr ouchi ng f ol ks ; al t oget her a l oat hsome ki nd

of book f or one t o f i nd doi ng dut y as t he r epr esent at i ve

book of one' s count r y wi t h young Ger many. I was a

l i t t l e consol ed by seei ng a r andan named The Lor el ei l yi ng

by t he bank, whi ch, t hough not an out r i gger , woul d not

have di sgr aced any bui l di ng yar d at Lambet h or at

Oxf or d. Ver y l i kel y i t came out of one of t hem, by t he

way. But l et us hope i t i s t he f i r st st ep t owar ds t he

i nt r oduct i on of r owi ng at Bonn, and t hat i n a f ew year s

Oxf or d and Cambr i dge may make up cr ews t o go and beat

Bonn, and al l t he ot her Ger man Uni ver si t i es, and a New

Engl and cr ew f r om Cambr i dge, Massachuset t s. What a

cour se t hat r each of t he Rhi ne at Bonn woul d make !

No boat ' s l engt h t o be gai ned by t he t oss f or choi ce of

si des, as at Henl ey or Put ney ; no Ber kshi r e or Mi ddl esex

shor e t o be pai d f or . A good ei ght - oar r ace woul d t each

young Ger many mor e of young Engl and t han any amount

Vacat i on Rambl es

of per usal of Tag wnd Nacht , I t ake i t . I conf ess mysel f

t o a st r ong sent i ment al f eel i ng about Rol andseck. The

st or y of Rol and t he Br ave i s, af t er al l , one of t he most

t ouchi ng of al l human st or i es, t hough t our i st s who dr op

t hei r H' s may be hur r yi ng under hi s t ower ever y day i n

cheap st eamer s ; and i t i s one of a gr oup of t he most

char act er i st i c st or i es of t he age of chi val r y, al l havi ng a

connect i ng l i nk at Roncesval l es. " What ot her bat t l e

car r i es one i nt o t hr ee such gr oups of r omance as t hi s of

Rol and, t he gr i m t r agedy of Ber nar d del Car pi o and hi s

dear f at her , and t hat of t he peer l ess Dur andar t e 1 When

I was a boy t her e wer e bal l ads on al l t hese subj ect s

whi ch wer e ver y popul ar , but ar e near l y f or got t en by

t hi s t i me. I used t o have gr eat t r oubl e t o pr eser ve a

ser ene f r ont , I know, whenever I hear d one of t hem wel l

Page 15 of 259

sung, especi al l y t hat of " Dur andar t e" ( by Monk Lewi s) ,

I bel i eve. Ay, and af t er t he l apse of many year s I

scar cel y know wher e t o go f or t he beau i deal of kni ght -

hood summed up i n a f ew wor ds bet t er t han t o t hat same

bal l ad : —

Ki nd i n manner s, f ai r i n f avour ,

Mi l d i n t emper , f i er ce i n f i ght , —

War r i or pur er , gent l er , br aver ,

Never shal l behol d t he l i ght .

But much as I pr i ze Rol andseck f or i t s memor i es of

chi val r i c const ancy and t ender ness, Mayence i s my

f avour i t e pl ace on t he Rhi ne, as t he bi r t hpl ace of Gut en-

bur g, t he adopt ed home, and cent r e of t he wor k of our

gr eat count r yman, St . Boni f ace, and t he most f ul l y peopl ed

and st i r r i ng t own of moder n Rhi nel and. We had onl y

an hour t o spend t her e, so I sal l i ed at once i nt o t he t own

t o sear ch f or Gut enbur g' s house — t he t hi r d t i me I have

st ai ' t ed on t he same er r and, and wi t h t he same r esul t . I

di dn' t f i nd i t . But t her e i t i s ; at l east t he gui de- books

say so. I n vai n di d I beseechi ngl y appeal t o Ger man

af t er Ger man, man, woman, and mai d, " Wo i st das Hans

von Gut enbur g — das Haus wo Gut enbur g wohnt e V I got

ei t her a bl ank st ar e, convi nci ng me of t he annoyi ng f act

8 Vacat i on Rambl es

t hat not a wor d I sai d was under st ood, or di r ect i ons t o

t he st at ue, whi ch I knew as wel l as any of t hem. At

l ast I f el l upon a young pr i est , and, accost i ng hi m i n

Fr ench, got some l i ght out of hi m. He of f er ed t o t ake

me par t of t he way, and as we wal ked si de by si de,

suddenl y t ur ned t o me wi t h an ai r of pl eased ast oni sh-

ment , and sai d, " You admi r e Gut enbur g, t hen 1 " To

whi ch I r epl i ed, " Rat her ! " Why, si r , how i n t he wor l d

shoul d you and I , and t housands mor e i ndi f f er ent moder n

Engl i shmen, not t o ment i on t hose of al l ot her nat i ons, get

our br ead but f or hi m and hi s pupi l Caxt on 1 However ,

t he young pr i est coul d onl y t ake me t o wi t hi n t wo st r eet s,

and t hen went on hi s way, l eavi ng me wi t h expr ess

di r ect i ons, i n t r yi ng t o f ol l ow whi ch I f el l speedi l y upon a

Ger man f ai r . I am i ncl i ned t o t hi nk t hat t her e ar e no

boys i n Ger many, and t hat , i f t her e wer e, t her e woul d

be not hi ng f or t hem t o do ; but f or chi l dr en t her e i s no

such pl ace. Thi s f ai r at Mayence was a per f ect l i t t l e

par adi se f or chi l dr en. Thi nk of our wr et ched mer r y- go-

r ounds, si r , wi t h not hi ng but some si x or ei ght st upi d

hobby- hor ses r evol vi ng on bar e pol es, and t hen i magi ne

such mer r y- go- r ounds as t hose of Mayence f ai r . They

l ook l i ke l ar ge umbr el l a t ent s or nament ed wi t h gay f l ags

and f acet i ous pai nt i ngs out si de, and hung wi t hi n, r ound

t he cent r al post whi ch suppor t s t he whol e, wi t h mi r r or s,

f l ags, bel l s, pi ct ur es, and br i ght col our ed dr aper y. Hal f

conceal ed by t he r ed or bl ue dr aper y, i s t he pr opr i et or of

t he est abl i shment , who gr i nds f amous t unes on a f i r st - r at e

bar r el or gan when t he mer r y- go- r ound i s set goi ng, and

keeps an eye on hi s j uveni l e f ar es. The whol e i s t ur ned

by a pony or by machi ner y. Then, f or mount s, t he

chi l dr en have choi ce of some t hi r t y hobby- hor ses, or can

Page 16 of 259

r i de on swans or dr agons, r i chl y capar i soned, or i n easy

vi s- a- vi s seat s. When t he compl ement of yout hf ul r i der s

i s obt ai ned, on a si gnal of f goes t he bar r el or gan and t he

pony and t he whol e concer n — pi ct ur es, l ooki ng- gl asses,

bel l s, dr aper y, and al l begi n t o r evol ve, wi t h a f asci nat i ng

j i ngl i ng and emphasi s, and at t wi ce t he pace of any Br i t i sh

Vacat i on Rambl es

mer r y- go- r ound I ever saw. I t i s ver y comi cal t o wat ch

t he gr avi t y of t he l i t t l e Deut sch r i der s. They ar e of al l

cl asses, f r om t he hi ghl y dr essed l i t t l e madchm, down t o t he

r agged car t er - boy, wi t h a coi l of r ope over hi s. shoul der ,

and no shoes, r i di ng a gi l ded swan, but al l i mpr essed wi t h

t he sol emni t y of t he occasi on. But her e I am r unni ng on

about f un of t he f ai r , and mi ssi ng Gut enbur g' s house, as

I di d i n r eal i t y, f i ndi ng i n t he mi dst of my st ar i ng and

gr i nni ng t hat I had onl y t i me t o get t o t he boat ; so wi t h

one l ook at Gut enbur g' s st at ue I went of f .

The cr ops t hr ough al l t hese gl or i ous Rhi ne val l eys

r i ght away up t o Hei del ber g l ook spl endi d, par t i cul ar l y

t he her b pant agr uel i on, whi ch i s mor e l ar gel y gr own t han

when I was l ast her e. Eope enough wi l l be made t hi s

year f r om hemp gr own bet ween Dar mst adt and Hei del ber g

t o hang al l t he scoundr el s i n t he wor l d, and t he honest

men t o boot ; and t he t obacco l ooks magni f i cent . They

wer e gat her i ng t he l eaves as we passed. A hal f - pi cked

t obacco f i el d, wi t h t he bar e st umps at one end, and t he

r i ch- l eaved pl ant s at t he ot her , has a comi cal l y f or l or n

l ook.

Hei del ber g I t hought mor e beaut i f ul t han ever ; and

si nce I had been t her e a ver y f i ne hot el , one of t he best I

have ever been i n, has been bui l t cl ose t o t he st at i on, wi t h

a gl ass gal l er y 100 f eet l ong, and mor e, adj oi ni ng t he

" Spei sesaal , " i n whi ch you may gast r onomi se t o your

hear t ' s cont ent , at t he most moder at e f i gur e. Her e we

bi d adi eu t o t he Rhi nel and.

Muni ch, 2Wi August 1862.

A bi r d' s- eye vi ew of any count r y must al ways be un-

sat i sf act or y. St i l l i t i s bet t er t han not hi ng, and i n t he

absence of a human vi ew, one may be t hankf ul f or i t . My

vi ew of Wur t ember g was of t he most bi r d' s- eye ki nd.

The f i r st t hi ng t hat st r i kes one i s t he absence of al l f ences

except i n t he i mmedi at e nei ghbour hood of t owns. Even

t he r ai l way has no f ence, except f or a f ew yar ds wher e a

i o Vacat i on Rambl es

r oad cr osses t he l i ne, and her e and t her e a hedge of acaci a,

or bar ber r y bushes ( t he ber r i es wer e hangi ng r ed r i pe on

t he l at t er ) , whi ch ar e ver y pr et t y, but woul d not i n any

pl ace keep out a ser i ousl y- mi nded cow or pi g.

Page 17 of 259

Wur t ember g i s addi ct ed t o t he cul t i vat i on of cr ops

whi ch mi ni st er t o man' s l uxur i es r at her t han t o hi s

necessi t i es. The pr opor t i on of l and under f r ui t , poppi es,

t obacco, and hops, t o t hat under cor n, was ver y st r i ki ng.

Ther e was a spl endi d hemp cr op her e al so. They wer e

gat her i ng t he poppy- heads, as we passed, i nt o sacks. The

women and gi r l s bot h her e and i n Bavar i a seem t o do

t hr ee- f our t hs of t he agr i cul t ur al wor k ; t he har der , such

as r eapi ng and mowi ng, as wel l as t he l i ght er . The beds

of peat ar e magni f i cent , and ver y neat l y managed. At

f i r st I t hought we had ent er ed enor mous bl ack br i ck - f i el ds,

f or t he peat i s cut i nt o smal l br i ck- shaped pi eces, and

st acked i n r ows, j ust as one sees i n t he best managed of

our br i ck- f i el ds. As one near s St ut t gar t t he vi l l age

chur ches begi n t o show si gns of t he di f f er ence i n l ongi t ude.

Got hi c spi r es and ar ches gi ve pl ace t o East er n cl ock -

t ower s, wi t h t ops l i ke t he cupol as of mosques, t i nned over ,

and gl i t t er i ng i n t he hot sun. I hear t hat i t was a f ancy

of t he l at e Emper or Joseph t o copy t he ol d enemi es of hi s

count r y i n ar chi t ect ur e ; but t hat woul d not account f or

t he pr eval ence of t he habi t i n hi s nei ghbour ' s t er r i t or y.

I f ancy one begi ns t o f eel t he ol d nei ghbour hood of t he

Tur ks i n t hese par t s. The houses ar e al l r oomy, and

t her e i s no si gn of pover t y amongst t he peopl e. They

have a f ancy f or wear i ng no shoes and scant pet t i coat s i n

many di st r i ct s ; but i t i s evi dent l y a mat t er of choi ce.

Al t oget her , t he whol e f i ne, open, wel l - wooded count r y,

f r om Br uchsal t o Muni ch, gi ves one t he f eel i ng t hat an

easy- goi ng, wel l - t o- do peopl e i nhabi t and enj oy i t .

As f or Muni ch i t sel f , i t i s a ci t y whi ch sur pr i sed me

mor e pl easant l y t han al most any one I ever r emember t o

have ent er ed. One had a sor t of vague not i on t hat t he

l at e ki ng had a t ast e f or t he f i ne ar t s, and spent a good

deal of hi s own and hi s subj ect s' money i n i ndul gi ng t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 1

t ast e af or esai d i n hi s capi t al . But one al so knew t hat he

had been t yr anni sed over by Lol a Mont es, and had made

a count ess of her — and had not succeeded i n weat her i ng

1848; so t hat , on t he whol e, one had no gr eat bel i ef i n

any good wor k f r om such a r ul er .

Muni ch gi ves one a hi gher not i on of t he ex- ki ng ; as

l ong as t he ci t y st ands, he wi l l have l ef t hi s mar k on i t .

On ever y si de t her e ar e magni f i cent new st r eet s, and publ i c

bui l di ngs and st at ues ; t he r ai l way t er mi nus i s t he f i nest

I have ever seen ; ever y chur ch, f r om t he Cat hedr al down-

war ds, i s i n beaut i f ul or der , and hi ghl y decor at ed ; and i t

i s not onl y i n t he publ i c bui l di ngs t hat one meet s wi t h

t he evi dences of car e and t ast e. The hot el i n whi ch we

st ayed, f or i nst ance, i s bui l t of br i ck, cover ed wi t h some

sor t of cement , whi ch gi ves i t t he appear ance of t er r a- cot t a,

and i s f or col our t he most f asci nat i ng bui l di ng mat er i al .

The cei l i ngs and cor ni ces of t he r ooms ar e al l car ef ul l y

and t ast ef ul l y pai nt ed, and al l about t he t own one sees

f r escoes and or nament at i on of al l ki nds, whi ch show t hat

t he peopl e del i ght i n seei ng t hei r ci t y l ook br i ght and

gay ; and ever y one admi t s t hat al l t hi s i s due t o t he ex -

ki ng Lewi s. But he has anot her cl ai m on t he gr at i t ude

Page 18 of 259

of t he good f ol k of Muni ch. The Bavar i ans wer e gi ven

t o beer above al l ot her peopl e, and t he peopl e of Muni ch

above al l ot her Bavar i ans, l ong bef or e he came t o t he

t hr one ; and f or mer ki ngs, avai l i ng t hemsel ves of t he

nat i onal t ast e, had est abl i shed a " Hof - Br ei haus, " wher e

t he monar ch sol d t he nat i onal bever age t o hi s peopl e.

Ki ng Lewi s f ound t he char act er of t he r oyal beer not

what i t shoul d be, and t he r est of t he met r opol i t an

br ewer s wer e al so f al l i ng away i nt o evi l ways of adul t er at -

i ng and dr uggi ng. He r ef or med t he " Hof - Br ei haus, " so

t hat f or many year s not hi ng but t he soundest possi bl e

beer was br ewed t her e, whi ch i s sol d t o t he buyer s and

yet cheaper t han i n any ot her house i n Muni ch. The

publ i c t ast e has been t hus so hi ghl y educat ed t hat t her e

i s no sel l i ng unwhol esome beer now. A young ar t i st t ook

me t o t hi s cel ebr at ed t ap. Unl ucki l y i t was a wet even-

12 Vacat i on Rambl es

i ng, so we had t o si t at one of t he t abl es, under a l ong

l i ne of sheds, i nst ead of i n an adj acent gar den. Ther e

was a gr eat cr owd, some 300 or 400 i mbi ber s j ammed

t oget her , of al l r anks. At our t abl e t he company wer e

t he ar t i st and mysel f , a Mi ddl esex magi st r at e, t wo pr i vat es,

and a non- commi ssi oned of f i cer , and a man whom I set

down as a smal l f ar mer . My back r ubbed agai nst a

voci f er ous st udent , who was hobnobbi ng wi t h al l comer s.

Ther e wer e Tyr ol ese and ot her cost umes about , one or

t wo of f i cer s, and a mot l ey cr owd of wor k peopl e and ot her

f ol k. The r oyal br ew- house i s i n such good r eput e t hat

no t r oubl e what ever i s t aken about anyt hi ng but havi ng

enough beer and a st or e of st one dr i nki ng- mugs, wi t h t ops

t o t hem f or t hcomi ng. Cask af t er cask i s br ought out and

t apped i n t he vaul t ed ent r ance t o t he cel l ar s, and a queue

of expect ant t hi r st y soul s wai t f or t hei r t ur n. I onl y

know as I dr ank i t how hear t i l y I wi shed t hat my poor

over wor ked br et hr en at home coul d see and t ast e t he

l i ke. But i t woul d not pay any of our gr eat br ewer s t o

devot e t hemsel ves t o t he t ask of sel l i ng r eal l y whol esome

dr i nk t o t he poor ; and I f ear t he Pr i nce of Wal es i s not

l i kel y t o come t o t he r escue. He mi ght f i nd easi er j obs

no doubt , but none t hat woul d benef i t t he bodi l y heal t h

of hi s peopl e mor e. The beer i s so l i ght t hat i t i s scar cel y

possi bl e t o get dr unk on i t . Many of t he f r equent er s of

t he pl ace si t t her e boosi ng f or f our or f i ve hour s dai l y,

and t he chance vi si t or s cer t ai nl y do not spar e t he l i quor ;

but I saw no appr oach t o dr unkenness, except a good deal

of l oud t al k.

The pi ct ur e col l ect i ons, whi ch f or m, I bel i eve, t he gr eat

at t r act i on of Muni ch, di sappoi nt ed me, especi al l y t he

moder n ones i n t he new Pi nacot hek, col l ect ed by t he ex -

ki ng, and t o whi ch he i s const ant l y addi ng now t hat he i s

l i vi ng at hi s ease as a pr i vat e gent l eman. I dar esay t hat

t hey may be ver y f i ne, but scar cel y any of t hem bi t e ; I

l i ke a pi ct ur e wi t h a t oot h i n i t — somet hi ng whi ch goes

i nt o you, and whi ch you can never f or get , l i ke t he gr eat

pi ct ur e of Ner o wal ki ng over t he bur ni ng r ui ns of Eome,

Page 19 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es i x

3

or t he execut i on pi ct ur e i n t he Spani sh depar t ment , or

t he Chr i st i an sl ave sl eepi ng bef or e t he openi ng of t he

amphi t heat r e, or Judas comi ng on t he men maki ng

t he cr oss, i n t he I nt er nat i onal Exhi bi t i on. I have r ead

no ar t cr i t i ci sm f or year s, so t hat I do not know whet her

I am not t al ki ng gr eat her esy. But , her esy or not , I am

f or t he r i ght of ever y man t o hi s own opi ni on i n mat t er s

of ar t , and i f an i nf er i or pai nt i ng gi ves me r eal pl easur e

on account of i t s subj ect , I mean t o enj oy i t and pr ai se i t ,

al l t he f i ne ar t cr i t i cs i n Chr i st endom not wi t hst andi ng. The

pi ct ur es of t he most - f amous pl aces i n Gr eece, made si nce

t he el ect i on of t he Bavar i an Pr i nce Ot ho t o t he t hr one of

Gr eece, have a speci al i nt er est of t hei r own ; but apar t

f r om t hese and some hal f dozen ot her s, I woul d f ar sooner

spend a day i n our year l y exhi bi t i on t han i n t he new

Pi nacot hek. The col ossal br onze st at ue of Bavar i a i s t he

f i nest t hi ng of t he ki nd I have ever seen ; but t he most

i nt er est i ng si ght i n Muni ch t o an Engl i shman must be t he

Chur ch of St . Boni f ace, not t he exqui si t e col our i ng pr opor -

t i ons, or t he magni f i cent monol i t hi c col umns of gr ay

mar bl e, but t he f r escoes, whi ch t el l t he st or y of t he sai nt

f r om t he t i me when he knel t and pr ayed by hi s si ck

f at her ' s bed t o t he br i ngi ng back of hi s mar t yr ed body t o

Mayence Cat hedr al . The depar t ur e of St . Boni f ace f r om

Net l ey Abbey f or Rome, t o be consecr at ed Apost l e t o t he

Ger mans, st r uck me as t he best of t hem ; but , al t oget her ,

t hey t el l ver y vi vi dl y t he whol e hi st or y of t he Engl i shman

who has t r odden most near l y i n St . Paul ' s f oot st eps. We

have r ear ed pl ent y of gr eat st at esmen, poet s, phi l osopher s,

sol di er s, but onl y t hi s one gr eat mi ssi onar y. Yet no

nat i on i n t he wor l d has mor e need of St . Boni f aces t han

we j ust now. The f i el d i s ever wi deni ng, i n I ndi a, Chi na,

Af r i ca. " We can conquer and r ul e, and t each t he heat hen

t o make r ai l ways and t r ade, but don' t seem t o be abl e t o

get at t hei r hear t s and consci ences. One f ear s al most

t hat wer e a St . Boni f ace t o come, we shoul d onl y measur e

hi m by our common t est s, and pr obabl y pr onounce hi m

wor t hl ess, or a danger ous ent husi ast . But one day, when

14 Vacat i on Rambl es

men' s wor k shal l be t est ed by al t oget her di f f er ent t est s

f r om our s of t he enl i ght ened ni net eent h cent ur y ki nd, i t

wi l l consi der abl y sur pr i se some of us t o see how t he or der

of mer i t wi l l come out . We shal l be l i kel y t o have t o

ask concer ni ng St . Boni f ace — whose name i s scar cel y

known t o one Engl i shman i n a hundr ed — and of ot her s

l i ke hi m i n spi r i t , of whom none of us have ever hear d,

Who ar e t hese count r ymen of our s, and whence come

t hey 1 And we shal l hear t he answer whi ch St . John

hear d : " I st i sunt qui vener unt ex magna t r i bul at i one

et l aver unt st ol as suas i n sangui ne Agni . " I f el t ver y

gr at ef ul t o Muni ch f or havi ng appr eci at ed t he gr eat

Page 20 of 259

Apost l e t o t he Ger mans.

The one bui l di ng i n Muni ch whi ch i s qui t e unwor t hy

of t he use t o whi ch i t i s put , i s t he Engl i sh Chur ch. The

ser vi ce i s per f or med i n a sor t of dr y cel l ar , under t he

Odeon. W T e had a ver y smal l congr egat i on, but i t was

ver y pl easant t o hear how t hey al l j oi ned i n t he r esponses.

What a pi t y i t i s t hat we ar e al ways r eady t o do i t abr oad,

and shut up agai n as soon as we get home. Even t he

si ngi ng pr osper ed gr eat l y, t hough we had no or gan.

But , al as ! si r , t he Col oni al Chur ch Soci et y have done

t hei r best t o spoi l t hi s par t of our ser vi ce abr oad. They

seem t o have accept ed f r om t he edi t or as a gi f t , t he

st er eot yped pl at es of a hymn- book, copi es of whi ch wer e

pl aced about i n t he Muni ch chur ch, and, I dar esay, may

be f ound al l over t he Cont i nent . The edi t or has t hought

i t desi r abl e t o i mpr ove our cl assi cal hymns. Concei ve

t he f ol l owi ng subst i t ut i on f or Bi shop Ken' s " Let al l t hy

conver se be si ncer e " —

I n conver sat i on be si ncer e ;

Make consci ence as t he noon - day cl ear :

Thi nk how t h' al l - seei ng God t hy ways

And al l t hy secr et t hought s sur veys.

Thi s i s onl y a f ai r speci men of t he book. Sur el y t he

Col oni al Chur ch Soci et y had bet t er hast i l y r et ur n t he

st er eot ype pl at es wi t h t hanks.

Vacat i on Rambl es 15

The Tyr ol , 2nd Sept ember 1862.

Next t o meet i ng an ol d f r i end by acci dent , t her e i s

not hi ng mor e pl easant t han comi ng i n l ong vacat i on on

some f l ower or shr ub whi ch r emi nds one of f or mer hol i day

r ambl i ngs. I n t he Tyr ol t he ot her day we came suddenl y

on a bank i n t he mount ai ns gemmed over wi t h t he cr eamy

whi t e st ar of t he dai sy of Par nassus, and i t accompani ed

us, t o our gr eat del i ght , f or 200 mi l es or mor e, t i l l

we got f ai r l y down i nt o t he pl ai ns agai n. The l ast

t i me I had seen i t was on Snowdon year s ago. When we

got a l i t t l e hi gher I pounced on a beaut i f ul l i t t l e gent i an,

whi ch I had never seen bef or e except on t he Al ps above

Lenk, i n Swi t zer l and ( t he Hauen Moos t he pass was cal l ed,

or some such name — how spel t , goodness knows) , whi ch I

once cr ossed wi t h t wo dear f r i ends on t he most beaut i f ul

day I ever r emember .

The f l or a of t he Tyr ol , at l east t hat par t of i t whi ch

l i es by t he r oadsi de, seems t o be much t he same as our s.

Wi t h t he above except i ons, I scar cel y saw a f l ower whi ch

does not gr ow on hal f t he hi l l s i n Engl and ; but t hei r

si ze and col our i ng was of t en cur i ousl y di f f er ent . The

Mi chael mas dai sy and l adi es' f i nger s, f or i nst ance, wer e

much br i ght er and mor e beaut i f ul ; on t he ot her hand,

t her e was t he most t ender t i ny hear t sease i n t he wor l d,

and f or get - me- not s, whi ch wer e ver y pl ent i f ul her e and

t her e, wer e qui t e unl i ke our s — del i cat e l i t t l e cr eat ur es, of

t he pal est bl ue i n t he wor l d, al l t he f l eshi ness and com-

f or t abl e l ook, r emi ndi ng one of mar r i age set t l ement s and

sui t abl e est abl i shment s, gone cl ean out of t hem. I n

Page 21 of 259

movi ng east war d wi t h t he happy ear t h you may easi l y

get f r om Muni ch t o St r asbur g i n one day ; but , i f you do,

you wi l l mi ss one of t he gr eat est t r eat s i n t he wor l d, and

t hat i s a r un t hr ough t he Tyr ol , whi ch you may do

f r om Muni ch wi t h comf or t i n a week. Ther e i s a l i t t l e

r ai l whi ch r uns you down sout h or so t o Hombur g, on

t he edge of t he mount ai n count r y, f r om whence you may

choose your conveyance, f r om post car r i age down t o

Shanks' nag. I f you f ol l ow my advi ce, what ever el se you

1 6 Vacat i on Rambl es

do you wi l l t ake car e t o see t he Fi nst er munz Pass, t han

whi ch not hi ng i n t he whol e wor l d can be mor e beaut i f ul .

I r at her wonder mysel f t hat t he Tyr ol has not dr awn

mor e of our hol i day f ol k, Al pi ne Cl ub and al l , f r om

Swi t zer l and. The Or t el er Spi t z and t he gl aci er s of hi s

r ange ar e as f i ne, and I shoul d t hi nk as danger ous, as any -

t hi ng i n t he Swi ss Al ps — t he l ower Al ps i n t he Tyr ol ar e

qui t e equal t o t hei r west er n si st er s ; and t her e i s a sof t

I t al i an char m and r i chness about t he l ook and cl i mat e of

t he sout her n val l eys, t hat about Bot zen especi al l y, whi ch

Swi t zer l and has not hi ng t o mat ch. The l uxur i ance of t he

mai ze cr ops ( t he common cor n of t he count r y) and of t he

vi nes t r ai ned over t r el l i s wor k i n t he I t al i an f ashi on, and

of t he gr eat gour ds and veget abl e mar r ows whi ch r ol l

t hei r gl or i ous l eaves and f l ower s and heavy f r ui t over

t he spar e cor ner s and sl i ps of t he pl at f or ms on whi ch t he

vi neyar ds r est — t he i nnumer abl e f r ui t - t r ees, pear s, appl es,

pl ums, peaches, and pomegr anat es al l set i n a f r amewor k

of beaut i f ul wooded mount ai ns, f r om whi ch t he cour se of

t he st r eams may be t r aced down t hr ough al l t he r i chness

of t he val l ey by t hei r t or r ent beds of t umbl ed r ock —

r emi nd us vi vi dl y of t he descr i pt i ons of t he Pr omi sed

Land i n t he Ol d Test ament . Then t he cont r ast of t he

peopl e t o t he Bavar i ans i s as gr eat as t hat of t he count r i es.

The l at t er seem t o l i ve t he easi est , l azi est l i f e of al l nat i ons,

i n t hei r r i ch l ow f l at s, whi ch t he women ar e qui t e abl e t o

cul t i vat e, whi l e t he men dr i nk beer and ot her wi se di spor t

t hemsel ves. But i n t he par t of t he Tyr ol next Bavar i a i t

i s al l gr i m ear nest : " Er nst i s das Leben " must be t hei r

mot t o i f t hey ar e t o get i n t hei r cr ops at al l , and keep

t hei r l i t t l e pat ches of val l ey and hangi ng f i el ds cul t i vat ed

— and i t does seem t o be t hei r mot t o. Af t er passi ng

t hr ough t he count r y one can qui t e under st and how t he

peasant r y came t o beat t he r egul ar t r oops of Fr ance and

Bavar i a t i me af t er t i me hal f a cent ur y ago, and t he

memoi r s of t hat hol y war hang al most about ever y r ock.

Ther e i s no mi st ake her e about bat t l e- f i el ds, and no

di f f i cul t y i n r eal i si ng t he scene : t he mar ch of col umns

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 7

al ong t he gor ges, t he pi l es of r ock and t r ee above, wi t h

Tyr ol ean mar ksmen behi nd, t he voi ces cal l i ng acr oss over

t he heads of t he i nvader s " Shal l we begi n 1 " " I n t he

name of t he Hol y Tr i ni t y, cut al l l oose" ; and t hen t he

cr ash and conf usi on, t he pani c and despai r , and t he swoop

of t he mount ai neer s on t he r emnant of t hei r f oes. A

gr eat par t of t he count r y must be exceedi ngl y poor , and

Page 22 of 259

yet oi dy i n t he nei ghbour hood of t wo or t hr ee vi l l ages

wer e we asked f or al ms, and t hen onl y by smal l chi l dr en,

who had appar ent l y been demor al i sed by t he passage of

car r i ages. Except f r om one of t hese chi l dr en, a smal l

boy who f l i r t ed hi s cap i n my f ace, and made a vi l l ai nous

gr i mace, when he got t i r ed of r unni ng, and f r om t he dogs,

we had no uncour t eous l ook or wor d. The dogs, however ,

ar e abomi nabl e mongr el s, and t her e was scar cel y one i n

t he count r y whi ch di d not r un bar ki ng and snappi ng af t er

us. The peopl e seem t o me ver y much pl easant er t o

t r avel amongst t han t he Swi ss.

I had expect ed t o f i nd t hem a peopl e much gi ven t o

t he out war d f or ms and cer emoni es of r el i gi on at any r at e

— ever y gui de- book t el l s one t hus much ; but I was not

at al l pr epar ed f or t he ext r aor di nar y hol d whi ch t hei r

Chr i st i ani t y had l ai d upon t he whol e ext er nal l i f e of t he

count r y. You can' t t r avel a mi l e i n t he Tyr ol al ong any

r oad wi t hout comi ng upon a shr i ne — i n gener al by t he

waysi de, of t en i n t he mi ddl e of t he f i el ds. I exami ned

sever al hundr eds of t hese ; many of t hem l i t t l e r ough

pent houses of pl ank, some wel l - bui l t t i ny chapel s. I wi sh

I had kept an exact account of t he cont ent s, but I am

qui t e sur e I am wi t hi n t he mar k i n sayi ng t hat ni ne out

of t en cont ai n si mpl y a cr uci f i x ; of t he r est , t he gr eat

maj or i t y cont ai n f i gur es or pai nt i ngs of t he Vi r gi n or

Chi l d, and a f ew t hose of some pat r on sai nt . Al l bor e

mar ks of wat chf ul car e ; i n many, gar l ands of f l ower s or

ber r i es, or an ear or t wo of r i pe mai ze, wer e hung r ound

t he Fi gur e on t he cr oss. Then i n ever y vi l l age i n whi ch

we sl ept , bel l s began r i ngi ng f or mat i ns at f i ve or si x, and

i n ever y case t he congr egat i on seemed t o be ver y l ar ge i n

C

i 8 Vacat i on Rambl es

pr opor t i on t o t he popul at i on. I was t ol d, and bel i eve,

t hat i n al l t he houses, even i n t he i nns of most of t hese

vi l l ages, t her e i s f ami l y wor shi p ever y eveni ng at a speci f i ed

hour , gener al l y at seven. We met peasant s wal ki ng al ong

t he r oad bar e- headed, and chant i ng mass. I came sud-

denl y upon par i sh pr i est s and poor women pr ayi ng bef or e

t he cr uci f i x by t he waysi de. The ost l er s and st abl e- men

have t he same habi t as our own, of past i ng or nai l i ng up

r ude pr i nt s on t he st abl e- door s, and of al l t hose whi ch I

exami ned whi l e we wer e changi ng hor ses, or wher e we

st opped f or f ood or r est , t her e was onl y one whi ch was

not on a sacr ed subj ect . I n shor t , t o an Engl i shman

accust omed t o t he r eser ve of hi s own count r y on such

subj ect s, t he cont r ast i s ver y st ar t l i ng. I f a Hi ndoo or

any ot her i nt el l i gent heat hen wer e dr opped down i n any

Engl i sh count r y, he mi ght t r avel f or days wi t hout know-

i ng whet her we have any r el i gi on at al l ; but , most

assur edl y, he coul d not do so i n t he Tyr ol . Now whi ch

i s t he best st at e of t hi ngs 1 I bel i eve Her Maj est y has no

st auncher Pr ot est ant t han I amongst her subj ect s, but I

own t hat a week i n t he Tyr ol has made me r econsi der a

t hi ng or t wo. Out war dl y, i n shor t , t he Tyr ol eans ar e t he

most r el i gi ous peopl e i n Eur ope. Of cour se I am no

Page 23 of 259

j udge af t er a week' s t our whet her t hei r f ai t h has gone as

deep as i t has spr ead wi de. You can onl y speak of t he

br i dge as i t car r i es you. Our bi l l s wer e t he most r eason-

abl e I have ever met wi t h, and I coul d not det ect a si ngl e

at t empt at i mposi t i on i n t he smal l est par t i cul ar . I went

i nt o t he f r ui t mar ket at Mer an, and, af t er buyi ng some

gr apes, went on t o an ol d woman who was sel l i ng f i gs.

She was whol l y unabl e t o under st and my speech, so, bei ng

i n a hur r y, I put a not e f or t he magni f i cent sum of t en

kr eut zer ( or 3d. st er l i ng) i nt o her hand, maki ng si gns t o her

t o put t he equi val ent i n f i gs i nt o a smal l basket I was

car r yi ng. Thi s she pr oceeded t o do, and when she had

pi l ed ei ght or t en f i gs on t he gr apes I t ur ned t o go, but

by vehement si gns she det ai ned me, t i l l she had gi ven me

t he f ul l t al e, some t hr ee or f our mor e. She was onl y a

Vacat i on Rambl es 19

f ai r speci men of what I f ound on al l si des. The poor ol d

soul had not mast er ed our l egal axi om of caveat empt or ,

but her t r adi ng mor al i t y had somet hi ng at t r act i ve about

i t . They may be educat ed i n t i me i nt o buyi ng cheap and

sel l i ng dear , but as yet t hat gr eat pr i nci pl e does not seem

t o have dawned on t hem.

Ther e may be some danger of super st i t i on i n t hi s

set t i ng up of cr uci f i xes and sacr ed pr i nt s by t he waysi de

and on st abl e- door s, but , on t he ot her hand, t he Fi gur e on

t he cr oss, meet i ng one at ever y cor ner , i s not unl i kel y, I

shoul d t hi nk, t o keep a poor man f r om t he commonest

vi ces t o whi ch he i s t empt ed i n hi s dai l y l i f e, i f i t does

no mor e. He woul d scar cel y l i ke t o st agger by i t dr unk

f r om t he near est pot - house. I f st abl e- boys ar e t o

have r ough woodcut s on t hei r door s, one of t he Cr uci -

f i xi on or of t he Mat er Dol or osa i s l i kel y t o do t hem

mor e good t han t he wi nner of t he Der by or Tom

Saver s.

But my l et t er i s get t i ng t oo l ong f or your col umns, so

I can onl y beg al l your r eader s t o sei ze t he f i r st chance of

vi si t i ng t he Tyr ol . I shal l be sur pr i sed i f t hey do not

come away wi t h much t he same i mpr essi ons as I have.

I t i s a t r i ad l and, above al l t hat I have ever seen — a l and

i n whi ch a psal m of j oy and t hankf ul ness seems t o be

r i si ng t o heaven f r om ever y mount ai n t op and val l ey, and,

mi ngl ed wi t h and beneat h i t , t he sol emn l ow not e of a

peopl e " br eat hi ng t hought f ul br eat h " — an accompani ment

wi t hout whi ch t her e i s no t r ue j oy possi bl e i n our wor l d,

wi t hout whi ch al l at t empt at i t r i ngs i n t he st ar t l ed ear

l i ke t he l augh of a madman. Those wor ds of t he ol d

mi ddl e - age hymn seemed t o be si ngi ng i n my ear s al l

t hr ough t he Tyr ol : —

Fac me ver e t ecum f l er e,

Cr uci Bxo condol er e,

Donee ego vi xer o.

I shal l never f i nd a count r y i n whi ch i t wi l l do one mor e

good t o t r avel .

Page 24 of 259

20 Vacat i on Rambl es

Vi enna, 10t h Sept ember 1862.

The st age Engl i shman i n f or ei gn count r i es must be

al ways an obj ect of i nt er est t o hi s count r ymen. He i s

a deci dedl y popul ar i nst i t ut i on i n Ger many, not t he l east

l i ke t he Dundr ear y t ype, or t he sor t of t op- boot ed hal f f ool ,

hal f mi scr eant , one sees at a mi nor t heat r e i n Par i s. The

l at est Engl i shmen on t he boar ds of t he summer t heat r es

her e ar e a Lor d Mi x- pi ckl , and hi s man Jack, but t he most

popul ar , and t hose whi ch appear t o be r egar ded i n f at her -

l and as t he r eal t hi ng, ar e t he Engl i shmen i n a pi ece cal l ed

" The Four Sai l or s. " I t opens wi t h a yawni ng chor us.

Four young Engl i shmen ar e di scover ed si t t i ng at a Ger man

wat er i ng- pl ace, r eadi ng copi es of t he Ti mes and Post , and

yawni ng f ear f ul l y. The chor us done, one says, " The

f unds ar e at 84. " " I bet you t hey ar e at 86, " says

anot her , and on t hi s poi nt t hey become l i vel y. I t appear s

by t he t al k whi ch ensues, t hat t hey have come abr oad

r esol ved on f i ndi ng some r omant i c advent ur e bef or e mar r y-

i ng, whi ch t hey ar e al l desi r ous of doi ng. Thi s t hey f ound

i mpossi bl e at home ; hi t her t o have not succeeded her e ;

have onl y succeeded i n t r ampl i ng on t he pol i ce ar r ange-

ment s, and get t i ng bor ed. They al l i mi t at e one anot her

i n speech and act i on, sayi ng " Yaas " i n successi on ver y

sl owl y, and al ways l ooki ng at one anot her del i ber at el y

bef or e act i ng. Now t he f our sai l or s appear , who ar e t hr ee

r omant i c young women and t hei r mai d, di sgui sed as

sai l or s, under t he car e of t hei r aunt , a st out easy - goi ng

ol d l ady, dr essed as a boat swai n, and of l ax habi t s i n t he

mat t er s of t obacco and dr i nk. Af t er hor npi pe danci ng

and ot her di ver si ons, t he young l adi es set t l e t o go and

bat he, and cr oss t he st age wher e t he Engl i shmen ar e

car r yi ng t hei r bat hi ng- dr esses. A cr y i s r ai sed t hat t hei r

boat i s upset ; wher eupon t he Engl i shmen l ook at one

anot her . At l ast one get s up, t akes of f hi s coat , f ol ds i t

up, and put s i t car ef ul l y on hi s chai r , di t t o wi t h wai st coat

and hat , t he ot her s doi ng t he same. They wal k of f i n I ndi an

f i l e, and r et ur n each wi t h a hal f - dr owned damsel acr oss hi s

shoul der s. Havi ng deposi t ed t hei r bur t hens, t hey r et ur n

Vacat i on Rambl es 21

t o t he f r ont of t he st age t o dr ess, when one suggest s t hat

t hey have never been i nt r oduced, upon whi ch, af t er a

pause, and l ooki ng sol emnl y at each ot her and t he

audi ence, t hey ej acul at e al l t oget her , " Got dam ! " They

t hen t ake r ef uge i n beer , si l ence, and pi pes. At l ast one

says, " Thi s i s cur i ous! " Thr ee yaas' , and a pause. Anot her ,

" Thi s i s an advent ur e ! " Thr ee yaas' , and a l onger pause.

At l ast , " Dat i st r omant i sch ! " pr opounds anot her . Tumul t -

uous yaas' br eak f or t h at t hi s di scover y. The obj ect of

t hei r j our ney i s accompl i shed, t hey mar r y t he f our sai l or s,

and r et ur n t o l ove and Br i t ai n.

The summer t heat r es ar e char mi ng i nst i t ut i ons, but

somewhat casual . For i nst ance, whi l e we wer e at I schl ,

t her e wer e no per f or mances because t he weat her was t oo

f i ne. I schl i t sel f i s wonder f ul l y at t r act i ve, and as he has

not t he chance of get t i ng a seasi de wat er i ng- pl ace, t he

Page 25 of 259

Kai ser Koni g has shown much t ast e i n t he sel ect i on of

I schl . The Tr aun and I schl , whi ch meet her e, ar e bot h

cel ebr at ed f or beaut y and t r out ( a young Engl i shman was

wadi ng about and havi ng capi t al spor t whi l e we wer e

t her e) . You get f i ne vi ews of gl aci er s f r om t he hi l l s

whi ch r i se on al l si des cl ose t o t he t own, and t he f i ve

val l eys at t he j unct i on of whi ch i t l i es ar e al l f i nel y

wooded and wel l wor t h expl or i ng. The t own i s f ur ni shed

wi t h a dr i nki ng- hal l ( but no gambl i ng) , bat hs, a casi no,

pr et t y pr omenades, and Her zogs and ot her gr and f ol k,

wi t h Hussar and ot her of f i cer s i n pl ent y t o enl i ven t hem.

You can dance ever y eveni ng al most i f you l i ke, and

gl oves ar e f abul ousl y good, and onl y a f l or i n a pai r f or

men, or wi t h t wo but t ons, f or l adi es, a f l or i n and t en

kr eut zer s ; so, havi ng r egar d t o t he number whi ch ar e

now f ound necessar y i n London, i t woul d al most pay

young per sons t o vi si t I schl once a year t o make t hei r

pur chases. Ther e i s al so a speci al t y i n t he way of pr et t y

ol d- f ashi oned l ooki ng j ewel l er y made and sol d her e cheap,

but t he Passau pear l s f ound i n t he gr eat cockl e- shel l s of

t hese par t s ar e dear , t hough cer t ai nl y ver y handsome. I

must not f or get t he r i f l e- r ange amongst t he at t r act i ons of

22 Vacat i on Rambl es

t he pl ace. I f el l i n wi t h t wo member s of t he I nns of

Cour t , and we hear d t he wel l - known cr ack, and soon

hunt ed out t he scene of oper at i ons. We f ound some

Aust r i an gent l emen pr act i si ng at 100 yar ds at a t ar get

wi t h a smal l bl ack cent r e, wi t hi n whi ch was a scar cel y

di st i ngui shabl e bul l ' s- eye. When a cent r e i s made t he

mar ker comes out , bows, waves hi s ar ms t wi ce, and ut t er s

t wo howl s cal l ed " yodel s. " When t he bul l ' s- eye i s st r uck

a shel l expl odes behi nd, t he Aust r i an eagl e spr i ngs up

above t he t ar get , and a Tyr ol ean, t he si ze of l i f e, f r om

each si de — whi ch per f or mance so f asci nat ed one of my

compani ons t hat he made i nt er est wi t h t he shoot er s, who

al l owed hi m t o use one of t hei r r i f l es. I r ej oi ce t o say

t hat he di d not di sgr ace t he di st i ngui shed cor ps t o whi ch

he bel ongs. At hi s f i r st shot he obt ai ned t he bow and

t wo howl s f r om t he mar ker , and at hi s f our t h t he

expl osi on and appear ances above descr i bed f ol l owed,

wher eupon he wi sel y r et i r ed on hi s l aur el s.

You pr oceed east war ds f r om I schl , down t he beaut i f ul

val l ey of t he Tr aun t o Eben ; see t he gr eat st or e- pl ace

f or t he sal t and wood of t he di st r i ct . The l ogs accompany

you, i n t he r i ver , al l t he way down ; and i t i s amusi ng t o

wat ch t hei r di f f er ent ways of f l oat i ng. Such of t hem as

ar e not st opped i n t r ansi t by t he hooks of t he i nhabi t ant s

ar e col l ect ed by a boom st r et ched acr oss t he head of t he

Gmi i nden Lake, on whi ch you t ake boat at Eben See.

The ski pper of t he st eamer i s an Engl i shman, who has

been t her e f or t hi r t y year s — a qui et mat t er - of - f act man,

who col l ect s hi s own t i cket s, wear s no uni f or m, and has a

pr of ound di sbel i ef i n t he accur acy of t he i nf or mat i on

f ur ni shed t o t our i st s i n t hese par t s by t he nat i ves. Long

absence f r om home has somewhat depr essed hi m, but he

l i ght s up f or a f ew moment s when he get s on hi s paddl e-

box and or der s t he st eam t o be put on t o char ge t he

boom. But t r avel l er s shoul d consul t hi m i f t hey want

cor r ect i nf or mat i on, and shoul d not t r ust i n " Br adshaw. "

Page 26 of 259

The l i on of t he nei ghbour hood i s t he Tr aun Fal l s ; and a

st at i on has been opened on t he r ai l way t o Li nt z t o

Vacat i on Rambl es 23

f aci l i t at e t he seei ng of t he f al l s, whi ch st at i on i s not even

ment i oned i n t he " Br adshaw " f or August 1862. Thi s

i s t oo bad.

I had consi der abl e oppor t uni t i es of seei ng t he st at e of

t he count r y i n Aust r i a. The peopl e ar e pr osper ous and

i ndependent t o a degr ee whi ch much ast oni shed me. They

ar e al most al l what we shoul d cal l yeomanr y, owni ng f r om

t went y t o t wo hundr ed acr es of l and. Even t he l abour er s,

who wor k f or t he gr eat pr opr i et or s, own t hei r own cot t ages

and an acr e or so of l and r ound ; i n f act , t he Teut oni c

passi on f or owni ng l and i s so st r ong t hat , unl ess a man

can acqui r e some, he manages t o emi gr at e. Si nce 1848

t he communes have st epped i nt o t he posi t i on of l or ds of

t he manor s, and own most of t he woods and t he game.

The gr eat pr opr i et or s pay t hem f or t he r i ght of spor t i ng

over t hei r own l ands. I n f act , what ever may be t he case

wi t h t he hi gher cl asses, t he peopl e her e seem t o have i t

much t hei r own way si nce 1848. We spent a Sunday af t er -

noon i n t he pal ace gar dens at Schonbr unn, i nt o whi ch

hal f t he popul ace of Vi enna, smoki ng vi l e- smel l i ng ci gar s,

seemed t o have pour ed i n omni buses and cabs, whi ch st ood

bef or e t he pal ace, and on f oot . We ( t he peopl e) occupi ed

t he whol e of t he gar dens, and a spl endi d mi l i t ar y band

pl ayed f or our behoof . You r each t he gar dens by passi ng

under t he pal ace, so t hat Ki ng Peopl e was ever ywher e,

and t he Kai ser Koni g, i f he want s r et i r ement , must st ay

i n hi s pr i vat e r ooms. A r epor t spr ead t hat t he Emper or

and Empr ess wer e comi ng out , wher eupon Ki ng Peopl e,

and we amongst t hem, swept i nt o t he l ower par t of t he

pal ace, and r i ght up t o a pr i vat e st ai r case, at t he f oot of

whi ch an open car r i age was st andi ng. A f ew bur l y and

wel l - behaved guar dsmen r emonst r at ed good- humour edl y,

but wi t h no ef f ect . Ther e we r emai ned i n bl ock, men,

women, and chi l dr en, t he pi pes and ci gar s wer e not

ext i ngui shed, and t he smel l was anyt hi ng but i mper i al .

Pr esent l y t he Emper or and Empr ess came down, and t l i e

car r i age passed at a f oot ' s pace t hr ough t he sal ut i ng and

pl eased cr owd. The Empr ess i s t he most char mi ng- l ook-

24 Vacat i on Rambl es

i ng r oyal per sonage I have ever seen, and seemed t o t hi nk

i t qui t e r i ght t hat t he peopl e shoul d occupy her house and

gr ounds. Fancy omni buses dr i vi ng i nt o t he Cour t - yar d

of Bucki ngham Pal ace, and John Bul l pr oceedi ng t o

occupy t he pr i vat e gar dens ! John hi msel f woul d deci dedl y

t hi nk t hat t he end of t he wor l d was come. The Con-

st i t ut i on, t oo, seems t o wor k wel l f r om al l I hear d. The

Cour t par t y has ceased al most t o st r uggl e f or power . I t

r evenges i t sel f , however , i n soci al l i f e. Soci et y ( so cal l ed)

i s mor e excl usi ve i n Vi enna t han anywher e el se, and

consi st s of some 400 or 500 per sons al l t ol d. Even t he

most di st i ngui shed sol di er s and st at esmen have not t he

er dr f e. Benedek' s f ami l y i s not i n soci et y, nor Schmer l i ng' s,

Page 27 of 259

t hough I hear hi s daught er i s one of t he pr et t i est and most

l adyl i ke gi r l s i n Aust r i a. Al l whi ch i s ver y si l l y, doubt -

l ess, but t he chi ef suf f er er s ar e t he 400 i nhabi t ant s who

dr i ve i n t he Pr at er , and go t o t he Lei cht enst ei n and

Schwar t zenbur g par t i es, and af t er al l , i f ar i st ocr aci es i n

t he f ool i sh sense ar e i nevi t abl e, an ar i st ocr acy of bi r t h i s

pr ef er abl e t o one of money, or , me j udi ce, of i nt el l ect ,

seei ng t hat t he l at t er gi ves i t sel f at l east as absur d ai r s,

and i s l i kel y t o be much mor e mi schi evous. On t he

ot her hand, my Hungar i an sympat hi es have been some-

what shaken si nce vi si t i ng t he count r y. I suppose t he

nat i onal dr ess has somet hi ng t o say t o i t . An Engl i shman

cannot swal l ow br ai ded coat s, and t i ght col our ed pant s,

and boot s al l at once, and t he car r i age and ai r s of t he men

ar e of f ensi ve. I say t hi s mor e on t he j udgment of sever al

of my count r y- women on t hi s poi nt t han on my own, but

f r om my own obser vat i on I can say t hat Pest h, t o a mer e

passer - by, has al l t he appear ances of t he most i mmor al

capi t al i n t he wor l d. I n t he best shops, i n t he best

st r eet s, t her e ar e phot ogr aphs and engr avi ngs exhi bi t ed

whi ch, wi t h us, woul d speedi l y cal l Lor d Campbel l ' s Act

i nt o oper at i on. And t he Hay mar ket i s i n many r espect s

mor al i n compar i son wi t h many par t s of Pest h. I t i s t he

onl y pl ace i n Eur ope wher e I have seen men goi ng about

dr unk bef or e mi dday. I n shor t , you wi l l per cei ve t hat

Vacat i on Rambl es 25

my i nspect i on i ncl i nes me t o suspect t hat t her e may be

mor e t han one has been wont t o bel i eve i n t he asser t i on,

t hat t he Const i t ut i on we hear so much of i s ar i st ocr at i c

and one whi ch wi l l gi ve back ol d f eudal pr i vi l eges t o a

conquer i ng r ace and enabl e t hem t o oppr ess Sl aves, Cr oat s,

et c. , as t hey di d bef or e 1848. Ther e i s, ever ybody ad-

mi t s, a l ar ge di scont ent ed cl ass i n Hungar y, composed

chi ef l y of t he poor nobi l i t y ( who have l ong ago spent t hei r

compensat i on money) , and pr of essi onal men, especi al l y

advocat es, but i t i s st r enuousl y mai nt ai ned t hat t he gr eat

mass of t he peopl e have been f ar bet t er of f ' i n al l ways

and mor e cont ent ed si nce 1849. I don' t pr et end t o gi ve

you anyt hi ng except t he most appar ent l y t r ut hf ul evi dence

I can pi ck up by t he waysi de, and t he obser vat i ons of my

own eyes, and cer t ai nl y t he l at t er have not been f avour abl e t o

Hungar y i n any way, t hough t hey l ook cer t ai nl y ver y l i ke

a f i ght i ng r ace, t hese Magyar s. The r ai l r oad f r om Pest h

t o Basi ash, wher e one embar ks on t he Danube, passes

t hr ough enor mous f l at s, heavy f or mi l es and mi l es wi t h

mai ze and ot her cr ops, and ver y t hi nl y peopl ed. I t

i s a const ant wonder wher e t he peopl e can come f r om t o

r eap and gar ner i t al l . The gr eat f aul t of t he count r y i s

t he dust , whi ch i s an abomi nabl e nui sance. Cer t ai nl y t he

f aci l i t i es f or t r avel l i ng ar e get t i ng t o be al l t hat can be

wi shed i n our t i me. A l i t t l e mor e t han f or t y- ei ght hour s

wi l l br i ng a man, who can st and ni ght j our neys, t o

Vi enna ; af t er r est i ng a ni ght , ei ght een hour s mor e wi l l

br i ng hi m t o Basi ash, wher e he wi l l at once pl unge i nt o

t he ol d wor l d of t ur bans and vei l ed women, mi nar et s and

mosques; man and beast and bi r d, houses and habi t s, . i l l

st r ange and new t o hi m ; and i f t he Danube f ar es wer e not .

at r oci ousl y hi gh, t her e ar e f ew t hi ngs I woul d mor e

Page 28 of 259

ear nest l y r ecommend t o my hol i day- maki ng count r ymen

t han - a t r i p down t hat nobl est of Eur opean r i ver s. Con-

si der i ng t he pr esent st at e of pol i t i cal mat t er s, t oo, i n t he

wor l d, he can har dl y sel ect a mor e i nt er est i ng count r y.

Cer t ai nl y t he East er n quest i on gai ns wonder f ul l y i n

i nt er est when one has seen ever so l i t t l e of t he l ands and

26 Vacat i on Rambl es

peopl e about whi ch t he wi sest heads of al l t he wi sest

st at esmen of our day ar e specul at i ng and schemi ng — not

ver y wi sel y, I f ear , at pr esent .

The Danube, 13^ Sept ember 1862.

The Rhi ne may, per haps, f ai r l y be compar ed wi t h t he

Upper Danube, bet ween Li nt z and Vi enna, even bet ween

Vi enna and Pest h. Ther e i s no gr eat di spar i t y so f ar ,

ei t her i n t he si ze of t hemsel ves or of t he hi l l s and pl ai ns

t hr ough whi ch t hey r un. The t r avel l er ' s t ast es, ar t i st i c

and hi st or i cal , deci de hi s pr ef er ence. The const ant

successi on of r ui ned hol ds of t he ol d oppr essor s of t he

ear t h whi ch he meet s on t he Rhi ne, ar e want i ng on t he

Danube. I t i s cer t ai nl y a sat i sf act i on t o see such pl aces

t hor oughl y r ui ned — t o t r i umph over depar t ed scoundr el i sm

wher ever one comes on i t s r el i cs. As a compensat i on,

however , he wi l l f i nd on t he Danube a huge bui l di ng or

t wo, such as t hat of t he Benedi ct i ne Monast er y at Mol k,

or t he Cat hedr al and Pal ace of t he Pr i mat e of Hungar y

at Gr an, of l i vi ng i nt er est , and wi t h wor k st i l l t o do i n

t he wor l d. Ther e i s not much t o choose bet ween t he

banks of t he t wo st r eams i n t he mat t er of gener al

hi st or i cal i nt er est , t hough t o me t he l ong st r uggl e bet ween

t he Chr i st i an and t he Mosl em, t he f oot pr i nt s of whi ch

meet one on al l si des, gi ves t he Danube sl i ght l y t he

advant age even i n t hi s r espect . Ther e ar e l onger gaps of

f l at uni nt er est i ng count r y on t he east er n st r eam, no

doubt , whi ch may be set of f agai nst t he sameness and

neat ness of t he per pet ual vi neyar d on t he west er n ; and

on t he Danube you get , now and t hen, a pi ece of r eal

f or est , whi ch you never see, so f ar as I r emember , on t he

Rhi ne.

Bel ow Bel gr ade, however , al l compar i son ceases. The

Rhi ne i s hal f t he si ze of i t s r i val , and f l ows west war d

t hr ough t he hi ghest cul t i vat i on and ci vi l i sat i on t o t he

Ger man Ocean, whi l e t he huge Danube r ushes t hr ough

t he Car pat hi ans i nt o a new wor l d — an east er n peopl e,

l i vi ng ami dst st r ange beast s and bi r ds, i n a count r y

Vacat i on Rambl es 2 J

whi ch i s pr et t y much as Tr aj an l ef t i t . You mi ght as

wel l compar e Ki l l i ecr anki e t o t he Br enner Pass, as any

t hi ng on t he Rhi ne t o t he Kazan, t he def i l e by whi ch t he

Danube st r uggl es t hr ough t he west er n Car pat hi ans.

Her e t he r i ver cont r act s i n br eadt h f r om mor e t han a

mi l e t o bet ween 200 and 300 yar ds; t he dept h i s 170

f eet . The l i mest one r ocks on bot h si des r i se t o near

Page 29 of 259

2000 f eet , comi ng sheer down t o t he wat er i n many

pl aces, cl ot hed wi t h f or est wher ever t her e i s hol d f or

r oot s. Al ong t he Ser vi an si de, on t he f ace of t he

pr eci pi ce, a f ew f eet above t he st r eam, r un t he l ong l i ne

of socket s i n whi ch t he beams wer e f ast ened f or t he

suppor t of hi s cover ed r oad by Tr aj an' s l egi ons. A

t abl et and an i nscr i pt i on 1740 year s ol d st i l l bear , I

bel i eve, t he gr eat Roman' s name, and a memor i al of hi s

Daci an campai gn, t hough I cannot vouch f or t he f act , as

we shot by i t at t went y mi l es an hour ; but I coul d

di st i nct l y see Roman l et t er s. On t he l ef t bank t he

Aust r i ans have car r i ed a r oad by bl ast i ng and masonr y ;

and a caver n whi ch was hel d f or weeks by 400 men

agai nst a Tur ki sh ar my i n 1692 commands t he whol e

pass.

We had scar cel y ent er ed t he def i l e when some ei ght

or t en eagl es appear ed sweepi ng sl owl y r ound over a spot

i n t he hangi ng wood, wher e pr obabl y a deer or goat was

dyi ng. I count ed upwar ds of t hi r t y bef or e we l ef t t he

Kazan ; sever al wer e so near t he boat t hat you coul d

pl ai nl y mar k t he gl ossy bar r ed pl umage, and ever y t ur n

of t he body and t ai l as t hey st eer ed about upon t hose

mar vel l ous, mot i onl ess wi ngs. One swooped t o t he wat er

al most wi t hi n shot , but mi ssed t he f i sh, or what ever hi s

i nt ended pr ey mi ght be. A wat er ouzel or t wo wer e t he

onl y ot her l i vi ng cr eat ur es whi ch appear ed t o dr aw our

at t ent i on f or a moment f r om t he sway of t he mi ght y

st r eam and t he successi on of t he di zzy hei ght s. Bel ow

t he pass t he st r eam wi dens agai n. You l ose somet hi ng

of t he f eel i ng of power i n t he mass of wat er bel ow yon,

t hough t he super f i ci al exci t ement of whi r l , and r ush, and

28 Vacat i on Rambl es

eddy, i s much i ncr eased. Her e, at Or sova, a smal l

mi l i t ar y t own on t he f r ont i er l i ne bet ween Hungar y and

Wal l achi a, we t ur ned out i nt o a f l at - bot t omed st eamer ,

wi t h f our t i ny paddl e- wheel s, dr awi ng onl y some t hr ee

f eet of wat er , whi ch was t o car r y us over t he I r on Gat es,

as t he r api ds ar e cal l ed ; and beaut i f ul l y t he l i t t l e duck

f ul f i l l ed her t ask. The Engl i sh on boar d, t hr ee l adi es

and f i ve men, had al r eady f r at er ni sed; we occupi ed t he

pl aces i n t he bows. The deck was scar cel y a yar d above

wat er , and t her e wer e no bul war ks, onl y a st r ong r ai l t o

l ean agai nst . The r ush of t he st r eam her e beat any mi l l -

r ace I have ever seen, and t he l i t t l e st eamer bounded

al ong over t he l eapi ng, boi l i ng wat er at t he r at e of a f ast

t r ai n. Twi ce onl y she pl unged a l i t t l e, shi ppi ng j ust

enough wat er t o cause some di scomposur e amongst t he

l adi es' dr esses, and t o wet our f eet . We shot past t he

wr eck of a Tur ki sh i r on st eamer i n t he wi l dest par t ,

whi ch had gr ounded on i t s way up t o Bel gr ade wi t h

muni t i ons of war . The Ser vi ans had boar ded and bur nt

her , and t her e she l ay, and wi l l l i e, t i l l t he r ace washes

her t o pi eces, f or t her e i s not hi ng t o be got out of her

now except t he i r on of her hul l . Bel ow t he I r on Gat e, a

f i ne Aust r i an st eamer r ecei ved us, and we moved st at el i l y

out i nt o t he st r eam on our r emai ni ng t hi r t y hour s' voyage.

We had l ef t t he mount ai ns, but wer e st i l l amongst

Page 30 of 259

r espect abl e hi l l s cover ed wi t h f or est , f ul l of game, an

engi neer of f i cer who was on boar d t ol d us, and pl ent y

of wol ves t o be had i n t he wi nt er — t oo many, i ndeed,

occasi onal l y. A f r i end of hi s had knocked up a l i t t l e

wooden shoot i ng- box i n t hese Wal l achi an f or est s — a r ough

af f ai r , wi t h a l i vi ng- r oom bel ow, a bedr oom above. He

had f ound t he wol ves so shy t hat he scar cel y bel i eved i n

t hem ; however , t o gi ve t he mat t er a f ai r t r i al , he asked

t hr ee or f our f r i ends t o hi s box, bought a dead hor se, and

r oast ed hi m out si de. The speedy consequence was such

a cr owd of wol ves t hat he and hi s f r i ends had t o t ake

r ef uge i n t he bedr oom and f i ght f or t hei r l i ves ; as i t

was, t he wol ves wer e ver y near st ar vi ng t hem out . And

Vacat i on Rambl es 29

now t he r i ver had wi dened agai n, and wat er - f owl coul d

r est and f eed on t he sur f ace.

The hot eveni ng, f or hot enough i t was, t hough cool

i n compar i son of t he day, br ought t hem out i n f l ocks

r ound t he i sl ands and over t he shal l ows. I was j ust

f east i ng my eyes wi t h t he si ght of wi l d swans, qui t e at

t hei r ease i n our nei ghbour hood, when t hr ee huge whi t e

bi r ds came sai l i ng past wi t h a f l i ght al most as st eady as

t he eagl es we had seen i n t he Kazan. " What ar e

t hey 1 ?" I sai d eager l y t o my compani on, t he engi neer .

" Pel i cans, " he answer ed, as cool l y as i f t hey had been

wat er - hens. I n anot her moment t hey l i ght ed on t he

wat er , and I saw t hei r l ong bi l l s and pouches. Fancy

t he new sensat i on, si r ! But on t hi s par t of t he Danube

t her e i s no want of new sensat i ons. Our f i r st st op at a

Bul gar i an vi l l age — or t own, per haps, I shoul d cal l i t , f or

i t boast ed a t umbl e- down f or t , wi t h some r ude ear t h-

wor ks, and hal f a dozen mi nar et s shot up f r om amongst

i t s houses and vi neyar ds — may be r eckoned amongst t he

chi ef of t hese. What can be mor e ut t er l y new t o an

Engl i shman t han t o come upon a cr owd of poor men, who

have t hei r dai l y br ead t o ear n, hal f of whom ar e qui et l y

asl eep, and t he r est squat t i ng or st andi ng about , wi t hout

of f er i ng, or t hi nki ng of of f er i ng, t o hel p when t her e i s

wor k t o be done under t hei r noses 1 One was pai nf ul l y

r emi nded of t he eager , t i mi d anxi et y t o be al l owed t o

car r y l uggage f or a penny or t wo whi ch one meet s wi t h

at home. Her e one had cl ear l y got i nt o t he bl i ssf ul

r eal ms wher e t i me i s absol ut el y of no account , and i f you

want a t hi ng done, you can do i t your sel f . Our ar r i val

was evi dent l y an event l ooked f or war d t o i n some sor t ,

f or t her e wer e goods on t he whar f wai t i ng f or us, and

sever al of t he nat i ves had managed t o br i ng down gr eat

basket s f ul l of gr apes, by whi ch t hey had seat ed t hem-

sel ves. We wer e al l consumed wi t h desi r e f or gr apes,

and headed by t he st ewar d of t he vessel , who suppl i es

hi s t abl e her e, r ushed ashor e and f el l upon t he basket s.

I t seemed t o be a mat t er of per f ect i i i di U' er ence t o t he

30 Vacat i on Rambl es

Page 31 of 259

owner s whet her we t ook t hem or l et t hem al one, or how

many we t ook, or whet her we pai d or not . The

onl y di st i nct i dea t hey had, was t hat t hey woul d not

t ake Aust r i an money. Our Engl i sh emi ssar y r et ur ned

wi t h si x or seven huge bunches f or whi ch he had gi ven

pr omi se t o pay t wo pi ast r es t o somebody. The pi ast r e

was t hen ( t en days ago) wor t h one penny, i t i s now

wor t h t wopence — a st r ange count r y i s Tur key. Ther e

wer e some buf f al oes l yi ng i n t he wat er , wi t h t hei r gr eat

ear s f l oppi ng, t o move t he ai r a l i t t l e, and keep of f f l i es.

A hal f - gr own Tur ki sh l ad was squat t ed near t he head of

one of t hem, over whi ch he was scoopi ng up t he wat er

wi t h hi s hands, t he onl y human bei ng i n vol unt ar y

act i vi t y. Hi s wor k was t hor oughl y appr eci at ed ; I never

saw a mor e per f ect pi ct ur e of enj oyment t han t he buf f al o

who was get t i ng t hi s shower - bat h. The cost umes, of

cour se, ar e cur i ous and st r i ki ng t o a st r anger , but

t ur bans and f ezzes, camel ' s hai r j acket s, and l oose cot t on

dr awer s, — even t he absence of t hese i n many i nst ances,

and t he subst i t ut e of copper - col our ed f l esh as a common

gar b of t he count r y — ar e af t er al l onl y super f i ci al

di f f er ences. I t i s t he qui et i mmobi l i t y of t he men whi ch

makes one f eel at once t hat t hey ar e a di f f er ent r ace, and

t he compl et e absence of women i n t he cr owds. The

cot t ages, i n gener al , l ook l i ke gr eat mol e- hi l l s. They

l ook mi ser abl e enough, but I bel i eve ar e wel l sui t ed t o

t he cl i mat e, bei ng sunk t hr ee or f our f eet i n t he gr ound,

whi ch keeps t hem cool i n summer and war m i n wi nt er .

Our Cr i mean exper i ence bear s t hi s out . The mud hut s

sunk i n t he gr ound and t hat ched r oughl y wer e f ar mor e

comf or t abl e al l weat her s t han t hose sent out f r om

Engl and. The campai gn bet ween t he Russi ans and

Tur ks at t he begi nni ng of t he l at e war became much

cl ear er t o me as we passed down t he r i ver . I t must be

a ver y di f f i cul t oper at i on t o i nvade Bul gar i a f r om t he

Pr i nci pal i t i es, f or t he sout her n bank commands t he dead

Hat of t he Wal l achi an banks al most al l t he way down.

The ser i ous check whi ch t he Russi ans got at Ol t eni t za

Vacat i on Rambl es 31

was a gr eat puzzl e i n Engl and. We coul d not make out

how i t happened. Omar Pasha seemed t o have made a

monst r ous bl under i n t hr owi ng a si ngl e di vi si on acr oss

t he r i ver , and we wonder ed at hi s l uck i n get t i ng so wel l

out of i t . The f act i s t hat i t was a r eal st r oke of

gener al shi p. The Russi an cor ps wer e about t o cr oss at

poi nt s above and bel ow. Omar ' s cannon post ed on t he

Bul gar i an hei ght s compl et el y commanded t he opposi t e

pl ai n, wher e a consi der abl e st r eam r uns i nt o t he Danube.

Thi s st r eam pr ot ect ed t he l ef t f l ank of t he di vi si on whi ch

cr ossed, and t hey t hr ew up ear t h- wor ks al ong t hei r f r ont

and r i ght . The Russi ans r ecal l ed t he cor ps whi ch wer e

about t o cr oss, t hi nki ng t o anni hi l at e t hem, and at t acked

under a pl ungi ng f i r e f r om t he Tur ki sh ar t i l l er y on t he

opposi t e bank, whi ch, combi ned wi t h t hat f r om t he

ear t h- wor ks, was unendur abl e, and t hey wer e r epul sed

wi t h enor mous l oss. I t i s by no means so easy, however ,

t o under st and why t hey di d not t ake Si l i st r i a. Her e

t hey had cr ossed, wer e i n gr eat f or ce, and had no st r ong

posi t i on t o at t ack. The f amous wor k of Ar ab Tabi a, t he

key of t he posi t i on whi ch was so gal l ant l y hel d by But l er

Page 32 of 259

and Nasmyt h wi t h a f ew hundr ed Tur ki sh sol di er s under

t hem, i s not hi ng but a l ow mound, whi ch you can

scar cel y make out f r om t he st eamer . Why t hey shoul d

not have mar ched r i ght over i t and i nt o t he t own i s a

myst er y.

The vi l l age of Tcher navoda wher e t he st eamer l ands

passenger s f or Const ant i nopl e, consi st s of a ver y poor i nn,

some gr eat war ehouses f or cor n, and some hal f - dozen

Tur ki sh cot t ages. An Engl i sh company has made t he

r ai l r oad acr oss t o Kust andj i e, on t he Bl ack Sea, so t hat

you escape t he l ong r ound by t he mout hs of t he Danube.

I f ear i t must be a ver y poor specul at i on, but i t i s ver y

conveni ent . The l i ne r uns t hr ough a chai n of l akes, by

whi ch i t i s of t en f l ooded. Once l ast wi nt er t he wat er

came near l y i nt o t he car r i ages. The t r ai n was, of cour se,

st opped, and had t o r emai n i n t he wat er , whi ch f r oze har d

i n t he ni ght . I bel i eve t he passenger s had t o pr oceed

32 Vacat i on Rambl es

over t he i ce. I f any young Engl i shman who combi nes

t he t ast es of a spor t sman and nat ur al i st want s a f i el d f or

hi s ener gi es, I can' t f ancy a bet t er one t han t hese l akes.

The bi r ds swar m ; ever y sor t of duck and sea- bi r d one

had ever hear d of , besi des pel i cans, wi l d swans, bi t t er ns,

( t he f i r st I ever saw out of a museum) and her ons, and

I know not what ot her f owl wer e t her e, especi al l y a

beaut i f ul whi t e bi r d exact l y l i ke our her on, but snowy

whi t e. I saw t wo of t hese. I don' t bel i eve t hey wer e

st or ks, at l east not t he common ki nd whi ch I have seen.

We had been j our neyi ng past t he scene of t he l at e

conf er ences, and of t he exci t ement whi ch was so near l y

br eaki ng out i nt o war a mont h or t wo back, and had

pl ent y of Ser vi ans and ot her i nt er est ed per sons on

boar d ; but , so f ar as I coul d l ear n, ever yt hi ng i s qui et i ng

down i nt o i t s or di nar y st at e — an unsat i sf act or y one, no

doubt , but not unl i kel y t o dr ag on f or some t i me yet .

Shoul d t he Ser vi ans and ot her di scont ent ed nat i onal i t i es,

however , br eak out and come t o be i n need of a ki ng,

or ot her per son of t hat ki nd, j ust now, t hey may have t he

chance of get t i ng t wo count r ymen of our s t o f i l l such

post s. We l ef t t hem pr epar i ng t o i nvade Ser vi a on a

shoot i ng and expl or i ng expedi t i on, ar med wi t h admi r abl e

guns, r evol ver s, and a powder f or t he anni hi l at i on of

i nsect s. They wer e qui t e awar e of t he pr esent unset t l ed

st at e of af f ai r s, and pr epar ed t o avai l t hemsel ves of any -

t hi ng good whi ch mi ght t ur n up on t hei r t r avel s.

Const ant i nopl e, 24

can manage t he machi ne, and t he Engl i shman i nsi st s on

bei ng dr unk hal f hi s t i me.

We l ef t by one of t he st eamer s whi ch pl y dai l y f r om

Caen t o Havr e. The r un down t he r i ver i s chi ef l y i n-

t er est i ng f r om t he quar r i es on i t s banks. They ar e not

t he pr i nci pal quar r i es, but ar e of ver y consi der abl e ext ent ;

and f r om t he quant i t i es of t i p, heaped i nt o moder at e- si zed

Page 33 of 259

gr ass- cover ed hi l l s by t he r i ver si de, i t i s pl ai n t hat t hey

must have been i n wor k her e f or cent ur i es. You see t he

st one i n many pl aces l yi ng l i ke r i ch Cheddar cheese, and

cut as r egul ar l y i n f l akes as a gr ocer woul d cut hi s

f avour i t e cheeses. The st one i s ver y sof t when i t comes

f i r st f r om t he quar r i es, but gai ns i t s gr eat har dness and

shar pness af t er a shor t exposur e. Af t er passi ng t he

quar r i es we got bet ween sal t mar shes haunt ed by abund-

ance of j ack sni pe, and so we passed out t o sea.

Gl eani ngs f r om Boul ogne

Ther e i s one l ar ge por t i on of t he Fr ench peopl e whi ch

has i mpr oved mar vel l ousl y i n appear ance i n t he l ast f ew

year s, and t hat i s t he ar my. The set t i ng up of t he Fr ench

sol di er of t he l i ne used t o be much negl ect ed, but now

you never see a man, however smal l and sl i ght , who does

not car r y hi msel f and move as i f ever y muscl e i n hi s body

had been t hor oughl y and sci ent i f i cal l y t r ai ned. And t hi s

i s t he act ual f act . They have t he f i nest syst em of mi l i t ar y

gymnast i cs whi ch has ever been seen. I n ever y gar r i son

t own t her e i s a gymnasi um, i n whi ch t he men have t o dr i l l

as r egul ar l y as on t he par ade- gr ound. The one cl ose t o

t he gat e of t he ol d t own of Boul ogne i s an admi r abl e

speci men, and wel l wor t h a vi si t . Our aut hor i t i es ar e,

I bel i eve, sl owl y f ol l owi ng i n t he st eps of t he Fr ench, but

l i t t l e has as yet been done. Ther e i s no br anch of ar my

r ef or m whi ch may mor e saf el y be pr essed on. We have

undoubt edl y t he f i ner mat er i al . The Engl i sh sol di er i s

a bi gger and mor e muscul ar man t han t he Fr ench sol di er ,

84 Vacat i on Rambl es

but i s f ar behi nd hi m i n hi s physi cal educat i on, and must

r emai n so unt i l we pr ovi de a pr oper syst em of gymnast i c

t r ai ni ng, whi ch, by t he bye, wi l l benef i t t he gener al heal t h

of t he men, and devel op t hei r i nt el l i gence as wel l as

t hei r muscl es.

Dur i ng our st ay at Boul ogne t her e was some ver y

heavy weat her . A st r ong sou ' - west er came on one ni ght ,

and by t wo o' cl ock next day, when I went down, was

hur l i ng t he angr y gr een waves agai nst t he gr eat beams

of t he sout her n pi er i n f ear f ul f ashi on. The ent r ance t o

t he har bour , as most of your r eader s wi l l r emember , i s

qui t e nar r ow, not one hundr ed yar ds acr oss bet ween t he

t wo pi er heads. The ebb- t i de was sweepi ng down f r om

t he nor t h, and, meet i ng t he gal e r i ght of f ' t he har bour ' s

mout h, made a bat t l i ng and r agi ng sea whi ch br ought

one' s hear t i nt o one' s mout h t o l ook at . The weat her

was qui t e br i ght , and t hough t he wi nd was so st r ong t hat

I hel d my hat on wi t h di f f i cul t y, t he nor t her n pi er was

cr owded, as t he whol e f or ce of t he sea was spent agai nst

t he sout her n pi er , over whi ch i t was l eapi ng ever y moment .

We wer e i n compar at i ve shel t er , and coul d wat ch, wi t hout

bei ng dr enched wi t h spr ay, t he appr oach of one of t he

f i shi ng smacks of t he por t , whi ch was comi ng home. I

shal l not easi l y f or get t he si ght . We st ood t her e, j ammed

t oget her , r ough sai l or s, f i shwomen, Cockneys, weat her -

bound sol di er s, wel l - dr essed l adi es, a cr owd of al l r anks,

Page 34 of 259

t he wi nd si ngi ng t hr ough us so t hat we coul d scar cel y

make our near est nei ghbour s hear . Not t hat we want ed

t o t al k. The si ght of t he smal l bl ack hul l and r uddy

br own sai l of t he smack, now r i si ng on t he cr est of a

gr eat wave, and t he next moment al l but di sappear i ng

behi nd i t , t ook away t he desi r e, al most t he power , of

speech. Two boat s, manned wi t h f i sher men, pul l ed t o

t he har bour ' s mout h, and l ay r ol l i ng i n t he compar at i vel y

st i l l wat er j ust wi t hi n t he shel t er of t he sout her n pi er

head. I t was comf or t i ng t o see t hem t her e, t hough i f

any cat ast r ophe had happened t hey coul d never have

l i ved i n t hat sea. But t he gal l ant l i t t l e smack needed

Vacat i on Rambl es 85

no hel p. She was magni f i cent l y st eer ed, and came danc -

i ng t hr ough t he wi l dest par t of t he r ace wi t hout shi ppi ng

a si ngl e sea, seemi ng t o cat ch each l eapi ng wave j ust i n t he

spot wher e i t was easi est t o r i de over . As she sl i d out

of t he seet hi ng caul dr on i nt o t he smoot h wat er past t he

wai t i ng boat s t he cr owd dr ew a l ong br eat h, and many of

us hur r i ed back t o get a cl ose vi ew of her as she r an i nt o

her pl ace amongst t he ot her f i shi ng boat s al ongsi de t he

quay. I envi ed t he gr i zzl y ol d her o at t he hel m, as he

l ef t hi s pl ace, t hr ew of f hi s dr eadnought coat , and went

t o hel p t he t wo men and t wo boys who wer e t aki ng i n

t he sai l and coi l i ng away t he r opes. Ther e was much

shout i ng and congr at ul at i on f r om above ; but t hey made

l i t t l e answer , and no f uss. Thei r f aces st r uck me ver y

much, especi al l y t he boys' , whi ch wer e f ul l of t hat qui et

sel f - cont ai ned l ook one sees i n Hook' s pi ct ur es. Ther e

was no ot her boat i n t he of f i ng t hen, so I went home ;

but wi t hi n a f ew hour s hear d t hat a smack had capsi zed

i n t he har bour ' s mout h, wi t h t he l oss of one man. I onl y

mar vel how t he r est coul d have been saved.

On t he 1st of Oct ober i n ever y year t her e i s a sol emn

f est i val of t he seaf ar i ng peopl e of Boul ogne, and t he sea

i s bl essed by t hei r past or s. I was anxi ous t o wai t f or

t he cer emony, but was unabl e t o do so. Ther e seems t o

be a st r ange mi xt ur e of t r ust i n God and super st i t i on i n

al l peopl e who " occupy t hei r busi ness on t he gr eat wat er s. "

Ther e i s a l i t t l e chapel l ooki ng down on Boul ogne por t

f ul l of t hank- of f er i ngs of t he sai l or s' wi ves, wher e t he

f i shwomen go up t o pl ead wi t h God, and pour out t he

agony of t hei r soul s i n r ough weat her . Ther e ar e pr o-

pi t i at or y gi f t s, t oo, by t he si de of t he t hank - of f er i ngs,

and t he shadow of a t yr annous power i n nat ur e, t o be

bought of f wi t h gi f t s, dar kens t he pr esence of t he t r ue

Ref uge f r om t he st or m. Ther e ar e t r aces, t oo, of a mor e

di r ect i dol at r y i n t he t own. I n t he year 643 of our er a

t he Madonna came t o Boul ogne i n an open boat , so r uns

t he st or y, and l ef t an i mage wi t h t he f ai t hf ul , whi ch soon

became t he gr eat r el i gi ous l i on of t he nei ghbour hood,

86 Vacat i on Rambl es

dr awi ng l ar gel y, and per f or mi ng a ser i es of mi r acl es al l

t hr ough t he Mi ddl e Ages. When Henr y VI I I . t ook t he

t own t he Engl i sh car r i ed of t ' t he i mage, but i t was r est or ed

Page 35 of 259

i n good condi t i on when peace came, and as power f ul as

ever f or wonder - wor ki ng. The Huguenot s got hol d of i t

hal f a cent ur y l at er , and wer e supposed t o have dest r oyed

i t ; but an i mage, whi ch at any r at e di d dut y f or i t , was

ul t i mat el y f i shed up out of a wel l . Doubt s as t o i dent i t y,

however , havi ng ar i sen, t he mat t er was r ef er r ed t o t he

Sor bonne, and a j ur y of doct or s decl ar ed i n f avour of t he

genui neness of t he ar t i cl e whi ch was f or t hcomi ng. And

so i t cont i nued t o pr act i se wi t h var yi ng success unt i l t he

Eevol ut i on, when t he Jacobi ns l ai d hands on i t , br oke i t up,

and bur nt i t , t hi nki ng t o make once f or al l an end of t hi s

and ot her i dol - wor shi ps. But a ci t i zen not so enl i ght ened

as hi s nei ghbour s st ayed by t he f i r e, and succeeded at

l ast i n r escui ng what he decl ar ed t o be an ar m of t he

or i gi nal i mage, whi ch r emai ns an obj ect of vener at i on st i l l ,

and i s sai d not t o have l ost al l heal i ng power . But i t i s

f ar i nf er i or i n t hi s r espect t o some dr ops of t he hol y bl ood,

f or t he r ecept i on of whi ch a count r ywoman of out ' s has

bui l t a l i t t l e chapel i n t he subur bs.

Boul ogne has al l t he mar ks of r api dl y i ncr easi ng mat er i al

pr osper i t y whi ch may be seen now i n ever y Fr ench t own,

one of t he many f r ui t s of whi ch i s a wonder f ul i mpr ove-

ment i n t he condi t i on of t he st r eet s and t hor oughf ar es.

The f i ne new bui l di ngs, t he l ook of t he shops and of t he

peopl e, al l t el l t he same t al e. I n f act , one comes away

f r om Fr ance now wi t h a f eel i ng t hat , so f ar as sur f ace

pol i sh and ci vi l i sat i on ar e concer ned, t hi s i s t he count r y

whi ch i s goi ng t o t he f r ont . Whet her i t goes any deeper

i s a mat t er upon whi ch a t r avel l er f l i t t i ng about f or a f ew

weeks cannot vent ur e an opi ni on.

I came back i n one of t he dai l y packet s t o London

Br i dge, whi ch, besi des car r yi ng sevent y passenger s, was

pi l ed f or e and af t wi t h car go. Ther e wer e 400 cases of

wi ne on deck, besi des ot her packages, whi ch sor el y cur t ai l ed

our wal ki ng pr i vi l eges. But t he boat s ar e good boat s,

Vacat i on Rambl es 87

and t he voyage past Dover , t hr ough t he Downs, r ound

t he Nor t h For el and, and up t he Thames, i s so f ul l of l i f e

and i nt er est t hat i t i s wel l wor t h maki ng a l ong day of i t ,

i f one i s a moder at el y good sai l or . The adver t i sement s

cal l i t ei ght and a hal f hour s, whi ch means el even ; but

i t i s not a moment t oo l ong.

Bl ankenber ghe

Yest er day ( 1 4t h August ) we wer e war ned by meagr e f ar e

at t he t abl e d' hot e of our hot el t hat i t was t he vi gi l of some

sai nt ' s day. Our gast r onomi c knowl edge was enl ar ged by

t he oppor t uni t y of par t aki ng of boi l ed mussel s. A smal l and

del i cat e speci es of t hi s l i t t l e f i sh — despi sed of Engl i shmen

— i s f ound i n ext r aor di nar y quant i t i es on t hi s coast . The

sand i s dot t ed wi t h t he shel l s af t er ever y ebb. The wat t l es

of t he j et t i es ar e f ul l of t hem. Af t er t he f i r st shock of

havi ng a sal ad bowl f ul l of smal l bl ack shel l s pr esent ed t o

one, f ol l owi ng i mmedi at el y on a del i cat e pot age a I ' osei l l e,

t he Br i t i sh ci t i zen may pur sue hi s educat i on i n t hi s di r ect i on

f ear l essl y, wi t h t he cer t ai nt y of becomi ng acquai nt ed wi t h

a del i cat e and appet i si ng mor sel ; and he wi l l r et ur n t o hi s

Page 36 of 259

nat i ve count r y wi t h at l east a t ol er at i on f or " wi nks " and

" pi ckl ed whel ks, " when he sees t hem vended at cor ner

st al l s i n Cl ar e Mar ket or i n t he Ol d Kent Road, f or t he

benef i t of t he danger ous cl asses of hi s f el l ow- ci t i zens who

t ake t hei r meal s i n t he st r eet . I n t hese Fl emi sh par t s

t hey ar e eat en wi t h br ead and but t er , and even as whi t e-

bai t , and by al l cl asses.

Af t er t he meal I consul t ed t he cal endar i n my pocket -

book as t o t he appr oachi ng f est i val , not wi shi ng t o t hr ust

my her et i cal i gnor ance unnecessar i l y on t he not i ce of t he

si mpl e f ol k who i nhabi t t he Li on d' Or . That obst i nat el y

Pr ot est ant document , however , i nf or med me si mpl y t hat

t he Rev. E. I r vi ng was bor n on t hi s day i n 1. 7 9 2, pr obabl y

not t he sai nt I was i n quest of . A Chur chman' s Al manac,

wi t h whi ch t he onl y Engl i sh l ady i n t he pl ace was pr o-

vi ded, was al t oget her si l ent as t o t he day. I n t he end,

88 Vacat i on Rambl es

t her ef or e, I was obl i ged t o f al l back upon t he br i ght - eyed

l i t t l e demoi sel l e de l a r nai son, who i nf or med me t hat i t was

t he vi gi l of t he Assumpt i on of t he Vi r gi n, and t hat t he

f et e was one gr eat l y honour ed by t he communi t y of

Bl ankenber ghe.

Thus pr epar ed, I was not sur pr i sed at bei ng r oused at

f i ve i n t he mor ni ng by t he cl umpi ng of sabot s and cl i nki ng

of hammer s i n t he st r eet bel ow — my r oom i s a cor ner one,

l ooki ng f r om t wo wi ndows on t he Rue d' Egl i se, t he

pr i nci pal st r eet of t he pl ace, and f r om t he ot her t wo on t he

Rue des Pecheur s, or " Vi sschur s' St r aet , " whi ch r uns

acr oss t he nor t her n end of t he Rue d' Egl i se. A f l i ght of

br oad st eps her e r uns up on t o t he Di gue, or br oad t er r ace

f r ont i ng t he sea, and at t he f oot of t hese st eps t hey wer e

er ect i ng a t empor ar y al t ar , and over i t a l ar ge pi ct ur e of

f i sher men haul i ng i n net s f ul l of monst er s of t he deep.

They had br ought i t f r om t he par i sh chur ch, and, as such

pi ct ur es go, i t was by no means a bad one. Pr esent l y

t r i col our ed f l ags began t o appear f r om t he wi ndows of

most of t he houses i n bot h st r eet s, and her e and t her e

gar l ands of br i ght - col our ed paper wer e hung acr oss f r om

one si de t o t he ot her . As t he mor ni ng advanced t he

bel l s f r om t he chur ch and convent cal l ed t he si mpl e f ol k

t o mass at shor t i nt er val s, si x, hal f - past seven, ni ne, and

gr and mass at t en. The cal l seemed t o be answer ed by

mor e peopl e t han we had f anci ed t he t own coul d have hel d.

At el even t her e was t o be a pr ocessi on, and now mi ni at ur e

al t ar s wi t h l i ght ed candl es appear ed i n many of t he gr ound-

f l oor wi ndows, bot h of shops and pr i vat e houses ; and t he

st r eet s wer e st r ewed wi t h r ushes and di amond - shaped

pi eces of col our ed paper . Punct ual t o i t s t i me t he head

of t he pr ocessi on came r ound t he cor ner of " Vi sschur s'

St r aet , " hal f a dozen smal l boys r i ngi ng bel l s l eadi ng t he

way. Then came t he beadl edom of Bl ankenber ghe, i n t he

shape of sever al i mposi ng per sons i n muni ci pal uni f or m,

t hen t hr ee l i t t l e gi r l s dr essed i n whi t e, wi t h bouquet s, mor e

boys, i ncl udi ng a di l i gent but not ver y ski l f ul dr ummer ,

si x or seven ot her mai dens i n whi t e, somewhat ol der t han

Page 37 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 89

t hei r pr edecessor s, of whom t he cent r e one car r i ed some

or nament of t i nsel and f l ower s. Then came t he heavy

si l k canopy, suppor t ed by f our l i ght pol es car r i ed by

acol yt es, and sur r ounded by chor i st er s, of whom t he l eader

bor e a l ar ge si l ver censer , and under t he canopy mar ched

a shaven monk i n cr eam- col our ed br ocade sat i n, car r yi ng

t he pyx, and a l ess gor geousl y at t i r ed br ot her wi t h an

open mi ssal . Ar ound t he whol e of t he pr ocessi on, t o pr o-

t ect i t f r om t he accompanyi ng cr owd, wer e a bel t of br onzed

f i sher men i n t hei r best cl ot hes, some car r yi ng st aves, some

hymn- books, and al most al l j oi ni ng i n t he chant whi ch was

r ol l ed out by t he pr i est , i n a power f ul bass wi t h a ki nd of

met al l i c r i ng i n i t , as t hey near ed t he al t ar at t he f oot of

t he st eps. Her e t he whol e pr ocessi on paused, and t he

gr eat er par t knel t , whi l e t he pr i est put i ncense i n t he

censer , and made hi s obei sances and pr ayed i n an unknown

t ongue, and t he censer boy swung hi s sweet - smel l i ng smoke

about , and t he f i sher men and t hei r wi ves and chi l dr en

pr ayed t oo, i n t hei r own t ongue, I suppose, and t hei r own

way, pr obabl y f or f ai r weat her and pl ent y of f i sh, and l et

us hope f or br ave and gent l e hear t s t o meet what ever

r ough weat her and shor t commons may be i n st or e f or

t hem by l and or wat er , Then t he pr ocessi on r ose, and

passed down t he Rue d' Egl i se, pausi ng at t he cor ner of

t he l i t t l e mar ket - pl ace opposi t e a r ude f i gur e of t he Madonna

i n a ni che over some pi ous door way,

AyaXf i a i >Ai vov A^ ' / yi ' j ys uAe i K' UKor ,

and s o out of s i ght . And t he bour geoi s bl ew out t he c andl es

and t ook away t he c hai r s on whi c h, whi l e t he hal t l as t ed,

t hey had been k neel i ng f r om t hei r s hop wi ndows , put t i ng

bac k t he bat hi ng dr es s es , and t he s hel l box es , and ot her

sea- s i de mer c handi s e, whi l e t he whol e non- s hopk eepi ng

popul at i on, and t he nei ghbour s f r om Br uges , and t he

st r anger s who f i l l t he hot el s and l odgi ng- hous es t ur ned

out upon t he s pl endi d s ands and on t he Di gue t o enj oy

t hei r f et e- dny . I n t he af t er noon t he c or ps de mus i que of t he

communal s c hool s of Br uges gav e a gr at ui t ous c onc er t t o

90 Vac at i on Rambl es

us al l by t he per mi s s i on of t he c ommunal admi ni s t r at i on

of t hat t own, as we bat hed, or pr omenaded, or s i pped c of f ee

or l i queur s i n t he br oad v er andahs of t he c af es whi c h l i ne

t he Di gue. Gai l y dr es s ed mi ddl e- c l as s women ( of upper

cl as s es , as we under s t and t hem, I s ee none) , i n many -

col our ed gar ment s and i mmens e s t r uc t ur es of f al s e bac k

hai r , s uc h as t hes e ey es hav e nev er bef or e s een ; a s pr i nk -

l i ng of Bel gi an of f i c er s i n uni f or m, Kus s i ans , Fr enc hmen,

Ger mans a f ew, and t wo Angl o- Sax ons , Engl i s hmen I

cannot s ay , f or one i s an Amer i c an c i t i z en and t he ot her

your c ont r i but or , who c ompos e t he onl y Engl i s h- s peak i ng

mal es , s o f ar as I c an j udge ; gr oups of Fl emi s h women of

t he peopl e i n l ong bl ac k c l ot h c l oak s , wi t h l ar ge hoods

l i ned wi t h bl ac k s at i n, mor e ex pens i v e pr obabl y , but not

near l y s o pi c t ur es que as t he ol d r ed c l oak whi c h t hi r t y

year s ago was t he al mos t uni v er s al Sunday dr es s of women

i n Wi l t s hi r e, Ber k s hi r e, and ot her Wes t er n c ount i es ; l i t t l e

ol d- f as hi oned gi r l s i n ni c e mob c aps , and t he f i s her men i n

Page 38 of 259

ex c el l ent bl ue br oad- c l ot h j ac k et s and t r ous er s , and wel l -

bl ac k ed s hoes or boot s , i ns t ead of t he huge s abot s of t hei r

dai l y l i f e ; i n s hor t , ev er y s oul , I s uppos e, i n Bl ank enber ghe,

f r om t he Bour gmes t r e who s i t s on hi s t hr one, t o t he donk ey -

boy who dr i v es al ong hi s Neddy under a f r ei ght of c hi l dr en,

at hal f a f r anc an hour , whenev er he c an ent i c e t he s mal l

f r y f r om t he s uper i or at t r ac t i on of engi neer i ng wi t h t he

spl endi d s and, s pends hi s or her t hr ee or f our hour s on t he

Di gue, enj oy i ng what ev er of t he mus i c , gos s i p, c of f ee, beer ,

or ot her pas t i mes t hey ar e i nc l i ned t o or c an af f or d ; and

i n t hat whol e c r owd of pl eas ant hol i day - mak i ng f ol k t her e

i s not one s i ngl e t r ac e of pov er t y , not a s t ar v ed f ac e, not

a nak ed f oot , not a r agged gar ment . I t i s t he s ame on

t he week - day s . The peopl e, not abl y t he f i s her men and

bai gneur s , dr es s r oughl y , but t hey hav e al l c omf or t abl e

t hi c k wor s t ed s t oc k i ngs i n t hei r s abot s , and t hei r j er s ey s

and ov er al l s ar e ampl e and s at i s f ac t or y . Why i s i t t hat

i n ni ne pl ac es out of t en on t he Cont i nent t hi s i s s o, and

t hat i n Engl and y ou s hal l nev er be abl e t o f i nd a wat er i ng-

pl ac e whi c h i s not def or med mor e or l es s by pov er t y and

Vac at i on Rambl es 91

t hr i f t l es s nes s 1 Ri ght ac r os s t he s ea, t her e, on t he Nor f ol k

coas t , l i e Cr omer and Sher r i ngham. Mor e dar i ng s ai l or s

nev er manned l i f eboat , mor e pat i ent f i s her men nev er

dr agged net , t han t he s eaf ar i ng f ol k of t hos e c har mi ng

vi l l ages . They ar e c our t eous , s i mpl e, out s pok en f ol k , t oo,

si ngul ar l y at t r ac t i v e i n t hei r l ook s and way s . But , al as !

f or t he r ags , and t he gr i ndi ng pov er t y , dec l ar i ng i t s el f i n

a doz en way s , i n t he c ot t ages , i n t he c hi l dr en' s l ook s , i n

t he women' s pr emat ur e ol d age. When wi l l Engl and wak e

up, and get r i d of t he c ur s e of her weal t h and t he c ur s e of

her pov er t y 1 When wi l l an Engl i s hman be abl e agai n t o

l ook on at a / e/ e- day i n Bel gi um, or Swi t z er l and, or Ger -

many , or Fr anc e, wi t hout a t r oubl ed c ons c i enc e and a pai n

i n hi s hear t , as he t hi nk s of t he c ont r as t at home, and t he

bi t t er s at i r e i n t he ol d, wor n- out name of " Mer r y Engl and?"

I t i s hi gh t i me t hat we al l wer e hear t s i c k ov er i t , f or t he

cank er gr ows on us . Thos e who k now London bes t wi l l

t el l y ou s o ; t hos e who k now t he gr eat pr ov i nc i al t owns

and c ount r y v i l l ages wi l l l ^ n y ou s o, ex c ept per haps t hat

t he l at t er ar e now get t i ng depopul at ed, and s o c ont ai n l es s

al t oget her of j oy or s or r ow. Howev er , s i r , t her e ar e ot her

t han t hes e hol i day t i mes i n whi c h t o dwel l on t hi s dar k

subj ec t . I ought t o apol ogi s e f or hav i ng f al l en i nt o i t

unawar es , when I s at down mer el y t o put on paper , i f I

coul d i n a f ew l i nes , and i mpar t t o y our r eader s t he

ex c eedi ng f r es hnes s of t he f eel i ng whi c h t he f eas t - day at

t hi s l i t t l e Bel gi an wat er i ng- pl ac e l eav es on one. But who

knows when he s i t s down, at any r at e i n t he hol i day s ,

what he i s goi ng t o wr i t e 1 Howev er good y our i nt ent i ons ,

at t i mes y ou c an' t " get t he hang of i t , " c an' t s ay t he t hi ng

you meant t o s ay .

You may wonder , t oo, at t hi s s udden pl unge i nt o t he

f i t e of t he As s umpt i on at Bl ank enber ghe, when I hav e

nev er war ned y ou ev en t hat I had f l i t t ed f r om my r ound

on t he gr eat c r ank whi c h gr i nds f or us al l s o r ut hl es s l y i n

t he par t s about t he St r and and t he I nns of Cour t . Wel l ,

si r , I pl ead i n my def enc e t he t es t t hat a v er y abl e f r i end

of mi ne appl i es t o nov el s . He opens t he s ec ond v ol ume

Page 39 of 259

92 Vac at i on Rambl es

and r eads a c hapt er • i f t hat t empt s hi m, on he goes t o t he

end of t he book ; i f i t i s v er y good i ndeed, he t hen goes

bac k , and f ai r l y begi ns at t he begi nni ng. So I hope y our

r eader s wi l l be i nc l i ned t o per us e i n f ut ur e week s s ome

f ur t her gos s i p r es pec t i ng t hi s pl ac e, whi c h s houl d per haps

hav e pr ec eded t he f et e- day . I f t hey s houl d get t o t ak e t he

l eas t i nt er es t i n Bl ank enber ghi ans and t hei r wor k s and

way s , i t i s mor e t han t hes e l at t er c an be s ai d t o do about

t hem, f or i n t he t wo or t hr ee c heap s heet s whi c h I f i nd on

t he t abl e her e, and whi c h c ons t i t ut e t he pr es s of t hi s c or ner

of Bel gi um, t her e i s s el dom mor e t han a c oupl e of l i nes

dev ot ed t o t he whol e Br i t i s h Empi r e. The f ac t t hat t her e

i s not anot her Engl i s hman i n t he pl ac e, and t hat t he

Amer i c an abov e ment i oned, t he onl y ot her r epr es ent at i v e

of our Engl i s h- s peak i ng s t oc k her e, went onc e t o s ee t he

Der by , and got s o bor ed by t wo o' c l oc k t hat he l ef t t he

Downs and wal k ed bac k t o Eps om s t at i on, endur i ng t he

whol e c haf f of t he r oad, and f i ndi ng t he door s l oc k ed and

t he c l er k s and por t er s al l gone up t o t he r ac e, ought t o be

enough t o mak e t hem c ur i ous — c ur i ous enough at any r at e

f or l ong- v ac at i on pur pos es . Ther e ar e pl ent y of odds and

ends of l i f e a l i t t l e out of our or di nar y t r ac k l y i ng about

her e t o mak e a s mal l " har v es t f or a qui et ey e, " whi c h I

am i nc l i ned t o t r y and gar ner f or y ou, i f y ou t hi nk wel l .

And ar e not t he new Ki ng and Queen c omi ng nex t week

t o del i ght t hei r s ubj ec t s , and wi t nes s many k i nds of f i r e-

wor k s , and a " c onc our s des j oueur s de boul e, di t s pas baen-

bol der s , " what ev er t hes e may be 1

Bel gi an Bat hi ng

I s houl d l i k e t o k now how many gr own Engl i s hmen or

Engl i s hwomen, apar t f r om t hos e unf or t unat es who ar e

pr epar i ng f or c ompet i t i v e ex ami nat i ons , ar e awar e of t he

ex i s t enc e of t hi s pl ac e 1 No Engl i s hman i s bound t o

know of i t by any l aw of pol i t e educ at i on ac k nowl edged

amongs t us , f or i s i t not al t oget her i gnor ed i n Mur r ay ?

Vac at i on Rambl es 93

Ev en Br ads haw' s Cont i nent al Gui de i s s i l ent as t o i t s

wher eabout s . Thi s i s s omewhat har d upon Bl ank en-

ber ghe, s t ur dy and r api dl y gr owi ng l i t t l e wat er i ng- pl ac e

t hat s he i s , al r eady ex c i t i ng t he j eal ous y of her f as hi onabl e

nei ghbour , Os t end. I t mus t be owned, howev er , t hat s he

r et ur ns t he c ompl i ment by t ak i ng t he s l i ght es t pos s i bl e

i nt er es t i n t he c ont empor ar y hi s t or y of t he Br i t i s h Empi r e.

Nev er t hel es s , t he pl ac e has c er t ai n r ec ommendat i ons t o

per s ons i n s ear c h of a wat er i ng- pl ac e out of Engl and. I f

you ar e c ont ent wi t h an hot el of t he c ount r y , of whi c h

t her e i s a l ar ge c hoi c e, y ou may hav e t hr ee good meal s a

day and a bedr oom f or s i x and a hal f f r anc s , wi t h a c on-

si der abl e r educ t i on f or f ami l i es . Ev en at t he f as hi onabl e

Page 40 of 259

hot el s on t he Di gue t he pr i c e i s onl y ei ght or ni ne f r anc s ;

and when y ou hav e pai d y our hot el bi l l y ou ar e out of al l

danger of ex t r av aganc e, f or t her e i s l i t er al l y not hi ng t o

spend money upon. Your bat hi ng mac hi ne c os t s y ou

si x penc e. Ther e ar e no pl eas ur e boat s and no wheel ed

vehi c l es f or hi r e i n t he pl ac e, and no ex c ur s i ons i f t her e

wer e ; s hops t her e ar e none ; and t he mar k et i s of t he

smal l es t and meager es t k i nd. Ther e ar e no beggar s and

no amus ement s , ex c ept bat hi ng and t he Kur s aal . Thes e,

howev er , s uf f i c e t o k eep t he i nhabi t ant s and v i s i t or s i n a

st at e of muc h c ont ent ment .

But now f or t he geogr aphy . Fr om Os t end har bour t o

t he mout h of t he Sc hel dt i s a dead f l at , hi ghl y c ul t i v at ed,

and dot t ed al l ov er wi t h v i l l ages and f ar mhous es , but

somewhat l ower t han hi gh- wat er mar k . The s ea i s k ept

out by an anc i ent and di l api dat ed- l ook i ng dy k e, s ome f i f t y

f eet hi gh, on t he s l opes of whi c h f l our i s hes a s t r ong, r eedy

sor t of gr as s , pl ant ed i n t uf t s at r egul ar i nt er v al s , t o hol d

t he l oos e s oi l t oget her . The f i ne s and dr i f t s up t he dy k e

and bl ows ov er i t , l y i ng j us t l i k e s now, s o t hat i f y ou

hal f - c l os e y our ey es and l ook at i t f r om f i f t y y ar ds ' di s -

t anc e, y ou may f anc y y our s el f on a gl ac i er i n t he Ober l and.

Bl ank enber ghe i s an anc i ent f i s hi ng v i l l age, l y i ng j us t

under t he dy k e, bet ween ei ght and ni ne mi l es f r om Os t end.

When i t c ame i nt o t he mi nds of t he i nhabi t ant s t o c onv er t

94 Vac at i on Rambl es

i t i nt o a wat er i ng- pl ac e t hey l ev el l ed t he t op of t hei r

dy k e f or s ome 600 y ar ds unt i l i t i s onl y about t went y -

f i v e f eet abov e hi gh- wat er mar k . They pav ed t he s ea

f ac e wi t h good s t one, and t he f i ne f l at wal k on t he t op,

t hi r t y y ar ds br oad, wi t h br i c k , and c al l ed i t t he Di gue,

i n i mi t at i on of Os t end. They bui l t a Kur s aal , t hr ee or

f our gr eat hot el s , and hal f a doz en f i r s t - c l as s l odgi ng-

hous es , openi ng on t o t he Di gue, wi t h deep v er andahs i n

f r ont , and t hey br ought a s i ngl e l i ne br anc h of t he Fl ander s

r ai l way f r om Br uges , and t he deed was ac c ompl i s hed.

Ther e i s no s uc h a s ea - wal k any wher e t hat I c an r e-

member as Bl ank enber ghe Di gue, f r om whi c h y ou l ook

st r ai ght away wi t h not hi ng but s ea bet ween y ou and t he

Nor t h Pol e. Fr om t he Di gue y ou des c end by a f l i ght of

t went y - f our s t eps on one s i de t o t he s ands , on t he ot her

i nt o t he t own, t he c hi ef of t hes e l at t er f l i ght s bei ng at t he

head of t he Rue d' Egl i s e, t he bac k bone, as i t wer e, of t he

pl ac e, whi c h r uns f r om t he r ai l way s t at i on t o t he Di gue.

Ther e may be 1500 i nhabi t ant s out of t he s eas on, when

al l t he Di gue hot el s and l odgi ng- hous es ar e s hut up ; at

pr es ent , per haps , anot her 1000, c omi ng and goi ng, and

at t r ac t ed by t he bat hi ng.

Of t hi s i ns t i t ut i on an Engl i s hman i s s c ar c el y a f ai r

j udge, as i t i s c onduc t ed on a met hod s o ut t er l y unl i k e

any t hi ng we hav e at home at pr es ent . My Amer i c an

f r i end as s ur es me t hat we ar e 100 y ear s behi nd al l ot her

nat i ons i n t hi s mat t er , t hat t he Bel gi ans c onduc t i t

ex ac t l y as t hey do i n t he St at es , and t hat t hei r s i s t he

onl y dec ent mode of bat hi ng. I t may be s o. One s ees

suc h r api d c hanges i n t hes e day s , and adv anc ed opi ni ons

of al l k i nds ar e bei ng c aught up s o qui c k l y by ev en s uc h

Phi l i s t i nes as t he Engl i s h mi ddl e c l as s es , t hat he i s a bol d

Page 41 of 259

man who wi l l asser t t hat we shal l not see t he not i ons of

Br i ght on and Dover yi el d t o t he new i deas of Newpor t

and Bl ankenber ghe bef or e l ong. I n one r espect , i ndeed, i t

i s wel l t hat t hey shoul d, f or t he machi nes her e ar e con-

veni ent l i t t l e r ooms on wheel s, wi t h pl ent y of pegs, t wo

chai r s, a smal l t ub, a l ooki ng- gl ass, and ever yt hi ng hand-

Vacat i on Rambl es 95

some about t hem. But t he wheel s ar e br oad, and ver y -

l ow ; consequent l y you ar e onl y r ol l ed down t o t he nei gh-

bour hood of t he wat er , t hi nki ng your sel f l ucky i f you get

wi t hi n f i ve or si x yar ds of i t . Xow, as t he occupant s of

t he machi ne on your l ef t and r i ght ar e pr obabl y spr i ght l y

and somewhat f acet i ous young Bel gi an or Fr ench women,

and as t he beach shel ves so gent l y t hat you have at l east

a r un of f i f t y yar ds bef or e you can get i nt o deep enough

wat er t o swi m wi t h comf or t , t he r oot di f f er ence bet ween

Bl ankenber ghi an and Engl i sh habi t s di scl oses i t sel f t o you

f r om t he f i r st . Of cour se, as men, women, and chi l dr en

al l bat he t oget her , cost umes ar e necessar y, but t hose i n

whi ch t he men have t o ar r ay t hemsel ves onl y make bat h-

i ng a di scomf or t , wi t hout gi vi ng one t he consci ousness of

bei ng decent l y cl ad. You have handed t o you wi t h your

t owel s a si mpl e j er sey, wi t h ar ms and l egs si x or ei ght

i nches i n l engt h, r eachi ng per haps t o t he mi ddl e of t he

bi ceps and f emor al muscl es. I nt o t hi s apol ogy f or a

dr ess you i nser t and but t on your sel f up ( i t i s wel l f or

you, by t he way, i f one or t wo but t ons be not mi ssi ng) ,

and t hen ar e expect ed t o wal k cal ml y out i nt o t he wat er

t hr ough gr oups of l aughi ng gi r l s i n j acket s and l oose

t r ouser s. Havi ng t hr eaded your way t hr ough t hese, and

avoi ded a quadr i l l e par t y on t he one hand, and an excel l ent

f at coupl e, r emi ndi ng you of t he pi ct ur e of Mr . and Mr s.

Bubb i n t he one- hor se " chay, " who ar e bat hi ng t hei r

f ami l y on t he ot her , you addr ess your sel f t o swi mmi ng.

As you descended f r om t he Di gue you r ead, " Bat her s ar e

expr essl y r ecommended t o hol d t hemsel ves at l east f i f t een

yar ds f r om t he br eaker s by buoys desi gned. " You do

not see any br eaker s, but t her e i s a l i ne of buoys about

ei ght y yar ds out t o whi ch you cont empt uousl y paddl e,

and af t er al l f i nd t hat you ar e scar cel y out of your dept h.

When you have had enough you r et ur n, poor , dr i ppi ng,

f or ked mor t al , t o a l ast and sever est t r i al . For t he

uni ver sal cust om i s t o si t about on chai r s amongst t he

machi nes ; and on one si de of your door ar e per haps a

coupl e of nur semai ds chat t i ng whi l e t hei r chi l dr en bui l d

96 Vacat i on Rambl es

sand cast l es, on t he ot her a mat r on or t wo wor ki ng and

gossi pi ng. Now, si r , a man who has been t aki ng t he

r ough and t he smoot h of l i f e f or a good many year s

wi t hi n hal f a mi l e of Templ e Bar i s not l i kel y t o be over -

sensi t i ve, but I woul d appeal t o any cont r i but or on your

st af f , si r , or t o your sel f , whet her you woul d be pr epar ed

t o go t hr ough such an or deal wi t hout wi nci ng ? On my

r et ur n f r om my f i r st swi m I r ecogni sed my Amer i can

cousi n i n hi s el ement . He was cl ad i n a bl ue st r i ped

j er sey, — woul d t hat I coul d have spr i nkl ed i t wi t h a f ew

Page 42 of 259

st ar s, — and was saunt er i ng about wi t h t he gr eat est cool -

ness f r om gr oup t o gr oup, enj oyi ng t he whol e busi ness,

and no doubt l ooki ng f or war d compl acent l y t o t he t i me

when di f f er ences of sex shal l be al t oget her i gnor ed i n t he

academi es of t he f ut ur e. He t hr ew a pi t yi ng gl ance at

me as I skedaddl ed t o my machi ne, secr et l y vowi ng

t o abst ai n f r om al l such advent ur es her eaf t er . Si nce

t hat t i me I have t aken my di p t oo ear l y f or t he Bel gi an

publ i c t o be pr esent at t he cer emony, but , l i ke t he r est

of t he wor l d, I dai l y l ook on, and, unl i ke t hem, wonder .

As t o t he mor al i t y of i t , I can' t say t hat I t hi nk t he

cust om of pr omi scuous bat hi ng as pr act i sed her e seems t o

me ei t her mor al or i mmor al . Occasi onal l y when t he

waves ar e a l i t t l e r ough you see coupl es cl i ngi ng t oget her

f or mut ual suppor t mor e t han t he ci r cumst ances per haps

st r i ct l y r equi r e ; but t her e i s ver y l i t t l e of t hi s. The

whol e busi ness seemed t o me not i mmor al , but i n our

convent i onal sense vul gar , much l i ke " ki ssi ng i n t he

r i ng, " whi ch I have seen pl ayed by most exempl ar y set s

of young men and women on excur si ons i n Gr eenwi ch or

Bi chmond Par k, but whi ch woul d not do i n Hami l t on

Gar dens or a May Fai r dr awi ng- r oom. Meanwhi l e, I

hope t hat as l ong at l east as I can enj oy t he wat er we

shal l r emai n beni ght ed bat her s i n t he eyes of our Amer i can

cousi ns and of t he br ave Bel gi ans. To a man t he f i r st

r equi si t e of a r eal l y enj oyabl e bat h i s sur el y deep wat er ,

and t he second, no cl ot hes, f or t he l oss of ei t her of whi ch

no amount of damp f l i r t at i on can compensat e, i n t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 97

opi ni on at l east of your cont r i but or , who, never t hel ess i n

t hese Bel gi an par t s, whi l e obl i ged t o r ecor d hi s opi ni on,

has per haps a gr eat consci ousness t hat he may be some-

t hi ng of an ol d f ogey.

I suppose t hat a man or nat i on i s t o be congr at ul at ed

about whom t hei r nei ghbour s have not hi ng t o say. I f

so, t he posi t i on of Engl and at t hi s t i me i s pecul i ar l y

envi abl e out her e. I r ead t he I nddpendance Bei ge di l i -

gent l y, but under t he head " Nouvel l es d' Angl et er r e, " f or

whi ch t hat j our nal r et ai ns, as i t woul d seem, a speci al

cor r espondent , I never l ear n anyt hi ng what ever except

t he pr i ce of f unds. We occupy an aver age of per haps

t wel ve l i nes i n i t s col umns, and none at al l i n t hose of

t he La Vi gi e de l a Cot e, t he speci al pr oduct i on of Bl anken-

ber ghe, or of t he Br uges and Ost end j our nal s.

Oh ! wad some power t he gi f t i e gi e us,

To see our sel s as i t hei s see us !

Cer t ai nl y a shor t r esi dence at Bl ankenber ghe shoul d be

t aken i n conj unct i on wi t h t he vol ume of essays on i nt er -

nat i onal pol i cy by Mr . Congr eve and hi s f el l ow Comt i st s,

whi ch I happen t o have br ought wi t h me f or del i ber at e

per usal , i f one want s t o f eel t he shi ne t aken out of one' s

nat i ve l and. I don' t .

Bel gi an Boat s

Page 43 of 259

Bl ankenber ghe has one br anch of nat i ve i ndust r y, and

one onl y. Fr om t i me i mmemor i al i t has been a f i shi ng

st at i on. The l ocal paper decl ar es t hat t her e has been no

change i n t he boat s, t he cost umes, or t he i mpl ement s of

t hi s i ndust r y si nce t he si xt eent h cent ur y, wi t h t he ex -

cept i on not i ced bel ow. One can qui t e bel i eve i t , as f ar as

t he boat s ar e concer ned. They ar e ver y st r ongl y bui l t

t ubs, r angi ng f r om t went y t o t hi r t y t ons, f l at - bot t omed,

t he same br eadt h of beam f or e and af t , bui l t I shoul d

t hi nk on t he model of t he f i r st duck whi ch was seen of f

t hi s coast , and a most sensi bl e model t oo. They have no

H

98 Vacat i on Rambl es

bowspr i t , but a shor t f or emast i n t he bows, car r yi ng one

smal l sai l , and a st r ong mai nmast ami dshi ps, car r yi ng one

bi g sai l . Each of t hese sai l s i s r un up by a si ngl e r ope,

r i gged t hr ough a pul l ey i n t he t op of t he mast s, and of

ot her r i ggi ng t her e i s none. The boat s ar e al l of a

uni f or m r usset - br own col our , t he t i nt of ol d age, l ooki ng

as i f t hey had been once var ni shed, i n t he t i me, l et us say,

of Wi l l i am t he Si l ent , and had never been t ouched si nce.

Ther e i s not a scr ap of pai nt on t he whol e f l eet . I n shor t ,

I am convi nced t hat t he l ocal paper by no means ex -

agger at es t hei r ant i qui t y. I nst ead of f i ndi ng i t har d t o

bel i eve t hat si xt eent h- cent ur y men went t o sea i n t hem, I

shoul d not be st ar t l ed t o hear t hat our f i r st par ent s wer e

t he or i gi nal pr opr i et or s, or at any r at e t hat t he pr esent

f l eet was l ai d down by Japhet , when t he Ar k was br oken

up. The habi t s of t he f l eet ar e as quai nt as t hei r l ooks.

Ther e i s no scr ap of anchor age or shel t er of any ki nd

her e, t he sands l i e per f ect l y open t o t he nor t h and west ,

and t he sur f seems about as r ough as i t i s el sewher e. But

t he Bl ankenber ghe f i sher men ar e per f ect l y i ndi f f er ent ,

convi nced no doubt t hat nei t her sea nor sand wi l l do any -

t hi ng t o hur t t hem or t hei r boat s, f or ol d acquai nt ance'

sake. To me, accust omed t o t he scr ambl i ng, and shout i ng,

and haul i ng up above hi gh- wat er mar k, t he r unni ng of

naked- l egged boys i nt o t he wat er , and t he ener get i c doi ngs

of t he cr ew when a f i shi ng boat comes t o l and at home,

t her e i s somet hi ng of t he comi cal l y subl i me i n t he cont r ast

pr esent ed by t hese good Fl emi ngs. As one of t he ol d

br own t ubs r ol l s t owar ds t he shor e, l ooki ng as i f she

scar cel y had made up her mi nd whi ch end t o send i n f i r st ,

you see a man qui et l y pi t ch a smal l anchor over t he bows,

and t hen down come t he t wo sai l s. Somet i mes t he

anchor begi ns t o hol d bef or e t he boat gr ounds, but j ust

as of t en she t ouches bef or e t he anchor bi t es, but nobody

car es. The onl y not i ce t aken i s t o unshi p t he r udder and

haul i t aboar d ; t hen comes a wave whi ch swi ngs her

r ound, and l eaves her br oadsi de t o t he sur f . Nobody

moves. Bang comes t he next br eaker , l i f t i ng her f or a

Vacat i on Rambl es 99

moment , and bumpi ng her down agai n on t he sand, her

bows per haps a t r i f l e mor e t o sea, but t he cr ew onl y

smoke and hol d on. And so i t goes on, bang, bump,

Page 44 of 259

t hump, t i l l sooner or l at er she swi ngs r i ght r ound and

set t l es i nt o her pl ace on t he sand. When she has adj ust ed

t hi s t o her own sat i sf act i on one of t he cr ew j ust dr ops over

t he st er n wi t h anot her anchor on hi s shoul der , whi ch he f i xes

i n t he sand, and t hen he and t he r est l eave her and wal k

up t o t he Di gue, and gener al l y on t o vesper s at t he chur ch,

whi ch i s of t en t hr ee par t s f i l l ed wi t h t hese j ol l y f el l ows.

Get t i ng of f agai n i s much t he same happy- go- l ucky

busi ness. The men shoul der t he anchor whi ch i s out at

t he st er n, or , as of t en as not , l eave i t on shor e wi t h t hei r

cabl e coi l ed, r eady f or t hei r r et ur n. Then t hey cl amber

i nt o t hei r t ub, whi ch i s bumpi ng away, hel d onl y by t he

anchor out at t he bows. They wai t f or t he f i r st wave

t hat f l oat s t hem, t hen up go t he sai l s, on goes t he r udder ,

t hey get a haul on t he anchor , and af t er headi ng one or

t wo di f f er ent ways get f ai r l y ot t ' .

Thei r cost ume i s pi ct ur esque, — t hi ck r ed f l annel shi r t s,

t he col l ar s of whi ch f ol d over t hei r t i ght l y but t oned bl ue

j acket s, and gi ve a t i dy, uni f or m appear ance t o a gr oup of

t hem. The ol d st ager s st i l l wear huge l oose r ed kni cker -

bocker s and pi l ot boot s, but t he younger gener at i on ar e

degener at i ng i nt o t he common bl ue t r ouser s and sabot s,

t he l at t er al most bi g enough t o come ashor e on i n case of

wr eck. Al t oget her t hey ar e t he most wel l - t o- do set of

f i sher men t o l ook at t hat I have ever seen, t hough wher e

t hei r money comes f r om I cannot guess, as t hey seem t o t ake

l i t t l e but smal l f l ounder s and skat e. Ther e used t o be

good cod- f i shi ng i n t he wi nt er , t hey say, but of l at e year s

i t has f al l en of t ' . The el der f i sher men at t r i but e t hi s t o t he

di sgust of t he cod at an i nnovat i on i n t he good ol d ways

of f i shi ng. For mer l y t wo boat s wor ked t oget her , dr aggi ng

a net wi t h l ar ge meshes bet ween t hem, but t hi s has been

of l at e super seded by t he Engl i sh bag- net syst em, whi ch

br i ngs up ever yt hi ng smal l and gr eat , and di st ur bs t he

pdt ur e accout umec of t he cod, wher eupon he has emi gr at ed.

i oo Vacat i on Rambl es

Di sast r ous i sl ander s t hat we ar e, who never t ouch any -

t hi ng, f r om Japan t o Bl ankenber ghe, wi t hout set t i ng

honest f ol k by t he ear s and br i ngi ng t r oubl e ! The

" Cor por at i on of Fi sher s, " a cl ose and pr i vi l eged body,

who hol d t hei r heads ver y hi gh her e, ar e l ooki ng i nt o t he

mat t er , and i t seems l i kel y t hat t hi s dest r uct i ve chal ut ,

d' or i gi ne Angl i ci se, may yet be super seded. I t r emai ns t o

be seen whet her t he cod wi l l come back.

We have had abomi nabl e weat her her e, but not hi ng i n

t he shape of a st or m. I conf ess t o have been l ook -

i ng out f or a good nor t h- west er wi t h much i nt er est .

Assumi ng t hat t he ef f ect as t o br eaker s and sur f woul d

be much t he same as el sewher e, one i s cur i ous t o ascer t ai n

whet her t hese f i shi ng boat s ar e l ef t t o bump i t out on t he

sands. I f so, and no har m comes t o t hem, t he sooner our

f i sher men adopt t he Bl ankenber ghe model of boat t he

bet t er . I f ear , however , t hat wi t h al l t hei r good l ooks

and ol d t r adi t i ons, t he seaf ar i ng f ol k on t hi s coast ar e

want i ng i n t he spl endi d dar i ng of our own ' l ong- shor e peopl e.

On Monday ni ght t he mai l packet f r om Ost end t o Dover

went out i n a st i f f i sh br eeze, but not hi ng whi ch we shoul d

cal l a gal e, at ei ght o' cl ock. By some cur i ous mi smanagement

Page 45 of 259

bot h her engi nes got out of or der and came t o a dead st op

al most i mmedi at el y. St r ange t o say, her anchor s wer e

down i n t he hol d under t he l uggage ( t he boat s ar e Bel gi an,

not Engl i sh manned) , and she had a ver y nar r ow escape

of dr i f t i ng r i ght on shor e. Lucki l y t he cr ew managed t o

get up an anchor i n t i me t o pr event t hi s cat ast r ophe, and

t her e she l ay r i ght of f t he har bour , per f ect l y hel pl ess,

t hr owi ng up r ocket s and bur ni ng bl ue l i ght s f or hour s.

Nei t her t ug, nor l i f eboat , nor pi l ot boat st i r r ed, and she

r ode at anchor t i l l mor ni ng, when t he wi nd went down.

I vent ur e t o t hi nk t hat such a case i s unhear d of on our

coast s. I t occur s t o one t o ask whet her t her e i s such an

of f i ci al as a har bour mast er at t he por t of Ost encl , and i f so,

what hi s dut i es ar e. Ther e wer e sai l or s enough i n

har bour t o have manned f i f t y l i f eboat s, f or t he Ost end

f i shi ng f l eet of 200 boat s had come back f r om t hei r t hr ee

Vacat i on Rambl es 101

mont hs' cr ui se on t hat ver y af t er noon. The cont i ngency

of r i di ng out a st or my ni ght i n a mai l packet wi t hi n a

f ew hundr ed yar ds of a l ee shor e, i n f r ont of a gr eat por t

f ul l of seamen, i s scar cel y one of t hose on whi ch we

hol i day f ol k r eckon when we book our sel ves f or t he

Cont i nent .

Comi ng out on t he Di gue one ni ght , soon af t er my

ar r i val , I was br ought t o a st and- st i l l by t he appear ance

of t he sea. I t was l ow wat er , so t hat I was about 200

yar ds of t " , and at f i r st I coul d scar cel y bel i eve my eyes, whi ch

seemed t o t el l me t hat ever y br eaker was a f l ood of pal e

f i r e. I went down cl ose t o t he wat er t o conf i r m or di senchant

mysel f , and f ound i t mor e beaut i f ul t he near er I got . Of

cour se one has seen t he or di nar y phosphor escence of t he

sea i n a hundr ed pl aces, but t hi s was qui t e a di f f er ent

af f ai r . The sand under one' s f eet even was mol t en si l ver .

The sci ent i f i c doct or says i t i s si mpl y t he ef f ect of t he

const ant pr esence on t hi s coast of gr eat number s of an

ani mal cul e whi ch can onl y be seen t hr ough a mi cr oscope,

cal l ed t he Nodi l uca mi l i ar i s. I t l ooked on t hat eveni ng as

i f huge f i er y ser pent s wer e const ant l y r i si ng and dashi ng

al ong. Peopl e her e say t hat t hey have i t al ways, but

t hi s i s cer t ai nl y not so. On sever al ot her eveni ngs t he

br eaki ng waves wer e sl i ght l y l umi nous, but scar cel y

enough t o at t r act at t ent i on. I f you coul d onl y make sur e

of seei ng sea and shor e abl aze as i t was on t hat par t i cul ar

ni ght , you ought at once, si r , t o pack t r aps and of f , not -

wi t hst andi ng t hese abomi nabl y hi gh wi nds. I cannot hel p

t hi nki ng t hat , besi des a monst er gat her i ng — pr obabl y a

Ref or m League meet i ng — of t he Nodi l uca mi l i ar i s, t her e

must have been somet hi ng ver y unusual i n t he at mospher e

on t hat par t i cul ar ni ght . I t was a ki nd of " el dr i t ch "

ni ght , i n whi ch you f el t as i f you had got i nt o t he

at mospher e of Tennyson' s Mor t e d Ar t hur , and a gr eat hand

mi ght come up out of t he wat er wi t hout gi vi ng you a

st ar t . Ther e was l i ght r i ght up i n t he sky above one' s

head, a successi on of hal f l umi nous r ai n cl ouds wer e dr i f t -

i ng r api dl y acr oss at a ver y l ow el evat i on f r om t he nor t h-

102 Vacat i on Rambl es

Page 46 of 259

west , not f i f t y yar ds hi gh, as i t seemed, whi l e t he smoke

of my ci gar f l oat ed away sl owl y al most i n t he opposi t e

di r ect i on. Lncki l y, si r , my Amer i can f r i end was wi t h me

on t he ni ght i n quest i on, t o whom I can appeal as t o t he

t r ut h of my f act s, and we had had not hi ng but one bot t l e of

ver y moder at el y st r ong vi n or di nai r e at t he t abl e d' hdt e. I f

your sci ent i f i c r eader s say t hat t he t hi ng i s i mpossi bl e, I

can onl y answer t hat so i t was.

Par son Wi l bur , when he i s consi der i ng t he quest i on

whet her t he abi l i t y t o expr ess our sel ves i n ar t i cul at e l anguage

has been pr oduct i ve of mor e good t han evi l , est eems hi s own

i gnor ance of al l t ongues except Yankee and t he dead

l anguages as " a ki nd of mar t el l o t ower , i n whi ch I am

saf e f r om t he f ur i ous bombar dment s of f or ei gn gar r ul i t y. "

Ther e i s somet hi ng comf or t i ng and f asci nat i ng i n t hi s

doct r i ne, but st i l l on t he whol e i t i s deci dedl y di sagr eeabl e

t o be r educed t o si gns f or pur poses of i nt er cour se, as i s

gener al l y t he case her e. Not one soul i n a hundr ed can

speak Fr ench. Thei r t al k sounds l i ke a sewi ng machi ne,

wi t h an occasi onal wor d of Engl i sh i nt er sper sed i n t he

cl i cki ng. I am t ol d t hat i f you wi l l onl y t al k br oad

Dur ham or Yor kshi r e t hey wi l l under st and you, but I do

not bel i eve i t , as t he sounds ar e qui t e unl i ke. The names

of t hese peopl e ar e wonder f ul . For i nst ance, t hose on t he

bat hi ng machi nes j ust opposi t e my hot el ar e, Van Voor en,

Van Vul pen, Si ska Deneve, Sandel ays, and Col et t e Cl aes,

abbr evi at ed i nt o Cl ot t y by t wo Engl i sh school boys who

have l at el y appear ed, and ar e t he wor st dr essed and t he

best bat her s of al l t he young f ol k her e. They ar e f ast

f r i ends, I see, wi t h a young Russi an, whose f at her , an ol d

of f i cer , si t s near me at t he t abl e d' hdt e. Poor ol d boy ! I

never saw a man so bor ed, i n f act he has di scl osed t o me

t hat he can st and - i t no l onger . Bl ankenber ghe has been

qui t e t oo much f or hi m. Lest i t shoul d al so pr ove so t o

your r eader s, I wi l l end wi t h hi s l ast wor ds ( t hough I by

no means endor se hi s j udgment of t he l i t t l e Fl emi sh

wat er i ng- pl ace) , " Mai nt enant j e n' y pui s pl us ! "

My f at her i n 1870 went t o Amer i ca f or t he f i r st t i me. Hi s t i me

was so much occupi ed t her e t hat he coul d wr i t e onl y home l et t er s.

My mot her has al l owed me t o make ext r act s f r om t hese, t hi nki ng t hat

t hey ser ve t o i nt r oduce hi s l at er l et t er s f r om Amer i ca, whi ch wer e

addr essed t o t he Spect at or .

I t was owi ng t o t he f act of my f at her ' s havi ng publ i cl y t aken t he

si de of t he Nor t h i n t he Ci vi l War t hat hi s r ecept i on i n t he Uni t ed

St at es i n 1870 was so par t i cul ar l y war m and hear t y.

Per uvi an, 6. 45 p. m.

Her e I am, i n my of f i cer ' s cabi n, a smal l separ at e hol e

i n our l i t t l e wor l d on t he wat er , al l t o mysel f . At t hi s

moment I l ook out of my por t hol e and see t he Wel sh

mount ai ns comi ng out agai nst a bed of daf f odi l sky, f or

t hough i t has been mi st y al l day i t i s now a l ovel y cl ear

eveni ng. The sea i s qui t e cal m, and t her e i s scar cel y any

mot i on i n t he shi p. The t ea- bel l i s r i ngi ng, so I must

st op, f or a l i t t l e, but I shal l have pl ent y of t i me t o t el l

Page 47 of 259

you al l t hat has happened as yet , as we shal l be l yi ng of t '

Londonder r y near l y al l day t o- mor r ow. The mai l does

not come of t ' t o us t i l l about 5 p. m. , and we shal l be t her e

about ni ne i n t he mor ni ng or t her eabout s. I may per haps

r un up t o Der r y t o see t he ol d t own and t he gat e and

wal l s, et c. , sacr ed t o t he gl or i ous, pi ous, and i mmor t al

memor y of t he gr eat and good ki ng Wi l l i am.

8. 45 p. m.

Tea was excel l ent , and af t er war ds R and I

went on deck, and saw t he sun go down gl or i ousl y i n t he

l i ne of our shi p' s cour se ; we wer e st eami ng r i ght up a

gr eat r oad of f i r e. The sea get s cal mer and cal mer , and,

i n f act , t her e coul dn' t be l ess movement i f we wer e i n

Gr eenwi ch r each. So now f or t he nar r at i ve of al l my

advent ur es si nce I l ef t you at t he wi ndow. The moment

we got on boar d, t her e was t he r ush and scr ambl e f or

pl aces at t he sal oon t abl e, whi ch Har r y I war ned

me about . We wer e on boar d amongst t he f i r st , but

agr eed not t o j oi n t he scr ambl e, t aki ng any pl aces t hat

i o6 Vacat i on Rambl es

mi ght happen t o be goi ng. Ther e i s somet hi ng so

l udi cr ousl y cont empt i bl e t o me i n seei ng peopl e eager l y

and ser i ousl y st r uggl i ng about such mat t er s t hat I am

qui t e unabl e t o j oi n i n t he wor r y. I doubt i f I coul d

even i f t he shi p wer e goi ng down, and we wer e al l t aki ng

t o t he boat s. I t i sn' t t he l east f r om any vi r t uous or

her oi c f eel i ng, but si mpl y f r om t he l ong dwel l i ng i n t he

f r ame of mi nd descr i bed i n a chapt er i n Past and Pr esent .

When ever y one had t aken t he seat s t hey l i ked, we

set t l ed down ver y comf or t abl y i nt o t wo whi ch wer e

vacant , and whi ch, f or al l I can see, ar e as good as any of

t he r est .

8 a. m. , Fr i day.

Of f t he nor t h coast of I r el and, and a spl endi d coast

i t i s. A st out par t y, on whom I do not t he l east r el y,

t ol d me an hour or so ago, when I f i r st went on deck,

t hat we wer e passi ng t he Gi ant ' s Causeway. The

mor ni ng i s del i ci ousl y f r esh, and t her e i s j ust a l i t t l e

r ol l i n t he vessel whi ch i s sl i ght l y di scomf or t i ng some of t he

passenger s, I see. I sl ept l i ke a t op wi t hout t ur ni ng, f or

whi ch, i ndeed, I haven' t r oom i n my t r ay on t he t op of t he

dr awer s. My onl y mi shap has been t hat when t hey wer e

sl ui ci ng t he decks t hi s mor ni ng, t he wat er r unni ng down

t he shi p' s si de nat ur al l y t ur ned i nt o my wi de- open por t hol e

t o see i f I was get t i ng up. The devi ce was qui t e successf ul ,

as I shot out of bed at once t o cl ose i t up and save my t hi ngs

l yi ng on t he sof a bel ow. No damage done f or t unat el y.

9. 30 A. M. , Fr i day.

Her e we ar e l yi ng qui et l y at anchor i n Lough Foyl e

af t er an excel l ent br eakf ast . We wai t her e f or t he mai l s,

but as i t i s ni net een mi l es I f i nd by r oad up t o Der r y, I shal l

Page 48 of 259

not make t he at t empt . The pl ot t hi ckens on boar d, and

I am al r eady deepl y i nt er est ed. Ther e ar e 150 emi gr ant s

f r om t he East End, who ar e bei ng t aken over by t hei r

par son and a phi l ant hr opi st whose name I haven' t caught

Vacat i on Rambl es 107

yet . I have been f or war d amongst t hese poor f ol k, and

have won sever al hear t s or at l east opened many mout hs

by di st r i but i ng some f ew spar e st amps I l ucki l y had i n

my pocket . Lovel y as t he mor ni ng i s, and del i ci ous as

t he cont r ast bet ween t he exqui si t e ai r on deck, wher e

t hey ar e al l si t t i ng, when cont r ast ed wi t h Whi t echapel

ai r , I can' t hel p l ooki ng at t hem wi t h ver y mi ngl ed

f eel i ngs. They ar e a f i ne st eady r espect abl e cl ass of poor .

The women nur si ng and car i ng f or t hei r chi l dr en wi t h

gr ave, ser i ous, sweet f aces, and t he men r eal l y at t ent i ve.

Al l of t hem anxi ous t o send of f scr aps of l et t er s t o t hei r

f r i ends i n Gr eat Babyl on. Ther e i s one sl i p of t he f or e-

deck r oped of f ent i r el y f or nur si ng mot her s and smal l

chi l dr en, and t her e ar e a l ot of quai nt l i t t l e pl umps

r ol l i ng and t umbl i ng about t her e, wi t h some of whom I

hope t o make f r i ends. A bi r d- f anci er f r om t he East End

has sever al cages f ul l of l ar ks and spar r ows, and a magpi e

and j ay i n st at e cabi ns by t hemsel ves, al l of whi ch he

hopes t o make gr eat mer chandi se of i n Canada, wher e

Engl i sh bi r ds ar e l onged f or , but ar e ver y har d t o keep.

He had l ost hi s hempseed i n Li ver pool , but l ucki l y ; i

boat has gone ashor e, and I t hi nk t her e i s good hope of

get t i ng hi m a f r esh suppl y. Ther e i s a l i t t l e gat her i ng

of t he emi gr ant s f or ser vi ce at ei ght i n t he eveni ng

f or war d. I di dn' t know of i t l ast ni ght , but shal l at t end

hencef or t h. No t hought of such a t hi ng i n t he st at e

sal oon ! " How har dl y shal l t hey t hat have r i ches " !

Her e, as el sewher e, t he t r uest and deepest l i f e, because t he

si mpl est , l i es amongst t hose who have l i t t l e of t he t hi ngs of

t hi s wor l d l yi ng bet ween t hem and t hei r Fat her and t hi s

i nvi si bl e wor l d, wi t h i t s r eal i t i es.

On boar d t he Per uvi an.

We ar e wel l out on t he br oad At l ant i c, whi ch at pr esent

we ar e i ncl i ned t o t hi nk a l i t t l e of an i mpost ur e. Ther e

i s cer t ai nl y a swel l of some ki nd, f or t he shi p pi t ches mor e

or l ess, but t o t he unpr act i sed eye l ooki ng out on t he

108 Vacat i on Rambl es

wast e of wat er s i t i s qui t e i mpossi bl e t o account f or t he

swel l , f or , except f or t he bet t er col our , t he sea l ooks ver y

much as i t does of f t he I sl e of Wi ght ; gr eat waves l i ke

t he sl ope of a chal k down, f ol l owi ng one anot her i n sol emn

pr ocessi on, up whi ch t he l ong shi p cl i mbs l i ke a whi t e

r oad. However , i t i s ear l y days t o gr umbl e about t he

want of swel l , and when i t comes I may not l i ke i t any

mor e t han anot her . Af t er f i ni shi ng my l et t er t o you t hi s

mor ni ng, I went ashor e t o post i t , and f ound t hat af t er al l

i t woul dn' t r each London t i l l t o- mor r ow ni ght . So I sent

Page 49 of 259

you a t el egr am, whi ch I hope you got bef or e bed- t i me at

any r at e, and r edi r ect ed my l et t er t o Cr omer . To pass

t he t i me I t ook a j aunt i ng car wi t h t wo ot her passenger s,

and we dr ove t o an ol d cast l e l ooki ng over Lough Foyl e,

f or mer l y a st r onghol d of t he O' Doher t y' s t i l l i t was sacked

and knocked about t hei r ear s by an expedi t i on of Scot ch

Campbel l s, who di d a good wor k f or t he di st r i ct by

dest r oyi ng i t . We f ound l ot s of shamr ock i n t he r ui ns,

and enj oyed t he dr i ve and st i l l mor e a bat he af t er war ds.

The count r y seems ver y pr osper ous. The peopl e, st r appi ng,

l i ght - hai r ed, bl ue- eyed Cel t s, handsome and wel l - t o- do ; i n

f act , evi dent l y much bet t er f ed and bet t er educat ed t han

al most any Engl i sh count r y di st r i ct I know. The mai l s

came down f r om Der r y i n a t ender , whi ch br ought us t he

news of t he f i r st bat t l e and t he Pr ussi an vi ct or y, whi ch I

f or one al ways l ooked f or , and we got away by seven, t wo

hour s l at er t han we expect ed. However , t he wi nd i s f ai r

and we ar e maki ng f amous way, and by t he t i me I get up

i n t he mor ni ng I expect we shal l be 200 mi l es f r om t he

I r i sh coast .

9. 30 p. m. , Sat ur day.

A l ong cal m day and we have made a spl endi d r un — shal l

be i n Quebec i n good t i me t o- mor r ow week i f t hi s weat her

hol ds ; but knowi ng per sons say i t won' t , and t hat we

have seen t he l ast of f i ne weat her , and must l ook out f or

squal l s — f or why 1 t he wi nd has gone r ound agai nst t he

sun, and i t has set t l ed t o r ai n har d wi t h a bar omet er

Vacat i on Rambl es 109

st eadi l y goi ng down. The Roman Cat hol i c bi shop ( who

i s not ver y exper t i n weat her t hat I know of , but i s a ver y

j ovi al par t y, who enj oys hi s ci gar and gossi p, and was one

of t he f i r st t o go i n f or a game of shovel - boar d on deck

t hi s mor ni ng) decl ar es t hat we shal l have i t f i ne al l t he

way, as he has made t he passage si x t i mes and has never

had bad weat her yet . I n any case I hope i t won' t be

r ough t o- mor r ow, f or we ar e t o have a r eal t r eat i n t he

way of spi r i t ual di ssi pat i on. Fi r st , t he bi shop i s t o have

some ki nd of mass and pr each a shor t ser mon at ni ne ( N. B.

a t i me- t abl e consci ence cl ause i s t o r un al l day, so t hat

onl y l at i t udi nar i ans l i ke me wi l l go i n f or i t al l ) . Then

t he capt ai n who i s a r ar e good f el l ow, wi t h a spi ce of

sent i ment about hi m, whi ch si t s so wel l on such a bul l et -

headed, br oad- shoul der ed, r esol ut e Jack- Tar , has hi s own

ser vi ce at el even, i n whi ch he wi l l do t he pr i est hi msel f ,

an excel l ent exampl e, wi t h a ser mon by t he emi gr ant

par son, whose name i s H , af t er war ds. These i n t he

sal oon; t hen at 2. 30 a ser vi ce i n t he st eer age by H ,

or G , t he ot her par son, and a f i nal wi nd up, al so i n t he

st eer age at 7. 30. G i s t he cl er gyman of Shaf t esbur y,

Geor ge Gl yn' s bor ough ; was f or mer l y i n t he Navy, and

was i n t he Ragged School movement of ' 48, ' 49, when I

used t o go of f ' t wi ce a week i n t he eveni ng t o Or mond

Yar d, when poor ol d M had t he gas t ur ned out , and

Page 50 of 259

hi s hat knocked over hi s eyes by hi s boys. He knew

Ludl ow and Fur ni val , but I don' t r emember hi m. How-

ever , he i s a r i ght good f el l ow, and gave us a r eal l y good

ext empor e pr ayer l ast ni ght at t he mi dshi ps' ser vi ce. The

st eer age i s cer t ai nl y most i nt er est i ng. Ther e ar e now

near l y 500 emi gr ant s on boar d t her e, and t he capt ai n says

t hey ar e about t he best l ot he has ever had. Goi ng r ound

t hi s mor ni ng I was st r uck by a dear l i t t l e l i ght - hai r ed gi r l ,

who was st andi ng wi t h her ar m r ound t he neck of a poor

woman ver y si ck and i l l , and such t ender ness and l ove i n

her poor l i t t l e f ace as she t ur ned i t up t o us as al most

br ought t ear s i nt o one' s eyes. Of cour se I t hought t he

woman was her mot her . No such t hi ng ; she was no

1 10 Vacat i on Rambl es

r el at i on at al l . The l i t t l e dear had never seen her t i l l she

met her on boar d, but was at t r act ed by her mi ser y, and

had never l ef t her si de si nce she had been so i l l . The

poor woman had t wo st r appi ng daught er s on boar d who

had never been near her . How st r angel y f ol k ar e f i xed

up i n t hi s queer wor l d.

Moml ay.

We know what a good swel l i n mi d- At l ant i c means at

l ast . AVe wer e pi t chi ng when I went t o bed, f i ndi ng i t

har d t o get on wi t h my penmanshi p. Of f I went as f ast

as usual , and never woke except f or one moment t o gr unt

and t ur n r ound, or r at her , t r y t o t ur n r ound, i n my t r ay

on t op of t he dr awer s at somet hi ng whi ch sounded l i ke a

cr ash. I n t he mor ni ng we wer e swi ngi ng and bowi ng and

j er ki ng, so t hat I had t o wai t f or a f avour abl e moment t o

bol t out of bed f or f ear of comi ng a cr opper i f I di dn' t

mi nd.

As soon as I was out I saw what t he cr ash had been

i n t he ni ght . My bi g por t mant eau, whi ch had been set

on i t s end t he ni ght bef or e, had had a j umpi ng mat ch wi t h

my wat er - j ug i n t he ni ght . Bot h of t hem had t hr own a

somer saul t acr oss t he cabi n agai nst t he door , but t he j ug-

bei ng br i t t l e ( j ugs shoul dn' t j ump agai nst por t mant eaus) ,

and comi ng down under most , had gone al l i nt o l i t t l e bi t s,

and t he wat er , al l t hat wasn' t i n my shoes at l east , had

soaked my car pet at t he door end. But i t was a gl or i ous

br i ght mor ni ng and t he danci ng hi l l s of wat er and t he

boundi ng shi p sent me up danci ng on t he deck. My hi gh

spi r i t s wer e a l i t t l e subdued af t er br eakf ast , f or I had

scar cel y got on deck when par son H came t o me t o

say t he emi gr ant s want ed me t o gi ve t hem an addr ess.

Wel l , I coul dn' t r ef use, as my hear t i s f ul l of t hem, poor

dear f ol k, so down I went t o get my i deas st r ai ght , and

put down t he heads on paper . I t hought I woul dn' t mi ss

t he ai r , t hough, so set open my por t hol e wi ndow, whi ch

as I t ol d you i s about a f oot acr oss, and set t o wor k — as

I wr i t e, t hi s bl essed por t hol e i s about a yar d away f r om

Page 51 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 1 1

my r i ght ear , and per haps t wo f eet above my head. Wel l ,

I was j ust get t i ng i nt o swi ng wi t h my wor k, when suddenl y

a gr eat pi t ch, and ker swash ! i n comes al l of a wave t hat

coul d squeeze t hr ough my por t hol e, r i ght on t o my ear

and shoul der , over my desk, dr enchi ng al l my paper s,

l uci f er - mat ch boxes, hai r - br ushes, wi deawake, t obacco-

pouch and ot her chat t el s, and f l oodi ng al l of my f l oor whi ch

my wat er - j ug had l ef t dr y. I bol t ed t o t he por t hol e and

cl osed hi m up bef or e anot her cur i ous wave coul d come

pr yi ng i n, and soon r ubbed ever yt hi ng dr y agai n wi t h t he

hel p of t he Capt ai n' s cabi n- boy, and no har m i s done except

t hat I have t o si t wi t h my f eet up on my por t mant eau

whi l e I wr i t e. Thi s sheet was dowsed i n my shower - bat h

t hi s mor ni ng, but I l ai d i t on my bed, and i t seems al l

r i ght now and doesn' t even bl ot ; I shal l however envel ope

i t now wi t h anot her sheet f or saf et y, as I ' m not goi ng t o

keep my por t hol e shut not wi t hst andi ng t he war ni ng, and

I don' t want my l et t er s t o you f l oat ed agai n.

Per uvi an, 9t h August 1870.

Si nce I put my l ast sheet i nt o No. 1 envel ope, ever yt hi ng

i n t he good shi p Per uvi an has been danci ng. The l ong

t abl es i n t he sal oon, at whi ch we ar e al ways eat i ng and

dr i nki ng, have been cover ed wi t h a smal l f r amewor k, over

whi ch t he cl ot h i s l ai d, and whi ch has t he ef f ect of di vi di ng

t hem i nt o t hr ee compar t ment s ; a sor t of t r ough down

each si de i n whi ch ar e t he di shes. Not wi t hst andi ng t hese

pr ecaut i ons t her e ar e const ant cat ast r ophes i n t he shape

of spoons, f or ks, t umbl er s, and somet i mes pl at es, j umpi ng

t he par t i t i ons suddenl y as t he shi p heel s over . The st or y

of t he Yankee ski pper sayi ng t o t he l ady on hi s l ef t , " I ' l l

t r oubl e you, mar m, f or t hat ' er e t ur key — " t he bi r d i n

quest i on havi ng t i ed f r om t he t abl e i nt o her l ap as he was

begi nni ng t o ser ve i t — becomes qui t e commonpl ace. How

t he st ewar d' s men get about wi t h pl at es and di shes, good-

ness knows ; but t hough t her e i s a const ant cl at t er and

smash goi ng on al l over t he shi p I haven' t seen t hem dr op

1 1 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

anyt hi ng. I am al most t he onl y passenger who hasn' t

even had a t wi nge of squeami shness, but we must er pr et t y

wel l consi der i ng al l t hi ngs. The Capt ai n i s one of t he

cheer i est f el l ows al i ve, and keeps up t he spi r i t s of al l t he

women. I f he sees any one of t hem who i s st i l l about

l ooki ng peeky, he whi sks her of f under hi s ar m and wal ks

her up and down t he deck, wher e t hey st agger al ong

t oget her , and t he f r esh br eeze soon r evi ves t he damsel .

He i s a sor t of t empor ar y f at her t o al l t he gi r l s, and con-

st ant l y has, i t seems, t hr ee or f our ent r ust ed t o hi m t o

t ake over or br i ng back.

Of cour se t her e i s a gr eat deal of di scomf or t on boar d,

but I have vi si t ed t he st eer age and am del i ght ed wi t h t he

ar r angement s f or f eedi ng, vent i l at i on, et c. To poor sea-

si ck peopl e, however , i t must be ver y t r yi ng. Thi s

mor ni ng I car r i ed of f t o my cabi n a poor f or l or n young

Page 52 of 259

mar r i ed coupl e, whom I had not i ced on shor e at Movi l l e,

and af t er war ds on boar d. I am sur e t hey hadn' t been

mar r i ed a week, and t hey wer e evi dent l y r eady t o eat one

anot her . When I saw t hem set t l i ng down on a l ar ge

bench i n a cover ed pl ace ami dshi ps wher e wer e t went y or

t hi r t y f ol k, most l y i l l , and sever al men smoki ng, she wi t h

her poor head t i ed up t i di l y i n a r ed handker chi ef nest l i ng

on t o hi s shoul der , I coul dn' t st and i t , and t ook t hem of f

t o my cabi n, wher e t hey coul d nur se one anot her f or a

f ew hour s i n peace. We have had a bi r t h t oo on boar d,

and mot her and chi l d, I am gl ad t o say, ar e doi ng wel l .

She i s a ver y ni ce woman, I am t ol d by one of t he l adi es

who vi si t s her , t he wi f e of a school t eacher . The baby i s

t o have Per uvi an f or one of i t s names. I have r eal l y

enj oyed t he r ough weat her much ; i t has never been mor e

t han hal f a gal e, I bel i eve, t hough sever al men have been

t hr own f r om t he sof as t o t he cabi n f l oor , and mor e or l ess

br ui sed. The cheer y Capt ai n has comf or t ed us al l by

announci ng t hat we shal l be t hr ough t he st or m bef or e

mi dni ght .

Up t he St . Lawr ence t hey say we shal l want l i ght

summer cl ot hi ng. I f t he weat her set t l es down we ar e t o

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 1 3

have an amat eur concer t on boar d, whi ch wi l l be, I t ake i t ,

ver y l ame on t he musi cal si de, but amusi ng i n ot her ways.

B, was ent r ust ed by t he Capt ai n wi t h t he t ask of get t i ng

i t up, and bef or e we got i nt o r ough weat her had booked

some si x or seven vol unt eer s. I dar esay he wi l l be wel l

enough t o- mor r ow mor ni ng t o go on wi t h i t . My addr ess

i s of cour se post poned f or t he pr esent .

Wednesday.

The Capt ai n was qui t e r i ght — we sai l ed cl ear out of

t he st or m bef or e mi dni ght yest er day, and t hough t o- day

some swel l i s l ef t , i t i s so cal m t hat t he sal oon t abl es have

qui t e f i l l ed up agai n at meal - t i mes. I was of cour se nai l ed

by t he par son f or my addr ess i n t he af t er noon, and pl aced

on one of t he f l at skyl i ght s ami dshi ps, as no ot her equal l y

conveni ent and f i xed st ump coul d be f ound. As I know

you woul d sooner get r ubbi sh of mi ne t han poet r y of any

one el se, I gi ve t he out l i ne. " I was t her e, " I sai d, " at

t hei r par son' s r equest , t o t al k, but i t seemed t o me t hat

i n t he gr and scene we wer e i n, t he gr eat waves, t he br i ght

sky, t he f r ee br eezes, coul d t al k t o t hem mor e el oquent l y

t han human l i ps. We wer e wont t o use pr over bs al l our

l i ves wi t hout r eal i si ng t hei r meani ng. ' We' r e al l i n t he

same boat ' had never i mpr essed me t i l l now. Our week' s

exper i ence showed us bef or e al l t hi ngs t hat t he f i r st dut y

of t hose i n t he same boat was t o hel p, comf or t , and amuse

t he r est . I f I coul d do ei t her I shoul d be gl ad. What

wer e we t o t al k about 1 ? ( Shout s of ' Canada. ' ) Wel l we

woul d come t o Canada, but f i r st a wor d or t wo of t he ol d

count r y t hey wer e l eavi ng. Love of our bi r t hpl ace, ot her -

wi se cal l ed pat r i ot i sm, i s one of t he st r ongest and nobl est

Page 53 of 259

passi ons God has pl ant ed i n man' s hear t . You have a

gr eat bi r t hr i ght as Engl i shmen, ar e member s, however

humbl e, of t he nat i on whi ch has spr ead f r ee speech and

f r ee t hought r ound t he wor l d, whi ch was t he f i r st t o

decl ar e t hat her f l ag never shoul d f l y over a sl ave. Fel l ow-

count r ymen of AYycl i t f e, Shakespear e, Mi l t on. Wher -

I

1 1 4 Vacat i on Rambl es

ever you go cher i sh t hese memor i es, be l oyal t o t he ol d

count r y, keep a sof t pl ace i n your hear t f or t he l and of

your bi r t h. You ar e now maki ng t he passage f r om t he ol d

wor l d t o t he new, enj oyi ng one of t hose r ar e r est i ng- pl aces

whi ch God gi ves us i n our l i ves. I t i s t i me f or br aci ng

up t he whol e man f or new ef f or t , f or cast i ng of f ol d, bad

habi t s. One st r ong r esol ut i on made at such t i mes of t en

i s t he t ur ni ng- poi nt i n men' s l i ves. As t o t he l and you

ar e goi ng t o, Kemember you ar e get t i ng a f r esh st ar t i n

l i f e and al l wi l l depend on your sel ves. I n t he ol d l and

t her e i s of t en not enough wor k f or st r ong and wi l l i ng

hands ; i n t he new t her e ar e a hundr ed openi ngs, and i n al l

mor e wor k t han hands. One t hi ng want ed i s honest , har d

wor k. What ever your hands f i nd t o do, do i t wi t h al l

your mi ght , and you ar e sur e of comf or t and i ndependence.

Your new home i s Engl and' s el dest chi l d and has a gr eat

dest i ny t o wor k out . Be l oyal t her ef or e and t r ue t o your

bi r t hpl ace, keepi ng ol d memor i es al i ve and gi vi ng her a

shar e of your l ove ; be l oyal t o your new home, gi vi ng

her your best wor k ; above al l , be l oyal and t r ue t o your -

sel ves and you shal l not be f al se t o any man or any l and. "

Thi s, spr ead over hal f an hour , was my t al k.

When I had f i ni shed I cal l ed on t he Capt ai n, who

war ned t hem agai nst dr i nk i n a st r ai ght f or war d sai l or ' s

speech. Then a gr i zzl ed ol d boy, who had been cal l i ng

out " That ' s t r ue" whenever I spoke of har d wor k,

scr ambl ed up on t he skyl i ght and t ol d t hem t hat he had

come out t hi r t y year s ago f r om Engl and wi t h ni ne shi l l i ngs

i n hi s pocket and seven chi l dr en. He had gi ven each of

hi s daught er s f i f t een hundr ed dol l ar s on t hei r mar r i age,

and hel ped each of hi s sons i nt o a f ar m, and had a f ar m of

hi s own. whi ch he was goi ng back t o af t er vi si t i ng hi s ol d

home i n Cor nwal l . Al l t hi s he had done by har d wor k.

He was a bl acksmi t h, but woul d t ur n hi s hand t o any -

t hi ng. Ti mes wer e j ust as good now as t hen, and ever y

one of t hem mi ght do t he same. Thi s was a spl endi d

cl encher t o t he nai l I had t r i ed t o dr i ve i n. The par son

wound up wi t h mor e advi ce as t o l i quor , and an account

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 1 5

of how wel l t he si xt een hundr ed he had al r eady sent out

had done. The whol e was a gr eat success, and we al l

went of f t o di nner i n t he cabi n i n hi gh spi r i t s. I f t he f ai r

weat her l ast s we shal l see l and t o- mor r ow af t er noon.

To- mor r ow ni ght we ar e t o have our concer t . My young

Page 54 of 259

coupl e have t ur ned up t r umps : he pl ays t he ol d pi ano i n

t he sal oon f amousl y, bei ng an excel l ent musi ci an, and she

si ngs, t hey say, ni cel y when not sea- si ck. The Canadi ans

on boar d assur e hi m he wi l l be caught up as an or gani st

di r ect l y t o hel p out hi s ot her means of l i vel i hood. Then

f or Fr i day we ar e t o have " Box and Cox " i n t he cabi n,

pl ayed by t he Capt ai n and E , who knows t he par t of

Cox per f ect l y al r eady, havi ng pl ayed i t at Cambr i dge.

Mr s. Bouncer has not yet been f i xed on, but a ni ce

l i t t l e Canadi an gi r l wi l l , I t hi nk, pl ay i t .

Tuesday eveni ng.

We had a f og t hi s mor ni ng Avhi ch l ost us a coupl e of

hour s, seei ng however , as compensat i on, a f og r ai nbow — a

col our l ess ar ch, whi ch as you l ooked over t he si de seemed

t o spr i ng f r om t he t wo ends of t he shi p. As t he f og

cl ear ed away and we went ahead we saw an i ceber g t o

t he nor t h, whi ch soon l ooked l i ke a gr eat whi t e l i on

l yi ng on t he hor i zon. Dur i ng t he day, whi ch has been

wonder f ul l y br i ght and col d, we have seen sever al mor e

i ceber gs and a l ot of whal es, one of whi ch came qui t e

cl ose t o t he shi p. We si ght ed l and about seven, and i n

si x mi l es mor e we shoul d have passed i nt o t he Bay of

St . Lawr ence, when a r ascal l y f og came on and f or ced us

t o l ay- t o. The Capt ai n can' t l eave t he deck, so we di dn' t

have our concer t , and we ar e al l goi ng t o bed anxi ous t o

hear t he scr ew at wor k agai n.

Fr i day.

We l ay- t o al l l ast ni ght , t he j ol l y Capt ai n up on t he

br i dge, t o wat ch f or any l i f t i ng of t he f og, so t hat he

mi ght go ahead at once ; but t he f og woul dn' t l i f t , and so

we l ay unt i l ei ght t hi s mor ni ng. Just bef or e br eakf ast i t

1 1 6 Vacat i on Rambl es

cl ear ed, and away we went , and soon ent er ed t he st r ai t

bet ween Newf oundl and and Labr ador . By t he t i me we

had done br eakf ast we wer e r unni ng cl ose by a huge

i ceber g, l i ke a gr eat i r r egul ar weddi ng cake, except near

t he wat er , wher e t he col our changed f r om sugar y whi t e

i nt o t he most del i ci ous gr een. Ther e wer e ni ne ot her

i ceber gs i n si ght t o t he nor t h, and a number of ot her s

r ound us, j ust showi ng above t he wat er , one l i ke a gr eat

i cht hyosaur us cr eepi ng al ong t he waves, or a whi t e bear

wi t h a ver y l ong neck. Had we gone on l ast ni ght i t

woul d have been a per i l ous advent ur e. Soon af t er war ds

we si ght ed t he Nor t h Amer i can, a compani on shi p be-

l ongi ng t o t he same Company, r unni ng some mi l es i n

f r ont of us t o t he nor t h. We had a most exci t i ng r ace,

comi ng abr east of her about t wel ve, and communi cat i ng

by si gnal s. Then we dr ew ahead, and shal l be i n Quebec

near l y a day bef or e her . Then we pl ayed shovel - boar d

on deck, t he ai r get t i ng mor e bal my ever y mi nut e as we

dr ew out of t he i ce r egi on. We had a gr and gat her i ng of

emi gr ant s ami dshi ps, and sung hymns, " Jesus, l over of my

Page 55 of 259

soul , " and ot her s, wi t h a f ew wor ds f r om G — — , t he busy

par son, who has r ecover ed f r om hi s l ong sea- si ckness at

l ast , and i s a f amous f el l ow. The concer t of t he Per uvi ans

came of f wi t h a gr eat pcl at af t er di nner . They put me i n

t he chai r , and I i nt r oduced t he per f or mer s wi t h a sl i ght

di scour se about t he Smi t h f ami l y ( t he Capt ai n' s name i s

Smi t h) , and at t he end t hey vot ed t hanks t o me, i m-

par t i ng t he gr eat success of t he voyage t o my r emar kabl e

t al ent f or maki ng f ol k agr ee and pul l t oget her — ver y

nat t er i ng, but scar cel y accur at e. Then somebody di s -

cover ed t hat i t was a gl or i ous moonl i ght , so up we al l

went , and ver y soon t her e was a f i ddl er and a dance on

deck, whi ch i s onl y j ust over . We ar e wel l i n t he Gul f

of St . Lawr ence, and al l goi ng as wel l as possi bl e.

Mout h of t he St . Lawr ence.

I am much pl eased wi t h t he speci mens of Canadi ans

whom we have on boar d. Ther e ar e some t went y of t hem,

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 1 7

wi t h t hei r wi ves, daught er s, and smal l boys. They ar e a

qui et , wel l - i nf or med, pl easant set of men, and r eady and

pl eased t o t al k of t hei r count r y and her pr ospect s. My

conver sat i on r uns t o a gr eat ext ent , as you may suppose,

on t he chances of f ar mi ng i n Canada West , whi ch i s t he

par t of t he col ony wi t h t he gr eat est f ut ur e, and I am

much pl eased wi t h what I hear . Any man wi t h a capi t al

of f r om 2000 t o 3000 may do ver y wel l , and make

money qui t e as f as t as i s good f or hi m, i f he wi l l onl y

keep s t eady and wor k ; and t he l i f e i s ex c eedi ngl y

f as c i nat i ng f or y oungs t er s .

Ther e i s a v er y ni c e f el l ow on boar d, a gent l eman i n

t he c onv ent i onal s ens e, who i s r et ur ni ng f r om a r un t o

Gl ouc es t er s hi r e t o s ee hi s f r i ends . He has been out f or

sev en y ear s onl y , t wo of whi c h he s pent as an appr ent i c e

wi t h a f ar mer , l ear ni ng hi s t r ade. He i s qui t e i nde-

pendent now, and I woul d not wi s h t o meet a bet t er

spec i men of a man.

I doubt whet her y ou, bei ng s o or der l y a par t y , woul d

qui t e appr ec i at e what appear s t o be t he f av our i t e f or m

of pl eas ur i ng amongs t t he up- c ount r y f ar mer s , but I own

t hat i t woul d hav e s ui t ed my nat ur al man down t o t he

gr ound. Hal f a doz en of t hem, i n t he br i ght , s t i l l wi nt er -

t i me, wi l l agr ee t hat t hey hav en' t s een J ones f or s ome

week s , s o wi l l gi v e hi m " a s ur pr i s e. " Ac c or di ngl y t hey

al l s t ar t f r om t hei r own hous es s o as t o meet at hi s f ar m

about 9. 30 or 10 o' c l oc k — t he t i me he woul d be goi ng t o

bed.

They dr i v e ov er i n s l edges , eac h t ak i ng hi s wi f e, s i s t er ,

or s weet hear t , a good hamper of pr ov i s i ons and pl ent y of

buf f al o r obes . J ones f i nds hi s y ar d f ul l of nei ghi ng

hor s es and s l edges as he i s goi ng t o bed. I f he has

al r eady gone t hey k noc k hi m up. They t hen t ak e

pos s es s i on of hi s hous e and pr emi s es . The men l i t t er

down t hei r hor s es , t he women l i ght hi s f i r e and l ay t he

supper , t he onl y abs ol ut e r ul e bei ng, t hat J ones and hi s

f ami l y and s er v ant s do not hi ng at al l .

Page 56 of 259

They al l si t down t o supper and t hen dance t i l l t hey

1 1 8 Vacat i on Rambl es

ar e t i r ed, and t hen t he women go t o bed ; and t he men, i f

t her e ar e no beds f or t hem, as gener al l y happens, r ol l

t hemsel ves i n t hei r buf f al o r obes and go t o sl eep. I n t he

mor ni ng t hey br eakf ast , and t hen st ar t away home agai n

over t he snow i n t hei r sl edges, af t er t he men have cut up

f i r ewood enough t o keep Jones war m f or a week.

Ther e i s magni f i cent t r out and sal mon f i shi ng, and

deer , wol f , and bear shoot i ng, f or t hose who l i ke t o seek

i t i n t he backwoods, and pl ent y of t i me f or spor t when

t he f ar m wor k i s over , or i n t he wi nt er . At t he bi g t owns,

such as Mont r eal and Tor ont o, t her e i s pl ent y of soci et y,

and evi dent l y cul t i vat ed soci et y, t hough young Guar dsmen

may speak shudder i ngl y of col oni st s.

Box and Cox, by t he way, went of f ver y wel l consi der -

i ng t hat t he Capt ai n, who pl ayed Box, had been up on

t he br i dge al most t he whol e of t he t wo pr evi ous ni ght s,

and consequent l y di d not qui t e know hi s par t .

Sunday l i t h.

Last ni ght we danced on deck t i l l near l y el even under

t he most l ovel y sof t moon I have ever seen. Thi s mor n-

i ng we ar e r unni ng up t he St . Lawr ence al ong t he

sout her n bank, t he nor t her n bei ng di m i n t he ext r eme

di st ance. Ther e i s a l ong cont i nuous r ange of hi l l s

cover ed ent i r el y wi t h f or est , except j ust al ong t he wat er ' s

edge, wher e i t has been cl ear ed by t he Fr ench- Canadi an

set t l er s. They l i ve al ong t he shor e, t oo cl ose, I shoul d say,

t o t he wat er l i ne f or comf or t ; but as t hei r chi ef occupat i on

i s f i shi ng, I have no doubt t hey have good r easons f or

t hei r sel ect i on. Ther e i s scar cel y a quar t er of a mi l e f or

t he l ast t went y or t hi r t y mi l es, I shoul d say, i n whi ch

t her e i s not a cot t age, but t he vi l l ages ar e f ar bet ween.

The peopl e ar e a si mpl e, qui et f ol k, l i vi ng j ust as t hei r

f at her s l i ved, happy, cl ean, cont ent ed, and st at i onar y.

Thi s l ast qual i t y pr ovokes t he Engl i sh of Upper Canada

dr eadf ul l y, who compl ai n t hat t he Fr ench make ever y-

t hi ng t hey r equi r e at home, and buy not hi ng what ever

Vacat i on Rambl es i 19

whi ch cont r i but es t o t he r evenue of t he Domi ni on except

a l i t t l e cheap t ea. However , t her e i s much t o be sai d f or

t he Fr enchmen, and I am ver y gl ad t hat our Engl i sh

peopl e have const ant l y bef or e t hem t he exampl e of such a

sel f - suf f i ci ng and unambi t i ous l i f e. I n t wo or t hr ee hour s,

pr obabl y bef or e our mor ni ng ser vi ce i s over , t he pi l ot wi l l

be on boar d wi t h paper s, and we shal l know what has

been doi ng i n t he gr eat out si de wor l d. I was t hi nki ng of

t el egr aphi ng t o you, but as t he Company t el egr aph, and

publ i sh our ar r i val " al l wel l " i n t he Engl i sh paper s, i t

seems scar cel y wor t h whi l e.

Page 57 of 259

The pi l ot has j ust come on boar d and br ought us

Canadi an paper s wi t h copi es of t el egr ams, and gener al

vague r umour s of t er r i bl e r ever ses f or Fr ance. I al ways

l ooked f or t hem, as you know. Thi s f r i ght f ul r ei gn of

ei ght een year s, begun i n per j ur y and bl oodshed, and

cont i nued by const ant pander i ng t o t he wor st t endenci es of

Fr ance, must have t aken t he power and hear t out of any

nat i on. I pi t y t he poor Canadi ans who st i l l hol d t hem-

sel ves mor e Fr ench t han anyt hi ng el se, as i ndeed t hey

ar e. They gat her on deck and t el l one anot her t hat t he

news i s Ger man, t hat i t i s al l mer e r umour . They wi l l

f i nd i t t oo t r ue i n anot her day or t wo. I am ver y gl ad

t o hear t hat t he Or l eans pr i nces ar e now t o go back.

They ar e a f ami l y of ver y gal l ant and ai de gent l emen, and

ought t o be wi t h Fr ance at t hi s moment . Wr ong as I

t hi nk her , I hope she may soon be abl e t o r al l y, shake of i '

t he char l at ans whom she has al l owed t o mi sr ul e her , and

concl ude an honour abl e peace. The pi l ot - boat went back

at once, and when she l ands our saf e ar r i val wi l l be

t el egr aphed at once, so t hat I hope you may see i t bef or e

t o- mor r ow eveni ng — i f you onl y know wher e t o l ook i n

t he newspaper . I of t en t hi nk how ver y di f f er ent t hose

shor t announcement s at t he head of t he Shi ppi ng news

wi l l seem t o me i n t he f ut ur e.

" Al l an Li ne. The Per vman ar r i ved of f Fat her Poi nt

yest er day. Al l wel l . "

120 Vacat i on Rambl es

Wednesday.

Event s have been cr owdi ng us dur i ng t he l ast t hi r t y -

si x hour s — bl ess me, I mean t he l ast si xt y hour s — I had

posi t i vel y wr i t t en Tuesday i nst ead of Wednesday at t he

t op of t hi s. 1 l et my wat ch r un cl own on t he Per uvi an,

as i t was t oo pr ovoki ng t o have t o put i t back t hi r t y - f i ve

mi nut es ever y mor ni ng. Si nce t hen t i me has gone al l

whi z ! however , I shal l pi ck up t he t i me now and get t o

my bear i ngs, at l east I shal l t r y. Wel l , al l Sunday af t er -

noon we r an up t he gl or i ous St . Lawr ence, past t he

mout hs of what we shoul d cal l bi g r i ver s, past t he

Canadi an wat er i ng- pl aces, past one l ong st r aggl i ng vi l l age

except wher e t he hi l l s ar e t oo st eep or t he soi l absol ut el y

bar r en. The vi ew i s not unl i ke many Scot ch ones, sub-

st i t ut i ng scr ub or st unt ed f or est f or heat her . Thi s of

cour se i s a gr eat di sadvant age i n a pi ct ur esque poi nt of

vi ew, but i t i s mor e t han compensat ed by t he gr eat r i ver .

I am ver y gl ad I came t o t he new wor l d up t he St .

Lawr ence. Not hi ng coul d have br ought t he st ar t l i ng

cont r ast of t he ol d and new wor l d so vi vi dl y home t o me

as t hi s st eami ng l i t er al l y day af t er day up t he st r eam,

and f i ndi ng i t st i l l at 700 mi l es f r om t he mout h

t wo mi l es br oad, wi t h anchor age f or t he l ar gest shi ps t hat

f l oat . We went t he r ound of t he shi p wi t h t he Capt ai n

af t er di nner , t o see t he wonder f ul det ai l of t he st or e-

r ooms, and t he huge f i r e- syst em whi ch goes gl owi ng on

t hr ough al l t he voyage. The si ght of t he t went y - f i ve

gr eat f ur naces gl owi ng, and consumi ng f i f t y- t wo t ons of

coal a day, qui t e scar ed sever al of t he l adi es, who seemed

Page 58 of 259

t o t hi nk t hat t he Per uvi an was f l yi ng, I shoul d say sai l -

i ng, pr esumpt uousl y i n t he f ace of Pr ovi dence not t o have

caught f i r e dur i ng t he voyage. Lucki l y we wer e wi t hi n

a f ew hour s of por t , so t hei r anxi et y was not of l ong

dur at i on. I went t o bed f or t he l ast t i me i n my cr i b on

t he t op of t he dr awer s, l eavi ng wor d f or t he quar t er mast er

t o cal l me when we wer e get t i ng near Quebec. Accor d-

i ngl y I was r oused at about t hr ee f r om one of t he sl eeps

wi t hout a t ur n even ( by r eason t hat t her e i s no r oom t o

Vacat i on Rambl es 121

t ur n) whi ch one get s on hoar d shi p, and scuf f l ed up on

deck i n my t r ouser s and f ur coat t o f i nd mysel f i n t he

most per f ect moonl i ght r oundi ng t he l ast poi nt bel ow

Quebec. Then up went t hr ee r ocket s, and as we sl acked

our speed at t he si de of t he whar f r i ght opposi t e t he

ci t adel , t wo guns wer e f i r ed and t he voyage of t he

Per uvi an, was over . My packi ng was al l done, so whi l e

t he vessel was bei ng unl aden I went qui et l y t o bed agai n

and sl ept f or anot her t wo or t hr ee hour s ami d al l t he di n.

Bet ween si x and seven I t ur ned out agai n and had a good

br eakf ast on boar d, af t er whi ch came l eave- t aki ngs, and

t hen t hose of us who wer e not goi ng on by t r ai n and

wer e r eady t o st ar t , went on boar d a l i t t l e t ug f er r y - boat

and wer e paddl ed acr oss t o Quebec. I have sent a smal l

map t o show you how t he l and l i es. Our f er r y- boat

t ook us over f r om Por t Levi t o t he quay j ust under t he

Ci t adel al ong t he l i ne I have dot t ed, and we at once

char t er ed t wo car r i ages t o vi si t t he f al l s of Mont mor ency,

t o whi ch you wi l l see a l i ne dr awn on t he map and whi ch

i s about si x mi l es f r om Quebec. Oh, t he ai r ! You know

what i t i s when we l and at Di eppe, or at Br ussel s, or Ai x.

Wel l , al l t hat ai r i s f og, depr essi ng wet bl anket compar ed

t o t hi s Canadi an nect ar . I r eal l y doubt whet her i t woul d

not be al most wor t h whi l e t o emi gr at e mer el y f or t he

exqui si t e pl easur e of t he act of l i vi ng i n t hi s count r y.

Mont r eal , VMh August 1870.

1 must get on wi t h my j our nal or shal l f al l al t oget her

ast er n — you have no i dea how har d i t i s even t o f i nd

t i me t o wr i t e a f ew l i nes home ; however i f I can onl y

make up t he t i me t o- day I hope t o keep down t he ar r ear s

mor e r egul ar l y her eaf t er . We had a l ong day of si ght -

seei ng i n and about Quebec. Fi r st we dr ove down t o

t he Mont mor ency Fal l s, 220 f eet hi gh and ver y beaut i f ul ,

t hen back t o t he Ci t adel , whi ch r i ses some 600 or 700

f eet r i ght above t he r i ver — a r egul ar l i t t l e Gi br al t ar ; t hen

we went of t ' t o t he Hei ght s of Abr aham, at t he back of t he

1 2 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

Ci t adel , wher e Wol f e f ought hi s bat t l e and was ki l l ed

af t er scal i ng t he cl i f f s i n t he ear l y mor ni ng. Then we

dr ove down i nt o t he t own, and had l unch at a r est aur ant ,

and wal ked about t o see t he pl ace. Wel l wor t h seei ng

i t i s ; a quai nt , ol d, t hor oughl y Fr ench t own of t he l ast

Page 59 of 259

cent ur y dr opped down i nt o t he mi ddl e of t he new wor l d.

I n t he eveni ng we went on boar d t he gr eat r i ver st eamer ,

and came away al l ni ght up t he St . Lawr ence t o Mont r eal .

Ther e wer e 1000 passenger s on boar d, ever y one of whom

had an excel l ent ber t h — mi ne was br oader and l i ght er t han

t hat on t he Penman. AVe wer e not t he l east cr owded i n

t he spl endi d sal oon ( some 150 f eet l ong) , and t he open

gal l er i es r unni ng al l r ound t he shi p i n t wo t i er s. I

pr ef er r ed t he l at t er , t hough t her e was musi c, Yankee and

Canadi an, i n t he sal oon, and spent my eveni ng t i l l bed-

t i me out i n t he st er n gal l er y l ooki ng at t he most super b

moonl i ght on t he smoot h wat er you can concei ve. We

had a smal l Engl i sh par t y t her e, and t her e wer e hal f a

dozen const ant l y changi ng gr oups r ound us. The gi r l s

have evi dent l y much mor e f r eedom t han at home, at

l east mor e t han t hey had i n our day — t wo or t hr ee woul d

come out wi t h as many young men, and si t r ound i n a

r i ng. The men l i ght ed ci gar s, and t hen t hey woul d al l

set t o wor k si ngi ng gl ees, songs, or what not , and chaf f i ng

and l aughi ng away f or hal f an hour per haps, af t er whi ch

t hey woul d di sappear i nt o t he sal oon. Ther e was a r egul ar

bar on boar d at whi ch al l manner of cool dr i nks wer e

sol d. We t r i ed sever al , whi ch I t hought , I must say, ver y

nast y, especi al l y br andy- smash. Af t er a most comf or t abl e

ni ght I awoke bet ween f i ve and si x as we wer e near i ng

Mont r eal . The ci t y i s ver y f i ne, t he r i ver st i l l t wo mi l es

br oad, and ocean st eamer dr awi ng t went y f eet and mor e

of wat er abl e t o l i e r i ght up agai nst t he quay. S , a

f r i end of Si r J. Rose' s, a gr eat manuf act ur er her e, whom

I had t aken t o t he " Cosmopol i t an, " was i n wai t i ng on

t he l andi ng- pl ace, and t ook us at once up t o hi s char m-

i ng house on t he hi l l ( t he mount ai n t hey cal l i t ) at t he

back of t he ci t y. He i s a man of f or t y- t hr ee or f or t y - f our ;

Vacat i on Rambl es i 2

o

hi s wi f e, a ver y pl easant woman a l i t t l e younger , and

adopt ed daught er , Al i ce ( a ver y sweet gi r l of ni net een, j ust

home f r om an Engl i sh school ) , f or m t he whol e f ami l y. I

can' t t el l you how ki nd t hey ar e and how per f ect l y at

home t hey have made us. Af t er br eakf ast we went down

t o see t he ci t y, got phot ogr aphed wi t h t he r est of t he

above- named Per uvi ans, had a del i ci ous l unch of f r i ed

oyst er s at a l uncheon shop kept by a Yankee, washed i t

down wi t h a dr i nk cal l ed John Col l i ns, a pl easant , col d,

weak, scent ed ki nd of gi n and wat er . Si r Geo. Car t er

and Si r Fr as. Hi nks, t wo of t he pr esent Gover nment ,

bot h of whom I had met i n Engl and, came t o di nner , al so

Hol t on t he l eadi ng senat or of t he Opposi t i on, and t he t wo

young Eoses, one br i ngi ng hi s pr et t y young wi f e, and

we had a l ong and ver y i nt er est i ng pol i t i cal t al k af t er -

war ds. Not hi ng coul d have sui t ed me bet t er , as t her e

ar e many poi nt s of Canadi an pol i t i cs I am ver y anxi ous

t o get vi ews on. We di dn' t get t o bed t i l l 12. 30, so I

Page 60 of 259

had no t i me t o wr i t e. On Wednesday we saw mor e of

t he ci t y whi ch I shan' t at t empt t o descr i be t i l l I can si t

by you wi t h phot ogr aphs and expl ai n, l unched at t he

Cl ub, of whi ch we have been made honor ar y member s,

wi t h a l ar ge par t y of mer chant s and ot her bi g f ol k, and

t hen at t hr ee wer e pi cked up by Mr s. S. , who dr ove us

up t he r i ver t o a pl ace cal l ed Lachi ne, past t he r api ds

( see Canadi an boat - song) , " The r api ds ar e near and t he

dayl i ght ' s past . " Lachi ne get s i t s queer name f r om t he

f i r st Fr ench Mi ssi onar i es who st ar t ed up t he St . Lawr ence

t o get t o Chi na, and f or some unaccount abl e r eason

t hought t hey had r eached t he f l ower y l and when t hey

got t o t hi s pl ace, so set t l ed down and cal l ed i t Chi na,

The ai r was st i l l char mi ng, but t he sky was begi nni ng t o get

l ess br i ght , and Mr s. S and A agr eed t hat t her e

must be a f or est bur ni ng somewher e. And so i t pr oved, f or

i n a f ew hour s t he whol e sky was cover ed wi t h a smoke-

cl oud, l i ght but not depr essi ng, l i ke our f ogs, but st i l l so

dense t hat we coul d scar cel y see acr oss t he r i ver . We

got back i n t i me f or di nner , t o whi ch came Col onel Bul l er ,

124 Vacat i on Rambl es

now commandi ng t he Ri f l es her e ; Hugh Al l an, t he head of

t he gr eat f i r m of shi p- owner s t o whom t he Per uvi an and

al l t he r est of t he Al l an l i ne packet s bel ong ; and sever al

young Canadi ans. I t was ver y pl easant agai n, and agai n

I got a heap of i nf or mat i on on Canadi an subj ect s f r om

Al l an, who i s a l ongheaded abl e ol d Scot chman, t he f ounder

of t he i mmense pr osper i t y of hi msel f and al l hi s f ami l y.

He has hi s pr i vat e st eam yacht and a gr eat pl ace on a

l ake near her e, wher ei n i s a pr i vat e t el egr aph, so t hat he

can wi r e al l over t he wor l d f r om hi s own hal l . Pr i nce

Ar t hur went t o st ay wi t h hi m when he was out her e i n

t he l at e aut umn and spr i ng, and t he Queen wi r ed hi m

ever y day whi l e he was t her e. Ear l y next mor ni ng S ,

Mi ss A , I , and E, wer e of f by r ai l t o a st at i on

t en or t wel ve mi l es up t he r i ver , wher e we wai t ed t i l l t he

Mont r eal mar ket - boat came down and pi cked us up t o

shoot t he r api ds. We had a ver y pl easant r un t o Quebec,

and t he shoot i ng t he r api ds i s ver y i nt er est i ng, but nei t her

danger ous nor even exci t i ng. The r i ver wi dens out

per haps t o t wo and a hal f mi l es i n wi dt h, and f or some

mi l e or mi l e and a hal f br eaks i nt o t hese r api ds, whi ch

boi l and r ush al ong at a gr eat pace, and i n qui t e a l i t t l e

boat woul d no doubt keep t he st eer er and oar smen on

t he st r et ch. The appr oach t o Mont r eal under t he gr eat

Vi ct or i a Br i dge, t wo mi l es l ong, i s ver y nobl e. We got

back t o br eakf ast at t en, and af t er war ds went up t he

mount ai n at t he back of t he t own, but t he haze f r om t he

bur ni ng f or est qui t e spoi l ed t he vi ew. The car r i age i s

announced, so I must cl ose.

Mont r eal , 20t h August 1870.

1 hur r i ed up my l et t er s yest er day, so as t o br i ng my

Page 61 of 259

j our nal down t o t he day I was wr i t i ng on, f ear i ng l est

ot her wi se I shoul d never cat ch t he t hr ead agai n. I doubt

whet her I t ol d you anyt hi ng about t hi s ver y f i ne ci t y, i n

t he subur bs of whi ch we ar e st oppi ng, and whi ch we l eave

t o- day. Wel l , I scar cel y know how t o begi n t o gi ve you

an i dea of i t . I t i sn' t t he l east l i ke an Engl i sh or i ndeed

Vacat i on Rambl es 125

any Eur opean t own, t he r eason bei ng, I t ake i t , t hat i t has

been bui l t wi t h t he necessi t y of meet i ng ext r emes of heat

and col d, whi ch we never get . Except i n t he hear t of t he

ci t y, wher e t he gr eat busi ness st r eet s ar e, t her e ar e t r ees

al ong t he si des of al l t he t hor oughf ar es — mapl es, whi ch

gi ve r eal shade, and ar e i n many pl aces i ndeed t oo t hi ck,

and t oo near t he houses f or comf or t I shoul d say — as near

as t he pl ane- t r ee was t o our dr awi ng- r oom wi ndow at 33.

Thi s ar r angement makes wal ki ng about ver y pl easant t o

me, even when t he t her momet er st ands at 90 J i n t he shade

as i t di d yest er day. Then i nst ead of a st one f oot - pavement

you have al most ever ywher e boar ds, t i mber bei ng t he

most pl ent i f ul pr oduct i on of t he count r y. Wal ki ng al ong

t he boar ds i n t he mor ni ng you see at ever y door a gr eat

l ump of i ce, t went y pounds wei ght or so, l yi ng t her e f or

t he mai d t o t ake i n when she comes out t o cl ean. Thi s

i s suppl i ed by t he i ce mer chant s f or a f ew shi l l i ngs a year .

The houses ar e squar e, bui l t gener al l y of a f i ne l i mest one

f ound al l over t he i sl and ( Mont r eal i s an i sl and t hi r t y - si x

mi l es l ong by ni ne wi de) , and have al l gr een open shut t er -

bl i nds, whi ch t hey keep const ant l y shut al l day, as i n

Gr eece, t o keep out t he heat , and doubl e wi ndows t o keep

out t he col d. The r oof s ar e gener al l y cover ed wi t h t i n

i nst ead of t i l es or sl at es, and al l t he chur ch st eepl es, of

whi ch t her e ar e a ver y l ar ge number , ar e t i nned, as you

r emember we saw t hem i n par t s of Aust r i a and Hungar y.

Ther e ar e magni f i cent st or es of dr y goods, gr ocer i es, et c. ,

but scar cel y any shops i n our sense. No but cher , mi l k -

man, gr eengr ocer , et c. , cal l s at t he door , and t he l adi es have

al l t o go down t o t he mar ket or send t her e. Not hi ng can

be bet t er t han t he l i vi ng, but Mr s. S compl ai ns t hat i t i s

ver y har d wor k f or hausf r aus, and I have hear d Lady R

say t he same t hi ng. Thi s house i s i n one of t he shaded

avenues on t he sl opes of t he mount ai n, t wo mi l es I shoul d

say f r om t he mar ket . Mr s. S dr i ves down ever y mar ket -

day and buys pr ovi si ons, mar ket - days bei ng t wi ce a week,

but t he st al l s ar e open on ot her days al so, so t hat i f a

Hood of company comes i n on t he i nt er medi at e days, t he

126 Vacat i on Rambl es

anxi ous housewi f e need not be absol ut el y cl one f or . The

l i vi ng i s as good as can be, not aspi r i ng t o f i r st - r at e Fr ench

cooker y, but equal t o anyt hi ng you f i nd i n good Engl i sh

houses. Pr i ces ar e ver y r easonabl e except f or f ancy

ar t i cl es of cl ot hi ng, et c. Fur s, whi ch you woul d expect

t o f i nd cheap, ar e at l east as hi gh as i n London, and Pi — —

made an i nvest ment i n gl oves f or whi ch he pai d si x shi l l i ngs

Page 62 of 259

a pai r . The ci t y i s t he qui et est and best - behaved I ever

was i n. We di ned at t he mess of t he 60t h Ri f l es l ast

ni ght , and wal ked home t hr ough t he hear t of t he ci t y at

10. 30. Ever y one had gone t o bed, appar ent l y, f or t her e

wasn' t a l i ght i n f i f t y houses and we l i t er al l y met no one —

not hal f a dozen peopl e cer t ai nl y i n t he whol e di st ance.

Al t oget her I am ver y much i mpr essed wi t h t he heal t hi ness

of t he l i f e, mor al l y and physi cal l y, and can scar cel y i magi ne

any count r y I woul d sooner st ar t i n wer e I begi nni ng l i f e

agai n.

Tuesday mor ni ng, 23r d August 1870.

Wel l , t o cont i nue, on Sat ur day Ave br oke up f r om

Mont r eal , havi ng I t hi nk seen ver y t hor oughl y al l t he

per sons and t hi ngs best wor t h seei ng i n t he pl ace. Our

host had ar r anged t hat we shoul d go and spend Sunday

wi t h Mr . Hugh Al l an, t he head of t he f ami l y whi ch has

est abl i shed t he l i ne of mai l st eamer s t o Li ver pool and

Gl asgow. He has been f or t y year s out her e, and when

he came Mont r eal had onl y 17, 000 i nhabi t ant s, now i t has

150, 000; t her e was scar cel y wat er f or a 200 t on shi p t o

l i e at t he whar f , now you can see st eamer s of 2000 t ons

and upwar ds al ways t her e. Hugh Al l an i s evi dent l y a

ver y r i ch man now. He has a bi g house on t he mount ai n

behi nd Mont r eal , and t hi s pl ace wher e I am now wr i t i ng

f r om, on Memphr emagog Lake, whi ch i f you have a good

map, you wi l l f i nd hal f i n Canada and hal f i n t he New

Engl and st at e of Ver mont . I t i s a l ovel y i nl and sea,

about t hi r t y- f i ve mi l es l ong and var yi ng f r om one t o t hr ee

mi l es br oad. Mr . Al l an' s house, wher e he ent er t ai ned

Pr i nce Ar t hur i n t he spr i ng, st ands on t he t op of a hi gh

Vacat i on Rambl es i 2 7

wel l - wooded pr omont or y, about hal f - way up. I t i s a good,

commodi ous, gent l eman' s house, wi t h deep ver andahs,

t hor oughl y comf or t abl e, but wi t hout pr et ence or show of

any ki nd. Ther e i s a l ar ge wooden out - bui l di ng cal l ed

t he Her mi t age, about one hundr ed yar ds of f , di vi ded

ent i r el y i nt o bedr ooms, so t hat t her e i s r oom f or l ot s of

guest s besi des t he f ami l y, seven or ei ght of whom ar e

her e. I n anot her bui l di ng t her e i s an Amer i can bowl i ng-

al l ey, and an excel l ent cr oquet gr ound bef or e t he house.

Mr . Al l an keeps a ni ce st eam yacht , whi ch r uns about t he

l ake dai l y wi t h any one who l i kes t o go, and t her e ar e

hal f a dozen r owi ng boat s, so t i me need not hang heavi l y

on t he most r est l ess hands. I accept ed t he i nvi t at i on, as

a f ew days at Memphr emagog i s evi dent l y consi der ed t he

t hi ng t o do by al l Canadi ans, and t he l ast t went y mi l es or

so of t he r ai l way t o Newpor t ( Ver mont ) , t he pl ace at t he

f oot of t he l ake at whi ch you embar k, has onl y j ust been

f i ni shed, r i ght t hr ough t he f or est , so t hat i t was a good

chance of seei ng t he begi nni ngs of col oni al l i f e i n t he bush.

And I am ver y gl ad t hat I di d come, f or cer t ai nl y i f t he

j our ney ( 120 mi l es al t oget her ) had been pl anned f or t he

pur pose, i t coul dn' t have been mor e i nt er est i ng. Af t er

l eavi ng Mont r eal we t r avel l ed I shoul d say f or f r om t hi r t y

t o f or t y mi l es t hr ough r ecl ai med count r y, dot t ed wi t h

Fr ench vi l l ages and t he homest eads of wel l - t o- do f ar mer s.

Then we gr adual l y sl i pped i nt o hal f - cl ear ed woods, and

t hen i nt o vi r gi n f or est . Pr esent l y we came acr oss a gr eat

Page 63 of 259

bl ock of t he f or est on f i r e, but i n br oad dayl i ght t he si ght

i s not t he l east gr and, t hough unpl easant f r om t he smoke,

and mel anchol y f r om t he wast e and mi schi ef whi ch t he

f i r es do. I t hi nk I t ol d you i n my l ast t hat t he f or est s

about Ot t awa, t he capi t al of t he Domi ni on, wer e on f i r e

l ast week. The f i r e became so ser i ous t hat gr eat f ear s

wer e ent er t ai ned f or t he t own, t he mi l i t i a and vol unt eer s

wer e cal l ed out , and a speci al t r ai n wi t h f i r e- engi nes was

sent up f r om Mont r eal . Scor es of poor set t l er s wer e i n

t he st r eet s, havi ng wi t h di f f i cul t y escaped wi t h t hei r l i ves,

and l ast of al l sever al wr et ched bear s t r ot t ed out of t he

128 Vacat i on Rambl es

bur ni ng woods i nt o t he t own. The f i r e we passed t hr ough

was not at al l on t hi s scal e, and di dn' t seem l i kel y t o get

ahead. Ther e wer e t he mar ks of f i r es of f or mer year s on

al l si des i n t hese f or est s. Tal l st ems by hundr eds, st and-

i ng up char r ed and gaunt out of t he mi ddl e of t he br i ght

gr een mapl e under wood, whi ch i s f ast gr owi ng up r ound

t hem, and i n a ver y shor t t i me makes t he t angl e as t hi ck

as ever . Bef or e l ong we came t o smal l cl ear i ngs of f r om

t hr ee t o f our acr es, on each of whi ch was a r ough wooden

shant y, wi t h hal f a dozen wi l d, br own, heal t hy- l ooki ng

chi l dr en r ol l i ng and scr ambl i ng about i t , and st andi ng up

i n t hei r si ngl e gar ment s t o cheer t he t r ai n. On t hese pl ot s

t he t r ees had al l been f el l ed about t wo f eet f r om t he gr ound,

and t he br ushwood cl ear ed away, and t her e wer e cr ops of

I ndi an cor n, oat s, or buckwheat gr owi ng al l r ound t he

st umps. Then we came t o pl ot s whi ch had been occupi ed

l onger , wher e t he shant y had gr own i nt o a ni ce- si zed cot -

t age, wi t h a good- si zed out house near . Her e al l t he st umps

had been cl ear ed, and t he pl ot di vi ded by f ences, and

t hr ee or f our cows woul d be poki ng about . Then we

came t o a f i ne r i ver and r an al ong t he bank, passi ng her e

and t her e sawmi l l s of huge si ze, and st oppi ng at one or

t wo l ar ge pr i mi t i ve vi l l ages, gat her ed r ound a manuf act or y.

I n shor t , i n t he day' s r un we saw Canadi an l i f e i n al l i t s

phases, endi ng wi t h a del i ci ous t wel ve mi l es' r un up t he

l ake i n Mr . Al l an' s st eam yacht , wi t h t he whol e sky

f l i cker i ng wi t h Nor t her n l i ght s, whi ch shot and pl ayed

about f or our speci al del i ght . Our r ai l way par t y wer e Mr .

Al l an; Mr . and Mr s. S , and Mi ss B , t hei r adopt ed

daught er ; Gener al Li ndsay, whom I knew wel l i n Engl and

and l i ke ver y much ; Col onel Eyr e, hi s mi l i t ar y secr et ar y,

and our sel ves. Then t her e ar e ei ght chi l dr en her e. We

had a most l uxur i ous car , wi t h a l i t t l e si t t i ng- r oom i n

Avhi ch we each had an easy chai r , and t her e wer e t wo

most ent i ci ng- l ooki ng l i t t l e bedr ooms, ever yt hi ng as cl ean

and neat as you coul d have i t , and we coul d wal k out on

t o a pl at f or m at ei t her end t o l ook at t he vi ew. Ther e

was a boy al so i n at t endance i n a l i t t l e sor t of spar e r oom

Vacat i on Rambl es 129

wher e t he l uggage went , who mi ni st er ed any amount of

i ced wat er t o any one who cal l ed. Thi s i s deci dedl y t he

most l uxur i ous t r avel l i ng I ever had, but t hen t he car was

Page 64 of 259

t he pr i vat e one of t he manager of t he Gr and Tr unk Kai l -

way ; and t he democr at i c car s i n whi ch ever y one el se

went , and i n whi ch i ndeed we had t o t r avel f or t he l ast

f ew mi l es, wer e ver y di f f er ent af f ai r s. Fancy my i nt ense

del i ght on Sunday mor ni ng, as I wal ked f r om t he Her mi t -

age up t o t he house t o br eakf ast t hr ough some f l ower - beds,

t o see t wo hummi ng- bi r ds, poi si ng t hemsel ves bef or e

f l ower af t er f l ower whi l e pr obi ng and t r yi ng t he bl ooms

wi t h t hei r l ong bi l l s, and t hen spr i ngi ng back wi t h a st r oke

of t hei r l ovel y l i t t l e t ai l s, and whi ski ng of f t o t he next

bl oom. They wer e gr een and br own, not so l ovel y i n

col our as many you have seen i n col l ect i ons, but exqui si t e

as eye need ask t o l ook at . The hummi ng- bi r ds have

been cer t ai nl y my gr eat est nat ur al hi st or y t r eat as yet ,

not except i ng t he whal es. I had seen a whal e bef or e, a

smal l one, i n t he Hebr i des, and I had never seen a hummi ng-

bi r d except st uf f ed ; mor eover I expect ed t o see whal es, but

not hummi ng- bi r ds. We saw a f i ne gr eat bal d- headed

eagl e t o- day, t oo, sai l i ng over t he l ake, but hi s f l i ght was

not anyt hi ng l i ke so f i ne as t hose we saw soar i ng over t he

I r on Gat es as we went spi nni ng down t he Danube ni ne

year s ago. We have a ver y char mi ng vi si t her e st eami ng

about t he l ake, dr i vi ng al ong t he banks, pl ayi ng cr oquet

and bowl s and bi l l i ar ds, and l aughi ng, chaf f i ng, and l oaf i ng

t o any ext ent . The f ami l y ar e ver y ni ce, and I hope he

wi l l soon be made a bar onet and one of t he f i r st gr andees

of t he Domi ni on. To- mor r ow mor ni ng at f i ve we st ar t

f or Bost on i n t he st eam yacht , whi ch t akes us down t o

Newpor t at t he end of t he l ake. So by t he eveni ng I

shal l per haps get a l et t er f r om you. How I do t hi r st f or

home news af t er t hr ee weeks' absence.

El mwood, Cambr i dge, Massachuset t s,

25t h August 1870.

I f or get j ust wher e I l ef t of f , whet her I had br ought my

K

130 Vacat i on Rambl es

j our nal up t o our l eavi ng Memphr emagog or not . The

l ast day t her e was as pl easant as t he r est . The young

f ol ks pl ayed cr oquet and Amer i can bowl s al l t he mor ni ng,

whi l e I l ay on t he gr ass wat chi ng f or hummi ng- bi r ds and

t al ki ng occasi onal pol i t i cs t o any one who woul d j oi n me.

At about t wel ve a r et i r ed j udge, Day by name, who l i ves

f our or f i ve mi l es of f , dr ove over wi t h a member of t he

Gover nment ( I f or get hi s name) who was t o st ar t f r om

t he pi er bel ow t he house i n t he l ake st eamer . Mr . Al l an

owns t hi s st eamer , whi ch st ops at hi s pi er whenever he

r uns up a f l ag ; so you see t he pr i vi l eged cl asses ar e not

ext i nct by any means i n t he Br i t i sh domi ni on i n t he new

wor l d. Now t he Judge, havi ng a seat i n hi s l i ght sor t of

phaet on, pr oposed t o dr i ve me over t o t he post - of f i ce,

about f our mi l es of f , wher e he was goi ng, and t o br i ng me

back t o l uncheon. So I embar ked behi nd hi s t wo st r ong

l i t t l e t r ot t i ng nags and had a most i nt er est i ng dr i ve. The

r oads wer e not wor se t han many Devonshi r e l anes, and

wher e t he pi t ches wer e st eepest , t he st out l i t t l e nags made

not hi ng of t hem.

Page 65 of 259

The vi ews of t he l ake wer e exqui si t e, and t he Judge one

of t he pl easant est of men. He had been empl oyed i n 1865

on a mi ssi on t o Washi ngt on, and gave me ver y gr aphi c

account s of hi s i nt er vi ews wi t h Li ncol n and t he ot her

l eadi ng men t her e, and conf i r med many of my own vi ews

as t o t he compar at i ve chances of t he t wo gr eat sect i ons of

our r ace i n t he new wor l d i n t he f ut ur e. He i s l ess

appr ehensi ve of Canada j oi ni ng t he Uni t ed St at es t han

most men of hi s st andi ng, and I t hi nk has good r eason

f or hi s conf i dence. Mat er i al i nt er est wi l l per haps f or a

t i me ( or r at her , af t er a t i me, f or at pr esent i t i s ver y

doubt f ul on whi ch si de t hey wei gh) sway i n t he di r ect i on

of annexat i on t o t he Uni t ed St at es, but t he abl est and

most ener get i c of t he younger men of t he cul t i vat ed

cl asses ar e so st r ongl y bent on devel opi ng a di st i nct

nat i onal l i f e, t hat I expect t o see t hem car r y t hei r count r y

f or i ndependence r at her t han annexat i on, when t he t i me

comes, i f i t ever shoul d, of a f i nal cut t i ng of t he r opes

Vacat i on Rambl es 131

whi ch bi nd t hem t o us. Af t er l uncheon we went of f i n

t he st eam yacht t o a bay i n t he l ake, and t hen i n r ow

boat s f our or f i ve mi l es up t he bay i nt o t he hear t of t he

hi l l s, wher e we saw bal d- headed eagl es, and bl ack and

whi t e ki ng- f i sher s f i ve t i mes t he si ze of our s, and af t er a

ver y i nt er est i ng and pl easant excur si on got back t o di nner ,

f i ni shi ng t he eveni ng wi t h danci ng. At f i ve next mor ni ng

we hear d t he st eamer ' s whi st l e cal l i ng us. The young

l adi es wer e up t o gi ve us a cup of cof f ee and par t i ng

good wor ds, and t hen we st eamed down f or Newpor t ,

wher e we wer e t o t ake t he r ai l t hr ough t he Connect i cut

val l ey t o Bost on. On t he Newpor t whar f whi ch j oi ns t he

st at i on we sai d good- bye t o Al l an and St ephen, and shal l

car r y away most char mi ng memor i es of our st ay i n Canada.

Gener al Li ndsay and Eyr e went wi t h, us, and t hei r com-

pani onshi p made t he j our ney ver y agr eeabl e, t hough i t

was as hot as t he Lower Danube, and t he dust mor e un-

comf or t abl e and di r t yi ng t han any we have at home. Most

par t of t he way t he soi l i s as l i ght and sandy as t hat about

Dor ki ng, and t he t r ai ns seem t o r ai se gr eat er cl ouds of i t .

The gr eat er par t of t he j our ney was al ong t he banks

of t he Mer r i mac, a f i ne r i ver wi t h as much wat er as t he

Thames at Ki chmond, I shoul d say, but spr ead over a bed

gener al l y t wi ce as br oad. AVe saw t he Whi t e Mount ai ns

at a di st ance on our l ef t , and passed t hr ough a number of

f l our i shi ng t owns. The t hi ng t hat st r uck me most was

t he appar ent f usi on i nt o one cl ass of t he whol e communi t y.

As you know, ever y one goes i nt o t he same l ong car r i ages,

hol di ng f r om si xt y t o ei ght y peopl e. Of t hese t her e wer e

f our or of t en f i ve on our t r ai n, and I of t en passed t hr ough

t hem ( as you may do, up t he mi ddl e, wi t hout di st ur bi ng

t he passenger s, who si t i n pai r s wi t h t hei r f aces t o t he

engi ne on each si de of t he passage) , as t her e was a gr eat

deal of l ocal t r af f i c, sevent y peopl e of t en get t i ng out at a

st at i on, I t hus saw r eal l y a ver y consi der abl e number of

peopl e on t hi s f i r st day i n t he St at es, and cer t ai nl y shoul d

Page 66 of 259

have been exceedi ngl y puzzl ed t o sor t t hem i n t he br oadest

way, ei t her i nt o r i ch and poor , gent l emen or l adi es ( i n t he

132 Vacat i on Rambl es

convent i onal sense) and common peopl e, or any ot her

r adi cal di vi si on. I cer t ai nl y saw at some st at i ons chi l dr en

r unni ng about wi t hout shoes, and wor kmen i n as di r t y

bl ouses as t hose of Eur ope ; but i n t he t r ai ns t hey wer e

al l wel l dr essed, qui et , sel f - r espect i ng peopl e, wi t hout any

pr et ence t o pol i sh, or any appr oach t o vul gar i t y. The

bad t ast e i n women' s dr ess, whi ch I am t ol d t o expect

el sewher e, does not cer t ai nl y pr evai l i n New Engl and,

Al l t he women wor e neat shor t dr esses, wi t h moder at e

t r i mmi ngs accor di ng t o t ast e, but I di d not see an ex -

t r avagant gar ment or , I am bound t o add, a r eal l y pr et t y

one al ong t he whol e l i ne. On t he whol e I t hought t he

women as good l ooki ng as any I have ever t r avel l ed

amongst , but pal er and sadder , or at any r at e qui et er , t han

a l i ke number of Engl i shwomen. Once or t wi ce men i n

st ove- pi pe hat s ( t he or di nar y t i l e of so- cal l ed ci vi l i sat i on) ,

and wear i ng per haps bet t er cl ot h and whi t er l i nen t han

t he aver age, got i n, but not one whom you woul d have

pi cked out as a per son br ed and br ought up i n a di f f er ent

way, and occupyi ng a st at i on above or apar t f r om t he

r est , as you see i n ever y t r ai n i n Engl and. I t may have

been chance, but cer t ai nl y i t was st ar t l i ng. Then anot her

sur pr i se. They ar e cer t ai nl y t he l east demonst r at i ve

peopl e so f ar as st r anger s ar e concer ned t hat I have ever

been amongst . I had t he pr evai l i ng i dea t hat a Yankee

was a not e of i nt er r ogat i on wal ki ng about t he wor l d, and

besi des cr avi ng f or al l sor t s of i nf or mat i on about you, was

al ways r eady t o i mpar t t o you t he par t i cul ar s of hi s own

bi r t h, par ent age, and educat i on, and hi s opi ni on on ever y -

t hi ng, " f r om Adam' s f al l t o Hul dy' s bonnet . " Wel l , I l ef t

our par t y pur posel y sever al t i mes on t he j our ney t o t r y

t he exper i ment of si t t i ng on one of t he smal l seat s car r y -

i ng t wo onl y wi t h a Yankee. I n not one si ngl e case di d

ei t her of t hose I sat by say a si ngl e wor d t o me, and when

I commenced t hey j ust answer ed my quest i on ver y ci vi l l y

and r el apsed i nt o t ot al si l ence. I may add t hat t hi s f i r st

exper i ence has been conf i r med si nce, bot h i n st r eet and

r ai l way cai ' s.

Vacat i on Rambl es 133

We got t o Bost on at about seven, and t hen had our

f i r st exper i ence of t he pr i ce of t hi ngs her e. I t i s onl y f our

mi l es out t o Lowel l ' s, who l i ves on t he ot her si de of

Cambr i dge, but we wer e obl i ged t o pay f i ve dol l ar s f or a

car r i age t o get out t her e. We coul d get not hi ng but a

gr eat handsome f ami l y coach wi t h t wo hor ses, and i n t hat ,

accor di ngl y, out we l umber ed. Cambr i dge i s a ver y pr et t y

subur b of Bost on, t he cent r e poi nt of i t bei ng Har var d

Col l ege, consi st i ng of f our or f i ve l ar ge bl ocks of r ed br i ck

bui l di ng and a st one chapel , st andi ng i n t he mi dst of some

f i ne t r ees. El mwood Avenue i n whi ch Lowel l l i ves i s

about hal f a mi l e beyond t he Col l ege — a br oad r oad

shaded on bot h si des by r ows of t r ees pl ant ed as i n t he

Boul evar ds, as i ndeed i s done al ong al l t he r oads. The

Page 67 of 259

Pr of essor ' s house i s a good, r oomy, wooden one st andi ng i n

t he mi dst of some t hi r t y acr es of hi s own l and, on whi ch

st and many good t r ees, and especi al l y some pr e- r evol ut i on-

ar y Engl i sh el ms of whi ch he i s ver y pr oud. He was

si t t i ng on t he pi azza of t he house wi t h hi s wi f e and

Hol mes' br ot her , t aki ng a pi pe and not t he l east expect i ng

us. The I r i sh mai d t ol d us t o " si t r i ght down " whi l e she

went t o f et ch hi m. I n a mi nut e he and hi s wi f e came

and put us at our ease, expl ai ni ng t hat no l et t er had ever

come si nce we had l anded. Mabel was away at t he sea

f or a f ew days.

El mwood Avenue, Cambr i dge,

Zl st August 1870.

1 managed wi t h some di f f i cul t y and scr ambl e t o get oi l '

a l et t er t o you by yest er day' s post , whi ch ought t o go by

st eamer f r om New Yor k t o- day, br i ngi ng my nar r at i ve up

t o our ar r i val her e. We f ound Lowel l on hi s ver andah

wi t h hi s wi f e and f r i end, and sat t her e t al ki ng t i l l t en.

I am not t he l east di sappoi nt ed wi t h hi m, Henr y Cowper

not wi t hst andi ng. I have never met a mor e agr eeabl e

t al ker , and hi s ki ndness t o me i s qui t e unbounded. Then

he has not a gr ai n of vani t y i n hi s composi t i on, but i s as

si mpl e and t r ut hf ul as t he best ki nd of boy. The house

134 Vacat i on Rambl es

i s a wooden one, as f our - f i f t hs of t he houses i n New

Engl and ar e. I t i s r oomy, ai r y, and f ur ni shed wi t h

quai nt ol d heavy pi eces, bur eaus l i ke our s, and sol i d

heavy l i t t l e mahogany t abl es, al l dat i ng f r om t he l ast

cent ur y. The pl at e i n t he same way i s al l of t he Queen

Anne shape, l i ke your l i t t l e t ea- ser vi ce and my gr and-

mot her ' s mi l k j ugs and t ea- pot s whi ch Geor ge has. The

pl ai nness and si mpl i ci t y of t he l i vi ng, t oo, i s most at -

t r act i ve. We br eakf ast at 8. 30, begi nni ng wi t h por r i dge,

and f ol l owi ng up wi t h eggs, some hot di sh, cor n cakes,

t oast and f r ui t . Then t her e i s no r egul ar meal t i l l si x — a

t er r i bl y l at e and f ashi onabl e di nner hour her e, as t he pr e-

val ent hour i s t wo or t hr ee — and af t er war ds we have a cup

of cof f ee and cr acker s ( good pl ai n bi scui t s) and a gl ass of

t oddy at t en. Mi ss Mabel and ot her s have gi ven us a

desper at e i dea of t he di f f i cul t i es as t o ser vi ce, but t hey

cer t ai nl y do not exi st i n t hi s est abl i shment j ust now. The

pr i nci pal ser vant t hat we see i s an I r i sh gi r l , Rose by

name, who r emi nds me of one of Mr s. Camer on' s ser vant s

except t hat she i s f ar mor e di l i gent . The i ngeni ous way

i n whi ch she hi d away al l my war dr obe i n t he ampl e

cupboar ds and r ecesses of t he bur eau i n my r oom was a

per f ect caut i on, and she whi sks away my t hi ngs and get s

t hem beaut i f ul l y washed, whol l y r ef usi ng t o al l ow me t o

pay f or t hem. The par l our - mai d i s a l i t t l e, sl i ght , l adyl i ke

gi r l , who cer t ai nl y i s not a f i r st - r at e wai t er , but t hen t her e

i s no need of one. The di nner i s conf i ned t o one t hi ng at

a t i me — soup, somet i mes f i sh, a j oi nt , or chi ckens, and a

sweet . The Pr of essor opens hi s own wi ne at t he t abl e

and passes i t r ound, and ver y good i t i s, but one scar cel y

needs i t i n t hi s cl i mat e. A cook whose acquai nt ance I

have al so made, and an I r i shman who has been t hi r t y year s

on t he pl ace i n a r oomy cot t age, and at t ends t o t he cows,

gar den, and f ar m of t hi r t y acr es, compl et e t he est abl i sh-

Page 68 of 259

ment . Mr s. Lowel l , who i s a ver y ni ce, qui et , and cl ever

woman, i s ver y f ond of f l ower s, and manages t o keep a

f ew beds goi ng about t he house, and t her e ar e a number

of ver y f i ne t r ees, so t hat t hough t her e i s no pr et ence t o

Vacat i on Rambl es 135

t he neat ness and f i ni sh of Engl i sh gr ounds and gar den,

t he pl ace has a t hor oughl y homel y, cul t i vat ed at mospher e

and l ook whi ch i s ver y at t r act i ve, and t he whol e t own of

Cambr i dge seems t o be made up of j ust such houses. W e

have l ost no t i me i n l i oni si ng men and pl aces. On

Thur sday we t ook t he car i nt o Bost on and ascended t he

monument on Bunker ' s Hi l l , 290 st eps up a dar k spi r al

st ai r case. Lowel l had never been up i t bef or e, nor i ndeed

has any nat i ve as f ar as I can f i nd out . The vi ew at

t he t op r epays you t hor oughl y f or t he gr i nd wi t h t he

t her momet er at ei ght y i n t he shade. Bost on Har bour ,

wher e t he t ea was t hr own out of t he Engl i sh shi ps i n 1775,

and t he whol e t own and subur bs l i e bel ow you l i ke a map,

and ar e ver y st r i ki ng. Af t er descendi ng we hunt ed up a

number of peopl e, i ncl udi ng young Hol mes, our Col onel ,

who was as char mi ng as ever , absor bed i n hi s l aw at

whi ch he i s doi ng f amousl y, and r esol ved i n hi s f i r st hol i day

t o r evi si t Engl and. He came out t o di ne, and f r at er ni sed

i mmensel y wi t h R , and wi t h hi m a young Howel l s, t he

edi t or of t he At l ant i c Mont hl y, whom Conway had br ought

t o our house year s ago, and I had ent i r el y f or got t en.

However he i s a ver y ni ce f el l ow, and I don' t t hi nk I

bet r ayed my obl i vi ousness. Next day, Fr i day, we had a

l ong count r y dr i ve i n t he mor ni ng t hr ough br oad avenues

l i ned wi t h t hr ee f asci nat i ng wooden houses, each st andi ng

wi t h pl ent y of el bow- r oom i n i t s own gr ounds, up t o a

wooded hi l l f r om whi ch we got a spl endi d vi ew of t he ci t y.

Then I went i nt o Bost on and cal l ed on t he Aut ocr at of

t he Br eakf ast Tabl e, who i s one of t he best t al ker s I ever

met , and qui t e wor t hy t o be t he Col onel ' s f at her . He i s

one of Mot l ey' s ol dest f r i ends, and deepl y gr i eved, as al l

good men her e, at hi s r ecal l . Hi s chi ef t al k was of hi s

memor i es of hi s Engl i sh vi si t s, and t he f ol k he met , and

so I f i nd i t wi t h al l t he best men and women her e.

Not wi t hst andi ng t he bi t t er ness whi ch our pr ess cr eat ed

dur i ng t he war , I am convi nced t hat wi t h a ver y l i t t l e

t act and j udi ci ous handl i ng on our si de t he i nt er -

nat i onal r el at i ons may be easi l y made al l we can wi sh

136 Vacat i on Rambl es

as f ar as New Engl and i s concer ned. Af t er war ds I

saunt er ed about t he t own, l ooki ng at some good st at ues

i n t hei r par k ( Bost on Common) , and l et t i ng t he pl ace si nk

i nt o me. The Common i s about t he si ze, I shoul d say, of

Gr een Par k, but of a r egul ar shape. I t l i es on t he si de

of a hi l l at t he t op of whi ch ar e t he St at e House and

ot her publ i c bui l di ngs and pr i vat e houses. I t i s wel l

wooded wi t h f i ne Amer i can and Engl i sh el ms ( pr e- r evol u-

t i onar y, t hey say, but I don' t bel i eve i t . They ar e not

used t o our el ms, and I doubt whet her any of t hese ar e

Page 69 of 259

100 year s ol d) on t he upper par t and al ong t he si des;

t he mi ddl e i s a gr eat pl aygr ound f or t he boys, who ar e

di l i gent t her e al l day at base- bal l , our r ounder s, whi ch

I shoul d t hi nk must spoi l t he enj oyment of t he pl ace f or

l adi es and chi l dr en. However t hey can al ways t ake t o

t he pr et t y gar dens at t he l ower end, i n whi ch i s a ver y

f i ne equest r i an st at ue of Washi ngt on, and one of Ever et t

by St or y, by no means f i ne i n my opi ni on. How shoul d

i t be, when he i nsi st ed on bei ng t aken wi t h hi s ar m r i ght up

i n t he ai r , hi s f avour i t e at t i t ude i n speaki ng, and st ands

up i n t hat at t i t ude i n or di nar y but t oned f r ock coat and

t r ouser s % Ever et t has not been a t r ust wor t hy publ i c man

t o my mi nd, and i s si mpl y not hi ng unl ess i t i s an or at or ,

and I can' t say I t hi nk i t wi se t o put hi m up t her e on

t he pal pabl e st ump. But we have made so many mi s-

t akes i n our publ i c st at ues t hat I suppose i t must r un i n

t he bl ood. The best houses i n t he t own, r eal l y char mi ng

r esi dences, l i ne t he t wo si des and t op of t he Common,

and f i ne st or es t he bot t om. I have never seen a pl ace I

woul d so soon l i ve i n out of Engl and as i n one of t hese

houses l ooki ng on t o Bost on Common. The ol d busi ness

t own i s bei ng r ebui l t j ust as London — r ed br i ck t wo or

t hr ee st or y houses gi vi ng way ever ywher e t o f i ve or si x

st or i es of gr ani t e or st one. The t own has as ol d and set t l ed

a l ook and f eel i ng about i t as any I know ; but t hey have

f ew ol d bui l di ngs, and I am af r ai d ar e goi ng t o pul l down

t he most char act er i st i c, t he ol d St at e House, because i t

has ceased t o be used f or publ i c pur poses, and i t s

Vacat i on Rambl es 137

r emoval wi l l make a f i ne br oad pl ace and r el i eve t he t r af f i c

of sever al nar r ow st r eet s i n t he hear t of t he t own. I t

wi l l be a sad pi t y, and so unnecessar y her e, f or t hey

mi ght car r y i t of f bodi l y t o any ot her si t e. You know

how we have of t en hear d, and wonder ed, scar ce bel i evi ng,

of t he r ai si ng bodi l y of t he gr eat hot el s, et c. , at Chi cago.

Wel l , suddenl y, i n Bost on I came acr oss a gr eat mar ket , t hr ee

st or i es hi gh ( t he upper par t bei ng occupi ed as houses) and

1 50 or 200 f eet l ong, as bi g, say, as t hr ee houses i n Gr osvenor

Squar e, whi ch t hey wer e movi ng bodi l y back on r ol l er s so

as t o wi den t he st r eet . Ther e wer e t he wooden ways

and t he r ol l er s, and t he gr eat bl ock wi t h al l i t s mar ket i ng

and l i vi ng i nhabi t ant s l yi ng on t hem, and al r eady some

t wel ve f eet on i t s j our ney. I t di d not l ook any t he wor se

f or i t s j our ney unl ess i t wer e i n t he f oundat i ons, wher e

t her e wer e a f ew pl aces whi ch had been f i l l ed up, I saw,

wi t h new br i ckwor k. The l ong pi t t wel ve f eet deep

whi ch has been l ef t bet ween t he mar ket and t he st r eet

wi l l now be t ur ned i nt o cel l ar s, over whi ch t he new

pavement wi l l pass. On t he Sat ur day we di ned wi t h t he

Sat ur day Cl ub at 2. 30 P. M. , wher e wer e al l t he New

Engl and not abl es now i n t own. I sat on t he r i ght of

Sumner , t he St at e Senat or , who was i n t he chai r , wi t h

Bout wel l , t he Secr et ar y of t he Tr easur y, on my r i ght , and

Emer son on t he ot her si de of Sumner . So you may f ancy

how I enj oyed t he si t t i ng. Emer son i s per f ect l y del i ght f ul :

si mpl e, wi se, and f ul l of humour and sunshi ne. The

number of good Yankee st or i es I shal l br i ng back unl ess

t hey bur st me wi l l be a caut i on. For bes, a gr eat Bost on

mer chant who owns an i sl and sevent y- t wo mi l es l ong of f

t he coast , cl ose t o Nant ucket and Cape Cod, whi ch you

Page 70 of 259

wi l l f i nd i n t he map, came up and cl ai med t o have seen

me f or f i ve mi nut es when I had t he smal l - pox i n 18G. ' J.

He knows J wel l , and i nsi st ed on car r yi ng us of t * t o

hi s i sl and t hat ni ght , t hat we mi ght at t end a huge camp-

meet i ng on a nei ghbour i ng i sl and on Sunday. So he

dr ove up her e wi t h us and we packed — t he dear Pr of essor

agr eei ng t hat we ought t o do i t — went down si xt y mi l es by

138 Vacat i on Rambl es

r ai l , sl ept on hi s yacht , and f ound our sel ves i n t he

mor ni ng at hi s whar f on t he i sl and. Your second l et t er

came t o hand f r om Cr omer when we r et ur ned her e, and

has as usual l i ght ed up my l i f e.

Cambr i dge, 2nd Sept ember 1870.

We ar e of f t hi s af t er noou f or Newpor t on our way t o New

Yor k, and so sout h and west . The expr ess man wi l l be

her e di r ect l y f or my l uggage, whi ch wi l l be a l i t t l e

cur t ai l ed, as t hese dear ki nd peopl e i nsi st on our r et ur ni ng,

and l eavi ng al l we don' t want i n our r ooms. So I shal l

dr op my beaver , l eavi ng i t wi t h t he most ser i ous admoni t i ons

i n t he char ge of Rose, t he I r i sh gi r l , who i s a char act er . I wi l l

now t ake up t he t hr ead of my st or y, mer el y r emar ki ng t hat

what you seem t o t hi nk a dul l cat al ogue of smal l doi ngs

at a smal l wat er i ng- pl ace i s qui t e unspeakabl y del i ght f ul

t o me away her e. On t he whar f at Nashont I sl and we

f ound t he t wo young F s, t he el der a col onel i n t he

war , and f i ve mont hs a pr i soner i n t he Sout h, t he younger ,

Mal col m, j ust l ef t col l ege. I never saw t wo f i ner young

men, bot h of t hem model s of st r engt h. They had come

down t o meet us and bat he, so we st opped and had a

spl endi d header of f t he whar f and a swi m i n t he bay, af t er

car ef ul i nqui r i es by E, as t o shar ks, t o whi ch young

F r epl i ed wi t h a t wi nkl e i n hi s eye, t hat t hey di dn' t

l ose many f r i ends t hat way. We wal ked up t o t he house

af t er our di p, a l ar ge wooden bui l di ng, wi t h deep ver andahs

and sun- bl i nds, f ur ni shed qui t e pl ai nl y, even r oughl y, but

capabl e of hol di ng near l y any number of peopl e. We

wer e about ei ght een at br eakf ast : Mr s. F a handsome,

cl ever , el der l y l ady, bor n a Quaker , and wi t h t hei r char m

of manner , who made t ea f or t he par t y, and on whose r i ght

I sat . Opposi t e her was her husband wi t h Mr s. L— — ,

t he young wi dow of Lowel l ' s nephew Char l es, t he f amous

sol di er , on hi s l ef t , and t her ef or e opposi t e me. On my

r i ght , a young woman, a cousi n of t he F s, a Mr s.

P , whose husband sat down t owar ds t he end of t he

Page 71 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 39

t abl e, t he manager of a West er n r ai l way, who has gi ven

ns f r ee passes over hi s l i ne. Col onel F , t he el dest

son, was Lowel l ' s maj or , and ser ved wi t h di st i nct i on i n t he

war , i n whi ch he was t aken pr i soner , and spent f i ve mont hs

i n Sout her n pr i sons ; hi s wi f e, a buxom young woman

wi t h ver y good eyes, i s Emer son' s daught er , and her br ot her ,

a br i ght boy of t went y- t wo or t went y- t hr ee, was near me.

Ther e wer e t wo daught er s of t he f ami l y, and t wo ot her

gi r l s and sever al boys, al l pl easant and easy i n hand ; but

t he gem of t he par t y was t he young wi dow. She i s not

act ual l y pr et t y, but wi t h a f ace f ul l of t he nobl eness of

sor r ow, whi ch has done i t s wor k. I have sel dom been

mor e t ouched t han i n wat chi ng her gent l e, cheer f ul ways,

and her sympat hy wi t h al l t he br i ght l i f e ar ound her .

Si nce t he war , i n whi ch her husband and onl y br ot her

R. S ( who commanded t he f i r st col our ed r egi ment

f r om Massachuset t s, and was bur i ed under hi s negr oes at

For t Wagner ) wer e ki l l ed, she has devot ed her sel f t o t he

Fr eedmen, and i s Honor ar y Secr et ar y t o t he Soci et y f or

educat i ng t hem. Af t er br eakf ast we st ar t ed i n t he yacht

f or t he nei ghbour i ng i sl and, on whi ch t he gr eat Met hodi st

camp- meet i ng was goi ng on. Thi s Sunday was t he gr eat

day. They have occupi ed t hi s i sl and f or some year s, and

have bui l t t her e a whol e t own of pr et t y l i t t l e wooden

houses l i ke bi g Chi nese t oys, dot t ed about amongst t he

t r ees. Most of t hem consi st of onl y one l ong r oom,

di vi ded by cur t ai ns i n t he mi ddl e. The f r ont hal f opens

t o t he st r eet , but r ai sed one st ep above i t i s t he si t t i ng-

r oom, and t he i nmat es si ce} ) i n t he back, behi nd t he

cur t ai ns. A f ew houses have a st or y above ; but F

bought a l ot of phot ogr aphs f or us, whi ch wi l l show you

t he st yl e of house bet t er t han a page of descr i pt i on. Ther e

wer e l i t er al l y t housands of peopl e on t he i sl and, upwar ds

of t wo t housand col l ect ed i n a huge ci r cul ar t ent i n t he

mi ddl e of t he houses, wher e a pr eacher was shout i ng t o

t hem. We sat on t he ski r t s of t he congr egat i on and

l i st ened f or some t i me, but as he was onl y t al ki ng wi l dl y

about Nebuddah, Posi t i vi sm, Theodor e Par ker , and ot her

140 Vacat i on Rambl es

her esi es and her et i cs, I was not edi f i ed, and got no wor shi p

t i l l he had done, when we al l st ood up and sang t he

doxol ogy, whi ch was ver y i mpr essi ve. I was much di s-

appoi nt ed at t he gat her i ng i n a r el i gi ous poi nt of vi ew.

I t was a r ar e chance f or a man wi t h a l i vi ng wor d i n hi m —

t hose t housands of decent , sober , at t ent i ve New Engl and

men and women. They t ol d me t hat i n t he eveni ng i t

woul d be much mor e i nt er est i ng, when t her e woul d be

gr eat si ngi ng of hymns, and many per sons woul d t el l how

t hey came t o exper i ence r el i gi on as t hey cal l i t ; but we

Page 72 of 259

coul d not st ay f or t hi s. The meet i ng l ast s f or weeks, and

i s i n f act an excuse f or t he gat her i ng at a pr et t y sea- pl ace

i n t he ear l y aut umn of a number of good f ol k who woul d

t hi nk t he or di nar y wat er i ng- pl aces ungodl y, but have a

l ongi ng f or a br eak i n t hei r or di nar y col our l ess l i ves. We

sai l ed back i n t i me f or ear l y di nner , meet i ng on t he

way huge st eamer s packed wi t h passenger s f or t he camp-

meet i ng, t i l l t hey wer e t op heavy. Next day we spent i n

f i shi ng of f t he r ocks f or bl ue- f i sh, and i n a beaut i f ul l i t t l e

l ake of t hr ee- quar t er s of a mi l e l ong ( one of sever al i n t he

i sl and) f or bass. I caught a bl ue f i sh of ni ne l bs. , t he

bi ggest and st r ongest I have ever caught , al so t he onl y

bass whi ch was t aken ; so I nat ur al l y cr owed l oudl y. The

i sl and hour s ar e : br eakf ast , ei ght o' cl ock or hal f - past ei ght ;

di nner , t wo or t hr ee ; t ea, wi t h col d meat , hal f - past si x or

seven. Af t er t ea on bot h eveni ngs we got i nt o f ul l swi ng

on t he war . I f ound Mr . F and hi s wi f e deepl y

gr i eved and pr ej udi ced as t o our conduct , our f eel i ng t o

t hem as a nat i on, et c. , and set mysel f t o wor k har d t o

r emove al l t hi s as f ar as I coul d. As he i s a ver y ener get i c

and i nf l uent i al man i t i s wor t h t aki ng any amount of

t r oubl e about , and I t hi nk I succeeded. I n t he eveni ngs

t he young f ol k sang a number of t he war songs, sever al

composed by or f or t he negr o sol di er s, goi ng t o f amous

ai r s, and f ul l of humour and pat hos. The Mar ch

t hr ough Geor gi a i s ver y spi r i t ed, and a ver si on of

t he " John Br own" Mar ch, whi ch seems t o have super -

seded " We' l l hang Jef Davi es, " et c. , exceedi ngl y t ouch-

Vacat i on Rambl es 141

i ng — at l east I know i t was so t o me, as al l t he young

f ol k sang —

He hat h sounded f or t h t he t r umpet t hat shal l never cal l r et r eat .

He i s si f t i ng out t he soul s of men bef or e Hi s j udgment seat :

Be swi f t , my soul , t o wel come Hi m ! be j ubi l ant , my f eet .

I n t he beaut y of t he l i l i es, Chr i st was bor n acr oss t he sea,

Wi t h a gl or y i n Hi s bosom t hat t r ansf i gur es you and me.

As he di ed t o make men hol y, l et us di e t o make t hem f r ee.

Our God i s mar chi ng or .

' ©

To t hi nk of what t hat sweet young woman had gone

t hr ough ( t he news of her husband' s deat h at t he head of

hi s br i gade, was r ead by her i n a newspaper ) , and t o see

her si t t i ng t her e cal ml y and t r yi ng t o j oi n i n t he chor us,

was cr ui t e t oo much f or me. However , nobody not i ced my

emot i on. Our l ast mor ni ng, Tuesday, was spent i n a

f amous wi l d r i de over t he i sl and. Af t er br eakf ast we

f ound seven ver y excel l ent r i di ng hor ses ( t hr ee wi t h si de-

saddl es) at t he door . At home t her e woul d have been

t hr ee gr ooms, her e each hor se has a l eat her n st r ap f i xed t o

t he bi t , whi ch you j ust buckl e r ound hi s neck t i l l you

Page 73 of 259

want t o st op, and t hen f ast en i t t o t he near est t r ee or

l amp- post . The whol e t ur n- out i s of cour se r ough, but I

don' t wi sh t o see ni cer l adi es' hacks t han t he t hr ee whi ch

t he t wo Mi ss F s and Mr s. P r ode. AVe sai l ed

back i n t he yacht t o anot her l i t t l e por t , a f ew mi l es nor t h

of New Bedf or d, F havi ng pr ovi ded us as a par t i ng

pr esent wi t h f r ee passes over al most al l t he West er n r ai l -

ways, whi ch wi l l save me at l east

20 I s houl d t hi nk .

He i s Chai r man of s ev er al , and s o c an do i t wi t hout any

t r oubl e. We f ound t he dear Lowel l s ex pec t i ng us , and

my s ec ond l et t er al s o wai t i ng, s o y ou may t hi nk t hat

I had a j oy f ul ev eni ng. Nex t day , Wednes day , we

dr ov e t o Conc or d t o di ne wi t h J udge Hoar , t he l at e

At t or ney - Gener al of t he Uni t ed St at es , a v er y abl e, f i ne

f el l ow. We pas s ed ov er c l as s i c gr ound, t he v er y r oad

al ong whi c h t he Engl i s h t r oops mar c hed i n Apr i l 1776

t o des t r oy t he s t or es , when t he f i r s t c ol l i s i on of t he War

142 Vac at i on Rambl es

of I ndependenc e t ook pl ac e at Conc or d Br i dge and i n

t he v i l l age of Lex i ngt on. You may per haps r emember

i n t he s ec ond s er i es of t he Bi gl ow Paper s " Sumt hi n' i n

t he Pas t or al Li ne, " i n whi c h ol d Conc or d Br i dge and t he

monument whi c h has been put up t o c ommemor at e t he

f i ght , t al k t oget her ov er t he Tr ent af f ai r . The J udge' s

t wo s ons , v er y ni c e y oung f el l ows , pul l ed us up Con-

cor d Ri v er , whi c h r uns at t he bot t om of t hei r gar den,

t o t he s pot , and on t he way ( whi c h i s v er y pr et t y ) Av e s aw

l ot s of t or t oi s es s i t t i ng and bas k i ng on t he s t ones , and

poppi ng i n when we appr oac hed, and hear d a l ot of c api t al

Yank ee s t or i es f r om t he J udge. Di nner at t hr ee ; Emer -

son c ame, and t her e wer e t wo Mi s s H— — s , and a Mi s s

S , a hands ome gi r l , s i s t er of t he bes t oar i n t he

Har v ar d boat of l as t y ear . I enj oy ed t he di nner and

smok e af t er war ds i mmens el y , and am at l as t qui t e s ur e

t hat I am doi ng s ome good wi t h s ome of t hes e men, al l of

whom ar e i nf l uent i al , and mos t of t hem s adl y pr ej udi c ed

agai ns t us s t i l l as a nat i on. For my s el f i t i s qui t e i m-

pos s i bl e t o ex pr es s t hei r k i ndnes s . They s eem as i f t hey

can nev er do enough f or me. When we got bac k t o

Cambr i dge, we f ound Mi s s M- and Dr . Lowel l , br ot her

t o J ames , an Engl i s h c l er gy man, and qui t e c har mi ng t oo

i n hi s way .

New Yor k .

I t hi nk I hav e t ol d y ou al r eady t he s or t of r oy al

pr ogr es s I am mak i ng. Some pr i nc i pal c i t i z en al way s

comes t o t he s t at i on t o meet us i n hi s c ar r i age, book s our

l uggage by t he ex pr es s ( an admi r abl e i ns t i t ut i on whi c h

sav es y ou al l t he t r oubl e wi t h l nggage) , dr i v es us up t o

hi s hous e, l odges us i n t he bes t r ooms , has al l t he bes t

f ol k s i n t he nei ghbour hood t o meet us at br eak f as t , di nner ,

Page 74 of 259

t ea, t ak es us t o t he s i ght s of t he nei ghbour hood, k eeps al l

hi s s er v ant s out of s i ght when we ar e goi ng, s o t hat we

can' t gi v e any one a penny or ev en pay our was hi ng bi l l s ,

and f i nal l y s ends us and our l uggage down t o t he nex t

boat or s t eamer , when we ar e book ed al r eady pr obabl y

Vac at i on Rambl es 143

by a new f r i end. Cer t ai nl y I nev er s aw, hear d of , or

coul d i magi ne any t hi ng l i k e t he hos pi t al i t y . I t i s no

doubt i n s ome degr ee, and i n i ndi v i dual c as es , owi ng t o

t he par t I t ook dur i ng t he war i n Engl and, but Democ r at s

as wel l as Republ i c ans hav e been amongs t our war mes t

hos t s ; i n f ac t , I am f ai r l y puz z l ed, and al l ow t he t i de at

l as t t o c ar r y me al ong, f l oat i ng down i t and enj oy i ng

ev er y t hi ng as wel l as I c an. I t hi nk i n my l as t I got t o

our s t ar t f r om Bos t on. No ! was i t 1 At any r at e, I

wr ot e about our day at Conc or d, I k now, as t o whi c h I

shal l hav e t o t el l y ou mor e when we meet . Af t er we

got home Mi s s Mabel r us hed ups t ai r s , got i nt o her phot o-

gr aphi ng dr es s , t he quai nt es t t ur n- out y ou c an c onc ei v e,

and c ommenc ed a s er i es of gr oups , et c . , whi c h y ou s hal l

hav e s pec i mens of when I get bac k . She i s endl es s f un ;

has t he mos t ar c h way of t al k i ng t o her f at her as

" s i r " ev er y now and t hen • i s c har mi ng wi t h her s t ep-

mot her ; and al t oget her as br i ght a bi t of l i f e about a

hous e as y ou woul d meet on a s ummer ' s day . I par t ed

f r om Lowel l and hi s home f eel i ng t hat t he meet i ng had

been mor e t han s uc c es s f ul . For t hes e ei ght een or ni ne-

t een y ear s I hav e r ev el l ed i n hi s book s — i ndeed, hav e got

so muc h f r om t hem and l ear ned t o l ov e t he par ent of

t hem s o wel l , as I i magi ned hi m, t hat f I al mos t f ear ed t he

meet i ng, l es t pl eas ant i l l us i ons s houl d be br ok en. I f ound

hi m muc h bet t er t han hi s book s . We had a pl eas ant

t hr ee hour s ' r ai l t o Newpor t , f i ndi ng Mr . Fi el d, a Phi l a-

del phi an bank er , at t he s t at i on wi t h hi s c ar r i age. We

wer e f r i ends at onc e, f or he i s a f amous , f r ank , good-

l ook i ng, J ohn Bul l i s h man of t he wor l d, who has t r av el l ed

al l ov er Eur ope and r et ai ned hi s new wor l d s i mpl i c i t y

and hear t i nes s . He dr ov e us al l r ound t he f as hi onabl e

wat er i ng- pl ac e, t he des c r i pt i on of whi c h I mus t pos t pone

or I nev er s hal l get t hr ough ( as we s ay her e) . Hi s

cot t age, as he c al l s i t , i n ac c or danc e wi t h t he f as hi on

her e, i s a c har mi ng v i l l a, on t he mos t s out her n poi nt of

Newpor t , c l os e t o t he r oc k s on whi c h t he gr and At l ant i c

r ol l was beat i ng magni f i c ent l y as we dr ov e up.

144 Vac at i on Rambl es

Sat ur day mor ni ng a l ot of men c ame t o br eak f as t ,

i nc l udi ng Col onel H , t he of f i c er who had been t he

f i r s t t o v ol unt eer t o t ak e c ommand of negr oes i n Vi r gi ni a,

bef or e t he New Engl and St at es ev en began mus t er i ng

t hem. I was del i ght ed t o mak e hi s ac quai nt anc e, as I

knew hi s name i n my ant i - s l av er y s t andar d as a r eal ,

adv anc ed Radi c al , and I was anx i ous t o r eal i s e t hat t y pe

of Yank ee of whi c h I had onl y s een Ll oy d Gar r i s on i n

Engl and. He was v er y f as c i nat i ng t o my mi nd, and t he

Page 75 of 259

mos t r ef i ned man i n manner s and l ook I hav e y et met , but

I s houl d s ay dec i dedl y a c r ac k ed f el l ow i n t he good s ens e.

We adj our ned t o t he s pout i ng r oc k , j us t at t he poi nt

wher e t he s ur f was beat i ng gl or i ous l y , and as I c ont i nued

t al k i ng wi t h H , of c our s e I got a duc k i ng by get t i ng

t oo near t hi s r oc k , whi c h i s hol l ow under neat h, s o t hat i t

sends a s pout of wat er up l i k e a huge whal e s ome s ec ond

or t wo af t er t he br eak er hi t s i t . The s i ght was s uper b,

and wel l wor t h t he pay ment of an uns t ar c hed wai s t c oat

and s hi r t . We got home, and I c hanged at 11. 30 or

t her eabout s , and when I c ame i n t o dr es s f or di nner t her e

was my wai s t c oat , was hed and s t ar c hed, on t he bed. Mr s .

Fi el d had hear d me s ay i n j ok e t hat I s houl d be out of

whi t e wai s t c oat s . We went t o t he Epi s c opal Chur c h on

Sunday mor ni ng and had a good s er mon of a quar t er of

an hour , s i t t i ng i n t he pew of an ac quai nt anc e of t he

pr ev i ous day , a Mr s . H of New Yor k , who dr ov e us

about i n her hands ome c ar r i age, and i ns i s t ed on gi v i ng me

t wo book s — one bei ng ex t r ac t s f r om Li nc ol n' s Speec hes and

Let t er s , whi c h I am v er y gl ad t o hav e. I n t he ev eni ng we

wer e s ent down t o t he pi er , wher e we wer e pi c k ed up by

t he mos t magni f i c ent s t eamer ev er s een i n t he wor l d, I

shoul d t hi nk , and by s i x nex t mor ni ng wer e r unni ng

al ong t he nor t h r i v er , one of t he many ent r anc es by s ea

t o New Yor k har bour . The appr oac hes t o t he c i t y ar e

super b, but t he f i r s t v i ew of i t di s appoi nt ed me, t he

bui l di ngs al ong t he wat er - s i de bei ng f or t he mos t par t

poor and al mos t mean. We f ound Hewi t t ' s c ar r i age

wai t i ng, he bei ng out of t own f or hi s Sunday , and dr ov e

Vac at i on Rambl es 145

up t hr ough Br oadway and Four t h Av enue t o hi s hous e,

whi c h i s a s pl endi d r oomy one, bel ongi ng t o hi s f at her - i n-

l aw, Mr . Cooper . The dear ol d gent l eman, a hear t y

vet er an of s ev ent y - ni ne, i s t he f ounder of t he Cooper ' s

I ns t i t ut e, a wor k i ng- man' s c ol l ege on a l ar ge s c al e. He

has s pent near l y a mi l l i on dol l ar s upon i t , and i t i s

cer t ai nl y t he bes t i ns t i t ut i on of t he k i nd I hav e ev er

seen. He i s one of t he mos t gui l el es s and s weet es t of

ol d men, and I s hal l hav e muc h t o t el l y ou of hi m. Mr .

Hewi t t , my f r i end, who i s i n par t ner s hi p wi t h hi m, and

hi s wi f e and f ami l y l i v e wi t h t he ol d gent l eman. Her e I

f ound f r ee admi s s i on t o t he f our bes t c l ubs i n New Yor k —

t he Uni on League, t he Cent ur y , and ev en t he Manhat t an,

a democ r at c l ub of whi c h Hewi t t i s a di s t i ngui s hed mem-

ber . The ni c e br i s k woman i n t he hous e gav e us an

ex c el l ent br eak f as t , and we s t ar t ed f or t he t own about

el ev en. One of t he f i r s t pl ac es I went t o was Eoebuc k ' s

st or e, wher e I f ound hi m v er y f l our i s hi ng. But I c an' t

go on t o c at al ogue our doi ngs or s han' t get t hi s of f . As

ver y f ew f ol k ar e i n New Yor k , we ar e of f t o- day t o Wes t

Poi nt up t he Huds on, wher e we s t ay f or a mi l i t ar y bal l

t o- mor r ow ni ght ; on Fr i day we get t o Ni agar a, and t hen

away wes t , c er t ai nl y as f ar as Omaha, t o s ee pr ai r i es , et c . ,

and pos s i bl y t o San Fr anc i s c o. We mus t be bac k her e

or i n New Engl and on t he 1s t of Oc t ober , on t he 6t h i s

t he Har v ar d Memor i al c er emony , l ay i ng t he f i r s t s t one

Page 76 of 259

of t hei r memor i al bui l di ng, on t he 11t h I am i n f or an

addr ess, and af t er t hat shal l set my f ace homewar ds. I

have l ooked at mysel f i n t he gl ass at your r equest and

bel i eve I l ook f abul ous.

Gar r i son' s Landi ng, opposi t e West Poi nt ,

Fr i day, 9t h Sept ember 1870.

I al r eady l ook wi st f ul l y al ong t he pages of my pocket -

book whi ch i nt er vene bet ween t hi s and t he begi nni ng of

November , and f eel ver y l i ke bol t i ng home i nst ead of

goi ng west . The onl y moment s I have f or wr i t i ng ar e

L

146 Vacat i on Rambl es

ear l y ( i t i s now 6. 30) or af t er I come up t o bed, as t he

dear , good f ol k pr ovi de occupat i on f or al l t he r est of t he

t i me. Wel l , we got t o New Yor k on Monday mor ni ng

by t he East Ei ver , and l ef t i t on Wednesday af t er noon by

t he Hudson, havi ng, I t hi nk, seen i t super f i ci al l y, so t hat

I shoul d r et ai n a cl ear i dea of i t i f I never saw i t agai n.

We di ned on Monday at t he Uni on League Cl ub, Tuesday

at t he Manhat t an, goi ng i n af t er war ds t o t he Cent ur y —

al l t hr ee cl ubs as compl et e, I t hi nk, as our s and open

t o st r anger s i n ever y cor ner . We l ef t New Yor k on

Wednesday af t er noon wi t h Mr . , Chai r man of t he

I l l i noi s Cent r al Eai l way, who has t hi s del i ci ous pl ace on

t he sl ope of t he mount ai n opposi t e West Poi nt . As

usual t her e wer e car r i ages at t he pi er , and al l t r oubl e,

expense, et c. , has been t aken of f our hands. Mr s.

i s t he ni cest Yankee l ady we have seen ( except Mabel ) ,

l i ke Mr s. Goschen i n f ace and char mi ngl y appr eci at i ve.

Her husband, st aunch Amer i can, about f i f t y. The mor e

f anat i c Amer i cans t hey ar e t he mor e t hey seem t o l i ke

t o do f or me, and as I spend t he gr eat er par t of my

t i me i n showi ng t hem how mi st aken t hey must be i n

t hei r vi ews as t o Engl and, el se how i s i t t hat we di dn' t

i nt er f er e and get t o war , I f eel I am doi ng good wor k.

They t ake t o me, I can see, apar t f r om my pr ocl i vi t i es.

I am obl i ged t o gi ve up poor ol d Pam, t he mer cant i l e

communi t y of Engl and, and t he maj or i t y of t he ar i st o-

cr acy ; but when I have made a Jonah of t hese, I al ways

succeed i n br i ngi ng t hese good, si mpl e, candi d, i mpul si ve

f el l ows t o admi t t hat we di d t hem no bad t ur n i n t hei r

t r oubl es. We l eave t o- day f or Ni agar a, and dur i ng t he

next f or t ni ght I har dl y know how or when I can wr i t e.

Cl i f t on Hot el , opposi t e Ni agar a Fal l s,

\ \ i h Sept ember 1870.

I am gl ad t o f i nd t hat I shal l be abl e t o get of f t hi s

one mor e l et t er t o you by r egul ar post bef or e we pl unge

Page 77 of 259

away west f or near l y a f or t ni ght . I do so l ong f or you

Vacat i on Rambl es 147

ever y now and t hen Avhen t her e i s somet hi ng t o see whi ch

you woul d speci al l y appr eci at e, not onl y t hen as you wel l

know, but t hen speci al l y, i n t he gl or i ous r eaches of t he

Hudson near West Poi nt , f or i nst ance, wher e you have al l

t he beaut y of t he Scot ch Hi ghl ands, wi t h a hundr ed wel l -

kept r i ch men' s houses, and a monst er hot el or t wo cr own-

i ng some hi gh poi nt , — an excel l ent subst i t ut e, i n my vi ew,

f or t he r ui ned keeps of r obber bar ons on t he Rhi ne, — and

endl ess st eamer s and sl oops, wi t h t hei r whi t e sai l s and

gr eat t ows, as t hey cal l t hem, of a dozen l ar ge f l at s l ashed

t oget her and br i ngi ng down l umber and cor n f r om t he

west , passi ng up and down ; but , above al l , l ast ni ght ,

when we went under t he l i ght of a gl or i ous f ul l moon and

saw t hese mi ght y f al l s f r om above, and t hen went down

some 200 st eps, and al ong under t he over hangi ng cl i f f s, t i l l

we act ual l y got under t he end of t he hor se- shoe f al l on

t he Canadi an si de, and l ooked up and saw t he moon t hr ough

t he f al l i ng wat er . Just as we descended, an Amer i can

gent l eman and hi s daught er and an Engl i sh gi r l wi t h t hem

came up, t o whom we gave our seat s, and when we came

back t hey wer e st i l l t her e, so we t ol d t hem what we had

seen and of f er ed t o escor t t hem down. They wer e del i ght ed,

and " papa" di d not obj ect , so down we al l went , and so

we had a second t r eat behi nd t he cat ar act , and bei ng wi t h

t hese l adi es made me hor r i bl y wi shf ul t o get you t her e.

The gi r l ( Phi l adel phi an) was ver y pr et t y and si mpl e, so

I handed her over t o R , and gave my ar m t o t he

Engl i sh one. To- day we went acr oss t he f er r y ami d a

gr eat t ur bul ence of wat er s, and l ooked up at t he descend-

i ng r i ver s, t o t he Engl i sh Chur ch on t he opposi t e si de.

An Amer i can bi shop pr eached, and af t er war ds we wal ked

on Goat I sl and, above and bet ween t he t wo f al l s, and saw

such ef f ect s of r ai nbows, and l i l ac and gr een and pur pl e

and pur e whi t e sur ges, as i t i s ut t er l y i mpossi bl e t o

descr i be, but I shal l t r y t o do i t by t he hel p of phot ogr aphs

when I get back. Then we had a bat h i n t he r ush j ust

above t he Fal l s ; you have a l i t t l e r oom t hr ough whi ch a

sl i ce some f our f eet wi de of t he wat er i s al l owed t o r ush ;

148 Vacat i on Rambl es

you get i n at t he si de, i n t he back wat er , and t hen t ake

hol d of a shor t r ope f i xed cl ose above t he r ush, and l et t he

wat er s sei ze and t ear at you, whi ch i t does wi t h a vengeance,

t uggi ng as i f i t woul d car r y of f your l egs and pul l you i n

t wo i n t he mi ddl e. You can get out of i t i n a moment

by j ust sl ewi ng your sel f r ound, and t he sensat i on i s

mar vel l ousl y del i ci ous. I f or get whet her you had one of

t he bat hs at Geneva, wher e t he bl ue Rhone r ushes t hr ough

at about a t hi r d of t he pace. That i s t he onl y bat h I

ever r emember t he l east t o be compar ed t o t hi s above

Ni agar a. But l et me see, I hadn' t got f ar t her wi t h you

t han our chat eau on t he Hudson. Wel l , we l ef t i t on Fr i day

af t er br eakf ast at about ni ne o' cl ock, and t r avel l ed away

Page 78 of 259

st eadi l y wi t h onl y t went y mi nut es' st op at Al bany, wher e

we di ned, and a quar t er of an hour at Rochest er . The

gr eat er par t of t he r oad was deci dedl y pr et t y, especi al l y

t he ear l i er par t whi ch r an al ong t he banks of t he Hudson.

We st opped at Rome, Syr acuse, and Ut i ca amongst ot her

pl aces, al l busy, st i r r i ng pl aces appar ent l y, wi t h t hei r

st r eet s al l conver gi ng on and open t o t he l i ne of r ai l .

Ever y one has t o l ook out f or t hemsel ves, and you get i n

and out of t he t r ai ns at your own per i l . I have hear d of

ver y f ew acci dent s, and I don' t bel i eve t her e ar e as many

as wi t h us ; but I shoul d t hi nk a good many peopl e must

of t en be l ef t behi nd, as t he t r ai n st ar t s wi t hout any si gnal ,

l eavi ng you t o cl i mb i n as you can, an easy enough f eat

f or an act i ve man, but scar cel y f or any one el se. Thi s

j our ney was our f i r st r eal l y l ong one ; we di d not get t o

Suspensi on Br i dge, wher e we sl ept , t i l l past mi dni ght , but

I di dn' t f i nd i t ver y t i r i ng. Ther e was a dr awi ng- r oom

car on, but I woul d not go i n i t . The ot her car s ar e qui t e

comf or t abl e enough, and I l i ke seei ng and bei ng wi t h t he

peopl e, t hough t hey cont i nue t o be t he most si l ent and

r eser ved of any r ace I have ever been amongst . Next

day ( Sat ur day) j ust gl anced at t he Fal l s ; we r an r ound t he

west of Lake Ont ar i o, by Hami l t on, t o Tor ont o, t he capi t al

of t he pr ovi nce, and wer e exceedi ngl y st r uck and pl eased

wi t h t he si gns of vi gour and pr osper i t y bot h i n t he count r y

Vacat i on Rambl es 149

and ci t i es. The f ar mi ng i s cer t ai nl y cl eaner and bet t er

t han on t he Amer i can si de of t he l ake, and t he t owns

don' t l ose by compar i son wi t h t hose of t he same si ze over

t he bor der . At Tor ont o I f ound Dymond, one of my best

Lambet h suppor t er s, i n t he Gl obe Of f i ce, and we cal l ed on

one of our Per uvi an accpxai nt ances, who r egal ed us wi t h

champagne i n hi s huge st or e ; we went over t he l aw cour t s

and ot her publ i c bui l di ngs, di ned, and t hen on t o t he boat

t o cr oss back t o Ni agar a. I t i s about t wo hour s' sai l and

ver y pl easant . Ther e wer e qui t e a number of young and

pr et t y gi r l s on boar d goi ng acr oss f or t he t r i p, as you

mi ght dr i ve out i n a car r i age t o any subur b. I t seems

t he r egul ar af t er noon amusement and l ounge, and t he

heads of f ami l i es t ake season t i cket s whi ch pass al l t hei r be-

l ongi ngs. Ther e wer e t hr ee Canadi an M. P. ' s al so on boar d,

wi t h whom I got a good deal of usef ul and pl easant chat ;

one of t hem ( M. P. f or Ni agar a) i nduced me t o " dr i nk" t wi ce

i n gi nger - al e and br andy, and agai n i n champagne, whi ch

was t he f i r st i nst ance of t hat pr essi ngl y convi vi al habi t

supposed t o be uni ver sal on t hi s si de t hat I have seen. I

am uncommonl y gl ad i t doesn' t r eal l y pr evai l , as not hi ng

I det est mor e t han t hi s i r r egul ar ki nd of dr i nki ng. The

pi ck- me- up i s deci dedl y one of t he most l oat hsome i nven-

t i ons of a decr epi t ci vi l i sat i on. We got t o our hot el her e,

r i ght opposi t e t he Fal l s, by about si x, saw t hem f i r st bef or e

t ea and af t er war ds by moonl i ght , as I have al r eady nar r at ed.

I n an hour ' s t i me we st ar t f or Chi cago. Our l at e host , Mr .

, t he Pr esi dent of t he I l l i noi s Cent r al Eai l , one of

t he gr eat est of t he West er n' s syst em of r ai l ways, has

Page 79 of 259

f ol l owed us her e, and i s goi ng r ound a t our of i nspect i on

of hi s l i ne, and t o open 150 mi l es of new way f or t r af f i c.

80 we shal l go r ound i n an expr ess t r ai n wi t h hi m, seei ng

ever yt hi ng i n t he most l uxur i ous and easi est manner — a

wonder f ul pi ece of l uck. I t was hi s ni ce wi f e who per -

suaded hi m t o come of f and do i t now at once whi l e he

coul d have us wi t h hi m. I am si t t i ng at my open wi ndow,

out si de of whi ch i s a br oad ver andah wi t h a magni f i cent

vi ew of t he Fal l s. I am get t i ng what I t ake t o be my l ast

150 Vacat i on Rambl es

l ook at t hem, and f or t he l ast t i me t he sound of many -

wat er s, t he f i nest t o be hear d i n t he wor l d, I suppose,

i s i n my ear s. The mi d- At l ant i c when t he waves wer e

hi ghest st r uck me mor e, but not hi ng el se I have ever seen

i n Swi t zer l and or el sewher e comes near t hi s. I t i s t he

f i r st gr eat hot el we have been i n, and not a bad

speci men I i magi ne. We get heaps of meal s, and t hough

t he cooki ng i s not al l one coul d wi sh, t her e i s not hi ng t o

hi nder your l i vi ng ver y wel l . We ar e wai t ed on by some

f i f t een or t went y r eal dar ki es — good, gr i nni ng, cur l y- pat ed

Sambos and Pompeys — so, of cour se, I am happy so f ar as

ser vi ce goes. Ser i ousl y, t hough, t hey ar e much mor e

obl i gi ng and qui t e as i nt el l i gent as t hei r whi t e compeer s

her e and i n t he St at es.

St okm Lake, \ Zt h Sept ember 1870.

One l i ne f r om t hi s odd l i t t l e st at i on, r i ght i n t he mi ddl e

of t he I owa pr ai r i es, whi ch sl ope away r i ght out of si ght

i n ever y di r ect i on. I t i s t he hi ghest poi nt bet ween For t

Dodge and Si oux Ci t y. Fi f t een mont hs ago t her e wer e

not t hr ee set t l er s' cabi ns on t he whol e 140 mi l es; now

t hey ar e dot t ed al ong ever y mi l e or so, somet i mes t ur f

hut s, somet i mes wooden, wi t h gener al l y a gr oup of bar e-

f oot ed, heal t hy chi l dr en t umbl i ng about t he door s. We

ar e si t t i ng i n t he l i t t l e wooden post - of f i ce her e, on t he

wal l s of whi ch hang maps of t he spl endi d t own whi ch i s

t o be r un up i n t he next t hr ee or f our year s, and not i ces

of a meet i ng of t he ci t i zens of St or m Lake t o hear t he

addr esses of Capt ai n Jackson Or r , t he Republ i can candi dat e

f or Congr ess of t he di st r i ct , and of Gover nor G , who

comes t o suppor t hi m. The whol e pl ace at pr esent con-

si st s of some t en or t wel ve wooden hut s, wi t h t wo mor e

ambi t i ous bui l di ngs r unni ng up, one an hot el and t he

ot her a bi g st or e. The set t l er s ar e a f i ne r ough set of

f el l ows, but f i dl of i nt el l i gence, and det er mi ned t o make

t hei r pl ace t he most i mpor t ant ci t y i n t he St at e. I t i s a

most exqui si t e cl i mat e, wi t h a l ake f our mi l es by t wo, i n

Vacat i on Rambl es 1 5 1

whi ch t her e ar e pl ent y of pi cker el , and as we came al ong

i n our expr ess t r ai n we have put up l ot s of coveys of

pr ai r i e hens, l i ke hi g t ame gr ouse, most del i ci ous eat i ng

Page 80 of 259

t oo. Expr ess t r ai n, you wi l l l ook at wi t h wonder i ng eyes.

Wel l , or r at her waal , as t hey pr onounce i t her e, t hat i s

t he expl anat i on of t he whol e ci t y, and account s f or al l t hat

i s goi ng t o happen on t hi s gl or i ous pr ai r i e. A l i ne of r ai l

has been bui l t r i ght acr oss i t by some ent er pr i si ng f ol k i n

New Yor k, who want now t o l ease i t t o t he I l l i noi s

Cent r al Eai l way, wi t h whi ch i t makes connect i ons at For t

Dodge. We l ef t Chi cago yest er day mor ni ng, got t o

Dubuque on t he Mi ssi ssi ppi by ni ght , t r avel l ed al l t hr ough

t he ni ght t o For t Dodge, and ar e on her e now f i f t y - t hr ee

mi l es f ar t her i nspect i ng. I t i s r egal t r avel l i ng. We have

t wo car r i ages, — one a char mi ng sl eepi ng- car , i n whi ch I have

a beaut i f ul l i t t l e st at e- r oom, anot her car r i age f or di ni ng,

et c. , equal l y commodi ous, al l our st or es on boar d, so t hat

we l i ve spl endi dl y, t wo negr o boys t o wai t on us. ,

t he pr esent pr esi dent , and t he vi ce- pr esi dent of t he l i ne, ar e

our onl y f el l ow- passenger s, each of whom i s as wel l l odged

as I am. We go al ong as we pl ease, somet i mes at f or t y,

somet i mes at t en mi l es an hour , t al ki ng t o t he peopl e at

each l i t t l e l og- house st at i on, and enj oyi ng t he conf i nes of

ci vi l i sat i on i n t he most per f ect l uxur y. Whi l e t hey ar e

t al ki ng about t he pr i ce of l and r ound her e I have j ust t hi s

t en mi nut es, and f i nd I can f i r e of t ' t hi s not e wi t h some

chance t hat i t may get of f by t he New Yor k boat of Sat ur -

day, so t hat I shan' t l ose a post or you a l et t er .

For t Dodge, 13l h Scyt cmhcr 1870.

Her e we ar e! Sept ember 15, 2 P. M. You wi l l see, i f

you have got my l ast f r om Si oux Ci t y, t hat t he above

headi ng i s somewhat wi l d. The f act i s, t hat j ust as I had

wr i t t en t he t hr ee f i r st wor ds ( i n f act , whi l e I was wr i t i ng

t hem, whi ch account s f or t hei r j er ky l ook) , our l i t t l e t r ai n

moved on f r om For t Dodge and I coul dn' t wr i t e, even on

our super b spr i ngs. Now we ar e at Counci l Bl uf f s,

152

Vacat i on Rambl es

opposi t e Omaha. Why, hang i t ! her e we go agai n movi ng

on, and I must st op agai n.

3 P. M. — - We onl y r an t hr ee mi l es and t hen st opped t o

l unch and l et a Uni on - Paci f i c t r ai n pass. Now af t er

a f amous l unch i n our second or commi ssar i at car , I am

get t i ng a smoke and a f ew mor e l i nes t o you bef or e we

ar e of f east war d agai n. Thank Heaven ! af t er al l t he won-

der f ul new si ght s and sensat i ons of t he l ast t hr ee and a

hal f days si nce we l ef t Ni agar a, I conf ess t o t he ut most

del i ght at f eel i ng t hat we have made our f ar t hest poi nt ,

and t hat I am al r eady some t hr ee mi l es pl us t he br eadt h

of t he Mi ssour i Ei ver and Omaha Ci t y on my way back t o

you. I t i s st i l l mor e t han a mont h bef or e we embar k f or

Page 81 of 259

home ( i f I can hol d out as l ong) ; st i l l , we ar e on our way !

However , you must not t hi nk t hat I am not enj oyi ng my -

sel f wonder f ul l y. I am, and am al so, I hope, good company,

f or when one i s t r eat ed l i ke t he Gr and Tur k or t he Emper or

of Russi a, t he l east one can do i s t o be pl easant . But i f I

go on wi t h my sensat i ons, I shal l never pi ck up my nar r a-

t i ve ; as i t i s, I shal l be obl i ged t o l eave t housands of t hi ngs

t i l l we meet , when I do hope I shan' t have f or got t en any -

t hi ng. Wel l , di dn' t I l eave of f at Ni agar a ? We l ef t t he

hot el i n f r ont of t he Fal l s t her e on Monday mor ni ng af t er

br eakf ast wi t h 0— — , who had no power except f or hi m-

sel f t i l l we got t o Chi cago ; we had been f ur ni shed wi t h

f r ee passes, and r ode i n t he or di nar y car s t hr ough Ont ar i o

pr ovi nce t o Wi ndsor , opposi t e Det r oi t . I n Canada, agai n,

t he di f f er ence was at once vi si bl e bet ween t he t wo peopl es ;

but I am not at al l pr epar ed t o admi t t hat t he Canadi ans

have t he wor st of i t , cer t ai nl y not i n t he r oadsi de cooker y,

f or we had t he best j oi nt of beef we have seen si nce we

l ef t home at di nner , and t he best br ead and but t er at t ea.

At Wi ndsor t he t r ai n r an qui et l y on t o t he huge f er r y - boat -

st eamer , and we had a moonl i ght passage t o t he r ai l way

st at i on at Det r oi t . Her e we secur ed ber t hs i n t he Pul l -

man sl eepi ng car , f or whi ch you pay r at her mor e t han

you woul d f or a bed at a f i r st - cl ass hot el . However , t hey

ar e an admi r abl e i nst i t ut i on, and enabl e one t o get t hr ough

Vacat i on Rambl es 153

r eal l y wonder f ul t r avel l i ng f eat s. AVe wer e at Chi cago

ear l y next mor ni ng, and t r ansf er r ed our sel ves di r ect l y i nt o

our smal l expr ess t r ai n, get t i ng gl i mpses of t he ci t y of

f or t y year s, whi ch wi t hi n l i vi ng men' s memor y was a smal l

I ndi an st at i on.

I t i s enor mous, spr eadi ng over cer t ai nl y t hr ee t i mes t he

space whi ch an Engl i sh ci t y of 250, 000 i nhabi t ant s woul d

occupy. We shal l see t he t own on our r et ur n ; meant i me,

as we r an out of t he subur bs, we saw a house of consi der -

abl e si ze wai t i ng at t he cr ossi ng f or our t r ai n t o pass bef or e

i t went over , as cool l y as a f ar mer ' s waggon of hay woul d

wai t i n Engl and. t ol d us t hat al l t he ol d houses

i n Chi cago ar e moved i n t hi s way. As bui l di ng i s ver y

expensi ve, when one of t he bi g f ol k want s t o put up some

spl endi d new st r uct ur e — bank, st or e, or t he l i ke — t her e ar e

al ways men r eady t o buy t he ol d house as i t st ands. They

t hen j ust cut away i t s f oundat i on, put i t on r ol l er s, and

t ot e i t away t o t he si t e t hey have bought i n t he subur bs.

AVe f el l upon br eakf ast i n a hal f - f ami shed st at e as we

st eamed away west war d, and t hr ough t he whol e day wer e

kept on t he st r et ch. Not t hat t her e was any gr eat beaut y

i n t he scener y, but t he i nt er est of get t i ng act ual l y i nt o

hal f - set t l ed count r y was exceedi ngl y absor bi ng. The most

not abl e t own we passed was Gal ena, i n Nor t her n I l l i noi s,

f r om whi ch Gr ant went t o t he war , l eavi ng hi s l eat her yar d

f or t hat pur pose. The ci t i zens of Gal ena have bought and

pr esent ed hi m a good squar e house of r ed br i ck on t he t op

of t he hi l l t her e. Then we r an al ong a t r i but ar y of t he

Mi ssi ssi ppi , and about 4. 30 came out on t he f at her of wat er s;

wher e we st r uck t he mi ght y st r eam i t was not i mpr essi ve.

We came upon a mi ght y swamp, not a r i ver , mi l es and

Page 82 of 259

mi l es of t r ees, some of t hem f i ne l ar ge ones, st andi ng i n

t he wat er and cover ed wi t h cr eeper s. The r i ver was

l ucki l y hi gh, so t hat we had t hi s ef f ect of a f or est r i si ng out

of wat er t o per f ect i on. Then t her e wer e mi l es of swamp,

hal f wat er , hal f l and, dr ear y and hor r i bl e t o l ook at , some-

t i mes sound enough f or cat t l e t o pi ck about , and t hen onl y

f i t f or al l i gat or s and wi l d- f owl ; of t he l at t er Ave saw a

154 Vacat i on Rambl es

number , i ncl udi ng a whi t e her on. At l ast we came upon

t he r i ver , some t hr ee- quar t er s of a mi l e wi de up t her e,

1G00 mi l es f r om t he sea, and cr ossed by a gossamer br i dge,

a r eal wor k of hi gh ar t . On t he opposi t e si de we st opped

f or t ea- di nner at Dubuque, one of t he l ar gest t owns i n

I owa, and t he f i r st bor der ci t y we had seen, — ver y quai nt

t o behol d, wi t h st r eet s l ai d out as br oad as Kegent St r eet ,

her e and t her e a huge bl ock of st or es f ul l of dr y goods or

gr ocer i es, and t hen a l ot of wooden hovel s, a vacant pl ot

per haps, and t hen a bi g hot el , or anot her gr eat st or e, — t he

st r eet s al l as sof t as Rot t en Row, and much deeper i n di r t ,

si de pavement s of wood, ever y house pl acar ded i n huge

l et t er s wi t h t he name and busi ness of t he owner . Her e,

f or t he f i r st t i me, we saw emi gr ant s' waggons packed wi t h

t hei r househol d goods and l umber ( sawed pl anks) f or t hei r

houses, bound f or t he pr ai r i es beyond, on whi ch t hey set t l e

under t he homest ead act s. I n shor t , t he pushi ng sl i pshod

char act er of t he gr eat West was t hor oughl y mi r r or ed i n t he

pl ace, and above al l t he ot her bui l di ngs was a f i ne common

school open t o ever y chi l d i n t he pl ace. Thi s i s t he one

uni ver sal char act er i st i c of t hese t owns and vi l l ages ; al most

t he f i r st t hi ng t hey do i s t o bui l d a f amous bi g school .

The member of Congr ess f or t he pl ace and one or t wo

ot her not abl es came down t o see us af t er t ea, and smoked

a ci gar wi t h us i n our sal oon car bef or e we st ar t ed. The

t al k was, of cour se, on t he wonder s of t he West , and t he

chances of Dubuque t o be a bi g ci t y i n a year or t wo.

Then we t ur ned i n and r an al l ni ght t o For t Dodge, f r om

whi ch t he f i r st l i ne of t hi s l et t er was wr i t t en, a vi l l age wi t h

t he same char act er i st i cs as t he t owns, except t hat t he onl y

bui l di ng not of wood was t he st at i on, whi ch, st r ange t o

say, was bui l t of gypsum, f ound i n gr eat quant i t i es her e,

and t he onl y sor t of st one t hey have. The pr esi dent of

t he l i ne — a shr ewd, honest , West er n man named Dougl as,

one of our par t y — guessed t hat i n anot her f i ve year s t he} ^

woul d have t o pul l t he st at i on down and manur e t he l and

wi t h i t . Fr om t hi s pl ace we r an r i ght up i nt o t he wi l d

pr ai r i es, and at t he hi ghest poi nt bet ween t he Mi ssi ssi ppi

Vacat i on Rambl es 155

and Mi ssour i , at St or m Lake, I wr ot e you t he hast y not e

whi ch, I hope, you have r ecei ved f r om t hose unknown par t s.

I t i s about t he l ar gest set t l ement i n t he 180 mi l es, con-

si st i ng of per haps t wel ve or f our t een wooden houses, one

of whi ch was a bi l l i ar d sal oon kept by an ol d Cor ni sh man.

He sai d t hat qui t e a number of Cor ni sh mi ner s ar e over

i n t hi s di st r i ct , some at l ead and coal mi nes of a ver y

pr i mi t i ve ki nd, ot her s f ar mi ng. On t he whol e, t he peopl e

seemed a good, st eady, i ndependent l ot , and t he chi l dr en

Page 83 of 259

l ooked wonder f ul l y heal t hy, r unni ng about bar ef oot ed on

t he shor e of t he l i t t l e l ake or amongst t he pr ai r i e gr ass.

We made acquai nt ance wi t h pr ai r i e chi cken and t he l i t t l e

ear t h squi r r el , a j ol l y l i t t l e dog, wi t h a pr et t i l y mar ked

back, who f r i sks i nt o hi s hol e i nst ead of up a t r ee l i ke our s.

Then we dr opped down, st i l l t hr ough wi l d pr ai r i e, over

whi ch t he si ngl e l i ne of r ai l r uns wi t h no pr ot ect i on at al l ,

t i l l we came t o Si oux Ci t y on t he Mi ssour i , and t he bi ggest

t own on t he r i ver f or 2000 mi l es f r om i t s sour ce. Ther e

ar e 12, 000 i nhabi t ant s, and pr eci sel y t he same f eat ur es as

at Dubuque, except t hat i t i s a f ar mor e r owdy pl ace, bei ng

st i l l al most under t he domi ni on of Judge Lynch. Onl y

t he day bef or e we ar r i ved, a bor der r uf f i an had been

swagger i ng about t he t own, pi st ol i n hand, and def yi ng

ar r est . However , t hey di d t ake hi m at l ast , and he was

saf e i n pr i son. A f or t ni ght ear l i er a r ascal , who conf essed

t o ni ne mur der s, had been t aken and hung on t he ot her

si de of t he r i ver . Ther e ar e si xt y- t hr ee sal oons, at most

of whi ch gambl i ng goes on r egul ar l y ever y ni ght . The

edi t or of t he Si oux Tr i bune, an I r i sh Yankee of queer mor al s

and ext r aor di nar y " go, " t ook us i nt o one, st ood dr i nks

r ound, and expounded t he i ngeni ous games by whi ch t he

set t l er s and of f i cer s of t he I ndi an f or t up t he st r eam ar e

cl ear ed of t hei r money. A r owdy, l oaf i ng, vagabond ci t y,

but t her e t hey have t hr ee or f our f i ne school s ( one had j ust

cost 45, 000 dol l ar s) , f or whi ch t hey t ax t he sal oons mer ci -

l essl y. I have no doubt t he pl ace wi l l be qui t e r espect abl e

i n anot her f i ve year s. We sl ept qui et l y and dr opped down

sout h al ong t he Mi ssour i t o Counci l Bl uf f s, f r om whi ch t he

156 Vacat i on Rambl es'

ear l i er par t of t hi s was wr i t t en. The Mi ssour i i s a dol ef ul

st r eam, shal l ow, wi t h huge sandbanks i n t he mi ddl e, and

gr eat swamps at t he si de, but st r i ki ng gr een bl uf f ' s r i si ng-

above on t he east bank under whi ch we went ; and behi nd

t hem I saw t he sun r i se i n gr eat beaut y. We j ust cr ossed

t he r i ver t o Omaha t o say we had been i n Mi ssour i and

seen t he t er mi nus of t he Uni on - Paci f i c Rai l way, and

a f i ne go- ahead pl ace i t i s, l i ke Dubuque, onl y t wi ce as

bi g and f i nel y si t uat e on hi l l s above t he Mi ssour i Ri ver .

We ar e now back at Chi cago, havi ng seen mor e f r ont i er

t owns and pr ai r i es on our way her e, and i n f i ve days, by

t he good f or t une of t hi s pr i vat e t r ai n, have done mor e t han

we coul d have managed ot her wi se i n ni ne.

Chi cago, 19t h Sept ember 1870.

I am so af r ai d t hat I shan' t get of f a l et t er r egul ar l y t wi ce

a week f r om t hi s r un i n t he West , t hat I begi n t hi s i n a

spar e t hr ee mi nut es bet ween packi ng and a t est i moni al

whi ch i s t o be gi ven me her e by a l ot of young gr aduat es

of t he Amer i can Uni ver si t i es at t he Cl ub at f our o' cl ock.

Thi s pl ace i s t he wonder of t he wonder f ul West , as you

know al r eady. A gent l eman I met t o- day t el l s me he

came up t o t hi s pl ace i n 1830, when i t consi st ed of a f or t

wi t h t wo compani es, a dozen l i t t l e wooden hut s, and an

encampment of 3000 or 4000 I ndi ans who had come i n t o

get t hei r al l owances under t r eat y wi t h t he Uni t ed St at es.

Now i t i s one of t he handsomest ci t i es I ever saw, wi t h

Page 84 of 259

300, 000 i nhabi t ant s, and pr ogr essi ng at t he r at e of 1500 a

week or t her eabout s. We have had our f i r st exper i ence

of a f i r st - r at e Amer i can hot el , t he Tr emont House her e.

I t i s deci dedl y not cheap. At pr esent r at es about f i f t een

shi l l i ngs or f our dol l ar s a day ; but you can eat and dr i nk

anyt hi ng but wi ne and spi r i t s al l day, wi t h t he except i on

of one hour i n t he af t er noon bet ween l unch and di nner .

I or der ed a peach j ust now f or l unch, and t hey br ought

me a whol e pl at ef ul , not so good as our hot - house ones,

but ver y f i ne f r ui t . Yest er day I went t wi ce t o hear Rober t

Vacat i on Rambl es 157

Col l yer , ; i f amous Uni t ar i an mi ni st er her e. He was bor n i n

Yor kshi r e, wher e he wor ked as a bl acksmi t h, pr eachi ng as a

Met hodi st , and f i nal l y, t went y year s ago, came out t o t he

West and est abl i shed hi msel f her e. He has gr eat and de-

ser ved i nf l uence, and i s al t oget her t he f i nest man of t he ki nd

I have ever met . Hi s t ext was out of Job : " Dost t hou

know t he spr i ngs of t he deep ? " I f or get t he exact

wor ds, but you wi l l f i nd t hem i n t he spl endi d 38t h

chapt er , wher e God i s showi ng Job who i s mast er ( as t he

cabman put i t ) . He had been f or hi s hol i day at t he sea,

and was f ul l of t hought s whi ch, as he sai d, he want ed t o

get of f t o hi s peopl e. He began by a quot at i on f r om

Ruski n as t o t he f ant ast i c power and beaut y of t he

sea, . sai d t hat no t r ace of l ove f or t he sea coul d be f ound

i n t he Bi bl e, onl y f ear of i t . I n t he New Jer usal em, St .

John dr eamed " t her e shal l be no mor e sea. " Same wi t h

al l gr eat poet s, even Engl i sh, i l l ust r at ed by Bur ns and

Shakesper e, and Dr . Johnson' s sayi ng, " That a shi p was a

pr i son wi t h a chance of bei ng dr owned. " Even sai l or s don' t

r eal l y l ook on sea as home, and f ear i t , and weave myst i cal

not i ons of al l ki nds r ound i t . Yet t he sea has i t s sweet

and gent l e si de t oo ; i t nour i shes ever y pl ant and f l ower

t hat gr ows by i t s exhal at i ons, and keeps t he r i ver s sweet

and r unni ng ; and l ook at one of t he exqui si t e l i t t l e shel l s

whi ch you may f i nd af t er t he f i er cest st or m, or t he bi t of

sea- weed l yi ng on t he shor e, or t he l i mpet on t he r ock.

The l ashi ng of t he st or m has done t hem no har m, and

t her e t hey l i e as per f ect as i f i t had never been r agi ng

about t hem. So t he gr eat st or my sea of l i f e has i t s gent l e

and l ovi ng si de f or ever y one of us so l ong as we t r ust i n

God and j ust obey Hi s l aws and do Hi s wi l l . I have gi ven

you t he ver y bar est out l i ne of a ver y st r i ki ng ser mon.

I n t he eveni ng I went t o t ea wi t h hi m, and t her e was a

l ar ge bunch of gr apes on my pl at e wi t h t he encl osed

l i t t l e paper , " To Mr . Hughes f r om t he chi l dr en, " whi ch

t ouched me much. The chi l dr en ar e ver y ni ce, l i ober t

Li ncol n, Abe' s son, and a l ot of hi s f r i ends ar e our ent er -

t ai ner s t o- day, and i n t he eveni ng we go by t he ni ght

158 Vacat i on Rambl es

t r ai n t o St . Loui s. I l ai d asi de t he ot her sheet t o go of f

t o t hi s cl ub di nner wi t h t he young Chi cago men, and I

have never had a mor e hear t y gr eet i ng or ki nder wor ds

and l ooks t han amongst t hese youngst er s, al l gr aduat es of

some uni ver si t y, most of t hem of f i cer s i n t he l at e war ,

who ar e set t l ed down i n t he gr eat money- maki ng t own,

Page 85 of 259

and ar e l i vi ng br ave and st er l i ng and ear nest l i ves t her e.

I r eal l y can' t t el l you t he sor t of t hi ngs t hey sai d ( t hey

dr ank your heal t h, and t he pr oposer made one of t he

pr et t i est l i t t l e speeches i n pr oposi ng i t I ever hear d) ; i n

shor t , I was posi t i vel y ashamed, and scar cel y knew how t o

meet i t al l or what t o say t o t hem ; but i t was l ess em-

bar r assi ng t han i t woul d have been wi t h any ot her young

men, f or t hi s ki nd of young Amer i can ( l i ke Hol mes) i s so

t r anspar ent l y si ncer e t hat you can come out qui t e squar e

wi t h hi m bef or e you have known hi m an hour . Our good

f r i ends of t he I l l i noi s Cent r al gave us f r ee passage t o St .

Loui s, t o whi ch we t r avel l ed al l ni ght . I t i s t he bi ggest

t own i n Mi ssour i , was a gr eat sl ave- hol di ng pl ace i n 1860,

and ver y " secesh " dur i ng t he war . A f i ne ci t y i t i s t oo,

wi t h i t s gr and quay l i ned wi t h huge st eamer s, and i t s

mi l es of f i ne st r eet s. Rowdy t hough, st i l l , f ul l of l ow

sal oons and gambl i ng- houses. The most dr unken t own

i n t he L T ni t ed St at es, t he gent l eman who met us, and

dr ove us about and got us f r ee paper s her e t o Ci nci nnat i ,

t ol d us. The most char act er i st i c t hi ng t hat happened t o

me was t hat I was shaved by a negr o ( and bet t er shaved

t han I ever was i n my l i f e bef or e) . He had been body

ser vant t o hi s mast er , a r i ch Sout her n pl ant er , t hr ough t he

f i r st t hr ee year s of t he war . Hi s mast er was at l ast shot

and he managed t o get t aken, and so " I ' se no sl ave now, "

as he sai d, wi t h al l hi s i vor i es shi ni ng. Hi s educat i on

has not been much i mpr oved, however , f or he t hought

Engl and was at war , as bei ng somehow par t ei t her of

Fr ance or Ger many, he coul dn' t j ust say whi ch, and

woul d scar cel y bel i eve me when I decl ar ed t hat we wer e

separ at ed by t he sea f r om bot h. Then we t r avel l ed al l

ni ght agai n ( I sl eep spl endi dl y i n t hese pal ace car s, so

Vacat i on Rambl es l 59

j

don' t be al ar med) , and got her e t o t he queen ci t y of Ohi o

t hi s mor ni ng, af t er t he most gl or i ous sunr i se I ever saw.

Thi s al so i s a ver y f i ne ci t y on t he Ohi o, wi t h f i ne hi l l s al l

r ound and a magni f i cent suspensi on br i dge. The most

char act er i st i c si ght I have seen her e, however , was t wo

smal l boys t r ot t i ng al ong t oget her bar ef oot ed, wi t h a

pi ece of sugar - cane bet ween t hem, each sucki ng one end.

I had a not e t o For ce, one of Sher man' s gener al s, now a

j udge her e, who ki ndl y sent us r ound i n a car r i age, but

was t oo busy t o come wi t h us. To- ni ght we make anot her

l ong r un t o Phi l adel phi a. We shoul d have gone t o

Washi ngt on and so wor ked nor t h, but Phi l adel phi a i s t he

next pl ace wher e I shal l get l et t er s, and I can' t do any

l onger wi t hout hear i ng f r om you, so t hat ' s al l about i t .

I have l ot s of f r i ends i n Phi l adel phi a, so shal l pr obabl y

make t wo days' st ay t her e.

Cont i nent al Hot el , Phi l adel phi a,

23r d Sept ember 1870.

Wher e was I i n my nar r at i ve ? I guess ( I am get t i ng a

t hor ough Yankee i n my ver nacul ar ) I gave you a shor t

account of t he queen ci t y, as t hey cal l Ci nci nnat i . We

Page 86 of 259

l ef t Ci nci nnat i at t en o' cl ock on Wednesday ni ght and

came r i ght away f or 600 mi l es t o Phi l adel phi a.

The most i nt er est i ng par t of t he r oad was t he cr ossi ng

t he Al l eghani es, up whi ch we wound t hr ough vast f or est

t r acks f or some t hi r t y mi l es, and down t he east er n sl opes

i n t he sunset , get t i ng dayl i ght f or al l t he most beaut i f ul

par t s. As we wer e r ushi ng up one of t he f i nest gor ges,

some 200 yar ds wi de, we wer e suddenl y awar e of a huge

eagl e ( bi gger t han t hose we saw on t he Danube as we

st eamed t hr ough t he I r on Gat es) sai l i ng up on t he opposi t e

si de, per haps 100 yar ds f r om t he t r ai n. We wer e goi ng

ei ght y mi l es an hour at t he l east , and t he gr and ol d f el l ow

swept al ong wi t hout t he l east appar ent ef f or t , keepi ng

abr east of our car f or I shoul d t hi nk a coupl e of mi l es,

when he suddenl y t ur ned and set t l ed on a f i ne pi ne- t r ee.

160 Vacat i on Rambl es

Af t er br eakf ast we had a r eal f i el d- day i n t hi s spl endi d

ci t y, whi ch r i val s Bost on i n i nt er est and char act er . Out -

si de i t i s bui l t of r ed br i ck and whi t e mar bl e, t he cont r ast

of whi ch mat er i al s i s t o me si ngul ar l y t aki ng, t hough I

dar esay i t i s ver y bad ar t .

Then t he chi ef st r eet s r un away l ong and st r ai ght , and

as you l ook down t hem al l seem t o di ve i nt o gr oups of

t r ees. Wal nut St r eet , Chest nut St r eet , and Spr uce St r eet

ar e t he names of t he ol dest and handsomest avenues. Our

f r i end Fi el d, t he banker , was al l r eady f or us, and a dozen

new f r i ends, i ncl udi ng Gener al Meade, t he f i r st Feder al

gener al who won t he bat t l e i n t he East , and a char mi ng,

t al l , handsome, gr i zzl ed, gent l emanl y sol di er . We went

over t he ol d St at e House, a pr e- r evol ut i onar y bui l di ng,

f r om t he t op of whi ch t her e i s a spl endi d vi ew of t he t own,

wi t h t he t wo r i ver s, t he Del awar e and Schuyl ki l l , on whi ch

i t st ands. Ther e i s t he hal l i n whi ch t he Decl ar at i on of

I ndependence was si gned, and t he chai r i n whi ch Hancock

sat , and t he t abl e on whi ch i t l ay f or si gnat ur e. The

squar e i s char mi ng, wi t h i t s ol d t r ees and t ur f , j ust as i t

has al ways st ood, and I am happy t o say t he Pennsyl vani ans

ar e ver y pr oud of t he ol d pl ace, won' t al l ow i t t o be

t ouched, and ar e l i kel y t o keep i t t her e t i l l i t bur ns, as I

suppose t he St at e House, wi t h al l t he ol d- f ashi oned t i mber s

i n wal l and r oof , wi l l some day. Then we went t o t he

gr eat Nor mal School f or gi r l s her e, f i ve hundr ed st r ong,

t he daught er s of al l sor t s of f ol k, f r om physi ci ans and

l awyer s t o l abour er s. I was exceedi ngl y i nt er est ed and

i nst r uct ed i n many cl asses, especi al l y i n t he hi st or y cl ass.

The handsome, sel f - possessed young woman who was

t eachi ng was j ust begi nni ng t he Kevol ut i onar y War as we

came i n, and " f el t l i ke" changi ng t he subj ect as she sai d,

but I begged her t o go on, and hear d t he ol d st or y f r om

Lexi ngt on down t o Cor nwal l i s' s sur r ender wi t hout t ur ni ng

a hai r . Af t er cl asses, at t wo, t he whol e school was

gat her ed f or Scr i pt ur e r eadi ng and si ngi ng a hymn.

Af t er t he hymn, i n compl i ment t o us, t hey began

" God save t he Queen " ; Kawl i ns and I got up by a sor t

Vacat i on Rambl es 161

Page 87 of 259

of i nst i nct , and t o my i mmense amusement up got t he

whol e company. Then I was asked t o say a f ew wor ds ;

and t al ked about t he gr and educat i on t hey wer e get t i ng,

r ef er r ed t o t he hi st or y cl ass and t ol d t hem no Engl i shman

wor t h t he name now r egr et t ed t he end of t he st r uggl e

one hundr ed year s ol d, but onl y t hat any of t he bi t t er ness

shoul d st i l l be l ef t ; spoke of t he gr and count r y whi ch has

been ent r ust ed t o t hem t o be f i l l ed wi t h t he poor of t he

whol e wor l d, t ol d t hem t hat we had a woman' s r i ght s

movement at home as wel l as t hey, whi ch I hoped woul d

not f al l i nt o any gr eat absur di t i es, but t her e wer e t wo

r i ght s t hey woul d al ways i nsi st on — t he r i ght of ever y gi r l

i n t he St at es t o such an educat i on as t hey wer e get t i ng,

and t hei r own r i ght ( t hey ar e al l bei ng educat ed as

t eacher s) t o go and gi ve t hi s educat i on t o t hose who want

i t most i n West and Sout h. Then t he gi r l s al l f i l ed out

t o mar ch musi c, pl ayed by a seni or gi r l , wi ndi ng i n and

out of t he r ows of benches on whi ch t hey had sat , and so

away downst ai r s and t o al l par t s of t he t own, t he pr et t i est

si ght you can i magi ne. The gi r l s ar e at t he most awk -

war d age, and, of cour se, many of t hem pl ai n, but al t o-

get her as comel y as t he same sor t woul d be wi t h us, and

not a si gn of pover t y amongst t hem, t hough many wer e

qui t e pl ai nl y dr essed. My democr at i c soul r ej oi ced at t he

si ght as you may f ancy. What a chance f or st r ai ni ng t he

nonsense out of a gi r l i f she has any ! We adj our ned

f r om t he gr eat t r ai ni ng- school f or gi r l s t o t he Guar d

Col l ege f or or phan boys, f ounded by a queer ol d Fr ench

Vol t ai r i an ci t i zen of Phi l adel phi a, who di ed some f or t y

year s ago and l ef t pr oper t y wor t h hal f a mi l l i on of our

money t o f ound t hi s col l ege, wi t h t he expr ess pr ovi so t hat

no par son of any denomi nat i on was ever t o be admi t t ed

wi t hi n t he wal l s. I am happy t o say, however , t hat , not -

wi t hst andi ng t hi s pr ovi si on, whi ch i s obser ved t o t he

l et t er , t he Bi bl e i s r ead and ever y day' s i nst r uct i on i s

begun and ended by a r el i gi ous ser vi ce. Thi s, by t he way,

i s t he case al most ever ywher e i n t he St at es. Not wi t h-

st andi ng al l t he asser t i ons t o t he cont r ar y, I have f ound

M

1 62 Vacat i on Rambl es

onl y one pl ace i n whi ch t he educat i on i s pur el y secul ar .

Thi s was Ci nci nnat i , wher e t he r esul t i s obt ai ned by a

combi nat i on of t he Roman Cat hol i cs wi t h t he Ger man

t own popul at i on. Wel l , t hi s col l ege, as i t i s cal l ed, i s

si mpl y a vast boys' home, j ust l i ke our own, except t hat

t he boys l i ve i n a most super b whi t e mar bl e bui l di ng,

copi ed f r om t he Par t henon. The cl asses wer e bei ng t aught ,

and kept i n r i ght good or der by women, who i ndeed al most

monopol i se t eachi ng i n t hi s St at e, and t hey ar e i n t he pr o-

por t i on of mor e t han t en t o one. The f aul t of Gi r ar d

Col l ege i s t hat i t i s not want ed ; t he publ i c school syst em

whi ch has gr own up si nce i t s f oundat i on bei ng open t o

ever y one, and of f er i ng at l east as good an educat i on. I f

i t s f unds coul d have been used t o suppor t t he boys whi l e

at t he publ i c school s i t woul d have been bet t er . The

whol e ar r angement s ar e deci dedl y mor e l uxur i ous t han t hose

at Rugby i n my t i me, and t hey have not yet est abl i shed

wor kshops. Af t er our r ound of i nst i t ut i ons we wer e

Page 88 of 259

ent er t ai ned at t he Uni on League Cl ub. The di nner was

good and t he company bet t er , Mr . MacMi chael , t he mayor ,

who had been t he chi ef mover i n est abl i shi ng t he cl ub i n

t he dar k days of 1861, pr esi ded, wi t h Gener al Meade, who

commanded at Get t ysbur g on hi s l ef t and me on hi s r i ght .

Dear ol d Fi el d, t he most f ur i ous and i mpul si ve of Repub-

l i cans, and t he most ar dent l over and abuser of Engl and

and Engl i shmen, vi ce- pr esi dent , and t he r est of t he com-

pany, st af f - of f i cer s i n t he war or mar ked men i n some ot her

way. The cl ub had sent el even r egi ment s t o t he war at

i t s own expense, and had exer ci sed i mmense i nf l uence on

t he Uni on at t he most cr i t i cal t i me. At l ast I was f ai r l y

cor ner ed ; I had of t en bef or e had t o def end our posi t i on i n

shar p ski r mi shes, but now, f or t he f i r st t i me, was i n f or a

gener al engagement . Wel l , I j ust t hr ew away al l def ensi ve

ar ms, and at t acked t hem at once. " You say we wer e l ed

by our ar i st ocr acy, who wer e savagel y host i l e t o you ; I

admi t t hey wer e host i l e, t hough wi t h many not abl e

except i ons, such as t he Duke of Ar gyl l , Lor d Car l i sl e,

Howar ds and Cavendi shes ; but what di d you expect 1 I

Vacat i on Rambl es 163

have t aken i n t hr ee or f our Amer i can paper s f or year s,

and i n your debat es i n Congr ess, i n your newspaper s, i n

ever y ut t er ance of your publ i c men, I have never hear d or

r ead anyt hi ng but savage abuse of our ar i st ocr acy. They

don' t r epl y t o your i nsul t s, but t hey don' t f or get t hem, so

when you got i nt o such har d l i nes t hey went i n hear t i l y

f or your enemi es. Wel l , you say t he Sout h wer e Engl and' s

r eal enemi es f or t he l ast f or t y year s. Tr ue, but ar i st ocr acy

di d not car e f or t hat , democr acy was r epr esent ed by you,

and t hat was what t hey went agai nst . " Ther e was an

out cr y : " Why, her e' s a pr et t y busi ness, we t hought you

wer e a Democr at . " " So I am, i n our Engl i sh sense, but

I am bef or e al l t hi ngs an Engl i shman. I have not hi ng t o

do wi t h our ar i st ocr acy ( except knowi ng a f ew of t hem) ,

and I f ought as har d agai nst t hem i n Engl and t hr ough t he

war as you di d agai nst t he r ebel s ; but I am not goi ng t o

al l ow you t o separ at e t hem f r om t he nat i on, or t o suppose

t hat t hey can be puni shed except t hr ough t he nat i on. "

" Wel l , but what do you say f or al l your gr eat commer ci al

wor l d — banker s, mer chant s, manuf act ur er s, our cor r e-

spondent s, l ook how t hey t ur ned on us ! "

" I t ' s no par t of my busi ness t o def end t hem; t hey wer e

mean, I al l ow, but t hei r busi ness was, as t hey supposed,

and as al l of you agr ee, t o make money ; besi des, af t er al l ,

who f ought your bat t l e bet t er t han Cobden, Br i ght , For st er ,

and such men as Ki r kman- Hodson, and Tom Bar i ng?"

Then t hey f el l back on t he gener al posi t i on t hat our

Gover nment was host i l e t o t hem, and I went t hr ough

what had r eal l y happened i n Par l i ament , and made t hem

admi t t hat i f we had l i st ened t o Loui s Napol eon, and t he

bl ockade had been br oken, i t woul d have been a nar r ow

squeak f or t he Uni on. On t he whol e, I t hi nk, I made a

good deal of i mpr essi on on most of t hem. Gener al Meade

and t he sol di er s wer e on my si de t hr oughout , and admi t t ed

at once t hat , af t er al l t he abuse t hei r pr ess heaped on our

gover ni ng cl asses, i t was chi l di sh t o cr y out when t hey

Page 89 of 259

pr oved t hat t hey knew of t he abuse and di dn' t l ove t he

abuser s. We al l par t ed t he war mest f r i ends, and I went

164 Vacat i on Rambl es

of f t o t ea at Mr s. W s' , wher e we met Dr . Mi t chel l , a

sci ent i f i c man, and hi s si st er , and ot her ver y pl easant f ol k,

and hear d many i nt er est i ng st or i es of t he war . The next

mor ni ng we st ar t ed f or Get t ysbur g. I had al ways made

a poi nt wi t h mysel f of seei ng t hi s one at any r at e of t he

gr eat bat t l ef i el ds. I t was t he r eal t ur ni ng- poi nt of t he

war , f ought on t he 1st , 2nd, and 3r d of Jul y 1863, af t er

t he ser i es of def eat s and f ai l ur es under M' Cl el l an, Pope

Hooker , Bur nsi de. I wel l r emember what a l ong br eat h

we ( t he Abol i t i oni st s) dr ew i n Engl and when t he news

came of Lee' s def eat at t he f ar t hest poi nt he had ever

made t o t he Nor t h, and f el t sur e, f or t he f i r st t i me, t hat t he

war woul d be put t hr ough, and sl aver y be abol i shed r i ght

down t o t he Gul f of Mexi co. We had t he best escor t

possi bl e i n t he per son of Rosengar t en, who was ai de- de-

camp t o Gener al Reynol ds, commander of t he cor ps whi ch

came up f i r st and sust ai ned t he whol e wei ght of bat t l e on

t he f i r st day. Fi el d al so " came al ong, " and we had a f i r st -

r at e t i me on our j our ney over t he Susquehanna br i dge,

whi ch t he Nor t her n mi l i t i a bur nt behi nd t hem as t hey

escaped f r om Lee' s advance. Then we st opped f or an hour

or t wo, wai t i ng f or a t r ai n at Yor k, a ni ce shady qui et count r y

t own of 11, 000 i nhabi t ant s. The r ebel s had occupi ed t he

pl ace f or t hr ee days and l evi ed a mat t er of 80, 000 dol l ar s

on t he peopl e ; i n al l ot her r espect s t hey seem t o have

behaved excel l ent l y and t o have been wel l under command.

The ol d Epi scopal i an cl er gyman, a war m f r i end of Engl and,

who had been Rosengar t en' s t ut or , and t o whom we pai d

a vi si t , gave us a capi t al descr i pt i on of t he t hr ee days'

occupat i on, and of t he r el i ef t he Yor k f ol k exper i enced

when t he poor r agged r ebel s mar ched of f f or Get t ysbur g,

and l ef t t he t own ver y l i t t l e poor er t han t hey had f ound

i t . We di dn' t get t o our i nn, a huge wooden bui l di ng on

t he f i r st day' s bat t l ef i el d, t i l l af t er sunset . Tea over , we

came out on t he wooden pl at f or m whi ch r uns al l r ound

t he house, and saw t he most gl or i ous si ght I have ever

seen, I t hi nk, i n t he ski es. St eami ng up Memphr emagog

we saw t he aur or a bor eal i s spl endi dl y, but t hat was

Vacat i on Rambl es 165

not hi ng t o t hi s. I n Canada t her e was no col our i n t he

pur e Hashes of l i ght whi ch l i t and pul sed over t he whol e

sky, but on Sat ur day t he changes of col our wer e spl endi d,

and I shoul d say f or hal f an hour t he heavens wer e t hr ob-

bi ng wi t h t he most l ovel y r ose- col our ed st r eamer s and

sheet s and f l ashes. Wi t h my vi ew of t he i mpor t ance t o

t he poor ol d wor l d of t he st r uggl e whi ch was descendi ng

t her e, you can f ancy t hat such an i nt r oduct i on t o i t was

wel come and i mpr essi ve. Next day we devot ed t o t he

bat t l ef i el d : began at t he begi nni ng wher e, on Thur sday t he

1st Jul y 1863, Rosengar t en hi msel f , as Reynol ds' s ai de- de-

camp, had r i dden f or war d and pl aced t he f i r st Feder al

r egi ment s whi ch came on t he gr ound i n posi t i on bet ween

Page 90 of 259

t he t own of Get t ysbur g, whi ch cont ai ns about 3000 i n-

habi t ant s and l i es i n a hol l ow, and t he advanci ng r ebel s.

Get t ysbur g i s at t he j unct i on of t hr ee r oads and was a

poi nt whi ch bot h ar mi es wer e bent on sei zi ng. The

f i ght on t hi s t he nor t h- east si de of t he t own began ear l y

on Thur sday. Rosengar t en, af t er car r yi ng out hi s or der s,

r ode back, and was j ust i n t i me t o see hi s Gener al f al l

f r om hi s hor se, shot t hr ough t he neck by a shar pshoot er ,

and hel ped t o car r y hi m of f t he f i el d. Af t er many hour s'

har d f i ght i ng t he Feder al s wer e dr i ven back t hr ough t he

t own wi t h heavy l oss. Our f r i end, Gener al Bar l ow, who

commanded a br i gade, was al so badl y wounded. Lucki l y,

dur i ng t he day t wo mor e cor ps of t he ar my of t he Pot omac

had come up and been pl aced i n posi t i on on a hi l l j ust t o

t he sout h of t he t own, on par t of whi ch t he cemet er y now

st ands, whi ch was made i mmor t al by Li ncol n' s gl or i ous

speech at t he i naugur at i on. Behi nd t hese f r esh t r oops

t he br oken 1st and 11t h cor ps r al l i ed and pr epar ed f or

t he next day. Rei nf or cement s came up t o Lee al so, and

i n t he t own t he shopkeeper s and ot her i nhabi t ant s hear d

t hem maki ng cer t ai n of an easy vi ct or y i n t he mor ni ng.

Meade i s evi dent l y a man who gai ns and hol ds t he conf i dence

of hi s t r oops ; but as he was sl i ght l y out number ed, and t he

r ebel s had t he pr est i ge of t he f i r st day' s vi ct or y, I t ake i t he

must have been beat en but f or t he spl endi d posi t i on he

1 66 Vacat i on Rambl es

had sel ect ed. Hi s t r oops l ay al ong t wo l i nes of hi l l s,

cover ed i n many pl aces wi t h wood whi ch sl oped away

f r om t he poi nt over l ooki ng t he t own, l eavi ng a space

bet ween t hem secur e f r om f i r e, i n whi ch he coul d move

hi s t r oops wi t hout bei ng seen, whi l e ever y move of Lee' s

was open t o hi m. The Conf eder at es began at t acks ear l y

and kept t hem up t hr oughout t he day, but coul d not

f or ce t he posi t i on except at one poi nt , wher e, af t er dar k,

t hey succeeded i n maki ng a l odgment and spent t he ni ght

wi t hi n Meade' s l i nes. I n t he mor ni ng t hey wer e dr i ven

out af t er a desper at e st r uggl e, and l at er i n t he day Lee

made a det er mi ned at t empt wi t h Longst r eet ' s cor ps t o br eak

t he l i ne agai n. He l ost t hr ee gener al s and about 4000

men i n t he gr eat ef f or t , and when i t f ai l ed, and he had t o

f al l back t o hi s own l i nes, t he back of t he Rebel l i on was

br oken and t he doom of sl aver y seal ed f or ever i n Nor t h

Amer i ca. At ni ght he went away sout h, l eavi ng most of

hi s wounded, but Meade was t oo much exhaust ed t o do

mor e t han f ol l ow sl owl y. I am wr i t i ng i n hot hast e t o

cat ch t he post , so can gi ve you no cl ear i dea, I f ear , of t he

gr eat day. The hot el was a ni ce, cl ean, r easonabl e pl ace,

wi t h a l andl or d and ser vant s r eal l y ci vi l , and we enj oyed

our excur si on mor e t han I can t el l you.

Next day we came on t o Bal t i mor e, dr ove as usual i n

t he beaut i f ul par k and about t he t own i n a car r i age sent f or

us by some pat r i ot i c ci t i zen, di ned at t he Uni on Cl ub, t o

whi ch t hey gave us t he ent r de, and came on t o Washi ngt on.

Washi ngt on, Fr i day.

You ask whet her I r ead our paper s and t he news f r om

Page 91 of 259

Eur ope. No, except j ust so f ar as t o keep abr east of t he

bar e f act s. You know how I hat e det ai l s of bat t l ef i el ds,

and t hat I have never got over my i nt ense di sl i ke t o t he

gl owi ng and semi - sci ent i f i c descr i pt i ons of " our own

cor r espondent s, " si t t i ng down i n t he mi dst of dyi ng and

agoni sed men t o do t hei r penny or gui nea a l i ne. The

dr y r epor t of a gener al or st af f of f i cer , whose sad dut y i t

Vacat i on Rambl es 167

i s t o be t her e, I f ol l ow wi t h t he deepest i nt er est , and

r ecogni se a bat t l ef i el d as one of t he ver y nobl est pl aces

f r om whi ch a t r ue man may make a " bee- l i ne t r ack " t o

heaven. The nobl est deat h i n our t i mes was Eober t

Shaw' s at t he at t ack on For t Wagner , at t he head of hi s

ni gger s, under whom he was bur i ed ; but , f or al l t hat ,

war and i t s det ai l s ar e a ghast l y and hor r i bl e evi l , whi ch

t he f ai t h of our Mast er i s goi ng yet t o r oot out of t hi s

si l l y ol d wor l d, and whi ch none of Hi s ser vant s shoul d

t ouch unl ess i t i s t he cl ear pat h of supr eme dut y.

I pi t y t he poor Fr ench, ut t er l y unmanned as t hey

seem t o be by t hi s ni net een year s of t he r ul e of Mammon,

and hear t i l y wi sh t hey coul d f i nd t hei r manhood agai n,

t hough I see no gl i mmer of i t yet . Tr ochu seems a f i ne

f el l ow, and I can' t hel p bel i evi ng t hat many of my ac -

quai nt ance and t he member s of t he Par i s associ at i ons, wi l l

be f ound r eady t o di e l i ke men on t he wal l s of t he ci t y i f

t hey get a chance. By t he way, wher e i s N- 1 I

wonder i f he has gone back 1 I f so, t her e i s anot her

br ave and t r ue man i n Par i s, and per haps t en may save

i t . But I must be get t i ng back t o my j our nal or I shal l

be dr oppi ng st i t ches. I f I don' t f or get , my l ast br ought

you wi t h us t o Wi l l ar d' s Hot el , Washi ngt on, a gr eat

t hr ee- hundr ed- r oomed hot el , mi xed, i f not of Sout her n

pr ocl i vi t i es dur i ng t he war , bef or e t he door of whi ch

mor e t han one duel was f ought i n t hose sear chi ng t i mes.

At br eakf ast we f ound our sel ves next t he War ds, f at her

and son, G. B ' s f r i ends, t o whom I had gi ven some

l et t er s. I f ound t hey had been even f ar t her west t han

we ; i n f act , up t o Denver Ci t y, i n t he bosom of t he l i ocky

Mount ai ns, and had al so managed t o get i nt o f our or

f i ve Sout her n st at es ; but t hey had done i t at t he sacr i f i ce

not onl y of comf or t but of t he chance of seei ng t he home-

l i f e of t he Amer i cans, and I val ue t he l at t er i nf i ni t el y

hi gher t han mer e si ght - seei ng, so do not r egr et t he l east

t hat we di dn' t get t hr ough t he ext r a 1500 mi l es, whi ch

at t he cost of f i ve days' mor e t r avel woul d have l et us

see t he Rocky Mount ai ns and shoot at buf f al oes.

1 68 Vacat i on Rambl es

We went af t er br eakf ast t o l eave some of my l et t er s,

Page 92 of 259

and over t he Whi t e House, a f i ne r esi dence of whi t e

mar bl e spl endi dl y si t uat ed some one and a hal f mi l es

f r om t he Capi t ol , wi t h whi ch i t i s connect ed by Pennsyl -

vani a avenue, wi der t han Por t l and Pl ace. I shal l keep

t he det ai l s t i l l we meet ; t he house i s as bi g as t he

Mansi on House I shoul d say, and not ver y unl i ke i t .

Lucki l y, soon af t er we got out si de we wer e r ecogni sed

( at l east I was) i n t he st r eet by Bl acki e, who was over i n

Engl and wi t h t he Har var d cr ew. He i s i n t he at t or ney -

gener al ' s of f i ce, and consequent l y has t he r un of al l t he

publ i c apar t ment s, and he t ook us i n hand and l i oni sed us

spl endi dl y. The Capi t ol Pat ent Of f i ce and Tr easur y I

shal l br i ng you phot ogr aphs of , and descr i be at l ei sur e i n

our wi nt er eveni ngs. The vi ew f r om t he t op, over t he

ci t y and Mar yl and t o t he nor t h, and acr oss t he Pot omac

over Vi r gi ni a t o t he sout h, i s as f i ne as any I ever saw,

Gener al Lee' s house at Ar l i ngt on Hei ght s, now a nat i onal

cemet er y, bei ng t he most conspi cuous poi nt i n t he

sout her n vi ew. The t hi ng t hat st r uck one most was t he

st af f of women, most l y young and many pr et t y, ser vi ng

i n t he Tr easur y. They say t her e ar e upwar ds of t wo

t housand, and t hat f or count i ng, sor t i ng, and r epai r i ng

t he paper cur r ency, t hey ar e f ar super i or t o men. They

ear n one t housand dol l ar s ( or

200) a y ear on an av er age.

Fanc y t he boon t o t he or phan gi r l s of s ol di er s and s ai l or s .

One of t he f i r s t we s aw was t he daught er of a v er y

di s t i ngui s hed Col onel of Mar i nes , who had l ef t her qui t e

des t i t ut e, as l ady l i k e, pr et t y - l ook i ng a gi r l as j ^ ou ev er

saw, and s he was r unni ng ov er bundl es of dol l ar not es

wi t h her f i nger s as f as t as i f s he wer e pl ay i ng t he ov er t ur e

t o Semi r ami de wi t h y ou on t he pi ano. I t near l y t ook

my br eat h away , and y et I was as s ur ed s he nev er made

an er r or i n c ount i ng. I wi s h we c oul d get of f a l ot of

our poor gi r l s i n s ome s uc h way i n Somer s et Hous e, and

send a l ob of our Gov er nment c l er k s t o t i l l t he gr ound or

hammer or do s ome har d, pr oduc t i v e wor k .

Per haps , howev er , t he pl eas ant es t par t of t he day was

Vac at i on Rambl es 169

t he end, when he t ook us of f on t he s t r eet - c ar s down t o

t he Pot omac , wher e we f ound a boat i ng c l ub, wi t h t hei r

boat - hous e, et c ' . , j us t l i k e an Ox f or d or Cambr i dge Col l ege.

Ther e wer e ei ght or t en of t hem down t her e who r ec ei v ed

us wi t h open ar ms , and i n a f ew mi nut es manned a heav y

ei ght - oar ed boat wi t h r oom enough f or me and R t o

si t i n t he s t er n, and away we went up under t he l ong

br i dge, ov er whi c h t he ar mi es us ed t o c r os s i n t he war

t i me, and s aw a gl or i ous s uns et on t he r i v er , wi t h t he

st ar s and s t r i pes f l oat i ng pr oudl y ov er our s t er n. I

enj oy ed t he r ow v as t l y and l i k ed t he men, who ar e j us t

t r ai ni ng f or a r ac e wi t h t he Pot omac c l ub. Boat i ng

f l our i s hes al l ov er t he s t at es I hav e been i n, and t hey

hav e l ear nt a l es s on f r om t hei r def eat t wo y ear s ago and

pul l now i n j us t as good s t y l e as our boy s . Ox f or d and

Cambr i dge mus t mi nd t hei r hi t s , f or t hey wi l l hav e a

t ough j ob of i t t he nex t t i me t hey hav e t o meet a c r ew

f r om t hi s s i de.

Page 93 of 259

Nex t mor ni ng I c al l ed on our mi ni s t er af t er br eak f as t ,

hav i ng hear d by c hanc e t hat he was i n t own. I am v er y

gl ad I di d, as I had t he pl eas ur e of hear i ng hi m pr ai s e

C , hi s abi l i t y , wi l l i ngnes s , and c apac i t y f or wor k , i n

a s t r ai n whi c h woul d hav e r ej oi c ed t he hear t of poor , dear

R. F— — and of t he F f ami l y . He s eems t o

t hi nk C wi l l c ome bac k her e, and des i r es i t mos t

ear nes t l y . I got f r om hi m Lor d Cl ar endon' s l as t des pat c h

on t he Al abama c l ai ms , whi c h wi l l be mos t us ef ul t o me

i n my s t ump i n t he Bos t on Mus i c Hal l on t he 11t h. I t

i s t he r oom and t he c our s e i n whi c h Wendel l Phi l l i ps ,

Emer s on, and al l t he or at or s and phi l os opher s f i gur e. 1

hav e t ak en f or my s ubj ec t , " J ohn t o J onat han, " s ugges t ed

by Lowel l ' s f amous " J onat han t o J ohn. " They won' t

get any el oquenc e or or at or y out of me, as y ou k now ; but

I am s ur e I c an s ay s ome t hi ngs i n a pl ai n, s t r ai ght -

f or war d way whi c h wi l l do good and hel p t o heal wounded

pr i de and ot her s or el y i r r i t at i ng pl ac es i n t he ov er - s ens i -

t i v e, but s i mpl e and gal l ant Yank ee mi nd. They hav e

t r eat ed me s o l i k e a s poi l t c hi l d f r om Bos t on t o Omaha

170 Vac at i on Rambl es

and bac k , t hat I k now t hey wi l l l et me s ay any t hi ng and

wi l l l i s t en t o i t af f ec t i onat el y . I r eal l y l ov e t hem t oo

wel l t o s ay any t hi ng t hat wi l l r eal l y hur t t hem, and

when t hey s ee t hat t hi s k i nd of f eel i ng and appr ec i at i on

i s genui ne, t he mor e t hor ough J ohn Bul l y ou ar e t he

bet t er t hey l i k e i t ; t hat i s , al l t he bes t of t hem, who r ul e

t he nat i on i n t he l ong r un t hough not di r ec t l y . When I

got bac k f r om our embas s y , i t was j us t t i me t o be s t ar t -

i ng f or t he t r ai n t o Phi l adel phi a, and l o ! t her e wer e a

doz en f ol k , f r om s ec r et ar i es of s t at e downwar ds , wai t i ng

t o of f er l odgi ngs , di nner s , ex c ur s i ons , l ec t ur i ngs , ev er y

sor t of k i ndnes s i n c r eat i on. I t was har d wor k t o get

of f , but I managed s omehow t o mak e t r ac k s , s uppr es s i ng,

I f ear , t he f ac t t hat I was not l i k el y t o get t o Was hi ngt on

agai n. The j our ney t o Phi l adel phi a i s v er y i nt er es t i ng

al ong t he c oas t , t hough s el dom wi t hi n s i ght of t he s ea,

but c r os s i ng huge i nl et s and r i v er s ( t he abode of c anv as -

bac k s ) on s pi der br i dges . We di dn' t c hange c ar s at

Bal t i mor e, but wer e dr opped by our engi ne i n t he out -

sk i r t s of t he t own. Si x f i ne hor s es i n a s t r i ng wer e

t hen hi t c hed on t o eac h l ong c ar , and away we went

t hr ough t he c r owded s t r eet s al ong t he t r amway r ai l s , our

dr i v er , or r at her , c onduc t or , f or he had no r ei ns , bl owi ng

hi s hor n l oudl y t o war n al l good peopl e, and s hout i ng t o

t he t r ai n of hor s es who t r ot t ed al ong by i ns t i nc t bet ween

t he r ai l s . How we mi s s ed f i f t y c ol l i s i ons I c an' t c onc ei v e ;

at l as t we had one — c r as h i nt o a c onf us i on of c ar t s and

dr ay s , dr i v en by s hout i ng negr oes who had got t hem al l

i nt o a hopel es s j am as we bor e down on t hem. Bang we

went i nt o t he near es t ; I s aw t he c omi c al , s c ar ed l ook of

t he gr i s l y ol d Sambo who was dr i v i ng, as he was s hot

f r om hi s s eat , but no har m was done ex c ept k noc k i ng of f

our own s t ep, and as we s hot pas t I s aw hi s f ac e l i ght up

i nt o a br oad gr i n as he s at on t he bot t om of hi s c ar t .

Page 94 of 259

We had c l ear ed hi m r i ght away f r om hi s dead- l oc k wi t h

t wo ot her v ehi c l es , and he went on hi s way del i ght ed.

At Phi l adel phi a we f ound our k i ndes t of hos t s , Fi el d,

wai t i ng s upper f or us i n hi s del i ght f ul hous e, wher e he i s

Vac at i on Rambl es 1 7 1

l i v i ng f or a f ew day s ' bus i nes s as a bac hel or . Qui et

ev eni ng, wi t h t al k t i l l el ev en o' c l oc k on al l manner of

pl ac es , peopl e, and t hi ngs , mos t l y Engl i s h. Li ppi nc ot t , t he

gr eat Amer i c an publ i s her , and Ros engar t en t o br eak f as t ,

t hen a v i s i t f r om Mor r i s on' s f r i end Wel s h, r epr oac hf ul

t hat we had not oc c upi ed hi s hous e, and f ul l of i nt er es t i ng

st or i es of t he I ndi an c ommi s s i on, of whi c h he i s t he

mov i ng s pi r i t . Then mor e s c hool s , wor k men' s hous es ,

et c . , wi t h Ros engar t en, and a dr i v e i n t he par k , f i v e mi l es

l ong on bot h s i des of t he r i v er Sc huy l k i l l ( as br oad as t he

Thames at Put ney ) , and wi t h v i ews c ombi ni ng Ri c hmond

Hi l l and Ox f or d. The Cent r al Par k i s not hi ng t o i t , or

any ot her I ev er s aw or hear d of . The Quak er c i t y of

whi t e mar bl e and r ed br i c k f as c i nat ed me mor e and mor e.

A mos t i nt er es t i ng di nner at Dr . Mi t c hel l ' s , a s c i ent i f i c

man — t al k of t he war , pr ai r i e s t or i es , Yank ee s t or i es ,

wonder f ul ol d Madei r a and ex c el l ent c i gar s . Thi s mor n-

i ng, af t er s eei ng Li ppi nc ot t ' s s t or e, and a mos t i nt er es t i ng

t al k wi t h Sher i dan' s adj ut ant - gener al on t he l as t c am-

pai gns ( he c ame t o br eak f as t ) , we l i t er al l y t or e our s el v es

away f r om Phi l adel phi a and c ame on her e t o t hi s s pl endi d,

gr eat , empt y hous e, t o be r ec ei v ed mos t hos pi t abl y by

Mar i a, t he bi g, hands ome, good- nat ur ed I r i s hwoman i n

char ge.

Ev er y t hi ng i s get t i ng s o c r owded wi t h me t hat I hav e

har dl y t i me t o t ur n r ound. Al l s or t s of k i nd f r i ends

ur gi ng me t o s t op j us t f or one day her e or t her e, a f ew

hundr ed mi l es mak i ng no di f f er enc e wi t h t hem, hundr eds

( al mos t ) of appl i c at i ons f or l ec t ur es or addr es s es , and ( he

engagement s al r eady made dr i v i ng me near l y wi l d t o

know how I am t o get t hr ough wi t h t hem. I s hal l nev er

get my j our nal s t r ai ght . AVher e was 1 1 Wi t h dear ol d

Pet er Cooper , t he s i mpl es t , mos t ut t er l y gui l el es s of ol d

men who ev er made a bi g f or t une i n t hi s wor l d or any

ot her , I s houl d t hi nk . That I r emember , but c an' t t he

l eas t get f ur t her . Not hi ng, howev er , v er y par t i c ul ar

happened, ex c ept t hat I was agai n c aught and had t o

speak a f ew wor ds t o t he Nor mal Tr ai ni ng Sc hool of New

172 Vac at i on Rambl es

Yor k , c ons i s t i ng of ni ne hundr ed gi r l s . I managed t o get

out of goi ng wi t h t he beaut i f ul Mi s s P t o her s c hool ,

but t hought I s houl d be s af e i n goi ng wi t h t he dear ol d

gent l eman t o t he Nor mal Sc hool t o be pr es ent at t he

mor ni ng s er v i c e. We wer e of c our s e on t he dai s , and Mr .

Cooper , af t er t he s i ngi ng of a hy mn, r ead a c hapt er of

Page 95 of 259

t he Bi bl e, t hen anot her hy mn, and t hen, i ns t ead of t he

adj our nment t o t hei r c l as s es at onc e, as 1 had ex j ^ ec t ed, I

was c al l ed upon. You mus t i magi ne what I s ai d, f or I

r eal l y don' t r emember . Then I was phot ogr aphed al one,

and wi t h Mr . Cooper . I enc l os e a pr oof of t he l at t er

whi c h, I hope, wi l l not qui t e f ade on t he way . They t el l

me t he pr i nt s wi l l be v er y good, and I hope t o hav e s ev er al

t o br i ng home. We l ef t on Wednes day by t he af t er -

noon boat t o Fal l Ri v er , t he f i nes t boat i n t he St at es , t he

gr eat c abi n of whi c h I s hal l br i ng y ou a phot ogr aph, al l

t he f ami l y gr ouped r ound t he door br eak i ng one down

wi t h t hei r k i ndnes s . I s l ept as us ual f amous l y on boar d

t he Br i s t ol , and wak ed at Fal l Ri v er about t hr ee, and s o

on by r ai l t o Bos t on, and by c ar up her e, wher e I f eel

qui t e at home. Mi s s Mabel appear ed at br eak f as t , and

pr oduc ed her phot ogr aphs made at t he t i me of our l as t

vi s i t wi t h gr eat t r i umph. They ar e ex c el l ent , and I s hal l

br i ng y ou l ot s of t hem. At el ev en was t he Har v ar d

memor i al c er emony on t he l ay i ng of t he c or ner - s t one of

t he hal l t hey ar e bui l di ng i n honour of t he member s who

di ed i n t he war . I wal k ed i n wi t h Mr A- and hear d

a good ac c ount of hi s wi f e and f ami l y . They want me t o

go out t her e f or a qui et day or t wo, but , I f ear , i t i s qui t e

i mpos s i bl e. Two of hi s s ons , t he Col onel , and our f r i end

Henr y , who i s j us t named as one of t he l ec t ur er s , wer e

t her e al s o, and Emer s on, Dana, and a number of ol d and

new f r i ends . The c er emony was v er y s i mpl e, Lut her ' s

hy mn, a s hor t ex t empor e pr ay er , a r epor t , and t wo

addr es s es , and t he benedi c t i on, and t hen we j us t br ok e up

and l ef t t he gr eat t ent as we pl eas ed. The poi nt of

gr eat es t i nt er es t was , of c our s e, t he gat her i ng of s ome

sev ent y or ei ght y of t hos e who had been i n t he ar my ,

Vac at i on Rambl es i 7 3

al mos t al l i n t hei r ol d uni f or ms , and many of t hem c ar r y -

i ng t he mar k s of war about t hem t oo pl ai nl y . Col onel

Hol mes amongs t t hem as ni c e as ev er , and y oung F

and Gener al M — — ,

wi t h hal f a doz en ot her gener al s .

Lunc h af t er war ds at a v er y quai nt and at t r ac t i v e l i t t l e

cl ub f ounded i n 1792, and r ec r ui t ed by a f ew of t he bes t

f el l ows i n eac h y ear , l i k e t he Apos t l es at our Cambr i dge.

Longf el l ow and our f r i end Fi el d c ame t o di ne her e, and

t he poet was f as c i nat i ng, f ul l of hi s Engl i s h doi ngs , and

geni al and modes t as a bi g man s houl d be. To- day I

hav e been pr epar i ng f or my l ec t ur e, " J ohn t o J onat han, "

whi c h c omes of t " nex t Tues day , as t o whi c h I am c ons i der -

abl y anx i ous , as i t i s ex c eedi ngl y di f f i c ul t t o get a l i ne

whi c h wi l l hav e t he heal i ng ef f ec t I i nt end. Let us hope

f or t he bes t . I go f or Sunday t o Lowel l ' s br ot her ' s s c hool ,

t went y mi l es away . On Monday ev eni ng I meet t he

Har v ar d under gr aduat es , and on Wednes day s pend t he

day wi t h Emer s on at Conc or d. On Thur s day I hope t o

get away , but wher e 1 Al l our pl ans ar e c hangi ng. " We

now pr opos e, i f i t c an be s o ar r anged, t o go f i r s t t o

Mont r eal f or t wo or t hr ee day s t o pi c k up our t hi ngs ,

r et ur ni ng t o I t hac a t o Gol dwi n Smi t h f or a l ong day

about t he 1 8t h, and s o t o New Yor k , f r om whi c h we s houl d

Page 96 of 259

sai l about t he 22nd. You wi l l , I dar esay, be gl ad t hat we

don' t go f r om Quebec ; but I don' t bel i eve t her e i s t he

l east mor e danger at t hi s t i me of year by t hi s r out e t han

any ot her . Al l I have r esol ved on i s, t hat not hi ng shal l

keep me beyond my t i me.

St . Mar k' s School , Sout hbor ougi i , Mass. ,

Tucxdi ni , 9t h Or t ubi T.

We have had a ver y char mi ng vi si t t o t hi s l i t t l e vi l l age,

t went y mi l es f r om Bost on, i n whi ch i s est abl i shed a Chur ch

of Engl and boar di ng- school , model l ed as near l y as possi bl e

on our publ i c school syst em, and i nt ended t o do f or

Amer i can boys pr eci sel y what Et on, Rugby, et c. , do f or

our s. I am not sur e t hat such school s ar e want ed her e.

174 Vacat i on Rambl es

Wer e I l i vi ng her e I shoul d cer t ai nl y t r y t he publ i c

school s f i r st f or my boys. But t hey say t hat t he t each-

i ng t her e i s t oo f or ci ng i n t he ear l i er st ages, and af t er -

war ds not l i ber al enough i n t he di r ect i on of " t he

humani t i es, " so t hat t he boys " get t r ai ned mor e i nt o com-

pet i t i ve money- maki ng machi nes t han i nt o t hi nki ng-

cul t i vat ed men. Ther e i s a ver y consi der abl e demand

at any r at e f or t hi s ki nd of school , as t hi s i s onl y one

of sever al i n New Engl and. Ther e i s an obj ect i on t oo

amongst New Engl and mot her s. I f i nd t hat t he hi gh

school s ( as I ought t o cal l t hem, and not publ i c school s)

bei ng open t o ever y one, a l ar ge cl ass of I r i sh and ot her

r ecent ar r i val s go t her e whose manner s and l anguage

make t hem danger ous cl ass- mat es f or t hei r own chi l dr en.

At any r at e, St . Mar k' s school i s a successf ul f act , and see-

i ng how f ast t hey go ahead her e I shoul dn' t be ast oni shed

t o hear t hat i n a f ew year s i t i s as bi g as Rugby. Dr .

Lowel l i s t he pr i nci pal , and a f i r st - r at e one, a Hi gh Chur ch

of Engl and cl er gyman, not a r i t ual i st . The school i s

f ounded as a denomi nat i onal one, wi t h a l i t t l e chancel ,

whi ch opens f r om t he end of t he bi g school r oom, and i n

whi ch t he doct or , i n hi s r obes, r eads our pr ayer s mor ni ng

and eveni ng t o t he boys. He and hi s f ami l y l i ve ent i r el y

wi t h t he boys, t aki ng al l t hei r meal s i n t he hal l , and t her e

i s no f aggi ng, t he moni t or s havi ng no power or r esponsi -

bi l i t y, except j ust t o keep or der i n t he school r oom at

cer t ai n hour s. They have a mont hl y r ecept i on of t he

f r i ends f r om t he nei ghbour hood, whi ch t ook pl ace on

Sat ur day eveni ng. Al l t he boys wer e t her e, and handed

r ound i ces, cakes, and t ea t o some t hi r t y l adi es and

gent l emen who came i n, i ncl udi ng sever al of t he t r ust ees,

a j udge whom I had met i n Engl and, a nei ghbour i ng

squi r e ( Bost on mer chant by pr of essi on) , who i s f ar mi ng

l ar gel y down t her e, r ecl ai mi ng t he st ony l ands and get t i ng

up a most beaut i f ul her d of cat t l e. Of cour se I had t o

" addr ess a f ew wor ds " t o t hem, al l whi ch t hey t ook

most ki ndl y. On Sunday we had t wo Chur ch of Engl and

ser vi ces i n t he pr et t y par i sh chur ch, a copy of one i n

Page 97 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 175

Engl and, t he pl ans of whi ch t he Squi r e, Bar t l et t , had

br ought over . We di ned i n t he mi ddl e of t he day at hi s

house, whi ch woul d be a good squi r e' s house at home.

The f ami l y wer e ver y ni ce — a sweet , pr et t y wi f e, a st r ap-

pi ng gr eat el dest son now at Har var d, and good i n al l

ways. He i s bent on goi ng out West as soon as he i s

t hr ough col l ege, and, as a pr epar at i on, hi r ed hi msel f out

t o a f ar mer t hi s summer vacat i on, ear ned t en dol l ar s a

week f or some t wo mont hs at hoei ng and ot her har d

wor k, and t hen had a spor t i ng r un t o Canada. Two mor e

bi g sons and any number of younger chi l dr en. The house

was t ast ef ul l y f ur ni shed wi t h some r eal l y good pi ct ur es,

and al t oget her i t was as ni ce a home as I have seen her e.

On Monday we got back t o dear El mwood, and I went

har d at wor k on my l ect ur e. Newspaper men came

buzzi ng about al l day and sei zi ng my MS. as I got

t hr ough wi t h i t . Al so came up Jul i an H , one of t he

Char t i st pr i soner s of 1848. I had known hi m i n t he

soci al i st t i mes, and I had al ways a r espect and l i ki ng f or

hi m, but he had qui t e sl i pped out of si ght f or some

ei ght een year s. Hi s er r and t ouched me. He r emi nded

me ( whi ch I had ent i r el y f or got t en) t hat he had appl i ed

t o Lor d R i n 1851 f or a l oan of

20 whi c h had been

adv anc ed t o hi m t hr ough me. He t ol d t he l ong s t or y of

hi s l i f e s i nc e, f ul l of i nt er es t ; I mus t k eep i t t i l l we meet .

At l as t he l anded i n t he Mas s ac hus s et s s t at e hous e, wher e

he i s a Gov er nment c l er k , on a s mal l s al ar y f or t hi s

count r y , but out of i t he has s av ed a f ew hundr ed dol l ar s ,

and t he obj ec t of hi s v i s i t was t o s ay t hat he was now

anx i ous t o pay hi s ol d debt wi t h many hear t y t hank s t o

Lor d R — — .

Woul d I s et t l e whet her he s houl d pay f or

i nt er es t , and he woul d go and dr aw i t out and s end i t by

me 1 I s ai d I c oul dn' t s ay whet her our f r i end woul d t ak e

i nt er es t , or at what r at e, but pr omi s ed t o l et hi m k now

when I got bac k , s o t hat he c an r emi t t he ex ac t amount

t o London. Ev en he has nev er t ak en up hi s c i t i z ens hi p

her e, but r emai ns an Engl i s hman, and means at any r at e

t o c ome bac k and di e i n t he ol d c ount r y . I n t he ev eni ng

i 76 Vac at i on Rambl es

we went down t o a gat her i ng of al l t he Har v ar d s t udent s

who had pet i t i oned me t o c ome and t al k t o t hem. They

wer e gat her ed s ome f i v e hundr ed s t r ong i n t he Mas s a-

chus et t s Hal l , and a f i ner and manl i er s et of boy s I hav e

nev er s een. I t al k ed t o t hem on Mus c ul ar Chr i s t i ani t y

and i t s pr oper l i mi t s , as t hey ar e l i k el y t o r un i nt o pr o-

f es s i onal at hl et i c s l i k e our boy s at home. Tol d t hem t hey

l i v ed i n a l and whi c h had " s t r uc k He " and was s o ov er f l ow-

i ng wi t h weal t h t hat ev er y one was has t i ng t o get r i c h t oo

qui c k . Ex hor t ed t o pat i enc e and t hor oughnes s ; r ead t o

t hem Lowel l ' s " Hebe " ( y ou r emember t he l i t t l e gem of a

poem) ; t ol d t hem t hey ought t o t ak e mor e par t i n publ i c

af f ai r s t han t hei r c l as s us ual l y do. Al l whi c h t hey

swal l owed dev out l y , and c heer ed v ehement l y , l i k e good

boy s , and t hen s ang a l ot of t hei r c ol l ege s ongs : " Mar c h-

Page 98 of 259

i ng t hr ough Geor gi a " s pl endi d, t he r es t muc h l i k e our

own. The war has gi v en a magni f i c ent l i f t t o al l t he

young men and boy s of t hi s c ount r y , and I t hi nk t he r i s i ng

gener at i on wi l l put Amer i c a i n a v er y di f f er ent pl ac e f r om

t hat whi c h s he hol ds now. Las t ni ght I gav e my l ec t ur e

i n t he Mus i c Hal l , whi c h was c r ammed, and t he whol e

af f ai r a br i l l i ant s uc c es s . " J ohn t o J onat han " i s pr i nt ed

ver bat i m i n t he mor ni ng news paper s , s o y ou wi l l pr obabl y

see i t bef or e I get bac k , and I t hi nk l i k e i t . No mor e

t i me f or t he moment .

I t hac a, N. Y. , \ Mi Oc t ober 1870.

I mi s s ed t he l as t mai l t hr ough s t r es s of wor k , c hi ef l y

on my l ec t ur e, whi c h I ment i oned i n my l as t . The

appl i c at i ons f or l ec t ur es wer e s o numer ous and ur gent

t hat I r eal l y f el t t hat I ought not t o l eav e t he c ount r y

wi t hout gi v i ng one at any r at e, and al l my f r i ends s ai d

t hat t he Mus i c Hal l at Bos t on was t he pl ac e i f I onl y

spok e onc e. I t i s t he l ar ges t r oom i n New Engl and, hol ds

near l y t hr ee t hous and peopl e, i s eas y t o s peak i n, t hough i t

has gr eat deep gal l er i es r unni ng r ound t hr ee s i des , and i n

i t al l t he bi g f ol k t al k and l ec t ur e. Wendel l Phi l l i ps and

Vac at i on Rambl es i 7 7

Sumner f ol l ow me, s o y ou s ee t he c l as s of t hi ng at onc e.

Wel l , as I was i n f or i t muc h agai ns t my wi l l , I was

det er mi ned t o t al k out wi t h t he whol e Yank ee nat i on t he

cont r ov er s y whi c h I had been c ar r y i ng on al r eady wi t h

many of t hem i n pr i v at e. I was anx i ous not t o l eav e

t hem wi t h any f al s e i mpr es s i ons , and t o l et t hem s ee c l ear l y

t hat i n our nat i onal di f f er enc es I t hi nk t hat we hav e a

ver y good c as e, and t hat ev en i f I di dn' t t hi nk s o, I am t oo

good a J ohn Bul l not t o s t and by my own c ount r y .

Lowel l agr eed as t o t he t i t l e and obj ec t , but I t hi nk had

ser i ous mi s gi v i ngs as t o how t he af f ai r mi ght t ur n out .

Mundel l a t hought i t v er y r i s k y and s o di d mos t ot her

f ol k . Howev er , as y ou k now, I don' t c ar e a s t r aw f or

appl aus e, and do c ar e about s peak i ng my own mi nd,

so whet her i t made me unpopul ar or not I det er mi ned t o

hav e my s ay . I n or der t hat I mi ght s ay not hi ng on t he

spur of t he moment , I wr ot e out t he whol e addr es s c ar e-

f ul l y , and I am v er y gl ad I di d, as t he r epor t er s al l c opi ed

f r om my MS. , and c ons equent l y I was t hor oughl y wel l

r epor t ed. The Tr i bune and Bos t on Adv er t i s er pr i nt ed

i t i n f ul l , and I wi l l br i ng y ou home c opi es . I was

a l i t t l e ner v ous my s el f when I got t o t he hal l . Two

ex - Gov er nor s and t he pr es ent Gov er nor of t he St at e wer e

on t he pl at f or m, t he t wo Senat or s ( Sumner and Wi l s on) ,

Longf el l ow, J udge Hoar e, Dana, Wendel l Hol mes , Wendel l

Phi l l i ps , Lowel l , and, i n s hor t , pr et t y near l y al l t he

Bos t on bi g wi gs . The gr eat or gan pl ay ed " God s av e t he

Queen " as I c ame i n, and t he audi enc e, gener al l y , I am t ol d,

a v er y undemons t r at i v e one, c heer ed hear t i l y . My ner v ous -

nes s , howev er , wor e of f at onc e, when I got on my l egs .

I f ound t hat my v oi c e f i l l ed t he hal l eas i l y , and s o was at

my eas e and got t hr ough j us t wi t hi n t he hour , wi t hout

onc e l os i ng t he at t ent i on of t he audi enc e f or a mi nut e.

They wer e i ndeed wonder f ul l y s y mpat het i c and hear t y , and

Page 99 of 259

gav e me t hr ee r ounds of c heer s at t he end, f ar mor e

war ml y t han at t he begi nni ng. Ev er y one c ame and s ai d

t hat i t was a gr eat s uc c es s ; t hat t hey had nev er hear d our

si de f ai r l y s t at ed bef or e; t hat t hi s and t hat f ac t wer e qui t e

N

I y S Vac at i on Rambl es

new t o t hem, et c . I n f ac t , i f I di dn' t k now how s oon

t he r eac t i on c omes i n s uc h c as es , I s houl d t hi nk I had

done s ome good wor k t owar ds a bet t er under s t andi ng

bet ween t he nat i ons , and, as i t i s , I am s ur e I hav e done

no har m, and hav e at any r at e made my own pos i t i on

per f ec t l y c l ear , and s hown t hem t hat i n t he ev ent of a

quar r el , t hey c an' t r ec k on upon me f or any k i nd of

sy mpat hy or ai d. Af t er t he l ec t ur e whom s houl d I meet

as I went out but Cr af t , t he negr o who had been t he

caus e of one of t he mos t ex c i t i ng meet i ngs ev er hel d i n

t hat hal l s ome t went y y ear s bef or e, when t he at t empt

was made t o s ei z e hi m and hi s wi f e i n Bos t on. I was

del i ght ed t o s ee hi m and t o hear a c api t al ac c ount of hi s

ex per i ment at as s oc i at i on i n Geor gi a. Then I went t o

Fi el d' s , t he publ i s her , t o s upper , wher e wer e Longf el l ow,

Hol mes , Dana, and ot her s , and s o home by t he l as t c ar ,

t hank f ul t hat i t was al l wel l ov er . Nex t mor ni ng I got a

cheque f or 250 dol l ar s ( < 50) . I had, of c our s e, nev er s ai d

a wor d about any pay ment , s o i t was an agr eeabl e s ur pr i s e.

The pos t br ought me I k now not how many l et t er s , beg-

gi ng me t o l ec t ur e i n a doz en s t at es on my own t er ms , s o

when al l t r ades f ai l , I c an c ome ov er her e and ear n a good

l i v i ng eas i l y enough, whi c h i s a c ons ol at i on. Wednes day ,

our l as t whol e day wi t h t he dear Lowel l s , I s pent peac e-

abl y . Went t o hi s l ec t ur e i n t he Uni v er s i t y on Ar t hur i an

l egends ; Mi s s Mabel phot ogr aphed t he hous e and us i n

gr oups , and we t al k ed and l oaf ed. I n t he ev eni ng a s upper at

t he hous e of one of t he pr of es s or s , t o meet t he whol e s t af f ,

and a pl eas ant er or abl er s et of men I hav e nev er c ome ac r os s .

Thur s day , l unc h wi t h Longf el l ow af t er pac k i ng, t hen a r un

down on t he c ar t o Bos t on, t o c hange my c heque, t o t ak e

a ber t h on a pac k et , s o as t o be ar med agai ns t any appeal s

f or anot her day or t wo i n New Yor k , and t o get a l as t l ook

at t he f av our i t e poi nt s i n t he ol d Pur i t an c api t al , t he pl ac e

wher e I s houl d c er t ai nl y s et t l e i f I ev er had t o l eav e Engl and.

We dr ov e a r at her s ad par t y t o Mr s . Lowel l ' s s i s t er , and

t he mot her of t he beaut i f ul boy whos e phot ogr aph we

hav e, and who was k i l l ed ear l y i n t he war , t o t ea, and

Vac at i on Rambl es 179

f r om her hous e went t o t he s t at i on and t ook s l eepi ng- c ar

f or Sy r ac us e. I c annot t el l y ou how I l i k e Lowel l and

al l hi s bel ongi ngs . I t i s a danger ous t hi ng t o mak e

ac quai nt anc e i n t he f l es h wi t h one wi t h whos e wr i t i ngs

one i s s o f ami l i ar , but he has qui t e c ome up t o my i dea of

hi m, and hi s wi f e and Mi s s Mabel ar e bot h v er y c har mi ng

i n t hei r own way s . I s l ept wel l , wok e at Al bany , br eak -

f as t ed, and t hen on t o Sy r ac us e, wher e Mr . Wans ey ,

Mr s . Hami l t on' s unc l e, l i v es . We got t her e at t wo, and I

was i mmedi at el y s ei z ed at t he s t at i on by Wi l k i ns on, t he

Page 100 of 259

l oc al bank er , whom I had j us t met at Ned' s t hi s s ummer .

He dr ov e us al l t hr ough and r ound t he mos t c har ac t er i s t i c

t own i n Amer i c a. Gr eat br oad s t r eet s l i ned wi t h l ov el y

mapl e t r ees , al l t ur ned now t o c l ouds of s c ar l et and gol d ;

down t he pr i nc i pal one t he r ai l way r uns wi t hout any

f enc e. Ol d Mr . Wans ey and ot her s c ame t o di ne, he a

dear ol d man of ei ght y , but hal e and hands ome, r at her l i k e

my c l ear ol d gr andf at her ' s pi c t ur e, t he r es t pl eas ant c ount r y

f ol k . " We pl ay ed bi l l i ar ds , and t ol d s t or i es af t er di nner ,

and had a dec i dedl y good t i me t i l l near l y mi dni ght . The

nex t mor ni ng we br eak f as t ed wi t h Mr . Whi t e, t he Pr es i dent

of t hi s new Uni v er s i t y , and c ame on her e wi t h hi m. He

i s a y oung man of about t hi r t y - f i v e, and one of t he f i nes t

sc hol ar s Amer i c a has t o boas t of at pr es ent . By t he way ,

he was a c l as s mat e of Smal l ey at Yal e. He i s a r i c h man,

and he has not hi ng what ev er t o gai n by under t ak i ng t hi s

wor k . I n s hor t , he i s qui t e wor t hy of hav i ng Gol dwi n

Smi t h as a f el l ow- wor k er , and bet ween t hem, wi t h t he ex -

cel l ent s t af f of pr of es s or s and t eac her s t hey hav e got

r ound t hem, I ex pec t t hey wi l l mak e t hi s pl ac e i n

a wondr ous s hor t t i me a gr eat wor k i ng- men' s c ol l ege.

Ev er y t hi ng i s of c our s e r ough at pr es ent , as t he bui l di ngs

ar e s t i l l i n pr ogr es s , but t wo bl oc k s ar e c ompl et ed, and

t her e ar e about s ev en hundr ed pupi l s l i v i ng i n t hem and

i n t he t own at t he bot t om of t he hi l l on whi c h Cor nel l

st ands . I t i s a mos t magni f i c ent s i t uat i on, l ook i ng ov er a

l ar ge l ak e, f or t y mi l es l ong, and t wo s pl endi d v al l ey s ,

whi c h ar e now abl az e wi t h t he c r i ms on and pur pl e c ol our s

i 8o Vac at i on Rambl es

of t he mapl es , s humac hs , Amer i c an wal nut s , and ot her

t r ees , whi c h mak e t he hi l l s i des her e gl ow al l t he l at er

aut umn t hr ough. We f ound Gol dwi n Smi t h wai t i ng f or

us at t he whar f and l ook i ng muc h s t r onger t han he us ed

t o do i n Engl and, and qui t e war m i n hi s wel c ome. Al l

t he pr of es s or s , wi t h t hei r wi v es and f ami l i es , i f mar r i ed,

l i v e f or t he pr es ent i n a huge s quar e bl oc k of bui l di ngs

or i gi nal l y i nt ended f or a hy dr opat hi c es t abl i s hment , i n

whi c h t hey hav e a pr i v at e s i t t i ng- r oom and bedr ooms and

di ne and t ak e al l meal s i n t he hal l . You may f anc y how

muc h I am i nt er es t ed i n t hi s gr eat pr ac t i c al s t ep t owar ds

as s oc i at i on.

New Yor k , Tues day .

Her e I am i n t he gr eat c i t y agai n, t o s pend t he l as t f ew

day s bef or e my s t ar t f or home. The r ec ept i on i n t he

gr eat hal l , s peec h, v i s i t t o l ec t ur e r ooms , et c . , ent hus i as m

of boy s , bas ebal l games , and f oot bal l gi v en i n my honour ,

mus t al l k eep t i l l we meet . For , al as ! I hav e no t i me t o

spend her e f or wr i t i ng, as I hav e anot her addr es s t o gi v e

bef or e I s t ar t , on Fr i day ev eni ng, and I mus t wr i t e i t

car ef ul l y , as i t i s t o be on t he l abour ques t i on, whi c h i s

mi ght i l y ex er c i s i ng our c ous i ns her e. They ar e get t i ng

i nt o t he c ont r ov er s y whi c h we ar e near l y t hr ough at home,

and i f I c an gi v e t hem a l i t t l e good adv i c e bef or e I c ome

away , I s hal l be v er y gl ad. As I am engaged ev er y ev en-

i ng, i t wi l l not be eas y t o f i nd t i me t o do i t as I s houl d

l i k e, but I c an gi v e t he mor ni ng, I t hi nk , and c an at any

r at e mak e s ur e of not t al k i ng nons ens e.

Page 101 of 259

AMERI CA— 1880 t o 1887

The Cumber l and Mount ai ns

East Tennessee, 1st Sept ember 1880.

Her e I am at my goal , and so f ul l of new i mpr essi ons

t hat I must put some of t hem down at once, l est t hey

shoul d sl i p away l i ke t he new ki nd of r ecr ui t s, and I

shoul d not be abl e t o l ay my hand on t hem agai n when I

want t hem. The above addr ess i s vague, as t hi s r ange of

hi ghl ands ext ends f or some 200 mi l es t hr ough t hi s St at e

and Kent ucky ; but , t hough f i xed as f at e mysel f , I can

f or t he moment put no mor e def i ni t e headi ng t o my

l et t er s. The name of t he t own t hat i s t o be, and whi ch

i s al r eady l ai d out and i n cour se of bui l di ng her e, i s a

mat t er of pr of ound i nt er est t o many per sons, and not t o

be deci ded hast i l y. The onl y poi nt whi ch seems cl ear i s

t hat i t wi l l be some name r ound whi ch cl ust er t ender

memor i es i n t he ol d Mot her l and. We ar e some 1800

f eet above t he sea, and af t er t he gr eat heat of New Yor k,

Newpor t , and Ci nci nnat i , t he f r eshness and del i ght of

t hi s br i sk, mount ai n ai r ar e qui t e past descr i bi ng. For

mer e physi cal enj oyment , I have cer t ai nl y never f el t i t s

equal , and can i magi ne not hi ng f i ner .

And now f or our j our ney down. We l ef t Ci nci nnat i

ear l y i n t he mor ni ng by t he Ci nci nnat i Sout her n Rai l way,

a l i ne bui l t ent i r el y by t he ci t y, and t he cost of whi ch

wi l l pr obabl y make t he muni ci pal i t y poor f or some year s

t o come. But i t seems t o me a spl endi d and sagaci ous

1 82 Vacat i on Rambl es

act of f or esi ght i n a gr eat communi t y, t o have bol dl y

t aken hol d of and opened up at once what must be one,

i f not t he mai n, ar t er y of communi cat i on bet ween Nor t h

and Sout h i n t he f ut ur e. I bel i eve t he i mpel l i ng mot i ve

was t he t endency of t he car r yi ng t r ade of l at e year s t o

set t l e al ong ot her r out es, l eavi ng t he met r opol i s of t he

sout h- west out i n t he col d. I f t hi s be so, t he r esul t

j ust i f i es t he pr ompt cour age of t he ci t i zens of Ci nci nnat i ,

f or t he t i de has obvi ousl y set i n agai n wi t h a vengeance.

The passenger - car s ar e f i l l ed t o t he ut most of t hei r

capaci t y, and f r ei ght , as we know her e t oo wel l , i s of t en

del ayed f or days, i n spi t e of al l t he ef f or t s of t he excel l ent

st af f of t he r oad. Besi des i t s t hr ough t r af f i c, t he l i ne has

opened up an ent i r el y new count r y, of whi ch t hese hi gh-

l ands seem l i kel y t o pr ove a pr of i t abl e, as t hey cer t ai nl y

ar e t he most i nt er est i ng, t r act . Thi s sect i on has not been

open f or si x mont hs, and al r eady i t i s waki ng up l i f e al l

over t hese spar sel y- set t l ed r egi ons. Down bel ow on t he

way t o Chat anooga I hear t hat t he ef f ect i s t he same,

and t hat i n t hat gr eat mi ner al r egi on bl ast - f ur naces ar e

al r eady at wor k, and coal - mi nes openi ng al l al ong t he

l i ne. At Chat anooga t her e ar e connect i ons wi t h al l t he

gr eat Sout her n l i nes, so t hat we on t hi s aer i al hei ght ar e,

i n t hese si x mont hs, i n di r ect communi cat i on wi t h ever y

i mpor t ant seapor t f r om Bost on t o New Or l eans, and

al most ever y gr eat cent r e of i nl and popul at i on ; and t he

set t l er s her e, l ooki ng f or war d wi t h t hat st ur dy f ai t h

Page 102 of 259

whi ch seems t o i nspi r e al l who have br eat hed t he ai r f or

a week or t wo, ar e al r eady consi der i ng upon whi ch

f avour ed mar t t hey shal l pour out t hei r abundance of

f r ui t s and t obacco, f r om t he t r ees yet t o be pl ant ed and

seed yet t o be sown. Al l whi ch seems t o pr ove t hat

Ci nci nnat i , at any r at e, has done wel l t o adopt t he mot t o,

" L' audace, t ouj our s l ' audace, " whi ch i s, i ndeed, char act er -

i st i c of t hi s count r y and t hi s t i me.

And t he bi g wor k has not onl y been done, but done

wel l and per manent l y. The engi neer i ng di f f i cul t i es must

have been ver y gr eat • t he cut t i ngs and t unnel s had t o be

Vacat i on Rambl es 183

made t hr ough har d r ock, and t he br i dges over st r eams

whi ch have cut f or t hemsel ves channel s hundr eds of f eet

deep. We cr ossed t he Kent ucky r i ver , on ( I bel i eve)

t he hi ghest r ai l way br i dge i n t he wor l d, 283 f eet above

t he wat er ; and r ushed f r om a t unnel i n t he l i mest one

r ock r i ght on t o t he br i dge whi ch spans t he nor t h f or k of

t he Cumber l and r i ver , 170 f eet bel ow. The l i ght ness of

t he i r onwor k on whi ch t hese br i dges r est st ar t l es one at

f i r st , but exper i ence has shown t hem t o be saf e, and t he

t est s t o whi ch t hey have been put on t hi s l i ne woul d have

t r i ed most ser i ousl y t he st r engt h of f ar mor e massi ve

st r uct ur es. But i t i s onl y i n i t s br i dges t hat t he Ci n-

ci nnat i Sout her n Rai l way has a l i ght appear ance. The

bui l di ng of t he l i ne has a sol i d and per manent l ook,

j ust i f yi ng, I shoul d t hi nk, t he ver y consi der abl e sum per

mi l e whi ch has been spent on i t above t he or di nar y cost

i n t hi s count r y. And by t he onl y t est whi ch an amat eur

i s as wel l abl e t o appl y as an exper t , t hat of wr i t i ng on a

j our ney, I can t est i f y t hat i t i s as smoot hl y l ai d as t he

aver age of our l eadi ng Engl i sh l i nes. For t he l ast f i f t y

mi l es we r an al most ent i r el y t hr ough f or est s, whi ch ar e,

however , f al l i ng r api dl y al l al ong t he si de of t he l i ne, and

yi el di ng pl ace t o cor n- f i el ds i n t he r i ch bot t oms, wher ever

any r easonabl y l evel gr ound bor der ed t he wat er - cour ses,

up whi ch we coul d gl ance as we hur r i ed past . I was

sur pr i sed, and, I need not say, gr eat l y pl eased, t o see

t he appar ent l y excel l ent t er ms on whi ch t he whi t e and

col our ed peopl e wer e, even i n t he Kukl ux r egi ons t hr ough

whi ch we came. A Nor t her n expr ess man, our compani on

at t hi s poi nt , denounced i t as t he most l awl ess i n t he

Uni t ed St at es. About one hundr ed homi ci des, he decl ar ed,

had t aken pl ace i n t he l ast year , and no convi ct i on had

been obt ai ned, t he j ur i es l ooki ng on such t hi ngs as r e-

gr et t abl e acci dent s. Thi s may be so, but I can, at any

r at e, t est i f y, f r om car ef ul obser vat i on of t he mi xed gangs

of wor kmen on t he r oad, and t he gr oups gat her ed at t he

numer ous st at i ons, t o t he f ami l i ar and appar ent l y f r i endl y

f oot i ng on whi ch t he r aces met . As f or t he decr ease of

184 Vacat i on Rambl es

t he bl acks, i t must be i n ot her r egi ons t han t hose t r aver sed

by t he Ci nci nnat i Sout her n Bai l way, f or t he cabi ns we

passed i n t he cl ear i ngs and r ound t he st at i ons swar med

wi t h smal l ur chi ns, cl ad i n si ngl e gar ment s, t he most comi c

Page 103 of 259

l i t t l e f i gur es of f un, gener al l y, t hat one had ever seen, as

t hey st ood st ar i ng and si gnal l i ng t o t he t r ai n. Ther e i s

somet hi ng t o me so pr ovocat i ve of mi r t h i n t he r ace, and

I have f ound t hem gener al l y such ki ndl y f ol k, t hat I

r egr et t hei r absence f r om t hi s same Al pi ne set t l ement , —

a r egr et not shar ed, doubt l ess, by t he f ew househol der s,

t o whom t hei r const ant smal l pecul at i ons must be ver y

t r yi ng.

About f i ve we st opped at t he st at i on f r om whi ch t hi s

pl ace i s r eached, and t ur ni ng out on t he pl at f or m wer e

gr eet ed by f our or f i ve young Engl i shmen, who had pr e-

ceded us, on one er r and or anot her , ever y one of whom

was wel l known t o me i n or di nar y l i f e, but whom f or t he

f i r st moment I di d not r ecogni se. I had seen t hem l ast

cl ot hed i n t he f r ock- coat and st ove- pi pe hat of our much-

vaunt ed ci vi l i sat i on, and behol d, her e was a gr oup whi ch I

can compar e t o not hi ng l i kel y t o be f ami l i ar t o your

r eader s, unl ess i t be t he company of t he Dani t es, as t hey

have been pl ayi ng i n London. Br oad- br i mmed st r aw or

f el t hat s, t he l at t er ver y bat t er ed and wor se f or wear ;

dar k- bl ue j er seys, or f l annel shi r t s of var yi ng hue ; br eeches

and gai t er s, or l ong boot s, wer e t he pr evai l i ng, I t hi nk I

may say t he uni ver sal cost ume, var i ed accor di ng t o t he

t ast e of t he wear er wi t h bi t s of br i ght col our l ai d on i n

handker chi ef at neck or wai st . And t ast es var i ed del i -

ci ousl y, t wo of t he par t y showi ng r eal l y a f i ne f eel i ng f or

t he par t , and one, our geol ogi st , 6 f t . 2 i n. i n hi s st ocki ngs,

and a mi ght y Et oni an and Cant ab, i n br ai ns as wel l as bul k,

t ur ni ng out , wi t h an her oi c scor n of al l ador nment , i n woe-

f ul l y bat t er ed net her - gar ment and gai t er s, and a f el t whi ch

a t r amp woul d have l ooked at sever al t i mes bef or e pi cki ng

i t out of t he gut t er . Ther e was a l i ght buggy f or pas -

senger s and a mul e waggon f or l uggage by t he pl at f or m ;

but how wer e ni ne men, not t o ment i on t he manager and

Vacat i on Rambl es 185

dr i ver , bot h st andi ng over 6 f eet , and t he l at t er as bi g at

l east as onr geol ogi st , t o get t hr ough t he i nt er veni ng mi l es

of f or est t r acks i n t i me f or t ea up her e 1 Fancy our

del i ght when a chor us of " Wi l l you r i de or dr i ve 1 " ar ose,

and out of t he nei ghbour i ng bushes t he Dani t es l ed f or t h

ni ne saddl e- hor ses, bear i ng t he comf or t abl e hal f - Mexi can

saddl es wi t h wooden st i r r ups i n use her e. Our choi ce was

qui ckl y made, and t hr owi ng coat s and wai st coat s i nt o t he

waggon, whi ch t he manager good- nat ur edl y got i nt o hi m-

sel f , sur r ender i ng hi s hor se f or t he t i me, we j oi ned t he

caval cade i n our shi r t s.

A l i ght er - hear t ed par t y has sel dom scr ambl ed t hr ough

t he Tennessee mount ai n r oads on t o t hi s pl at eau. We wer e

l ed by a second Et oni an, al so 6 f t . 2 i n. i n hi s st ocki ngs,

whose Panama st r aw hat and whi t e cor dur oys gl eamed l i ke

a beacon t hr ough t he deep shadows cast by t he t al l pi ne-

t r ees and whi t e oaks. The geol ogi st br ought up t he r ear ,

and bet ween r ode t he r est of us — al l publ i c school men, I

t hi nk, anot her Et oni an, t wo f r om Eugby, one Har r ow, one

Wel l i ngt on — t hr ough deep gul l i es, t hr ough f our st r eams,

i n one of whi ch I near l y came t o gr i ef , f r om not f ol l owi ng

my l eader ; but my gal l ant l i t t l e nag pi cked hi msel f up l i ke

a goat f r om hi s f l ounder i ng amongst t he boul der s, and so

Page 104 of 259

up t hr ough mor e open gr ound t i l l we r eached t hi s ci t y of

t he f ut ur e, and i n t he dusk saw t he br i ght gl eam of l i ght

under t he ver andahs of t wo si ght l y wooden houses. I n

one of t hese, t he t empor ar y r est aur ant , we wer e seat ed i n

a f ew mi nut es at an excel l ent t ea ( col d beef and mut t on,

t omat oes, r i ce, col d appl e- t ar t , mapl e syr up, et c. ) ; and

dur i ng t he meal t he news passed r ound t hat t he hot el

bei ng as yet unf ur ni shed and ever y ot her pl ace f i l l ed wi t h

wor kpeopl e, we must al l ( except t he geol ogi st and t he

AYel l i ngt oni an, who had a r oom over t he of f i ce) pack away

i n t he next cot t age, whi ch had been wi t h di f f i cul t y r eser ved

f or us. I f i t had been a quest i on of men onl y, no one

woul d have gi ven i t a t hought ; but our par t y had now-

been swol l en by t wo young l adi es, who had hur r i ed down

by an ear l i er t r ai n t o see t hei r br ot her and br ot her - i n- l aw,

1 86 Vacat i on Rambl es

set t l er s on t he pl at eau, and by anot her young Engl i shman

who had accompani ed t hem. A puzzl e, you wi l l al l ow,

when you hear a descr i pt i on of our t enement . I t i s a f our -

r oomed t i mber house, of moder at e si ze, t hr ee r ooms on t he

gr ound f l oor , and one l ong l of t upst ai r s. You ent er t hr ough

t he ver andah on a common r oom, 20 f t . l ong by 14 f t . br oad,

openi ng out of whi ch ar e t wo chamber s, 14 f t . by 10 f t .

One of t hese was, of cour se, at once appr opr i at ed t o t he

l adi es. The second, i n spi t e of my r emonst r ances, was

devot ed t o me, as t he Nest or of t he par t y, and on ent er i ng

i t I f ound an excel l ent bed ( whi ch had been made by t wo

of t he Et oni ans) , and a gr eat basi n f ul l of wi l d- f l ower s on

t he t abl e. Ther e wer e f our smal l beds i n t he l of t , f or whi ch

t he seven dr ew l ot s, and t wo of t he l oser s spr ead r ugs on

t he f l oor of t he common r oom, and t he t hi r d swung a

hammock i n t he ver andah. Up dr ove t he mul e waggon

wi t h l uggage, and t he way i n whi ch bi g and l i t t l e boxes

wer e deal t wi t h and di st r i but ed f i l l ed me wi t h r espect and

admi r at i on f or t he r i si ng gener at i on. The house i s r i ngi ng

behi nd me wi t h si l ver y and bass l aught er , and j okes as t o

t he shor t ness of accommodat i on i n t he mat t er of washi ng

appl i ances, whi l e I si t her e wr i t i ng i n t he ver andah, t he

l i ght f r om my l amp t hr owi ng out i nt o st r ong r el i ef t he

st ems of t he near est t r ees. Above, t he vaul t i s bl ue beyond

al l descr i pt i on, and st udded wi t h st ar s as br i ght as t hough

t hey wer e al l Venuses. The kat ydi ds ar e maki ng del i ght -

f ul musi c i n t he t r ees, and t he summer l i ght ni ng i s pl ayi ng

over t he West er n heaven ; whi l e a gent l e br eeze, cool and

r ef r eshi ng as i f i t came st r ai ght of t ' a West er n sea, i s j ust

l i f t i ng, ever y now and t hen, t he cor ner of my paper . Wer e

I young agai n, — but as I am not l i kel y t o be t hat , I r ef r ai n

f r om boot l ess cast l e- bui l di ng, and shal l t ur n i n, l eavi ng

wi ndows wi de open f or t he kat ydi d' s chi r p and t he di vi ne

br eeze t o ent er f r eel y, and wi shi ng as good r est as t hey

have al l so wel l ear ned t o my cr owded nei ghbour s i n t hi s

enchant ed sol i t ude.

Vacat i on Rambl es 187

Page 105 of 259

The Luxur y of Loaf i ng

Rugby, Tennessee, 10t h Sept ember 1880.

I t ake i t I must have " wr i t t en you f r equent " ( as t hey

say her e) , at t hi s t i me of year , i n t he l ast quar t er - cent ur y

on t hi s t heme, but , i f you l et me, shoul d l i ke t o go back

once mor e on t he ol d l i nes. " Loaf i ng as she shoul d be

t aken " i s l i kel y, I f ear , t o become a l ost ar t , t hough t o

my gener at i on i t i s t he one l uxur y. A count r y wi t hout

good l oaf i ng- pl aces i s no l onger a count r y f or a sel f -

r espect i ng man i n hi s second hal f - cent ur y. The r api d

det er i or at i on of our poor dear ol d Engl and i n t hi s r espect

f i l l s me wi t h f or ebodi ngs f ar mor e t han t he I r i sh Quest i on,

whi ch we shal l wor r y t hr ough on t he l i nes so st aunchl y

advocat ed by you. No f ear of t hat , t o my t hi nki ng ;

but , al as ! gr eat f ear of our l osi ng t he power and t he

means of l oaf i ng. Ti me was when John Bul l , i n hi s own

i sl e, was t he best l oaf er i n Chr i st endom — ( I may say i n

t he wor l d, t he Tur k and Ot ahei t an l oaf er doi ng not hi ng

el se, and he who does not hi ng but l oaf l oses t he whol e

f l avour of i t ) — and I can r emember t he t i me when at t he

seasi de — f or i nst ance, Cr omer , and i nl and, Bet wys- y- Coed,

Penygur d, and t he l i ke — t he t r ue l oaf er mi ght be happy,

gl eani ng " t he har vest of a qui et eye, " and f ar f r om any

one who want ed t o go anywher e or do anyt hi ng i n

par t i cul ar . The r ai l way has come t o Cr omer , and I hear

t hat t he guar di an phal anx of Buxt ons, Hoar es, Gur neys,

and Bar cl ays, al l good l oaf er s i n t he l ast gener at i on, have

t hr own up t he sponge and gone wi t h t he st r eam. I was

at Bet wys and Penygur d l ast year , and at t he f or mer

t her e wer e t hr ee or f our l ong pl easur e- vans meet i ng ever y

t r ai n ; at t he l at t er , t hr ee par t i es came i n, i n a f ew hour s,

t o do Snowdon and get back t o di nner at Capel Cur i g or

Bet hgel l er t . I ndeed, I was sor e t o mar k t hat even

Henr y Owen, l andl or d and gui de, once a good l oaf er , has

succumbed. Over her e i t i s st i l l wor se i n t he At l ant i c

St at es ; but t hi s i s a bi g count r y, i n whi ch oases must be

1 88 Vacat i on Rambl es

l ef t yet f or many a l ong year f or t he l oaf er , of whi ch t hi s

i s one. I t l i es on a mount ai n pl at eau, seven mi l es f r om

t he st at i on, t o whi ch a hack goes t wi ce dai l y t o meet t he

mor ni ng and eveni ng mai l s ( once t oo of t en, per haps, f or

t he hi ghest enj oyment of t he l oaf er ) ; but ot her wi se t he

out er wor l d, i t s f i dget s and i t s busi nesses, no mor e con-

cer n us t han t hey di d Cooper ' s j ackdaw. I am consci ous

t hat r egul ar wor k her e must be done by some one, as

dai l y meal s at 7 A. M. , and 12. 30 and 6 P. M. , never f ai l ,

wi t h abundance of gr apes and mel ons — t he peaches, al as !

wer e cut of f by f r ost s when t he t r ees wer e i n bl ossom.

But beyond t hi s, and t he pr esence of a young Engl i sh-

man i n t he house, who, i n bl ue shi r t and t r ouser s, t ends

and mi l ks t he cows, and put s i n si x or ei ght hour s' wor k

a day at one t hi ng or anot her i n t he nei ghbour i ng f i el ds,

t her e i s not hi ng t o r emi nd one t hat t hi s wor l d doesn' t go

on by i t sel f , at any r at e i n t hese aut umn days. Al most

ever y cot t age, or shant y, as t hey cal l t hese at t r act i ve

wooden houses, has a deep ver andah ( f r om whi ch you

Page 106 of 259

get a vi ew, over t he f or est , of t he sout her n r ange of

mount ai ns, wi t h Pi l ot Knob f or hi ghest poi nt ) , and, i n

t he ver andah, r ocki ng- chai r s and hammocks, i n one or

ot her of whi ch a chat t y host or host ess i s al most sur e t o

be f ound, enj oyi ng ai r , vi ew, r ocki ng, and t he i ndescr i b-

abl e dept h of bl ue at mospher e whi ch l aps us al l r ound.

Ther e i s sur el y somet hi ng ver y upl i f t i ng i n f i ndi ng t he

sky t wi ce as f ar of f as you know i t at home. I f el t t hi s

f i r st on t he Lower Danube and i n Gr eece ; but I doubt i f

Bul gar i an or Gr eek heavens ar e as hi gh as t hese. Ever y

now and agai n, a mer r y gr oup of young f ol k go by i n

waggon or on hor seback ; but even t hey ar e l oaf er s, as

t hey have no obj ect i n vi ew beyond enj oyi ng one anot her ' s

company, and possi bl y l unch or t ea at t he j unct i on of

t he t wo mount ai n- st r eams, t he onl y l i on we have wi t hi n

a day' s j our ney. Thei r par ent s may be f ound f or t he

most par t i n and r ound t he hot el , f or t hey ar e wi se

enough t o l et t he young ones knock about ver y much as

t hey pl ease, whi l e t hey t ake t hei r own ease i n t he ver -

Vacat i on Rambl es 189

*

andahs or shady gr ounds of " The Tabar d. " That host el r y

of hi st or i c name st ands on an emi nence next t o t hi s

shant y, and my " l oaf - br ot her s, " when I get any, ar e

gener al l y saunt er er s f r om amongst i t s guest s, and t he one

who comes of t enest i s per haps t he best l oaf er I have ever

come acr oss. He i s a r ancheman on t he Ri o Gr ande,

and has been out her e ever si nce he l ef t Mar l bor ough,

some f our t een year s ago. Si nce t hen I shoul d t hi nk he

has done as har d wor k as any man, i n t he l ong dr i ves of

2000 mi l es whi ch he used t o make f r om Sout her n Texas

up t o Col or ado or Kansas, bef or e t he r ai l way came.

Even now, I t ake i t t hat f or t en mont hs i n t he year he

cover s mor e gr ound and exhaust s mor e t i ssue t han most

men, whi ch makes hi m such a model l oaf er when he get s

away. Yest er day, f or i nst ance, he st ar t ed af t er l unch

f r om " The Tabar d, " 300 yar ds of f , under a sor t of en-

gagement , as def i ni t e as we make t hem, t o spend t he

af t er noon her e. On t he way he came acr oss a hammock

swi ngi ng unoccupi ed i n t he hot el gr ounds, and a vol ume

of Per ul enni s, and onl y ar r i ved her e af t er supper , i n t he

super b st ar l i ght ( t he moon i s obj ect i onabl y l at e i n r i si ng

j ust now) , t o smoke a pi pe bef or e bed- t i me. Hi s ex-

per i ence of West er n l i f e i s as r acy as a vol ume of Br et

Har t e. Take t he f ol l owi ng, f or i nst ance : — At a pr ai r i e-

t own not f ar f r om hi s r anche, as di st ances go i n t he

West , t her e i s a St at e Cour t of Fi r st I nst ance, pr esi ded

over by one Roy Bean, J. P. , who i s al so t he owner of t he

pr i nci pal gr ocer y. Some cowboys had been dr i nki ng at

t he gr ocer y one ni ght , wi t h t he r esul t t hat one of t hem

r emai ned on t he f l oor , but wi t h sense enough l ef t t o l i e

on t he si de of t he pocket wher e he kept hi s dol l ar s. I n

t he mor ni ng, i t appear ed t hat he had been " r ol l ed " —

Angl i cr , t ur ned over and hi s pocket pi cked — wher eupon

a cour t was cal l ed t o t r y a man on whom suspi ci on

r est ed. Roy Bean sat on a bar r el , swor e i n a j ur y, and

t hen addr essed t he pr i soner t hus : " Now, you gi ve t hat

man hi s money back. " The cul pr i t , who had sent f or

t he l awyer of t he pl ace t o def end hi m, hesi t at ed f or a

Page 107 of 259

190 Vacat i on Rambl es

moment , and t hen pul l ed out t he money. " You t r eat

t hi s cr owd, " wer e Roy' s next wor ds ; and whi l e " dr i nks

r ound " wer e handed t o t he del i ght ed cowboys at t he

pr i soner ' s expense, Roy pul l ed out hi s wat ch and went

on : " You' ve got j ust f i ve mi nut es t o cl ear out of t hi s

t own, and i f ever you come i n agai n, we' l l hang you. "

The cul pr i t made of f j ust as hi s l awyer came up, who

r emonst r at ed wi t h Roy, expl ai ni ng t hat t he pr oper - cour se

woul d have been t o have hear d t he char ge, commi t t ed

t he pr i soner , and sent hi m t o t he count y t own f or t r i al .

" And go of f si xt y mi l es, and hang r ound wi t h t he

boys [ wi t nesses] f or you - t o pul l t he skunk t hr ough and

t ouch t he dol l ar s ! " sai d Roy scor nf ul l y ; wher eupon t he

l awyer di sappear ed i n pur sui t of hi s cl i ent and unpai d

f ee.

I t occur s t o one t o ask how much of t he l i t i gat i on of

Engl and mi ght be saved i f Judges of Fi r st I nst ance mi ght

open wi t h Roy' s f or mul a : " Now, you gi ve t hat man hi s

money back. " I am bound t o add t hat hi s pr act i ce i s not

wi t hout i t s seamy si de. When t he r ai l way was maki ng,

t wo men came i n f r om one of t he gangs f or a war r ant .

A br ut al mur der had been commi t t ed. Roy t ol d hi s

cl er k ( t he boy i n t he gr ocer y, he bei ng no penman hi m-

sel f ) t o make out t he paper , aski ng : " Wot ' s t he cor pse' s

name 1 " " Li Hung, " was t he r epl y. " Hol d on ! "

shout ed Roy t o hi s cl er k ; and t hen t o t he pur suer s :

" Ef you ken f i nd anyt hi ng i n t hem books, " poi nt i ng t o

t he t wo or t hr ee suppl i ed by t he St at e, " about ki l l i n' a

Chi naman, i t ken go, " and t he pur suer s had t o t r avel on

t o t he next f ount of j ust i ce.

Her e i s one mor e : my " l oaf - br ot her " hear d i t hi m-

sel f as he was l eavi ng Texas, and l aughed at i t near l y al l

t he way up. A gr oup of cowboys at t he st at i on wer e

di scussi ng t he pr obl em of how l ong t he wor l d woul d l ast

i f t hi s dr ought went on, t he pr evai l i ng sent i ment bei ng

t hat t hey woul d r at her i t wor r ut ed t hr ough somehow.

A cowboy down on hi s l uck her e st r uck i n : " Wal l , i f

t he angel st ood r i ght t har , " poi nt i ng acr oss t he r oom,

Vacat i on Rambl es 191

" r eady t o sound, and l ooked acr oss at me, I ' d j est say,

' Gabe ! t oot your ol d hor n ! ' "

Li f e i n Tennessee

Rugby, Tennessee.

I was r oused at f i ve or t her eabout s on t he mor ni ng af t er

our ar r i val her e by a vi si t f r om a bi g dog bel ongi ng t o a

nat i ve, not qui t e a mast i f f , but mor e l i ke t hat t han any -

t hi ng el se, who, seei ng my wi ndow wi de open, j umped i n

f r om t he ver andah, and came t o t he bed t o gi ve me good-

Page 108 of 259

mor ni ng wi t h t ai l and muzzl e. I was gl ad t o see hi m,

havi ng made f r i ends t he pr evi ous eveni ng, when t he

deci si on of hi s deal i ngs wi t h t he st r ay hogs who came t o

cal l on us f r om t he nei ghbour i ng f or est had won my

hear t ; but as hi s si ze and at t ent i ons somewhat i mpeded

my necessar i l y scant y abl ut i ons, I had t o mot i on hi m

apol oget i cal l y t o t he wi ndow when I t ur ned out . He

obeyed at once, j umped out , l ai d hi s muzzl e on t he si l l ,

and sol emnl y, and, I t hought , somewhat pi t yi ngl y,

wat ched my pr oceedi ngs. Meant i me, I hear d sounds

whi ch announced t he upi ' i si ng of " t he boys, " and i n a

f ew mi nut es sever al appear ed i n f l annel shi r t s and

t r ouser s, bound f or one of t he t wo r i ver s whi ch r un cl ose

by, i n gul l i es 200 f eet bel ow us. They had hear d of a

pool t en f eet deep, and f ound i t t oo ; and a most del i ci ous

pl ace i t i s, sur r ounded by gr eat r ocks, l yi ng i n a copse of

r hododendr ons, azal eas, and magnol i as, whi ch l i t er al l y

f or m t he under wood of t he pi nes and whi t e oak al ong

t hese gul l i es. The wat er i s of a t emper at ur e whi ch

al l ows f ol k whose bl ood i s not so hot as i t used t o be t o

l i e f or hal f an hour on i t s sur f ace and pl ay about wi t h-

out a sensat i on of chi l l i ness. On t hi s occasi on, however ,

I pr ef er r ed t o l et t hem do t he expl or i ng, and so at 6. I 0

went of f t o br eakf ast .

Thi s i s t he r egul ar hour f or t hat meal her e, di nner at

t wel ve, and t ea at si x. Ther e i s r eal l y no di f f er ence

192 Vacat i on Rambl es

bet ween t hem, except t hat we get por r i dge at br eakf ast

and a gr eat abundance of veget abl es at di nner . At al l

of t hem we have t ea and f r esh wat er f or dr i nk, pl at es of

beef or mut t on, appl e sauce, r i ce, t omat oes, peach pi es or

puddi ngs, and sever al ki nds of br ead. As t he Engl i sh

gar den f ur ni shes unl i mi t ed wat er and ot her mel ons, and

as t he set t l er s — young Engl i sh, who come i n t o see us —

br i ng sacks of appl es and peaches wi t h t hem, and as,

mor eover , t he most sol vent of t he boys i nvest ed at

Ci nci nnat i i n a gr eat squar e box f ul l of t i nned vi ands of

al l ki nds, you may see at once t hat i n t hi s mat t er we ar e

not genui ne obj ect s ei t her f or admi r at i on or pi t y. I must

conf ess her e t o a sl i ght di sappoi nt ment . Havi ng ar r i ved

at an age mysel f when di et has become a mat t er of

i ndi f f er ence, I was r at her chuckl i ng as Ave came al ong over

t he comi ng shor t - commons up her e, when we got f ai r l y

l oose i n t he woods, and t he excel l ent di sci pl i ne i t woul d

be f or t he boys, especi al l y t he Londoner s, t o di scover t hat

t he human ani mal can be kept i n r ude heal t h on a f ew

dai l y cr acker s and appl es, or a sl ap- j ack and t ough por k.

And now, behol d, we ar e act ual l y st i l l l i vi ng amongst t he

f l esh- pot s, whi ch I had f ondl y bel i eved we had l ef t i n your

East er n Egypt ; and I am bound t o add, " t he boys " seem

as pr ovoki ngl y i ndi f f er ent t o t hem as i f t hei r bear ds wer e

get t i ng gr i zzl ed. One l i ves and l ear ns, but I quest i on

whet her t hese st at es ar e qui t e t he pl ace t o br i ng home t o

our Angl o- Saxon r ace t he f act t hat we ar e an over f ed

br anch of t he uni ver sal br ot her hood. Tanner , 1 f ear , has

f ast ed i n vai n.

Br eakf ast was scar cel y over , when t her e was a must er

of caval r y. Ever y hor se t hat coul d be spar ed or r equi si -

Page 109 of 259

t i oned was i n demand f or an expl or i ng r i de t o t he west ,

and soon ever y char ger was best r i d by " a boy " i n f r ee-

and- easy gar ment s, and car r yi ng a bl anket f or campi ng

out . Away t hey went under t he pi nes and oaks, a

mer r y l ot , headed by our geol ogi st , who knows t he f or est

by t hi s t i me l i ke a nat i ve, and whose shocki ng ol d st r aw

bl azed ahead i n t he mor ni ng sun l i ke, shal l we say, " t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 193

hel met of Navar r e, " or Essex' s whi t e hat and pl umes

bef or e t he Tr ai n Bands, as t hey cr owned t he r i dge wher e

Fal kl and f el l and hi s monument now st ands, at t he bat t l e

of Newbur y- Char l es Ki ngsl ey' s l i nes came i nt o my

head, as I t ur ned pensi vel y t o my t abl e i n t he ver andah

t o wr i t e t o you : —

When al l t he wor l d i s young, l ad, and al l t he t r ees ar e gr een ;

And ever y goose a swan, l ad, and ever y l ass a queen ;

Then hey f or boot and hor se, l ad, and r ound t he wor l d away ;

Young bl ood must have i t s cour se, l ad, and ever y dog hi s day.

Our t wo l asses ar e, undoubt edl y, queens out her e. The

t hought occur s, ar e our swans — our vi si ons, al r eady so

br i ght , of spl endi d cr ops, and si mpl e l i f e, t o be r ai sed and

l i ved i n t hi s f ai r yl and — t o pr ove geese 1 I hope not .

I t woul d be t he downf al l of t he l ast cast l e i n Spai n I am

ever l i kel y t o bui l d.

On r eachi ng our abode, I was awar e of t he For est er

comi ng acr oss f r om t he Engl i sh gar den, of whi ch he has

char ge, f ol l owed by a young nat i ve. He wal ked up t o

me, and announced t hat t hey wer e come acr oss t o t i dy up,

and bl ack t he boot s. Her e was anot her shock, t hat we

shoul d be f ol l owed by t he l umber of ci vi l i sat i on so

cl osel y ! Wi l l boot s be bl acked, I wonder , i n t he New

Jer usal em 1 I was at f i r st i ncl i ned t o pr ot est , whi l e t hey

made a col l ect i on, and set t hem out on t he ver andah, but

t he si ght of t he l adi es' neat l i t t l e hi gh- l ows made me pause.

These, at any r at e, i t seemed t o me, shoul d be bl acked,

even i n t he Mi l l enni um. Next mi nut e I was so t i ckl ed

by a l i t t l e i nt er l ude bet ween t he For est er and t he nat i ve,

t hat al l i dea of r emonst r ance vani shed. The l at t er , con-

t empl at i ng t he boot s and bl acki ng- pot and br ushes — f r om

under t he shapel ess pi ece of ol d f el t , by way of hat , of

t he same myst er i ous col our as t he r agged shi r t and

br eeches, hi s onl y ot her gar ment s — j oi ned hi s hands

behi nd hi s back, and sai d, i n t hei r sl ow way, " Look ' er e,

Mr . Hi l l , ai n' t t hi s ' er e pay- day?" The dr i f t was

per f ect l y obvi ous. Thi s ci t i zen had no mi nd t o t ur n

O

194 Vacat i on Rambl es

shoe- bl ack, and f el t l i ke di schar gi ng hi msel f summar i l y.

Mr . Hi l l , who was al r eady busi l y sweepi ng t he ver andah,

put down hi s br oom, and af t er a shor t col l oquy, whi ch I

Page 110 of 259

di d not qui t e cat ch, sei zed on a boot and br ush, and began

shi ni ng away wi t h an ar t i st i c st r oke wor t hy of one of t he

Shoebl ack Br i gade at t he London Br i dge St at i on. The

nat i ve l ooked on f or a mi nut e, and t hen sl owl y uncl asped

hi s hands. Pr esent l y he pi cked up a boot and l ooked

r ound i t dubi ousl y. I now t ook a hand mysel f . I f t her e

was one ar t whi ch I l ear ned t o per f ect i on at school , and

st i l l pr i de mysel f on, i t i s shi ni ng a boot . I n a mi nut e or

t wo my boot was begi nni ng " t o soar and si ng, " whi l e t he

For est er ' s was al r eady a t hi ng of beaut y. The nat i ve,

wi t h a gr unt , t ook up t he spar e br ush, and began sl owl y

r ubbi ng. The vi ct or y was compl et e. He comes now and

spends t wo hour s ever y mor ni ng over hi s new accompl i sh-

ment , evi dent l y del i ght ed wi t h t he oppor t uni t y i t gi ves

hi m f or l oaf i ng and wat chi ng t he habi t s of t he st r ange

occupant s, f or whom al so he f et ches many t i n pai l s of

wat er f r om t he wel l , i n a sl ow, vague manner . He has

even vol unt eer ed t o f i x up t he l adi es' r oom and f i l l t hei r

bat h ( an of f er whi ch has been decl i ned, wi t h t hanks) , but

I doubt whet her he wi l l ever t ouch t he poi nt of a genui ne

" shi ne. "

They ar e a cur i ous peopl e, t hese nat i ves, as t he For est er

( an Engl i shman, r ear ed i n Lor d Denbi gh' s gar den at

Newnham Paddocks, and t hi r t y year s out her e) t ol d me,

as we wal ked of f t o exami ne t he Engl i sh gar den, but I

must keep hi s exper i ences and my own obser vat i on f or

separ at e t r eat ment . The Engl i sh gar den i s t he most

advanced, and, I t hi nk, t he most i mpor t ant and i nt er est i ng

f eat ur e of t hi s set t l ement . I f young Engl i shmen of smal l

means ar e t o t r y t hei r f or t unes her e, i t i s wel l t hat t hey

shoul d have t r ust wor t hy gui dance at once as t o what ar e

t he best cr ops t o r ai se. Wi t h t hi s vi ew, Mr . Hi l l was

pl aced, i n t he spr i ng of t hi s year , i n char ge of t he onl y

cl ear ed space avai l abl e. Al l t he r est i s beaut i f ul , open

f or est - l and. You can r i de or dr i ve al most anywher e

Vacat i on Rambl es 195

under t he t r ees, but t her e i s no cul t i vat ed spot f or many

mi l es, except smal l pat ches her e and t her e of car el essl y

sown mai ze and mi l l et , and a r ood or t wo of sweet

pot at oes. The For est er had a har d st r uggl e t o do any -

t hi ng wi t h t he gar den at al l t hi s season. He was onl y

put i n command i n May, si x weeks at l east t oo l at e.

He coul d onl y obt ai n t he occasi onal use of a t eam, and hi s

dut i es i n t he f or est and i n gr adi ng and super i nt endi ng

t he wal ks i nt er f er ed wi t h t he gar den. Manur e was out of

t he quest i on, except a l i t t l e ashes, whi ch he pai nf ul l y

gat her ed her e and t her e f r om t he r eckl ess l og- f i r es whi ch

abound i n t he woods. He cal l s hi s gar den a f ai l ur e f or

t he year . But as hal f an acr e whi ch was wi l d f or est - l and i n

May i s cover ed wi t h wat er - mel ons and cant al upes, as t he

t omat oes hang i n huge bunches, r ot t i ng on t he vi nes f or

want of mout hs enough t o eat t hem, as t he Li ma beans

ar e yi el di ng at t he r at e of 250 bushel s an acr e, and as

cabbages, sweet pot at oes, beet s, and squash ar e i n equal l y

pr odi gal abundance, t he pr ospect of maki ng a good l i vi ng

i s beyond al l quest i on, f or al l who wi l l set t o wor k wi t h a

wi l l .

I n t he af t er noon, I i nspect ed t he hot el , near l y com-

Page 111 of 259

pl et ed, on a knol l i n t he f or est , bet ween t he Engl i sh

gar den and t hi s f r ame- house. I t i s a si ght l y bui l di ng,

wi t h deep ver andahs pr et t i l y l at t i ced, f r om whi ch one get s

gl i mpses t hr ough t he t r ees of magni f i cent r anges of bi ne

f or est - cover ed mount ai ns. We have named i t " The

Tabar d, " at t he suggest i on of one of our Amer i can member s,

who, bei ng i n Engl and when t he ol d Sout hwar k host el r y

f r om whi ch t he Cant er bur y Pi l gr i ms st ar t ed was br oken up,

and t he mat er i al s sol d by auct i on, t o make r oom f or a

hop st or e, bought some of t he ol d bani st er s, whi ch he has

r ever ent l y kept t i l l now. They wi l l be put up i n t he

hal l of t he new Tabar d, and mar ked wi t h a br ass pl at e

and i nscr i pt i on, t el l i ng, I t r ust , t o many gener at i ons of

t he pl ace f r om whi ch t hey came. The Tabar d, when

f i ni shed, as i t wi l l be i n a f ew days, wi l l l odge some

f i f t y guest s; and, i n spi t e of t he absence of al cohol i c dr i nks,

196 Vacat i on Rambl es

has ever y chance, i f pr esent i ndi cat i ons can he t r ust ed,

of har bour i ng and sendi ng out as cheer y pi l gr i ms as

f ol l owed t he Mi l l er and t he Host , and t ol d t hei r wor l d-

f amous st or i es f i ve hundr ed year s ago.

The dr i nk quest i on has r ear ed i t s bal ef ul head her e, as

i t seems t o do al l over t he wor l d. The var i ous wor ks

had gone on i n peace t i l l t he l ast t en days, when t wo

young nat i ves t ot ed over some bar r el s of whi sky, and

br oached t hem i n a shant y, on a smal l l ot of no- man' s

l and i n t he woods, some t wo mi l es f r om hence. Si nce

t hen t her e has been no peace f or t he manager . Happi l y

t he f eel i ng of t he communi t y i s vi gor ousl y t emper at e,

so ener get i c measur es ar e on f oot t o r oot out t he pest .

A wi se st at e l aw enact s t hat no l i quor st or e shal l be

per mi t t ed under heavy penal t i es wi t hi n f our mi l es of an

i ncor por at ed school ; so we ar e pushi ng on our school -

house, and or gani si ng a boar d t o gover n i t . Meant i me,

we have evi dence of unl awf ul sal e ( i n quant i t i es l ess

t han a pi nt ) , and of encour agi ng gambl i ng, by t hese pest s,

and hope t o make an exampl e of t hem at t he next si t t i ng

of t he count y cour t . Thi s i nci dent has deci ded t he

quest i on f or us. I f we ar e t o have i nf l uence wi t h t he

poor whi t es and bl acks, we must be above suspi ci on

our sel ves. So no l i quor wi l l be pr ocur abl e at t he

Tabar d, and t hose who need i t wi l l have t o i mpor t f or

t hemsel ves.

A br i dl e- pat h l eads f r om t he hot el down t o t he Cl ear

For k, one of t he st r eams at t he j unct i on of whi ch t he

t own si t e i s si t uat e. The descent i s about 200 f eet , and

t he st r eam, when you get t o i t , f r om t hi r t y f eet t o f i f t y

f eet wi de, — a mount ai n st r eam, wi t h deep pool s and bi g

boul der s. Your col umns ar e not t he pl ace f or descr i pt i ons

of scener y, so I wi l l onl y say t hat t hese gor ges of t he

Cl ear For k and Whi t e Oak ar e as f i ne as any of t hei r si ze

t hat I know i n Scot l and, and not unl i ke i n char act er , wi t h

t hi s di f f er ence, t hat t he chi ef under wood her e consi st s of

r hododendr on ( cal l ed l aur el her e) , azal ea, and a ki nd of

magnol i a I have not seen bef or e, and of whi ch I cannot get

Page 112 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 197

t he name. I passed huge f aggot s of r hododendr on, t wel ve

f eet and f our t een f eet l ong, l yi ng by t he wal ks, whi ch had

been cl ear ed away r ut hl essl y whi l e gr adi ng t hem. They ar e

t hr ee mi l es l ong and cost under

100, ; i j udi c i ous out l ay ,

I t hi nk , ev en bef or e an ac r e of l and has been s ol d. They

hav e been named t he Lov er s ' Wal k s , appr opr i at el y enough,

f or no mor e wel l - adapt ed pl ac e c oul d pos s i bl y be f ound f or

t hat t i me- honour ed bus i nes s , es pec i al l y i n s pr i ng, when

t he whol e gor ges under t he t al l pi nes and whi t e oak ar e

one bl az e of pur pl e, y el l ow, and whi t e bl os s om.

On my r et ur n t o t he pl at eau, my f i r s t day ' s ex -

per i enc es c ame t o an end i n a way whi c h no l onger

sur pr i s ed me, af t er t he boot

- bl ac k i ng and t he Lov er s '

Wal k s . I was hai l ed by one of " t he boy s , " who had

been unabl e t o obt ai n a mount , or had s ome bus i nes s

whi c h k ept hi m f r om ex pl or i ng. He was i n f l annel s ,

wi t h r ac quet i n hand, on hi s way t o t he l awn- t enni s

gr ound, t o whi c h he of f er ed t o pi l ot me. I n a mi nut e or

t wo we c ame upon an open s pac e, mar k ed, I s ee on t he

pl ans , " Cr i c k et Gr ound, " i n whi c h r os e a f i ne, s t r ong

pal i ng, enc l os i ng a s quar e of 150 f eet , t he upr i ght s

bei ng s i x f eet hi gh, and c l os e enough t o k eep, not onl y

boy s out , but t enni s - bal l s i n. Tur f t her e was none, i n

our s ens e, wi t hi n t he enc l os ur e, and what t her e mus t

hav e onc e been as a s ubs t i t ut e f or t ur f had been c ar ef ul l y

cl ear ed of f on s pac e s uf f i c i ent f or one f ul l - s i z ed c our t ,

whi c h was wel l mar k ed out on t he har d, s andy l oam. A

bet t er gr ound I hav e r ar el y s een, ex c ept f or t he y oung

spr out s of oak , and ot her s c r ub, whi c h her e and t her e

\ x o, \ ' Q s t r uggl i ng up, i n a l as t ef f or t t o as s er t t hei r

" anc i ent , s ol i t ar y r ei gn. " At any r at e, t hen and t her e,

upon t hat c our t , I s aw t wo s et s pl ay ed i n a s t y l e whi c h

woul d hav e done c r edi t t o a c ount y mat c h ( t he y oung

l ady , by t he way , who pl ay ed f ar f r om t he wor s t game of

t he f our , i s t he c hampi on of her own c ount y ) . Thi s was

t he openi ng mat c h, t he r ac quet s hav i ng oi dy j us t ar r i v ed

f r om Engl and, t hough t he c our t has been t he obj ec t of

t ender s ol i c i t ude f or s i x week s or mor e t o t he f our

198 Vac at i on Rambl es

Engl i s hmen al r eady r es i dent her e or near by . The

Rugby Tenni s Cl ub c ons i s t s t o- day of s ev en member s , f i v e

Engl i s h and t wo nat i v e, and wi l l pr obabl y r eac h t wo

f i gur es wi t hi n a f ew day s on t he r et ur n of t he boy s .

Meant i me t he ef f ec t of t hei r f i r s t pr ac t i c e has been t hat

t hey hav e r es ol v ed on put t i ng a c hal l enge i n t he

Ci nc i nnat i and Chat anooga paper s of f er i ng t o pl ay a

mat c h — bes t out of f i v e s et s — wi t h any c l ub i n t he

Uni t ed St at es . Suc h ar e i nf ant c ommuni t i es , i n t hes e

l at i t udes !

You may hav e been s t ar t l ed by t he addr es s at t he head

of t hi s l et t er . I t was adopt ed unani mous l y on our r et ur n

i n t wi l i ght f r om t he t enni s - gr ound, and appl i c at i on at onc e

made t o t he St at e aut hor i t i es f or r egi s t r at i on of t he name

and es t abl i s hment of a pos t - of f i c e. I t was s har p pr ac t i c e

t hus t o s t eal a mar c h on t he t hr ee Et oni ans , s t i l l f ar away

i n t he f or es t . Had t hey been pr es ent , pos s i bl y Thames

Page 113 of 259

mi ght hav e pr ev ai l ed ov er Av on.

A For es t Ri de

Rugby , Tennes s ee.

Ther e ar e f ew mor e i nt er es t i ng ex per i enc es t han a r i de

t hr ough t hes e s out her n f or es t s . The s c r ub i s s o l ow and

t hi n, t hat y ou c an al mos t al way s s ee away f or l ong di s t anc es

amongs t pi ne, whi t e oak , and c hes t nut t r ees ; and ev er y

now and t hen at r i dges wher e t he t i mber i s t hi n, or wher e

a c l ump of t r ees has been r ut hl es s l y " gi r dl ed, " and t he

bar e, gaunt s k el et ons onl y r emai n s t andi ng, y ou may c at c h

gl i mps es of mount ai n r anges of di f f er ent s hades of bl ue and

gr een, s t r et c hi ng f ar away t o t he hor i z on. You c an' t l i v e

many day s up her e wi t hout get t i ng t o l ov e t he t r ees ev en

mor e, I t hi nk , t han we do i n wel l - k empt Engl and ; and

t hi s out r age of " gi r dl i ng, " as t hey c al l i t

— s t r i ppi ng t he

bar k f r om t he l ower par t of t he t r unk , s o t hat t he t r ees

wi t her and di e as t hey s t and — s t r i k es one as a k i nd of

hous ehol d c r uel t y , as i f a man s houl d c ut of f or di s f i gur e

Vac at i on Rambl es 199

al l hi s wi f e' s hai r . I f he want s a t r ee f or l umber or

f i r ewood, v er y good. He s houl d hav e i t . But he s houl d

cut i t down l i k e a man, and t ak e i t c l ean away f or s ome

r eas onabl e us e, not l eav e i t as a s c ar ec r ow t o bear wi t nes s

of hi s r ec k l es s nes s and l az i nes s . Happi l y not muc h mi s c hi ef

of t hi s k i nd has been done y et i n t he nei ghbour hood of

Rugby , and a s t op wi l l now be put t o t he wr et c hed pr ac t i c e.

Ther e i s anot her , t oo, al mos t as ghas t l y , but Av hi c h, no

doubt , has mor e t o be s ai d f or i t . At l eas t hal f of t he

l ar ges t pi nes al ongs i de of t he s andy t r ac t s whi c h do dut y

f or r oads hav e a l ong, gapi ng wound i n t hei r s i des , about

a y ar d f r om t he gr ound. Thi s was t he nat i v e way of

col l ec t i ng t ur pent i ne, whi c h ooz ed down and ac c umul at ed

at t he bot t om of t he gas h ; but I r ej oi c e t o s ay i t no

l onger pay s , and t he c us t om i s i n di s us e. I t mus t be

suppr es s ed al t oget her , but c ar ef ul l y and gent l y . I t s eems

t hat i f not per s i s t ed i n t oo l ong, t he poor , dear , l ong- s uf f er -

i ng t r ees wi l l c l os e up t hei r wounds , and not be muc h t he

wor s e ; s o I t r us t t hat many of t he s c or ed pi nes , s pr i ngi ng

f or t y or f i f t y f eet i nt o t he ai r bef or e t hr owi ng out a br anc h,

whi c h I pas s ed i n s or r ow and anger on my f i r s t l ong r i de,

may y et out l i v e t hos e who out r aged t hem. Hav i ng got

r i d of my s pl een, ex c i t ed by t hes e t wo di abol i c c us t oms ,

I c an r et ur n t o our r i de, whi c h had ot her wi s e not hi ng but

del i ght i n i t .

The manager , an i nv al uabl e gues t f r om New Yor k , a

doc t or , who had s er v ed on t he Sani t ar y Commi s s i on t hr ough

t he war , and I , f or med t he par t y . The manager dr ov e

t he l i ght buggy , whi c h hel d one of us al s o, and t he hand-

bags ; whi l e t he ot her r ode by t he s i de, wher e t he r oad

al l owed, or bef or e or behi nd, as t he f anc y s ei z ed hi m. We

wer e bound f or a s ol i t ar y gues t - hous e i n t he f or es t , s ome

sev ent een mi l es away , i n t he nei ghbour hood of a c av e and

wat er f al l whi c h ev en her e hav e a r eput at i on, and ar e s ome-

t i mes v i s i t ed. We al l owed t hr ee and a hal f hour s f or t he

j our ney , and i t t ook al l t he t i me. About f i v e mi l es an

Page 114 of 259

hour on wheel s i s al l y ou c an r ec k on on, f or t he c ount r y

r oads , s andy t r ac t s about t en f eet br oad, ar e j us t l ef t t o

200 Vac at i on Rambl es

t ak e c ar e of t hems el v es , and wher ev er t her e i s a s uf f i c i ent

dec l i v i t y t o gi v e t he r ai n a c hanc e of was hi ng al l t he

sur f ac e of f t hem, ar e j us t a heap of boul der s of di f f er ent

si z es . But , af t er al l , f i v e mi l es an hour i s as f as t as y ou

car e t o go, f or t he pl ay of t he s unl i ght amongs t t he

var i ed f ol i age, and t he new f l or a and f auna, k eep y ou

cons t ant l y i nt er es t ed and amus ed. I nev er r egr et t ed s o

muc h my i gnor anc e of bot any , f or I c ount ed s ome f our t een

sor t s of f l ower s i n bl oom, of whi c h gol den - r od and

Mi c hael mas - dai s y wer e t he onl y ones I was qui t e s ur e I

knew,

— and by t he way , t he dai s y of Par nas s us , of whi c h

I f ound a s i ngl e f l ower gr owi ng by a s pr i ng. The r es t

wer e l i k e home f l ower s , but y et not i dent i c al wi t h t hem —

at l eas t , I t hi nk not

— and t he doubt whet her one had ev er

seen t hem bef or e or not was pr ov ok i ng. The bi r ds — f ew

i n number — wer e al l s t r anger s t o me ; buz z ar ds , of whi c h

we s aw f i v e at one t i me, qui t e wi t hi n s hot , and s ev er al

ki nds of hawk and woodpec k er , wer e t he mos t c ommon ;

but at one poi nt , qui t e a number of what l ook ed l i k e v er y

bi g s wi f t s , but wi t hout t he das h i n t hei r f l i ght of our bi r d,

and wi t h wi ngs mor e l i k e c ur l ews ' , wer e s k i mmi ng ov er

t he t r ee- t ops . I onl y hear d one not e, and t hat r at her

sweet , a c at - bi r d' s , t he doc t or t hought ; but he was al mos t

as muc h a s t r anger i n t hes e woods as I . Happi l y , howev er ,

he was an ol d ac quai nt anc e of t hat del i ght f ul i ns ec t , t he

" t umbl e- bug, " t o whi c h he i nt r oduc ed me on a s andy bi t

of r oad. The gent l eman i n ques t i on t ook no not i c e of me,

but went on r ol l i ng hi s l ump of ac c umul at ed di r t t hr ee

t i mes hi s own s i z e bac k war ds wi t h hi s hi nd l egs , as i f hi s

l i f e depended on i t . Pr es ent l y hi s l ump c ame r i ght up

agai ns t a s t one and s t opped dead. I t was a " c aut i on " t o

see t hat bug s t r ai n t o pus h i t f ar t her , but i t woul dn' t

budge, al l he c oul d do. Then he s t opped f or a moment or

t wo, and ev i dent l y made up hi s s mal l mi nd t hat s omet hi ng

mus t be wr ong behi nd, f or no bug c oul d hav e pus hed

har der t han he. So he qui t t ed hol d wi t h hi s hi nd l egs ,

and t ur ned r ound t o t ak e a good l ook at t he s i t uat i on, i n

or der , I s uppos e, t o s ee what mus t be done nex t . At any

Vac at i on Rambl es 201

r at e, he pr es ent l y c aught hol d agai n on a di f f er ent s i de, and

so s t eer ed s uc c es s f ul l y pas t t he obs t ac l e. Ther e wer e a

number of t hem wor k i ng about , s ome s i ngl e and s ome i n

pai r s , and s o f ul l of humour ar e t hei r doi ngs t hat I s houl d

hav e l i k ed t o wat c h f or hour s .

We got t o our j our ney ' s end about dus k , a f i v e- r oomed,

si ngl e- s t or i ed, wooden hous e, bui l t on s uppor t s , s o as t o

keep i t of f t he gr ound. We went up f our s t eps t o t he

ver andah, wher e we s at whi l e our hos t es s , a s mal l , t hi n

New Engl ander , pr obabl y s ev ent y or upwar ds , but as br i s k

as a bee, bus t l ed about t o get s upper . The t abl e was l ai d

i n t he mi ddl e r oom, whi c h opened on t he k i t c hen at t he

bac k , wher e we c oul d s ee t he s t ov e, and hear our hos t es s ' s

Page 115 of 259

di s c our s e. She boi l ed us t wo of her f i ne whi t e c hi c k ens

admi r abl y , and s er v ed wi t h hot br ead, t omat oes , s weet

pot at oes , and s ev er al pr es er v es , of whi c h I c an s peak wi t h

spec i al pr ai s e of t he huc k l eber r y , whi c h gr ows , s he s ai d,

i n gr eat abundanc e al l r ound. The boy s , we hear d, had

been t her e t o br eak f as t , af t er s l eepi ng out , and not hav i ng

had a s quar e meal s i nc e t hey s t ar t ed. Luc k i l y f or us ,

her whi t e c hi c k ens ar e a v er y numer ous as wel l as beaut i f ul

f ami l y , or we s houl d hav e f ar ed badl y . She and her

hus band s upped af t er us , and t hen c ame and s at wi t h us

i n t he bal c ony , and t al k ed away on al l manner of t opi c s ,

as i f t he c hanc es of di s c our s e wer e f ew, and t o be

made t he mos t of . They had l i v ed at J ames t own, c l os e

by , a v i l l age of s ome ei ght or t en hous es , al l t hr ough t he

war , t hr ough whi c h t he Conf eder at e c av al r y had pas s ed

agai n and agai n. They had nev er mol es t ed her or her s

i n any way , but had a f anc y f or poul t r y , whi c h mi ght hav e

pr ov ed f at al t o her whi t e f ami l y , but f or her Yank ee wi t .

She and her hus band managed t o f i x up a f al s e f l oor i n

one of t hei r r ooms i n whi c h t hey f ed t he r oos t er s , s o

whenev er a pi c k et c ame i n s i ght , her c al l woul d br i ng t he

whol e f ami l y out of t he woods and c l ear i ng i nt o t he r ef uge,

wher e t hey r emai ned peac ef ul l y amongs t c or n- c obs t i l l t he

danger had pas s ed. She had not hi ng but good t o s ay of

her nat i v e nei ghbour s , ex c ept t hat t hey c oul d mak e not hi ng

202 Vac at i on Rambl es

of t he c ount r y . The Lor d had done al l He c oul d f or i t ,

she s ummed up, and Bos t on mus t t ak e hol d of t he

bal anc e. We hear d t he owl s al l ni ght , as wel l as t he

kat y di ds , but t hey onl y s eemed t o emphas i s e t he f or es t

st i l l nes s . The ol d l ady ' s beds , t o whi c h we r et i r ed at t en,

af t er our l ong gos s i p i n t he bal c ony , wer e s weet and c l ean,

and I es c aped per f ec t l y s c at hel es s , a r ar e ex per i enc e, I was

as s ur ed, i n t hes e f or es t s hant i es . I was bound, howev er ,

t o admi t , i n ans wer t o our hos t es s ' s s ear c hi ng i nqui r i es ,

t hat I had s een, and s l ai n, t hough not f el t , an i ns ec t

sus pi c i ous l y l i k e a Br i t i s h B f l at .

The c av e whi c h we s ought out af t er br eak f as t was wel l

wor t h any t r oubl e t o f i nd. We had t o l eav e t he buggy

and hor s es hi t c hed up and s c r ambl e down a gl en, wher e

pr es ent l y , t hr ough a t angl e of gr eat r hododendr on bus hes ,

we c ame on a r oc k , wi t h t he l i t t l e i r on- s t ai ned s t r eam j us t

bel ow us , and oppos i t e, at t he t op of a s l ope of per haps

f i f t een or t went y f eet , was t he c av e, l i k e a l ong bl ac k ey e

under a r ed ey ebr ow, gl ar i ng at us . I c oul d det ec t no

f i gur e i n t he s ands t one r oc k ( t he ey ebr ow) , whi c h hung

ov er i t f or i t s whol e l engt h. The c av e i s s ai d t o r un bac k

mor e t han 300 f eet , but we di d not t es t i t . Ther e woul d

be good s i t t i ng- r oom f or 300 or 400 peopl e al ong t he

f r ont , and s o obv i ous l y f i t t ed f or a c onv ent i c l e, t hat I c oul d

not hel p peopl i ng i t wi t h f ugi t i v e s l av es , and f anc y i ng

a bl ac k Mos es pr eac hi ng t o t hem of t hei r c omi ng Ex odus ,

wi t h t he r hododendr ons i n bl oom behi nd. Mai denhai r

gr ow i n t uf t s about t he damp f l oor , and a c r eepi ng f er n,

wi t h a br i ght r ed ber r y , t he name of whi c h t he doc t or t ol d

me, but I hav e f or got t en, on t he damp, r ed wal l s . What

t he nook mus t be when t he r hododendr ons ar e al l abl az e

wi t h bl os s om, I hope s ome day t o s ee.

Page 116 of 259

We had hear d of a f i ne spr i ng somewher e i n t hi s par t

of t he f or est , and i n ai d of our sear ch f or i t pr esent l y t ook

up a boy whom we f ound l oaf i ng r ound a smal l cl ear i ng.

He was bar e- headed and bar e- f oot ed, and wor e an ol d,

br own, r agged shi r t t ur ned up t o t he el bows, and ol d,

br own, r agged t r ouser s t ur ned up t o t he knees. I was

Vacat i on Rambl es 203

r i di ng, and i n answer t o my i nvi t at i on he st epped on a

st ump and vaul t ed up behi nd me. He never t ouched me,

as most boys woul d have done, but sat up behi nd wi t h

per f ect ease and bal ance as we r ode al ong, a young cent aur .

We soon got i nt i mat e, and I f ound he had never been out

of t he f or est , was f our t een, and st i l l at ( occasi onal ) school .

He coul d r ead a l i t t l e, but coul dn' t wr i t e. I t ol d hi m t o

t el l hi s mast er , f r om me, t hat he ought t o be ashamed of

hi msel f , whi ch he pr omi sed t o do wi t h gr eat gl ee ; al so,

but not so r eadi l y, t o consi der a pr oposal I made hi m,

t hat i f he woul d wr i t e t o t he manager wi t hi n si x mont hs

t o ask f or i t , he shoul d be pai d $1. I f ound t hat he knew

not hi ng of t he f l ower s or but t er f l i es, of whi ch some dozen

di f f er ent ki nds cr ossed our pat h. He j ust r eckoned t hey

wer e al l but t er f l i es, as i ndeed t hey wer e. He knew,

however , a good deal about t he t r ees and shr ubs, and mor e

about t he f or est beast s. Had seen sever al deer onl y

yest er day, and an ol d opossum wi t h ni ne young, a number

whi ch t ook t he doct or ' s br eat h away. Ther e wer e l ot s of

f oxes i n t he woods, but he di d not see t hem so of t en. Hi s

f ace l i ght ed up when he was pr omi sed $2 f or t he f i r st

opossum he woul d t ame and br i ng acr oss t o Rugby. Af t er

gui di ng us t o t he spr i ng, and hunt i ng out an ol d wooden

cup amongst t he bushes, he went of f cheer i l y t hr ough t he

bushes, wi t h t wo quar t er - dol l ar bi t s i n hi s pocket , an

i nt er est i ng young wi l d man. Wi l l he ever br i ng t he

opossum 1

We got back wi t hout f ur t her i nci dent ( except f l ushi ng

qui t e a number of quai l , whi ch must be l ovel y shoot i ng i n

t hese woods) , and f ound t he boys at home, and har d at

l awn- t enni s and wel l - di ggi ng. The hogs ar e becomi ng an

obj ect of t hei r deci ded ani mosi t y, and havi ng hear d of

a Yankee not i on, a sor t of t weezer s, whi ch r i ng a hog

by one mot i on, i n a second, t hey ar e goi ng t o get i t , and

t hen t o cat ch and r i ng ever y gr unt er who shows hi s nose

near t he asyl um. Out of t hi s t her e shoul d come some

f un, shor t l y.

204 Vacat i on Rambl es

The Nat i ves

Rugby, Tennessee.

When al l i s sai d and sung, t her e i s not hi ng so i nt er est i ng

as t he man and woman who dwel l on any cor ner of t he

ear t h ; so, bef or e gi vi ng you any f ur t her det ai l s of our

sur r oundi ngs, or doi ngs, or pr ospect s, l et me i nt r oduce you

t o our nei ghbour s, so f ar as I have as yet t he pl easur e of

t hei r acquai nt ance. And I am gl ad at once t o acknowl edge

Page 117 of 259

t hat i t i s a pl easur e, not wi t hst andi ng al l t he t al k we have

hear d of " mean whi t es, " " poor , whi t e t r ash, " and t he l i ke,

i n novel s, t r avel s, and newspaper s. I t may possi bl y be

t hat we have been f or t unat e, and t hat our nei ghbour s her e

ar e no f ai r speci mens of t he " poor whi t es " of t he Sout h.

Thi s, and t he next t hr ee count i es, ar e i n t he nor t h- west er n

cor ner of Tennessee, bor der i ng on Kent ucky. They ar e

ent i r el y mount ai n l and. Ther e ar e ver y f ew negr oes i n

t hem, and t hey wer e st r ongl y Uni oni st dur i ng t he war .

At pr esent , t hey ar e Republ i can, al most t o a man. Ther e

i s not one Democr at i c of f i ci al i n t hi s count y, and I am t ol d

t hat onl y t hr ee vot es wer e cast f or t he Democr at i c candi -

dat es at t he l ast St at e el ect i ons. They ar e over whel med

by t he vot e of west er n and cent r al Tennessee, whi ch car r i es

t he St at e wi t h t he sol i d Sout h ; but her e Uni on men can

speak t hei r mi nds f r eel y, and cover t hei r wal l s wi t h pi ct ur es

i n col our ed br oad- sheet of t he her oes of t he war , — Li ncol n,

Gover nor Br ownl ow, Gr ant and hi s capt ai ns. They ar e

poor al most t o a man, and l i ve i n l og- hut s and cabi ns whi ch,

at home, coul d scar cel y be r i val l ed out of I r el and. Wi t hi n

t en mi l es of t hi s pl ace t her e ar e possi bl y hal f a dozen ( I

have seen t wo) whi ch ar e equal i n accommodat i on and

comf or t t o t hose of good f ar mer s i n Engl and. The best of

t hese bel ongs t o our near est nei ghbour , wi t h whom a par t y

of us di ned, at noon, t he or t hodox hour i n t he mount ai ns,

some weeks si nce. He i s a wi r y man, of mi ddl e hei ght ,

pr obabl y f i f t y- f i ve year s of age, upr i ght , wi t h f i nel y cut

f eat ur es, and an eye t hat l ooks you r i ght i n t he f ace. He

Vacat i on Rambl es. 205

has been on hi s f ar m t went y year s, and has cl ear ed some

f i f t y acr es, whi ch gr ow cor n, mi l l et , and veget abl es, and he

has a f i ne appl e or char d. We shoul d cal l hi s f ar mi ng ver y

sl ovenl y, but i t pr oduces abundance f or hi s needs. He sat

at t he head of hi s t abl e l i ke an ol d nobl eman, ver y qui et

and cour t eous, but qui t e r eady t o speak on any subj ect ,

and especi al l y of t he f i ve year s of t he war t hr ough whi ch

he car r i ed hi s l i f e i n hi s hand, but never f l i nched f or an

hour f r om hi s f ai t h. Hi s wi f e, a sl i ght , el der l y per son,

whose r egul ar f eat ur es showed t hat she must have been

ver y good- l ooki ng, di d not si t down wi t h us, but st ood at

t he bot t om of t he t abl e, di spensi ng her good t hi ngs. Our

dr i nk was t ea and col d spr i ng wat er ; our vi ands, chi ckens,

ducks, a st ew, ham, wi t h a pr of usi on of veget abl es, appl e

and huckl eber r y t ar t s, and sever al pr eser ves, one of whi ch

( some ki nd of cher r y, ver y common her e) was of a l ovel y

gol d col our , and of a f l avour whi ch woul d make t he f or t une

of a London past r y- cook ; a pr of usi on of wat er - mel ons and

appl es f i ni shed our r epast ; and no one need ask a bet t er , —

but I am bound t o add t hat our host ess has t he name f or

gi vi ng t he best squar e meal t o be had i n t he f our count i es.

I t woul d be as f ai r t o t ake t hi s as an aver age speci men of

t he wel l - t o- do f ar mer s' f ar e her e, as t hat of a nobl eman

wi t h a Fr ench cook of t he gent r y at home. Our host i s a

keen spor t sman, and showed us hi s f l i nt - l ock r i f l e, si x f eet

l ong, and wei ghi ng 18 l bs. ! He car r i es a f or ked st i ck as a

r est , and, we wer e assur ed, get s on hi s game about as

qui ckl y as i f i t wer e a handy West l ey- Ri char ds, and sel dom

mi sses a r unni ng deer . The vast maj or i t y of t hese

mount ai neer s ar e i n ver y di f f er ent ci r cumst ances. Most ,

but not al l of t hem, own a l og cabi n and mi nut e pat ch of

Page 118 of 259

cor n r ound i t , pr obabl y al so a f ew pi gs and chi ckens, but

seem t o have no desi r e t o make any ef f or t at f ur t her deal -

i ng, and qui t e cont ent t o l i ve f r om hand t o mout h. The} '

cannot do t hat wi t hout hi r i ng t hemsel ves out when t hey

get a chance, but ar e most uncer t ai n and exasper at i ng

l abour er s. I n t he f i r st pl ace, t hough abl e t o st and gr eat

f at i gue i n hunt i ng and per f ect l y i ndi f f er ent t o weat her ,

206 Vacat i on Rambl es

t hey ar e not physi cal l y so st r ong as aver age Engl i sh or

Nor t her n men. Then t hey ar e never t o be r el i ed on f or a

j ob. As soon as one of t hem has ear ned t hr ee or f our

dol l ar s, he wi l l pr obabl y want a hunt , and go of f f or i t

t hen and t her e, spend a dol l ar on powder and shot , and

t hese on squi r r el s and opossums, whose ski ns may possi bl y

br i ng hi m i n t en cent s as hi s week' s ear ni ngs. I t i s usel ess

t o r emonst r at e, unl ess you have an agr eement i n wr i t i ng.

An Engl i shman who came her e l at el y, t o f ound some

manuf act ur es, l ef t i n sheer despai r and di sgust , sayi ng he

had f ound at l ast a pl ace wher e no one seemed t o car e f or

money. I do not say t hat t hi s i s t r ue, but t hey cer t ai nl y

seem t o pr ef er l oaf i ng and hunt i ng t o dol l ar s, and ar e of t en

t oo l azy, or unabl e, t o count , hol di ng out t hei r smal l change

and t el l i ng you t o t ake what you want . Temper at e as a

r ul e, t hey ar e sadl y weak when wi l d- cat whi sky or " moon-

shi ne, " as t he f avour i t e i l l i ci t bever age of t he mount ai ns i s

cal l ed, cr osses t hei r pat h. Thi s i s t he gr eat t r oubl e on pay

ni ght s at al l t he wor ks whi ch ar e st ar t i ng i n t hi s di st r i ct .

The i nevi t abl e boot h soon appear s, wi t h t he usual ac -

compani ment of car ds and di ce, and pr obabl y a t hi r d of

your men ar e t hencef or t h wi t hout a di me and ut t er l y unf i t

f or wor k on Mondays, i f you ar e l ucky enough t o escape

danger ous r ows amongst t he dr i nker s. The St at e l aws

gi ve summar y met hods of suppr essi ng t he nui sance, but

t hey ar e har d t o wor k, and t hough publ i c sent i ment i s

vehement l y host i l e t o whi sky, t he t empt at i on pr oves i n

ni ne cases out of t en t oo st r ong. The mount ai neer s ar e i n

t he mai n wel l - gr own men, t hough sl i ght , shocki ngl y badl y

cl ot hed, and sal l ow f r om chewi ng t obacco ; suspi ci ous i n

al l deal i ngs at f i r st , but hospi t abl e, maki ng ever yt hi ng t hey

have i n t he house, i ncl udi ng t hei r own beds, f r ee t o a

st r anger , and gener al l y r ef usi ng payment f or l odgi ng

or f ood. They ar e al so ver y honest , cr i mes agai nst

pr oper t y ( t hough not agai nst t he per son) bei ng of ver y

r ar e occur r ence. The ot her day, a Nor t her n gent l eman

vi si t i ng her e expr essed hi s f ear s t o a nat i ve f ar mer , who,

af t er i nqui r i ng whet her t her e wer e any pr i sons and pol i ce

Vacat i on Rambl es 207

i n New Engl and, what t hese wer e f or , and whet her hi s

i nt er r ogat or had l ocks t o hi s door s and hi s saf es, and bar s

t o hi s wi ndow- shut t er s, r emar ked, " Wal , I ' ve l i ved her e

man and boy f or f or t y year , and never had a bol t t o my

house, or cor n- l of t , or smoke- house, and I ' l l gi ve you a

dol l ar f or ever y l ock you can f i nd i n Scot t count y. " The

cat t l e, sheep, and hogs wander per f ect l y unguar ded t hr ough

t he f or est , and I have not yet hear d of a si ngl e i nst ance of

a st ol en beast .

Page 119 of 259

Ther e i s a r ough wat er - mi l l on a cr eek cl ose by, cal l ed

Buck' s Mi l l , whi ch was r un by t he owner f or year s — unt i l

he sol d i t a f ew mont hs ago — on t he f ol l owi ng syst em.

He put t he r unni ng gear and st ones up, and above t he

l at t er a wooden box, wi t h t he char ge f or gr i ndi ng meal

mar ked out si de. He vi si t ed t he mi l l once a f or t ni ght ,

l ooked t o t he machi ner y, and t ook away what ever coi n

was i n t he box. Fol ks br ought t hei r cor n down t he st eep

bank i f t hey chose, gr ound i t at t hei r l ei sur e, and t hen, i f

t hey wer e honest , put t he f ee i n t he box ; i f not , t hey went

of f wi t h t hei r meal , and a consci ousness t hat t hey wer e

r ogues. I pr esume Buck f ound hi s pl an answer , as he

pur sued i t up t o t he dat e of sal e.

I n shor t , si r , I have been dr i ven t o t he concl usi on, i n

spi t e of al l t r adi t i onal l eani ngs t he ot her way, t hat t he

Lor d has much peopl e i n t hese mount ai ns, as I t hi nk a

young Engl i sh deacon, l at el y or dai ned by t he Bi shop of

Tennessee, wi l l f i nd, who passed her e yest er day on a

buggy, wi t h hi s young wi f e and chi l d, and t wo boxes and

t en dol l ar s of t he goods of t hi s wor l d, on hi s way t o open

a chur ch mi ssi on i n a nei ghbour i ng count y. I hear d

yest er day a st or y whi ch shoul d gi ve hi m hope as t o t he

f emal e por t i on, at any r at e, of hi s possi bl e f i ock. They ar e

dr eadf ul sl at t er ns, wi t hout an i nkl i ng of t he gr eat Pal mer -

st oni an t r ut h t hat di r t i s mat t er i n i t s wr ong pl ace. A

mount ai n gi r l , however , who had, st r ange t o say, t aken t he

f ancy t o go as housemai d i n a Knoxvi l l e f ami l y, gave

out t hat she had been conver t ed, and, upon doubt s

bei ng expr essed and quest i ons asked as t o t he gr ounds

2o8 Vacat i on Rambl es

on whi ch she based t he assur ance, r epl i ed t hat she knew

i t was al l r i ght , because now she swept under neat h t he

r ugs.

When one get s on st or i es of quai nt and r eady r epl i es

i n t hese par t s, one " sl ops over on bot h shoul der s. " Her e

ar e a coupl e whi ch ar e cur r ent i n connect i on wi t h t he war ,

upon whi ch, nat ur al l y enough, t he whol e mi nd of t he

peopl e i s st i l l dwel l i ng, bei ng as much occupi ed wi t h i t as

wi t h t hei r ot her par amount subj ect , t he i mmedi at e f ut ur e

devel opment of t he unbounded r esour ces of t hese St at es,

whi ch have been r eal l y opened f or t he f i r st t i me by t hat

t er r i bl e agency. An act i ve Secessi oni st l eader i n a nei gh-

bour i ng count y, i n one of hi s st ump speeches bef or e t he

war , had announced t hat t he Sout her ner s, and especi al l y

Tennessee mount ai n men, coul d whi p t he whi t e- l i ver ed

Yanks wi t h pop- guns. Not l ong si nce, havi ng been

amnest i ed and r econst r uct ed agai n t o a poi nt when he saw

hi s way t o r unni ng f or a St at e of f i ce, he was r emi nded

of t hi s sayi ng at t he begi nni ng of hi s canvas. " Wal ,

yes, " he sai d, " he owned t o t hat and st ood by i t st i l l ,

onl y t hose mean cusses [ t he Yanks] woul dn' t f i ght t hat

way. "

The ot her i s of ver y di f f er ent st amp, and wi l l hol d i t s

own wi t h many wor l d- wi de st or i es of gr acef ul compl i ment s

t o f or mer enemi es by ki ngs and ot her bi g- wi gs. Gener al

Wi l der , one of t he most successf ul and gal l ant of t he

Page 120 of 259

Nor t her n cor ps commander s i n t he war , has est abl i shed

hi msel f i n t hi s St at e, wi t h whose cl i mat e and r esour ces he

became so f ami l i ar i n t he campai gn whi ch ended under

Look- out Mount ai n, and has bui l t up a gr eat i r on i ndust r y

at Chat anooga, i n f ul l si ght of t he bat t l ef i el ds f r om whi ch

14, 000 bodi es of Uni on sol di er s wer e car r i ed t o t he nat i onal

cemet er y. Ear l y i n hi s Sout her n car eer he met one of t he

most f amous of t he Sout her n cor ps commander s ( For r est ,

I bel i eve, but am not sur e as t o t he name) , who, on bei ng

i nt r oduced, sai d, " Gener al , I have l ong wi shed t o know

you, because you have behaved t o me i n a way f or whi ch

I r eckon you owe me an apol ogy, as bet ween gent l emen. "

Vacat i on Rambl es 209

Wi l der r epl i ed i n ast oni shment t hat t o hi s knowl edge t hey

had never met bef or e, but t hat he was qui t e r eady t o do

al l t hat an honour abl e man ought . " Wel l now, Gener al , "

sai d t he ot her , " you r emember such and such a f i ght

( nami ng i t ) 1 By ni ght you had t aken ever y gun I had,

and I consi der t hat qui t e an ungent l emanl y advant age t o

t ake, anyhow. " By t he way, no man bear s mor e f r ank

t est i mony t o t he gal l ant r y of t he Sout her n sol di er s t han

Gener al Wi l der , or admi t s mor e f r ankl y t he odds whi ch

t he super i or equi pment of t he Feder al s t hr ew agai nst t he

Conf eder at e ar mi es. Hi s cor ps, mount ed i nf ant r y, ar med

wi t h r epeat i ng r i f l es, wer e equal , he t hi nks, t o at l east t hr ee

t i mes t hei r number s of as good sol di er s as t hemsel ves wi t h

t he or di nar y Sout her n ar ms. Ther e ar e f ew pl easant er

t hi ngs t o a hear t y wel l - wi sher , who has not been i n Amer i ca

f or t en year s, t han t he change whi ch has t aken pl ace i n

publ i c sent i ment , i ndi cat ed by such f r ank admi ssi ons as t he

one j ust r ef er r ed t o. I n 1870, any expr essi on of admi r a-

t i on f or t he gal l ant r y of t he Sout h, or of r espect or

appr eci at i on of such men as Lee, Jackson, Longst r eet , or

Johnson, was r ecei ved ei t her si l ent l y, or wi t h st r ong

di sappr oval . Now i t i s qui t e t he ot her way, so f ar as I

have seen as yet , and I cannot but hope t hat t he l ast

scar s of t he mi ght y st r uggl e ar e heal i ng up r api dl y

and t hor oughl y, and t hat t he ol d sect i onal hat r ed and

scor n l i e si x f eet under gr ound, i n t he nat i onal ceme-

t er i es : —

No mor e shal l t he war - cr y sever ,

Or t he i nl and r i ver s r un r ed ;

" We have bur i ed our anger f or ever ,

I n t he sacr ed gr aves of t he dead.

Under t he sod and t he dew,

Wai t i ng t he Judgment Day ;

Love and t ear s f or t he bl ue !

Tear s and l ove f or t he gr ay !

No man can l i ve f or a f ew weeks on t hese Cumber l and

Mount ai ns, wi t hout r espondi ng wi t h a hear t y " Amen ! "

P

Page 121 of 259

2i o Vacat i on Rambl es

Our For est er

Rugby, Tennessee.

Not hi ng woul d sat i sf y our For est er but t hat some of us

shoul d r i de over wi t h hi m, some ni ne mi l es t hr ough t he

f or est , t o see Gl ades, t he f ar m upon whi ch he has been f or

t he l ast ei ght year s. He l ed t he way, on hi s yel l ow mar e,

an ani mal who had near l y gi ven us sor e t r oubl e her e. The

head st abl eman t ur ned al l t he hor ses out one day f or a

shor t r un, and she bei ng amongst t hem, and l ovi ng her ol d

home best , went of f st r ai ght f or Gl ades t hr ough t he woods,

wi t h ever y hoof af t er her . Lucki l y, Al f r ed, t he For est er ' s

son, was t her e, and guessi ng what was t he mat t er , j ust r ode

her back, al l t he r est f ol l owi ng. The r i de was l ovel y,

gl or i ous peeps of di st ant bl ue r anges, and t he f or est j ust

br eaki ng out al l over i nt o gol ds, and ver mi l i ons, and pur pl es,

and r usset s. We onl y passed t wo smal l f ar ms on t he way,

bot h r amshackl e, and so t he t r eat of comi ng suddenl y on

some one hundr ed acr es cl ear ed, dr ai ned, wi t h l ar ge, t hough

r ough, f ar m bui l di ngs, and bear i ng t he l ook of bei ng car ed

f or , was i ndescr i babl y pl easant . Mr s. Hi l l and her son

Al f r ed r ecei ved us, bot h wor t hy of t he head of t he house ;

mor e I cannot say. They r un t he f ar m i n hi s absence wi t h

scar cel y any hel p, Al f r ed havi ng al so t o at t end t o a gr i st

and saw mi l l j i n t he nei ghbour i ng cr eek. Ther e wer e a f i ne

mar e and f i l l y i n t he yar d, as t ame as pet dogs, comi ng and

shovi ng t hei r noses i nt o your pocket s and coaxi ng you f or

appl es. The hogs ar e good Ber kshi r e br eed, t he sheep

Cot swol ds. The cows ( i t i s t he onl y pl ace wher e we have

had cr eam on t he mount ai ns) , Al der ney or shor t hor ns.

The house i s a l ar ge l og- cabi n, one bi g r oom, wi t h a deep,

open f i r epl ace, wi t h a gr eat pi nedog smoul der i ng at t he

back acr oss pl ai n i r on dogs, a bi g hear t h i n f r ont , on whi ch

pi t ch- pi ne chi ps ar e t hr own when you f eel i ncl i ned f or a

bl aze. The r oom i s car pet ed and hung wi t h phot ogr aphs

and pr i nt s, a r i f l e and shot gun, and i mpl ement s of one

ki nd or anot her . A smal l col l ect i on of books, most l y

Vacat i on Rambl es 2 1 1

t heol ogi cal , and f ounded on t wo bi g Bi bl es, t wo r ocki ng

and hal f a dozen ot her chai r s, a t abl e, and t wo beds i n t he

cor ner s f ur t hest f r om t he f i r e, compl et e t he f ur ni t ur e of t he

r oom, whi ch opens on one si de on a deep ver andah, and on

t he ot her on a l ean- t o, whi ch ser ves f or ki t chen and di ni nc-

r oom, and ends i n a smal l , spar e bedr oom. ' A l of t above,

i nt o whi ch t he f ami l y di sappear ed at ni ght , compl et es t he

accommodat i on. I need not dwel l on our supper , whi ch

i ncl uded t ender mut t on, chi ckens, appl e - t ar t , cust ar d

puddi ng, and al l manner of veget abl es and cakes. Mr s.

Hi l l i s as not abl e a cook as her husband i s a f or est er .

Af t er supper we dr ew r ound t he bi g f i r epl ace, and soon

pr evai l ed on our host t o gi ve us a sket ch of hi s l i f e, by

way of encour agement t o hi s t hr ee young count r ymen who

Page 122 of 259

sat r ound, and ar e goi ng t o t r y t hei r f or t unes i n t hese

mount ai ns : —

" I was bor n and br ed up i n one of Lor d Denbi gh' s

cot t ages, at Ki r by, i n War wi ckshi r e. My f at her was

empl oyed on t he gr eat pl ace, t hat ' s Newnham Paddocks,

you know. He was a l abour er , and br ought up si xt een

chi l dr en, not one of whom, except me, has ever been

summonsed bef or e a j ust i ce, or got i nt o any ki nd of

t r oubl e. I went t o school t i l l about ni ne, but I was

al ways l ongi ng t o be out i n t he f i el ds at pl ough or bi r d-

keepi ng ; so I got away bef or e I coul d do much r eadi ng or

wr i t i ng. But I kept on at Sabbat h School , and l ear nt mor e

t han I di d at t he ot her . The young l adi es used t o t each

us, and t hey' d set us pi eces and t hi ngs t o l ear n f or t hem i n

t he week. My Caesar ( t he onl y ej acul at i on Amos al l ows

hi msel f ; he cannot r emember wher e he pi cked i t up) , how

I woul d wor k at my pi ece t o get i t f or Lady Mar y ! I ' ve

f ai r l y cr i ed over i t somet i mes, but I al ways managed t o get

i t , somehow. Af t er a bi t , I was t aken on at t he house.

At f i r st , I di d odd j obs, l i ke cl eani ng boot s and car r yi ng

messages ; and t hen I got i nt o t he gar den, and f r om t hat

i nt o t he st abl e, and t hen f or a bi t wi t h t he keeper s, and

t hen i nt o l i ver y, t o wai t on t he young l adi es. So you see

I l ear nt somet hi ng of ever yt hi ng, and was happy, and ear n-

212

Vacat i on Rambl es

i ng good wages. But I want ed t o see t he wor l d, so I t ook

ser vi ce wi t h a gent l eman who was a bi g r ai l way cont r act or .

I used t o dr i ve hi m, and do anyt hi ng a' most t hat he want ed.

I st ayed wi t h hi m ni ne year s, and ' t was whi l e goi ng about

wi t h hi m t hat I met my wi f e her e. We got mar r i ed down

i n Kent , t hi r t y- si x year s ago. Yes ( i n answer t o a l aughi ng

comment by hi s wi f e) , I want ed some one t o mi nd me i n

t hose days. That poachi ng t r oubl e came about t hi s way.

I had char ge f or my mast er of a pi ece of r ai l way t hat r an

t hr ough Lor d ' s pr eser ves, i n Wal es. Ther e wer e ver y

st r i ct r ul es about t r espassi ng on t he l i nes t hen, because

f ol ks t her e di dn' t l i ke our l i ne, and had been put t i ng t hi ngs

on i t t o upset t he t r ai ns. One day I saw t wo keeper s

comi ng down t he l i ne, wi t h a l abour er I knew bet ween t hem.

He was al l cover ed wi t h bl ood, f r om a wound i n hi s head.

' Why, ' sai d I , ' what ' s t he mat t er now 1 ' ' I ' ve been out

of wor k, ' he sai d, ' t hi s t hr ee weeks, and I was di ggi ng out

a r abbi t t o get somet hi ng t o eat , when t hey came up and

br oke my head. ' Fr om t hat t i me t he keeper s and 1

quar r el l ed. I summonsed t hem, and got t hem f i ned f or

t r espassi ng on t he l i ne ; and t hen t hey got me f i ned f or

t r espassi ng on t hei r cover s. We wat ched one anot her l i ke

hawks. I ' d of t en l i e out at ni ght f or hour s i n t he col d, i n

a di t ch, wher e I knew t hey' d want t o cr oss t he l i ne, and

t hen j ump up and cat ch t hem ; and t hey' d do t he same by

me. Once t hey got me f i ned 3 : 10s. f or poachi ng.

Page 123 of 259

I r emember i t wel l . I was t hat r i l ed, I s ai d t o t he j us t i c es

r i ght out , ' How l ong do y ou t hi nk i t ' l l t ak e me, gent l emen,

t o pay al l t hat money , wi t h har es onl y I d. api ec e 1 ' Then

I went i n f or i t . I r emember ed t he t ex t , ' What t hy hand

f i ndet h t o do, do i t wi t h t hy mi ght . ' I di d i t . I us ed t o

cr eep al ong at ni ght , al l up t he f enc es , and f eel f or t he

pl ac es wher e t he har es c ame t hr ough, and s et my wi r es ;

and I ' d of t en hav e t en gr eat ones s c r eami ng and f l oppi ng

about l i k e mad. And t hat ' s what t he k eeper s wer e, t oo.

I ' v e gi v en a whol e bar r owf ul of har es away t o t he poor f ol k

of a mor ni ng. Wel l , I k now ( i n ans wer t o an i nt er pel l at i on

of Mr s . Hi l l ) , y es , ' t was al l wr ong, and I was a wi l d c hap i n

Vac at i on Rambl es 2 1 3

t hos e day s . Then I begun t o hear t al k about Amer i c a, and

al l t her e was f or a man t o s ee and do t her e, s o I l ef t my

mas t er , and we c ame ov er , t went y - s ev en y ear s ago. At

f i r s t I t ook c har ge of gent l emen' s gar dens , i n New Yor k

and New J er s ey . Then we went t o Mi s c ej an, wher e I

coul d ear n al l I want ed. Money was of no ac c ount t her e

f or a good man i n t hos e day s , but t he c l i mat e was dr eadf ul

si c k l y , and we had our baby ; t he f i r s t we had i n t wel v e

year s , and want ed t o l i v e on br ead and wat er , s o as we

coul d s av e hi m. So we went up r i ght amongs t t he I ndi ans ,

t o a pl ac e t hey c al l Gr and Tr av er s , a wonder f ul heal t hy

pl ac e, on a l ak e i n t he pi ne- f or es t c ount r y , as i t was t hen.

I went on t o a pr omont or y , wher e t he f or es t s t ood, not l i k e

i t does her e, but t he t r ees t hat t hi c k , y ou had s c ar c e r oom

t o s wi ng an ax e. Wel l , i t was a beaut i f ul heal t hy pl ac e,

and we and baby t hr ov e, and I s oon made a f ar m ; and t hen

f ol k began t o f ol l ow af t er us , and bef or e I l ef t , t her e wer e

t went y - t hr ee s aw- mi l l s , c ut t i ng up f r om 80, 000 t o 150, 000

f eet a day , week i n and out . They ' v e s t r i pped t he c ount r y

so now, t hat t her e' s no l umber f or t hos e mi l l s t o c ut , and

mos t of t hem hav e s t opped. I us ed t o hav e a boat , wi t h

j us t a s mal l s ai l , and I ' d t ak e my s t uf f down i n t he mor ni ng,

and t r ade i t of f t o t he l umber - men, and t hen s ai l bac k at

ni ght , f or t he wi nd al way s c hanged and bl ew bac k i n t he

ev eni ngs , mos t par t of t he y ear . Wel l , t hen, t he war c ame,

and f or t wo y ear s I k ept t hi nk i ng whet her I ought n' t t o do

my par t t o hel p t he Gov er nment I ' d l i v ed under s o l ong.

Bes i des , I hat ed s l av er y . So i n t he t hi r d y ear I made up

my mi nd, and ' l i s t ed i n t he Mi c hi gan Cav al r y . I t ook t he

whol e mat t er bef or e t he Lor d, and pr ay ed I mi ght do my

dut y as a s ol di er , and not hur t any man. Wel l , we j oi ned

t he Cav al r y , near 00, 000 s t r ong down i n t hes e par t s ; and

I was at Knox v i l l e, and up and down. I t Av as awf ul , t he

l anguage and t he way s of t he men, many of t hem at l eas t ,

swear i ng, and dr i nk i ng, and s t eal i ng any k i nd of t hi ng t hey

coul d l ay hands on. Many ' s t he pl an f or s t eal i ng I ' v e

br ok en up, t el l i ng t hem t hey wer e t her e t o s us t ai n t he f l ag,

not t o r ob poor f ol k s . I s pok e v er y pl ai n al l al ong, and

2 1 4 Vac at i on Rambl es

got t he men, many of t hem any way , t o l i s t en. I got on

f amous l y , t oo, bec aus e I was nev er away pl under i ng, and

Page 124 of 259

my hor s e was al way s r eady f or any s er v i c e. An of f i c er

woul d c ome i n, af t er we had had a l ong day ' s wor k , t o s ay

a des pat c h or mes s age mus t go, and no hor s e i n our c om-

pany was f i t t o go but mi ne, s o t he or der l y mus t hav e hi m ;

but I al way s s ai d no, I was qui t e r eady t o go my s el f , but

woul d not par t c ompany f r om my hor s e. The onl y t i me 1

t ook what was not mi ne was when we s ur pr i s ed a Con-

f eder at e c onv oy , and got hol d of t he s t or es t hey wer e c ar r y -

i ng. Ther e t hey wer e l y i ng al l al ong t he r oads , gr eat c oat s

and bl ank et s , and meal bags , and good boot s , wi t h Engl i s h

mar k s on t hem. My Caes ar , how our men wer e des t r oy i ng

t hem ! I got t oget her a l ot of t he poor , s t ar v i ng f ol k out

of t he woods t hat bot h s i des had been l i v i ng on, and l oaded

t hem up wi t h meal and bl ank et s . My Cees ar , how I l ov ed

t o s c at t er t hem Engl i s h boot s ! They nev er had s een s uc h

bef or e. No, s i r ( i n r epl y t o one of us ) , I nev er f i r ed a

shot al l t hat t i me, but I had hundr eds f i r ed at me. I ' v e

been i n t he r i f l e- pi t s , and now and agai n s een a f el l ow

dr awi ng a bead on me, and I ' d duc k down and hear t he

bul l et pi ng i nt o t he bank c l os e abov e. They got t o empl oy

me a good deal c ar r y i ng des pat c hes and s c out i ng. That ' s

how I got t ook at l as t . We wer e at a pl ac e c al l ed St r aw-

ber r y Pl ai ns , wi t h Br ec k enr i dge' s di v i s i on pr et t y near al l

r ound us . I was s ent out wi t h t wel v e ot her men, t o t r y

and dr aw t hem out , t o s how t hei r f or c e and pos i t i on ; and

so we di d, but t hey wer e t oo qui c k f or us . Out t hey c ame,

and i t was a r ac e bac k t o our l i nes down a s t eep c r eek .

My hor s e mi s s ed hi s f oot i ng, and down we r ol l ed ov er and

ov er , i nt o t he wat er . When I got up, I was up t o my

mi ddl e, and, f i r s t t hi ng I k new, t her e was a r ebel , who s wor e

at me f or a Gr — d d Yank ee, and f i r ed hi s s i x s hoot er

at me. The s hot pas s ed under my ar m, and bef or e he

coul d f i r e agai n an of f i c er or der ed hi m on, and gav e me i n

char ge. I was t ak en t o t he r ear , and mar c hed of f wi t h a

l ot of pr i s oner s . The r ebel s t r eat ed me as i f I ' d been t hei r

f at her , af t er a day or t wo. I s pok e out t o t hem about t hei r

Vac at i on Rambl es 2 1 5

swear i ng and way s , j us t as I had t o our men ; and I mi ght

hav e been t i ght al l t he t i me I was a pr i s oner , onl y I ' m a

t emper anc e man. They put me on t hei r hor s es on t he

mar c h, and I was gl ad of i t , f or I was hur t by my r ol l

wi t h my hor s e, and bad about t he c hes t . Af t er about

si x day s I got my par ol e, wi t h f i v e ot her s . They wer e

har d pr es s ed t hen and di dn' t want us t ot i ng al ong.

Then we s t ar t ed nor t h, Av i t h not hi ng but j us t our

uni f or ms , and t hey f ul l of v er mi n. The f i r s t hous e we

st r uc k I as k ed wher e we c oul d f i nd a Uni on man about

t her e. They di dn' t k now any one, di dn' t t hi nk t her e

was one i n t he c ount y . I s ai d t hat was bad, as we wer e

par ol ed Uni on s ol di er s ,

— and t hen al l was c hanged. They

t ook us i n and want ed us t o us e t hei r beds , whi c h we

woul dn' t do, bec aus e of t he v er mi n on us . They gav e us

al l t hey had, and I s aw t he women, f or I c oul dn' t s l eep,

cov er i ng us up wi t h any s par e c l ot hes t hey ' d got , and

wat c hi ng us al l ni ght l ong. They s ent us on t o ot her

Uni on hous es , and s o we got nor t h. I was t oo i l l t o s t ay

nor t h at my ol d wor k , s o I s ol d my f ar m, and c ame s out h

t o Knox v i l l e, wher e I had c ome t o k now many k i nd, good

Page 125 of 259

peopl e, i n t he war . They wer e v er y k i nd, and I got wor k

at t he i mpr ov ement s on Mr . Di c k ens on' s f ar m ( a model

f ar m we had gone ov er ) , and i n ot her gent l emen' s gar dens .

But I di dn' t get my heal t h agai n, s o ei ght y ear s ago I c ame

t o t hi s pl ac e on t he mount ai ns , whi c h I k new was heal t hy ,

and woul d s ui t me. Wel l , t hey al l s ai d I s houl d be s t ar v ed

out i n t wo y ear s and hav e t o qui t , but bef or e t hr ee y ear s

wer e out I was s el l i ng t hem c or n and bet t er bac on t han

t hey ' d ev er had bef or e. Some of ' em begi n t o t hi nk I ' m

r i ght now, and t her e' s a deal of i mpr ov ement goi ng on, and

i f t hey ' d onl y , as I t el l ' em, j us t put i n al l t hei r t i me on

t hei r f ar ms , and not go l oaf i ng r ound gunni ng, and c on-

t ent ed wi t h c or n- dodger s and a bi t of por k , and gi v e up

whi s k y , t hey mi ght al l do as wel l as I ' v e done. I s houl d l i k e

t o go bac k onc e mor e and s ee t he ol d c ount r y ; but I mean

t o end my day s her e. Ther e' s no s uc h c ount r y t hat I ev er

saw. The Lor d has done al l f or us her e. And i t s eems

2 1 6 Vac at i on Rambl es

l i k e dr eams , t hat I s houl d l i v e t o s ee a Rugby up her e on

t he mount ai ns . I mean t o t ak e a l ot i n t he t own, or c l os e

by , and c al l i t Newnham Paddoc k s . So I s hal l l ay my

bones , y ou s ee, i n t he s ame pl ac e, as i t wer e, t hat I was

r ear ed i n. "

I do not pr et end t hat t hes e wer e hi s ex ac t . wor ds ,

— t he

whol e had t o be c ondens ed t o c ome wi t hi n y our s pac e,

— but

t hey ar e not f ar of f . I t was now pas t ni ne, t he t i me f or

r et i r i ng, when Amos t ol d us t hat he al way s ended hi s day

wi t h f ami l y pr ay er s . A ps al m was r ead, and t hen we k nel t

down, and he pr ay ed f or s ome mi nut es . Ex t empor ar y

pr ay er s al way s ex c i t e my c r i t i c al f ac ul t y , but t her e was

no t hought or ex pr es s i on i n t hi s I c oul d hav e wi s hed t o

al t er . Then we t ur ned i n, I , af t er a pi pe i n t he v er andah,

i n one c l ean w r hi t e bed, and t wo of t he boy s i n t he bi g one

i n t he oppos i t e c or ner . Ther e I s oon doz ed of f ' , wat c hi ng

t he bi g, s moul der i ng, whi t e pi ne- l og away i n t he dept h of

t he c hi mney - nook , and t he l as t f l i c k er i ngs of t he k nobs of

pi t c h pi ne i n f r ont of i t , bet ween t he i r on dogs , and

wonder i ng i n my mi nd ov er t he br av e s t or y we had j us t

been l i s t eni ng t o, s o s i mpl y t ol d ( of whi c h I f ear I hav e

suc c eeded i n gi v i ng a v er y poor r ef l ec t i on) , and whet her

t her e ar e not s ome — t her e c annot , I f ear , be many — s uc h

l i v es l y i ng about i n out - of - t he- way c or ner s , on mount ai n,

or pl ai n, or c i t y . My l as t c ons c i ous s pec ul at i on was

whet her t he Uni on woul d hav e been s av ed i f al l Uni on

sol di er s had been Amos Hi l l s .

I wak ed ear l y , j us t bef or e dawn, and was wat c hi ng

al t er nat el y t he ember s of t he bi g l og, s t i l l agl ow i n t he

deep c hi mney , and t he whi t e l i ght begi nni ng t o br eak

t hr ough t he honey s uc k l es and v i nes whi c h hung ov er t he

ver andah, and s haded t he wi de, open wi ndow, when t he

cl oc k s t r uc k f i v e. The door opened s of t l y , and i n s t epped

Amos Hi l l i n hi s s t oc k i ngs . He c ame t o t he f oot of our

beds , pi c k ed up our di r t y boot s , and s t ol e out agai n, as

noi s el es s l y as he had ent er ed. The nex t mi nut e I hear d

t he bl ac k i ng br us hes goi ng v i gor ous l y , and k new t hat I

shoul d appear at br eak f as t wi t h a s hi ne on i n whi c h I

Page 126 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 217

shoul d have r eason t o gl or y, i f I wer e pr epar i ng t o wal k

i n Bond St r eet , i nst ead of t hr ough t he scr ub on t he Cum-

ber l and Mount ai ns. I t ur ned over f or anot her hour ' s

sl eep ( br eakf ast bei ng at 6. 30 shar p) , but not wi t hout f i r st

consi der i ng f or some mi nut es whi ch of us t wo — i f t hi ngs

wer e f i xed up st r ai ght i n t hi s bl under i ng ol d wor l d — ought

t o be bl acki ng t he ot her ' s boot s. The concl usi on I came

t o was t hat i t ought not t o be Amos Hi l l .

The Negr o " Nat i ves"

Rugby, Tennessee, BOt h Oct ober 1880.

Ther e i s one i nconveni ence i n t hi s desul t or y mode of

cor r espondence, — t hat one i s apt t o f or get what one has

t ol d al r eady, and t o r epeat onesel f . I have wr i t t en some-

t hi ng of t he whi t e nat i ve of t hese mount ai ns ; have I sai d

anyt hi ng of hi s dar k br ot her 1 The subj ect i s becomi ng a

mor e and mor e i nt er est i ng and i mpor t ant one ever y day,

t hr ough al l t hese r egi ons. I n t hese mount ai ns, t he negr o,

per haps, can scar cel y be cal l ed a nat i ve. Ver y f ew bl ack

f ami l i es, I am t ol d, wer e t o be f ound her e a year or t wo

si nce. My own eyes assur e me t hat t hey ar e mul t i pl yi ng

r api dl y. I see mor e and mor e bl ack men amongst t he

gangs on r oads and br i dges, and come acr oss queer l i t t l e

encampment s i n t he woods, wi t h a pi l e of l ogs smoul der i ng

i n t he mi dst , r ound whi ch st and t he mi r t h - pr ovoki ng

f i gur es of smal l bl ack ur chi ns, who st ar e and gr i n at t he

i nt r uder on hor seback, t i l l he r i des on under t he gol d and

r usset and gr een aut umnal copi ng of hi ckor i es, chest nut s,

and pi nes.

I am comi ng t o t he concl usi on t hat wher ever wor k i s

t o be had, i n Tennessee, at any r at e, t her e wi l l t he negr o

be f ound. He seems t o gat her t o a cont r act or l i ke t he

buzzar ds, whi ch one sees over t he t r ee- t ops, t o car r i on.

And unl ess t he whi t e nat i ves t ake t o " put t i ng i n al l f chei r

t i me, " what ever wor k i s goi ng wi l l not l ong r emai n wi t h

t hem. The negr o wi l l l oaf and shi r k as of t en as not when

2 1 8 Vacat i on Rambl es

he get s t he chance, but he has not t he same cr avi ng f or

knocki ng of f al t oget her as soon as he has a coupl e of

dol l ar s i n hi s pocket ; has no st r ong hunt i ng i nst i nct , and

has not acqui r ed t he ar t of l et t i ng hi s pi ck dr op l i st l essl y

i nt o t he gr ound wi t h i t s own wei ght , and st oppi ng t o

admi r e t he scener y af t er ever y hal f - dozen st r okes. The

negr o i s much mor e obedi ent , mor eover , and manageabl e,

— obedi ent t o a f aul t , i f one can bel i eve t he many st or i es

one hear s of hi s r eadi ness t o commi t smal l mi sdemeanour s

and cr i mes, and not al ways smal l ones, at t he bi ddi ng of

hi s empl oyer s. Ther e i s one t hi ng, however , whi ch an

equal l y unani mous t est i mony agr ees i n decl ar i ng t hat he

wi l l not do, and t hat i s, sel l hi s vot e, or be dr agooned i nt o

gi vi ng i t f or any one but hi s own choi ce ; he may, i ndeed,

be scar ed f r om vot i ng, but cannot be " squar ed, " a si ngul ar

Page 127 of 259

t est i mony, sur el y, of hi s pr ospect i ve val ue as a ci t i zen.

Equal l y st r ong i s t he evi dence of hi s r esol ut e det er mi nat i on

t o get hi s chi l dr en educat ed. I n some Sout her n St at es

t he chi l dr en ar e, I bel i eve, kept apar t , but i n t he onl y

school I have had t he chance of seei ng, bl ack and whi t e

chi l dr en wer e t oget her . They wer e not i n cl ass, but i n

t he f r ont of t he bar n- l i ke bui l di ng, used bot h f or chur ch

and school , havi ng j ust come out f or t he di nner hour .

Ther e was a l ar ge, sandy, t r ampl ed pl ace under t he t r ees,

by no means a bad pl ay- gr ound, on whi ch a f ew of t he

most ener get i c, t he bl acks i n t he maj or i t y, wer e pl ayi ng at

some game as we came up, t he myst er i es of whi ch I shoul d

have l i ked t o st udy. But t he l onger we st ayed, t he l ess

chance t her e seemed of t hei r goi ng on, and t he game

r emai ns a myst er y t o me st i l l . Wher e t hese chi l dr en,

some f i f t y i n number , came f r om, i s a pr obl em ; but t her e

t hey wer e, f r om somewher e. And ever ywher e, I hear , t he

bl acks ar e f or ci ng t he r unni ng, wi t h r espect t o educat i on,

and gr eat number s of t hem ar e showi ng a t hr i f t and ener gy

whi ch ar e l i kel y t o make t hem f or mi dabl e compet i t or s i n

t he st r uggl e f or exi st ence i n al l st at es sout h of Kent ucky,

at any r at e.

I n one depar t ment ( a ver y smal l one, no doubt ) , t hey

Vacat i on Rambl es 2 1 9

wi l l have cr owded out t he nat i ve whi t es i n a ver y shor t

t i me, i f I may j udge by our exper i ence i n t hi s house. We

number t wo l adi es and si x men, and our whol e ser vi ce i s

done by one boy. Our f i r st exper i ment was wi t h a young

nat i ve, who " r ear ed up " on t he f i r st mor ni ng at t he i dea

of havi ng t o bl ack boot s. Thi s pr ej udi ce, I t hi nk I t ol d

you, was r emoved f or t he moment , and he st ayed f or a

f ew days. Wher e i t was he " weakened on us " I coul d

not l ear n f or cer t ai n, but i ncl i ne t o t he bel i ef t hat i t was

ei t her havi ng t o car r y t he r acquet s and bal l s t o t he l awn-

t enni s gr ound, or t o get a f i r e t o bur n i n or der t o boi l t he

wat er f or a f our - o' cl ock t ea. Bot h t hese ser vi ces wer e

or der ed by t he l adi es, and I t hought I saw si gns ( t hough

I am f ar f r om cer t ai n) t hat hi s manl y soul r ose agai nst

f emi ni ne command. Be t hat as i t may, of f he went wi t h-

out war ni ng, and soon af t er Amos Hi l l ar r i ved, wi t h al most

pat het i c apol ogi es and a negr o boy, shor t of st at ur e, huge

of mout h, f abul ous i n t he appar ent age of hi s gar ment s,

named Jef f . He had no ot her name, he t ol d us, and di d

not know whet her i t si gni f i ed Jef f er son or Geof f r ey, or

wher e or how he got i t , or anyt hi ng about hi msel f , except

t hat he had got our pl ace at $5 a mont h, — at whi ch he

showed hi s i vor y, " some ! "

Fr om t hi s t i me al l was changed. Jef f , i t i s t r ue, af t er

t he f i r st t wo days, gave pr oof s t hat he was not conver t ed,

l i ke t he whi t e housemai d who had l ear ned t o sweep under

t he mat s. Hi s sweepi ng and t i dyi ng wer e deci dedl y t hose

of t he si nner , and he ent i r el y abandoned t he onl y har d

wor k we set hi m, as soon as i t was out of si ght f r om t he

Asyl um. I t was a pat h l eadi ng t o a shal l ow wel l , whi ch

t he boys had dug at t he bot t om of t he gar den. The l ast

t went y yar ds or so ar e on a st eeper i ncl i ne t han t he par t

next t he house, so Jef f st udi ousl y compl et ed t he f ew f eet

t hat wer e l ef t t o t he br ow, and never put pi ck or shovel

Page 128 of 259

on t he r emai nder , whi ch l ay behi nd t he f r i endl y br ow of

t he sl ope. But i n al l ot her di r ect i ons, wher e t he wor k

was mai nl y odd j obs, a r espect abl e ki nd of l oaf i ng, Jef f

was al ways t o t he f or e, acqui t t i ng hi msel f t o t he best , I

220 Vacat i on Rambl es

t hi nk, of hi s abi l i t y. We di d not get f ul l command of

hi m t i l l t he ar r i val of a young Texan cat t l e- dr i ver , who

t aught us t he pecul i ar cr y f or t he negr o, by appendi ng a

hi gh " Ho " t o hi s name, or r at her r unni ng t hem t oget her ,

so t hat t he whol e sounded, " Hoj ef f ! " as near l y as possi bl e

one syl l abl e. Even t he l adi es pi cked up t he cr y, and

t hencef or war d Jef f ' s subst i t ut e f or t he " Anon, anon, si r ! "

of t he El i zabet han wai t er was i nst ant aneous. He bui l t a

camp- oven, l i ke t hose of t he Vol unt eer s at Wi mbl edon,

and neat er of const r uct i on, f r om whi ch he suppl i ed a

r easonabl y const ant pr ovi si on of hot wat er bet ween si x

and si x, of cour se cut t i ng hi s own l ogs f or t he f i r e. Hi s

hi ghest achi evement was i r oni ng t he l adi es' cot t on dr esses,

whi ch t hey decl ar ed he di d not ver y badl y. Most of us

ent r ust ed hi m wi t h t he washi ng of f l annel shi r t s and socks,

whi ch at any r at e wer e f ai t hf ul l y i mmer sed i n suds, and

hung up t o dr y under our eyes. The l aundr y was an

ar my t ent , pi t ched at t he back of t he Asyl um, wher e Jef f

spent near l y al l hi s t i me when not under or der s, and

gener al l y eat i ng an appl e, of whi ch t her e was al ways a

sack, a pr esent f r om some r anche- owner , or br ought over

f r om t he gar den, l yi ng about , and open t o manki nd at

l ar f i f e. I never coul d f i nd out whet her he coul d r ead.

One eveni ng he came up pr oudl y t o ask whet her hi s mai l

had come, and sur e enough when t he mai l ar r i ved t her e

was a post - car d, whi ch he cl ai med. We t hought he woul d

ask one of us t o r ead i t f or hi m, but wer e di sappoi nt ed.

He had a habi t of cr ooni ng over and over agai n al l day

some scr ap of a song. One of t hese exci t ed my cur i osi t y

exceedi ngl y, but I never succeeded i n get t i ng mor e t han

t wo l i nes out of hi m —

Oh my ! oh my ! I ' ve got a hundr ed dol l ar s i n a mi ne !

One had a cr ave t o hear what came of t hose 100 dol l ar s.

I t seems i t i s so al most uni ver sal l y. The near est appr oach

t o a compl et e negr o di t t y whi ch I have been abl e t o st r i ke

i s one whi ch t he Texan gi ves, wi t h a wonder f ul r ol l of t he

wor d " char i ot , " whi ch cannot be wr i t t en. I t r uns : —

Vacat i on Rambl es 2 2 1

The Debbi e he chase me r ound a st ump,

Gwi ne f or t o car r y me home :

He cat ch me most at eber y j ump,

Gwi ne f or t o car r y me home.

Swi ng l ow, sweet chay- o- t ,

Gwi ne f or t o car r y me home.

The Debbi e he make one gr ab at me,

Page 129 of 259

Gwi ne, et c. ,

Pi e mi ssed me, and my soul goed f r ee,

Gwi ne, et c.

Swi ng l ow, et c.

Oh ! won' t we have a gay ol d t i me,

Gwi ne, et c.

A eat i n' up o' honey, and a dr i nki n' up o' wi ne.

Gwi ne, et c.

Swi ng l ow, et c.

Thi s, si r , I t hi nk you wi l l agr ee wi t h me, t hough pr eci ous,

i s obvi ousl y a f r agment onl y. I t t ook our Texan many

mont hs t o pi ck i t up, even i n t hi s mut i l at ed condi t i on.

But af t er al l , Jef f ' s char act er and capaci t y come out most

i n t he di r ect i on of hoot s. I t i s f r om hi s at t i t ude wi t h

r egar d t o t hem t hat I i ncl i ne t o t hi nk t hat t he Bl ack

r ace have a gr eat f ut ur e i n t hese St at es. You may have

gat her ed f r om pr evi ous l et t er s t hat t her e i s a cl ear , t hough

not a wel l mar ked, di vi si on i n t hi s set t l ement as t o bl acki ng.

Amos Hi l l bui l ds on i t deci dedl y, and woul d have ever y

f ar mer appear i n bl acked boot s, at any r at e on Sunday.

The opposi t i on i s l ed by a young f ar mer of gr eat ener gy

and f amous t emper , who, havi ng been " st r apped, " or l ef t

wi t hout a penny, 300 mi l es f r om t he Paci f i c coast , amongst

t he Mexi can mi nes, and havi ng made hi s hands keep hi s

head i n t he wi l dest of ear t hl y set t l ement s, has a st r ong

cont empt f or al l ameni t i es of cl ot hi ng, whi ch i s shar ed by

t he geol ogi st and ot her s. How t he poi nt wi l l be set t l ed

at l ast , I cannot guess. I t st ands over whi l e t he l adi es

ar e st i l l her e, and I have act ual l y seen t he " st r apped " one

gi vi ng hi s wondr ous boot s a sl y l i ck or t wo of bl acki ng

on Sunday mor ni ng. But , anyhow, t he bl acks wi l l be

222 Vacat i on Rambl es

cor di al l y on t he si de of pol i sh and t he ar i st ocr acy. Thi s

one mi ght , per haps, have ant i ci pat ed ; but what I was not

pr epar ed f or , was Jef f ' s appar ent passi on f or boot s. I own

a f i ne, st r ong pai r of shoot i ng- boot s, whi ch he wor shi pped

f or f i ve mi nut es at l east ever y mor ni ng. As my l ast day

i n t he Asyl um dr ew on, I coul d see he was t r oubl ed i n hi s

mi nd. At l ast , out i t came. Wat chi ng hi s chance, when

no one was near , he si dl ed up, and poi nt i ng t o t hem on

t he squar e chest i n t he ver andah whi ch ser ved f or bl acki ng-

boar d, he sai d, " I ' d l i ke t o buy dem boot s. " Af t er my

f i r st ast oni shment was over , I expl ai ned t o hi m t hat I

coul dn' t af f or d t o sel l t hem f or l ess t han about si x weeks

of hi s wages, and t hat , mor eover , I want ed t hem f or

mysel f , as I coul d get none such her e. He was much

di sappoi nt ed, and mut t er ed f r equent l y, " I ' d l i ke t o buy

dem boot s ! " — but my hear t di d not sof t en.

Per haps I ought r at her t o be gi vi ng your r eader s mor e

ser i ous exper i ences, but somehow t he negr o i s apt t o r un

one out i nt o chaf f . However , I wi l l concl ude wi t h one

f act , whi ch seems t o me a ver y st r i ki ng conf i r mat i on of my

vi ew. Al l Amer i cans ar e r eadi ng t he Fool ' s Er r and, a

Page 130 of 259

power f ul novel , f ounded on t he st at e of t hi ngs af t er t he

war i n t he Kukl ux t i mes. I t i s wr i t t en by a Sout her n

j udge, a f ai r and cl ever man, cl ear l y, but one who has no

mor e f ai t h i n t he negr o' s power t o r ai se hi msel f t o any -

t hi ng above hewi ng wood and dr awi ng wat er f or t he

" Caucasi an " t han C. J. Taney hi msel f . I n al l t hat book

t her e i s no si ngl e i nst ance of t he dr awi ng of a mean,

cor r upt , or depr aved negr o ; but t he negr oes ar e r epr esent ed

as f ul l of pat i ence, t r ust f ul ness, shr ewdness, and power of

many ki nds.

The Openi ng Day

Rugby, Tennessee.

Our openi ng day dr ew near , not wi t hout r ousi ng t he most

ser i ous mi sgi vi ngs i n t he mi nds of most of us whet her we

Vacat i on Rambl es

coul d possi bl y be r eady t o r ecei ve our guest s. I nvi t at i ons

had been i ssued t o our nei ghbour s — f r i ends, as we had

l ear nt t o est eem t hem — i n Ci nci nnat i , Knoxvi l l e, Chat anooga,

whose hospi t al i t i es we had enj oyed, and who had expr essed

a cor di al sympat hy wi t h our ent er pr i se, and a desi r e t o

vi si t us. We l ooked al so f or some of our own ol d member s

f r om di st ant New Engl and, i n al l pr obabi l i t y sevent y or

ei ght y guest s, t o l odge and boar d, and convey f r om and

back t o t he r ai l way, seven mi l es over our new r oad, — no

smal l under t aki ng, under our ci r cumst ances. But t he

hot el was st i l l i n t he hands of t he cont r act or , f r om whom,

as yet , onl y t he upper f l oor s had been r escued. The

st ai r case want ed bani st er s, and t he hal l and l i vi ng- r ooms

wer e st i l l onl y hal f - wai nscot t ed, and f ul l of car pent er s'

benches and pl ast er er s' t r ays ; whi l e t he f ur ni t ur e and

cr ocker y l umber ed up t he bi g bar n, or st ood about i n cases

on t he br oad ver andah. As f or our r oad, i t was spl endi d,

so f ar as i t went , but some t wo mi l es wer e st i l l mer el y a

f or est t r ack, f r om whi ch al l t r ees and st umps had been

r emoved, but t hat was al l ; and t he br i dge over t he Cl ear

For k st r eam, by whi ch t he t own si t e i s ent er ed, had onl y

t he f i r st cr oss t i mber s l ai d f r om pi er t o pi er , whi l e t he

appr oaches seemed t o l i e i n hopel ess, wel t er i ng conf usi on,

di f f i cul t on hor seback, i mpossi bl e on wheel s. However ,

t he manager decl ar ed t hat we shoul d dr i ve over t he br i dge

on Sat ur day af t er noon, and t hat t he cont r act or shoul d be

out of t he hot el by Monday mi dday. Wi t h t hi s we wer e

obl i ged t o be cont ent , t hough i t was r unni ng t hi ngs f i ne,

as we l ooked f or our guest s on t hat Monday af t er noon, and

t he openi ng was f i xed f or t he next mor ni ng. And so i t

came t o pass, as t he manager sai d. Br i dge and r oad wer e

decl ar ed passabl e by t he named t i me, t hough ner vous per sons

mi ght wel l have t hought t wi ce bef or e at t empt i ng t he f or mer

i n t he heavy omni buses hi r ed f or t he occasi on ; and we

wer e abl e t o get possessi on and move f ur ni t ur e and cr ocker y

i nt o t he hot el , t hough t he car pent er s st i l l hel d t he unf i ni shed

st ai r case.

So f ar so good ; but st i l l ever yt hi ng, we f el t , depended on

Page 131 of 259

224 Vacat i on Rambl es

t he weat her . I f t he gl or i ous days we had been havi ng

hel d, al l woul d be wel l . The pr omi se was f ai r up t o

Sunday eveni ng, but at sunset t her e was a change. Amos

Hi l l shook hi s head, and t he geol ogi st ' s aner oi d bar omet er

gave omi nous si gns. They pr oved onl y t oo cor r ect . Ear l y

i n t he ni ght t he r ai n set i n, and by daybr eak, when we

wer e al r eady ast i r , a st eady, sof t , sear chi ng r ai n was comi ng

down per pendi cul ar l y, whi ch l ast ed, wi t h scar cel y a br eak,

cl ear t hr ough t he day, and t i l l mi dni ght . Wi t h f eel i ngs

of bl ank despai r we t hought of t he new r oad, sof t ened i nt o

a Sl ough of Despond, and t he hast i l y t hr own- up appr oaches

t o t he br i dge gi vi ng way under t he l aden omni buses, and

wai t ed our f at e. I t was, as usual , bet t er t han we l ooked

f or . The mor ni ng t r ai n f r om Chat anooga woul d br i ng our

sout her n guest s i n t i me f or ear l y di nner , i f no br eak - down

happened ; and sur e enough, wi t hi n hal f an hour of t he

expect ed t i me up came t he omni buses, escor t ed t o t he

hot el door by t he manager and hi s son on hor seback ; and

t he Bi shop of Tennessee, wi t h hi s chapl ai n, t he Mayor of

Chat anooga, and a number of t he l eadi ng ci t i zens of t hat

ci t y and of Knoxvi l l e, descended i n t he r ai n. I n f i ve

mi nut es we wer e at our ease and happy. I f t hey had al l

been Engl i shmen on a pl easur e- t r i p, t hey coul d not have

t aken t he down- pour mor e cheer i l y as a mat t er of cour se,

and pl easant , r at her t han ot her wi se, af t er t he l ong dr ought .

They di ned, chat t ed, and smoked i n t he ver andah, and

t hen t r ot t ed of f i n gum coat s t o l ook r ound at t he wal ks,

gar dens, st r eet s, and cot s, escor t ed by " t he boys. " The

manager r epor t ed, wi t h pr i de, t hat t hey had come up i n

an hour and a quar t er , and wi t hout any ki nd of cont r et emps,

t hough, no doubt , t he new r oad was deep, i n pl aces.

Al l anxi et y was over f or t he moment , as t he Nor t her n

t r ai n, br i ngi ng our Ci nci nnat i and New Engl and f r i ends, was

not due t i l l af t er dar k. We sat down t o t ea i n det achment s

f r om si x t o ei ght , when, i f al l went wel l , t he nor t her ner s

woul d be about due. The t abl es wer e cl ear ed, and r el ai d

once mor e f or t hem, and ever y pr epar at i on made t o gi ve

t hem a war m wel come. Ni ne st r uck, and st i l l no si gn of

Vacat i on Rambl es 225

t hem ; t hen t en, hy whi ch t i me, i n t hi s ear l y count r y, al l

but some f our or f i ve anxi ous soul s had r et i r ed. We sat

r ound t he st ove i n t he hal l , and l i st ened t o t he war - st or i es

of t he Mayor of Chat anooga, and our host of t he Tabar d,

who had ser ved on opposi t e si des i n t he t er r i bl e campai gns

i n t he sout h of t he St at e, whi ch had ended at Mi ssi onar y

Ri dge, and f i l l ed t he nat i onal cemet er y of Chat anooga wi t h

14, 000 gr aves of Uni on sol di er s. But nei t her t he i nt er est

of t he st or i es t hemsel ves, nor t he pl easur e of seei ng how

compl et el y al l bi t t er ness had passed out of t he nar r at or s'

mi nds, coul d keep our t hought s f r om dwel l i ng on t he

pi t ch- dar k r oad, sodden by t hi s t i me wi t h t he r ai n, and

t he mauvai s pas of t he br i dge. El even st r uck, and now i t

became t oo ser i ous f or anyt hi ng but anxi ous peer i ngs i nt o

t he bl ack ni ght , and consi der at i ons as t o what coul d be

Page 132 of 259

done. We had or der ed l ant er ns, and wer e on t he poi nt of

st ar t i ng f or t he br i dge, when f ai nt sounds, as of men si ngi ng

i n chor us, came t hr ough t he dar kness. They gr ew i n

vol ume, and now we coul d hear t he omni buses, f r om whi ch

came a r ol l of , " John Br own' s body l i es moul der i ng i n

t he gr ave, " gi ven wi t h a swi ng and pr eci si on whi ch t ol d of

ol d campai gner s. That st i r r i ng mel ody coul d har dl y have

been mor e wel come t o t he f i r st l i ne wai t i ng f or suppor t s,

on some har d- f ought bat t l e- gr ound, t han i t was t o us. The

omni buses dr ew up, a dense cl oud r i si ng f r om t he dr enched

hor ses and mul es, and t he si nger s got out , st i l l keeni ng up

t hei r chor us, whi ch onl y ceased on t he ver andah, and must

have r oused ever y sl eeper i n t he set t l ement . The Ol d Bay

St at e, Ohi o, and Kent ucky had sent us a set of as st al war t

good f el l ows as ever sang a chor us or at e a beef - st eak at

mi dni ght ; and whi l e t hey wer e engaged i n t he l at t er

oper at i on, t hey t ol d how f r om t he br eak- down of a f r ei ght -

t r ai n, t hei r s had been t hr ee hour s l at e, how t he dar kness

had kept t hem t o a f oot ' s- pace, how t he l ast omni bus had

gi ven out i n t he heavy pl aces, and had t o be const ant l y

hel ped on by a pai r of mul es det ached f r om one of t he

ot her s. " Al l ' s wel l t hat ends wel l , " and i t was wi t h a

j oyf ul sense of r el i ef t hat we pi l ot ed such of our guest s as

Q

226 Vacat i on Rambl es

t he hot el coul d not hol d acr oss t o t hei r cot s i n t he bar r acks

at one i n t he mor ni ng. By ni ne, t he gl or i ous Sout her n

sun had f ai r l y vanqui shed r ai n and mi st , and t he whol e

pl at eau was abl aze wi t h t he aut umn t i nt s, and ever y l eaf

gl eami ng f r om i t s r ecent shower - bat h. Bugby out di d

her sel f and " l eapt t o musi c and t o l i ght " i n a way whi ch

ast oni shed even her ol dest and most ent husi ast i c ci t i zens,

some hal f dozen of whom had had somet hi ng l i ke t wel ve

mont hs' exper i ence of her moods and t emper s. Br eakf ast

began at si x, and ended at ni ne, and f or t hr ee hour s bat ches

of wel l - f ed vi si t or s wer e t ur ned out t o saunt er r ound t he

wal ks, t he Engl i sh gar dens, and l awn- t enni s gr ounds, unt i l

t he hour of el even, f i xed by t he Bi shop f or t he openi ng

ser vi ce. The chur ch bei ng as yet onl y some si x f eet above

gr ound, t hi s cer emony was t o be hel d i n t he ver andah of

t he hot el . Meant i me, Bi shop and chapl ai n wer e busy

among " t he boys, " or gani si ng a choi r t o si ng t he hymns

and l ead t he r esponses. The whol e popul at i on wer e

gat her i ng r ound t he hot el , some f our or f i ve buggi es, and

per haps t went y hor ses, hal t er ed t o t he near est t r ees, showed

t he i nt er est exci t ed i n t he nei ghbour hood. I n addi t i on t o

t he seat s i n t he ver andah, chai r s and benches wer e pl aced

on t he gr ound bel ow f or t he sur pl us congr egat i on, behi nd

whom a f r i nge of whi t e and bl ack nat i ves r egar ded t he

pr oceedi ngs wi t h gr ave at t ent i on. Punct ual t o t i me, t he

Bi shop and hi s chapl ai n, i n r obes, t ook t hei r pl aces at

t he cor ner of t he ver andah, and gave out t he f i r st ver ses

of t he " Ol d Hundr edt h. " Ther e was a moment ' s pause,

whi l e t he newl y- or gani sed choi r exchanged gl ances as t o

who shoul d l ead of t ' , and t he pause was f at al t o t hem f or

t he moment . For on t he Bi shop' s l ef t st ood t he st al war t

New Engl ander who had l ed t he pi l gr i ms of t he pr evi ous

eveni ng i n t he " John Br own" chor us. He, unawar e of

t he epi scopal ar r angement s, and of t he consecment vest ed

Page 133 of 259

r i ght s of " t he boys, " br oke out wi t h " Al l peopl e t hat on

ear t h do dwel l , " i n a voi ce whi ch car r i ed t he whol e assembl y

wi t h hi m, and at once r educed " t he boys" t o humbl e

f ol l ower s. They had t hei r r evenge, however , when i t came

Vacat i on Rambl es 227

t o t he second hymn at t he end of t he ser vi ce. I t was

" Jer usal em, t he gol den, " whi ch i s appar ent l y sung t o a

di f f er ent t une i n Bost on t o t hat i n use i n Engl and, so

t hough our musi cal guest st r uggl ed manf ul l y t hr ough t he

f i r st l i ne, and had al most di scomf i t ed " t he boys" by sheer

f or ce of l ungs, number s pr evai l ed, and he was br ought i nt o

l i ne. The ser vi ce was a shor t one, consi st i ng of t wo

psal ms, " Lor d, who shal l dwel l i n t hy t aber nacl e ?" and

" Except t he Lor d bui l d t he house, " t he chapt er of Sol omon' s

pr ayer at t he dedi cat i on of t he Templ e, hal f a dozen of t he

Chur ch col l ect s, and a pr ayer by t he Bi shop t hat t he t own

and set t l ement mi ght be bui l t up i n r i ght eousness and t he

f ear and l ove of God, and pr ove a bl essi ng t o t he St at e.

Then, af t er t he bl essi ng, t he gat her i ng r esol ved i t sel f i nt o a

publ i c meet i ng af t er Amer i can f ashi on. The Boar d spoke

t hr ough t hei r r epr esent at i ves, and Bi shop, j udge, gener al

manager , and vi si t or s exchanged f r i endl y or at or i cal buf f et s,

and wi shes and pr opheci es f or t he pr osper i t y of t he New

Jer usal em i n t he Sout her n hi ghl ands. A mor e genui ne or

heal t hi er act of wor shi p i t has not been our good- f or t une

t o at t end i n t hese l at e year s.

Di nner began i mmedi at el y af t er war ds, and t hen t he

company scat t er ed agai n, some t o sel ect t own l ot s, some

t o t he best vi ews, t he Bi shop t o or gani se a vest r y, and

i nduce t wo of " t he boys " t o become l ay r eader s, pendi ng

t he ar r i val of a par son ( i n whi ch he was emi nent l y

successf ul ) ; t he chapl ai n t o t he Cl ear For k wi t h one of

" t he boys' " f i shi ng- r ods, af t er bl ack bass; and a mot l ey

cr owd t o t he l awn- t enni s gr ound, t o see some set pl ayed

whi ch woul d have done no di scr edi t t o Wi mbl edon, and

exci t ed much wonder and some ent husi asm amongst nat i ves

and vi si t or s. A cheer f ul eveni ng f ol l owed, i n whi ch t he

new pi ano i n t he hot el si t t i ng- r oom di d good ser vi ce, and

many war and ot her st or i es wer e t ol d r ound t he bi g hal l

st ove. Ear l y t he next mor ni ng t he omni buses began

car r yi ng of f t he vi si t or s, and by ni ght Rugby had set t l ed

down agai n t o i t s or di nar y l i f e, not , however , wi t hout a

sense of st r engt h gai ned f or t he wor k of bui l di ng up a

228 Vacat i on Rambl es

communi t y whi ch shal l know how t o compor t i t sel f i n good

and bad t i mes, and shal l hel p, i nst ead of hi nder i ng, i t s

sons and daught er s i n l eadi ng a br ave, si mpl e, and Chr i st i an

l i f e.

Li f e i n an Amer i can Li ner

I t i s some year s si nce I addr essed you l ast over

t hi s si gnat ur e — i ndeed I shoul d doubt i f f i ve per cent of

your pr esent r eader s wi l l r emember t he " har vest s " of a

qui et ( ought I t o say " l azy " r at her t han " qui et " 1) eye,

Page 134 of 259

whi ch I was wont i n t hose days, by your conni vance, t o

submi t t o t hem i n vacat i on t i mes. Somehow t o- day t he

ol d i nst i nct has come back on me, possi bl y because I happen

t o be on an er r and whi ch shoul d be of no smal l i nt er est t o

us Engl i sh j ust now ; possi bl y because t he l ast days of an

At l ant i c cr ossi ng seem t o be so nat ur al l y pr ovocat i ve of t he

i nst i nct f or gossi pi ng, t hat one i s not sat i sf i ed wi t h t he

abundant oppor t uni t i es one get s on boar d t he vessel i n

whi ch one i s a l uxur i ous pr i soner f or t en days.

We have been goi ng day and ni ght si nce we l ef t Queens -

t own har bour at an aver age r at e of 18 ( l and) mi l es an

hour . We ar e mor e t han 1300 passenger s ( r oughl y 200

sal oon, and t he r est st eer age) , whose baggage, when added

t o t he l ar ge car go of dr y goods we ar e car r yi ng, si nks our

beaut i f ul cr af t t i l l she dr aws 24 f eet of wat er . She her sel f

i s mor e t han 150 yar ds l ong, and wei ghs as she passes

Sandy Hook, — wel l , I am f ai r l y unabl e t o cal cul at e what

she wei ghs, but as much, at any r at e, as hal f a dozen

l uggage- t r ai ns on shor e. We have had our l ast , or t he

capt ai n' s di nner , at whi ch f i sh, t o al l appear ance as f r esh as

i f t he sai l or s had j ust caught t hem over t he si de, and

l et t uces, as cr i sp as i f t he st ewar d had a nur ser y gar den

down bel ow, have been ser ved as par t of a di nner whi ch

woul d have done no di scr edi t t o a f i r st - cl ass hot el ; begi n-

ni ng wi t h t wo sor t s of soup, and endi ng wi t h t wo sor t s of

i ces. Si mi l ar di nner s, wi t h ot her meal s t o mat ch — f our

sol i d ones i n t he t went y- f our hour s, besi des odds and ends

Vacat i on Rambl es 229

— have been ser ved day by day, wi t hout a hi t ch, i n a cabi n

kept as sweet as At l ant i c ai r , const ant l y pumped i nt o i t

by t he engi ne, can make i t .

By t he way, si r , I may r emar k her e, i n connect i on wi t h

our f eedi ng, t hat i f we mi ght be t aken as aver age speci mens

of our r ace, t her e i s no gr ound what ever f or anxi et y as t o

t he Angl o- Saxon di gest i on, of whi ch some di sagr eeabl e

phi l osopher s have spoken wi t h di sr espect and f or ebodi ng

i n r ecent year s. Ther e wer e, per haps, t en per sons whose

nat i ve t ongue was not Engl i sh, and yet we car r i ed our f our

sol i d meal s a day wi t h r esol ut i on bor der i ng on t he her oi c.

The r acks wer e never on t he t abl es, and we had onl y f or a

f ew hour s a swel l , whi ch t hi nned our r anks f or t wo meal s ;

and yet when I l ook r ound, and make such i nqui r y as I

can, I can see or hear of not hi ng mor e t han a ver y sl i ght

t r ace of dyspepsi a her e and t her e. The pr i nci pal change

I r emar ked i n t he manner s and cust oms on t he voyage was

t he mar ked i ncr ease of pl ay and bet t i ng on boar d. When

I f i r st cr ossed, t en year s ago, t her e was not hi ng mor e t han

an occasi onal game at whi st i n t he sal oon or smoki ng- r oom.

Thi s voyage i t was not easy t o get out of t he way of har d

pl ay except on deck. The best cor ner of t he smoki ng-

r oom was occupi ed f r om br eakf ast t i l l " Out l i ght s " by a

st eady poker par t y, and ot her smal l er and mor e casual

gr oups pl ayed f i t f ul l y at t he ot her t abl es. Ther e wer e

al ways whi st and ot her games goi ng on i n t he sal oon, but

of a sober er and ( i n a pecuni ar y sense) mor e i nnocent

char act er . Ther e wer e " pool s " of a sover ei gn or a hal f

sover ei gn on ever y event of t he day, " t he r un " bei ng t he

most exci t i ng i ssue. The dr awer of t he wi nni ng number

Page 135 of 259

sel dom pocket ed l ess t han 40, when i t was post ed on t he

capt ai n' s c har t at noon. I hear d t hat pl ay i s r at her

f av our ed now t han ot her wi s e on al l t he l i nes , as a per -

cent age i s al mos t al way s pai d t o t he f unds of t he Sai l or s '

Or phan As y l um, f or whi c h ex c el l ent c har i t y a c ol l ec t i on

i s al s o l egi t i mat el y made dur i ng ev er y pas s age. We wer e

good s uppor t er s , and c ol l ec t ed near l y

70 at our ent er t ai n-

ment , whi c h I at t r i but e par t l y t o t he f ac t t hat we had on

230 Vac at i on Rambl es

boar d a l eadi ng Amer i c an ac t or , who mos t good- nat ur edl y

" t ur ned hi ms el f l oos e " f or us , and t hat t he pl at es at t he

t wo door s wer e hel d by t he daught er s of an Engl i s h ear l ,

and an ( l at e, al as ! ) Amer i c an ambas s ador of gr eat emi nenc e.

The c ount r i es c oul d not hav e been mor e c har ac t er i s t i c al l y

or c har mi ngl y r epr es ent ed, and t he c har i t y owes t hem i t s

bes t t hank s .

Ther e was t he us ual mi ne of i nf or mat i on and ent er t ai n-

ment , t o be s t r uc k wi t h eas e by t he mer es t nov i c e i n c on-

ver s at i onal s haf t - s i nk i ng. Why i s i t t hat f ol k ar e s o muc h

mor e r eady t o t al k on an At l ant i c s t eamer t han el s ewher e %

I my s el f " s t r uc k i l e, " i n s ev er al di r ec t i ons , one of a s ad

ki nd — Sc ot c h f ar mer s of t he hi ghes t t y pe goi ng out t o s el ec t

new homes , wher e t her e wi l l be no f ac t or s . The mos t

r emar k abl e of t hes e appear ed t o hav e made up hi s mi nd

f i nal l y when he had been t ol d t hat he woul d not be al l owed

a penny at t he end of hi s l eas e f or t he addi t i on of t hr ee

r ooms he was obl i ged t o mak e t o hi s hous e, as hi s f ami l y

wer e gr owi ng up. Hav e l andl or ds and f ac t or s gone mad,

i n f ac e of t he s er i ous t i mes whi c h ar e on t hem 1

Ther e wer e qui t e an abundanc e of par s ons , of many de-

nomi nat i ons , and al l of mar k . Pr ay er s on Sunday wer e

r ead by a New Engl and Epi s c opal i an, and t he s er mon

pr eac hed by a Sc ot c h Fr ee Ki r k mi ni s t er . Al l wer e men

of br oad v i ews , i n s ome c as es v er gi ng on Lat i t udi nar i ani s m

t o a poi nt whi c h r ej oi c ed my her et i c s oul , e. g. a Pr ot es t ant

mi ni s t er i n a gr eat Amer i c an wes t er n c i t y , whos e c hur c h

had r ec ent l y been r ebui l t . Look i ng r ound t o f i nd wher e

hi s f l oc k c oul d be bes t hous ed on Sunday s , pendi ng r ec on-

st r uc t i on, he f ound t he nei ghbour i ng s y nagogue by f ar t he

mos t c onv eni ent , and pr opos ed t o go t her e. Hi s peopl e

cor di al l y agr eed, and des pi t e t he f ur i ous r agi ng of t he

( s o- c al l ed) r el i gi ous pr es s , i nt o t he s y nagogue t hey went

f or t hei r Sunday s er v i c es , s t ay ed t her e s i x mont hs , and

when t hey l ef t , wer e onl y c har ged f or t he gas by t he

Rabbi . An i nt i mac y s pr ung up. I t appear ed t hat t he

Rabbi l ook ed upon our Lor d as t he f i r s t of t he i ns pi r ed

men of hi s nat i on, gr eat er t han Mos es or Samuel , and i n

Vac at i on Rambl es 231

t he end t he t wo c ongr egat i ons met at a s er v i c e c onduc t ed

par t l y by t he Rabbi and par t l y by my i nf or mant !

— a not e-

wor t hy s i gn of t he t i mes , but one at whi c h I f ear many

ev en of y our r eader s wi l l s hak e t hei r heads .

Ther e wer e s ome Conf eder at e of f i c er s , r eady t o t al k

Page 136 of 259

wi t hout bi t t er ness of t he war , and I was ver y gl ad t o

i mpr ove t he occasi on, havi ng never had t he chance of a

l ook f r om t hat si de t he cur t ai n. Anyt hi ng mor e gr i m and

humor ous t han t he pi ct ur e of Sout her n soci et y dur i ng t hose

awf ul f our year s I never hope t o meet wi t h. The ent i r e

want of r egul ar medi ci nes, especi al l y bar k, was t hei r

gr eat est t r oubl e i n hi s eyes. I n hi s br i gade t hei r r emedy

f or " t he shakes " came t o be a pl ast er of r aw t ur pent i ne,

j ust dr awn f r om t he pi ne woods, l ai d on down t he back.

Some one suggest ed t hat pi l l s wer e ver y por t abl e, and

easi l y i mpor t ed. " Pi l l s ! " he sai d scor nf ul l y ; " pi l l s, si r ,

wer e as scar ce i n our br i gade as t he gr ace of God i n a

gr og shop at mi dni ght . " Not hi ng so much br ought out t o

me t he hor r or s of ci vi l Avar as hi s account of t he per f ect

knowl edge each si de had of t he pl ans and doi ngs on t he

ot her . A Nor t her n of f i cer , he had si nce come t o know,

was l eani ng agai nst a post wi t hi n t hr ee yar ds of Jef f .

Davi s when he made hi s f amous speech announci ng t he

super sessi on of Joe Johnson as t he gener al f r ont i ng

Sher man. Sher man had hear d i t i n a f ew hour s, and

was act i ng on t he news bef or e ni ght f al l . The most t er r i bl e

exampl e was t hat of t he mi ni ng of t he Ri chmond l i nes.

The def ender s knew al most t o a f oot wher e t he mi nes

wer e, and when t hey wer e t o be f i r ed. Br eckenbr i dge' s

di vi si on, i n whi ch he f ought , wer e dr awn up i n l i ne t o

r epel t he at t ack when t he ear t hwor ks went up i n t he ai r ,

and t he assai l ant s r ushed i nt o t he gr eat gap whi ch had

been made, and whi ch was near l y f i l l ed, bef or e t hey f el l

back, wi t h t he bodi es of Nor t her n sol di er s. For t he l ast

t wo year s, i n al most ever y bat t l e he had al l he coul d do t o

hol d hi s own agai nst t he f r ont at t ack, knowi ng and f eel i ng

al l t he whi l e t hat t he enemy was over l appi ng and massi ng

on bot h f l anks, and t hat he woul d have t o r et i r e hi s

232 Vacat i on Rambl es

r egi ment bef or e t hey coul d cl ose. And yet t hey hel d

t oget her t o t he l ast !

I pi t y mot her s, t oo, down Sout h,

Al t l i o' t hey sat amongst t he scor ner s.

I t i s a cur i ous exper i ence, and one wel l wor t h t r yi ng,

t hi s t en days' voyage. When you go on boar d at Li ver -

pool , and l ook r ound at t he f i r st di nner , t her e ar e pr obabl y

not hal f a dozen f aces you ever saw bef or e. By t he t i me

you wal k out of t he shi p, bag i n hand, on t o t he New Yor k

l andi ng- pl ace, t her e ar e scar cel y hal f a dozen wi t h whom

you have not a pl easant speaki ng acquai nt ance ; whi l e wi t h

a not i nconsi der abl e number you f eel ( unl ess you have had

si ngul ar l y bad l uck) as i f you must have known t hem

i nt i mat el y f or year s, wi t hout havi ng been awar e of i t . As

you t ouch t he l and, t he expr ess men and hot el t out s r ush

on 3 r ou, and t he spel l i s br oken. The l i t t l e soci et y r esol ves

i t sel f at t hei r t ouch i nt o separ at e at oms, whi ch ar e whi r l ed

away, wi t hout t i me t o wi sh one anot her God - speed, i nt o

t he t ur bul ent ocean of New Yor k l i f e, never agai n t o be

gat her ed t oget her as a soci et y i n t hi s wor l d, f or wor shi p,

f or f ood, or f un. " The pr esent l i f e of man, ki ng ! "

sai d a Saxon t hane i n Edwi n' s " Wi t enagemot , when t l i ey

wer e consul t i ng whet her August i ne and hi s pr i est s shoul d

be al l owed t o set t l e at Cant er bur y, " r emi nds me of one of

Page 137 of 259

your wi nt er f east s wher e you si t wi t h your t hanes and

counsel l or s. The hear t h bl azes i n our mi dst , and a gr at e-

f ul heat i s spr ead ar ound, whi l e st or ms of r ai n and snow

ar e r agi ng wi t hout . A l i t t l e spar r ow ent er s at one door

and f l i es del i ght ed ar ound us, t i l l i t depar t s t hr ough t he

ot her . Such i s t he l i f e of man, and we ar e as i gnor ant of

t he st at e whi ch went bef or e us as of t hat whi ch wi l l f ol l ow

i t . Thi ngs bei ng so, " went on t he t hane, " I f eel t hat i f

t hi s new f ai t h can gi ve us mor e cer t ai nt y, i t deser ves t o be

r ecei ved, " — whi ch l ast sent i ment has, I al l ow, no bear i ng on

t he pr esent subj ect , nor , per haps you wi l l say, has t he r est

of i t . But somehow t he ol d st or y came i nt o my head so

vi vi dl y as I was l eavi ng t he st eamer , t hat I f eel l i ke t ossi ng

Vacat i on Rambl es 2^

- 30

i t on t o your r eader s, t o see what t hey can make of i t ;

t hough I own, on l ooki ng at i t agai n, I am not mysel f cl ear

as t o t he i nt er pr et at i on, or whet her I am t he spar r ow or

t he t hane.

New Yor k i s mor e over whel mi ng t han ever , — sur el y

t he most t r emendous human mi l l on t hi s pl anet ; but I

must not begi n upon i t at t he end of a l et t er .

Li f e i n Texas

Ranche on t he Ri o Gr ande,

mh Sept ember 1884.

I t must be many year s now ( how t hey do shut up i n t hese

l at t er days l i ke a t el escope) si nce I conf i ded t o you i n t hese

col umns t he j oy — not unmi xed wi t h r ever ence — of my

f i r st i nt er vi ew wi t h t hat wor t hy smal l per son ( I am sur e

he must be a per son) t he t umbl e- bug of t he U. S. A. I

l ooked upon hi m i n t hose days as on t he whol e t he most

i ndust r i ous and at hl et i c l i t t l e cr eat ur e i t had ever been

my pr i vi l ege t o encount er . I am obl i ged now t o t ake

most of t hat back, f or t o- day I have di scover ed t hat he

i sn' t a ci r cumst ance t o hi s Mexi can cousi n on t hi s si de t he

Ri o Gr ande. At any r at e, t he speci mens I have met wi t h

her e ar e not onl y bi gger , but wor k hal f as har d agai n, and

about t wi ce as cpi i ck. I was si t t i ng j ust now i n t he

ver andah i n f r ont of t hi s r anche cabi n, wai t i ng f or t he

hor ses t o be saddl ed- up at t he cor r al j ust bel ow, and

l ooki ng l azi l y, now east war d over t he r i ver and t he wi de

Texan pl ai ns beyond, f adi ng away i n t he haze t i l l t he

hor i zon l ooked l i ke t he At l ant i c i n a cal m, now west war d

t o t he j agged out l i ne of t he Si er r a Nevada, gl eami ng i n

t he sunshi ne si xt y mi l es away, when I became awar e of

somet hi ng movi ng at my f eet . Looki ng down I f ound

t hat i t was a t umbl e- bug r ol l i ng a bal l of di r t he had put

t oget her , t i l l i t was at l east f our t i mes as bi g as hi msel f ,

t owar ds t he r ough st ony descent j ust beyond t he ver andah,

Page 138 of 259

at a pace whi ch f ai r l y st agger ed me. I n a f ew seconds he

234 Vacat i on Rambl es

was acr oss t he f l oor , and i n amongst t he st ones whi ch l ay

t hi ckl y over t he sl ope beyond. Her e hi s t r oubl es began.

Fi r st he pushed hi s bal l backwar ds over a bi g st one, on

t he f ur t her si de of whi ch i t f el l , and he wi t h i t , headl ong

— no, not headl ong, st er n f or emost — some f i ve i nches,

r ol l i ng over one anot her t wi ce at t he bot t om. But he

never qui t t ed hol d, and began pushi ng away mer r i l y agai n

wi t hout a moment ' s pause. Then he r an t he bal l i nt o a

cul - de- sac bet ween t wo st ones, some i nches hi gh. Af t er

t wo or t hr ee dead heaves, whi ch l i f t ed t he bal l at l east

hi s own l engt h up t he si de of t he st ones — and you must

r emember , t o j udge of t he f eat , t hat he was st andi ng on

hi s head t o do i t — he qui t t ed hol d, t ur ned r ound, and

l ooked at t he si t uat i on. I am al most cer t ai n I saw hi m

scr at ch hi s ear , or at l east t he si de of hi s head, wi t h hi s

f or e - cl aw. I n a second or t wo he f i xed on agai n wi t h

hi s hi nd- cl aws, pushed t he bal l out of t he cul - de- sac, and

cont i nued hi s j our ney. I f t hat bug di dn' t put t wo and

t wo t oget her , by what pr ocess di d he get out of t hat cul -

de- sac 1 " Cogi t o, er go sum. " Was I wr ong i n cal l i ng hi m

a per son 1 Wel l , I won' t t r oubl e you f ur t her wi t h par t i cul ar s

of hi s j our ney, but he r an hi s bi g bal l i nt o hi s hol e under a

mesqui t e- bush, 19J yar ds f r om t he spot on t he ver andah

wher e I f i r st not i ced hi m, i n el even mi nut es and a f ew

seconds by my wat ch. I made a cal cul at i on bef or e mount -

i ng t hat , compar i ng my bug wi t h an aver age Mexi can, f i ve

f eet ei ght i nches hi gh, and wei ghi ng t en st one, t he bal l of

di r t woul d be at l east equal t o a bal e of cot t on, ei ght f eet

i n di amet er , and wei ghi ng hal f a t on, whi ch t he man woul d

have t o push or car r y 2 J mi l es i n el even mi nut es, t o equal

t he f eat of hi s t i ny f el l ow- ci t i zen. I n t he depr essed condi -

t i on of Mexi co, mi ght not t hi s enor mous bug- power be

ut i l i sed somehow f or t he benef i t of t he Republ i c 1

I had bar el y f i ni shed my ci pher i ng when I was cal l ed t o

hor se, and i n a f ew mi nut es was r i di ng acr oss a vast pl ai n,

near l y bar e of gr ass i n t hi s dr ought , but dot t ed wi t h

mesqui t e- bushes, pr i ckl y pear , and ot her scr ub, so t hat t he

gener al ef f ect was st i l l gr een. The r i di ng was r ough, as

Vacat i on Rambl es 235

much l oose st one l ay about , and badger s' , " Jack Rabbi t s' , "

and ot her cr eat ur es' hol es abounded ; but t he smal l Mexi can

hor se I r ode was per f ect l y sur e- f oot ed, and I ambl ed al ong,

swel l i ng wi t h pr i de at my quai nt saddl e, wi t h pummel

some ei ght i nches hi gh, and dependi ng l asso, showi ng t hat

f or t he t i me I was f r ee of t he honour abl e f r at er ni t y of

" gent l emen cow- puncher s. " Besi des mysel f , our par t y

consi st ed of t he t wo r anche- men — an Engl i shman and an

Amer i can, aged about t hi r t y, ol d comr ades on l ong dr i ves

1000 mi l es away t o t he Nor t h, but now anchor ed on t hi s

gl or i ous r anche on t he Ri o Gr ande — and a cowboy. The

Engl i shman' s yel l ow hai r was cr opped cl ose t o hi s head,

and hi s f ai r ski n was bur nt as r ed, I suppose, as ski n wi l l

bur n ; t he Mar yl ander ' s bl ack hai r was as cl osel y cr opped,

Page 139 of 259

and hi s ski n bur nt an equal l y deep br own. The cowboy,

an Engl i sh l ad of about t went y, r econci l ed t he t wo t ypes,

havi ng managed t o get hi s ski n t anned a deep r ed, r el i eved

by l ar ge dar k br own f r eckl es, f r om t he mi dst of whi ch hi s

gr eat bl ue eyes shone out i n comi cal cont r ast . I f ear —

The ver y mot her t hat hi m bar e,

She had not known her chi l d.

They wer e al l at t i r ed al i ke, i n br oad f el t sombr er os, bl ue

shi r t s, and t r ouser s t hr ust i nt o boot s r eachi ng t o t he knees.

Each had hi s l asso at pummel , and bet ween t hem t hey

car r i ed a r i f l e, f r yi ng- pan, cof f ee- pot , bi g l oaf , and f or e-

quar t er of a por ker — f or we wer e out f or a l ong day. A

mor e pi ct ur esque or ef f i ci ent - l ooki ng gr oup i t woul d be

har d t o f i nd. I must r esi st t he t empt at i on of t el l i ng al l

we di d or saw, and come at once t o our r i de home shor t l y

bef or e sunset . The r anche- men and I wer e abr east , and

t he cowboy a f ew yar ds behi nd, when we came acr oss a

bunch of cat t l e, conspi cuous amongst whi ch st r ode al ong

a st al war t year l i ng bul l cal f , Avhose shi ni ng br i ndl e hi de

and j aunt y ai r showed t hat he, at l east , was not suf f er i ng

f r om t he scant y f ood whi ch t he dr ought has l ef t f or t he

her ds on t hese wi de pl ai ns. He was al r eady as bi g as hi s

poor r aw- boned mot her , who went al ong pai nf ul l y pi cki ng

236 Vacat i on Rambl es

at ever y shr ub and t uf t i n her pat h, t o pr ovi de hi s eveni ng

meal at her own expense. Now t hese dude cal ves ( who

i nsi st on l i vi ng on t hei r par ent s, and wi l l do not hi ng f or

t hei r own l i vel i hood) can onl y be cur ed by t he i nser t i on of

a hor se- r i ng i n t he upper l i p, so t hat t hey cannot t ur n i t

up t o t ake hol d of t he mat er nal udder , and i t i s of t en i n

bad t i mes a mat t er of l i f e or deat h t o t he cows t o get

t hem r i nged. Af t er a conf er ence of a f ew seconds, t he

Mar yl ander shi f t ed t he r i f l e t o t he saddl e of t he Engl i sh-

man ( al r eady or nament ed wi t h t he f r yi ng- pan and t he

cof f ee- pot ) , and cal l i ng t o t he cowboy, dashed of f f or t he

bunch of cat t l e. Next moment t he cowboy shot past us

at f ul l speed, gat her i ng up hi s l asso as he went ; t he bul l -

cal f was " cut out " of t he bunch as i f by magi c, and went

st r ai ght away t hr ough mesqui t e- br ush and pr i ckl y pear s, at

a pace whi ch kept hi s pur suer s at t hei r ut most st r et ch not

t o l ose gr ound. I t was al l t hey coul d do t o hol d i t , never

f or a f ul l mi l e get t i ng wi t hi n l asso- r each of Bol i bor us, t he

r anche- man f ol l owi ng l i ke f at e, upr i ght f r om shoul der t o

t oe ( t hey r i de wi t h ver y l ong st i r r ups) , br i dl e hand l ow,

and r i ght hand swi ngi ng t he l asso sl owl y r ound hi s head,

awai t i ng hi s chance f or a t hr ow ; t he cowboy cl ose on hi s

f l ank ; r anche- man number t wo cl at t er i ng al ong, pot , ket t l e,

and r i f l e " soar i ng and si ngi ng" r ound hi s knees, but avai l -

i ng hi msel f of ever y t ur n i n t he chase, so as t o keep

wi t hi n t hi r t y or f or t y yar ds. I , a bad f our t h, but near

enough t o see t he whol e and shar e t he exci t ement ( i f ,

i ndeed, I hadn' t i t al l t o mysel f , t he spor t bei ng t o t he

r est a par t of t he dai l y r ound) . The cr i si s came j ust at

t he f oot of a mound, up whi ch Bol i bor us had gai ned some

yar ds, but i n t he descent had sl ackened hi s pace and t he pur -

suer s wer e on hi m. The l asso f l ew f r om t he r ai sed hand, and

was r ound hi s neck, a dext er ous t wi st br ought t he r ope acr oss

hi s f or el egs, and next moment he was over on hi s si de hal f

Page 140 of 259

t hr ot t l ed. I was up i n some f i ve seconds, dur i ng whi ch

hi s l assoer had hi m by t he hor ns, r anche- man number t wo

was pr one wi t h al l hi s wei ght upon hi s shoul der s, and t he

cowboy on hi s hi nd quar t er s, cat chi ng at hi s t ai l wi t h hi s O

Vacat i on Rambl es 237

l ef t hand. That hul l cal f ' s st r uggl e t o r i se was as super b

as Ber t r am Ri si ngham' s i n Rokeby, and as f ut i l e ; f or t he

cowboy had caught hi s t ai l and passed i t bet ween hi s

hi nd l egs, and by pul l i ng har d kept one l eg br andi shi ng

ai ml essl y i n t he ai r , whi l e t he wei ght of t he r anche- men

subdued hi s f or equar t er s. The r i ng was passed t hr ough

hi s upper l i p, and t he l asso was of f hi s neck i n a f ew seconds

mor e, and t he r anche- men t ur ned t o mount , sayi ng t o t he

cowboy, " Just hol d on a mi nut e. " The cowboy passed

t he t ai l back bet ween t he hi nd l egs, gr asped t he end f i r ml y,

and st ood expect ant . Bol i bor us l ay qui et f or a second or

t wo, and t hen bounded t o hi s f eet , gl ar i ng r ound i n r age

and pai n t o choose whi ch of hi s f oes t o go f or , when he

became awar e of somet hi ng wr ong behi nd, and l ooki ng

r ound, r eal i sed t he st at e of t he case. Down went hi s

head, and r ound he went wi t h a r ush f or hi s own t ai l end,

but t he t ai l and boy wer e equal t o t he occasi on, and t he

l at t er st i l l hol di ng on t i ght by t he f or mer , sent back a

def i ant ki ck at t he end of each r ush, whi ch, however ,

never got wi t hi n t wo f eet of t he bul l ' s nose, and coul d be

onl y l ooked upon as a pr oper def i ance. Then Bol i bor us

t r i ed st eal i ng r ound t o t ake hi s t ai l by sur pr i se, but al l t o

as l i t t l e pur pose, when t he r anche- men, who wer e now

bot h mount ed, t o end t he f ar ce, r ode r ound i n f r ont of t he

beast , caught hi s eye, and cr i ed, " Let go. " Whi ski ng hi s

f r eed t ai l i n t he ai r he made a r ush, but onl y a hal f - hear t ed

one, at t he near est , who j ust wheel ed hi s hor se, and as he

passed admi ni st er ed a cont empt uous t hwack over hi s l oi ns

wi t h a l asso. Bol i bor us now st ood l ooki ng down hi s nose

at t he appendant r i ng, r evol vi ng hi s next move, wi t h so

comi c an expr essi on t hat I bur st i nt o a r oar of l aught er ,

i n whi ch t he r est j oi ned out of cour t esy. Thi s was t oo

much f or hi m, as r i di cul e pr oves f or so many t wo- l egged

cal ves, so he t ossed hi s head i n t he ai r , gave a f l i r t wi t h

hi s heel s, and t r ot t ed of f af t er hi s mot her , a sadder , and

l et us hope, wi ser bul l - cal f ; i n any case, a r i nged one, and

bound i n f ut ur e t o get hi s own l i vi ng.

On my r i de home my mi nd was much occupi ed by t hat

238 Vacat i on Rambl es

cowboy, who r ode al ong by me — t el l i ng how he had been

r eadi ng Gul l i ver ' s Tr avel s agai n ( amongst ot her t hi ngs) ,

f ound i t wasn' t a mer e boy' s book, and want ed t o get a

Li f e of Swi f t — i n hi s bat t er ed ol d out f i t , f or whi ch no Jew

i n Rag- Fai r woul d gi ve hi m f i ve shi l l i ngs. The l ast t i me

I had seen hi m, t wo year s ago, he had j ust l ef t Hai l ebur y,

a bi t of a dandy, wi t h ver y t i ght cl ot hes, and so st i f f a

whi t e col l ar on, t hat on hi s ar r i val he had been ni cknamed

" t he Par son. "

At home he mi ght by t hi s t i me be j ust t hr ough r espon-

Page 141 of 259

si ons by t he hel p of cr i bs and manual s, havi ng cont r act ed

i n t he pr ocess a r oot ed di st ast e f or cl assi cal l i t er at ur e.

Possi bl y he mi ght have pul l ed i n hi s col l ege boat , and won

a pl at ed cup at l awn t enni s, and al l t hi s at t he cost of , say,

250 a y ear . As i t i s , bes i des c os t i ng not hi ng, he c an

cook a s par e- r i b of por k t o a t ur n on a f or k ed s t i c k , hol d

a bul l - c al f by t he t ai l , and i s v ol unt ar i l y wr es t l i ng ( not

wi t hout c er t ai n gl i mmer i ngs of l i ght ) wi t h Sar t or Bes ar t us .

Whi c h c ar eer f or c hoi c e 1 How s ay y ou, Mr . Edi t or 1

Cr os s i ng t he At l ant i c

4t h Sept ember 1885.

" A mug- wump ! " I s houl d l i k e t o as k y ou, s i r — not

as Edi t or , not ev en as Engl i s h gent l eman, but s i mpl y as

ver t ebr at e ani mal

— what y ou woul d do i f a s t r anger wer e

al l of a s udden t o c al l y our i nt i mat e f r i ends " mug- wumps , "

not obs c ur el y hi nt i ng t hat y ou y our s el f l abour ed under

what ev er i mput at i on t hat t er m may c onv ey ? I don' t

know what t he ef f ec t mi ght hav e been i n my own c as e,

but t hat t he s t or y of O' Connel l , as a boy , s hut t i ng up t he

vol ubl e ol d Dubl i n appl ewoman by c al l i ng her a " par al l el -

opi ped, " r us hed i nt o my head, and s et me of f l aughi ng. I

hav en' t been abl e t o l ear n mor e of t he et y mol ogy of t he

wor d t han t hat i t i s s ai d ov er her e t o hav e been f i r s t

us ed i n a s er mon ( ?) by Mr . War d Beec her , and now

denot es " bol t er s " or " s c r at c her s , " as t hey wer e c al l ed

Vac at i on Rambl es 239

l as t aut umn, or i n ot her wor ds , t he I ndependent s , who

br ok e away f r om t he par t y mac hi ne of Republ i c ani s m and

car r i ed Cl ev el and. Mor e power t o t he " mug- wump' s "

el bow, s ay I ; and I onl y wi s h we may c at c h t he " mug-

wumps , " " mug- wumpi s m, " or what ev er t he name f or t he

di s eas e may be, i n Engl and bef or e l ong. One of t he

gr oups on t he dec k of t he l i ner , amongs t whom I f i r s t

hear d t he phr as e, was a good s pec i men of t he mac hi ne-

pol i t i c i an, a democ r at of t he Tammany Hal l t y pe. " You

bet " I s t uc k t o hi m t i l l I got at hi s c andi d ac c ount of t he

campai gn of l as t aut umn, mos t i nt er es t i ng t o me, but I

f ear not s o t o t he gener al Engl i s h r eader , s o I wi l l onl y

gi v e y ou hi s c onc l udi ng s ent enc e :

— " Wel l , " wi t h a l ong

suc k at t he bi g c i gar he was hal f - eat i ng, hal f - s mok i ng, " I

t el l y ou i t was about t he t hi nnes t i c e y ou ev er s aw bef or e

we wer e ov er ,

— but , / got t o l and ! " Fr om what I hear d

on boar d and s i nc e, I bel i ev e t he Pr es i dent i s doi ng

spl endi dl y ; wi t nes s hi s per empt or y or der f or t he gr eat

r anc he- men t o c l ear out of t he Res er v es whi c h t hey had

l eas ed f r om t he I ndi ans , and f enc ed t o t he ex t ent of s ome

mi l l i ons of ac r es ; t he r i ght eous nes s of whi c h pr es i dent i al

ac t i on i s pr ov ed ( wer e pr oof needed) by t he t hr eat ened

r es i s t anc e of Gener al B. But l er , one of t he l ar ges t l es s ees .

I c an s ee t oo c l ear l y l oomi ng up a det er mi ned oppos i t i on

t o t he Pr es i dent ' s Ci v i l Ser v i c e r ef or m f r om pol i t i c i ans of

bot h par t i es , mai nl y on t he gr ound t hat he i s " es t abl i s h-

i ng a c l as s " i n t hes e U. S.

— a pol i c y whi c h " t he Fat her s "

abhor r ed and guar ded agai ns t , and whi c h t hei r onl y

l egi t i mat e hei r s , t he mac hi ne pol i t i c i ans , wi l l f i ght t o t he

deat h. You may gauge t he wor t h of t hi s oppos i t i on by

Page 142 of 259

cont r as t i ng t hei r t wo pr i nc i pal ar gument s — ( 1) Ni ne-

t ent hs of t he wor k of t he Depar t ment s ( Pos t Of f i c e,

Cus t oms , et c . ) c an be l ear nt j us t as wel l i n t hr ee mont hs

as i n t en y ear s ; and ( 2) t he ot her t ent h, r equi r i ng s k i l l ed

and ex per i enc ed of f i c er s , has nev er been i nt er f er ed wi t h

by ei t her s i de. But , i f ar gument t wo i s s ound, c adi t

quws t i o, as t her e i s ex hy pot hes i al r eady a per manent c l as s

of c i v i l s er v ant s , I c onc l ude t hat wer e I an Amer i c an I

240 Vac at i on Rambl es

woul d ac c ept " mug- wump " as a t i t l e of honour i ns t ead of

r es ent i ng i t , and hel p t o get up a " Mug- wump" c l ub i n

ev er y gr eat c i t y .

We had a s pl endi d c r os s i ng, dec k c r owded al l t he way ,

and t he c ompany gl or i ous l y c os mopol i t an and c ommuni -

cat i v e dur i ng t he s hor t i nt er v al s bet ween t he or t hodox

f our f ul l meal s a day . Ther e i s s ur el y no pl ac e i n t he

wor l d wher e t hat uni v er s al i ns t i nc t , t he des i r e t o get

behi nd t he s c enes of one' s nei ghbour s ' l i v es , i s s o eas i l y

and abundant l y gr at i f i ed. Her e i s one of my r at her odd

di s c ov er i es . On r eac hi ng t he dec k , af t er my bat h on t he

f i r s t mor ni ng, f or t he t r amp bef or e br eak f as t , I was j oi ned

by a f i ne s pec i men of an ol d Yor k s hi r eman. I t s eems we

had met y ear s ago, at s ome pol i t i c al or s oc i al gat her i ng,

and as he l ook ed i n s uper b heal t h and f i t t o f i ght f or hi s

l i f e, I c ongr at ul at ed. Yes , he s ai d, i t was al l owi ng t o

hi s hav i ng di s c ov er ed how t o pas s hi s hol i day . He us ed

t o go t o s ome nor t her n s eas i de pl ac e, one as bad as t he

ot her , f or " whenev er t he wi nd bl ew on s hor e y ou mi ght

as wel l be l i v i ng i n a s ewer . " So he s av ed enough one

year t o buy a r et ur n- t i c k et on a Cunar d l i ner , c al c ul at i ng

t hat what ev er way t he wi nd bl ew he mus t be get t i ng s ea-

ai r al l t he t i me. He has done i t ev er y y ear s i nc e, hav i ng

f ound t hat bes i des s ea- ai r he get s bet t er f ood and c ompany

t han he c oul d ev er c ommand at home. My nex t " f i nd "

was a pl eas ant s ol di er l y - l ook i ng man Av ho c al l ed t o me

f r om t he upper dec k t o c ome up and s ee a s wor d- f i s h

chas i ng a whal e. Al as ! I ar r i v ed t oo l at e. The unc i v i l

br ut es had bot h di s appear ed by t he t i me I got up ; but I

was muc h c ons ol ed by t he t al k whi c h ens ued wi t h my

new ac quai nt anc e. He was a Li eut enant of Mar i nes i n

t he Admi r al ' s f l ag- s hi p of f Pal er mo i n Ki ng Bomba' s l as t

day s , and was s ent as hor e t o ar r es t and br i ng on boar d

al l s ai l or s f ound wi t h t he Gar i bal di ni . He s eems t o hav e

f ound i t nec es s ar y t o be pr es ent hi ms el f at t he bat t l e of

Met az z o ( I t hi nk t hat was t he name) and at t he s t or mi ng

of t he t own af t er war ds , i n whi c h t he Gar i bal di ni s uf f er ed

sev er el y . The dead wer e al l l ai d out bef or e t he gat e

Vac at i on Rambl es 241

af t er t he t own was t ak en, and he c ount ed no l es s t han

sev ent y bl uej ac k et s amongs t t hem ! They us ed t o dr op

ov er t he s i des of t he s hi ps and s wi m as hor e, or s muggl e

t hems el v es i nt o t he bum- boat s whi c h c ame of f t o t he

f l eet wi t h pr ov i s i ons . No wonder t hat Av e hav e been

popul ar i n I t al y ev er s i nc e.

Page 143 of 259

Then, at t r ac t ed by a c r owd on t he f or e par t of t he

dec k , r oped of f t o di v i de s t eer age f r om s al oon pas s enger s ,

I bec ame one of a mot l ey gr oup as s i s t i ng at a s or t of

mor al " f r ee- and- eas y , " got up f or t he 300 s t eer age f ol k

by t wo ec c l es i as t i c s , whom I t ook at f i r s t f or Romi s h

pr i es t s f r om t hei r c os t ume. I f ound I was mi s t ak en, and

t hat t hey wer e t he Pr i nc i pal and a Br ot her of " t he

Fr at er ni t y of t he I r on Cr os s , " an or der of t he Amer i c an

Epi s c opal Chur c h, whi c h, i t s eems , has t ak en r oot i n

sev er al of t he l ar ge c i t i es . The Br et hr en ar e v owed t o

" pov er t y , pur i t y , and t emper anc e" ( or obedi enc e, I am

not s ur e whi c h) ; and t hes e t wo wer e c r os s i ng i n t he

st eer age t o c omf or t and hel p t he poor f ol k t her e — no

pl eas ant t as k , ev en i n s o ai r y a s hi p and s uc h f i ne weat her .

One c an i magi ne what power t hi s k i nd of f el l ows hi p mus t

gi v e t he I r on Cr os s Br et hr en wi t h t hei r r at her s ad f el l ow-

pas s enger s , t o whom t hey c oul d s ay — one of t hem, i ndeed,

di d s ay i t

— " We ar e j us t as poor as t he poor es t of y ou,

f or we own no pr oper t y of any k i nd, and nev er c an own

any t i l l our deat hs . " Thi s Br ot her ( a s t r appi ng y oung

f el l ow of t went y - f i v e, who I f ound had been an at hl et e

at Ox f or d) wax ed el oquent t o t hem on hi s ex per i enc es i n

Phi l adel phi a, es pec i al l y on t he wor k i ng- men Br et hr en

t her e. One of t hes e, a bi g, r ough c hap, wi t h a badl y

br ok en nos e, he had r at her l ook ed as k anc e at , f i r s t , t i l l he

f ound t hat t he br ok en nos e had been ear ned i n a r ough-

and- t umbl e f i ght wi t h a f el l ow who was i l l - us i ng a woman.

Now t hey wer e t he c l os es t f r i ends , and he l ook ed on t he

br ok en nos e as mor e honour abl e t han t he Vi c t or i a Cr os s ,

and hoped none of t he men t her e woul d f ai l t o go i n f or

t hat dec or at i on i f t hey ev er got t he s ame c hanc e.

I n mel anc hol y c ont r as t t o t he I r on Cr os s Br et hr en

1;

242 Vac at i on Rambl es

wer e t wo ot her di l i gent wor k er s i n qui t e anot her k i nd of

bus i nes s . They haunt ed t he s mok i ng- r oom f r om br eak f as t

t i l l " l i ght s out , " of f i c i ous t o hel p t o ar r ange t he dai l y

sweeps t ak es on t he s hi p' s r un ; gl oat i ng ov er , and pi l i ng

car es s i ngl y as t hey r at t l ed down on t he t abl e, t he dol l ar s

and hal f - c r owns ; al way s on t he wat c h and r eady t o t ak e

a hand at c ar ds , j us t t o ac c ommodat e gent s wi t h whom

t i me hung heav i l y . Bagmen, t hey wer e s ai d t o be ; but I

doubt i f t hey t r av el f or any i ndus t r y ex c ept pl uc k i ng

pi geons on t hei r own ac c ount

— unmi s t ak abl e J ews of a

l ow t j r pe, who nev er l ook ed any man i n t he f ac e :

—

I n t hei r ey es t hat s t eal t hy gl eam,

Was not l ear ned of s k y or s t r eam,

But i t has t he har d, c ol d gl i nt

Of new dol l ar s f r om t he mi nt .

Thei r i ndus t r y was pur s ued c aut i ous l y , as t he f i ne ol d

capt ai n i s k nown t o hol d s t r ong v i ews about gambl i ng,

and t her e was l es s on t hi s s hi p t han any ot her I hav e

cr os s ed on. No bac c ar at

- t abl e goi ng al l day , wi t h

ex c i t ed y oungs t er s punt i ng t hei r s i l v er ( gol d, t oo, now

and t hen) ov er t he s houl der s of t he pl ay er s ,

— onl y a

Page 144 of 259

qui et hand at euc hr e or pok er at a c or ner t abl e, i n t he

af t er noon and af t er di nner ; but ev en wi t h s uc h s t r ai t ened

oppor t uni t i es , y oungs t er s may be pl uc k ed t o a f ai r l y

sat i s f ac t or y f i gur e. Fr om

10 t o

20 was of t en at s t ak e

on one deal at pok er , and, I was t ol d, not s el dom muc h

hi gher s ums . I s aw my s el f one mer e boy i nv ei gl ed i nt o

bl i nd- hook ey f or a mi nut e or t wo whi l e t he pok er par t y

was gat her i ng. He won t he f i r s t c ut ; and t wo mi nut es

l at er I s aw " I s c ar i ot I ngot s , Es q. , t hat hi ghl y r es pec t abl e

man, " l ook i ng abs t r ac t edl y ac r os s t he r oom, and dr eami l y

gat her i ng up a l ar ge handf ul of s i l v er whi c h t he boy

r at t l ed down as he f l ung of f t o t ak e hi s s eat at t he pok er -

t abl e ; and s o on, and s o on.

I t oc c ur s t o one t o as k , not wi t hout s ome i ndi gnat i on,

why t hi s s or t of t hi ng i s al l owed on t hes e At l ant i c

st eamer s . My own obs er v at i on c onf i r ms t he gener al

Vac at i on Rambl es 243

bel i ef t hat pr of es s i onal s c r os s on near l y ev er y boat ; and,

on ev er y boat , t her e ar e y oungs t er s f r es h f r om s c hool or

col l ege, out of l eadi ng- s t r i ngs f or t he f i r s t t i me, and wi t h

cons i der abl e s ums i n t hei r poc k et s . I t i s a bad s c andal ,

and mi ght be s t opped wi t h t he gr eat es t eas e. Pr ohi bi t

al l c ar ds , ex c ept whi s t f or s mal l poi nt s i n t he s mok i ng-

r oom ; and l et i t be t he pur s er ' s or s ome ot her of f i c er ' s

dut y t o s ee t he r ul e enf or c ed. As t hi ngs s t and, I do not

know of a mor e danger ous pl ac e f or y oungs t er s — Amer i c an

or Engl i s h — t han an At l ant i c s t eamer .

One nev er get s pas t Sandy Hook , I t hi nk , wi t hout

some new s ens at i on. Thi s t i me, f or me, i t was t he har bour

buoy s , eac h of whi c h c ar r i ed a br i l l i ant el ec t r i c l amp.

They ar e l i ght ed f r om t he s hor e !

Not es f r om t he Wes t

Ci nc i nnat i , 2i t h Sept ember 1886.

I nev er c ome t o t hi s c ount r y wi t hout s t umbl i ng ov er

some s t ar t l i ng di f f er enc es bet ween our k i n her e and

our s el v es , whi c h i t puz z l es me t o ac c ount f or . Tak e t hi s

l as t . Some da} ~s ago, I met a y oung Engl i s hman f r om a

Wes t er n r anc he. He had r un down s ome s i x hundr ed

mi l es , f r om Kans as Ci t y , i nt o whi c h he had br ought a

" bunc h " of s t eer s f r om t he r anc he. As he woul d not be

want ed agai n f or a f or t ni ght , he had t ak en t he oppor t uni t y

of l ook i ng i n on hi s f r i ends down Sout h. I n our t al k

t he ques t i on of r ai l way f ar es t ur ned up. " Oh, y es , " he

sai d, " t he f ar e i s $25; but I onl y pai d $16. " " How

i s t hat ?" " Why , I j us t went t o t he ' t i c k et - s c al per s ' , '

r i ght oppos i t e t he r ai l way depot

— her e i s t hei r c ar d

( handi ng i t t o me) ; and, y ou s ee, my t i c k et i s t o

Chat anooga ; s o I mi ght go on f or anot her hundr ed and

f i f t y mi l es i f I want ed t o. " Ther e was t he bus i nes s c ar d,

" Mos s Br ot her s , t i c k et - br ok er s , oppos i t e c ent r al depot ,

Kans as Ci t y , member s of t he Ti c k et Br ok er s ' Uni on. "

I t went on t o s ay t hat ev er y at t ent i on i s pai d t o t r av el l er s .

Page 145 of 259

244 Vac at i on Rambl es

i nqui r i es made, and i nf or mat i on gi v en, by t hes e ent er -

pr i s i ng Hebr ews ; and on t he bac k , a l i s t of t he t owns t o

whi c h t hey c oul d i s s ue t i c k et s , i nc l udi ng near l y ev er y

i mpor t ant c ent r e i n t he Nor t her n and Wes t er n St at es .

Si nc e t hen I hav e made i nqui r i es at s ev er al t owns , and

f i nd t hat t he " s c al per " i s an i ns t i t ut i on i n ev er y one of

t hem ; and, apar t f r om t he s av i ng of money , i s muc h i n

f av our wi t h t he t r av el l i ng publ i c , on ac c ount of hi s c i v i l i t y

and i nt el l i genc e. The or di nar y r ai l way c l er k i s a r emar k abl y

shor t - t emper ed and i l l - i nf or med per s on, out of whom y ou c an

wi t h di f f i c ul t y ex t r ac t t he mos t t r i f l i ng pi ec e of i nf or mat i on,

ev en as t o hi s own l i ne ; whi l e t he des pi s ed " s c al per "

ac r os s t he r oad ( gener al l y a J ew) wi l l t ak e any amount of

t r oubl e t o f i nd out how y ou c an " mak e c onnec t i ons , "

whi l e f ur ni s hi ng y ou wi t h a t i c k et , whi c h he guar ant ees ,

at a t hi r d l es s , on t he av er age, t han hi s l egi t i mat e but

mor os e r i v al i n " t he depot . " But t he s t r anges t t hi ng of

al l i s , t hat ev en t he r ai l way di r ec t or s s eem t o t hi nk i t al l

r i ght ; or , at any r at e, t hat i t i s not wor t h t hei r whi l e t o

t r y t o s t op t hi s t r af f i c . One f r i end, a f i r s t - r at e bus i nes s

man, ac t ual l y s ai d t hat he s houl d hav e no s c r upl e what -

ev er i n goi ng t o t he " s c al per s " when of f hi s own s y s t em,

ov er whi c h, of c our s e, he i s " dead- headed. " I hear d

sev er al ex pl anat i ons of t he phenomenon, t he onl y pl aus i bl e

one bei ng t hat i t i s i mpos s i bl e t o c ont r ol t he enor mous

i s s ues of c heap ex c ur s i on t i c k et s whi c h ar e made by al l t he

mai n l i nes . But s ur el y , t hen, t he ques t i on oc c ur s , " Why

i mpos s i bl e 1 " At any r at e, t he av er age Br i t on i s i nc l i ned

t o t hi nk t hat i f s uc h es t abl i s hment s appear ed oppos i t e t he

Eus t on Squar e or Wat er l oo t er mi ni , t hey woul d s oon hear

somet hi ng f r om Mr . Moon and Mr . Bal ph Dut t on not t o

t hei r adv ant age.

I gl eaned ot her i t ems of i nf or mat i on f r om my y oung

f r i end f r om Kans as whi c h may be us ef ul t o s ome of y our

r eader s , now t hat t her e i s s c ar c el y a f ami l y i n Engl and ( s o

i t s eems t o me, at l eas t ) whi c h i s not s endi ng out one or

mor e of i t s y ounger member s t o t r y t hei r f or t unes i n t he

Far Wes t . Thi s , f or i ns t anc e, s eems wor t h bear i ng i n

Vac at i on Rambl es 245

mi nd : When a y oung f el l ow c omes out f r om home, he

shoul dn' t go and hi r e hi ms el f out at onc e t o a f ar mer . I f

he does , he' l l f i nd t hey ' l l mak e t he wi nt er j obs f or an

Engl i s hman pr et t y t ough. He' l l get al l t he har des t wor k

l ai d out f or hi m, and mi ght y poor pay at t he end. Let

hi m go and boar d wi t h a f ar mer . Any one wi l l be gl ad

t o t ak e hi m f or a f ew dol l ar s . Then he c an l ear n al l he

want s , and t hey ' l l be gl ad of hi s hel p, bec aus e t hey ' l l s ee

i t ' s a pi c ni c . I f y ou l i k e i t , y ou c an buy and s et t l e down.

I f not , y ou c an j us t pul l out , and go on s omewher e el s e.

The admi ni s t r at i on of j us t i c e on t he pl ai ns i s s t i l l i n a

pr i mi t i v e c ondi t i on. The di f f i c ul t y of get t i ng a j ur y of

f ar mer s t oget her mak es a gaol del i v er y a t r oubl es ome

mat t er . Anot her y oungs t er f r om Dak ot a i l l us t r at ed t hi s

Page 146 of 259

f r om hi s sect i on. Ther e was a t ur bul ent member of t he

communi t y who, af t er commi t t i ng ot her mi nor of f ences, at

l ast got l odged i n t he shant y whi ch does of f i ce f or a gaol , on

t he ser i ous char ge of a mur der ous at t ack on a gi r l who

r ef used any l onger t o r ecei ve hi s at t ent i ons, and on her

f at her when he came t o t he r escue. He had l ai n i n gaol

f or some weeks, wai t i ng f or a j udge and j ur y, when 4t h

Jul y came r ound. The Sher i f f - Const abl e, wi t h al l t he r est

of t he nei ghbour s, was bound f or t he near est r ai l way -

st at i on, some t en mi l es of f , wher e t he anni ver sar y of " t he

gl or i ous Four t h " was t o be commemor at ed, wi t h t r ot t i ng

mar ches and ot her di ver si ons. He had one ot her pr i soner

i n char ge, and so, af t er wei ghi ng t he mat t er wel l , and

t aki ng t he l engt h of t hei r i ncar cer at i on i nt o account , came

t o t he i ngeni ous concl usi on t o l et t hem out f or t he day,

each goi ng bai l f or t he r et ur n of t he ot her on t he f ol l owi ng

day. On t he mor r ow, however , i t was f ound t hat t he

chi ef cul pr i t had not t ur ned up, and t he f at her s of t he

l i t t l e communi t y gat her ed i n i ndi gnant counci l t o consi der

what was t o be done. Af t er some debat e t he Sher i l l -

Const abl e gave i t as hi s opi ni on t hat , on t he whol e,

Dogber r y' s advi ce was sound, and t hey shoul d l et hi m go,

and t hank God t hey wer e r i d of a knave, " t he count r y

havi ng spent t oo much al r eady over t he dar ned cuss. " To

o

246 Vacat i on Rambl es

t hi s t he pat r es conscr i pt i agr eed, and went home t o t hei r

f ar ms. Even st r anger i s anot her wel l - aut hent i cat ed st or y

f r om one of t he most act i ve and i mpor t ant of t he new

ci t i es i n t he Nor t h- West . Amongst t he f i r st set t l er s t her e

was one who had dabbl ed i n r eal est at e, and gr own wi t h

t he gr owt h of t he ci t y, unt i l he had become " one of our

pr i nci pal ci t i zens. " No one seemed t o know whet her he

was a l awyer by pr of essi on, and he never conduct ed a case

i n Cour t . But one t hi ng was qui t e cl ear , t hat he was i nt i mat e

wi t h al l t he j udges, had t he ent r ee t o t hei r pr i vat e r ooms, and,

especi al l y i n t he case of t he Judges of t he Supr eme Cour t ,

scar cel y ever f ai l ed t o avai l hi msel f of t hi s pr i vi l ege when

t he Cour t s wer e si t t i ng. He had a capi t al cook and good

hor ses, whi ch wer e al ways f r eel y at t he ser vi ce of t he

r epr esent at i ves of j ust i ce. Gr adual l y i t began t o be qui et l y

under st ood, no one qui t e knew how, amongst sui t or s, t hat

i t was possi bl e, and ver y desi r abl e, t o i nt er est t he

gent l eman i n quest i on i n t hei r cases. He was r ead) ' , i t

woul d seem, t o accept a r et ai ni ng- f ee. Hi s char ge was

f i xed at a ver y moder at e per cent age on t he val ue of t he

pr oper t y i n di sput e, whi ch nobody need pay unl ess t hey

t hought i t wor t h whi l e. Mor eover , t he syst em was

one of " No cur e, no pay. " He gave ever y one an ac -

knowl edgment i n wr i t i ng of t he amount pai d i n t hei r

r espect i ve cases, wi t h an under t aki ng t o r et ur n t he f ul l

sum i n t he event of t hei r pr ovi ng unsuccessf ul . I t t her e-

f or e nat ur al l y appear ed t o t he aver age West er n sui t or

about as pr of i t abl e an i nvest ment as he coul d make.

St r ange t o say, t hi s queer pr act i ce seems t o have gone on

f or year s, and no shadow of suspi ci on ever f el l on t hi s

" pr i nci pal ci t i zen, " what ever mi ght have been t he case as

Page 147 of 259

t o hi s f r i ends t he j udges. The st r ong i ndi vi dual i t y and

secr et i veness whi ch mar ks t he West er n char act er may

pr obabl y account f or t he f act t hat dur i ng hi s l i f e no one

woul d seem t o have t aken any publ i c not i ce of t hi s

pecul i ar i ndust r y. I f a sui t or was successf ul , he was

cont ent ; i f not , he got back hi s money, and i t was nobody' s

af f ai r but hi s own. Wel l , t he good man di ed, and was

Vacat i on Rambl es 247

bur i ed, and hi s execut or s, i n admi ni st er i ng hi s est at e, wer e

ast oni shed t o f i nd bundl es of r ecei pt s f r om sui t or s of al l

cl asses and degr ees, acknowl edgi ng t he r epayment t o t hem

of sums var yi ng i n amount f r om $5 and upwar ds " i n t he

case of Br own v. Jones, " " i n t he mat t er of Uni t ed St at es

v. Robi nson, " " ex par t e Whi t e, " et c. Thi s l ed t o f ur t her

i nqui r y, and t he f act s came gr adual l y t o l i ght . The

sagaci ous t est at or had, i n f act , t aken hi s per cent age f r om

bot h si des i n al most ever y case of any i mpor t ance whi ch

had been hear d i n t he Cour t s f or year s. He had never

ment i oned sui t or sui t or t o any of t he j udges, hi s vi si t s t o

t hem bei ng si mpl y f or t he pur pose of aski ng t hem t o di nner ,

of f er i ng t hem a dr i ve, or a bed i f t hey wer e on ci r cui t

away f r om home, or i nt er changi ng gossi p as t o st ocks,

r ai l ways, or publ i c af f ai r s. And so f or year s f i ve honest

men had been pr esi di ng i n t he di f f er ent Cour t s, ent i r el y

i nnocent of t he f act t hat al most ever y sui t or was l ooki ng

upon each of t hem as a per son who had r ecei ved val uabl e

consi der at i on f or deci di ng i n hi s f avour . I own t hat my

exper i ence, t hough, of cour se, nar r ow, i s deci dedl y f avour -

abl e as t o t he abi l i t y and upr i ght ness of t he j udges i n out -

of - t he- way di st r i ct s ; so t hat not hi ng but what I coul d

not but r egar d as qui t e uni mpeachabl e evi dence woul d

have sat i sf i ed me t hat a whol e communi t y of l i t i gant s

shoul d have gone on payi ng bl ack- mai l i n t hi s egr egi ousl y

st upi d manner .

I was consi der abl y ast oni shed, and a l i t t l e t r oubl ed, t o

f i nd so many of my f r i ends among Nor t her n Republ i cans

— men who had gone t hr ough and bor ne t he bur den of

t he War of Secessi on — not , i ndeed, sympat hi si ng wi t h t he

I r i sh, whom t hey di sl i ke and di st r ust mor e t han we do,

but sayi ng : " Oh, you had bet t er l et t hem have t hei r own

way. Look at our exper i ence of t went y 3- ear s af t er t he

war . Unt i l we l et t he Sout her n St at es have t hei r own

way, and wi t hdr ew t he t r oops, and t hr ew over t he car pet -

bagger s, we had no peace ; and now t hey ar e j ust as qui et

as New Engl and. " To whi ch, of cour se, I made t he

obvi ous r epl y : " Let t he secedi ng St at es have t hei r own

248 Vacat i on Rambl es

way, di d you 1 Why, I had al ways under st ood t hat t hey

went out because you el ect ed a f r ee- soi l Pr esi dent , pl edged

t o oppose any f ur t her ext ensi on of t hei r pecul i ar i nst i t u-

t i on, and t hat at t he end of t he war t hat i nst i t ut i on had

not onl y been conf i ned wi t hi n i t s ol d l i mi t s, but had

absol ut el y di sappear ed. The par al l el woul d have hel d i f

you had sai d t o Mr . Jef f er son Davi s and hi s backer s i n t he

spr i ng of 1861, ' Do what you pl ease as t o your negr oes;

Page 148 of 259

t ake t hem wher e you wi l l ; i t i s a pur el y domest i c mat t er

f or you t o set t l e i n your own way. ' I nst ead of t hi s, you

sai d, ' You shal l not t ake your sl aves wher e you pl ease,

and you shal l not go out of t he Uni on. ' I n t he same way,

we have t o say now t o t he I r i sh, ' You shal l not do what

you pl ease wi t h t he owner s of pr oper t y i n I r el and, and you

shal l not go out of t he Uni on. ' "

You wi l l be gl ad t o hear t hat , wher ever I went , t her e

seemed t o be t he expect at i on of a r evi val of t r ade i n t he

near f ut ur e. I can see no gr ound mysel f f or t he ex -

pect at i on, so l ong as al l i ndust r y r emai ns i n i t s pr esent

compet i t i ve phase, and t he power of pr oduct i on goes on

i ncr easi ng i nst ead of di mi ni shi ng. Why shoul d men not

desi r e as eager l y t o t ake each ot her ' s t r ade t hi s next year

as t hey di d l ast year ? But t he knowi ng peopl e t hi nk

ot her wi se, and I suppose t hat i s good f or somet hi ng.

West war d Ho !

2nd Apr i l 1887.

I t must be near l y t hi r t y year s si nce I f i r st wr ot e t o

you over t hi s si gnat ur e, but never bef or e except i n

l ong vacat i ons, and f r om out l andi sh par t s. Why not

keep t o a good r ul e 1 you may ask, at t hi s cr owded t i me

of year . Wel l , t he f act i s I r eal l y want t o say somet hi ng

as t o t hi s " West war d Ho ! " gadf l y, whi ch seems t o have

bi t t en young Engl and wi t h a vengeance i n t hese l ast

mont hs. I am st ar t l ed, not t o say al ar med, at t he number

of l et t er s I get f r om t he par ent s and guar di ans — gener al l y

s

Vacat i on Rambl es 249

pr of essi onal men — of youngst er s eager l y bent on cat t l e-

r anches, hor se - r anches, or ange- gr oves i n Fl or i da, vi ne-

yar ds, peach and st r awber r y- r ai si ng, and I know not what

ot her gol den dr eams of weal t h qui ckl y acqui r ed i n t he

open ai r , gener al l y w r i t h pl ent y of wi l d spor t t hr own i n.

I suppose t hey wr i t e f r om some f ancy t hat I know a

good deal about such mat t er s. That i s not so ; but I

do know a ver y l i t t l e about t hem, and may possi bl y do

some good by publ i shi ng t hat l i t t l e j ust now i n your

col umns.

Fi r st , t hen, as t o cat t l e and hor se- r ai si ng on r anches.

Thi s i s pr act i cal l y a cl osed busi ness on any but a smal l

scal e, and as par t of f ar m wor k. Al l t he best r anche-

gr ounds ar e i n t he hands of l ar ge and r i ch compani es, or

mi l l i onai r es, wi t h whom no new- comer can compet e. I t

wi l l , no doubt , be a val uabl e exper i ence f or any young

man t o wor k f or a year or t wo on a bi g r anche as a cow-

boy ; but he must be t hor oughl y abl e t o t r ust hi s t emper ,

and t o r ough i t i n many ways, or he shoul d not t r y i t .

At t he end, i f pr udent , he wi l l onl y have been abl e t o

save a f ew hundr ed dol l ar s. But t hi s i s not t he ki nd of

Page 149 of 259

t hi ng, so f ar as I see, t hat our youngst er s at al l expect or

want . Or ange- gr oves ar e excel l ent and pr of i t abl e t hi ngs,

no doubt , and t her e ar e par t s i n Fl or i da and el sewher e

wher e t her e i s st i l l pl ent y of l and f i t f or t hi s pur pose,

t hough t he choi ce spot s ar e pr obabl y occupi ed. But an

or ange- gr ove wi l l not gi ve any r et ur n t i l l t he si xt h year ,

caut i ous peopl e say t he sevent h.

Vi neyar ds may, wi t h good l uck, be gi vi ng some r et ur n

i n t he t hi r d or f our t h year ; but t he amount of har d wor k

whi ch must be put i nt o t he soi l i n br eaki ng up, cl ear i ng

out st umps, and pl oughi ng, even i f t her e i s no t i mber t o

f el l , i s ver y ser i ous ; and t he same may be sai d of peach-

or char ds and ear l y f r ui t and veget abl e - r ear i ng. Mor e-

over , t he choi ce pl aces f or such i ndust r y, such as Look -

out Mount ai n, ar e f or t he most par t occupi ed. I n a wor d,

t hough i t i s qui t e possi bl e t o do wel l i n ot her i ndust r i es,

and i n or di nar y f ar mi ng, not hi ng beyond a decent l i vi ng

250 Vacat i on Rambl es

can be ear ned, wi t hout at any r at e as f r ee an expendi t ur e

of br ai n and muscl e as hi gh f ar mi ng r equi r es at home.

On t he ot her hand, spor t , except f or r i ch r anche- men who

can command waggons, hor ses, and men, and t r avel l ong

di st ances f or i t , i s not t o be had gener al l y, and apt t o

di sappoi nt wher e i t can be had.

So much f or t he wor ki ng si de of t he pr obl em. The

pl ayi ng si de — out si de whi sky- shops, whi ch I wi l l assume

t he young Engl i shman means t o keep cl ear of — ought al so

t o be l ooked f ai r l y i n t he f ace bef or e t he exper i ment i s

t r i ed. Per haps t he most di r ect way t o br i ng i t home t o

i nqui r er s wi l l be t o quot e f r om t he l et t er of a young

Engl i sh publ i c- school boy who has l at el y f i ni shed hi s f i r st

year as a cowboy on t he cat t l e- r anche of one of t he bi g

compani es : —

Fr i day ni ght we had qui t e a t i me. We went t o an exhi bi t i on of

t he home t al ent of , and r eal l y of al l shows t hi s was t he wor st I

ever saw. One man, t he t own bar ber , and our gr eat est " soci et y

man, " pl ayed a ni gger , and pl ayed i t so wel l t hat one coul d not hel p

f ancyi ng he has at one t i me been a " pr of esh. " The r est wer e so

dul l and such st i cks t hat i t made hi m shi ne mor e t han ever . Af t er

t he home t al ent , t her e was a " soci al hop, " at whi ch Jer r y and I

shone as bei ng t he " bor ed young men. " You can, of cour se, see why

I was bor ed ; and Jer r y, he i s f r om Ohi o, and of cour se cannot

compet e wi t h Ohi o. However , as Jer r y was somewhat of a gr eat

man, t he quadr i l l es bei ng al l cal l ed by hi m — i . e. he st ood on t he

st age and shout ed, " bal ance al l , " " swi ng your par t ner s, " " l ady' s

chai n, " at t he r i ght t i me — we had t o st ay, and mor e or l ess t o dance.

Jer r y t ook gr eat pai ns t o f i nd me par t ner s wor t hy of a man who had

danced i n a dr ess- coat . He di d not succeed but once, when he i nt r o-

duced me t o a ver y l i vel y l i t t l e school - l ady, " mar m, " I shoul d say ;

t he r est wer e ver y wooden i n movement and conver sat i on. The

school - mar m amused me ver y much. She had not l ong r et ur ned

f r om t he Uni ver si t y, wher e al l t he young l adi es, t hough t hey

Page 150 of 259

met t he ot her sex at school , wer e not al l owed t o speak t o t hem at

ot her t i mes. The gi r l s wer e al l owed t o gi ve dances, but she and

t hr ee or f our ot her s t hought t hat a ' ' hen- pi e " dance was t oo much

of a f r aud, so t hey cont r i ved a pl an by whi ch t hey coul d get t hr ee or

f our danci ng men i n wi t hout goi ng t o t he door . They f ast ened a

pul l ey on t o t he beam wher e t he bel l hung, and wi t h t he ai d of a

Vacat i on Rambl es 251

cl ot hes- basket and a r ope t hey spoi l ed t he " hen- pi e" wi t h t wo or

t hr ee young men. Thi s pl an wor ked wel l sever al t i mes, t i l l one

ni ght t hr ee or f our of t hem wer e exer t i ng t hemsel ves t o get a ver y

heavy hoy up, when i nst ead of a boy t hey per cei ved t he bear ded f ace

of t he head- mast er . I n hor r or t hey t ur ned l oose t he r ope and f l ed,

l eavi ng hi m t wel ve f eet f r om t he gr ound, hangi ng on by hi s f i nger s t o

t he wi ndow- si l l , f r om whi ch, as no one woul d r espond t o hi s cal l f or

hel p, he f i nal l y dr opped. The young l ady t ol d i t much bet t er t han I

have. Jer r y was ver y popul ar as a " cal l er . " I not i ced he under -

st ood hi s audi ence wel l , and whenever t hey got a f i gur e t hey di dn' t

know, he came i n wi t h " gr and chai n, " whi ch t hey al l knew and

per f or med ver y ni cel y ; so you woul d see a whol e set l ost i n t he

i nt r i cat e f eat of " vi si t i ng" ( say) and al l muddl ed up, when you

woul d hear t he gr and voi ce of Jer r y, " gr and chai n, " and al l t he

dancer s woul d smi l e and go t o i t , and Jer r y was cpi i t e t he boss. We

however l ost our r eput at i on as good young men, as t owar ds mi dni ght

we wer e over come wi t h a gr eat t hi r st ; so wi cked I , a har dened

si nner , per suaded t he soci al bar ber t o l et me have hal f - a- pi nt of

whi sky ; and J and I wer e caught i n t he bar ber ' s shop, eat i ng

t i nned oyst er s wi t h our pocket - kni ves, and bi scui t s, and i ndul gi ng i n

whi sky- and- wat er . We wer e caught by t hr ee young men who had " got

r el i gi on " l ast f al l , and who wer e, of cour se, hi ghl y shocked ; but I

t hi nk t hey woul d have over come al l t hei r scr upl es but f or t he st er n

mot her s i n t he backgr ound, and t hey not onl y envi ed us our whi sky -

and- wat er , but al so our mot her s. Hal f t he f i ght i n dr i nki ng, I t hi nk,

i s t o have been " r ai sed " t o l ook upon i t as an ever y - day l uxur y, and

not as a t hi ng t o be had as a gr eat t r eat on t he sl y. Wel l , good- bye !

I have wr i t t en a l ot of r ubbi sh, but beyond t hat am f at t er t han I have

ever been i n Amer i ca.

Thi s wi l l pr obabl y gi ve r eader s a pr et t y cl ear not i on of

t he soci al l i f e avai l abl e i n t he West . I t i s, as t hey wi l l

see at a gl ance, ut t er l y unl i ke anyt hi ng t hey have been

used t o. I f t hi s ki nd of soci al l i f e ( and t her e i s somet hi ng

t o be sai d f or i t ) i s what t hey want , i n t he i nt er l udes of

r eal l y har d manual l abour and r ough boar d and l odgi ng,

l et t hem st ar t by al l means, and t hey may do ver y wel l

out West . Ot her wi se t hey had bet t er l ook t he t hi ng

r ound t wi ce or t hr i ce bef or e st ar t i ng. I n any case, no

young man ought t o t ake mor e r eady money wi t h hi m

t han wi l l j ust keep hi m f r om st ar vi ng f or about a mont h.

252 Vacat i on Rambl es

I f he cannot make hi s hands keep hi m by t hat t i me, he

has no busi ness, and wi l l do no good, i n t he West .

Page 151 of 259

The Her mi t

Rugby, Tennessee, \ §t h Sept ember 1887.

I have al ways had a st r ong cur i osi t y about her mi t s —

r emember I pai d a shi l l i ng as a smal l boy, when I coul d i l l

af f or d i t , t o see one, somewher e up by Hampst ead, a cr uel

di sappoi nt ment — used t o make shy appr oaches t o l onel y

t ur npi ke keeper s bef or e t hey wer e abol i shed, wi t h no

success ; f i ndi ng t hem al ways, l i ke Johnson' s " hoar y sage, "

i ncl i ned t o cut sent i ment shor t wi t h, " Come, my l ad, and

dr i nk some beer , " I came t o t he concl usi on l ong si nce t hat

t he genui ne her mi t i s as ext i nct as t he dodo i n t he Br i t i sh

I sl es. I was al most exci t ed, t her ef or e, t he ot her mor ni ng,

t o get a not e on a di r t y scr ap of paper her e, aski ng f or t he

l oan of a book on geol ogy, f or , on i nqui r y, I f ound i t

came f r om " t he Her mi t . " He had suddenl y appear ed t o

t he man who dr i ves t he hack, and sent i t i n by hi m. No

one coul d t el l me anyt hi ng mor e except t hat t he wr i t er

. was " t he Her mi t , " and l i ved, no one knew how, i n a

shant y f our mi l es away i n t he f or est . I got t he book out

of t he l i br ar y, " l oaned " a pony, and i n due cour se f ound

mysel f out si de a di l api dat ed snake- f ence, sur r oundi ng some

t hr ee acr es of hal f - cl ear ed f or est , and t he r udest ki nd of

l og- hut ; evi dent l y t he pl ace I was i n sear ch of , but no

her mi t . Whi l e I was medi t at i ng my next move, a di smal

howl , l i ke, I shoul d t hi nk, t he " l ul i l ooi ng" of Cent r al

Af r i ca, came f r om out t he nei ghbour i ng bush. I shout ed

mysel f , and i n a f ew moment s " t he Her mi t " appear ed,

and cer t ai nl y at f i r st gl ance " f i l l ed t he bi l l " sat i sf act or i l y.

Hi s head was a t angl ed mass of l ong hai r and bear d, out

of whi ch shone t wo bi g, bl ue eyes ; a l ong, l ean f i gur e,

sl i ght l y bent , and cl ot hed i n a t at t er ed shi r t , and t r ouser s

whi ch no ol d Jew cl ot hesman woul d have pi cked of f a

dunghi l l . I expl ai ned my er r and and pr oduced t he book.

Vacat i on Rambl es 253

He t hanked me, excused hi s dr ess ; had ot her cl ot hes, he

sai d, i n t he house, whi ch he woul d have put on had he

expect ed me ; was r at her exci t ed, so I must excuse hi m, as

hi s " buck " had gone r i ght of f , i n di sgust , he bel i eved, at

t he smal l ness of hi s f l ock, as he had onl y ei ght ewes.

" Buck " I f ound t o be Angl i ce " r am, " and t hat i t was i n

t he hope of l ur i ng back t he i nsuf f i ci ent l y mar r i ed l or d of

hi s f l ock t hat he had been howl i ng when I came up. On

my doubt i ng whet her such a cal l woul d not be mor e l i kel y

t o speed t he f l i ght of t he t r uant " buck, " he r ushed away

i n t he ot her di r ect i on and upl i f t ed i t agai n ; and i n t wo

or t hr ee mi nut es t he ei ght ewes, wi t h sever al l ambs, wer e

al l r ound hi m, r ubbi ng agai nst hi s l egs, whi l e an Angor a

goat l ooked on wi t h di gni t y f r om some yar ds of f . Fr om

our t al k I f ound t hat he was a Shr ewsbur y man, knew

t hr ee or f our l anguages, and mat hemat i cs up t o t he

di f f er ent i al cal cul us ; f ound Engl and " t oo noi sy, " and,

mor eover , coul d get no l and t her e ; had come out and

gone t o t he agr i cul t ur al cl ass at Cor nel l Uni ver si t y ; had

now bought t hi s bi t of l and, on whi ch he coul d l i ve wel l ,

as he was a veget ar i an ( poi nt i ng r ound t o some cor n,

t ur ni ps, et c. , i n hi s encl osur e) ; had i ndi gest i on at f i r st , but

now had f ound out how t o make br ead whi ch agr eed wi t h

Page 152 of 259

hi m. Hi s t r oubl e was t he f or est hogs, whi ch wer e al ways

wat chi ng t o get at hi s cr ops, and hi s f ence, havi ng weak

pl aces, woul d not keep t hem out , so he had t o be al ways

on t he wat ch. I f he had any one t o keep out t he hogs,

he coul d go and f i nd hi s " buck, " he sai d, wi st f ul l y. The

bet t er man Avi t hi n me her e was moved t o of f er t o keep

Avat ch and war d agai nst hogs whi l e he sought hi s " buck " ;

but , on t he whol e, as t he sun was al r eady west er i ng, and I

had doubt s as t o when he mi ght t hi nk of r el i evi ng guar d,

my bet t er man di d not pr evai l , and I changed t he subj ect

t o t he book I had br ought . He gl anced at t he t i t l e- page,

was pl eased t o f i nd t hat i t was of r ecent dat e, as hi s

geol ogy was r ust y. Then, as he di d not i nvi t e me i nt o

hi s l og- hut , I r ode away. Next eveni ng, as I was st r ol l i ng

down our st r eet , my at t ent i on was cal l ed t o t he not i ce-

254 Vacat i on Rambl es

boar d out si de t he chi ef st or e, kept by an excel l ent , ki ndl y

New Engl ander , Tucker by name, who ver y l i ber al l y

al l ows any of hi s nei ghbour s t o use i t . Her e I f ound t he

f ol l owi ng not i ce f r om " t he Her mi t , " whi ch had been sent

up by t he hackman, t o be post ed. I t opens, you wi l l

r emar k, i n t he t r ue pr ophet i c st yl e. I t r an : " Ho! al l

ye passer s by ! St r ayed — l i ke a f ool ! — a Ram ( a mal e

sheep, ) but t s l i ke a ni pper , and r uns af t er ! God wi l l

bl ess t he seer i f he l et s I saac Wi l l i ams, of Sedgemoor

Road, know. That i s al l . Pl ease, Mr . Tucker , post t hi s.

Oh, I f or got , — Buy of Tucker ! " I t hi nk you wi l l agr ee

t hat I have st r uck a bona f i de her mi t i n my ol d age.

But t o r et ur n t o my l oaf i ng i dyl l . Per haps, i f I had t o

sel ect out of sever al t he i deal l oaf i ng haunt i n t hese par t s,

i t woul d be t he ver andah of our doct or , anot her br i ght

New Engl ander , a gr aduat e of Har var d, and M. D. , who,

af t er f our t een year s' pr act i ce at Bost on, was dr i ven Sout h

by t hr eat eni ngs of chest t r oubl es, and happi l y pi t ched on

t hi s t abl el and amongst t he mount ai ns. Not t hat he i s a

l oaf - br ot her , except on r ar e occasi ons ; a man di l i gent i n

hi s busi ness, and pr ompt t o answer any pr of essi onal cal l ;

but as nobody seems ever t o be i l l , hi s l ei sur e i s abundant .

The gr eat er par t of t hi s he spends i n t he st udy and

pr act i ce of gr ape- cul t ur e, i n whi ch he has, i n t he f i ve year s

si nce he t ook i t up, ear ned a hi gh r eput at i on. But i n

t hese aut umn mont hs, al l t he pr uni ng, t hi nni ng, and

t endi ng ar e over i n t he f or enoon, and i n t he hour s whi ch

f ol l ow, whi ch ar e del i ght f ul l y hot and enj oyabl e t o al l

sun- l over s, he i s gener al l y t o be f ound i n hi s ver andah,

wel l suppl i ed wi t h r ocki ng- chai r s. I n f r ont of t he ver andah

i s hi s pr i nci pal vi neyar d, sl opi ng sout h, and at t he bot t om

of t he sl ope, r i ght away t o t he di st ant mount ai n- r ange

( wi t h Pi ke' s Peak soar i ng t o t he cl ouds, t he cent r e of

t he mi l i t ar y t el egr aph syst em i n t he war , f r om whi ch

messages wer e f l ashed t o Look- out Mount ai n, over Chat -

anooga, i n t he cr i t i cal days of bat t l e, bef or e Sher man

st ar t ed on hi s mar ch t o t he sea) , wave beyond wave, as i t

wer e, of many- col our ed f or est , each t aki ng f r esh t i nt s as

Vacat i on Rambl es 255

Page 153 of 259

cl ouds f l i t over , and t he t r i umphant ol d sun sl opes t o t he

AVest . Ther e one may f i nd t he doct or i n hi s r ocker , hi s

f eet hi gher t han hi s head on one of t he ver andah suppor t s

— and al l who have l ear nt t o appr eci at e t he r ocki ng- chai r

wi l l agr ee t hat " heel s up " i s hal f t he bat t l e — hi s t obacco

and a book on vi nes on a smal l t abl e by hi s si de, and over

hi s head, wi t hi n easy r each, a r ope dependi ng f r om t he

ver andah r oof . At f i r st I t ook i t f or t he common domest i c

bel l - pul l , but soon di scover ed i t s mor e subt l e bear i ng on

t he l uxur y of l oaf i ng. The doct or had been much exer ci sed

by t he vi si t s of bi r ds of out r ageous appet i t e t o hi s " Nor t on' s

Vi r gi ni a, " and ot her pr eci ous vi nes. At f i r st he had r e-

sor t ed t o hi s doubl e- bar r el l ed gun and smal l shot — i ndeed,

i t yet st ood i n a cor ner of t he bal cony, l oaded — but had

soon abandoned i t . I t s use was compat i bl e nei t her wi t h

hi s l ove f or bi r ds nor t he enj oyment of hi s r ocki ng- chai r .

So, by an i ngeni ous ar r angement , he had hung bel l s at f i ve

or si x poi nt s i n t he vi neyar d, connect i ng each and al l wi t h

t he dependi ng- r ope, so t hat no sooner di d a bi r d set t l e

wi t h a vi ew t o l unch or di nner , t han i t was sal ut ed by a

peal f r om a bel l cl ose by, whi ch sent i t ski r l i ng back t o

t he f or est , whi l e t he doct or had nei t her t o l ower hi s heel s

nor t ake t he pi pe f r om hi s mout h.

Wat chi ng t he ent i r e di scomf i t ur e of t he bi r ds adds, I

must own, a keener zest even t o t he del i ci ous vi ew and

ai r , and t o t he r acy st or i es of West er n l i f e pour ed out by

one or anot her of t he l oaf - br et hr en. A speci men or t wo

may amuse your r eader s. Pl acar d over t he pi ano i n a

f avour i t e r esor t of Texan cowboys : " Don' t shoot t he

musi ci an ; he i s doi ng hi s best . " Cowboy ent er i ng t he

car s at mi dni ght , t her momet er bel ow zer o, af t er snor t i ng

f or a mi nut e, l et s down a wi ndow, i s r emonst r at ed wi t h,

and r epl i es, " Wal , I ' d as soon sl eep wi t h my head i n a

dead hor se as i n t hi s car wi t h t he wi ndows shut ! "

Anot her t al e I r epeat wi t h hesi t at i on, t hough i t was

ser i ousl y vouched f or by t he nar r at or as goi ng on i n hi s

nei ghbour hood, and wi t hi n hi s own cogni sance. An

eccent r i c set t l er , who pl ayed t he f i ddl e power f ul l y, and

256 Vacat i on Rambl es

l i ved next a man who had t hr own a br i dge over a cr eek,

i n r espect of whi ch t he knot t y quest i on of " r i ght of way "

had ar i sen bet ween t hem, r ead, or di scover ed somehow,

t hat excessi ve vi br at i on was t he cause of t he f al l of br i dges,

and t hat a wel l - known r ai l way i r on br i dge had been

di st i nct l y f el t t o vi br at e t o t he not es of a f i ddl e, al l t hat

was necessar y bei ng t o f i nd t he r i ght chor d and pl ay up.

Ther eupon he set hi msel f on t he peccant br i dge, and

f i ddl ed t i l l he had hi t on t he sympat het i c chor d t o hi s own

sat i sf act i on ; si nce whi ch he has put i n al l hi s spar e t i me

at t he br i dge, f i ddl i ng on t he r i ght chor d and l ooki ng f or

t he si gns of a cr ash and t he di scomf i t ur e of hi s nei ghbour .

A mad wor l d, my mast er s ! And l ucky f or t he wor l d, say

I . But f or t he cr acked f el l ows goi ng up and down, what

a dul l pl ace i t woul d be !

The whol e nei ghbour hood, or , at any r at e, t he men of

hunt i ng age, have suddenl y been r oused i nt o unwont ed

Page 154 of 259

exci t ement and act i vi t y by t he pr esence of a speci men of

t he l ar ger car ni vor a cl ose t o t hi s t own. I t i s ei t her a l ar ge

pant her or what t hey cal l a Mexi can l i on- — at any r at e, as

bi g a beast of t hi s ki nd as ar e br ed over her e, as hi s

f oot pr i nt , seen of many per sons, cl ear l y pr oves. He has

been hear d t o r oar by number s, and Gi l es, t he saw- mi l l

man, who, passi ng al ong whol l y unar med, saw hi m gl i di ng-

t hr ough t he bush cl ose by, put s hi m at f i ve f eet f r om nose

t o t ai l ( r oot , not t i p) at l east . Gi l es adds t hat , at t he

si ght , hi s hai r st ood up and di st i nct l y l i f t ed hi s st r aw hat —

so per haps hi s evi dence must be di scount ed consi der abl y.

Any way, a par t y, now col l ect i ng dogs t o br i ng hi m t o

bay, st ar t t o- mor r ow at dawn t o gi ve an account of hi m.

I t i s mor e t han a year si nce one has vent ur ed down t hi s

way. A sl aught er - house whi ch has l at el y been set up i n

t he woods near by woul d seem t o have dr awn hi m. Let

us hope t hat no cunni ng ol d spor t sman wi l l wat ch t her e

t o- ni ght and bag hi m si ngl e- handed, and I may possi bl y

have t o t el l you of a memor abl e hunt next week.

Vacat i on Rambl es 257

Amer i can Opi ni on on t he Uni on

SS. Umbr i a, 5t h Oct ober 1887.

That pant her - hunt went of f i n a " f i zzl e. " Our cont i n-

gent of det er mi ned spor t smen kept t r yst at dayl i ght , f ul l y

ar med, but some nei ghbour s who wer e t o br i ng t he pr oper

dogs f ai l ed. The sun r ose, br oad and br i ght , and so, af t er

a shor t advance i n ski r mi shi ng or der over t he gr ound

wher e t he sawmi l l man had been so scar ed — j ust t o save

t hei r cr edi t as Mi mr ods — t he chase was abandoned ; wi sel y,

I shoul d t hi nk, f or I can scar cel y i magi ne a mor e hopel ess

under t aki ng t han t he pur sui t of a pant her i n a Tennessee

f or est i n br oad dayl i ght wi t hout dogs. Whet her l awyer

Gi l es had gr ounds f or hi s scar e, and what w r as t he l engt h

of t hat pant her , must now r emai n i or al l t i me i n t hat

usef ul cat egor y of i nsol ubl e quest i ons — l i ke t he i dent i t y

of " Juni us, " and Queen Mar y' s gui l t — whi ch i nnocent l y

empl oy so much of t he spar e t i me of t he human r ace.

I have been back f or t he l ast f or t ni ght " i n amongst t he

cr owd of men, " and i f t he t hi ngs t hey have done ar e but

" ear nest of t he t hi ngs t hat t hey shal l do, " wel l , our gr and-

chi l dr en wi l l have a hi gh ol d t i me of i t ! At any r at e, our

cousi ns hol d t hi s f ai t h vi gor ousl y. Take, f or i nst ance,

t he case of a l eadi ng dr y- goods man who has been si t t i ng

by me i n t he smuki ng- r oom of t hi s shi p, whi ch has been

car r yi ng us f or t he l ast f our days agai nst a head- wi nd at

t he aver age r at e of t went y mi l es an hour . Kecol l ect , si r ,

t hat t hi s shi p i s about 400 f eet i n l engt h, of 8800 t ons

r egi st er , wi t h engi nes of 14, 000 hor se- power , and must at

t hi s moment be as heavy as ( say) l our bi g l uggage- t r ai ns.

I vent ur ed t o suggest t hat , what ever may be i n st or e f or

us i n t he way of f l yi ng, sci ence has about sai d her l ast wor d

i n t he di r ect i on of dr i vi ng st eam or any ot her shi ps on t he

At l ant i c. I f el t al most i ncl i ned t o r esent t he pi t y t i nged

wi t h scor n wi t h whi ch he sai d, " Why, si r I t hi s i s t he

hundr ed and t went y- ei ght h t i me I have cr ossed t hi s ocean.

Page 155 of 259

The f i r st t i me i t t ook me t went y- t wo days. Thi s vessel

S

2 58 Vacat i on Rambl es

does i t i n si x days and a hal f , and I shal l do i t i n hal f

t hat t i me yet , — yes, si r ! " My f r i end must be at l east

si xt y !

The New Yor k hot el s wer e cr ammed as I came t hr ough

wi t h men who had come f r om al l par t s of t he St at es f or

t he yacht - r ace. I went out on a f r i end' s st eam- yacht on

t he Thur sday, when t he second day' s r ace shoul d have

come of f . Ther e was f og and no wi nd of f Sandy Hook, so

af t er l yi ng- t o i n a l oppi ng sea f or a coupl e of hour s, we

j ust st eamed back, some hundr ed of us. But t he game

had been wel l wor t h t he candl e. Anyt hi ng so beaut i f ul

as t he movement s of t hose t wo yacht s i n and out amongst

t he expect ant f l eet of si ght seer s, I never behel d. Ther e

wer e sever al ol d yacht smen ( Amer i cans) on boar d, who

seemed r at her t o t hi nk t he ' Thi st l e t he mor e per f ect of

t he t wo, and when t he second and deci di ng r ace had been

sai l ed, st i l l guessed t hat i f t hei r Commodor e, Pai n, or

Mal col m For bes had sai l ed t he Thi st l e, she woul d not have

been t wel ve, or any, mi nut es behi nd.

As t o mor e ser i ous mat t er s, you may be sur e I l ost no

chance of t al ki ng on our cr i si s wi t h ever y i nt el l i gent

Amer i can or Canadi an, — and I happened upon a gr eat

number of t he l at t er . Amongst t he maj or i t y of Amer i cans

I was much st r uck, and, I own, sur pr i sed, t o f i nd a sor t of

l azy f at al i sm pr evai l i ng, so f ar as t hey t r oubl ed t hei r heads

at al l about t he I r i sh quest i on. Not a man of t hem

bel i eved i n t he t yr anny of t he Br i t i sh Gover nment or t he

wr ongs of t he I r i sh ; but t hey seemed t o t hi nk i t was

somehow dest i ny. They knew t he I r i sh — wer e l i kel y t o

have at l east as bad a t i me wi t h t hem as we ar e havi ng —

but , unl ess you made up your mi nds t o shoot , t her e was

no put t i ng t hem down or br i ngi ng t hem t o r eason. They

had had t o shoot — i n New Yor k dur i ng t he war , and at

ot her t i mes — and mi ght pr obabl y have t o shoot agai n ;

but t hen, t hat was over vi t al mat t er s. We shoul d never

make up our mi nds t o shoot over l et t i ng t hem have a

Par l i ament at Dubl i n, and so t hey woul d get i t by sheer

i nsol ence and i nt r i gue. Such vi ews woul d have depr essed

Vacat i on Rambl es 259

me had I not f ound, on t he ot her hand, t hat t he f ew men

who had mast er ed t he si t uat i on, wi t hout a si ngl e except i on

saw t hat i t was a mat t er , nat i onal l y, of l i f e or deat h,

and hoped our Gover nment woul d shr i nk f r om no measur e

necessar y t o r est or e t he r ul e of l aw, and pr eser ve t he

nat i onal l i f e.

Amongst t he Canadi ans, on t he ot her hand, I di d not

happen upon a si ngl e Home- r ul er — i n f act , was obl i ged t o

own t o mysel f t hat t hey seemed t o set mor e st or e by t he

uni t y of t he Empi r e t han we do i n t he as- yet - Uni t ed

Page 156 of 259

Ki ngdom. I ndeed, i f my acquai nt ances ar e at al l r epr e-

sent at i ve of t he vi ews of our Canadi an f el l ow- subj ect s,

I f eel ver y sur e t hat t he sl i ght bond whi ch hol ds t he

Domi ni on t o us woul d par t wi t hi n a f ew mont hs of t he

t r i umph of t he Home- r ul e agi t at i on. Thi s possi bl e f i asco,

however , di d not seem t o t hem much wor t h t hi nki ng about ;

but what was r eal l y exer ci si ng t hem was t he pr obabi l i t y

of a mor e i nt i mat e uni on or f eder at i on wi t h t he Mot her -

count r y. For def ensi ve pur poses, I was gl ad t o f i nd t hat

t hey saw no di f f i cul t y what ever ; bel i eved, i ndeed, t hat

t hat quest i on was al r eady sol ved. But al l f el t t hat t he

r eal l y di f f i cul t pr obl em was a commer ci al uni on, whi ch,

never t hel ess, must be managed somehow, i f t he Empi r e i s

t o hol d t oget her . On t hi s t her e wer e wi de di f f er ences of

opi ni on, but , on t he whol e, a deci ded i ncl i nat i on t o a pl an

whi ch I wi l l endeavour t o put i n a f ew wor ds. I t i s, t hat

ever y por t i on of t he Empi r e shal l be f r ee, as at pr esent , t o

i mpose what ever t ar i f f of cust oms i t mi ght t hi nk best f or

r ai si ng i t s own r evenue ; but an agr eed di scount ( say, t en

per cent ) shoul d be al l owed on al l goods t he manuf act ur e

or pr oduct of t he Mot her - count r y, or any of i t s possessi ons.

I nasmuch, i t was ar gued, as such a pl an woul d al l ow t he f r ee

admi ssi on of al l f ood and r aw mat er i al , i t ought not t o hur t

t he Fr ee- t r ade suscept i bi l i t i es of Engl and, whi l e l eavi ng t he

sel f - gover ni ng Col oni es and I ndi a f r ee t o r ai se t hei r own

r evenue as mi ght sui t t hei r own vi ews or ci r cumst ances.

On t he ot her hand, i t woul d gi ve an equal and moder at e

advant age t o al l subj ect s of t he Empi r e. A si mi l ar

260 Vacat i on Rambl es

advant age mi ght al so, under t hi s pl an, be gi ven t o

i mpor t at i ons made i n shi ps bel ongi ng t o any por t i on of

t he Empi r e.

You, si r , may ver y pr obabl y have hear d of and con-

si der ed t hi s pl an, as I have been t ol d t hat i t , or one al most

i dent i cal , has been submi t t ed bot h t o t he London Chamber

of Commer ce, and t o t he Col oni al Of f i ce, by Si r Al exander

Gai t . I do not r emember , however , t o have ever seen i t

di scussed i n your col umns, as I t hi nk i t mi ght be wi t h

advant age. One' s br ai n possi bl y i s not so f i t f or t he

exami nat i on of ] : >ol i t i cal pr obl ems on even such a magni f i -

cent shi p as t he Umbr i a as on shor e ; but " af t er t he best

consi der at i on I can gi ve i t , " i t does seem t o me t o be a

sol ut i on whi ch mi ght go f ar t o sat i sf y t he scr upl es of al l

but f anat i cs of t he " buy i n t he cheapest and sel l i n t he

dear est mar ket " gospel .

We have r un 435 mi l es i n t he t eet h of t he wi nd, i n t he

l ast t went y- f our hour s.

EUKOPE— 1876 t o 1895

A Wi nt er Mor ni ng' s Ei de

The pr over b t hat " The ear l y bi r d get s most wor ms " has

no t r uer appl i cat i on t han i n t r avel l i ng, consi der ed as a f i ne

ar t . Of cour se t o hi m who uses l ocomot i on as a mer e

met hod of get t i ng f r om one pl ace t o anot her , i t mat t er s

Page 157 of 259

not hi ng whet her he st ar t s at 3 A. M. or at noon. But t o

t he man who l i kes t o get t he most he can out of hi s l i f e,

and l ooks upon a j our ney as an oppor t uni t y f or get t i ng

some new i nsi ght i nt o t he ways and habi t s and not i ons of

hi s f el l owmen, t her e i s no compar i son bet ween t hei r val ue.

The noonday t r avel l i ng mood, l i ke noonday l i ght , i s

commonpl ace and uni f or m ; whi l e t he ear l y mor ni ng mood,

l i ke t he l i ght when i t f i r st comes, i s f ul l of col our and

sur pr i se. Such, at an} ^ r at e, has been my exper i ence, and

I never made an out - of - t he- way ear l y st ar t wi t hout comi ng

upon one or mor e compani ons who gave me a new gl i mpse

i nt o some cor ner of l i f e, and whose exper i ence I shoul d

have been t he poor er f or havi ng mi ssed. My l ast ex -

per i ence i n t hi s mat t er i s ver y r ecent . I n t he mi dst of

t he wi l d days of l ast December I r ecei ved an unexpect ed

summons on busi ness t o t he nor t h. My appoi nt ment was

f or el even o' cl ock on t he mor r ow, 200 mi l es f r om London.

I t was t oo l at e t o make ar r angement s f or l eavi ng home at

once, so I r esol ved t o st ar t by t he f i r st mor ni ng t r ai n,

whi ch l eaves Eust on Squar e at 5. 15 a. m. Accor di ngl y,

soon af t er f our next mor ni ng I cl osed t he house door gent l y

262 Vacat i on Rambl es

behi nd me, and set out on my wal k, not wi t hout a sense of

t he sel f - appr oval and sat i sf act i on whi ch i s apt t o cr eep

over ear l y r i ser s, and ot her s who pr i de t hemsel ves on

keepi ng ahead of t hei r nei ghbour s.

I t was a f i ne wi l d mor ni ng, wi t h hal f a gal e of wi nd

bl owi ng f r om t he nor t h- west , and dr i vi ng t he l ow r ai n-

cl ouds at headl ong speed acr oss t he deep cl ear sky and

br i ght st ar s. The gr eat t own f el t as f r esh and sweet as a

count r y hi l l si de. Not a soul i n t he st r eet s but an occa-

si onal sol i t ar y pol i ceman, and her e and t her e a scavenger

or t wo, pl yi ng t hei r much- needed t r ade, f or t he wet mud

l ay i nches deep. I was ear l y at t he st at i on, wher e a

sl eepy cl er k was j ust pr epar i ng t o open t he booki ng- of f i ces,

and a coupl e of por t er s wer e wat er i ng and sweepi ng t he

f l oor of t he bi g hal l . Soon my f el l ow- passenger s began t o

ar r i ve, l abour i ng men f or t he most par t , wi t h her e and

t her e a cl er k, or commer ci al t r avel l er , muf f l ed t o t he eyes.

Amongst t hem, as t hey gat her ed r ound t he f i r e, or t ook

shor t r est l ess wal ks up and down t he pl at f or m, was one

who puzzl ed me not a l i t t l e. He had ar r i ved on f oot j ust

bef or e me, i ndeed I had f ol l owed hi m f or t he l ast quar t er

of a mi l e t hr ough Eust on Squar e, and had al r eady begun

t o specul at e as t o who he coul d be, and on what er r and.

But now t hat I coul d get a del i ber at e l ook at hi m under

t he l i ght s i n t he hal l , my cur i osi t y was at once r ai sed and

baf f l ed. He was a st r ongl y bui l t , wel l - set young f el l ow of

f i ve f eet t en or el even, wi t h cl ear gr ay eyes, deep set

under ver y st r ai ght br ows. Hi s hai r was dar k, and woul d

have cur l ed but t hat i t was cr opped t oo shor t . He was

cl ean shaved, so t hat one saw al l t he l ower l i nes of hi s

f ace, whi ch a t hi ck nose, sl i ght l y t ur ned up, j ust hi nder ed

f r om bei ng handsome. He wor e a hi gh seal ski n cap, a

st r i ped f l annel shi r t wi t h t ur n down col l ar s, and a sl i p-

knot t i e wi t h a r at her handsome pi n. Hi s cl ot hes wer e

good enough, but had a somewhat di ssi pat ed l ook, owi ng

per haps t o t he f act t hat onl y one but t on of hi s wai st coat

was f ast ened, and t hat hi s boot s, good br oad doubl e- sol ed

Page 158 of 259

ones, wer e cover ed wi t h dr y mud. Hi s whol e l uggage

Vacat i on Rambl es 263

consi st ed of t he t r avel l i ng- bag he car r i ed i n hi s hand, one

of t hose el abor at e af f ai r s whi ch gener al l y i nvol ve a por t -

mant eau or t wo t o f ol l ow, but swel l ed out of al l gent i l i t y

and st uf f ed t o bur st i ng poi nt .

An Engl i shman ? I asked mysel f . Wel l , yes, — at any

r at e mor e l i ke an Engl i shman t han anyt hi ng el se. A

gent l eman 1 Wel l , yes agai n, on t he whol e ; t hough not

of our convent i onal t ype — at any r at e a man of some

educat i on, and appar ent l y a l i t t l e l ess l i ke t he common

r un of us t han most one meet s.

Her e my specul at i ons wer e cut shor t by t he openi ng

of t he t i cket - wi ndow by t he sl eepy cl er k, and t he obj ect

of t hem mar ched up and t ook a t hi r d- cl ass t i cket f or

Li ver pool . I f ol l owed hi s exampl e. My nat ur al aver si on

t o eat i ng money r aw i n r ai l way t r avel l i ng i ncl i ni ng me t o

such economy, apar t f r om t he i nt er est whi ch my pr obl em

was exci t i ng i n my mi nd. I am bound t o add t hat

not hi ng coul d be mor e comf or t abl e t han t he car r i ages

pr ovi ded on t he occasi on f or t he t hi r d- cl ass passenger s of

t he N. W. R. I f ol l owed t he seal ski n cap and got i nt o t he

same car r i age wi t h i t s owner . As good l uck woul d have

i t , no one f ol l owed us. He put hi s bag down i n a cor ner ,

and st r et ched hi msel f al ong hi s si de of t he car r i age wi t h hi s

head on i t . I had t i me t o l ook hi m wel l over agai n, and

t o set hi m down i n my own mi nd as a young Engl i sh

engi neer , who had been wor ki ng on some cont i nent al

r ai l way so l ong as t o have l ost hi s Engl i sh i dent i t y some-

what , when he st ar t ed up, r ubbed hi s eyes, t ook a good

st r ai ght l ook at me, and asked i f any one comi ng

f r om abr oad coul d cut us of f i n t he st eamer t hat met

t hi s t r ai n. I f ound at once t hat I was mi st aken as t o

nat i onal i t y.

I answer ed t hat no one coul d cut us of f , as t her e was

no st r ai ght er or qui cker way of get t i ng t o Li ver pool t han

t hi s ; but t hat he was mi st aken i n t hi nki ng t hat any

st eamer met t he t r ai n.

Wel l , he di dn' t know about meet i ng i t , but anyway

t her e was a st eamer whi ch went r i ght away f r om Li ver pool

264 Vacat i on Rambl es

about noon, f or he had got hi s passage by her , whi ch he

had bought at t he t obacco- st or e near t he st at i on.

He handed hi s t i cket f or t he boat t o me, as i f wi shi ng

my opi ni on upon i t , whi ch I gave t o t he ef f ect t hat i t

seemed al l r i ght , addi ng t hat I di d not know t hat t i cket s

coul d be bought about t he st r eet s as t hey coul d be i n

Amer i ca.

Wel l , he had t hought i t woul d save hi m t i me, per haps

save t he packet , as she mi ght have sai l ed whi l e he was

Page 159 of 259

af t er hi s t i cket i n Li ver pool , whi ch t own he di dn' t know

hi s way about . But now, coul dn' t any one f r om t he

Cont i nent cut her of f 1 He had hear d t her e was a r out e by

Chest er and Hol yhead, whi ch woul d br i ng any one who

t ook i t aboar d of her at Qneenst own.

I answer ed t hat t hi s was pr obabl y so, begi nni ng t o

doubt i n my mi nd whet her my compani on mi ght not , f or

al l hi s st r ai ght f or war d l ooks and ways, have come by

t he bag f el oni ousl y. Coul d i t be anot her gr eat j ewel

r obber y ?

I don' t know whet her he not i ced any doubt f ul l ook i n

my eyes, but he added at once t hat he was on t he st r ai ght

r un f r om Hei del ber g. He had come f r om t her e t o London

i n t went y- si x hour s.

I made some r emar k as t o t he beaut y of Hei del ber g,

and asked i f he knew i t wel l .

Why, yes, he sai d he ought t o, f or he had been a st udent

at t he Uni ver si t y t her e f or t he l ast ni ne mont hs.

Why t hen was he on t he st r ai ght r un home ? I vent ur ed

t o ask. Ter m wasn' t over ?

No ; t er m wasn' t over ; but he had been ar r est ed, and

di dn' t want t o go t o pr i son at St r asbur g, wher e one

Amer i can st udent was i n f or about t wo year s al r eady.

But how di d he manage t o get of f ? I asked, now

t hor oughl y i nt er est ed i n hi s st or y.

Wel l , he had j ust r un hi s bai l . When he was ar r est ed

he had sent f or t he doct or at whose house he l odged t o

bai l hi m out . That was what t r oubl ed hi m most . He

woul dn' t have t he Her r Doct or sl i pped up anyway. He

Vacat i on Rambl es 265

was goi ng t o send t he money di r ect l y he got home, and

t her e wer e t hi ngs enough l ef t of hi s t o cover t he money.

What was he ar r est ed f or ?

For cal l i ng out a Ger man st udent .

But I t hought t he Ger man st udent s wer e al ways f i ght i ng

duel s.

So t hey wer e, but onl y wi t h swor ds, whi ch t hey wer e

al ways pr act i si ng. They wer e so padded when t hey f ought

t hat t hey coul d not be hur t except j ust i n t he f ace, and

t he swor d ar m was so bandaged t hat t her e was no pl ay at

al l except f r om t he wr i st . You woul d see t he Ger man

st udent s even when out wal ki ng, mi l es away f r om t he t own,

keepi ng pl ayi ng away wi t h t hei r wal ki ng- st i cks al l t he t i me,

so as t o t r ai n t hei r wr i st s.

What was hi s quar r el about 1

Wel l , i t was j ust t hi s. The Amer i can st udent s, of

Page 160 of 259

whom t her e wer e a l ar ge number t her e, kept pr et t y much

t o t hemsel ves, and no l ove was l ost bet ween t hem and t he

Ger mans. They had an Amer i can Cl ub t o whi ch t hey al l

bel onged, j ust t o keep t hem t oget her and see any f el l ow

t hr ough who was i n a scr ape. He and some of t he

Amer i can st udent s wer e si t t i ng i n t he beer gar den, cl ose

t o a t abl e of Ger mans. For get t i ng t he nei ghbour hood, he

had t i l t ed hi s chai r and l eant back i n i t , and so come

agai nst a Ger man head. The owner j umped up, and a

shar p al t er cat i on f ol l owed, endi ng i n t he Ger man' s cal l i ng

hi m out wi t h swor ds. Thi s he r ef used, but sent a chal l enge

t o f i ght wi t h pi st ol s by t he Pr esi dent of t he Cl ub, a r eal

f i ne man, who had shot hi s t wo men down Sout h bef or e he

went t o Hei del ber g. The answer t o t hi s was hi s ar r est ,

and ar r est was a ver y ser i ous t hi ng now. For some l i t t l e

t i me si nce, a Ger man and an Amer i can f ought , wi t h swor ds

f i r st and t hen wi t h pi st ol s. The Amer i can had hi s f ace

cut open f r om t he eye r i ght down acr oss t he mout h, but

when i t came t o pi st ol s he shot t he Ger man, who di ed i n

an hour . So he was i n j ai l , and chal l engi ng wi t h pi st ol s

had been made an of f ence puni shabl e by i mpr i sonment , and

t hat was no j oke i n a Ger man mi l i t ar y pr i son.

266 Vacat i on Rambl es

Di d he expect t he Uni ver si t y aut hor i t i es woul d send

af t er hi m t hen ]

No ; but hi s f ol k wer e al l i n Ger many f or t he wi nt er .

He had a younger br ot her at Hei del ber g who had t aken

hi s bag down t o t he st at i on f or hi m, and woul d have l et

hi s f at her know, as he had t ol d hi m t o do. I f he had

t el egr aphed t he ol d gent l eman mi ght come st r ai ght of f and

st op hi m yet , but he r at her guessed he woul d be so mad

he woul dn' t come. No ; he di dn' t expect t o see hi s f ol k

agai n f or t hr ee or f our year s.

But why 1 Af t er al l , sendi ng a chal l enge of whi ch

not hi ng came was not so ver y hei nous an of f ence.

Yes, but i t was t he second t i me. He had r un f r om an

Amer i can uni ver si t y t o escape expul si on f or havi ng set f i r e

t o an out house. Then he went st r ai ght t o New Yor k,

whi ch he want ed t o see, and st opped t i l l hi s money was al l

sone. Hi s f at her was mad enough about t hat .

I sai d pl ai nl y t hat I di dn' t wonder , and was goi ng t o

add somet hi ng by way of i mpr ovi ng t he occasi on, but f or

a l ook of such deep sor r ow whi ch passed over t he boy' s

f ace t hat I t hought hi s consci ence mi ght wel l do t he wor k

bet t er t han I coul d.

He opened hi s bag and t ook out a phot ogr aph, and t hen

hi s si x- shoot er — a sel f - cocki ng Ger man one, he sai d, whi ch

was qui cker and car r i ed a heavi er bal l t han any he had

seen i n Amer i ca ; and t hen hi s pi pes and ci gar t ubes ; and

t hen he r ol l ed a ci gar et t e and l i ght ed i t ; and, as t he dawn

was now come, began t o ask quest i ons about t he count r y.

But al l i n vai n ; back t he scene he was r unni ng f r om came,

do what he woul d. Hi s youngest br ot her , a l i t t l e f el l ow

of t en, was down wi t h f ever . He had spoi l t Chr i st mas f or

t he whol e f ami l y. I t woul d cut t hem up awf ul l y. But t o

Page 161 of 259

a suggest i on t hat he shoul d go st r ai ght back he coul d not

l i st en. No, he was goi ng st r ai ght t hr ough t o Cal i f or ni a,

t he best pl ace f or hi m. He had never done any good yet ,

but he was goi ng t o do i t now. He had got a l et t er or

t wo t o Cal i f or ni ans f r om some of hi s f el l ow- st udent s, whi ch

woul d gi ve hi m some openi ng. He woul dn' t see hi s peopl e

Vacat i on Rambl es 267

f or f our or f i ve year s, t i l l he got somet hi ng t o show t hem.

He woul d have t o pi t ch r i ght i n, or el se st ar ve. He woul d

go r i ght i nt o t he f i r st t hi ng t hat came al ong out t her e, and

make somet hi ng.

As we got f ur t her down t he l i ne t he mor ni ng cl ear ed,

and we had many f el l ow- passenger s ; but my young f r i end,

as I mi ght al most cal l hi m by t hi s t i me, st uck t o me, and

seemed t o get some r el i ef by t al ki ng of hi s past doi ngs and

f ut ur e pr ospect . I f ound t hat he had been at Wur zbur g

f or a shor t t i me bef or e goi ng t o Hei del ber g, so had had a

st udent ' s exper i ence of t wo of t he most cel ebr at ed Ger man

Uni ver si t i es. My own i deas of t hose seat s of l ear ni ng,

bei ng f or t he most par t der i ved f r om t he wr i t i ngs of Mr .

Mat t hew Ar nol d, r ecei ved, I am bound t o own, r at her

sever e shocks f r om t he evi dent l y t r ut hf ul exper i ence of

one medi cal st udent .

He had si mpl y pai d hi s necessar y f l or i ns ( about

l

wor t h) f or hi s mat r i c ul at i on f ee, and doubl e t hat s um f or

t wo s et s of l ec t ur es f or whi c h he ent er ed. He had pas s ed

no mat r i c ul at i on ex ami nat i on, or i ndeed any ot her ; had

at t ended l ec t ur es or not , j us t he pl eas ed — about one i n

t hr ee he put as hi s av er age — but t her e was no r ol l - c al l or

r egi s t er , and no one t hat he k new of s eemed t o c ar e t he

l eas t whet her he was t her e or not . Howev er , he s eemed

t o t hi nk t hat but f or hi s unl uc k y l i t t l e di f f i c ul t y he c oul d

eas i l y at t hi s r at e hav e pas s ed t he ex ami nat i on f or t he

degr ee of doc t or of medi c i nes . The doc t or ' s degr ee was

a mi ght y f i ne t hi ng, and muc h s ought af t er , but di dn' t

amount t o muc h pr of es s i onal l y , at l eas t not i n Ger man} ' ,

wher e t he doc t or has a St at e ex ami nat i on t o pas s af t er he

has got hi s degr ee. But i n Amer i c a, or any wher e el s e, he

bel i ev ed t hey c oul d j us t pr ac t i s e on a Ger man M. D. degr ee,

and he k new of one Her r Doc t or out Wes t who was about

as f i t t o t ak e hol d of any s i c k f el l ow as he was hi ms el f .

Oh, Mat t hew, Mat t hew, my ment or ! When I got home I

had t o t ak e down t hy v ol ume on Uni v er s i t i es i n Ger many ,

and r es t or e my f ai l i ng f ai t h by a gl anc e at t he Appendi x ,

gi v i ng a l i s t of t he c our s es of l ec t ur es by Pr of es s or s , Pr i v ab-

268 Vac at i on Rambl es

doc ent en, and r eader s of t he Uni v er s i t y of Ber l i n dur i ng

one wi nt er , i n whi c h t he Medi c al Fac ul t y ' s s ubj ec t s oc c upy

sev en pages ; and t o r emi nd my s el f , t hat t he c har ac t er i s t i c s

of t he Ger man Uni v er s i t i es ar e " Lehr f r ei hei t und Lem-

f r ei hei i , " " Li ber t y f or t he t eac her , and l i ber t y f or t he

l ear ner " ; al s o t hat " t he Fr enc h Uni v er s i t y has no l i ber t y ,

and t he Engl i s h Uni v er s i t i es hav e no s c i enc es ; t he Ger man

Uni v er s i t i es hav e bot h. " Too muc h l i ber t y of one k i nd

Page 162 of 259

t hi s s t udent at any r at e bor e wi t nes s t o, and i n one of hi s

ser i ous moment s was el oquent on t he danger and mi s c hi ef

of t he s y s t em, s o f ar as hi s out l ook had gone.

By t he t i me our r oads di v er ged, t he y oung r unaway

had qui t e won me ov er t o f or get hi s es c apades , by hi s f r ank

di s c l os ur es of al l t hat was pas s i ng i n hi s mi nd of r egr et and

t ender nes s , hopef ul nes s and audac i t y ; and I s or r owed f or

a f ew moment s on t he pl at f or m as t he s eal s k i n c ap di s -

appear ed at t he wi ndow of t he Li v er pool c ar r i age, f r om

whi c h he wav ed a c heer y adi eu.

As I wal k ed t owar ds t he c ar r i age t o go on my own way ,

I f ound my s el f r egr et t i ng t hat I s houl d s ee hi s r uddy f ac e

no mor e, and wi s hi ng hi m al l s uc c es s " i n t hat new wor l d

whi c h i s t he ol d, " f or whi c h he was bound, wi t h no pos s es -

si ons but hi s hand- bag and s el f - r el i anc e t o mak e hi s way

wi t h. I mi ght hav e s at al one f or t hr i c e as l ong wi t h an

Engl i s h y oungs t er , i n l i k e c as e, wi t hout k nowi ng a wor d

of hi s hi s t or y ; but t hen, s uc h hi s t or y c oul d nev er hav e

happened t o an Engl i s hman, f or he nev er woul d hav e r un

hi s bai l , and woul d hav e gone t o pr i s on and s er v ed hi s

t i me as a mat t er of c our s e.

How muc h eac h nat i on has t o l ear n of t he ot her ! But

I t r us t t hat by t hi s t i me my y oung f r i end has s een t o i t

t hat t he good- nat ur ed Her r Doc t or who w r ent bai l f or hi m

has n' t " s l i pped up any way . "

SOUTHPORT

22nd I f ar c h.

I wonder i f y ou wi l l c ar e t o t ak e a s eas i de l et t er , at

t hi s bus i es t t i me of t he y ear ? Fol k hav e no bus i nes s t o

Vac at i on Rambl es 269

be " on t he l oaf " bef or e Eas t er , I r eadi l y admi t . St i l l ,

t her e i s muc h f or c e and good- s ens e, I hav e al way s hel d, i n

t hat t ough, ol d r egi c i de Maj or - Gener al Ludl ow' s ac t i on,

when he f ound Engl and under Cr omwel l t oo nar r ow t o

hol d hi m. He mi gr at ed t o Swi t z er l and, and c har ac t er -

i s t i c al l y c hanged hi s f ami l y mot t o t o " Ubi l i ber t as , i bi

pat r i a" ( " Wher e I c an hav e my own way , t her e i s my

count r y " ) or ( i f I may be al l owed a f r ee r ender i ng t o f i t

t he oc c as i on) , " Whenev er man c an l oaf , t hen i s l ong

vac at i on. "

But my mot i v e f or wr i t i ng i s r eal l y of anot her k i nd.

I n t hes e l at er y ear s , a l ar ge and gr owi ng mi nor i t y of my

per s onal f r i ends and ac quai nt anc es s eem t o be af f l i c t ed wi t h

t hat demon c al l ed Neur al gi a,

— s ome k i nd of pai nf ul

af f ec t i on c onnec t ed wi t h t he ner v es of t he head and f ac e,

whi c h mak es t he bur den of l i f e i ndef i ni t el y heav i er t o c ar r y

t han i t has any r i ght t o be. To al l s uc h I f eel bound t o s ay ,

Gi v e t hi s pl ac e a t r i al i n y our f i r s t l ei s ur e. I n one c as e,

at any r at e, and t hat an appar ent l y c hr oni c one, i n whi c h

ev er y eas t wi nd, and al mos t ev er y s udden c hange of

t emper at ur e, br ought wi t h i t ac ut e s uf f er i ng, I hav e s een

wi t h my own ey es a c ompl et e c ur e ef f ec t ed by a f ew day s

i n t hi s ai r . The ex per i ment was t r i ed t hr ee mont hs s i nc e,

Page 163 of 259

and f r om t hat t i me t he demon s eems t o hav e been ex or c i s ed,

and has been qui t e unabl e t o r et ur n, t hough we hav e had

a f ul l av er age i n t hes e par t s of s udden c hanges of

t emper at ur e,

— eas t wi nds , c ol d r ai ns , and t he ot her

ameni t i es of ear l y s pr i ng i n Engl and.

Can I ac c ount f or t hi s ] Wel l , s o f ar as I c an j udge,

t he pec ul i ar c onf or mat i on of t he s hor e mus t hav e muc h t o

say t o i t . Fr om t he open wi ndow wher e I am s i t t i ng,

t her e l i es bet ween me and t he s ea ( i t bei ng l ow wat er ) an

al mos t l ev el s t r et c h of s and of mor e t han hal f a mi l e i n

dept h. Bey ond t hat t her e i s a nar r ow s t r i p of s ea, on

whi c h a f l eet of t i ny f i s her men' s c r af t , wi t h t hei r r uddy -

br own s ai l s , ar e pl y i ng t hei r t r ade ; and agai n, bey ond t hat ,

bet ween c hannel and open s ea, i s anot her l ong s and- bank .

Now I am t ol d, and s ee no r eas on t o doubt , t hat t he ev apor a-

270 Vac at i on Rambl es

t i on f r om t hi s gr eat ex pans e of wet s and i s c har ged wi t h

doubl e t he amount of oz one whi c h woul d r i s e f r om t he l i k e

ar ea of s al t - wat er . But what ev er t he c aus e, t he f ac t s t ands

as I hav e s t at ed abov e. I n anot her hour or t wo t he s ea wi l l

be c l os e up t o t hes e wi ndows , l appi ng agai ns t t he s ea- wal l ,

and s poi l i ng t he v i ew f or t he t i me, but , happi l y , onl y f or a

shor t t i me. For whi l e i t i s up, t her e i s not hi ng but v er y

shal l ow, muddy wat er t o be s een, on whi c h t he f ai t hf ul ol d

sun, t r y as he wi l l , c an pai nt no pi c t ur es . Wher eas at l ow

t i de, t he c ol our s of t hes e s andy was t es — t he s t eel y gl eam

of t he wet par t s , t he br i ght y el l ow of t he dr y , and t he

war m and r i c h t i nt s of br own of t he i nt er medi at e, and t he

quai nt , bl ac k l i ne of t he pi er , r unni ng out ac r os s t hem al l

t i l l i t r eac hes t he pal e bl ue of t he c hannel , wher e t he

f i s hi ng- boat s al l l i e at anc hor r ound t he pi er - head at s uns et

— ar e one per pet ual f eas t , ev en t o t he unt r ai ned ey e.

What t he del i ght mus t be t o a pai nt er , when t he l ev el s un

t ur ns t he bl ac k s i nt o deep pur pl es , and gl or i f i es al l t he

yel l ows and br owns , and gi v es t he s t eel y gl eams a bal ef ul

and c r uel gl i nt , I c an onl y gues s , unl es s , i ndeed, i t s houl d

mak e hi m hang hi ms el f , i n des pai r of r epr oduc i ng t hem on

mor t al c anv as . That l ong, bl ac k pi er i s our f av our i t e

pl ac e of r es or t . Pr obabl y t he oz one i s s t r onger t her e t han

el s ewher e. I t i s t hr ee- quar t er s of a mi l e l ong, and at t he

end, at noon, a mos t at t r ac t i v e, dai l y per f or manc e c omes of f

gr at i s . At t hat hour t he gul l s ar e f ed by an of f i c i al of t he

pi er c ompany , and af t er war ds , at i nt er v al s , by c hi l dr en,

who br i ng s c r aps of v i ands i n t hei r poc k et s f or t hi s pur pos e.

I am not def endi ng t he pr ac t i c e, whi c h t ends , no doubt , t o

pauper i s e a number of t hes e del i ght f ul bi r ds . I hav e

wat c hed t hem c ar ef ul l y , and nev er s een one of t hem go of f

t o ear n hi s hones t , dai l y f i s h. Ther e t hey s i t l i ght l y on

t he wat er , wi t h heads t ur ned t o t he pi er - head, and f l oat

pas t wi t h t he t i de, r i s i ng f or a s hor t f l i ght bac k agai n, as

i t c ar r i es t hem t oo f ar pas t t o s ee when t he dol es ar e

begi nni ng t o be s er v ed. When t hes e begi n, t hey ar e al l

i n t he ai r , wheel i ng and c r os s i ng eac h ot her i n per f ec t

f l i ght t o get t he pr oper s woopi ng- poi nt . I t s eems t o be a

Vac at i on Rambl es 271

Page 164 of 259

r ul e of t he game t hat t hey pi c k up t he f r agment s i n t hei r

swoop, f or when t hi s i s neat l y done by any one, t he r es t

l eav e hi m al one, t hough he may c ar r y of f a l ar ger pr i z e

t han he i s abl e t o s wal l ow on t he wi ng. But i n a hi gh wi nd

t her e i s t r oubl e. Not one i n a doz en of t hem c an t hen be

sur e of hi s pr ey i n hi s s woop, and af t er one or t wo at t empt s

t he gr eedy ones al i ght and at t ac k t he v i ands on t he wat er .

But t hi s s eems t o be agai ns t t he r ul es of t he game, and

i ns t ant l y ot her s al i ght by t he s i de of t he t r ans gr es s or , and

st r i v e eager l y f or what ev er of t he des i r ed mor s el i s s t i l l

out s i de hi s y el l ow beak . I not ed wi t h pl eas ur e t hat t her e

ar e gener al l y a f ew who wi l l t ak e no par t i n t hes e

squabbl es , but i f t hey f ai l ed i n t hei r s woop, s oar ed up

agai n wi t h di gni t y , t o wai t f or anot her c hanc e. Thes e

mus t , I t ak e i t , be undemor al i s ed gul l s , f r om a di s t anc e.

Al way s pl ay y our game f ai r , or t her e wi l l be t r oubl e,

whet her amongs t bi r ds or men.

At ot her s eas i de pl ac es t he s hal l ownes s of t he s and

l i mi t s t he pur e del i ght of c hi l dr en i n t hei r c as t l e- bui l di ng.

Her e i t s eems boundl es s . I s aw one s t ur dy ur c hi n

yes t er day t hr owi ng out s t onel es s s and f r om a hol e s ome

f our f eet deep. The c as t l es and engi neer i ng wor k s ar e

t her ef or e on a s pl endi d s c al e, s ev er al of t hem f r om f i v e t o

t en y ar ds ac r os s , i ns i de whi c h bi t s of ol d s par s ( por t i ons , I

f ear , of wr ec k s ) ar e ut i l i s ed f or c aus eway s and br i dges .

The i nf ant bui l der s ar e ambi t i ous , f or I hav e s een f r equent

at t empt s , not whol l y uns uc c es s f ul , at put t i ng s and s t eepl es

on t he c hur c hes . Thes e hi gher ef f or t s wer e al l made by

gi r l s , who, i ndeed, I r egr et t o s ay , s eemed t o do not onl y

t he dec or at i v e, but t he s ubs t ant i al wor k . The boy s

empl oy ed t hems el v es mai nl y i n c r eepi ng t hr ough t he hol es

whi c h t he gi r l s had dug under t he s par s , t o r epr es ent

br i dges , and i n k noc k i ng down t he boundar y wal l s . I s

t hi s a s i gn of our t ops y - t ur v y t i mes 1 I n my day , we boy s

di d al l t he bui l di ng and engi neer i ng, and t he gi r l s us ed t o

come and s i t on our wal l s , and des t r oy our c as t l es . On

t hi s hi ghes t par t of t he s ands , t he c hi l dr en' s pl ay gr ound,

t her e s t and al s o c er t ai n s k el et ons of boot hs , t o be c ov er ed

272 Vac at i on Rambl es

wi t h c anv as , I pr es ume, i n t he s ummer , f or t he s al e of

gi nger - beer and c ak es . Thes e, t he l ar ges t es pec i al l y , s ome

ni ne f eet hi gh, at t r ac t ed t he boy s , s ev er al of whom es s ay ed

t o r eac h t he hi ghes t c r os s - bar . Onl y one s uc c eeded whi l e

I wat c hed, a bor n s ai l or - boy , who was not t o be f oi l ed, and

suc c eeded i n get t i ng on t o i t . Ther e he s at , and l ook ed

sc or nf ul l y down on t he s and- di gger s , i n t he t emper , no

doubt , of t he c hor us of t he ol d s ea s ong —

We j ol l y s ai l or boy s a- s i t t i ng up al of t ,

And t he l and- l ubber s f unk i ng down bel ow.

Af t er a t i me he des c ended, and, l ook i ng f or a f ew moment s

at t he di gger s , went s t r ai ght away ac r os s t he s ands t owar ds

t he s ea. I s aw t hat he had onl y a wooden s pade, whi l e

mos t of t hei r s had i r on heads .

Ther e i s anot her k i nd of amus ement whi c h i s s t r ange

t o me, bei ng nec es s ar i l y c onf i ned t o gr eat ex pans es of s and.

A boat on wheel s , c al l ed t he Fl y i ng Dut c hman, c ar eer s

Page 165 of 259

al ong at a s pl endi d pac e when t her e i s wi nd enough, and I

am t ol d c an t ac k handi l y , and nev er r uns i nt o t he s ea. I f

i t di d, i t woul d not mat t er , as i t mus t at onc e ups et i n

suc h c as e i n v er y s hoal wat er . When t he Koy al Soc i et y

was her e, s ev er al emi nent phi l os opher s wer e r epor t ed t o

be di s por t i ng t hems el v es i n t he Fl y i ng Dut c hman, when

t he Pr es i dent , Pr of es s or Cay l ey , c al l ed on t hem t o r ead

paper s , or mak e pr omi s ed s peec hes .

Thi s f l at s andy c oas t i s f ar f r om bei ng s o i nnoc ent as i t

l ook s . Ther e ar e t he wr ec k s of t wo v es s el s i n s i ght ev en

now. One of t hes e, I hear , i t t ook t he l i f eboat f our t een

hour s ' c ont i nuous har d wor k t o r eac h, and t hey br ought of f

ev er y man of t he c r ew, t went y - f i v e i n number — a f eat

des er v i ng wi der f ame t han i t has at t ai ned. They mus t be

gl or i ous s ea- wor t hi es , t hes e Lanc as hi r e f i s her men ! Of t he

f i ne publ i c bui l di ngs , t he f our - mi l es t r amway , t he Fr ee

Li br ar y , Bot ani c Gar dens , and t he r es t , I need not s peak .

Lor d Der by ' s mot on openi ng t he Bot ani c Gar dens i s

enough,

— t hat t he Sout hpor t f ol k c an s k at e on r eal i c e i n

Jul y , and s i t under pal m- t r ees at Chr i s t mas . But I may

Vac at i on Rambl es 273

say t hat t he es pl anade i s a gr and c our s e f or t r i c y c l er s and

bi c y c l er s , who s eem f ond of c hal l engi ng and r unni ng r ac es

wi t h t r ades men' s c ar t s — a s omewhat r i s k y oper at i on f or

ot her v ehi c l es and pas s enger s .

One wor d, howev er , bef or e I c l os e, about t he mos t

st r i k i ng of t he c hur c hes , St . Andr ew' s . I was at t r ac t ed t o

i t by i t s good pr opor t i ons , and t he s t one t r ac er y of s ev er al

of t he wi ndows , r emi ndi ng one of t he pat t er ns of t he ear l y

dec or at ed per i od of Got hi c ar t . I t c an s eat s ome 1500

peopl e on t he f l oor , t her e bei ng no gal l er i es . I am s or r y

t o s ay , howev er , t hat appear anc es ar e dec ei t f ul . I t i s of

no us e t o hav e f i ne pr opor t i ons and good dec or at i on i f

t hey won' t s t and ; and unhappi l y , al t hough t he c hur c h i s

onl y t wel v e y ear s ol d, t he c l er i s t or y wal l s hav e been bl own

out of t he per pendi c ul ar , s o t hat t he whol e nav e r oof has

t o c ome of f t hat t hey may be s ol i dl y r ebui l t . What woul d

an ol d monk i s k ar c hi t ec t hav e s ai d t o s uc h a c at as t r ophe ?

The mor e' s t he pi t y , i nas muc h as t he nec es s ar y c l os i ng of

t he c hur c h i s goi ng t o s hel v e, pr obabl y f or mont hs , t he

mos t s t r i k i ng pr eac her I hav e hear d t hi s mont h of Sunday s .

I f i r s t l ear nt , s i r , i n y our c ol umns t he gol den r ul e, t hat

dur i ng pr ay er s t he wor s hi pper i s r es pons i bl e f or k eepi ng

up hi s own at t ent i on, whi l e at s er mon- t i me i t i s t he

par s on' s bus i nes s . Wel l , I hav e been t o St . Andr eAv ' s f or

t he l as t t hr ee Sunday s , and dur i ng s er mons , none of whi c h

hav e l as t ed l es s t han hal f an hour , hav e nei t her gone t o

sl eep, nor t hought about any t hi ng but what t he pr eac her

was s ay i ng. I s us pec t i t i s ( as Apol l o s ay s of Theodor e

Par k er , i n t he " Fabl e f or Cr i t i c s " ) t hat

—

Thi s i s what mak es hi m t he c r owd - dr awi ng pr eac her ,

Ther e' s a bac k gr ound of God t o eac h har d- wor k i ng f eat ur e,

Ev er y wor d t hat he s peak s has been f i er i l y f ur nac ed

I n t he bl as t of a l i f e t hat has s t r uggl ed i n ear nes t .

What ev er be t he c aus e, howev er , t her e i s t he f ac t ; and I

own I am s omewhat s ur pr i s ed, bei ng r at her c ur i ous about

Page 166 of 259

such mat t er s, t hat I had never hear d t he name of

Pr ebendar y Cr oss bef or e I happened t o come t o t hi s pl ace.

T

274 Vacat i on Rambl es

A Vi l l age Fest i val

" Pan i s dead ! " So, at l east , t hose who cl ai m t o be

t eacher s of us Engl i sh on such subj ect s have t ol d us ; and

i f our poet s cannot be t r ust ed about t hem, who can 1 The

pr esent wr i t er , at any r at e, does not pr et end t o an opi ni on

whet her Pan i s dead, or , i ndeed, whet her he was ever

al i ve. But i f so, he ought t o have kept al i ve, f or never

sur el y was hi s speci al busi ness so f l our i shi ng i n our count r y

as i n t hese l ast days. Al l r ound t he Wel sh bor der on

bot h si des t her e i s not a haml et whi ch i s not i ndul gi ng i n

i t s " Luper cal i a" i n t hese summer days, i n spi t e of t he

col d and wet whi ch have i noppor t unel y come upon us.

For t he most par t , t hese " f east s of Pan " ar e al most

monot onousl y l i ke one anot her ; but I have j ust r et ur ned

f r om one whi ch had char act er i st i cs of i t s own — a pl easi ng

var i et y, and cr edi t abl e, I t hi nk, t o gal l ant l i t t l e Wal es, f or

t he scene of i t was over t he bor der . My at t ent i on was

cal l ed t o i t by a l ar ge r ed bi l l at our st at i on, announci ng

t hat , on t he 9t h i nst . t he annual f est i val of t he Gr esf or d

Ladi es' Cl ub woul d be hel d, f or whi ch r et ur n t i cket s

mi ght be had at t empt i ng r at es ; and f ur t her , t hat " no

r i f l e- gal l er i es, or st al l s used f or t he sal e of nut s and

or anges, wi l l be al l owed t o be put up i n t he vi l l age or

hi ghways on t he day. " Why shoul d a l adi es' cl ub i nvi t e

me, and al l men, by l ar ge r ed bi l l , t o be pr esent at t hei r

f est i val , and at t he same t i me depr i ve me of t he chance of

i ndul gi ng i n t he f avour i t e f east past i me of t hese par t s 1 I

r esol ved t o sat i sf y mysel f ; and r eachi ng t he pr et t y

st at i on, i n due cour se f ound mysel f on t he pl at f or m wi t h

per haps a dozen women of al l r anks and ages — evi dent l y

member s of t he cl ub, f or each of t hem wor e a whi t e scar f

over t he r i ght shoul der , and car r i ed a bl ue wand wi t h a

nosegay at t he t op. Fol l owi ng admi r i ngl y up t he st eep

hi l l wi t h ot her spect at or s, I saw t hem ent er a wi cket - gat e

under an ar ch of f l ower s, and r emai ned out si de, wher e t he

br ass band of t he count y yeomanr y wer e maki ng most

Vacat i on Rambl es 275

ener get i c musi c. Pr esent l y t he gat e opened, and a

pr ocessi on of t he member s emer ged t wo- and- t wo, and,

headed by t he band i n f ul l bl ast , mar ched, a dai nt y

pr ocessi on, each one whi t e- scar f ed and car r yi ng a nosegay-

t opped wand, t o t he par i sh chur ch har d by on t he hi l l - t op.

I t was a uni que pr ocessi on, so f ar as my exper i ence goes.

Fi r st came t he squi r e' s wi f e, t he cl ub Pr esi dent , wi t h t he

seni or member , f ol l owed by anot her l ady, I bel i eve f r om

t he r ect or y, wi t h t he member next i n seni or i t y. These

t wo, bot h past ei ght y, I r emar ked, i nst ead of t he whi t e

scar f cr ossi ng t he shoul der and l ooped at t he wai st wi t h

Page 167 of 259

bl ue, wor e l ar ge whi t e handker chi ef s, t r i mmed wi t h bl ue,

over bot h shoul der s, shawl - wi se. Thi s I f ound was t he

ol d cust om, t he r egul ar member s f or mer l y wear i ng t he

shawl , t he honor ai y member s t he scar f , f or di st i nct i on' s

sake. Now, al l member s, r egul ar and honor ar y al i ke, wear

t he scar f . We ar e l evel l i ng up f ast , and I own I r egr et i t ,

i n t hi s mat t er of dr ess. As a boy, I was i n t hi s par t of

Wal es, and al most ever y woman on hol i days wor e t he r ed

cl oak and hi gh bl ack hat , and l ooked f ar bet t er , I t hi nk,

t han t hei r descendant s at t hi s Gr esf or d Cl ub f et e, t hough

sever al of t hese wer e as wel l dr essed as t he squi r e' s wi f e

and daught er s. I f ol l owed t he pr ocessi on i nt o chur ch, as

di d most of t he cr owd t hr ough whi ch t hey passed, one man

onl y r ef usi ng t o j oi n i n my hear i ng, on t he gr ound t hat he

had been al r eady t o one ser vi ce t oo many. He had got

mar r i ed t her e, hi s nei ghbour expl ai ned, and hi s wi f e was

i n t he pr ocessi on. The ser vi ce was shor t and wel l chosen,

wi t h a good, sound t en- mi nut es ser mon at t he end, and

t hen t he pr ocessi on r e- f or med, t he band st i l l l eadi ng, and

mar ched t o t ea i n t he bi g school r oom f aci ng t he chur chyar d.

" Schol ae el ymosynse Domi n?e Mar gar et t ae St r ode, f undat ae

1725, ad pauper es ej us sumpt i bus er udi endos, " I r ead over

t he door . I not i ce t hat t he Wel sh ar e r at her er i ven t o

Lat i n i nscr i pt i ons : can i t be i n t oken of def i ance t o

ver nacul ar Engl i sh %

Dur i ng t he t ea- hour I had t he pl easur e of expl or i ng

chur ch and chur chyar d, t he f or mer a l ar ge and f i ne

276 Vacat i on Rambl es

speci men of t he l at er per pendi cul ar , but cont ai ni ng r el i cs

of pai nt ed gl ass of a much ear l i er dat e, pr obabl y t hi r t eent h

cent ur y. Por t i ons of t hi s, of a f i ne st r aw- col our , t he

Rect or says, ar e i nval uabl e, t he ar t bei ng l ost . I wonder

what Mr . Powel l woul d say t o t hat 1 The chur chyar d i s

gl or i ous wi t h i t s yews, mor e t han t went y gr and t r ees, and

t he gr andf at her of t hem t he l ar gest but one, i f not t he

l ar gest , i n t he Ki ngdom. He measur es 29 f eet 6 i nches

r ound 6 f eet f r om t he gr ound, and i s conf i dent l y af f i r med by

Wel sh exper t s ( who have dul y not ed i t i n t he par i sh r egi st er )

t o be 1400 year s ol d. Wi t hout supposi ng t hat Mer l i n

r eposed i n hi s shade, one cannot l ook at hi m i n hi s gl or i ous

ol d age and doubt t hat he must have been a st out t r ee i n

Pl ant agenet t i mes, and f ur ni shed bow- st aves f or Wel shmen

who mar ched behi nd Fl uel l en t o t he Fr ench war s.

Pr esent l y t he band st r uck up agai n, and t he pr ocessi on

r et ur ned t o t he wi cket - gat e, t hr ough whi ch I now gai ned

an ent r ance on payment of I s. t owar ds t he cl ub f unds, one

of t he best i nvest ment s of t he ki nd I have ever made, f or

i nsi de i s t he most per f ect mi ni at ur e vi l l age gr een I shoul d

t hi nk i n t he wor l d, t ake i t al l i n al l . I t i s a nat ur al

t er r ace about one hundr ed yar ds l ong, by ( per haps) f or t y

br oad, on t he si de of t he st eep, f i nel y wooded hi l l , wi t h

t he st at i on down bel ow, and t he chur ch and vi l l age above.

The val l ey, whi ch r uns up i nt o t he Wel sh hi l l s t o t he west ,

i s her e nar r ow, wi t h a br i ght t r out - st r eam danci ng al ong

bet ween emer al d meadows out i nt o t he gr eat Cheshi r e

pl ai n, over whi ch, i n t he di st ance, r i se t he cat hedr al t ower s

Page 168 of 259

and t he cast l e and spi r es of Chest er . One can f ancy t he

hungr y eyes wi t h whi ch many a Wel shman has l ooked

over t hat spl endi d count r ysi de f r om t hi s per ch on t he hi l l -

si de when Hugh Lupus and hi s successor s wer e keepi ng

t he bor der , wi t h shor t shr i f t f or cat t l e- l i f t er s. I t i s wel l

wor t h t he whi l e of any of your r eader s who may be passi ng

Gr esf or d St at i on t hi s aut umn, t o st op over a t r ai n, and go

up and spend an hour t her e. But I must get back t o t he

l adi es' cl ub, who now, at 6 P. M. , opened t he t hr ee hour s'

dance on t he gr een, t he gr eat f eat ur e of t he gat her i ng. I t

Vacat i on Rambl es 277

began wi t h a count r y- dance, at whi ch we mal es coul d onl y-

gaze and admi r e. As bef or e, t he squi r e' s wi f e and t he seni or

member l ed of t ' , and went down t he t hi r t y or f or t y coupl es.

What wonder f ul women ar e t hese Wel sh ! I was f asci nat ed

by t he next seni or , a dear ol d soul , who had onl y mi ssed

t hi s dance t wi ce i n mor e t han si xt y year s, and was i n such

a hur r y t o get under way, t hat she st ar t ed bef or e t he

l eadi ng coupl e had got pr oper l y ahead, r at her t her eby

conf usi ng t he subsequent sal t at i ons. When t he musi c at

l ast st opped, she sat her sel f on a bench, a pi ct ur e of j oyous

ol d asr e, and decl ar ed t hat i f she had been a r i ch woman,

she shoul d have spent al l her subst ance i n keepi ng a band.

Af t er t he count r y- dance came pol kas, i n whi ch I not ed

t hat f or some t i me t he men, by way of r epr i sal s, I suppose,

danced t oget her ; but t hi s di d not l ast l ong, and pr esent l y

t he coupl es wer e sor t ed i n t he usual manner , and when

t he st at i on- bel l Avar ned me t o speed down t he hi l l , I l ef t

t hem al l as busy on t he gr een as t he el ves ( per haps) ma} -

be i n t he moonl i ght , or Pan' s t r oop i n t he days bef or e hi s

l ament ed decease. On my way home I mused on t he

cheer i ng evi dence t he day had af f or ded of t he heal t hy

pr ogr ess of t he gr eat t ask whi ch has been l ai d on t hi s

gener at i on, and whi ch i t seems t o be t aki ng hol d of so

st r enuousl y and hopef ul l y. I do not know t hat I ever

saw so ent i r el y sat i sf act or y a bl endi ng of al l cl asses i n

common enj oyment , w T hi ch t o some ext ent I at t r i but e t o

t he cust om of t he pr ocessi on, and t he sor t i ng of honor ar y

and r egul ar member s above not i ced. Dur i ng t he whol e

af t er noon I never hear d a wor d whi ch mi ght not have been

spoken i n a dr awi ng- r oom, and i n spi t e of t he r i gor ous

excl usi on of t obacco, t her e was no l ack of young men. I

quest i on whet her i t woul d be possi bl e t o see t he l i ke i n

any excl usi ve gat her i ng, ei t her of t he cl asses or t he masses.

The cl ub i s as pr osper ous f i nanci al l y, I am gl ad t o hear , as

i t i s soci al l y, havi ng a r eser ve f und of some 600, whi l e

t he s ubs c r i pt i ons ar e v er y moder at e. No doubt t he pol i t i c al

and i ndus t r i al at mos pher e i s dar k wi t h heav y c l ouds bot h

at home and abr oad ; but I do begi n t o t hi nk t hat t hi s

278 Vac at i on Rambl es

whi t e l i ni ng of a t r uer and f ul l er bl endi ng of our peopl e

t han has ev er been k nown bef or e i n Engl and, or any wher e

el s e, i s goi ng t o do mor e t han c ompens at e f or what ev er

t r oubl es may be i n s t or e f or us f r om war s or ot her

conv ul s i ons , and t hat we s hal l be i n t i me t o meet t hem as

a uni t ed peopl e.

Page 169 of 259

Then l et us pr ay t hat c ome i t may —

As c ome i t wi l l f or a' t hat

—

That man t o man, t he war l d o' er ,

Shal l br i t her s be f or a' t hat .

The " Vi c t or i a, " New Cut

Of al l t he heal t hy s i gns of r eal s oc i al pr ogr es s i n t hi s

r emar k abl e age, I k now of none mor e s t r i k i ng, or , I wi l l

add, mor e t hank wor t hy i n a s mal l way , t han t he c on-

t r as t of t he pr es ent c ondi t i on of t he bi g Peopl e' s Theat r e i n

Sout hwar k wi t h t hat whi c h mi ddl e- aged men c an r emember .

Pr obabl y many of my r eader s who i n t he f i f t i es and s i x t i es

hel d i t t o be par t of t he whol e dut y of man t o at t end t he

Uni v er s i t y boat - r ac e at Put ney , or t he Ox f or d and Cambr i dge

mat c h at Lor d' s , wi l l be abl e t o c al l up i n t hei r memor i es t he

" Vi c . " of t hos e day s . For my own par t , I al way s f el t t hat

t he bi g c os t er monger ' s t heat r e s uf f er ed unf ai r l y i n r eput at i on

— as many f ol k and pl ac es bef or e i t hav e done — f or t he

cas ual not i c e of a man of geni us . " Gi v e us t he Char t er , "

Char l es Ki ngs l ey mak es hi s t ai l or - her o ex c l ai m i n 1848,

" and we' l l s end wor k men i nt o Par l i ament who s hal l f i nd

out whet her s omet hi ng bet t er c an' t be put i n t he way of

t he boy s and gi r l s i n London who l i v e by t hef t and pr os t i -

t ut i on, t han t he t ender mer c i es of t he Vi c t or i a. " I do not

pr et end t o any t hi ng mor e t han a c as ual ac quai nt anc e wi t h

t he " Vi c . " i n t hos e day s ; but my memor y woul d not bear

out Par s on Lot i n denounc i ng i t as " a l i c ens ed pi t of dar k -

nes s . " That des c r i pt i on woul d f ar bet t er des i gnat e t he

Ci der Cel l ar s , t he Coal Hol e, and ot her f as hi onabl e r es or t s

Vac at i on Rambl es 279

on t he nor t h s i de of t he Thames , i n whi c h a wor k i ng man' s

f us t i an j ac k et and c or dur oy s wer e nev er s een. I s houl d

say t hat one ev eni ng s pent at Ev ans ' s i n t hos e day s , or at

t he moc k Cour t ( t he j udge and j ur y ) pr es i ded ov er by

Bar on Ni c hol s on, as t hat r ot und ol d c y ni c was c al l ed, woul d

hav e done any y oungs t er f ar mor e har m t han hal f a doz en

at t he " Vi c . " At t he one y ou mi ght s i t s mok i ng c i gar s

and dr i nk i ng c hampagne, i f y ou wer e f ool enough, and hear

ev er y t hi ng t hat was s ac r ed and dec ent s l i l y or openl y

r i di c ul ed and t r av es t i ed, i n t he c ompany of M. P. ' s , bar r i s t er s ,

and ot her s , al l wel l - dr es s ed peopl e. At t he " Vi c . " y ou

coul d r ub s houl der s wi t h c os t er s and l ongs hor emen, noi s y ,

r owdy , and pr one t o f i ght on t he s l i ght es t pr ov oc at i on,

whi l e t he ent er t ai nment was mor e t han c oar s e enough,

but qui t e f r ee f r om t he s ubt l e poi s on of a c r i m. - c on. t r i al

pr es i ded ov er by Bar on x s i c hol s on. Wi t h t hi s s av i ng,

howev er , I am bound t o admi t t hat t he ol d " Vi c . " was not

a pl ac e whi c h c oul d hav e been l ook ed on wi t hout s er i ous

mi s gi v i ngs by any one i n t he r emot es t degr ee r es pons i bl e

f or peac e or dec enc y i n Sout h London. The i nf l uenc e

whi c h i t ex er c i s ed, t o put i t mi l dl y , t hough undoubt edl y

power f ul , c oul d by no pos s i bi l i t y hav e had any el ev at i ng

ef f ec t on t he i nt el l ec t or mor al s of any human bei ng ; but

f or al l t hat , i t was al way s a f av our i t e pl ac e of r es or t , and

had a s t r ong hol d on t he dens e popul at i on who ear n a

Page 170 of 259

sc ant y and pr ec ar i ous l i v i ng i n t he New Cut and t he Ol d

Kent Road. How i t was t hat t he l eas e of t he ol d " Vi c , "

wi t h s ev ent een y ear s s t i l l t o r un, c ame i nt o t he mar k et

some ei ght y ear s bac k , I am not awar e ; but s o i t happened,

and i t was pur c has ed by a f i nanc i al Company , who, wi t h

t he bes t i nt ent i ons , embar k ed on t he r i s k y ex per i ment of

r unni ng t he " Roy al Vi c t or i a Hal l , " as i t was now c al l ed,

as a c of f ee- t av er n and pl ac e of ent er t ai nment , agai ns t t he

nei ghbour i ng mus i c - hal l s i n whi c h dr i nk was s ol d. I n

ei ght mont hs t he Company l os t

2800, and t he Vi c t or i a

was c l os ed, wi t h ev er y c hanc e of dr i f t i ng bac k , on t he nex t

change of owner s hi p, i nt o t he ol d r ut s . Happi l y f or Sout h

London, a bet t er f at e was i n s t or e f or t he " Vi c , " f or t her e

280 Vac at i on Rambl es

wer e t hos e who had ey es t o s ee i t s v al ue i f pr oper l y handl ed,

not , i ndeed, as a c ommer c i al s pec ul at i on, but as a power

f or l i f t i ng t he s oc i al l i f e of t he nei ghbour hood on t o a hi gher

l ev el . A c ommi t t ee was f or med, wi t h t he l at e Mr . Samuel

Mor l ey as c hai r man, and Mi s s Cons as honor ar y s ec r et ar y

and manager , a guar ant ee f und was r ai s ed, and t he Hal l

r eopened. I t has been a har d f i ght ; but wi t h a c hai r man

whos e s peec h i n t he dar k es t hour r ang, " We don' t mean t o

l et t hi s t hi ng f al l t o t he gr ound, " and a l ady of uns ur pas s ed

ex per i enc e and dev ot i on amongs t t he poor , whos e whol e

l i f e was f r om t he f i r s t f r eel y and l oy al l y gi v en t o t he wor k ,

t he f i el d has been won. I s ay del i ber at el y " won, " and i f

any one doubt s my wor d, l et hi m wal k ov er Wat er l oo

Br i dge any ev eni ng ( f or t he " Vi c . " i s al way s open) , and

l ook at t hi s t hi ng f ai r l y ; l et hi m go i nt o t he c of f ee- t av er n,

t he t heat r e, t he bi g bi l l i ar d and s mok i ng- r ooms , t he r eadi ng

and c l as s - r ooms at t he t op, and t he gy mnas i um i n t he bas e-

ment , and k eep hi s ear s and ey es wi de open al l t he t i me,

—

and t hen go home and t hank God t hat s uc h wor k i s goi ng

on i n t he v er y quar t er of our huge c i t y i n whi c h t he need

i s s or es t . I s ay , l et hi m go any ev eni ng, but f or c hoi c e I

woul d adv i s e a Tues day , f or on Tues day s t he " Penny

Sc i enc e Lec t ur es " ar e gi v en, whi c h ar e, of c our s e, l es s

popul ar t han t he v ar i et y ent er t ai nment s and t he bal l ad

conc er t s whi c h oc c ur whenev er t he f unds al l ow, or s ome

f i r s t - r at e ar t i s t , s uc h as Si ms Reev es , v ol unt eer s t o c ome

and s i ng t o t he New Cut . To r et ur n t o t he " Penny

Sc i enc e Lec t ur es , " t he wonder i s , not t hat emi nent men

shoul d be r eady t o go ov er t o Sout hwar k and gi v e t hem

wi t hout pay ment

— t hat not e of our day has bec ome t oo

common t o s ur pr i s e — but t hat an av er age of ov er f i v e

hundr ed, mos t l y of t he gami n age, f r om t he New Cut ,

shoul d be r eady t o pay t hei r penny and c ome, and l i s t en,

and appr ec i at e.

I t was on May Day t hat I v i s i t ed t he ol d " Vi c , " al mos t

by c hanc e, and wi t hout a not i on of what I was l i k el y t o

see or hear . The l ec t ur e was on " The Foundat i on- St ones

of London, " and pr ov ed t o be a geol ogi c al , not an ar c heeo-

Vac at i on Rambl es 281

l ogi c al one. Mr . H. Ki mber , M. P. f or t he nei ghbour i ng

di v i s i on of Sout h London, was i n t he c hai r , and t he l ec t ur er

Page 171 of 259

was Pr of essor Judd, F. R. S. , who, i n a cl ear , t er se addr ess,

ai ded by excel l ent di ssol vi ng vi ews pr oj ect ed by l i me- l i ght

on t he huge dr op- scene of t he st age, showed t he gr avel ,

cl ay, chal k, and l ower st r at a, wi t h t he f ossi l s f ound i n each,

wi t h admi r abl e cl ear ness. The bi g t heat r e was not , of

cour se, f ul l , but t her e was a l ar ge audi ence, qui t e up t o t he

aver age of upwar ds of f i ve hundr ed, and any one at al l used

t o such scenes coul d see how keenl y i nt er est ed t hey wer e,

and how qui ck t o sei ze t he l ect ur er ' s poi nt s. Most of t he

men wer e i n t hei r wor ki ng cl ot hes, but cl ean and br ushed

up, and no l ect ur er coul d have wi shed f or a bet t er audi ence.

The onl y t hi ng t hat br ought back t o my mi nd t he sl i ght est

r emembr ance of t he ol d " Vi c. " was, t hat by a cost er i n t he

cent r e of t he f r ont r ow of t he pi t sat a bi g br i ndl ed bul l -

t er r i er of t he t r ue f i ght i ng t ype. St r ange t o say, he

r emai ned l ooki ng at t he vi ews wi t h per f ect gr avi t y t i l l t he

l ect ur er made hi s bow, when he j umped qui et l y down at

once, and t r ot t ed about t he pi t t o f i nd f r i ends, as t hough

he had l ear ned al l he coul d, and want ed t o t al k i t over

wi t h pal s, but was not i nt er est ed i n t he f or mal vot e- of -

t hanks busi ness. On t he t hr ee f ol l owi ng Tuesdays, as t he

bi l l s i nf or med me, " The Moon, " " The Ci r cul at i on of t he

Bl ood, ' " ' and " The Backbone of Engl and, " wer e t he sub-

j ect s, al l , agai n, i l l ust r at ed by di ssol vi ng vi ews. And

t hese l ect ur es ar e kept up on ever y Tuesday, such speaker s

as t he Dean of West mi nst er , Si r John Lubbock, Pr of essor

Seel ey, t aki ng t hei r t ur n wi t h t he pur el y sci ent i f i c men,

and dr awi ng as good at t endances.

You must f i nd r oom f or one speci men of t he qui ck

humour of t hi s New Cut audi ence. Dr . Car pent er , i n one

of hi s exper i ment s, di spensed wi t h a pr i sm, expl ai ni ng t o

hi s audi ence t hat t he obj ect s woul d now appear i nver t ed,

and t hey must " put t hem r i ght way up " i n t hei r mi nds, —

" or st and on yer ' eds, " came t he pr ompt suggest i on f r om

t he gal l er y. Out of t hese l ect ur es sci ence- cl asses have

gr own i n t he l ast t hr ee year s, encour aged by a commi t t ee,

282 Vacat i on Rambl es

sel ect ed f r om t he Counci l , of some hundr ed l adi es and

gent l emen. Of t hese I have no space t o speak ; but one

f act wi l l i ndi cat e t he t hor oughness of t he wor k done at

t hem. Dr . Fl emi ng' s r epor t f or 1887 t el l s us t hat out of

f or t y st udent s who went i n f or exami nat i on i n t he sever al

cl asses, seven obt ai ned f i r st - cl ass, and ei ght een second- cl ass

cer t i f i cat es. I have onl y t ouched on what , af t er al l , i s an

out gr owt h, whi ch has devel oped nat ur al l y f r om t he or i gi nal

scheme, but was no par t of i t . Thi s was r at i onal and

hear t y and cl ean amusement . The Counci l wer e det er -

mi ned t o t est whet her an answer coul d not be f ound t o t he

st r ai ght quest i on of " Poor Pot l over " i n Punch : —

" Wher e' s t hi s cheap and r espect abl e f un

To be spot t ed by me ? Ther e' s t he ki nk !

Don' t dr i nk ? Al l ser ene, i f you' l l p' i nt me t o suni mat t hat ' s bet t er

t han dr i nk.

To t hat " summat " t he Vi ct or i a Hal l Counci l , al l honour

t o t hem, have poi nt ed wi t h qui t e encour agi ng success.

Ther e i s no depar t ment of t he Hal l whi ch i s not i n a heal t hy

condi t i on, and t he f act t hat

1800 was t ak en i n penni es

Page 172 of 259

and t wopenc es f or admi s s i ons dur i ng 1887, t hough t he Hal l

was c l os ed i n t he s ummer f or r epai r s , may wel l enc our age

t he Counc i l and t hei r dev ot ed manager t o t ak e c our age

and per s ev er e i n t hei r pr es ent ef f or t t o pur c has e t he f r ee-

hol d as a f i t t i ng memor i al t o Mr . Samuel Mor l ey . Ther e

was no par t of hi s wi de wor k of phi l ant hr opy whi c h t hat

f i ne ol d Engl i s h mer c hant v al ued mor e t han t hi s . He

suppor t ed i t l av i s hl y dur i ng hi s l i f e, and had he l i v ed t i l l

t he f r eehol d c ame i nt o t he mar k et , t her e woul d hav e been

l i t t l e di f f i c ul t y i n r ai s i ng t he nec es s ar y s um,

17, 000. Of

t hi s ,

3500 has al r eady been pr omi s ed by member s of t he

Counc i l , and 1 c annot bel i ev e t hat t he oppor t uni t y wi l l be

al l owed t o s l i p, and t he depos i t - money of

500 al r eady

pai d t o be f or f ei t ed. I t s eems t hat t he Char i t y Com-

mi s s i oner s hav e l et i t be k nown t hat t he ol d " Vi c . " wi l l be

ac c ept ed by t hem as one of t he Peopl e' s Pal ac es f or Sout h

London, i f t he f r eehol d c an onl y be obt ai ned ; and I c annot

Vac at i on Rambl es 283

f or a moment doubt t hat t hi s wi l l be done i f t he f ac t s ar e

onl y f ai r l y k nown. The t eet ot al er s ought t o do al l t hat

r emai ns t o be done, i n gr at i t ude f or t he bes t s t or y i n t hei r

qui v er , whi c h t hey owe t o t he " Vi c . " A s hor t meet i ng i s

hel d, c al l ed t he " Temper anc e Hour , " out s i de t he hous e on

Fr i day ni ght s , at whi c h wor k i ng men ar e t he s peak er s .

One of t hem, a c ar t er , s t uc k f as t at t he bot t om of a hi l l i n

t he s ubur bs one day . Anot her man who was pas s i ng,

unhi t c hed hi s own t eam and hel ped hi m up. On an of f er

t o pay bei ng made, t he good Samar i t an dec l ar ed he had

been pai d bef or ehand. " Why , I nev er s aw y ou bef or e i n

my l i f e, di d I ?" " I ' v e s een y ou, t hough, " s ai d t he ot her ;

" I hear d y ou s peak one ni ght out s i de t he ' Vi c . , ' and I

went i n and t ook t he pl edge — me and my f ami l y has been

happy ev er s i nc e ! "

Whi t by and t he Her r i ng Tr ade

30t h Augus t 1888.

" Any f r es h her r i ngs f or br eak f as t , s i r 1 Four a penny

t hi s mor ni ng, s i r ! " Suc h was my gr eet i ng t hi s day , as I

t ur ned out of my l odgi ngs f or an ear l y l ungs ' - f ul l of t hi s

i ns pi r i ng ai r . I had al mos t br ok en out on t hat f i s h- wi f e

wi t h, " Why , y ou abomi nabl e ol d woman, y ou as k ed me

t wopenc e f or t hr ee y es t er day " ; but r es t r ai ni ng my nat ur al ,

i f not r i ght eous i ndi gnat i on, I r epl i ed meek l y , " Four a

penny ! Why , what mak es t hem s o c heap, ma' am?"

" T' boat s al l f ul l

— ha' n' t had s ec h a c at c h t hi s s ummer , "

whi c h news gl addened me al mos t as muc h as i f t he c at c h

had been my own. No one c an wat c h t hes e gr and f el l ows ,

t he Dogger Bank f i s her men, and not f eel a s or t of bl ood-

r el at i ons hi p t o t hem, and t he k eenes t s y mpat hy wi t h t hei r

her oi c bus i nes s on t he gr eat wat er s . So, t hi nk s I , I ' l l go

down t o t he quay di r ec t l y af t er br eak f as t , and s ee t hem

al l at t hei r bes t , t hos e har d- handed, bi g- bear ded, s of t - hear t ed

sea- k i n° ; s f r om al l t he Eas t and Sout h Coas t t owns of

Engl and, f r om Sunder l and t o Penz anc e. When t hey ar e

Page 173 of 259

284 Vac at i on Rambl es

suc h gr and, s i l ent , k i ndl y c r eat ur es on ev er y day i n t he

week , ev en when t he c at c h has been poor and l i ght , what

wi l l t hey be t o- day 1

I had s pent mos t of my mor ni ngs f or s ome day s on t he

quay , wat c hi ng t he f i s h- mar k et t her e wi t h muc h i nt er es t .

I t goes on near l y al l t he f or enoon on t he pav ement , j us t

abov e t hat par t of t he har bour - wal l t o whi c h t he her r i ng-

boat s r un when t hey c ome i n f r om t hei r ni ght ' s wor k on

t he Dogger Bank . A s i mpl e, hand- t o- mout h k i nd of

bus i nes s , t he auc t i on ; but wel l adapt ed, at any r at e, t o

cl ear t he boat s , and get t hei r dai l y c ont ent s t o mar k et i n

t he qui c k es t and c heapes t way . As s oon as a boat c omes

t o t he quay , one of t he c r ew ( gener al l y number i ng f i v e

men, or f our men and a boy ) c omes on s hor e wi t h a bas k et

hal f - f ul l of her r i ngs , and t ur ns t hem out on t he pav ement .

The f i s h- br ok er who ac t s f or t hat boat c omes up, l ook s at

t he s ampl e, aud mak es an of f er f or t he s hi p' s t ak e by " t he

l as t , " or t en t hous and. I f t hi s i s ac c ept ed, t he unl oadi ng

begi ns at onc e ; but i f not , as i s of t enes t t he c as e, t he t ak e

i s put up t o auc t i on. The br ok er r i ngs a bel l , whi c h s oon

br i ngs r ound hi m t he s ev en or ei ght ot her br ok er s l i k e

hi ms el f , and ot her buy er s ( i f any ) who ar e wi t hi n hear i ng.

Up goes t he f i r s t l as t of t en t hous and at onc e, and no t i me

i s l os t or t al k t hr own away . I n v er y f ew mi nut es t he

whol e i s s ol d, and a c ar t or l or r y f r om t he r ai l way i s

st andi ng by t o c ar r y of f t he bar r el s i n whi c h t he her r i ngs

ar e pac k ed t hen and t her e. Now, on t he pr ev i ous day

I had hear d t he pr i c es r angi ng f r om

7: 10s . t o

8 f or

" t he l as t , " and had not r emar k ed t hat onl y s ome s i x boat s

of t he whol e f l eet had c ome bac k f r om t he f i s hi ni i - i r r ounds ,

and t hat none of t hes e had made any t hi ng l i k e a bi g c at c h.

Cons equent l y , I c ame down pr epar ed t o hear s omet hi ng

l i k e t he s ame pr i c es r ul i ng, and t o s ee mos t of t he c r ews

dr awi ng at l eas t f r om

15 t o

20 f or t hei r ni ght ' s wor k .

Wel l , i n a l ong l i f e I don' t r emember ev er t o hav e been

mor e hopel es s l y wr ong or unpl eas ant l y s ur pr i s ed. I c oul d

see at onc e t hat al l was not r i ght by t he f ac es of t he men

and women i n t he s mal l gr oups s c at t er ed about t he mar k et ,

Vac at i on Rambl es 285

whi c h now dr ew t oget her as t he br ok er ' s bel l r ang f or t he

sal e of t he her r i ngs , whi c h l ay , a l ov et y , gl eami ng mas s , at

l eas t t hr ee f eet deep i n t he unc ov er ed hol d of t he Mar y

Jane, as s he r oc k ed gent l y on t he har bour s wel l , s ome

t went y f eet down bel ow us . I c oul d s c ar c el y bel i ev e my

ear s as I hear d t he bi ds s l owl y r i s i ng by 5s . at a t i me t i l l

t hey r eac hed 30s . t he l as t , and t her e s t opped dead. The

hammer f el l , and t he whol e c at c h of t he Mar y J ane

pas s ed t o t he pur c has er i n about t wo mi nut es at t hat

f i gur e. The nex t boat , and nex t but one, di d no bet t er .

Br ok er af t er br ok er k noc k ed hi s c l i ent ' s c at c h down at 30s .

Onc e onl y I hear d an adv anc e on t hat f i gur e, and t hi s

was by pr i v at e c ont r ac t . The hands ome Her c ul es , i n l ong

l eat her boot s and bl ue j er s ey , who r epr es ent ed one of t he

Whi t by boat s , appeal ed i n my hear i ng t o t he br ok er , who

r el ent ed wi t h no v er y good gr ac e, and agr eed t o gi v e

2

Page 174 of 259

per l as t of t en t hous and of t he c at c h of Her c ul es ' s boat .

I t was a depr es s i ng s i ght , I mus t own, ev en i n t he br i ght

suns hi ne of t hi s mos t pi c t ur es que of Engl i s h har bour s , and

Sam Wel l er ' s ear nes t i nqui r y t o hi s mas t er , " Ai n' t s ome-

body t o be wopped f or t hi s 1 " r os e v i v i dl y i n my mi nd as

t he f i t t es t c omment on t he whol e bus i nes s . J us t t hen a

t ug whi c h had been get t i ng up s t eam was r eady t o l eav e

t he har bour , and t wo Har t l epool s mac k s , whos e f r ei ght s of

her r i ngs wer e s t i l l uns ol d, hi t c hed on, t o be t owed out t o

sea and t hen r un home, i n t he hope of f i ndi ng a bet t er

mar k et i n t he Dur ham por t . An ol d s al t s t ood nex t me,

whos e f i s hi ng day s wer e wel l ov er , and who had j us t t ak en

a good bi t e of t he bl ac k es t k i nd of pi gt ai l t o c omf or t

hi ms el f . I l ook ed i nqui r i ngl y at hi m as t he t ug s t eamed

out bet ween t he t wo l i ght hous es , wi t h t he s mac k s i n t ow ;

but he s hook hi s head s or r owf ul l y . " Wel l , but t hey c an' t

do wor s e t han her e, " I r emons t r at ed; " her r i ngs may be

sc ar c er i n t he c ol l i er y di s t r i c t . " He j er k ed hi s head

t owar ds t he l i t t l e gr oup of br ok er s and buy er s ,

— " They ' d

know t he pr i c es at Har t l epool i n f i v e mi nut es , " he s ai d.

Thi s t el egr aphi ng was t o hi s mi nd t he wor s t t hi ng t hat

had happened f or f i s her men i n hi s t i me. " Di d pr i c es

286 Vac at i on Rambl es

of t en go up and down l i k e t hi s ? " I as k ed. " Yes , " and

wor s e t han t hi s . He had k nown t hem as l ow as 15s . and

as hi gh as

15 wi t hi n a f ew day s . No, he c oul dn' t s ee

what was " t o odds i t " muc h f or t he bet t er . Las t t i me

he was ac r os s at Li v er pool he had s t opped at a bi g f i s h-

shop wher e he s aw bar r el s s t andi ng whi c h he r ec ogni s ed.

" What ' s t he pr i c e of t hos e her r i ngs 1- " he as k ed. " Ei ght

f or Gd. " t he man ans wer ed. " So I t ol d hi m I s aw t hey

was f r om Whi t by , and t hat he got t hem at Whi t by f or

6d. a hundr ed. "

Whi t by and t he Her r i ng Tr ade.

31s / Augus t 1888.

I had got t hus f ar l as t ni ght , and pos t ed down agai n

ear l y t hi s mor ni ng t o t he mar k et , whi c h has a s ombr e k i nd

of at t r ac t i on f or me. Onl y t wo boat s i n, wi t h l i ght c at c hes

of f r om one and a hal f t o t wo l as t s eac h. The f i r s t s ol d

at

5 : 5s . , whi c h pr i c e t he s ec ond boat r ef us ed. Thei r s

wer e a f i r s t - r at e l ot , and t hey s houl dn' t go under

6, f or

whi c h t hey wer e hol di ng out when I had t o l eav e, and

t her e s eemed t o be a gener al bel i ef t hat t hey woul d get i t .

Thi s was puz z l e enough f or any man, t o s ee under hi s own

ey es t he s ame f i s h s ol d on t hr ee c ons ec ut i v e s ummer day s

f or

7 : 10s . ,

1 : 10s . , and

5 : 5s . !

— a s or t of t hi ng no f el l ow

can under s t and. To add t o my bewi l der ment , I l ear nt

t hat at Gr eat Gr i ms by y es t er day ( t he

1 : 10s . day her e)

t he l as t had s ol d f or upwar ds of

15 ! So t hat my ol d

sal t ' s v i ew as t o t he t el egr aph does n' t qui t e hol d wat er ,

and t he t wo s mac k s whi c h s hook t he wat er of f t hei r bows

and s ai l ed f or Har t l epool , may hav e made a good day ' s

wor k of i t , af t er al l . I ndeed, a s ai l or on t he quay dec l ar ed

t hat t hey had s ol d at

5, s o t hat , af t er pay i ng

2 api ec e

f or t he t ug, whi c h had t owed t hem al l t he way , t hey s t i l l

got

3 a l as t , or doubl e t he pr i c e t hey woul d hav e r eal i s ed

at Whi t by . " So i t c omes t o t hi s , t hat t he mor e f i s h y ou

Page 175 of 259

cat c h, t he l es s pay y ou get , " I s ai d t o my i nf or mant .

" Yes , " he s eemed t o t hi nk t hat was mos t l y t he c as e,

Vac at i on Rambl es 287

addi ng t hat t o hi s mi nd i t was t he r ai l way s t hat made al l

t he money out of f i s h —

Si c v os non v obi s mel l i f i c at i s apes .

I t i s an ol d s t or y enough, but s c ar c el y l es s t r ue or s ad

i n 1888 t han when mos t of t he wor l d' s har des t wor k was

done by s l av es . Howev er t her e ar e, happi l y , s i gns i n t he

ai r t hat , her e i n Engl and at any r at e, we ar e wak i ng up t o

t he t r ut h, t hat i f we c an f i nd no bet t er way of or gani s i ng

i ndus t r y t han c ompet i t i on r un mad, we ar e goi ng t o hav e

r eal bad t i mes . Roy al Commi s s i ons on t he s weat i ng

sy s t em ; Toy nbee Hal l i nt er v ent i ons i n gr eat s t r i k es ;

co- oper at i v e ef f or t s pr i ngi ng up al l ov er t he c ount r y , and

f i ndi ng i t s mos t z eal ous and dev ot ed adv oc at es at l eas t as

muc h amongs t t hos e who don' t wor k wi t h t hei r hands as

t hos e who do,

— al l go t o pr ov e t hat t he r ei gn of k i ng

l ai s s ez f ai r e, wi t h hi s gol den r ul e of " c as h pay ment t he s ol e

nex us bet ween man and man, " i s ov er . I ndeed, our danger

may s oon be f r om t oo muc h meddl i ng wi t h and mot her i ng

i ndus t r y . Nev er t hel es s , no one c an s pend a f ew hour s on

t he quay her e i n t he her r i ng s eas on and not l ong f or s ome

one — s c hol ar , phi l ant hr opi s t , pol i t i c al ec onomi s t ( new s t y l e) ,

co- oper at or — t o c ome al ong and t eac h t hes e f i ne f el l ows t o

r ead t hei r s phi nx r i ddl e. I t woul d not be, s ur el y , s uc h a

di f f i c ul t t as k as i t l ook s at f i r s t s i ght . Ther e i s no need t o

begi n wi t h t he v as t her r i ng- f i s hi ng i ndus t r y , wi t h i t s di s t ant

mar k et s at Bi l l i ngs gat e, Li v er pool , and Manc hes t er . The

r ef or m mi s di t be° ; i n at onc e on a modes t s c al e. Bes i de t he

her r i ngs , one s ees ev er y mor ni ng ot her f i s h l y i ng on t he

quay — s k at e, c od, l i ng, whi t i ng, r oc k - s al mon — br ought i n

by t he s mal l er and l es s v ent ur es ome boat s by doz ens , not

by l as t s of t en t hous and. Tak e t he c od as t he mos t

val uabl e of t hes e f i s h. I s aw f our f i ne c od- f i s h s ol d by

auc t i on y es t er day on t he quay f or 5s . 3d. Wi t hi n a f ew

hundr ed y ar ds , and al l ov er t he t own, c od was s el l i ng at t he

shops at 6d. t he pound. Sur el y a v er y moder at e amount

of or gani s i ng abi l i t y woul d enabl e t hos e who c at c h t hes e f i s h

t o get t he r et ai l pr i c es pr ev ai l i ng on t he s ame day i n t he

288 Vac at i on Rambl es

home mar k et , and t hen t he ex per i enc e gai ned mi ght as s i s t

mat er i al l y i n t he s ol ut i on of t he l ar ger pr obl em.

Meant i me, bes i des t he al mos t uni que i nt er es t and

beaut y of i t s s ur r oundi ngs ,

— t he s t eep c l i f f s , on whi c h t he

quai nt ol d r ed- r oof ed hous es , wi t h t hei r wooden bal c oni es ,

ar e pi l ed i n mos t pi c t ur es que and unac c ount abl e gr oups ;

t he gr and ol d abbey r ui n l ook i ng c l own f r om t he hi ghes t

Page 176 of 259

poi nt ; t he swi ng- br i dge bet ween t he t wo har bour s, and

t he est uar y beyond, r unni ng up i nt o a f i ne amphi t heat r e

of gr een meadow and dar k wood, dot t ed wi t h vi l l age

chur ches and ol d wi ndmi l l s, and backed by t he hi gh

moor s, — t her e i s a j oyous si de t o Whi t by har bour , even on

days when t he mar ket goes most agai nst t he Dogger Bank

f i sher men. I f t he f at her s have t oo of t en t o eat sour

gr apes, t hei r chi l dr en' s t eet h ar e' not set on edge, — such

mer r y, wel l - f ed, bar e- f oot ed ur chi ns of bot h sexes I never

r emember t o have seen el sewher e. They swar m, out of

school hour s, al ong t he quays ; ski m up and down t he wat er -

wor n har bour - wal l s wher ever t her e i s a r ope hangi ng ; r un

over t he her r i ng boat s l yi ng si de by si de, as soon as t he

f r ei ght s ar e cl ear ed ; and t oboggan down t he boat sl i des

at t he gangways, dr aggi ng t hemsel ves al ong on t hei r

st omachs when t hese ar e not sl i pper y enough f or t he usual

met hod of descent . Ther e seems, t oo, t o be a l ar ge suppl y

of ol d r i cket y t ubs kept f or t hei r speci al use ; ' f or al l day

l ong you see t wo or t hr ee of t hem scr ambl i ng i nt o one of

t hese, and scul l i ng about t he har bour , no man hi nder i ng

or appar ent l y not i ci ng t hem. Fi ner t r ai ni ng f or t hei r

f ut ur e l i f e woul d be har d t o f i nd, and one cannot hel p

doubt i ng as one sees t hei r st r ai ght t oes, as handy al most

as f i nger s i n t hei r cl i mbi ng f eat s, whet her t he l ast wor d

has been spoken as t o cl ot hi ng t he human f oot , at any

r at e up t o t he age of t en or t wel ve. I t i s not of t en,

I t hi nk, t hat one comes on ear l y sur r oundi ngs and

her oes ent i r el y sui t ed t o each ot her ; but Whi t by' s her o

— pat r on sai nt I had near l y cal l ed hi m — coul d have

f ound no such sui t abl e pl ace t o have been r ai sed i n al l t he

wor l d r ound. James Cook was bor n i n a nei ghbour i ng

Vacat i on Rambl es 289

vi l l age, but f i r st appr ent i ced on boar d a Whi t by col l i er ,

and t o t he l ast days of hi s l i f e r et ai ned a most l ovi ng r e-

membr ance of t he ol d t own. Ever y one of hi s f amous shi ps,

t he Endeavour , t he Resol ut i on, and t he Di scover y, wer e bui l t

at Whi t by. The house of hi s mast er , Mr . Wal ker , wi t h

whom he l i ved dur i ng hi s appr ent i ceshi p as a sai l or l ad,

and t o whom most of hi s l et t er s wer e wr i t t en af t er he

had mapped t he Quebec r eaches of t he St . Lawr ence

under t he f i r e of t he Fr ench guns, and was a gol d-

medal l i st of t he Royal Soci et y and t he most f amous of

ei ght eent h cent ur y navi gat or s, i s st i l l f ondl y poi nt ed out

i n a nar r ow st r eet r unni ng down t o t he i nner har bour .

Sunday by t he Sea

Whi t by, 7t h Sept ember 1888.

We saw somet hi ng of t he i ndust r i al l i f e of Whi t by

l ast week. The spi r i t ual i s qui t e as i nt er est i ng, and

cer t ai nl y, so f ar as my obser vat i on goes, has a char act er

of i t s own, di st i nct f r om t hat of any ot her of our popul ar

seasi de r esor t s. I t may be t he pr esence of so l ar ge a sea-

goi ng el ement ; at any r at e, unl ess appear ances ar e qui t e

mi sl eadi ng, t her e i s an ear nest and deep t hough qui et

r el i gi ous i mpul se wor ki ng amongst t he har bour - f ol k and

t ownspeopl e, not wi t hout i t s i nf l uence i n t he new quar t er

Page 177 of 259

whi ch has gr own on t o t he ol d t own, and wi t h i t s casi no

and l ar ge cr i cket and l awn t enni s gr ounds, i s becomi ng a

popul ar — t hough, happi l y, not a f ashi onabl e — summer

r esor t . Thi s i s, of cour se, most appar ent on Sundays, on

whi ch t he absence of anyt hi ng l i ke t he annoyances, bot h

r el i gi ous and secul ar , whi ch spoi l t he day of r est at so

many heal t h- r esor t s, i s ver y not ewor t hy. Not t hat

Whi t by i s wi t hout i t s open- ai r ser vi ces. On t he cont r ar y,

t hey ar e at l east as f r equent as el sewher e, on quays,

shor e, cl i f f s ; but af t er wat chi ng t hem wi t h some car e I

do not r emember anyt hi ng f anat i cal or st ar t l i ng, or i n t he

bad t ast e of coar se f ami l i ar i t y wi t h myst er i es whi ch so

U

290 Vacat i on Rambl es

of t en r evol t s one i n st r eet and f i el d pr eachi ng el sewher e.

One of t hese I had never seen t he l i ke of bef or e, and am

i ncl i ned t o t hi nk i t may i nt er est your r eader s. On my

f i r st Sunday af t er noon I was wat chi ng a cr owded ser vi ce

on t he quay, at t he f oot of t he West Cl i f f , f r om above.

As i t ended, and began t o di sper se, a man i n sai l or ' s

Sunday sui t of t hi ck bl ue cl ot h sever ed hi msel f f r om t he

cr owd, and came l ei sur el y up t he st one st eps, wi t h a Bi bl e

and hymn- book i n hi s hand. At t he t op of t he st eps i s a

publ i c gr ass- pl ot , some t hi r t y by t went y yar ds i n si ze,

t he onl y par t of t he sea- f r ont whi ch has escaped encl osur e

on t hi s cl i f f . Round i t ar e some f i f t een or si xt een benches,

ver y popul ar wi t h t hose who wi l l not pay t o go i nt o t he

casi no encl osur e. They wer e al l occupi ed by peopl e

chat t i ng, smoki ng, cour t i ng, l ooki ng at t he vi ew, when

t he new- comer wal ked i nt o t he mi ddl e of t he pl ot , t ook

of f hi s f ur - t r i mmed sai l or ' s cap, opened hi s Bi bl e, and

l ooked r ound. He was good t o l ook at , wi t h hi s st r ong,

weat her - beat en, br onzed f eat ur es, shor t - cr opped, gr i zzl ed

hai r , and ki ndl y bl ue eye, par t - owner and best man i n

one of t he Penzance boat s, I hear d. On l ooki ng at hi m,

passages i n t he l i ves of Dr ake and Hawki ns, and Wesl ey

and Whi t f i el d, and Char l es Ki ngsl ey' s l ovi ng ent husi asm

f or t he Cor ni sh sai l or - f ol k, became cl ear er t o me. Not a

soul not i ced hi m or moved f r om t hei r seat s, and t he

t al ki ng, smoki ng, cour t i ng went on j ust as t hough he wer e

not t her e, st andi ng al one on t he gr ass, Bi bl e i n hand. I

qui t e expect ed t o see hi m shut hi s book and depar t . Not

a bi t of i t . Cl ear l y he had come up t her e t o del i ver hi s

t est i mony. That was hi s busi ness ; whet her any one

chose t o l i st en t o i t or not , was t hei r s. So he r ead out

t wo or t hr ee ver ses f r om t he Epi st l e t o t he Romans, and

began t o pr each. Hi s subj ect was Paul ' s conver si on,

whi ch he descr i bed al most ent i r el y i n St . Luke' s and t he

Apost l e' s own wor ds, whi ch he quot ed wi t hout r ef er r i ng

t o hi s Bi bl e, and t hen ur ged r oughl y, but wi t h an

ear nest ness whi ch made hi s speech r eal l y el oquent , t hat t he

same chance was open t o ever y one. He hi msel f had

Vacat i on Rambl es 291

Page 178 of 259

hear d t he cal l t hi r t y year s ago, and had been happy ever

si nce. He had been i n per i l of deat h agai n and agai n

si nce t hen, had seen boat s f ounder wi t h al l hands, but

had no f ear , nor need any man have, by sea or l and, who

woul d j ust hear and f ol l ow t hat cal l . Then he st opped,

wi ped hi s br ow, and l ooked r ound. The si t t er s had al l

become si l ent , but not a soul of t hem moved or spoke. I

was st andi ng, wi t h one or t wo ot her s, behi nd t he hi gh

l ' ai l s of t he encl osur e, or I t hi nk we shoul d have gone and

st ood by hi m as he gave out a hymn ; but we knew

nei t her wor ds nor t une, so wer e hel pl ess. He sang i t

t hr ough by hi msel f , made a shor t pr ayer " t hat t he wor d

t hat day mi ght not have been spoken i n vai n, " and t hen

put on hi s cap, and went down t he st eps i nt o t he cr owd

bel ow. One voi ce f r om t he benches sai d " Thank you ! "

as he l ef t t he pl ot .

The next ser vi ce I came acr oss was a st r ange cont r ast .

Under t he cl i f f , i n f r ont of t he Uni on Jack pl ant ed i n t he

sands, was a l ar ge gat her i ng, composed most l y of chi l dr en

si t t i ng i n r ows, wi t h mot her s and nur ses i nt er sper sed, and

a number of men and women st andi ng r ound t he ci r cl e.

As I came up, I was handed a l eaf l et of hymns, whi ch

expl ai ned t hat i t was a gat her i ng of t he " Chi l dr en' s

Speci al Ser vi ce Mi ssi on, " whi ch has i t s head- quar t er s, i t

seems, i n London, and i s pr esi ded over by Mr . St uar t , t he

vi car of St . James' s, Hol l oway. The ser vi ce was con-

duct ed by a young man not i n or der s, wi t h a st r ong choi r

t o hel p hi m. He, t oo, di d hi s pr eachi ng ear nest l y and

wel l ; and t hough i t seemed t o me above t he younger

chi l dr en' s heads, who f or t he most par t made sand- cast l es

or mud- pi es f ur t i vel y, was evi dent l y l i st ened t o sym-

pat het i cal l y by t he el der par t of t he audi ence who st ood

r ound. But i f t he t eachi ng scar cel y t ouched t he chi l dr en,

t hey al l l ef t t hei r mud- pi es and enj oyed t he si ngi ng.

The Mi ssi on, I was t ol d, hol ds t hese ser vi ces on t he sands

t hr ough t he seasi de season, at al l t he chi ef r esor t s on t he

coast . The l eader s and or gani ser s ar e most l y young men

and women, and al l , I bel i eve, vol unt eer s. A not e-

292 Vacat i on Rambl es

wor t hy si gn of our t i me t he Mi ssi on seemed t o me, and I

was gl ad t o hear t hat i t i s count enanced, i f not act i vel y

suppor t ed, by t he r esi dent Chur ch cl er gy.

I f we t ur n f r om t he vol unt eer t o t he r egul ar si de of

Chur ch wor k, Whi t by st i l l has an al most uni que at t r ac -

t i on f or t he st udent of t he r el i gi ous movement i n Engl and.

The l at e Dean St anl ey, who l oved ever y phase of t he

hi st or i cal devel opment of t he l i f e of t he Nat i onal Chur ch,

and mour ned over t he t hor oughness of r ecent r est or a-

t i ons, whi ch, as he t hought , t hr eat en t he ent i r e di sappear -

ance of t he sur r oundi ngs and f or ms of t he wor shi p of t he

Geor gi an er a, woul d have t hanked God and t aken cour age

i f he coul d have vi si t ed Whi t by Par i sh Chur ch i n 1888,

f or chur ch and ser vi ce ar e a per f ect sur vi val . The wave

of Vi ct or i an eccl esi ast i cal r ef or m, wi t hout dest r oyi ng

anyt hi ng, seems t o have gent l y r emoved al l t hat was

r eal l y obj ect i onabl e, and br eat hed new l i f e i nt o t he dr y

Page 179 of 259

bones of Geor gi an wor shi p. I am not sur e t hat I shoul d

say " ever yt hi ng obj ect i onabl e, " f or pr obabl y t he vast

maj or i t y of even t r ul y Cat hol i c chur ch- goer s woul d not

agr ee as t o t he bi g shi el d wi t h t he nat i onal ar ms whi ch

hangs over t he cent r e of t he chancel ar ch, di vi di ng t he

t wo t abl es of t he Ten Commandment s. I am pr epar ed

t o admi t t hat t hi s par t i cul ar l i on and uni cor n ar e not

good speci mens of di scr eet beast s of t hei r r espect i ve

ki nds. But even as t hey st and t hey ar e nat i onal sym-

bol s, and no r emi nder t hat Chur ch and nat i on ar e st i l l

one can be spar ed nowadays ; and t hey ar e not hal f so

gr ot esque as most of t he gur goyl es you wi l l see i n t he

nobl est Got hi c cat hedr al s. And t hen t hey vi vi dl y r e-

mi nd my gener at i on of t he days when t hey f i r st t oddl ed

t o chur ch i n t he f ami l y pr ocessi on. The chur ch i t sel f i s

a gem, t hough wi t h no or t hodox ar chi t ect ur al beaut y, f or

i t r et ai ns t r aces of t he handi wor k of t hi r t y gener at i ons i n

i t s wal l s, pi l l ar s, gal l er i es, and st unt ed squar e t ower , —

f r om t he r ound ar ches ( t her e ar e st i l l t wo, t hough t he

best , a f i ne Nor man wi ndow, has been br i cked up) of i t s

ear l i est bui l der s i n t he t wel f t h, t o t he whi t e- washed wal l s

Vacat i on Rambl es 293

and cei l i ngs and squar e- paned wi ndows of ei ght eent h

cent ur y chur chwar dens. I shoul d t hi nk t he t hr ee- decker

( I am obl i ged t o use t he pr of ane name, havi ng f or got t en

t he cor r ect one) , t he cl er k' s desk, r eadi ng- desk, and pul pi t

r i si ng one above t he ot her i n f r ont of t he chancel , must

be uni que, t he l ast of i t s r ace. The cl er k has, i ndeed,

r et i r ed i nt o t he choi r ; but t he r ect or st i l l r eads t he

pr ayer s and l essons admi r abl y f r om hi s desk, and ascends

t he pul pi t , wher e he i s on a l evel wi t h t he f acul t y pew of

t he squi r e, and t he l ow gal l er i es, t o del i ver hi s excel l ent

shor t di scour ses. Long may he and hi s successor s do so.

One i s onl y i ncl i ned t o r egr et t hat he does not t ake of f

hi s sur pl i ce i n t he r eadi ng- desk, and ascend t o pr each i n

hi s bl ack gown. Cur i ous i t i s t o r emember t hat l ess

t han t hi r t y year s ago Br yan Ki ng and ot her s exci t ed

r i ot s i n many par i shes by pr eachi ng i n t he sur pl i ce. The

pews on t he f l oor ar e al l hi gh oaken boxes wi t h door s,

t hough t he gr eat maj or i t y of t hem ar e now f r ee. The

vi si t or i n br oadcl ot h i s put i nt o one of t he l ar ger ones,

l i ned wi t h vener abl e bai ze, once gr een. These ar e some-

what nar r ow par al l el ogr ams wi t h seat s r ound t he t hr ee

si des, so t hat i t r equi r es caut i on i n kneel i ng t o avoi d

col l i si on wi t h your opposi t e nei ghbour . And t he body

of t he chur ch bei ng near l y squar e by r eason of t he addi -

t i on of si de ai sl es at di f f er ent per i ods, and t he " t hr ee-

decker " wel l out on t he f l oor , t he pews have been pl anned

so t hat t hey al l f ace t owar ds i t , and consequent l y al l t he

congr egat i on can see each ot her . Thi s i s supposed t o be

a dr awback t o wor shi p ; pr obabl y i s — must be, wher e

peopl e have been al ways used t o l ooki ng al l one way.

That i t r eal l y hi nder s a hear t y ser vi ce, no one woul d

mai nt ai n who has at t ended one i n Whi t by Par i sh Chur ch.

I t was qui t e f ul l , when I was t her e, of a congr egat i on

l ar gel y composed of men, and t he maj or i t y of t hese

sai l or s and ot her wor ki ng f ol k. Let any r eader who st i l l

goes t o chur ch make a poi nt of ascendi ng t he 190 st one

st eps whi ch l ead up t o i t f r om t he ol d t own, and l ooki ng

at t he mat t er wi t h hi s own eyes, i f ever he shoul d be

Page 180 of 259

294 Vacat i on Rambl es

wi t hi n r each. The r ect or i s a sor t of successor t o t he ol d

abbot s of St . Hi l da, wi t h eccl esi ast i cal j ur i sdi ct i on over

t he whol e t own, wher ei n ar e f i ve or si x chur ches wor ked

by cur at es, al l i n t he moder n st yl e, seat s f aci ng east war d,

no t hr ee- decker s, sur pl i ced choi r s, and chant ed psal ms,

and cant i cl es. I ndeed, i n one pl ace of wor shi p, t hose

who have a t ast e f or gabbl ed pr ayer s, bowi ngs and pos -

t ur i ngs, l i ght ed candl es, and t he r est of t he most moder n

r i t ual , can f i nd i t , but i n a pr opr i et ar y chapel not under

t he j ur i sdi ct i on of t he r ect or .

Si ngi ng- Mat ches i n Wessex

28t h Sept ember 1888.

I r emember , si r , t hat some quar t er of a cent ur y ago,

you wer e i nt er est ed i n t he popul ar songs of our Engl i sh

count r y- f ol k, and so may possi bl y t hi nk gl eani ngs i n t hi s

f i el d st i l l wor t hy of not i ce. I n t hat bel i ef , I send t hi s

not e of some " si ngi ng- mat ches, " whi ch, by a l ucky

chance, I was abl e t o at t end l ast week i n West Ber ks.

The mat ches i n quest i on wer e f or bot h men and women,

a pr i ze of hal f a cr own bei ng of f er ed i n each case. The

occasi on was t he vi l l age " veast , " or annual commemor a-

t i on of t he dedi cat i on of t he par i sh chur ch, st i l l t he

i mmemor i al day of gat her i ng and soci al r euni on i n ever y

haml et of t hi s out - of - t he- way di st r i ct . I was gl ad t o f i nd

t he ol d wor d st i l l i n use, f or as a Wessex man i t woul d

have been an unpl easant shock t o me t o f i nd t he " veast "

super seded by a " f est i val , " habi t at i on, or ot her moder n

gat her i ng. I n some r espect s, however , I must own t hat

t he char act er of t he " veast " has changed; t hese si ngi ng-

mat ches, f or i nst ance, bei ng a compl et e novel t y t o me.

Ther e used t o be si ngi ng enough af t er t he spor t s, as t he

sun went down, and chor uses, r ol l i cki ng and sent i ment al ,

came r ol l i ng out of t he publ i cans' boot hs — f or t he most

par t of dubi ous char act er — but si ngi ng- mat ches f or pr i zes

I never r emember . I suppose t he cr aze f or compet i t i ve

exami nat i on i n ever y depar t ment of l i f e may account f or

Vacat i on Rambl es 295

t hi s new devel opment ; anyhow, t her e wer e t he mat ches

t o come of f — so t he bi l l s assur ed us — i n t he vi l l age

school r oom, of al l pl aces, whi ch was t hr own open f or t hi s

pur pose, and f or danci ng, at sunset . Hi t her , t hen, I r e-

pai r ed f r om t he vi car ' s f i el ds, wher e t he spor t s had been

hel d, i n t he wake of a number of r ust i c coupl es and

t of f ee- sucki ng chi l dr en. The school i s a l of t y r oom, f i f t y

f eet l ong, wi t h a smal l er cl ass- r oom as t r ansept at t he

upper end, al ong whi ch r an a t empor ar y pl at f or m. Upon

t hi s t he Far r i ngdon Bl ue- Ri bbon Band, i n neat uni f or ms,

wer e al r eady pl ayi ng a vi gor ous pol ka. Pr esent l y t hi s

f i r st dance ended, t he band st ood back, and t he t hr ee

j udges comi ng t o t he f r ont , announced t he t er ms of t he

compet i t i on, t he men t o begi n, and a dance t o be i nt er -

pol at ed af t er ever y t wo songs, ever y si nger , one at a

t i me, t o come up on t he pl at f or m. Ther e was no hesi t a-

Page 181 of 259

t i on amongst t he si nger s, t he f i r st of whom st epped up at

once, and so t he mat ches went on, t wo songs and a dance

al t er nat el y, unt i l al l who car ed t o compet e had sung.

Then, at about 9 P. M. , t he pr i zes wer e awar ded, and I

l ef t , t he danci ng goi ng on mer r i l y f or anot her t wo hour s.

I was amused by t he awar d of t he men' s pr i ze t o t he

si nger of a voci f er ousl y appl auded di t t y, ent i t l ed " The

Ti me o' Day, " f or i t showed t hat t he keenest zest of t he

Wessex r ust i c i s st i l l , as i t was t hi r t y year s ago, t o get a

r i se out of — or , i n moder n sl ang, t o scor e of f — " t haay

var mer s. " I t began : —

A st r aanger wt mst i n Wor cest er sheer ,

A gen' l man he j i r of essed,

He l i ved by t aki n' o' peopl e i n,

He wnz so ni cel y dr essed.

Wi ' my t ol - de- r ol , et c.

Thi s st r anger , havi ng a gol d chai n r ound hi s neck, swagger s

i n t he f ar mer s' r oom on mar ket - day, t i l l —

He zet s un i n a bi g ar m- cheer ,

And, bei n' pr eci ous deep,

St i cks out hi s l egs, dr ows back hi s ar ms,

And " gai nmot s" of f t o sl eep.

296 Vacat i on Rambl es

The f ar mer s canvas hi m, and doubt i f he has any wat ch

t o hi s chai n. Hi s f r i end, " by t hem not under st ood, "

pul l s out t he chai n, shows a pi ece of wood at t he end,

and put s i t back. The st r anger wakes ; t he f ar mer s ask

hi m " t he t i me 0' day " ; he excuses hi msel f , on t he pl ea

t hat l ast ni ght , havi ng t aken a gl ass t oo much, he di d not

wi nd up hi s wat ch. At t hi s —

The var mer s sai d, and di d pr ot est ,

Ez sur e ez we' r e al i ve,

Thet t hee dost not possess a wat ch

Of pounds we' l l bet t hee vi ve.

The st r anger cover s t he bet s, pul l s out a pi ece of wood,

t ouches a spr i ng, and shows a wat ch i nsi de : —

' Bout vi f t y pounds t haay var mer s l ost ,

Whi ch i n cour se t haay di ed t o paay,

And t he bwoys r un ar t er ' em down t he st r eet ,

Wi ' " Gee us t he t i me o' daay. "

Wi ' my t ol - de- r ol , et c.

I di d not , however , concur i n t he awar d mysel f . I shoul d

have gi ven t he pr i ze f or a l ove - song, a sor t of r ust i c

r ender i ng of " Phyl l i s i s my onl y Joy, " t he chor us of

Page 182 of 259

whi ch r an : —

For ef you woul d, I ' m sur e you coul d

Jest l et a f el l er know ;

Ef i t st r i kes you as i t l i kes you,

Answer yes or no.

The j udges, however , f ol l owed, i f ( t wo bei ng " var mer s " )

t hey di d not t hor oughl y sympat hi se wi t h, t he obvi ous

f eel i ng of t he cr owded r oom. The pat r i ot i c songs, I

not i ced, had qui t e changed t hei r char act er . They never

wer e of t he vul gar j i ngo ki nd i n Wessex, but t her e used

t o be much of t he ol d Di bdi n and t ow- r ow- r ow r i ng about

t hem. " The Poor Li t t l e Sol di er Boy " may be t aken as

a speci men of t he new st yl e. Hi s f at her di es of wounds ;

he ' l i st s ; comes home ; i s di schar ged ; wander s st ar vi ng,

t i l l , opposi t e a f i ne gat e, he si nks down, aski ng t he un-

Vacat i on Rambl es 297

known i nmat es how t hey wi l l l i ke t o f i nd hi m, " dead at

t hei r door i n t he mor n. " At t hi s cr i si s a l ady appear s,

who t akes hi m i n and pr ovi des f or hi m f or l i f e. The

onl y l i nes I car r i ed away wer e f r om a song even mor e

paci f i c i n t one t han " The Poor Li t t l e Sol di er Boy. "

They r an : —

Ef I wur Ki ng o' Fr ance,

Or , bet t er , Pope o' Rome,

I ' d hev no f i ght i n' men abr oad,

Nor weepi n' mai ds at home.

But t her e was an appr oach t o " wavi ng t he f l ag " amongst

t he women, one of whom, a st r appi ng damsel , sang : —

We' ve got t he st r engt h of wi l l ,

And ol d Engl and' s Engl and st i l l ,

And ever y ot her nat i on knows i t — " r at her " !

whi ch wor d " r at her " ended ever y ver se of a somewhat

vul gar di t t y. She di d not get t he pr i ze, nor di d t he

mat r on whom I f i xed on as t he wi nner , who sang wi t h-

out a hi t ch a monot onous and, I began t o t hi nk, never -

endi ng bal l ad on t he r i val r i es of " young Samuel " and

one " Bar ne- wel l " f or t he gr aces of an undeci ded young

woman. The at t ent i on wi t h whi ch t hi s somewhat dr ear y

nar r at i ve was l i st ened t o decei ved me, f or t he pr i ze went ,

wi t hout publ i c pr ot est , t o a young woman of whose song

I coul d not cat ch a l i ne, t hough I coul d j ust gat her t hat

i t was f eebl y sent i ment al . My i mpr essi on i s t hat i t was

her br i ght eyes, and pr et t y f ace and f i gur e, t hat car r i ed

i t wi t h t he j udges, r at her t han her si ngi ng. I f I am

r i ght , i t wi l l nei t her be t he f i r st nor l ast t i me t hat t he

pr i zes i n t hi s wor l d f al l t o t es beaux yeux.

Page 183 of 259

The school f aces t he upper end of t he vi l l age gr een,

and I l ef t i t so cr owded t hat i t was a wonder how t he

dancer s coul d get al ong at al l wi t h t hei r pol kas and

handker chi ef dances, t he l at t er a ki nd of count r y dance,

whi ch wer e t he onl y ones i n vogue. When I got out , I

saw l i ght ed boot hs at t he ot her end of t he gr een, and

went down t o i nspect . I t was a mel anchol y si ght .

298 Vacat i on Rambl es

Ther e was t he publ i can' s danci ng- boot h wi t hout a soul i n

i t . One swi ng onl y was occupi ed i n t he nei ghbour i ng

acr obat i c appar at us, and t he r ound- about was mot i onl ess.

The gi psi es wer e t her e, r eady and eager t o t el l f or t unes,

and wi t h a wel l - l i ght ed al l ey f or t hr owi ng at cocoa- nut s

wi t h bowl s r at her l ar ger t han cr i cket - bal l s — t he most

moder n and popul ar subst i t ut e, I am t ol d, f or ski t t l es.

Ther e t hey wer e, but not a cust omer i n si ght , t he onl y

human bei ng but mysel f bei ng t he sol i t ar y count y

pol i ceman, who pat r ol l ed t he gr een wi t h most consci ent i ous

r egul ar i t y, onl y sl ackeni ng hi s pace f or a moment or t wo

as he passed under t he br i ght open wi ndows of t he

school r oom, f r om whi ch t he mer r y dance- musi c came

st r eami ng out i nt o t he moonl i ght . I coul d al most f i nd i t

i n my hear t t o pi t y t he publ i can and gi psi es, so over -

whel mi ng di d t hei r def eat seem, f or not a gl ass of beer

had been al l owed al l day i n t he vi car ' s f i el ds, wher e t he

cr i cket - mat ch had been pl ayed and al l t he r aces r un, on

mi l k, t ea, or aer at ed wat er s. The whol e st ock of t hese

l ast bever ages, suppl i ed f r om t he " Hope Cof f ee Koom, "

whi ch has f aced t he publ i c- house on t he vi l l age gr een now

f or about t hr ee year s, was dr unk out bef or e t he danci ng

ended and t he school cl osed on " veast " ni ght , t o t he

exceedi ng j oy of t he vi car ' s ni ece and her l i eut enant s,

t wo br i ght Cor ni sh damsel s, handy, devot ed, and ar dent

t eet ot al er s. These t hr ee have been f i ght i ng t he publ i cans

si nce 1886, when t hey st ar t ed t he " Hope Cof f ee Room, "

suppl i ed wi t h br ead, but t er , and cakes f r om t he vi car age,

and aer at ed dr i nks and l i ght l i t er at ur e, al l , I t ake i t , at

somet hi ng under cost pr i ce, t hough t hi s t he t hr ee ar dent

damsel s wi l l by no means admi t . The vi car , who i s no

t eet ot al er hi msel f , shr ugs hi s shoul der s l aughi ngl y, pl ays

hi s f i ddl e, pays t he bi l l s, and l et s t hem have t hei r own

way, wi t h an occasi onal pr ot est t hat some ni ght he shal l

have hi s bar n and r i cks bur nt . Ther e i s, however , no

r eal danger of t hi s, as he has l i ved wi t h and f or hi s poor

f or mor e t han t hi r t y year s wi t h scar cel y one Sunday' s

br eak, and gi psy or publ i can woul d get shor t shr i f t who

Vacat i on Rambl es 299

damaged hi m or anyt hi ng t hat i s hi s. I f ound hi m qui t e

r eady t o admi t t he gr eat i mpr ovement whi ch i s appar ent

i n t he " veast , " as i n many ot her phases of r ust i c l i f e,

t hough he cannot get over , or l ook wi t h anyt hi ng but

Page 184 of 259

di sl i ke and di st r ust at , t he cr ammi ng and exami ni ng

syst em, whi ch, as he mour ns, embi t t er s t he onl y t i me i n

t he l i ves of hi s poor chi l dr en whi ch used t o be r eal l y

happy, when t hey coul d pl ay about on t he vi l l age gr een

and i n t he l anes r egar dl ess of I nspect or and Gover nment

gr ant . Nor am I sur e t hat he does not l ook wi t h r egr et

at t he di sappear ance of cudgel - pl ayi ng and wr est l i ng out

of t he pr ogr amme of t he year l y " Veast - Spor t s. " Cr i cket ,

f i ne game as i t i s, does not br i ng out qui t e t he same

qual i t i es. No doubt t her e wer e now and t hen bad hur t s

i n t hose spor t s, and f i ght s af t er war ds ; but t hese came

f r om beer , and mi ght happen j ust as easi l y over cr i cket .

So he muses, and I r at her sympat hi se. As has been wel l

sung by t he oul d gamest er : —

Who' s vor a bout o' vr endl y pl aay,

As never shoul d t o anger move,

Sech spwor t s be onl y meant f or t haay

As l i kes t hei r mazzar ds br oke f or l ove.

But I shoul d be sor r y t o bel i eve t hat t her e ar e f ewer

youngst er s t o- day i n t he " West count r y who " l i kes t hei r

mazzar ds br oke f or l ove" t han t her e used t o be hal f a

cent ur y ago.

The Di vi ni ng- Eod

21st Sept ember 1889.

About a quar t er of a cent ur y ago, I had t he chance of

seei ng some exper i ment s i n t he sear ch f or wat er by t he

use of " t he di vi ni ng r od" on a t hi r st y st r et ch of t he

Ber kshi r e chal k r ange. Oddl y enough ( what a l ot of

odd t hi ngs t her e ar e l yi ng al l r ound us ! ) at t he hi ghest

poi nt s of t hi s ver y r ange you mi ght come on " dew- ponds, "

whi ch never seemed t o r un dr y, t hough how t he whi t e

^oo Vacat i on Rambl es

o

chal ky wat er got t her e, or kept t her e, no one, I bel i eve,

has ever been abl e t o expl ai n f r om t hat day t o t hi s. But

t hese " dew- ponds" wer e of no use, of cour se, t o t he

cot t ages scat t er ed al ong t he hi l l si de, and whoever want ed

spr i ng- wat er , had t o go down about 400 f eet f or i t .

Wel l , I negl ect ed t hat chance, and ever si nce have been

r egr et t i ng i t .

My not i on of t he wat er - di vi ner was gat her ed f r om Si r

Wal t er ' s f amous por t r ai t of Doust er swi vel i n t he Ant i quar y;

a f el l ow " who amongst f ool s and womanki nd t al ks of t he

Cabal a, t he di vi ni ng- r od, and al l t he t r umper y wi t h whi ch

t he Eosi cr uci ans cheat ed a dar ker age, and whi ch, t o our

et er nal di sgr ace, has i n some degr ee r evi ved i n our own. "

I was r esol ved t hat t he r evi val shoul d i n no case be

Page 185 of 259

f or war ded by me, and so l ost my oppor t uni t y, and have

been ever si nce t ant al i sed by r epor t s of mar vel s wr ought

by t he hazel - wand, as t o whi ch I was qui t e at a l oss t o

f or m any r easonabl e opi ni on. I t was wi t h no l i t t l e

sat i sf act i on, t her ef or e, t hat I r ecei ved, and accept ed, an

i nvi t at i on t o assi st at a wat er - sear ch about t o be under -

t aken by a di vi ner of consi der abl e r eput at i on i n t he

out ski r t s of Deer Leap Wood, i n t he par i sh of Woot t on,

Sur r ey.

Thi s wood, not abl e even amongst t he l ovel i est of t hat

f avour ed count y, bel ongs t o t he wor t hy r epr esent at i ve of

t he aut hor of Syl va and t he Memoi r s, who, havi ng bui l t

some excel l ent cot t ages on i t s conf i nes, desi r es t o f i nd

t he occupant s a good suppl y of spr i ng- wat er i n si t u.

Accor di ngl y a gr oup of us, men and women of al l ages,

and of al l degr ees of scept i ci sm — f or I doubt i f t her e was

a si ngl e bel i ever i n t he ef f i cacy of t he r od, t hough t he

squi r e hi msel f and a f r i end pr eser ved a j udi ci ous si l ence

— gat her ed l ast Fr i day af t er br eakf ast on t he l awn bef or e

Woot t on House, t o awai t t he ar r i val of t he wat er - doct or ,

whom t he agent had gone t o meet at t he st at i on. I t was

agr eed on al l hands t hat a pr el i mi nar y t est shoul d be

appl i ed, and t hat t he l awn on whi ch we st ood of f er ed

qui t e admi r abl e f aci l i t i es f or t hi s pur pose. For , mor e

Vacat i on Rambl es 301

t han t wo hundr ed year s ago, John Evel yn had di ver t ed a

por t i on of t he st r eam, whi ch r uns down t he val l ey i n

whi ch t he house st ands, f or t he pur pose of maki ng a

f ount ai n on t he t er r aces. ( Let i t be not ed i n passi ng,

t hat t he l ead- wor k of t hat f ount ai n has needed no r epai r

f r om t hat day t o t hi s ! Ther e wer e pl umber s i n t hose

days ! ) Fr om t hi s f ount ai n t wo pi pes car r y t he wat er i nt o

t he house, under t he l awn on whi ch we st ood. Now t he

l awn t ur f i s as smoot h as a bi l l i ar d- t abl e, wi t hout t he

sl i ght est i ndi cat i on of t he wher eabout s of t hese pi pes,

whi ch i ndeed was onl y known vaguel y t o t he squi r e, and

not at al l t o any one el se of t hose pr esent . I f t he

di vi ni ng- r od coul d di scover t hese, t he exper i ment at

" Deer Leap Wood " mi ght be under t aken wi t h good hope.

Wel l , t he doct or , conduct ed by t he st ewar d, ar r i ved i n

due cour se, a st out mi ddl e- aged man, of t he st amp of a

hi gh- cl ass mechani c ; pl ai n and st r ai ght f or war d i n speech,

and wi t h no pr et ence what ever t o myst er y. I n answer

t o our quest i ons, he sai d : " He coul dn' t t el l how i t came

about ; but of t hi s he was sur e, t hat he coul d f i nd spr i ngs

and r unni ng wat er . Thi r t y year s ago he was wor ki ng as

a mason at Chi ppenham, wi t h a Cor ni sh mi ner amongst

ot her s. He saw t hi s man f i nd wat er wi t h t he r od ; had

t hen t r i ed i t hi msel f , and f ound he coul d do i t . That

was al l he knew. Any one of us mi ght have t he same

power . Why, t wo young gent l emen who saw hi m wor k-

i ng at War l ei gh, near Bat h, had copi ed hi m, and f ound a

spr i ng r i ght under t hei r f at her ' s l i br ar y. " We l i st ened,

and t hen pr oposed t hat he shoul d j ust t r y about t he l awn.

He pr oduced a hazel t wi g shaped l i ke a Y, t he ar ms, each

some ei ght een i nches l ong ; t he poi nt , per haps, si x i nches.

I may not e, however , t hat t he di mensi ons can be of no con-

sequence, f or he used at l east hal f a dozen i n hi s t r i al s,

cut t i ng t hem at r andom out of t he hazel - bush as we

Page 186 of 259

wal ked al ong, and t aki ng no measur e of any of t hem.

Taki ng an ar m of t he Y bet ween t he mi ddl e f i nger s of

each hand, he wal ked acr oss t he l awn sl owl y, st oopi ng

sl i ght l y f or war d, so as t o keep t he poi nt downwar ds, about

302 Vacat i on Rambl es

a f oot f r om t he gr ound. He had not gone a dozen yar ds

bef or e t he r od qui ver ed, and t hen t he poi nt r ose at once

st r ai ght up i nt o t he ai r . " Ther e' s r unni ng wat er her e, "

he sai d, " and cl ose t o t he sur f ace. " We mar ked t he spot

and f ol l owed hi m, and some t went y- f i ve yar ds f ur t her t he

poi nt of t he Y agai n spr ang up i nt o t he ai r . The st ewar d,

who knew t he pl ans accur at el y, was appeal ed t o, and

admi t t ed t hat t hese wer e t he pr eci se spot s under whi ch

t he pi pes r an. I n answer t o t he suggest i on t hat t he poi nt

spr ang up by pr essur e of hi s f i nger s, vol unt ar y or i n-

vol unt ar y, he asked t wo of us t o hol d t he ar ms beyond

hi s f i nger s, and see i f we coul d pr event t he poi nt r i si ng.

We di d so ( I bei ng one) , and di d al l we coul d t o keep i t

poi nt ed downwar ds, but i t r ose i n spi t e of us, and I

wat ched hi s hands car ef ul l y at t he same t i me and coul d

det ect no movement what ever of t he muscl es. Then he

br oke one of t he ar ms, al l but t he bar k, and st i l l t he poi nt

r ose as br i skl y as ever . Last l y, he pr oposed t hat each of

us shoul d t r y i f we had t he power . We di d so, but wi t h-

out success, except t hat i n t he case of Mr s. Evel yn and

anot her l ady t he poi nt t r embl ed, and seemed i ncl i ned,

t hough unabl e, t o r i se. He t hen t ook hol d of t hei r wr i st s,

and at once i t r ose, near l y as pr ompt l y as i t had done

wi t h hi m. Thi s was enough ; and we st ar t ed i n pr oces -

si on, on poni es, i n car r i ages, or wal ki ng, t o Deer Leap

Wood, wher e i n t he cour se of an hour he mar ked wi t h

pegs some hal f dozen spot s, under whi ch r unni ng wat er

wi l l be f ound at f r om 70 f eet t o 100 f eet . He di d not

pr et end t o be abl e t o gi ve t he exact dept h, but onl y under -

t ook t o gi ve t he out si de l i mi t s. And so we al l went back

t o l unch, and Mul l i ns t ook hi s f ee and depar t ed. I know,

si r , t hat you have many sci ent i f i c r eader s, and can pi ct ur e

t o mysel f t he smi l e t i nged wi t h scor n wi t h whi ch t hey

wi l l t ur n t o your next page when t hey get t hus f ar . Wel l ,

I own t hat t he bor i ng r emai ns t o be cl one, t he r esul t s of

whi ch I hope t o send you i n due cour se. Meant i me, l et

me r emi nd t hem of a wel l - known advent ur e of one of t he

most f amous of t hei r pr edecessor s t owar ds t he end of l ast

Vacat i on Rambl es 303

cent ur y. Si r Joseph Banks, bot ani si ng on t he downs on

a cl oudl ess June day, came acr oss a shepher d whom he

gr eet ed wi t h t he cust omar y " Fi ne day, " — " Ees, " was t he

r epl y, " but t her e' l l be heavy r ai n yet , af or e ni ght . " Si r

Joseph passed on unheedi ng, and got a t hor ough dr enchi ng

bef or e he r eached hi s i nn. Next mor ni ng he went back,

f ound t he shepher d, and put a gui nea i n hi s hand, wi t h

" Now, my man, t el l me how you knew t her e was goi ng t o

be r ai n yest er day af t er noon. " " Whoy, " sai d Hodge, wi t h

a gr i n, " I zeed my oul d r am a shovi n' hi ssel f back' ar ds

i n under t huck gi r t t hor ni n bush ; and wenever a doos

t hat t her e' l l sar t i n sur e be heavy r ai nf al l af or e sundown. "

Page 187 of 259

Not e. — Wat er was f ound wher e i t was expect ed by t he Di vi ner , and

t hi s wel l i s now used by t he t enant s of t he Deer Leap Cot t ages. —

Oct ober 1895.

5t h Apr i l 1890.

Sequah' s " Fl ower of t he Pr ai r i e, " Chest er , 26t h Mar ch

1890.

" Why, what on ear t h can t hi s be 1 " I asked of t he man

who st ood next me i n t he For egat e some t en days ago, as

we paused at a cr ossi ng t o al l ow t he st r ange obj ect whi ch

had dr awn f r om me t he above ej acul at i on t o j ) ass on, wi t h

i t s at t endant cr owd. I t was a mi ght y gi l ded waggon, cer -

t ai nl y f our t een f eet l ong by si x f eet or seven f eet br oad.

I t was dr awn by f our handsome bays. On t wo r ai sed

seat s at t he f r ont sat ei ght men, Engl i sh, I f ancy, ever y

man of t hem, but cl ad over t hei r or di nar y gar ment s i n

l ong l eat her coat s wi t h f r i nges, such as our f ami l i ar

I ndi ans wear i n mel odr ama, and i n t he br oad- br i mmed,

sof t f el t s of t he West er n cowboy. They wer e al l ar med

wi t h br ass i nst r ument s and made t he ol d st r eet s r esound

wi t h popul ar ai r s. Behi nd t hese r ai sed seat s, i n t he body

of t he waggon, r ode some hal f dozen, i ncl udi ng t hr ee

st r appi ng br own men, I ndi ans, I f ancy t hey pose f or , but

t hey l ooked t o me mor e l i ke t he hal f - cast es whom one

sees on t he Texan and Mexi can r anches on t he Ri o Gr ande.

They al so wer e cl ad i n f r i nged l eat her coat s, and wor e

304 Vacat i on Rambl es

sombr er os over t hei r l ong bl ack l ocks. The si des of t he

waggon, wher e not gi l t , wer e panel l ed wi t h mi r r or s, on

whi ch wer e embl azoned t he St ar s and St r i pes and ot her

col our ed devi ces. Al t oget her , t he t hi ng seemed t o me

wel l done i n i t s way, what ever i t mi ght mean ; and I

t ur ned i nqui r i ngl y t o my nei ghbour and r epeat ed my

quest i on, as t he huge gi l ded van and i t s j ubi l ant f ol l ower s

passed away down t he st at i on r oad. " Oh ! ' t i s t he

' Mer i ki n chap, as cur es f ol ks' s r heumat i cs and dr aws t hei r

t eet h. " " He must dr aw somet hi ng mor e t han t hei r t eet h, "

I sai d, " t o keep up al l t hat show. " My nei ghbour

gr i nned assent . " He' ve dr awed pr et t y ni gh al l t he l oose

money as i s goi ng her eabout s al r eady, " he sai d as we

par t ed. " One mor e quack t o f l eece t he poor , " I t hought ,

as I wal ked on. " Wel l , anyhow, t hey get a show f or

t hei r shi l l i ngs ; t hat van beat s Bar num ! "

I n t hi s mi nd I r eached t he vi car age of one of our

bi ggest ci t y par i shes t o whi ch I was bound. " I don' t

know about quack, " sai d t he vi car , when I had det ai l ed

my advent ur e on t he way, usi ng t hat di spar agi ng phr ase ;

" but t hi s I do know, t hat I have gi ven over wr i t i ng

cer t i f i cat es f or my poor f r om downr i ght shame, t he demand

i s so gr eat . " And t hen he expl ai ned t hat t he " medi ci ne-

man, " whose st age name was Sequah, made no char ge t o

any pat i ent who br ought a cl er gyman' s cer t i f i cat e of

pover t y ; t hat t he van had now been i n t he t own above

a week ; and at f i r st he, t he vi car , had gi ven such cer t i -

f i cat es f r eel y, bot h f or t r eat ment ( t oot h- dr awi ng) and f or

t he medi ci nes, but now r ef used except i n t he case of t he

Page 188 of 259

ver y poor est . No ! not because Sequah was an i mpost or ;

on t he cont r ar y, he had done sever al not ewor t hy cur es —

at any r at e t empor ar y cur es— on some of t he vi car ' s own

par i shi oner s : not abl y i n t he case of one ol d man who had

been dr awn up t o t he van i n a wheel - chai r . He had had

r heumat i sm f or t wo year s, whi ch had qui t e di sabl ed hi m,

and was i n gr eat pai n when he got on t he pl at f or m. Af t er

he had been t r eat ed he wal ked down t he st eps wi t hout

hel p, and wheel ed hi s chai r home hi msel f . Unl ucki l y,

Vacat i on Rambl es - xo

o u o

Sequah had advi sed hi m t o get war m wool l en under cl ot hi ng,

and on hi s pl eadi ng t hat he had not t he money t o buy i t ,

had gi ven hi m a sover ei gn. Thi s so el at ed hi m t hat he

f el t qui t e a new man, and coul d not hel p br eaki ng hi s

sover ei gn on t he way home t o gi ve t he new man a con-

gr at ul at or y gl ass at a f avour i t e pot - house. Thi s had

t hr own hi m back, and hi s knees wer e a l i t t l e st i f f agai n,

but t he pai n had not r et ur ned even i n t hi s case.

Af t er such t est i mony f r om a t hor oughl y t r ust wor t hy

and mat t er - of - f act wi t ness, I r esol ved t o see t hi s st r ange

t hi ng wi t h my own eyes, and went of f st r ai ght f r om t he

vi car age t o t he scene of act i on, t o whi ch t he vi car di r ect ed

me. Thi s was an ol d t an- yar d about hal f an acr e i n ext ent ,

and was f ul l of peopl e when I ar r i ved, t he space i mme-

di at el y r ound t he waggon bei ng densel y cr owded. I t was

dr awn up i n t he mi ddl e of t he pl ot . The ei ght br ass -

bandsmen had wheel ed r ound so as t o l ook down f r om t hei r

r ai sed benches on t he f l oor of t he waggon, on whi ch was

a l ar ge l eat her chai r . I n f r ont of t he chai r , speaki ng t o

t he cr owd f r om t he end of t he waggon, st ood a t al l f i gur e,

i n a f i ner ki nd of l eat her - f r i nged coat , or nament ed wi t h

r ows of bl ue, r ed, and whi t e beads. At f i r st gl ance I

t hought i t was a woman f r om t he f i neness of t he f eat ur es,

and masses of l ong, l i ght hai r f al l i ng on t he shoul der s.

A second gl ance, however , showed me t hat i t was a man,

and a vi gor ous and muscul ar one t oo. He was expl ai ni ng

t hat t he medi ci nes he was goi ng t o sel l pr esent l y wer e

not " sci ent i f i c, " but " nat ur al " medi ci nes, " compounded

of t he wat er of a Cal i f or ni an spr i ng and cer t ai n bot ani c

i ngr edi ent s " ! I wi l l not t r oubl e you wi t h a l i st of al l

t he ai l ment s t hey wi l l cur e i f t aken st eadi l y and i n suf f i -

ci ent doses, but get on at once t o t he per f or mance. Hav -

i ng f i ni shed hi s speech, he put on hi s sombr er o, t ook up

a pai r of f or ceps f r om a t abl e on whi ch a r ow of t hem

wer e di spl ayed, and st ood by t he chai r . Upon t hi s,

advanced an appar ent l y endl ess l i ne of men, women, and

chi l dr en, mar shal l ed by t he I ndi ans who st ood at t he f oot

of t he st eps. One by one t hey came up, sat down i n t he

X

Page 189 of 259

306 Vacat i on Rambl es

chai r , passed under Sequah' s hands, and descended t he

st eps on t he ot her si de of t he Avaggon i nt o t he wonder i ng

cr owd, whi l e t he band di scour sed vi gor ous and cont i nuous

musi c. I wat ched hi m dr aw at l east f i f t y t eet h i n l ess

t han as many mi nut es. The pat i ent j ust sat down, opened

hi s mout h, poi nt ed t o t he peccant t oot h, and i t was out

i n most cases bef or e he coul d wi nk. Ther e wer e per haps

t hr ee or f our cases ( of adul t s) i n whi ch t hi ngs di d not go

qui t e so smoot hl y, and one — t hat of a young woman, who

sei zed her bonnet and r ushed down t he st eps i n evi dent

pai n and r age — af t er whi ch he st opped t he band, and ex-

pl ai ned t o us t hat her t oot h was so decayed t hat he had

had t o br eak t he st ump i n t he j aw. Thi s he had done,

and shoul d have t aken t he pi eces out wi t hout causi ng any

f ur t her pai n, i f she had j ust wai t ed a f ew mor e seconds.

Ther e ar e r umour s f l yi ng r ound t hat t he i nf i r mar y i s

cr owded dai l y wi t h pat i ent s i n agoni es f r om br oken f angs

whi ch have been l ef t i n by Sequah. On t he ot her hand,

t wo of our doct or s whom I have met admi t t hat he i s a

ver y r emar kabl e " ext r act or , " and has f i r st - r at e i nst r ument s.

Ther e wer e st i l l cr owds wai t i ng t hei r t ur n when he

f i ni shed hi s t oot h - dr awi ng f or t he day, and announced

t hat he woul d now t r eat a case of r heumat i sm. Ther e-

upon, an el der l y man — who gave hi s name and addr ess,

and st at ed t hat he had been r heumat i c f or t wel ve year s,

unabl e t o wal k f or t wo, and was now i n gr eat pai n — was

car r i ed up t he st eps and put i n t he chai r . Then buf f al o-

r obes wer e br ought by t he I ndi ans, t wo of whom hel d

t hem up so as t o conceal Sequah and t he t hi r d, a r ubber ,

who r emai ned i nsi de wi t h t he pat i ent . Then t he br ass

band st r uck up boi st er ousl y, t he buf f al o- r obe scr een was

agi t at ed her e and t her e, and a st r ong and ver y pungent

smel l ( not unl i ke har t shor n) spr ead al l r ound. I t i med

t hem, and at t he end of ei ght een mi nut es t he buf f al o-

r obes wer e l ower ed, and t her e was t he ol d man dr essed

agai n and seat ed i n t he chai r . The band st opped. Sequah

asked t he ol d man i f he f el t any pai n now. He r epl i ed,

" No, " and t hen was t ol d t o wal k t o t he f r ont of t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 307

pl at f or m, whi ch he di d ; t hen t o get down t he l adder ,

wal k r ound t he waggon amongst t he cr owd, and come up

on t he ot her si de, whi ch he di d, l ooki ng, I must say, as

ast oni shed as I was, at hi s own per f or mance. Then si x

or seven men, most l y el der l y, came up and decl ar ed t hat

t hey had been si mi l ar l y t r eat ed, and wer e wonder f ul l y

bet t er , some of t hem qui t e cur ed and at wor k agai n.

Then Sequah i nvi t ed any per son who had been t r eat ed

by hi m or t aken hi s medi ci nes and wer e none t he bet t er ,

t o come up i nt o t he waggon and t el l us about i t , as t hat

was t hei r pr oper pl ace and not bel ow. Thi s of f er seemed

qui t e bond f i de, but i t di d not i mpr ess me, as I doubt

whet her any pr ot est i ng pat i ent woul d have had much

chance of ascendi ng t he st eps, whi ch wer e kept by t he

I ndi ans and t hei r abl e- bodi ed conf eder at es. No one

answer i ng, t wo bi g por t mant eaus wer e br ought up, out

of whi ch he began t o sel l hi s medi ci nes at a dol l ar ( 4s. )

t he set — t wo bot t l es and t wo smal l packet s. The r ush

t o be ser ved began, peopl e cr ushi ng and st r uggl i ng t o get

Page 190 of 259

near enough t o hand up t hei r hat s or caps wi t h 4s. i n

t hem, whi ch wer e r et ur ned wi t h t he medi ci nes i n t hem.

I wat ched: f or at l east t en mi nut es, when, t her e bei ng

appar ent l y no end t o t he pur chases, I st r ol l ed away,

musi ng on t he st r ange scene, and wonder i ng what t he

at t r act i on can be i n t he Bohemi an l i f e whi ch coul d i nduce

a man of t hi s evi dent power t o wander about t he wor l d

i n a gi l ded waggon, i n a r i di cul ous cost ume, and t al ki ng

t r anspar ent cl ap- t r ap, t o sel l goods whi ch appar ent l y

want no l i es t el l i ng about t hem.

I may add t hat I went agai n l ast Sat ur day, when t her e

was even a gr eat er cr owd, and an ol der and mor e sever e

case of r heumat i sm was t r eat ed wi t h qui t e as gr eat ( ap-

par ent ) success.

Fr ench Popul ar Feel i ng

15t h August 1S90.

I doubt i f any of your r eader s has l ess sympat hy t han

308 Vacat i on Rambl es

I wi t h t he year ni ng t o go back t went y, t hi r t y, or f or t y

year s ( as t he case may be) , whi ch seems t o be a not e of

cont empor ar y l i t er at ur e, and t her ef or e, I t ake i t , of t he

aver age mi nd of t he men and women of our day, who

have passed out of t hei r f i r st yout h. " The El i xi r of

Li f e, " whi ch Bul wer dr eamed and wr ot e of , whi ch shoul d

r est or e yout h, wi t h i t s boundi ng pul ses and gol den l ocks,

i t s capaci t y f or physi cal enj oyment , and f or bui l di ng

cast l es i n Spai n, I t hi nk I may say wi t h conf i dence I

woul d not dr i nk f our t i mes a day, wi t h t went y mi nut es'

pr omenade bet ween t he gl asses ( as I am j ust now dr i nki ng

of t he sour ce Ccesar her e) , even i f an el i xi r mi ce sour ce

wer e t o come bubbl i ng up t o- mor r ow i n t hi s enchant i ng

Auver gne val l ey, and our Engl i sh doct or her e at Royat

— known t o al l r eader s of Mr . Punch' s " Wat er Cour se "

— wer e t o put i t per empt or i l y on my t r eat ment - paper

t o- mor r ow mor ni ng. I t i s not sur el y t he " good f el l ows

whose bear ds ar e gr ay, " who si gh over t he depar t ur e of

muscul ar f or ce, and sur e qui ckness of eye and ner ve,

whi ch enabl ed t hem i n year s gone by t o j ump f i ve- bar r ed

gat es or get down t o l eg- shoot er s. They ar e gl ad t o see

t he boys doi ng t hese t hi ngs, and r ej oi ci ng i n t hem ; but ,

f or t hemsel ves, do not desi r e any mor e t o j ump f i ve-

bar r ed gat es or get down t o l eg- shoot er s. They have

l ear ned t he wi se man' s l esson, t hat t her e i s a t i me f or al l

t hi ngs, and t hat t hose who l i nger on l i f e' s j our ney and

f ancy t hey can st i l l occupy t he pl easant r oadsi de pl aces

af t er t hei r par t of t he col umn has passed on ahead, wi l l

sur el y f i nd t hemsel ves i n t he way of , and be shoul der ed

out by, t he next di vi si on, wi t hout a chance of bei ng abl e

t o r egai n t hei r pl ace i n t he l i ne, si de by si de wi t h ol d

comr ades and cont empor ar i es.

But i t i s one t hi ng t o f al l out of t he l i ne of mar ch of

one' s own accor d, f r om an unwi se hanker i ng af t er r oad-

si de pl easur es, and qui t e anot her t o have t o f al l out

because one can no l onger keep one' s ol d pl ace i n t he

col umn by r eason of f ai l i ng wi nd, or muscl e, or ner ve ;

and t he man of sense who f eel s hi s back st i f f eni ng, or hi s

Page 191 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 309

f eet get t i ng t ender , wi l l do wel l t o l i st en t o such hi nt s

bet i mes, and bet ake hi msel f at once t o what ever pl ace or

r egi men hol ds ont t he best hope of enabl i ng hi m t o keep

st ep once mor e, t i l l t he day i s f ai r l y over and t he mar ch

done. I t i s f or t hi s r eason, at any r at e, t hat I f i nd

mysel f at Royat , f r om whi ch I have been assur ed by

mor e t han one t r ust wor t hy f r i end who has t est ed t he

wat er s, t hat I shal l r et ur n af t er t hr ee weeks " wi t h new

t i ssues, " and " f i t t o f i ght f or my l i f e. " I don' t see any

pr ospect of havi ng t o f i ght f or my l i f e i n my ol d age,

t hough one can' t be t oo conf i dent wi t h t he new Radi cal i sm

l oomi ng up so menaci ngl y, and am ver y wel l cont ent wi t h

my ol d t i ssues, i f t hey can onl y be got i nt o f ai r wor ki ng

or der agai n, of whi ch I al r eady begi n t o t hi nk t her e i s

good pr ospect her e, t hough my exper i ence of t he sowr ces

" Eugeni e" and " Caesar " i s as yet not a week ol d.

I t i s mor e t han t went y year s si nce I have wr i t t en t o

you f r om Fr ance over t hi s si gnat ur e, and si nce t hat

t i me I have onl y been once i n Par i s, f or t wo days on

busi ness. The gay ci t y i s much l ess changed t han 1

expect ed t o f i nd i t , so f ar as one can j udge f r om a dr i ve

acr oss i t f r om t he Gar e de l ' Ouest t o t he Gar e de Lyon,

and a st r ol l ( af t er deposi t i ng l uggage at t he l at t er st at i on)

al ong t he Rue de Ri vol i and t he Quai s, and t hr ough t he

st r eet s of t he ol d ci t y. The cl ear ance whi ch has l ef t an

open space i n f r ont of Not r e Dame, so t hat one can get a

good vi ew of t he west er n f r ont , seemed t o me t he most

not ewor t hy i mpr ovement . The gr eat r ange of publ i c

bui l di ngs and of f i ces whi ch have been added t o t he Louvr e

ar e st at el y and i mpr essi ve, but cannot make up f or t he

di sappear ance of t he Tui l er i es. The Ei f f el Tower i s a

gr eat di sappoi nt ment . Al l bui l di ngs shoul d be ei t her

beaut i f ul or usef ul ; but i t i s nei t her , and onl y seems t o

dwar f al l t he ot her bui l di ngs. But one change i mpr essed

me gr i evousl y. Wher e ar e al l t he dai nt i l y dr essed women

and chi l dr en gone t o 1 Per haps t he wor l d of f ashi on may

be out of t own ; but t her e must be some t wo mi l l i ons of

peopl e l ef t i n Par i s, a quar t er of t hem at l east wel l - t o-

310 Vacat i on Rambl es

do ci t i zens, and abl e t o gi ve as much car e as of ol d t o

t hei r t oi l et s. Never t hel ess, I assur e you, I sought i n

vai n f or one r eal l y dai nt y f i gur e such as one used t o meet

by t he scor e i n ever y st r eet . Can t went y year s of t he

t r ue Republ i c have made La Bel l e Fr ance dowdy ? I t i s

gr i evous t o t hi nk of i t , and I hope t o be undecei ved

bef or e I get back amongst t he cer t ai nl y bet t er got - up

women of my nat i ve l and.

For my ni ne hour s' j our ney sout h, I bought a handf ul

of t he cheap i l l ust r at ed paper s — Le Gr el ot , Le Tr oupi er , and

ot her s — whi ch seem t o be as much t he dai l y i nt el l ect ual

f ar e of t he Fr ench t r avel l i ng publ i c as ( I r egr et t o say)

Ti t - Bi t s and i t s congener s ar e, at any r at e i n my par t of

Engl and. Of cour se i t i s al ways di f f i cul t t o know what

Page 192 of 259

" t he peopl e " ar e t hi nki ng or car i ng about ; but t o get at

what t hey r ead must be not a bad t est . A per usal of

t hese cer t ai nl y sur pr i sed me f avour abl y, especi al l y i n

t hi s r espect , t hat t hey wer e al most ent i r el y f r ee f r om

t he pr ur i ency whi ch i s so gener al l y supposed t o be t he

char act er i st i c of moder n Fr ench l i t er at ur e.

I wi sh I coul d speak hal f as f avour abl y of t he at t i t ude

of Fr ance, so f ar as t hese j our nal s di scl ose i t , t owar ds her

nei ghbour s ; but t hi s i s about as bad as i t can be, t ouchy,

j eal ous, and unf ai r , al l r ound. Take, f or i nst ance, t he

Tr oupi er , whi ch i s speci al l y addr essed t o t he Ar my. The

car t oon r epr esent s t he " Gr and Jeu de Massacr e, " at whi ch

al l passer s- by ar e i nvi t ed t o j oi n f r ee of char ge. The j eu

consi st s of t hr owi ng at a r ow of puppet s, ci t i zens of

Al sace- Lor r ai ne, i n whi ch a br ut al Ger man sol di er i s i n-

dul gi ng, whi l e t he Fr ench " Mi ni st r e des Af f ai r es ( qui l ui

sont ) Et r anger es " sl umber s peacef ul l y on a nei ghbour i ng

seat . But we come of f ' at l east as badl y as Ger many.

I n a vi gor ous l eader , ent i t l ed " Une Kecul ade, " on t he

Zanzi bar Quest i on, af t er a ver y bi t t er openi ng agai nst

Engl and — " i l n' y a guer e de pays qui n' ai t 6t 6 r oul e

dupe et vol 6 par el l e, " — t he Tr oupi er br eaks i nt o a song

of t r i umph over t he backi ng- down of Engl and, " f l anquee

dAl l emagne et de ses al l i es, " bef or e t he r esol ut e at t i t ude

Vacat i on Rambl es 3 1 1

of Fr ance. " Cet t e r ecul ade, " i t ends, " de nos ennemi s

i ndi que suf f i samment qne La Fr ance a r epr i s l a pl ace et

l e r ang qui l ui convi ennent , et qu' el l e est de t ai l l e a se

f ai r e r espect er par t out et par t ons. C' est t out ce que

nous desi r i ons. " I n al l commer ci al and i ndust r i al mat t er s

we ar e equal l y gr aspi ng and unscr upul ous. Ther e seems

t o be j ust now a gr eat st i r i n t he sar di ne i ndust r y, and,

so f ar as I can make out , Engl i sh and Amer i can Compani es

seem t o be compet i ng f or a monopol y of t hat savour y

l i t t l e f i sh. I t i s, however , upon t he Engl i sh " Sar di ne

Uni on Company, Li mi t ed" — " qui s' appel l e en Fr ance,

Soci et e Gene>al e de FI ndust r i e Sar di ni er e de Fr ance" —

t hat t he vi al s of j our nal i st i c wr at h ar e bei ng empt i ed.

" Sept pol i chi nel l es, " i t woul d seem, have subscr i bed f or

one shar e each, and t he whol e scheme i s ut t er l y r ot t en.

Never t hel ess, t hi s bogus Company t hr eat ens t o buy up

al l t he sar di ne manuf act or i es i n Fr ance at f ancy pr i ces,

and, t he cont r ol bei ng i n Engl and, wi l l manuf act ur e t her e

al l t he met al boxes, and wi l l bui l d al l t he f i shi ng- boat s

over t her e, " au det r i ment de nos const r uct eur s Fr ancai s, "

and so on, and so on. I was get t i ng qui t e mel anchol y

over al l t hese onsl aught s on my nat i ve count r y, when I

came upon a t opi c whi ch al one seems t o exci t e t he

pet i t - j oi i r i i t i i i st e mor e t han t he si ns of t he l ong- t oot hed

Engl i shman — vi z. t hose of pr i est s and t hei r f ol l ower s

and sur r oundi ngs. Her e i s a comi c exampl e, over whi ch

t he Gr el ot f oams i n t r enchant and sar cast i c but i ncr edi bl y

angr y sent ences. A Bel gi an Counci l has deci ded t o di vi de

t he 500 f r . whi ch i t has vot ed t o t he " I nst i t ut Past eur , "

t he vot e bei ng " pour M. Past eur et pour St . Huber t . "

Thi s r emar kabl e vot e was car r i ed on t he pl eadi ng of a

Deput y, who, af t er payi ng homage t o M. Past eur , added :

" C' est un gr and homme qui a open! ' des cur es mer vei l -

l euses ; seul ement i l y a un aut r e gr and homme, qui depui s

Page 193 of 259

onze cent soi xant e- t r oi s annees a oper e des mi r acl es, c' est

St . Huber t — M. Past eur devr a t r avai l l er l ongt emps avant

d' en ar r i ver l a. " I am af r ai d you wi l l have no r oom f or

mor e t han one of t he scat hi ng sent ences i n whi ch t he

3 1 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

wr i t er t osses t hi s unl ucky vot e backwar ds and f or war ds :

" M. Past eur accept er a - 1 - i l de par t ager l es 500 f r .

avec St . Huber t ( adr esse i nconnue) , ou St . Huber t r e-

f user a- t - i l de par t ager avec M. Past eur ( adr esse connue) 1

— ' That i s t he quest i on, ' comme di sai t l e nomme Shake-

spear e. "

I t was i n t he mi dst of such i nst r uct i ve i f not ent i r el y

pl easant r eadi ng, t hat I ar r i ved at Cl er mont , t he ol d

capi t al of Auver gne, by f ar t he most i nt er est i ng t own

I have been i n t hi s quar t er of a cent ur y, not except i ng

Chest er . Fr om t hence, one comes up t o Royat , about

t hr ee mi l es, i n an el ect r i c t r amway, or by ' bus or cab.

Royat l es Bai ns

23?xl August 1890.

Some t hi r t y year s ago, mor e or l ess, I r emember

r eadi ng wi t h much i ncr edul ous amusement Si r Fr anci s

Head' s " Bubbl es of t he Br unnen. " I t was i n t he ear l y days

of t he Sat ur day Revi ew, when t he i nf i del Tal l eyr and

gospel of sur t out poi nt de zbl e was bei ng pr eached t o young

Engl and week by week i n t hose abl e but depr essi ng

col umns. I , l i ke t he r est of my cont empor ar i es, was

mor e or l ess af f ect ed by t he col d wat er vi r us, and was

cer t ai nl y i ncl i ned t o l ook f r om t he super i or per son st and-

poi nt on what I coul d not but r egar d as t he out pour i ngs

of t he second chi l dhood of an eccent r i c sept uagenar i an,

who was r eal l y aski ng us t o bel i eve t hat t he Schwal bach

wat er s wer e as mi r acul ousl y pot ent as t he t hi gh- bone of

St . Gl engul phus, of whi ch i s i t not wr i t t en i n The I i i -

gol dsby Legends : —

And cr i ppl es, on t ouchi ng hi s f r act ur ed osf emor i s,

Thr ew down t hei r cr ut ches and danced a quadr i l l e.

I need scar cel y say t o you, si r , t hat i t i s many year s

si nce I have been t hor oughl y di sabused of t hi s depr essi ng

her esy ; but per haps one never qui t e r ecover s f r om

Vacat i on Rambl es 3 1 3

such ear l y demor al i sat i on. At any r at e, now t hat I f i nd

mysel f appr oachi ng Si r Fr anci s' s age, and much i n hi s

f r ame of mi nd when he bl ew hi s exhi l ar at i ng bubbl es, I

can' t qui t e make up my mi nd t o t ur n mysel f l oose, as

he di d, and i n Lowel l ' s wor ds, " pour out my hope, my

f ear , my l ove, my wonder , " upon you and your r eader s.

The r eal f act , however , st at ed i n pl ai n ( Yankee) pr ose i s,

t hat Schwal bach ( I have been t her e) " i s not a ci r -

cumst ance " t o t hi s r ef uge f or t he vi ct i m of gout , r heu-

Page 194 of 259

mat i sm, eczema, dyspepsi a, and I know not how many

mor e ki ndr ed mal adi es, amongst t he bur nt - out vol canoes

of t he Depar t ment Puy- de- Dome. Never t hel ess, you

may f ai r l y say, and I shoul d agr ee, t hat my t en days'

exper i ence of t he ef f ect of t he wat er s i s scar cel y suf f i ci ent

t o make me a t r ust wor t hy wi t ness as t o t he heal i ng

pr oper t i es of t hese spr i ngs. Twent y- one days i s t he

pr escr i bed cour se, and as I am as yet but hal f t hr ough, I

wi l l not " hol l oa t i l l I am out of t he wood, " but wi l l t r y

i n t he f i r st pl ace t o gi ve you some i dea of t hi s Roy at l es

Bai ns and i t s sur r oundi ngs

Let us l ook out f r om t hi s t hi r d- f l oor wi ndow at whi ch

I am wr i t i ng, on t he hi ghest guest - f l oor of t he t opmost

hot el i n Eoyat , t o whi ch a happy chance ( or my good

angel , i f I have one) l ed me on my ar r i val . I l ook out

acr oss a nar r ow val l ey, f r om t hr ee t o f our hundr ed yar ds

wi de, upon a st eep hi l l whi ch f or ms i t s opposi t e si de.

They say t hi s hi l l i s a bur nt - out vol cano. However t hat

may be, i t i s now cl ot hed wi t h vi neyar ds on al l but t he

al most pr eci pi t ous pl aces wher e t he r ock peeps out . On

t he hi ghest poi nt , agai nst t he sky- l i ne, st ands out a smal l

whi t e house, cal l i ng i t sel f t he Hot el do l ' Obser vat oi r e,

f r om whi ch t her e must be a magni f i cent vi ew ; but how i t

i s t o be r eached I have not yet l ear ned, f or t her e i s no

vi si bl e r oad or f oot pat h, and t he peasant s obj ect t o one' s

at t empt i ng t he ascent t hr ough t he vi neyar ds. The val l ey

wi nds up r ound t hi s hi l l , t aki ng a t ur n t o t he nor t h, our

si de wi deni ng out and sweepi ng back behi nd Royal

Chur ch and vi l l age, t o whi ch t he r et r eat i ng hi l l behi nd

314 Vacat i on Rambl es

f or ms a most pi ct ur esque backgr ound. For , on t he

l ower sl ope, j ust above t he houses, ar e st r et ches of br i ght

gr een meadow, i nt er sper sed amongst i r r egul ar cl umps of

oak ; above t hi s comes a br own- r ed bel t of r ough gr ound,

gr owi ng heat her and wi l d st r awber r i es ; and, agai n above

t hat , al l al ong t he br ow, ar e dense pi ne woods. The

const ant changes of col our whi ch t hi s sout her n sun br i ngs

out al l day l ong on t hi s hi l l si de make i t di f f i cul t t o br eak

away f r om one' s wi ndow and descend t o t he et abl i ssement

t o dr i nk wat er s and t ake bat hs. Thi s i nst i t ut i on l i es

down at t he bot t om of t he val l ey I have been de-

scr i bi ng, some 200 f eet bel ow t hi s wi ndow, and 150

f eet bel ow t he br oad t er r ace whi ch i s t hr own out f r om

t he gr ound - f l oor of t hi s hot el . Fr om t he t er r ace a

r ough zi gzag pat h l eads down t o t he br ook, whi ch

r ushes down f r om Eoyat vi l l age i n a successi on of

t i ny wat er f al l s, sendi ng up t o us al l day t he mur mur of

r unni ng wat er . On r eachi ng t he br ook' s bank, we have

about one hundr ed yar ds t o wal k by i t s si de, when,

cr ossi ng a good r oad whi ch r uns r ound i t , we r each t he

l ow wal l of t he par k, i n whi ch l i es t he bat hi ng est abl i sh-

ment . Fr om t hi s poi nt t he el ect r i c t r am- car s r un t o

Cl er mont , car r yi ng backwar ds and f or war ds f or t wo sous

bai gneur s and hol i day- f ol k enough, I shoul d say, t o pay

handsome di vi dends. Thi s par k occupi es t he whol e

br eadt h of t he val l ey, pushi ng back t he houses on ei t her

si de agai nst t he hi l l si des. I t s mai n bui l di ng, a handsome

st r uct ur e, bui l t of l ava, wi t h r ed- t i l ed r oof , cont ai ns al l

t he separ at e bat hs and a pi sci ne, or swi mmi ng bat h,

Page 195 of 259

besi des a good- si zed hal l f or sani t ar y gymnast i cs, and a

sal l e d' escr i me, i n whi ch a pr of essor i nst r uct s pupi l s dai l y

i n f enci ng and l e boxe. The br oad pat h r uns f r om t op t o

bot t om of t hi s par k, havi ng t hi s dabl i ssement bui l di ng on

i t s l ef t or nor t her n si de, and on i t s r i ght t wo par al l el

t er r aces, one above t he ot her . On t he l ower of t hese i s

t he gr eat sour ce, t he " Eugeni e, " whi ch bubbl es up her e i n

magni f i cent st yl e, sendi ng up some mi l l i ons of gal l ons

dai l y. Over t he Eugeni e sour ce i s a pavi l i on, wi t h open

Vacat i on Rambl es 315

si des and st r i ped r ed and whi t e cur t ai ns. A second

pavi l i on on t he same t er r ace, a l i t t l e l ower down, i s

devot ed t o t he band, whi ch pl ays ever y af t er noon f or t wo

or t hr ee hour s ; and bel ow t hat agai n, t he casi no. On

t he second or upper t er r ace ar e a f ew f avour ed chal et

shops, f or t he sal e of books, pi ct ur es, phot ogr aphs, and

t he pot t er y and bi j out er i e of Auver gne. Then, above

agai n, comes t he r oad whi ch encl oses t he par k, on t he

opposi t e si de of whi ch ar e t he r ow of l ar ge hot el s bui l t

agai nst t he r ocky si de of t he val l ey, and communi cat i ng at

t he back f r om t hei r upper st or i es wi t h t he r oad whi ch r uns

up t o Royat vi l l age. The r est of t he par k i s l ai d out i n l awns

and gar den- beds, f ul l of br i ght f l ower s and wal ks, amongst

whi ch ar e f ound t hr ee ot her sour ces — t he Caesar , t he St . Mar t ,

and t he St . Vi ct or , each of whi ch has i t s smal l dr i nki ng-

pavi l i on. I n f r ont of t hese sever al pavi l i ons and al ong t he

t er r aces ar e a pl ent i f ul suppl y of seat s, and chai r s whi ch you

can car r y about t o any spot you may sel ect under t he shade

of t he pl ane- t r ees and acaci as whi ch l i ne t he t er r aces and

wal ks, wi t h weepi ng- wi l l ows, chest nut s, and popl ar s happi l y

i nt er sper sed her e and t her e. The abundant wat er - suppl y

whi ch t he br ook br i ngs down i s wel l ut i l i sed, so t hat t he

whol e par k, some si x acr es i n ext ent , i s kept as f r esh and

gr een, and t he f l ower - beds as l uxur i ant and br i ght wi t h

col our , as i f i t wer e i n dear , damp Engl and. At t he

bot t om of t he par k, a handsome vi aduct of ar ches, bui l t

of l ava, spans t he val l ey, seemi ng t o shut Royat i n f r om

t he out er wor l d, and beyond, t he val l ey br oadens out i nt o

a wi de pl ai n, wi t h Cl er mont , t he capi t al of Auver gne, i n

t he f or egr ound, and beyond t he ci t y, st r et chi ng r i ght

away t o Swi t zer l and, a spl endi d sea ( as i t wer e) of cor n

and mai ze and vi nes and ol i ves, t he r i chest , i t i s sai d, i n

t he whol e of l a bel l e Fr ance. I t i s st at ed i n al l t he gui de-

books, and by t r ust wor t hy r esi dent s, t hat on a cl ear day

you may see Mont Bl anc f r om Royat , but as yet I have

not been l ucky enough.

Unl ess I have f ai l ed al t oget her i n descr i bi ng t he vi ew

whi ch l i es const ant l y bef or e me — f r om t he pi ne- cl ad hi l l -

3 1 6 Vacat i on Rambl es

si de over Royat vi l l age, wi t h i t s gr ay chur ch and whi t e r ed-

r oof ed houses t o t he west , away down over t he par k and

sur r oundi ng hot el s and shops, and vi aduct and ci t y and

pl ai n t o t he f ar east — you can now f ancy what i t must be

i n t he ear l y mor ni ng, when t he l i ght mi st i s l yi ng al ong

t he hi l l si des unt i l t he sun has had t i me t o di spose of t he

Page 196 of 259

cl ouds i n t he upper ai r , or at ni ght , when t he cl ear sky i s

t hi ck wi t h st ar s, and t he Nor t her n Li ght s f l ame up behi nd

t he si l ent vol cano opposi t e t hi s Hot el de Lyon. Ther e i s

no pl ace on ear t h, f r om t he back- sl ums of gr eat ci t i es

t o t he mount ai n- peak or mi d- ocean, t o whi ch ear l y mor ns

and eveni ng t wi l i ght s do not br i ng dai l y, or al most dai l y,

some t ouch of t he beaut y of l i ght - pi ct ur es whi ch sun and

moon and st ar s pai nt f or us so pat i ent l y, whet her we

heed t hem or no ; but t o get t hem i n t hei r f ul l per -

f ect i on, one shoul d be abl e t o l ook at t hem i n t he l i ght ,

dr y, war m ai r of such pl aces as t hese vol cani c hi ghl ands

of Auver gne.

And now f or t he l i f e we l ead i n t hi s ai r and scener y.

Ever y mor ni ng at si x I ar r i ve at t he Csesar spr i ng and

dr i nk t wo gl asses, wi t h t went y mi nut es' i nt er val bet ween

t hem. Then I cl i mb t he hi l l t o caf e 1 au l ai t and t wo

smal l r ol l s and but t er on t he t er r ace, whi ch comes of f

about 7 A. M. , as soon as t he l ast of our par t y of f our

has come up f r om t he par k. Rest t i l l el even f ol l ows,

when we have cUj euner a l a f our chel t e, whi ch, as we si t

down about a hundr ed, l ast s f or an hour . I n t he

af t er noon I dr i nk t wo gl asses at t he St . Mar t spr i ng, and

bet ween t hem have t went y mi nut es i n t he pi sci ne, whi ch

i s my gr eat t r eat of t he day. Goi ng punct ual l y at t wo,

when t he l adi es sur r ender t hi s swi mmi ng- bat h t o t he

men, I al most al ways get i t t o mysel f , and enj oy i t as I

used t o do year s ago, when my bl ood was war m enough,

l yi ng about amongst t he waves on t he Engl i sh coast , and

l et t i ng t hem j ust t umbl e and t oss me about as t hey woul d.

Thi s wat er comes war m f r om t he Eugeni e spr i ng dai l y, and

i s so buoyant t hat one can l i e per f ect l y st i l l on t he t op of

i t wi t h one' s hands behi nd one' s head ; and i f t her e wer e

Vacat i on Rambl es 3 1 7

no r oof t o t he pi sci ne, and one coul d onl y l ook st r ai ght up

al l t he t i me i nt o t he deep- bl ue sky, t wi ce as hi gh, so i t

l ooks, as our s i n Engl and, t he physi cal enj oyment woul d

be per f ect . I t i s not f ar f r om t hat as i t i s, and I

t hor oughl y sympat hi se wi t h Br owni ng' s Amphi bi an : —

Fr om wor l dl y noi se and dust ,

I n t he spher e whi ch over br i ms

Wi t h passi on and t hought — why, j ust

Unabl e t o f l y, one swi ms.

Koyat l es Bai ns

30t h August 1890.

I suppose t her e never was a gar den si nce Eden ( unl ess,

per haps, i n t he ear l y days of t he Jesui t set t l ement s i n

t he Par aguay) i n whi ch t he devi l has not had a t r ee or a

cor ner somewher e ; and i t woul d be wel l f or us al l i f he

wer e no mor e i n evi dence i n ot her heal t h and hol i day

r esor t s t han he i s her e i n t he par e. Hi s boot h i s at t he

end of t he mi ddl e t er r ace, a smal l pavi l i on, wel l shaded

by t al l acaci as, i n whi ch i n t he af t er noons you can r i sk a

Page 197 of 259

f r anc, occasi onal l y t wo, ever y mi nut e on t he cour se des

pet i t s chevaux. The cour se i s a r ound t abl e, wi t h ei ght or

t en concent r i c gr ooves, i n each of whi ch a smal l hor se

and j ockey r uns. Out si de t hi s cour se, wi t h r oom f or a

page- boy t o move r ound bet ween t he t wo, t her e i s a

sl i ght r ai l i ng wi t h a f l at t op, at whi ch t he pl ayer s si t

r ound and post t hei r st akes. These ar e col l ect ed by t he

page, who l et s each pl ayer dr aw a number i n exchange

f or t he f r ancs. As soon as he has made hi s ci r cui t , t he

cr oupi er gi ves a t ur n t o a handl e whi ch wor ks t he

machi ner y. The f i r st t ur n br i ngs al l t he hor ses i nt o l i ne,

and t he next st ar t s t hem r ound t he cour se, each i n hi s

own gr oove. Af t er anot her t ur n or t wo, t he cr oupi er

l et s go t he handl e, and t he puppet s begi n t o scat t er , t he

wi nner bei ng t he one whi ch passes t he post l ast bef or e

t he machi ne st ops, and t hey al l come t o a st andst i l l .

3 1 8 Vacat i on Rambl es

Then t he cr oupi er cal l s out t he wi nni ng number , and t he

owner get s al l t he st akes, except one, whi ch goes t o t he

t abl e. Beyond t hi s, t he Company has no i nt er est what -

ever , so i t i s sai d. Of cour se one l ooks wi t h j eal ousy at

ever y such game of chance, and I was i ncl i ned t o t hi nk

at f i r st t hat t he cr oupi er was i n l eague wi t h t wo women,

one spect acl ed, who sat st eadi l y at one end of t he pl ayer s,

pl ayi ng i n par t ner shi p, and seemi ng t o wi n of t en er t han

any of t he ot her s ; but t he l onger I wat ched, t he weaker

gr ew my suspi ci ons. Most of t he pl ayer s, by t he way,

ar e women, t hough t her e ar e a f ew men who come and

si t f or hour s, pl ayi ng and smoki ng ci gar et t es. Besi des

t he si t t er s many st r ol l er s come up, st ake t hei r f r ancs f or

a cour se or t wo, and t hen move on, not unf r equent l y

wi t h a handf ul of si l ver . On t he whol e, i f pl ay i s t o be

al l owed at al l , i t can scar cel y t ake a mor e har ml ess f or m,

i f onl y t he good- nat ur ed Fr ench papa coul d be kept f r om

l et t i ng hi s chi l dr en pl ay f or hi m. He comes up wi t h a

chi l d of t en or t wel ve year s, l et s t hem si t down, and

suppl i es t hem f r om behi nd wi t h t he necessar y f r ancs, and

af t er a r ound or t wo t he l i t t l e f aces f l ush and hands

shake, especi al l y i f t hey be gi r l s, i n a way whi ch i s pai n-

f ul t o see. A chi l d gambl i ng i s as sad a si ght , f or ever y

one but t he devi l and hi s el ect , as t hi s ol d wor l d can

show.

Next t o t he cour ses des pet i t s chevaux, at some t hi r t y

yar ds' di st ance, comes t he l ar ge pavi l i on i n whi ch t he

excel l ent band si t and pl ay f or an hour i n t he f or enoon

and af t er noon, and agai n at 8 P. M. Round t he pavi l i on

i s a br oad space, gr avel l ed and wel l shaded, and f ur ni shed

wi t h chai r s whi ch ar e occupi ed al l t he af t er noon by

bai gneur s and vi si t or s, most l y i n f ami l y gr oups, t he women

kni t t i ng or sewi ng, and t he chi l dr en pl ayi ng about i n t he

i nt er val s of t he musi c, and bef or e and af t er t he r egul ar

concer t s. Occasi onal l y t hey have a bed d' enf ant s i n t hi s

space, cont r ol l ed by a mast er of t he cer emoni es, a danci ng-

mast er , I am t ol d. Under hi m t he chi l dr en, boys and

gi r l s of t hi r t een or f our t een, down t o l i t t l e t r ot s who can

Vacat i on Rambl es 319

Page 198 of 259

scar cel y t oddl e, may enj oy pol kas, gal ops, and t he t ar an-

t ol e cl es post i l i ons, as wel l as t he gr avel al l ows ; and now

and agai n coni es a di f i U, i n whi ch, i n coupl es car ef ul l y

gr aduat ed accor di ng t o si ze and age, t he chi l dr en mar ch

r ound t he wal ks, and i n and out amongst t he appr ovi ng

si t t er s. A ver y pr et t y, and t o me r at her a cur i ous si ght ,

as I much doubt i f t he Engl i sh boy coul d be i nduced t o

per f or m such a mar ch, even i n t he hope of smal l packet s

of bonbons at t he end, whi ch ar e di st r i but ed t o t he best

per f or mer s.

The bi g or chest r al pl at f or m i n t hi s pavi l i on i s of t en

occupi ed, when t he band i s not pl ayi ng, by i t i ner ant

per f or mer s, who ( I suppose) hi r e i t f r om t he Company i n

t he hope of get t i ng a f ew f r ancs out of t he si t t i ng and

ci r cul at i ng cr owd. The per f or mances ar e poor , so f ar as

I have seen, t hough one conj ur er cer t ai nl y pl ayed a t r i ck

whi ch ent i r el y beat me at t he t i me, and f or whi ch I am

st i l l qui t e unabl e t o account . He pr oduced what he

cal l ed a gar ot t e, made of t wo st out pl anks whi ch shut one

upon anot her ( l i ke our ol d st ocks) , and i n whi ch was a

cent r al hol e f or t he neck, and t wo smal l er ones f or t he

wr i st s. Thi s gar ot t e he handed r ound, and t hough I di d

not get hol d of i t , I i nspect ed i t i n t he hands of a yout h

who was st andi ng j ust i n f r ont of me, and sat i sf i ed my -

sel f t hat t he pl anks wer e sol i d wood. Then he pl aced i t

on a st and, and cal l ed up a st out damsel i n t he f l esh-

col our ed t i ght s whi ch seem t o be de r i guew f or al l f emal e

per f or mer s, who knel t down and l ai d her neck i n t he bi g

hol e, and a wr i st i n each of t he smal l er ones. The con-

j ur er t hen l et down t he upper pl ank upon her , and havi ng

bor r owed a si gnet r i ng f r om an el der l y dkor e" Fr enchman

who was si t t i ng near t he pl at f or m, pr oceeded t o enci r cl e

t he t wo pl anks wi t h st r i ps of st out paper or t ape, whi ch

he seal ed wi t h t he r i ng. Then he hel d up a scr een f or

t he space of t went y seconds, and on l ower i ng i t t he

damsel was post ur i ng i n her t i ght s, whi l e t he gar ot t e r e-

mai ned i n si t u, wi t h t he t apes st i l l t her e and t he seal s

unbr oken. By what t r i ck she got her head and hands

320 Vacat i on Rambl es

out I was ut t er l y unabl e t o guess, and st r ol l ed away

wi t h t he r at her pr ovoki ng sense of havi ng been f ool ed

t hr ough my eyes. I hope a gr een par r ot who f l ew down

and sat on t he r ai l i ng cl ose t o t he gar ot t e, wi t h hi s head

wi sel y on one si de, f l ew of f bet t er sat i sf i ed.

Bel ow, on t he l owest t er r ace, at t he end of t he e' t abl i sse-

ment bui l di ngs, i s t he sal l e d' escr i me, whi ch i s open dai l y

i n t he af t er noons, when you may see t hr ough t he bi g

wi ndows t he " Mai t r e d' Escr i me, Pr of esseur de S. A. R. l e

Pr i nce des Gal l es, " si t t i ng r eady t o i nst r uct pupi l s, or , so

i t seemed, t o t r y a f r i endl y bout wi t h al l comer s. The

f or mer wer e gener al l y t oo much of mer e begi nner s t o

make any show wor t h seei ng, but on one day an awkwar d

cust omer t ur ned up who r an t he pr of essor , so f ar as I

coul d j udge, ver y har d. I ndeed, I am by no means sur e

t hat he acknowl edged sever al shr ewd hi t s, but my know-

Page 199 of 259

l edge of f enci ng i s t oo smal l t o make my j udgment

wor t h much. Le boxe i s al so announced t o go on her e,

but I have never seen t he gl oves put on yet . I ndeed, I

much doubt whet her young Fr enchmen r eal l y l i ke havi ng

t hei r heads punched f or l ove. I t i s an eccent r i ci t y whi ch

does not seem t o spr ead out of t he Br i t i sh I sl es. Ther e

was a t empt i ng assaut d' ar mes l ast Sunday, pr esi ded over

by Gener al Paquet t e, at whi ch el even mai t r es d' escr i me of

r egi ment s i n t hi s depar t ment , and one pr of essor f r om

Par i s wer e t o f ence. I was sor el y t empt ed t o go, but as

t he t her momet er st ood at 80° i n t he shade, and so r ei n-

f or ced my i nsul ar pr ej udi ces as t o t he day, abst ai ned.

Agai n, beyond t he Casi no, on t he upper t er r ace, i s a

good cr oquet - gr ound on t he br oad gr avel space at t he

l ower end of t he par e. I shoul d t hi nk i t a di f f i cul t

gr ound t o pl ay on, but as a r ul e t he Fr ench boys ar e

deci dedl y good pl ayer s, and seem t o enj oy t he game

t hor oughl y, and t o get r ound t he hoops qui cker t han any

of our s coul d do on a l awn l i ke a bi l l i ar d- t abl e. The

Casi no, besi des a r est aur ant and r eadi ng- r oom, cont ai ns a

t heat r e, at whi ch t her e ar e per f or mances f i ve ni ght s i n

t he week, and gener al l y a bal l on t he of f - ni ght s. These

Vacat i on. Rambl es 321

ar e of t en f ancy- bal l s, and al ways, I hear , ver y l i vel y ; but

I cannot speak f r om exper i ence, never havi ng as yet

descended ei t her t o t hem or t o t he pl ays and oper et t as.

When one can si t out on a t er r ace and see t he l i ght s

comi ng out i n t he val l ey, and t he Mi l ky Way and al l t he

st ar s i n t he heaven shi ni ng as t hey onl y do down Sout h,

even t he ar t i st s of t he Theat r e Fr ancai s, and. t he ot her

t heat r i cal st ar s who vi si t t he Casi no i n t he season, cannot

get me i ndoor s o' ni ght s, even at Casi no pr i ces. These

ar e ver y r easonabl e, t he abonnement f or a seat bei ng onl y

1 f r anc a ni ght , or 2 f r ancs f or a f aut eui l . Your

r eader s may per haps be abl e t o j udge of t he ki nd of

ent er t ai nment gi ven by a speci men. To- ni ght t her e ar e

t wo oper et t as, — Vi ol onnaux, musi c by Of f enbach ; and Les

Char bonneur s, musi c by G. Cost e. I own I never hear d

of ei t her of t he pi eces.

I t hi nk, si r , you wi l l al l ow t hat t her e ar e at t r act i ons

enough of al l ki nds pr ovi ded by t he Compagni e Anonyme

des Eaux Mi ner al es de Eoyat , who own t he par e and r un

t he busi ness. They can wel l af f or d i t , as ever y vi si t or

pays 10 f r ancs as an abonnement f or dr i nki ng t he wat er s,

and t he char ges f or bat hs ar e hi gh, e. g. 2. 50 f r ancs f or a

separ at e bat h, and 2 f r ancs f or t he swi mmi ng- bat h,

deci dedl y mor e t han any of our Engl i sh wat er i ng- pl aces,

not except i ng Bat h ; but one has so much mor e f un, i f

one want s i t , f or t he money. And t hen t her e i s t hi s

i mmense t hi ng t o be sai d f or t hi s Eoyat Company, — t hei r

par k i s ent i r el y f r ee and open t o any one who car es t o

wal k t hr ough i t . I have seen scor es of peasant s i n

bl ouses, and t hei r wi ves, si t t i ng about dur i ng t he concer t s,

not on t he same t er r ace wi t h t he band, wher e a sou i s

char ged f or chai r s, but near enough t o hear t he musi c

per f ect l y ; and one meet s t hem al l about t he gar den,

wal ki ng and chat t i ng amongst t he — I was goi ng t o wr i t e

" wel l dr essed, " but t hat t hey ar e not , but emi nent l y

Page 200 of 259

r espect abl e, i f r at her dowdy — cr owds of bat her s and

vi si t or s. I do not , of cour se, mean t hat t her e ar e no

except i ons, ei t her i n t he case of dowdi ness or r espect -

Y

322 Vacat i on Rambl es

abi l i t y, but t hey ar e r ar e enough t o pr ove t he r ul e. On

t he ot her hand, t he number of r el i gi ous of bot h sexes i s

r emar kabl e who come t o use t he wat er s, pr i nci pal l y f or

t hr oat ai l ment s. Si st er s of sever al ki nds, some wear i ng

bl ack hoods wi t h whi t e br east pl at es, ot her s i n l ar ge whi t e

head- dr esses, wi t h l ong haps, l i ke a bi r d' s wi ngs, whi ch f l ap

as t hey wal k, ar e f r equent i n t he ear l y mor ni ngs and

ot her qui et t i mes ; and besi des t he r egul ar cl er gy, t her e

ar e t hr ee monki sh or der s r epr esent ed. Of t hese t he most

st r i ki ng ar e t wo Fr anci scans, I bel i eve, cl ad i n r ough,

r uddy- br own f l annel gowns, r eachi ng t o t he gr ound, wi t h

l ar ge r osar i es hangi ng bef or e and cowl s behi nd, and gi r t

wi t h knot t ed r opes. Pet er t he Her mi t pr eached t he Fi r st

Cr usade i n t he nei ghbour i ng Chur ch of St . Mar y of t he

por t at Cl er mont , assi st ed doubt l ess by many a f r i ar

cl ad pr eci sel y as t hese ar e, except t hat t he moder n monk

or f r i ar ( as I was di sappoi nt ed t o not e, at any r at e i n one

case) does not go bar e- f oot ed, or even i n sandal s, but i n

subst ant i al shoes and t r ouser s ! I was much st r uck by

t he qui et , pat i ent , and r ever ent expr essi on on al l t he

f aces, ver y di f f er ent f r om what I r emember i n past year s.

Per secut i on may ver y wel l account , however , f or t hi s.

Ther e i s no br anch, I t ake i t , of t he Chur ch Uni ver sal

whi ch does not t hr i ve under i t , i n t he best sense.

AUVERGNE EN FETE

<6t h Sept ember 1890.

These good f ol k of Auver gne seem t o get much mor e

f un, or at l east much mor e pl ay, out of l i f e t han we do ;

at any r at e, t hey have been t wi ce en f et e i n t he t hr ee

weeks we have been her e. I suppose i t i s because we

have i n t hi s busi ness cut down our sai nt s t i l l we have

onl y St . Lubbock l ef t , wi t h hi s quar t er l y hol i day, whi l e

t hey, mor e wi sel y, have st uck t o t he ol d cal endar . But

i t seems al l wr ong t hat t hey, who get f i ve t i mes as much

sun as we, shoul d al so get t hr ee or f our t i mes as many

Vacat i on Rambl es 323

hol i days ; f or sunshi ne i s sur el y of i t sel f a sor t of equi v -

al ent f or a hol i day. Per haps, however , i f we had l ot s of

i t , t he nat i onal " doggedness as does i t " mi ght wear out .

That val uabl e, but unpl easant char act er i st i c coul d scar cel y

have l eavened a nat i on l i vi ng i n a geni al cl i mat e ; but ,

wi t h about hal f Af r i ca on our hands, i n addi t i on t o

I r el and and ot her t r i f l es al l r ound t he wor l d, t he comi ng

gener at i on wi l l need t he " dogged as does i t " even mor e

t han t hei r f at her s. So l et us si ng wi t h Char l es Ki ngsl ey,

Page 201 of 259

" Hai l t o t hee, Nor t h- East er , " or wi t h t he ol d AVi l t shi r e

shepher d, cl ai m t hat t he Aveat her i n Engl and must be,

anyhow, " sech as pl aazes God A' mi ght y, and wut pl aazes

He pl aazes I . "

Det er mi ned t o see al l t he f un of t he f ai r , a f r i end and

I st ar t ed f or Cl er mont f r om Eoyat by t he el ect r i c t r am-

way, and r eached t he Pl ace de Jaude i n a f ew mi nut es —

t he " For um Cl er mont oi s, " as i t i s cal l ed i n t he l ocal gui de-

books — t he l ar gest open space i n t he anci ent capi t al of

Auver gne. I t i s a f amous pl ace f or a f ai r , bei ng near l y

t he si ze and shape of Eat on Squar e, wi t h t wo r ows of

pl ane- t r ees r unni ng r ound i t , but ot her wi se unencl osed.

As we al i ght ed f r om t he t r am- car , we coul d see a l ong l i ne

of boot hs, wi t h pr odi gi ous pi ct ur es i n f r ont of t hem, and

pl at f or ms on whi ch bands wer e pl ayi ng and act or s gest i cu-

l at i ng ; but bef or e st ar t i ng on our t our , we wer e at t r act ed

by a cr owd cl ose t o t he st oppi ng- pl ace of t he car s. I t

pr oved t o be a r i ng, f our or f i ve deep, r ound t he car pet

of at hl et es. They wer e t wo, a man and a woman, bot h

i n t he usual f l esh- col our ed t i ght s, t he l at t er wi t hout any

pr et ence of a ski r t . The man was wal ki ng r ound, chang-

i ng t he pl aces of t he wei ght s and cl ubs, unt i l suf f i ci ent

sous had been t hr own on t o t he car pet , t he woman

scr eeni ng her f ace f r om t he sun wi t h a bi g f an, and t al k -

i ng wi t h her near est nei ghbour s i n t he r i ng. She was a

r emar kabl y f i ne young woman, wi t h wel l - cut f eat ur es, and

a snake- head on a neck l i ke a col umn ; and, st r ange t o

say, her expr essi on was as modest and qui et as t hough

pi nk t i ght s wer e t he or di nar y wal ki ng- dr ess on t he Pl ace

324 Vacat i on Rambl es

de Jaude. The necessar y sous wer e soon car pet ed, and

t he per f or mance began. I t was j ust t he usual t hi ng,

l i f t i ng and cat chi ng heavy wei ght s, wi el di ng cl ubs, et c. ,

t he onl y novel t y bei ng t hat a woman shoul d be one of

t he per f or mer s. She f ol l owed t he man, doi ng sever al

f eat s wi t h heavy wei ght s whi ch wer e pai nf ul t o wi t ness,

and we passed on t o t he r ow of boot hs. The aver age

pr i ce f or ent r ance was 2i - sous, but af t er exper i ment i ng

on t he t wo f i r st , we agr eed t hat i n such a t emper at ur e

t he out si de was deci dedl y t he best par t of t he show.

These t wo wer e some I ndi an dancer s, mal e and f emal e,

who st ood up one af t er anot her and post ur ed f r om t he

hi ps, and waved scar f s, t he r est beat i ng t i me on banj os ;

and a " Mi ss Fl or a, dor npt euse, " a snake- t amer . Fr om t hi s

announcement over t he boot h ent r ance we r at her ex-

pect ed t o f i nd a count r ywoman, but t he per f or mer was a

squat l i t t l e Fr enchwoman, i n t he same shi r t l ess t i ght s,

who t ook some sl eepy snakes out of a box, put t hem

r ound her neck, and t hen want ed t o make us pay a

second t i me, whi ch we decl i ned t o do. The next boot h

ought t o have been amusi ng, but no boys came t o pl ay

whi l e we st opped. I t was announced as " Le Massacr e

dTnnocent s. " A number of t hese " I nnocent " puppet s

l ooked out of a r ow of hol es i n a l ar ge wooden f r ame,

not mor e t han ei ght f eet f r om t he r ai l i n f r ont of i t .

St andi ng behi nd t hi s r ai l t he pl ayer , on payi ng 5

cent i mes, i s handed a sof t bal l , whi ch he can di schar ge at

any one of t he I nnocent s he may sel ect , and " chaque

bonhomme r enver se gagne une demi - douzai ne de bi scui t s. "

Page 202 of 259

I suppose t he bi scui t s wer e bad, as ot her wi se t he absence

of boys seemed i ncr edi bl e. Any Engl i sh l ower - school boy

woul d have br ought down a bonhomme at t hat di st ance

wi t h ever y bal l , unl ess t he bal l s wer e somehow doct or ed.

But no boy t ur ned up ; so we passed on t o t he bi ggest

boot h i n t he f ai r , wi t h pi ct ur es of wondr ous beast s and

her oi c men and women over t he pl at f or m, on whi ch a bi g

dr um and cl ar i onet i nvi t ed ent r ance, i n st r ai ns whi ch

dr owned t hose of al l t he nei ghbour i ng boot hs. We r ead

Vacat i on Rambl es 325

t hat i nsi de a " Musee hi st or i que, dest r uct i ve, et amusant "

was on show, but cont ent ed our sel ves wi t h t he pi ct ur es

out si de.

Faci ng t he ot her si de of t he pl ace, wi t h t hei r backs t o

t he l ar ger boot hs al ong whi ch we had come, wer e a r ow

of humbl er st al l s and boot hs, most of t he l at t er bei ng

devot ed t o some ki nd of gambl i ng. Ther e wer e t hr ee or

f our cour ses des pet i t s chevaux, not so wel l appoi nt ed as t he

per manent one i n t he Eoyat Par k, but on t he same l i nes,

and a number of hazar d- boar ds and ot her t abl es, about

t he si ze of t hose whi ch t he t hi mbl e- r i gger s used t o car r y-

about at Engl i sh f ai r s. These l ast wer e new t o me.

They have a hol l ow r i m r ound t hem, i nt o whi ch t he

pl ayer put s a l ar ge mar bl e, whi ch r uns out on t o t he f ace

of t he t abl e, whi ch i s mar ked al l over wi t h number s, si x

or ei ght t owar ds t he cent r e bei ng r ed, and t he r est bl ack.

I f t he mar bl e st ops on one of t hese r ed number s, t he

pl ayer wi ns ; i f on a bl ack one, t he t abl e wi ns. The

odds seemed t o be mor e t han t went y t o one agai nst t he

pl ayer ; but i f so, t he t abl es woul d sur el y be l ess cr owded.

As i t was, t hey di d a mer r y t r ade, never f or a moment

want i ng a pl ayer whi l e we l ooked on. Most of t hese

wer e sol di er s of t he gar r i son, i nt er sper sed wi t h peasant s

i n bl ouses, who dr agged out t hei r sous wi t h ever y t oken

of di sgust and r esent ment , but seemed qui t e unabl e t o

get away f r om t he t abl es. On t he whol e, af t er wat chi ng

f or some t i me, I was conf i r med i n t he bel i ef t hat we ar e

r i ght i n put t i ng down gambl i ng i n al l publ i c pl aces.

Not hi ng, I suppose, can st op i t ; but t her e i s no good i n

t hr ust i ng t he t empt at i on under t he noses of boys and f ool s.

Af t er maki ng t he r ound of t he f ai r , we st r ol l ed up

t he hi l l t o t he Cat hedr al , whi ch domi nat es t he ci t y, and

l ooks out over as f ai r and r i ch a pr ospect as t he wor l d

has t o show. Br assey, when he was bui l di ng one of t he

r ai l ways acr oss La Li magne, t he pl ai n whi ch st r et ches

away east of Cl er mont , i s r epor t ed t o have sai d t hat i f

Fr ance wer e ut t er l y bankr upt , t he sur f ace val ue of her

soi l woul d set her on her l egs agai n i n t wo year s ; and

326 Vacat i on Rambl es

one can qui t e bel i eve hi m. The st r eet s of t he ol d t own,

whi ch sur r ounds t he Cat hedr al , ar e nar r ow and st eep, but

f ul l of ol d houses of r ar e ar chi t ect ur al i nt er est . Many of

t hem must have bel onged t o gr eat f ol k, whose ar ms ar e

st i l l t o be seen over t he door s, i nsi de t he qui et cour t s

Page 203 of 259

t hr ough whi ch you ent er f r om t he st r eet s. I n t hese one

coul d see, as we passed, l i t t l e gr oups of gossi ps, kni t t i ng,

smoki ng, " causer - mg. " The pet i t bour geoi s has succeeded

t o t he nobl e, and now enj oys t hose gr and, br oad st ai r cases

and st one bal coni es. They f or m an excel l ent set t i ng t o

t he Cat hedr al , i t sel f a gr and speci men of Nor man Got hi c,

begun by Hugues de l a Tour , t he si xt y- si xt h bi shop,

bef or e hi s depar t ur e f or t he Cr usades, and f i ni shed by

Vi ol l et - l e- Duc, who onl y compl et ed t he t wi n spi r es i n

1877. But i nt er est i ng as t he Cat hedr al i s, i t i s ecl i psed

by t he Chur ch of Not r e Dame du Por t , t he ol dest bui l d-

i ng i n Cl er mont . I t dat es f r om t he si xt h cent ur y, when

t he f i r st chur ch was bui l t on t he si t e by St . Avi t us,

ei ght eent h bi shop. Thi s was bur nt 853 A. D. , and r e-

bui l t by St . Si gon, f or t y- t hi r d bi shop, i n 870. Bur nt

agai n, i t was agai n r ebui l t as i t st ands t o- day, i n t he

el event h cent ur y. I n i t Pet er t he Her mi t i s sai d t o have

pr eached t he Fi r st Cr usade, when t he Counci l cal l ed by

Pope Ur ban I I . was si t t i ng at Cl er mont . Whet her t hi s

be so or not , i t i s by f ar t he most per f ect and i nt er est i ng

speci men of t he ear l i est Got hi c known t o me ; and t he

cr ypt under neat h t he chancel i s uni que. I t i s speci al l y

dedi cat ed t o St . Mar y du Por t , and over t he al t ar i s t he

smal l st at ue of t he Vi r gi n and Chi l d, ar ound and bef or e

whi ch vot i ve of f er i ngs of al l ki nds — cr osses and mi l i t ar y

decor at i ons, br acel et s, j ewel s, t r i nket s, many of t hem, I

shoul d t hi nk, of l ar ge val ue — hang and l i e. The smal l

i mage has no beaut y what ever — i n f act , i s j ust a pl ai n

bl ack dol l — but of unt ol d val ue t o many gener at i ons of

Auver noi s, who r egar d i t as a t al i sman whi ch has, agai n

and agai n, pr eser ved t hei r ci t y f r om swor d and pest i l ence.

I am not sur e whet her , amongst t he smal l mar bl e t abl et s

whi ch l i t er al l y cover t he wal l s, one may not be f ound i n

Vacat i on Rambl es 327

memor y of t he gr eat f i ght of Ger govi a, i n whi ch Ver ci nge-

t or i x, i f he di d not act ual l y def eat Caesar , t ur ned t he

gr eat capt ai n and hi s Roman l egi ons away f r om t hi s par t

of Gaul . At any r at e, amongst t he most pr omi nent , i s

one i nscr i bed wi t h t he names " Coul mi er s, " " Pat ay, "

" Le Mans, " t he bat t l es whi ch i n 1870- 71 st ayed t he

Ger man advance on Cl er mont , and saved t he capi t al of

Auver gne. The r est ar e, f or t he most par t , pr i vat e

t abl et s, t hanksgi vi ngs f or t he cur e of al l manner of si ck -

ness and di sease t o whi ch f l esh i s hei r . To t hi s shr i ne

al l suf f er er s have come i n t he f ai t h whi ch f i nds a voi ce al l

r ound t hese ol d wal l s, — " Qu' on est heur eux d' avoi r Mar i e

pour mer e " ! That human i nst i nct whi ch l ongs f or a

f emal e pr ot ect r i x and medi at or " behi nd t he vei l , " speaks

her e, t oo, as i t di d 2000 year s ago, when t he ayaXf i a

i ' Ai v ov ' Adr p' r j s d\ e i Ko. Kov guar ded t he s hr i nes of At hens

and her c ol oni es .

SCOPPI O DEL CaRRO

Fl or enc e, Fas t er Ev e, 1891.

I hav e j us t c ome bac k f r om wi t nes s i ng an ex t r a-

or di nar y , and, I s houl d t hi nk , a uni que c er emony , whi c h

Page 204 of 259

i s enac t ed her e on Eas t er Ev e ; and, on s i t t i ng down

qui et l y t o t hi nk i t ov er , c an s c ar c el y s ay whet her I am

mos t i nc l i ned t o l augh, or t o c r y , or t o s wear . I n t r ut h,

t he " Sc oppi o del Car r o " — or " ex pl os i on of t he f i r ewor k s "

— as i t i s c al l ed, i s a c ur i ous c omment on, or i l l us t r at i on

of , y our l as t week ' s r emar k s on Super s t i t i ons . " The

car ef ul l y pr es er v ed dr y hus k of out war d obs er v anc e " i n

t hi s c as e undoubt edl y s peak s , t o t hos e who hav e ear s t o

hear , of a her oi c t i me, and t he s pec t at or r ubs hi s ey es ,

and f eel s s omehow —

As t hough he l ook ed upon t he s heat h

Whi c h onc e had c l as ped Ex c al i bur .

At any r at e, t hat i s r at her how I f el t , as , s t andi ng at noon

i n t he dens e c r owd i n t he nav e of t he Duomo, I s aw t he

328 Vac at i on Rambl es

pr oc es s i on pas s wi t hi n a f ew f eet of me, on t hei r way f r om

t he gr eat ent r anc e up t o t he hi gh al t ar , whi c h was abl az e

al r eady wi t h many t al l c andl es . Al t hough wi t hi n a f ew

f eet , t he i nt er v eni ng c r owd was s o t hi c k t hat I c oul d onl y

see t he heads and s houl der s of t he t al l er c hor i s t er s and

pr i es t s as t hey pas s ed ; but I s aw pl ai nl y enough, t hough

t he wear er was l ow of s t at ur e, t he t al l mi t r e — i t l ook ed

l i k e gol d — whi c h t he Ar c hbi s hop wor e as he wal k ed i n t he

pr oc es s i on. Our bi s hops , I am t ol d, ar e wear i ng or goi ng

t o wear t hem ( Heav en s av e t he mar k ! ) , whi c h made me

cur i ous . They t hr eaded t hei r way s l owl y up t o t he hi gh

al t ar ; and pr es ent l y we hear d i n t he di s t anc e i nt oni ng

and c hant s ; and t hen, af t er br i ef paus e, t he dov e ( s o c al l ed)

st ar t ed f r om t he c r uc i f i x , I t hi nk , at any r at e f r om a hi gh

poi nt on t he al t ar , f or t he open door . But i n or der t o be

cl ear as t o what t he dov e c ar r i es and i s s uppos ed t o do,

we mus t go bac k t o t he Sec ond Cr us ade.

I gi v e t he s t or y as I mak e i t out by c ompar i ng t he

ac c ount s i n v ar i ous gui de- book s wi t h t hos e of r es i dent s

i nt er es t ed i n s uc h mat t er s . Thes e di f f er muc h i n det ai l ,

but not as t o t he mai n f ac t s . Thes e ar e, t hat i n 1147

A. D. a Fl or ent i ne nobl e of t he Paz z i f ami l y , Rani er o by

name, j oi ned, s ome s ay l ed, t he 2500 Tus c ans who went

on t he Cr us ade. I n any c as e, he gr eat l y di s t i ngui s hed

hi ms el f by hi s c our age, and i s s ai d t o hav e pl ant ed t he

f i r s t s t andar d of t he Cr os s on t he wal l s of J er us al em. For

t hi s he was al l owed t o t ak e a l i ght f r om t he s ac r ed f i r e on

t he Hol y Sepul c hr e, whi c h he des i r ed t o c ar r y bac k t o hi s

muc h- l ov ed F' or enc e. An abs ur d par t of t he l egend now

comes i n. Fi ndi ng t he wi nd t r oubl es ome as he r ode wi t h

t he l i ght , he t ur ned r ound, wi t h hi s f ac e t o hi s hor s e' s t ai l

( as i f t he wi nd al way s bl ew i n Cr us ader s ' f ac es ) , and s o at

l as t br ought i t s af el y home, wher e hi s ungr at ef ul f el l ow-

ci t i z ens , when t hey s aw hi m c ome r i di ng i n t hi s f as hi on,

cal l ed out , " Paz z o! " " Paz z o! " or " Mad! " whi c h hi s

f ami l y f or t hwi t h wi s el y adopt ed as t hei r pat r ony mi c .

The s ac r ed f i r e was hous ed i n a s hr i ne i n St . Bi agi o,

bui l t by Rani er o, and has nev er been al l owed t o go out

Page 205 of 259

Vac at i on Rambl es 329

si nc e t hat day — s o i t i s s ai d — and f r om i t y ear l y ar e

r el i ght ed al l t he c andl es us ed i n Fl or ent i ne c hur c hes at

t he Eas t er f es t i v al . I t i s a s t r i k i ng c us t om. Gr adual l y ,

dur i ng t he Good Fr i day s er v i c es , t he l i ght s ar e ex -

t i ngui s hed i n t he Duomo, and al l t he c hur c hes , t i l l at

mi dni ght t hey ar e i n dar k nes s , and ar e onl y r el i t nex t day

by f i r e br ought ev en y et by a Paz z i , a des c endant of

Rani er o, f r om St . Bi agi o. Thi s i s , howev er , doubt f ul ,

some aut hor i t i es as s er t i ng t hat t he f ami l y i s ex t i nc t ,

ot her s t hat i t not onl y ex i s t s , but s t i l l s pends 2000 l i r e a

year i n pr es er v i ng t he s ac r ed f i r e. A s t r anger has no

means t hat I k now of , of s i f t i ng out t he f ac t . Any how,

I c an t es t i f y t hat s omehow t he f i r e i s i n t he Duomo bef or e

noon, as any number of c andl es wer e al i ght on t he hi gh

al t ar when I got t her e at 11. 30, hal f an hour bef or e t he

pr oc es s i on. Any t hi ng mor e or der l y t han t he gr eat c r owd

I hav e nev er s een. I t was of al l nat i ons , l anguages , and

r ank s , t hough t he gr eat maj or i t y wer e Tus c an peas ant s

wi t h t hei r f ami l i es f r om al l t he s ur r oundi ng c ount r y ,

wai t i ng i n eager ex pec t at i on f or t he f l i ght of t he dov e

f r om t he hi gh al t ar , t hr ough t he door s t o t he gr eat c ar

whi c h s t ands wai t i ng out s i de at t he bot t om of t he

br oad s t eps i n f r ont of t he Duomo. I f t he dov e mak es a

suc c es s f ul f l i ght , and l i ght s t he f i r ewor k s whi c h ar e hung

r ound t he c ar , t her e wi l l be a good har v es t and abundanc e

of wi ne and oi l , and of or anges and l emons . Thi s y ear

t he f ac es of t he peas ant s and t hei r wi v es and c hi l dr en —

and mos t at t r ac t i v e br own f ac es t hey wer e — wer e anx i ous ,

f or i t had been r ai ni ng har d i n t he mor ni ng, and s t i l l dr ops

wer e f al l i ng. Howev er , al l went wel l . At about 12. 10

t he c hant i ng c eas ed, and t he dov e — a s mal l f i r ewor k of t he

r oc k et genus — r us hed down t he nav e, s ome t en f eet ov er

our heads , al ong a t hi n wi r e whi c h I had not not i c ed bef or e,

and s et l i ght pr ompt l y t o t he f i r ewor k s on t he c ar , whi c h

began t o t ur n and ex pl ode, not wi t hout c ons i der abl e

f i z z i ng and s pl ut t er i ng, but on t he whol e s uc c es s f ul l y .

Then t he dov e t ur ned and c ame bac k , s t i l l al i ght , and

l eav i ng a t r ai l of s par k s as i t s ped al ong, t o t he hi gh

330 Vac at i on Rambl es

al t ar . How i t was r ec ei v ed t her e, and what bec ame of i t ,

I c annot s ay , as I was s wept al ong i n t he r us h t o t he

door s whi c h i mmedi at el y f ol l oAv ed, and had enough t o do

t o pi l ot my c ompani on, a l ady , t o t he new c ent r e of

i nt er es t . Thi s was t he c ar t o whi c h t he s ac r ed f i r e had

now been t r ans f er r ed, and whi c h was about t o s t ar t on i t s

r ound t o t he ot her c hur c hes . I t i s c hoc ol at e- c ol our ed, and

spangl ed wi t h s t ar s , s ome t went y f eet hi gh, s ur mount ed by

a l ar ge c r own and Cat her i ne- wheel . As our c r owd s wept

out of t he Duomo and down t he s t eps , t o mi ngl e wi t h t he

st i l l l ar ger c r owd out s i de, men wer e r ehangi ng t he c ar

wi t h f r es h f i r ewor k s , and put t i ng- t o f our mi ght y whi t e

ox en, gai l y gar l anded. I r emar k ed t hat t he c onduc t or , a

t al l , s i x - f oot man, c oul d not l ook ov er t he s houl der of one

of t hes e s haf t - ox en as he was har nes s i ng hi m i n t he s haf t s !

Ther e c oul d be no ques t i on as t o t he v er y bes t pl ac e

f or s pec t at or s . I t was t he c ent r e of t he t op s t ep l eadi ng

up t o t he Duomo f ac ade ; and, f i ndi ng our s el v es t her e, we

st opped and l et t he c r owd s ur ge pas t us . Al mos t at onc e

Page 206 of 259

I became awar e t hat t hi s f avour ed spot was occupi ed by

t he Engl i sh- speaki ng r ace al most excl usi vel y, t he accent

of cousi n Jonat han, I t hi nk, on t he whol e pr edomi nat i ng.

Two I t al i an boys l ooked up at us wi t h l ar ge, l ust r ous

br own eyes ; ot her wi se t he nat i ves wer e absent . I t seems

l i ke a sor t of l aw of soci al gr avi t at i on, t hat i n t hese l at t er

days t he speaker s of our l anguage shoul d get i nt o al l t he

wor l d' s best pl aces, and havi ng got t her e shoul d st op.

One cannot much wonder t hat t he speaker s i n ot her

t ongues shoul d f eel now and t hen as i f t hey wer e bei ng

r at her cr owded out . We di d not pur sue t he car as i t

l umber ed away under t he gl or i ous campani l e, sur r ounded

by t he r ej oi ci ng mul t i t ude, f or t he sun had now got t he

upper hand, and t he whol e ci t y and pl ai n r i ght away t o

t he l ower hi l l s, and t he snow- capped Apenni nes i n t he

backgr ound, wer e agl ow wi t h t he sor t of subdued pur pl e

or amet hyst l i ght whi ch seems t o me t o di f f er ent i at e

Tuscany f r om al l ot her count r i es known t o me. Now,

gr adual l y t o put out al l t he l i ght s i n t he chur ches on

Vacat i on Rambl es 331

Good Fr i day, and t o r el i ght t hem f r om f i r e f r om t he Hol y -

Sepul chr e next day, seems t o me a wor t hy and pat het i c

cust om ; but t hi s mi xi ng i t up wi t h t he f i r ewor k busi ness,

and havi ng t he Bi shop and al l t he st r engt h of t he

Cat hedr al out t o hel p i n t hi s dove t r i ck, spoi l s t he whol e

t hi ng, and makes one wi sh one had not gone t o see i t ,

r ecal l i ng t oo f or ci bl y, as i t does t o an Engl i shman, t he

Cr yst al Pal ace on a f i r ewor ks' ni ght , and t he si mi l ar

" dove " whi ch t r avel s f r om t he Eoyal Gal l er y, wher e t oo-

wel l - f ed ci t i zens and ot her s si t smoki ng, t o l i ght t he gr eat

" concer t ed pi ece " i n t he gr ounds bel ow. I t was l i ke

i nser t i ng " Abr acadabr a! " i n t he mi ddl e of t he " Mi ser er e. "

P. S. — 1 Si nce wr i t i ng t he above, we have had an ar r i val

i n Fl or ence whi ch wi l l i nt er est your r eader s, — t o wi t , f i f t y

young per sons of bot h sexes f r om Toynbee Hal l , wi t h Mr .

Bol t on Ki ng as conduct or ; and t he Engl i sh communi t y

ar e doi ng al l t hey can t o make t hei r st ay pl easant . On

t he mor r ow of t hei r ar r i val Lady Hobar t ent er t ai ned

t hem at her vi l l a of Mont aut o, t he one i n whi ch Haw-

t hor ne wr ot e Tr ansf or mat i on. I t i s a t hi r t eent h- cent ur y

house, or , I shoul d r at her say, t hat t he vi l l a, wi t h i t s

l ar ge, ai r y sui t e of r ooms, wi t h vaul t ed cei l i ngs, has gr own

r ound a machi col at ed t ower of t hat dat e, t he hi ghest

bui l di ng on t he Bel l osquar do Hi l l , t o t he sout h- west of

t he ci t y. Fr om t he t op of i t , r eached by r at her r i cket y

and casual ol d st ai r s, t her e i s, I shoul d t hi nk, as gl or i ous

a vi ew as t he wor l d can show, — a per f ect panor ama, wi t h

Fl or ence l yi ng r i ght bel ow, and beyond, Fi esol e and

Val l ombr osa, and t he vi l l age of st one- cut t er s on t he sl ope

of t he Apenni nes, whi ch r ear ed t he gr eat est of st one-

cut t er s, Mi chael Angel o, and beyond, t he hi ghest

Apenni nes, st i l l snow- cover ed ; and t o t he nor t h, t he

r i ch pl ai n of vi neyar ds, and ol i ve- gr oves, and or ange

and l emon gar dens, t hi ckl y spr i nkl ed wi t h t he br i ght

whi t e houses of t he peasant cul t i vat or s and t he gr acef ul

campani l es of vi l l age chur ches, beyond whi ch one coul d

see cl ear l y on t hi s " whi t e- st one" day t he snow- cl ad peaks

of t he Car r ar a Mount ai ns i n t he f ar nor t h. I can har dl y

Page 207 of 259

33 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

say whet her t he Toynbee vi si t or s, or t hose who wer e

gat her ed t o wel come t hem by t he hospi t abl e host ess,

enj oyed t he unr i val l ed vi ew most ; but t hi s we soon di s -

cover ed, t hat t he vi si t or s wer e about as wel l acquai nt ed

wi t h t he st or y of each poi nt of i nt er est , as i t was poi nt ed

out t o t hem, as t he ol dest r esi dent . Sur el y t he school -

mast er i s at l ast abr oad wi t h us i n Engl and i n many ways

of whi ch we have good r i ght t o f eel pr oud, and f or whi ch

we may wel l be t hankf ul .

A Scamper at East er

8t h Apr i l 1893.

No one can di sl i ke mor e t han I t he habi t whi ch has

become so common of l at e year s amongst us — t hanks, or

r at her no t hanks, t o Mr . Gl adst one — of r unni ng down

our own Engl i sh ways of deal i ng wi t h al l cr eat i on, f r om

I r i shmen t o bl ack- beet l es. I bel i eve, on t he cont r ar y, t hat

on t he whol e t her e i s not , nor ever was, a nat i on t hat kept

a mor e act i ve consci ence, or t r i ed mor e honest l y t o do t he

r i ght t hi ng al l r ound accor di ng t o i t s l i ght s. Never t he-

l ess, I am bound t o admi t t hat our met hods don' t al ways

succeed, as, f or i nst ance, wi t h our t r eat ment of our " sub-

mer ged t ent h, " i f t hat i s t he accept ed name f or t he sect i on

of our peoj Dl e whi ch Mr . C. Boot h, i n hi s excel l ent Li f e

and Labour i n London, pl aces i n hi s A and B cl asses ( and

whi ch, by t he way, ar e onl y 8 - 2, and not 10 per cent ) , or

wi t h our seagul l s. Some year s ago I cal l ed your r eader s'

at t ent i on t o t he r api d demor al i sat i on of t hese beaut i f ul

bi r ds at one of our nor t her n wat er i ng- pl aces ; how t hey

j ust f l oat ed past t he pi er - heads hour af t er hour , wai t i ng

f or t he dol es whi ch t he hol i day f ol k and t hei r chi l dr en

br ought down f or t hem i n paper - bags. Our sea - goi ng

gul l s, I r egr et t o not e, ar e now si mi l ar l y af f ect ed. At

any r at e, some f or t y of t hem di l i gent l y f ol l owed t he

st eamer i n whi ch I sai l ed f or my East er hol i day, f r om t he

Li ver pool docks t i l l we dr opped our pi l ot and t ur ned due

Vacat i on Rambl es 333

sout h of f Hol yhead. By t hat t i me our l ast meal had been

eat en and t he r emai ns cast i nt o t he sea. The gul l s

seemed t o be qui t e awar e of t hi s ; and we l ef t t hem

squabbl i ng over t he l ast scr aps of f i sh and pot at oes, or

l oaf i ng sl owl y back t o Li ver pool . Thi r t y- si x hour s l at er

we ent er ed t he Gar onne, and st eamed si xt y mi l es up i t t o

Bor deaux. For al l t hat di st ance t her e wer e pl ent y of

Fr ench gul l s on t he wat er or i n t he ai r , but , so f ar f r om

f ol l owi ng us, not one of t hem seemed t o t ake t he l east

not i ce of us, but al l went on qui et l y wi t h t hei r f i shi ng or

cour t i ng ; and yet our cook' s mat e must have t hr own out

as much br oken vi ct ual s af t er br eakf ast i n t he Gar onne

as he di d af t er l uncheon or di nner on t he Wel sh coast . I t

cannot be because t he Fr ench gul l s ar e Republ i cans, f or

t he Republ i c has, i f anyt hi ng, i ncr eased t he nat i onal

appet i t e f or unear ned l oaves and f i shes. I t i s cer t ai nl y

ver y odd ; but , anyhow, I hope our gul l s wi l l not t ake t o

Page 208 of 259

mor e sel f - r espect i ng ways of l i f e, f or i t i s a r eal t r eat t o

wat ch t hem i n t he shi p' s wake, wi t hout ef f or t , of t en wi t hout

per cept i bl e mot i on of t he wi ngs, keepi ng up t he f our t een

knot s an hour . The Capt ai n and I f r at er ni sed over t he

gul l s, whom he l oves, and wi l l not al l ow t o be shot at

f r om hi s shi p. " I ' l l shoot whet her you l i ke i t or not , "

i nsi st ed a spor t i ng gent on a r ecent voyage. " I f you do,

I ' l l put you i n i r ons, " r et or t ed t he Capt ai n ; wher eupon

t he spor t i ng gent col l apsed — - a pi t y, I t hi nk, f or an act i on

f or f al se i mpr i sonment woul d have been i nt er est i ng under

t he ci r cumst ances. I f ancy t he Capt ai n i s r i ght , but must

l ook up t he l aw af t er East er .

I am sur pr i sed t hat t hi s r out e i s not mor e popul ar

wi t h t he i ncr easi ng number s of our peopl e who l i ke a

shor t r un t o t he sout h of Fr ance i n our har d spr i ng

weat her . You can get by t hi s way t o Bor deaux qui cker

t han you can by Dover or Fol kest one f r om any pl ace

nor t h of Tr ent , unl ess you t r avel day and ni ght , and sl eep

on t he t r ai ns, and f or about hal f t he money. The packet s

ar e car go- boat s, but wi t h excel l ent cabi ns and sl eepi ng

accommodat i on f or t wel ve or f our t een passenger s, i ncl udi ng

334 Vacat i on Rambl es

as good a bat h as on a Cunar d or Whi t e St ar l i ner .

And yet I was t he onl y passenger l ast week. Ther e can

scar cel y be a mor e i nt er est i ng shor t voyage f or any one

who i s a decent sai l or ; but I suppose t he f our t een or si x -

t een hour s " i n t he Bay of Bi scay, oh ! " scar es peopl e.

As f ar as my exper i ence goes, t he At l ant i c r oar s l i ke a

sucki ng- dove i n t he Channel and t he Bay at East er - t i me.

Ther e was not wi nd enough t o di mpl e t he ocean sur f ace,

and unt i l we passed Mi l f or d Haven, no per cept i bl e mot i on

on t he shi p. Then, as we cr ossed t he openi ng of t he

Br i st ol Channel , she began t o r ol l — qui t e unaccount abl y,

as i t seemed at f i r st ; but on wat chi ng car ef ul l y, one

became awar e t hat , t hough t he sur f ace was mot i onl ess,

t he gr eat deep beneat h was heavi ng wi t h l ong pul sat i ons

f r om t he west , whi ch l i f t ed us i n r egul ar cadence ever y

t hi r t y or f or t y seconds. I have of t en cr ossed t he At l ant i c,

but never seen t he l i ke, as al ways bef or e t her e has been a

r i ppl e on t he cal mest day, whi ch gave t he ef f ect , at any

r at e, of sur f ace mot i on. The best i dea I can gi ve of i t i s,

i f on a l ong st r et ch of our Sout h Downs t he successi ve

t ur f sl opes t ook t o r i si ng and f al l i ng per pendi cul ar l y ever y

mi nut e. The Capt ai n sai d t her e must have been wi l d

weat her out west , and t hese wer e t he r ol l er s. I t was a

gr and si ght t o wat ch t he gr eat heave pass on t i l l i t r eached

t he Land' s End, and r an up t he cl i f f s t her e. We passed

near enough t o see t he mi ni ng wor ks, cl ose t o t he l evel of

hi gh- t i de, and t he vi l l ages on t he cl i f f - t ops above, or cl i ng-

i ng on t o t he sl opes wher ever t hese wer e not t oo pr e-

ci pi t ous. One can r eal i se what manner of men and sai l or s

t hi s Far West has br ed of ol d, and, I hope, st i l l br eeds.

I pi t y t he Engl i shman whose pul se does not qui cken as he

sai l s by t he Land' s End, and can see wi t h a gl ass some of

t he smal l har bour s out of whi ch Dr ake and Fr obi sher and

Hawki ns sai l ed, and dr ew t he cr ews t hat f ol l owed and

f ought t he Ar mada r i ght away t o t he St r ai t s of Dover .

As t he Land' s End l i ght r eceded, we became awar e of

Page 209 of 259

anot her l i ght away some t went y mi l es t o t he sout h- west .

I t i s on a r ock not f i f t y yar ds acr oss, t he Capt ai n says, at

Vacat i on Rambl es 335

hi gh t i de, and of t en unappr oachabl e f or weeks t oget her —

" The Hawk, " by name, on whi ch ar e kept f our l i ght house-

men, who spend t her e al t er nat e mont hs, weat her per mi t -

t i ng. I was gl ad t o hear t hat t her e ar e f our at a t i me, as

t he si ght of " The Hawk " br ought vi vi dl y t o my mi nd

t he gr uesome st or y of f i f t y year s back, when t her e wer e

onl y t wo men, who wer e known not t o be good f r i ends.

One di ed, and hi s compani on had t o wai t wi t h t he dead

body f or weeks bef or e hi s r el i ef came.

I not i ced, bef or e we wer e t wo hour s out , t hat t her e

was somet hi ng unusual l y smar t about t he cr ew, qui t e what

one woul d l ook f or on t he Umbr i a or Ger mani c, but scar cel y

on a 700- t ons cai - go- boat pl yi ng t o Bor deaux. Sever al of

t he young hands wer e f i ne Br i t i sh t ar s, wi t h t he spl endi d

t hr oat s and gr eat muscul ar hands and wr i st s whi ch st and

out so wel l f r om t he bl ue wool l en j er seys ; but t he one

who st r uck me most was t he shi p' s car pent er , a gr ay,

weat her - beat en ol d sal t , who was goi ng r ound qui et l y, but

al l t he t i me wi t h hi s br oad- headed hammer , set t i ng l i t t l e

t hi ngs st r ai ght , hel pi ng t o st r ai ght en t he t ar paul i ns over

t he hat ches and deck- car go, and soundi ng t he wel l . I

caught hi m now and t hen f or a f ew Avoi ds, as he passed

my deck- chai r , and got t he cl ue. Most of t he cr ew wer e

Naval Reser ve men, and f ol l owed t he Capt ai n, a l i eut enant

i n t he R. N. R. , who coul d f l y t he bl ue ensi gn i n f or ei gn

por t s, whi ch t hey l i ked. Besi des, he was a ski pper who

car ed f or hi s men, l ooked af t er t hei r mess and ber t hs, and

never want ed t o make anyt hi ng out of t hem ; char ged

t hem onl y a shi l l i ng a pound f or t hei r baccy, t he pr i ce at

whi ch he coul d get i t out of bond, whi l e most ski pper s

char ged 2s. 6d. , t he shop pr i ce. He had come t o t hi s

boat whi l e hi s bi g shi p was l ai d up i n dock, t o obl i ge t he

owner s, so t hey had f ol l owed hi m. Besi des, he never put

t hem t o any wor k he woul dn' t bear a hand i n ; had st ood

f or hour s up t o hi s wai st l ast year i n t he hol d when t hey

wer e br i ngi ng f i ve hundr ed cat t l e and seven hundr ed hogs

f r om Canada, r unni ng bef or e a heavy gal e. The wat er

t hey shi pped was put t i ng out t he engi ne f i r es, and t he

336 Vacat i on Rambl es

pumps woul dn' t wor k t i l l t hey had bai l ed f or t en hour s.

However , t hey got i n al l r i ght , and never l ost a beast .

Of cour se I was keen t o hear t he Capt ai n on t hi s subj ect ,

and so br oached i t at hi s t abl e. Yes, i t was qui t e t r ue ;

t hey had r un bef or e a heavy gal e f r om of f Newf oundl and,

and t he pumps gave out of f t he I r i sh coast . They got t he

sl udge bai l ed out enough f or al l t he f i r es t o get t o wor k

j ust about i n t i me, or woul d have dr i f t ed on t he r ocks and

gone al l t o pi eces i n a f ew mi nut es. Yes, i t was about

t he nast i est pi ece of wor k he had ever had t o do ; t he

sl udge, f or i t was onl y hal f wat er , was above hi s wai st ,

and had qui t e spoi l ed hi s uni f or m. The deck engi neer — a

l i ght - hai r ed man, al l bi g bones and muscl e, whom he poi nt ed

Page 210 of 259

out t o me — was i n t he deepest par t of t he hol d up t o hi s

ar m- pi t s, and had wor ked t her e f or t en hour s wi t hout

comi ng up ! He was a R. N. R. man, l i ke t he ol d car pent er

and most of t he r est . The ol d f el l ow was one of t he

st aunchest and best f ol l ower s, pr obabl y because he was

t i r ed of goi ng agr ound. He had been agr ound sevent een

t i mes ! f or t he Capt ai n i n hi s l ast shi p had a way of

char gi ng shoal s, mer el y sayi ng, " Oh, she' l l j ump i t ! "

whi ch she gener al l y decl i ned t o do. The Capt ai n i s a

st r ong Chur chman, but shar es t he pr ej udi ce agai nst car r y -

i ng mi ni st er s. " The devi l al ways has a show " when

you' r e car r yi ng a mi ni st er . The f i r st t i me he t r i ed i t , he

was t aki ng out hi s own br ot her , and t hey wer e t went y - t wo

days l at e at Mont r eal . I t was an awf ul cr ossi ng, a gal e

i n t hei r t eet h al l t he way ; most of t he shi ps t hat st ar t ed

wi t h t hem had t o put back. I suggest ed t hat i f he hadn' t

had hi s br ot her on boar d, he mi ght n' t have got over at

al l ; but he woul dn' t see i t . Next t i me, a man f el l f r om

t he mast - head and was ki l l ed; and t he next , a man j umped

over boar d. He woul d never car r y a mi ni st er agai n i f he

coul d hel p i t .

One pi l ot t ook us out t o Hol yhead, but i t t ook t hr ee

Fr ench ones t o t ake us up t o Bor deaux. The Gar onne

banks ar e onl y pi ct ur esque her e and t her e ; but t he f l at

banks have t hei r own i nt er est , f or do we not see t he

Vacat i on Rambl es ^ 7

choi cest vi neyar ds of t he cl ar et count r y as we r un up 1

Ther e was t he Chat eau Laf i t t e and t he Chat eau Mar gaux.

I suppose one ought wi t hi n one' s hear t , or r at her , wi t hi n

one' s pal at e per haps, " t o have f el t a st i r " —

As t hough one l ooked upon t he sheat h

" Whi ch once had cl asped Excal i bur .

But I coul d not t el l t he di f f er ence bet ween Mar gaux and

any decent cl ar et wi t h my eyes shut , so I di d not f eel

any st i r — unl ess, per haps, as a pat r i ot , when we passed

much t he most i mposi ng est abl i shment , and t he Capt ai n

sai d, " That i s Chat eau Gi l bey " ! I l ooked wi t h si l ent

wonder , f or di d I not r emember year s ago, when t he

Gl adst one Gr ocer s' Li cences Bi l l was young, and t he

Chr i st i e Mi nst r el s sung scof f i ngl y —

Ten l i t t l e ni gger s goi ng out t o di ne,

One dr ank Gi l bey, and t hen t her e wer e ni ne ?

And her e was Gi l bey wi t h t he f i nest " caves " and t he

choi cest vi neyar d i n t he Bor del ai se ! Who can measur e

t he compet i t i ve ener gy of t he Br i t i sh busi ness- man 1

I must end as I set out , wi t h t he bi r ds. As we near ed

t he mout h of t he Gar onne, si xt een mi l es f r om l and, t he

Capt ai n sai d, t wo l i t t l e wat er - wagt ai l s f l i t t ed i nt o t he

r i ggi ng. Ther e t hey r est ed a f ew mi nut es, and t hen, t o

my gr i ef , st ar t ed of f out t o sea, but agai n and agai n came

back t o t he shi p. At l ast a sai l or caught one, and t he

Capt ai n secur ed i t and t ook i t t o hi s cabi n, but t hought i t

woul d be sur e t o di e. I t was t he hen- bi r d. She di d not

Page 211 of 259

di e, but f l i t t ed away cheer f ul l y when he br ought her out

and l et her f l y on t he quay of Bor deaux. But I f ear she

wi l l never f i nd her mat e.

LOURDES

15t h Apr i l 1893.

The f ar t hest poi nt sout h i n our East er scamper was

Lour des, t o whi ch I f ound t hat my compani ons wer e mor e

z

33& Vacat i on Rambl es

bent on goi ng t han t o any ot her possi bl e pl ace wi t hi n

our r ange. The at t r act i ons even of t he Pass of Ronces -

val l es, of St . Sebast i an, and t he Pyr enean bat t l e- f i el ds of

1814, f aded wi t h t hem bef or e t hose of t he ni net eent h-

cent ur y Por t Royal . At f i r st I sai d I woul d not go.

The f act i s, I am one of t he ol d- f ashi oned f ol k who hol d

t hat some day t he ki ngdoms of t hi s wor l d ar e t o become

t he ki ngdoms of Chr i st , and t hat al l peopl es ar e t o be

gat her ed " i n one f ol d under one Shepher d. " I t has

al ways seemed t o me t hat one of t he sur est ways of

post poni ng t hat good t i me i s t o be suspi ci ous of ot her

f ai t hs t han our own ; t o accuse t hem of bl i nd super st i t i on

and del i ber at e i mpost ur e ; even t o wal k r ound t hei r

chur ches as i f t hey wer e museums or pi ct ur e- gal l er i es,

whi l e peopl e ar e kneel i ng i n pr ayer . So I sai d " No " ;

I woul d st op on t he t er r ace at Pan, wi t h one of t he most

gl or i ous vi ews i n t he wor l d t o l ook at , and car ef ul l y

exami ne Henr y I V. ' s chat eau, or go and get a r ound of

gol f wi t h my hi ber nat i ng f el l ow- count r ymen. I t hought

t hat t he pr obabl e r esul t of vi si t i ng Lour des mi ght be t o

make me mor e i ncl i ned t o t hi nk a l ar ge sect i on of my

f el l ow- mor t al s dupes, and t hei r pr i est s humbugs — con-

cl usi ons I was anxi ous t o avoi d. However , I changed

my mi nd at t he l ast moment , and am hear t i l y gl ad I di d.

I t i s an easy t went y mi l es ( about ) f r om Pau, f r om whi ch

you r un st r ai ght t o t he Pyr enees, and pul l up i n a gr een

nook of t he out l yi ng l ower mount ai ns, wher e t wo val l eys

meet , whi ch r un back t owar ds t he hi gher snow- capped

r ange. They l ooked so t empt i ng t o expl or e, as di d al so

t he gr i m ol d keep on t he hi gh r ock whi ch di vi des t hem

and compl et el y domi nat es t he l i t t l e t own, t hat t went y

year s ago I coul dn' t have r esi st ed, and shoul d have gone

f or an af t er noon' s cl i mb. But I am gr own l ess l i ssom, i f

not wi ser , and so t ook my pl ace meekl y i n t he f l y whi ch

my compani ons had char t er ed f or t he gr ot t o. We wer e

t hr ough t he l i t t l e t own i n a f ew mi nut es, t he onl y not e-

wor t hy t hi ng bei ng t he number of women who of f er ed us

candl es of al l si zes t o bur n bef or e t he Madonna' s st at ue

Vacat i on Rambl es 339

i n t he gr ot t o, and t he number of r el i c- shops. Emer gi ng

f r om t he st r eet , we f ound our sel ves i n f r ont of a gr een

l awn, at t he ot her end of whi ch was a f i ne whi t e mar bl e

chur ch, al most squar e, wi t h a dome — mor e l i ke a mosque,

Page 212 of 259

I t hought , t han a West er n chur ch ; and up above t hi s

anot her t al l Got hi c chur ch, wi t h a f i ne spi r e, t o whi ch

t he pi l gr i ms ascend by t wo spl endi d semi - ci r cul ar f l i ght s

of easy, br oad st eps, one on each si de of t he l ower chur ch,

and hol di ng i t , as i t wer e, i n t hei r ar ms. We, however ,

dr ove up t he st eep ascent out si de t he l ef t or sout her n

st ai r case, and got down at t he door of t he hi gher chur ch,

whi ch i s bui l t on t he r ock at t he bot t om of whi ch i s t he

f amous spr i ng and gr ot t o. We ent er ed by a spaci ous

por ch, wher e my at t ent i on was at once ar r est ed by t he

mur al t abl et s of whi t e mar bl e, each of whi ch commemor -

at ed t he cur e of some suf f er er : " Eeconnai ssance pour l a

guer i son de mon f i l s, " " de ma f i l l e, " et c. , bei ng at l east

as f r equent as t hose f or t he cur e of t he per son who put

up t he t abl et . I t hought at f i r st I woul d count t hem,

but soon gave i t up, as not onl y t hi s bi g vest i bul e, but

t he wal l s of al l t he chapel s, and of t he bi g chur ch bel ow

( bui l t , I was t ol d, and hope, by t he Duke of Nor f ol k at

hi s own cost ) , ar e j ust cover ed wi t h t hem. Thi s upper

chur ch was a per f ect bl aze of l i ght and col our , much t oo

gor geous f or my t ast e ; but what t he decor at i ons wer e

whi ch gave t hi s ef f ect I cannot say, as I was ent i r el y

absor bed i n not i ng t he vot i ve of f er i ngs of al l ki nds whi ch

wer e hung r ound each of t he shr i nes, bot h her e and i n

t he l ower chur ch. The most not ewor t hy of t hese, t o my

mi nd, ar e t he number of swor ds, epaul et t es, and mi l i t ar y

decor at i ons, whi ch t hei r owner s have hung up as t hank -

of f er i ngs. I do not suppose t hat Fr ench of f i cer s and

pr i vat es di f f er much f r om our s, and I am bol d t o asser t

t hat Tommy At ki ns woul d not par t wi t h hi s cr oss or

medal , or hi s capt ai n, f or t hat mat t er , wi t h hi s epaul et t es

or swor d, i f t hey had gone away f r om Lour des no bet t er

i n body t han when t hey went t her e hobbl i ng f r om

wounds, or t ot t er i ng f r om f ever or ague.

34° Vacat i on Rambl es

When we had seen t he upper chur ch we went down a

l ong f l i ght of ci r cul ar st ai r s, and came out i n t he l ower

( Duke of Nor f ol k' s) chur ch, — much mor e i nt er est i ng, I

t hi nk, ar chi t ect ur al l y, and decor at ed i n bet t er , because

qui et er , t ast e t han t he upper one. Fr om t hi s we went

r ound t o t he gr ot t o i n t he r ock, on whi ch t he upper

chur ch st ands, and i n whi ch t he f amous spr i ng r i ses, and

over i t a not unpl easant ( I cannot say mor e) st at ue of

t he Madonna ; and al l r ound candl es al i ght of al l si zes,

f r om f ar t hi ng- di ps t o col ossal moul ds, many of whi ch had

been bur ni ng, t hey sai d, f or a week. A si ngl e, qui et ol d

pr i est sat near t he ent r ance r eadi ng hi s Mi ssal , but onl y

speaki ng when spoken t o. I n f r ont wer e r anged l ong

r ows of chai r s, on whi ch sat or knel t some dozen pi l gr i ms

wi t h wi st f ul f aces, wai t i ng, per haps, f or t he t r oubl i ng of

t he wat er s. These ar e car r i ed f r om t he gr ot t o t o a ser i es

of basi ns al ong t he r ock out si de, at one of whi ch t wo

poor ol d cr ones wi t h sor e eyes wer e bat hi ng t hem, and

t al ki ng Basque ( I bel i eve) — at any r at e some unknown

t ongue t o me. I shoul d have l i ked t o hear t hei r ex -

per i ences, but t hey coul dn' t under st and a wor d of my

Angl i can Fr ench. Her e, agai n, t he most st r i ki ng obj ect

i s t he mass of cr ut ches of al l shapes and si zes, and f ear -

some- l ooki ng bandages, whi ch l i t er al l y cover t he r ock on

each si de of t he ent r ance t o t he gr ot t o, f or t he space ( I

Page 213 of 259

shoul d guess) of f our t een or f i f t een f eet on one si de, and

t en or t wel ve on t he ot her .

And so we f i ni shed our i nspect i on, and went back t o

our f l y, whi ch we had or der ed t o meet us at t he end

of t he l awn above ment i oned, whi ch l i es bet ween t he

chur ches and t he t own ; and so t o t he r ai l way st at i on,

and back t o Bi ar r i t z by Pau. I dar esay t hat peopl e

who go t her e at t he t i mes when t he gr eat bodi es of

pi l gr i ms come, may car r y away a ver y di f f er ent i mpr es-

si on f r om mi ne. Al l I can say i s, t hat I never was i n a

pl ace wher e t her e was l ess conceal ment of any ki nd ; and

t her e was no at t empt what ever t o i nf l uence you i n any

way by pr i est or at t endant . Ther e wer e al l t he bui l di ngs

Vacat i on Rambl es 341

and t he gr ot t o open, and you coul d exami ne t hem and

t hei r cont ent s undi st ur bed f or any t i me you chose t o gi ve

t o t hem, and dr aw f r om your exami nat i on what ever con-

cl usi ons you pl eased. So I , f or one, can onl y r epeat t hat

I am hear t i l y gl ad t hat I went ; and shal l t hi nk bet t er of

my Eoman Cat hol i c br et hr en as t he r esul t of my vi si t

f or t he r est of my l i f e.

Of cour se, t he mai n i nt er est of Lour des l i es i n t he

wor l d- ol d cont r over sy bet ween t he men of sci ence and t he

men of f ai t h, as t o t he r eal i t y of t he al l eged f act s —

mi r acl es, as many f ol k cal l t hem — of t he heal i ng pr o-

per t i es whi ch t he wat er s of t hi s f amous spr i ng, or t he ai r

' of Lour des, or t he Madonna, or some ot her unknown

i nf l uence, ar e al l eged t o possess, and t o be f r eel y avai l abl e

f or i nval i d pi l gr i ms who car e t o make t r i al of t hem.

Ever y one i n t hose par t s t hat I met , at Lour des i t sel f , at

Pau, Bi ar r i t z, Bayonne, i s i nt er est ed i n t he quest i on and

r eady t o di scuss i t . Per haps I can best i ndi cat e t he

poi nt s of t he debat e by f or mul at i ng t he ar gument s on

each si de whi ch I hear d, put t i ng t hem i nt o t he mout hs of

r epr esent at i ve men — a doct or and a pr i est . I was l ucky

enough t o f al l i n wi t h an excel l ent r epr esent at i ve of t he

sci ent i f i c si de, an abl e and open- mi nded M. D. on hi s

t r avel s. I had no oppor t uni t y of speaki ng t o one of t he

pr i est s ; but t hei r si de of t he ar gument i s st out l y uphel d

by at l east hal f of t he peopl e one meet s.

Dr . — They ar e not hi ng but what ar e cal l ed f ai t h- cur es,

aki n t o t hose whi ch t he Yankee Sequah ef f ect s when he

goes r ound our nor t her n t owns i n hi s huge car , wi t h hi s

br ass band and at t endant I ndi an Sachems i n t he cost ume

of t he pr ai r i e. Of cour se, her e t he sur r oundi ngs ar e f ar

mor e i mpr essi ve and ser i ous ; but t he cur es ar e t he same

f or al l t hat — some act i on of t he ner ves whi ch makes

pat i ent s bel i eve t hey ar e cur ed, when t hey ar e not r eal l y.

Pr obabl y ni ne- t ent hs ar e j ust as bad agai n i n a f ew mont hs.

Pr i est . — Wel l , don' t we say t hey ar e f ai t h- cur es 1 We

don' t pr et end t hat we can do t hem, as t hi s Sequah you

t al k about does. You al l ow t hat gr eat number s t hi nk

34 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

Page 214 of 259

t hey ar e cur ed, and wal k about wi t hout cr ut ches or

bandages, or pai ns i n t hei r bodi es, and enj oy l i f e agai n

f or a t i me at any r at e ; whi ch i s mor e t han you can do

f or t hem, or t hey woul dn' t come her e t o be heal ed.

Dr . — How l ong do t hey wal k about wi t hout cr ut ches

or pai ns i n t hei r l i mbs 1 Why don' t you t ake us behi nd

t he scenes, and l et us t est and f ol l ow up some of t hese

cur es 1

Pr i est . — We can' t t ake you behi nd t he scenes, f or t her e

ar e no scenes t o go behi nd. We t el l you we don' t do t he

cur es, or know pr eci sel y how t hey ar e done. We can' t

hi nder your i nqui r i es, and don' t want t o hi nder t hem i f

we coul d. Ther e ar e t he t abl et s of " r econnai ssance, " '

wi t h names and addr esses ; you can go t o t hese, i f you l i ke,

or t al k t o t he pat i ent s Avhom you see at t he spr i ng or i n

t he chapel s.

Dr . — Come, now ! You don' t r eal l y mean t o say you

bel i eve t hat our Lor d' s Mot her appear ed t o t hi s gi r l on

23r d Mar ch 1858, and t ol d her t hat t hi s Lour des was a

speci al l y f avour i t e pl ace wi t h her ; and t hat she has

si nce t hat t i me gi ven t hese speci al heal i ng qual i t i es t o

t he wat er or ai r of Lour des, or what ever i t i s t hat causes

t hese ef f ect s at t hi s pl ace 1

Pr i est . — We mean t o say t hat t he gi r l t hor oughl y

bel i eved i t , and we hol d t hat her i mpr essi on — her

cer t ai nt y — di dn' t come f r om t he devi l , as i t must i f i t

was a l i e ; t hat i t wasn' t t he mer e dr eam of a hyst er i cal

gi r l , and was not gi ven her f or not hi ng. El se, how can

one account f or t hese bui l di ngs, cost i ng, per haps, as much

as one of your f i nest cat hedr al s, al l put up i n t hi r t y - f i ve

year s 1

Dr . — Yes ; but t hat doesn' t answer my quest i on.

Di d t he Mot her of our Lor d appear t o t hi s gi r l , and i s i t

she who wor ks t he cur es 1

Pr i est . — I f you mean by " appear , " " come vi si bl y, "

we don' t know. But you shoul d r emember al ways t hat

t he Fr ench have a ver y di f f er ent f eel i ng about t he

Madonna f r om you Engl i sh. Per haps you can' t hel p

Vacat i on Rambl es 343

connect i ng her wi t h anot her Fr ench gi r l , Joan of Ar c,

who bel i eved t he Madonna had appear ed t o her and t ol d

her she shoul d t ur n you Engl i sh out of Fr ance, whi ch she

di d — a mor e di f f i cul t and cost l y j ob even t han bui l di ng

t hese chur ches.

Dr . — Wel l , we won' t ar gue about t he Madonna, and I

am qui t e r eady t o admi t t hat t he evi dence you have her e,

i n t he t abl et s and vot i ve of f er i ngs, t he cr ut ches and

bandages, ar e pr und- f acl e pr oof t hat number s of pi l gr i ms

have gone away f r om Lour des under t he i mpr essi on t hat

t hey wer e cur ed. What I mai nt ai n i s, t hat you have not

shown, and cannot show, t hat your cur es ar e not mer el y

due t o t he absor pt i on of di seased t i ssue as t he r esul t of

Page 215 of 259

st r ong exci t ement — an ef f ect not at al l common, but

qui t e r ecogni sed as not unf r equent by some of t he

hi ghest aut hor i t i es i n medi cal sci ence.

Ther e t he cont r over sy r est s, I t hi nk ; at any r at e, so

f ar as I hear d i t debat ed ; and I must own t hat t he

sci ent i f i c expl anat i on does not seem t o me t o hol d wat er .

To t ake one i nst ance, woul d t he absor pt i on of di seased

t i ssue dr i ve a pi ece of cl ot h out of a sol di er ' s l eg or

body 1 Per haps yes, f or what I know

but woul d t he

exci t ement of a mot her cur e t he di sease of her chi l d ?

These t wo cl asses of cur es ( of whi ch t her e ar e a gr eat

number ) st r uck me, per haps, mor e t han any of t he r est .

But I must not t ake up mor e of your space, and can onl y

advi se al l your r eader s who ar e r eal l y i nt er est ed i n t hi s

pr obl em t o t ake t he f i r st oppor t uni t y t hey can of goi ng

t o Lour des, and, i f possi bl e, as we di d, at a t i me when

t he gr eat bodi es of pi l gr i ms ar e not t her e, and t hey can

qui et l y exami ne t he f act s t her e, f or — pace t he doct or s and

men of sci ence — t hese t abl et s, swor ds, cr ut ches, et c. , ar e

f act s whi ch t hey ar e bound t o acknowl edge and i nvest i gat e.

I shal l be sur pr i sed i f t hey do not come away, as I di d,

wi t h a f eel i ng t hat t hey have seen a deepl y i nt er est i ng

si ght f or whi ch i t i s wel l wor t h whi l e t o come f r om

Engl and, and t hat t her e ar e t wo si des t o t hi s quest i on of

t he Lour des mi r acl es ( so- cal l ed) , ei t her of whi ch any

344 Vacat i on Rambl es

o

r ever ent st udent of t he wor l d i n whi ch he i s l i vi ng may

consci ent i ousl y hol d.

FONTARABI A

22nd Apr i l 1893.

Ever y year t he t r ut h of Bums' s " t he best - l ai d

schemes o' mi ce and men gang af t a- gl ey, " comes mor e

home t o me. Fr om t he t i me I was t en t he Pass of

Roncesval l es has had a f asci nat i on f or me. Then t he

habi t of bal l ad- si ngi ng was popul ar , and a r el at i ve of mi ne

had a wel l - deser ved r eput e i n t hat l i ne. Amongst her

ol d- wor l d f avour i t es wer e " Rol and t he Br ave " and

" Dur andar t e. " The f i r st t ol d how Rol and l ef t hi s cast l e

on t he Rhi ne, wher e he used t o l i st en t o t he chant i ng i n

t he opposi t e convent , i n whi ch hi s l ady- l ove had t aken

t he vei l on t he f al se r epor t of hi s deat h, and " t hi nk she

bl essed hi m i n her pr ayer when t he hal l el uj ah r ose " ;

and f ol l owed Char l emagne i n hi s Spani sh r ai d, t i l l " he

f el l and wi shed t o f al l " at Roncesval l es. The second,

how Dur andar t e, dyi ng i n t he f at al pass, sent hi s l ast

message t o hi s mi st r ess by hi s cousi n Mont esi nos. I n

t hose days I never coul d hear t he l ast l i nes wi t hout

f eel i ng gul py i n t he t hr oat : —

Ki nd i n manner s, f ai l * i n f avour ,

Mi l d i n t emper , f i er ce i n f i ght , —

Page 216 of 259

War r i or pur er , gent l er , br aver ,

Never shal l behol d t he l i ght .

They may not be good poet r y, but Monk Lewi s, t he

aut hor , never wr ot e any ot her s as good. Then Lockhar t ' s

Spani sh Bal l ads wer e gi ven me, and i n one of t he

best of t hose st i r r i ng r hymes, Ber nar do del Car pi o' s

bear di ng of hi s Ki ng, I r ead —

The l i f e of Ki ng Al phonso I saved at Roncesval ,

Your wor d, Lor d Ki ng, was r ecompense abundant f or i t al l ;

Your hor se was down, your hope was f l own ; I saw t he f al chi on

shi ne

That soon had dr unk t hy r oyal bl ood had I not vent ur ed mi ne, et c.

Vacat i on Rambl es 345

Then, a l i t t l e l at er , a f ami l y f r i end who had been an

ensi gn i n t he Li ght Di vi si on i n Jul y 1813, used t o make

our boyi sh pul ses dance wi t h hi s t al es of t he week' s

f i ght i ng i n and r ound Eoncesval l es, when Soul t was

dr i ven over t he Pyr enees and Spai n was f r eed. And

agai n, l at er , came t he t al e of Tai l l ef er , t he Conquer or ' s

mi nst r el , r i di ng bef or e t he l i ne at t he bat t l e of Hast i ngs,

t ossi ng hi s swor d i n t he ai r , and chant i ng t he " Song of

Rol and, " and of t he " Peer s who f el l at Roncesval l es. "

So you wi l l bel i eve, si r , t hat my f i r st t hought when I got

t o Bi ar r i t z, wi t h t he Pyr enees i n f ul l vi ew l ess t han

t went y mi l es of f , was, " Now I shal l see t he pass wher e

Char l emagne' s peer s, and f i ve hundr ed Br i t i sh sol di er s as

br ave as any pal adi n of t hem al l , had f ought and di ed. "

The hol i days gal l oped, and one day onl y was l ef t , when

at our mor ni ng conf er ence I f ound t hat my compani ons

wer e bent on Font ar abi a and San Sebast i an, and assur ed

me we coul d combi ne t he t hr ee, as Roncesval l es, t hey

hear d, was cl ose t o Font ar abi a. Then my f ai t h i n Si r

Wal t er — combi ned, I f ear , Avi t h my def ect i ve t r ai ni ng i n

geogr aphy — l ed me ast r ay, f or had he not wr i t t en i n t he

bat t l e- cant o of Mur mi on: —

Oh, f or one bl ast of t hat dr ead hor n,

On Font ar abi an echoes bor ne,

That t o Ki ng Char l es di d come,

When Rol and br ave, and Ol i ver ,

And ever y Pal adi n and Peer ,

At Roncesval l es di ed, et c.

Now, of cour se, i f Char l emagne coul d hear t he hor n of

Rol and on t he t op of t he pass wher e he t ur ned back,

" bor ne on Font ar abi an echoes, " t hen Font ar abi a must be

at t he f oot of t he pass, wher e Rol and and t he r ear - guar d

wer e sur r ounded and f i ght i ng f or t hei r l i ves. I n a weak

moment I agr eed t o Font ar abi a and San Sebast i an, and

so shal l most l i kel y never see Roncesval l es. I t i s f our t een

Page 217 of 259

mi l es di st ant as t he cr ow f l i es, or t her eabout s ; and I war n

your r eader s t hat t he t hr ee can' t be done i n one l ong day

f r om Bi ar r i t z.

5

46 Vacat i on Rambl es

However , I am bound t o admi t t hat Font ar abi a and

San Sebast i an make a most i nt er est i ng day' s wor k. I

had never been i n Spai n bef or e, and so was wel l on t he

al er t when a f el l ow - passenger , as we sl owed on ap-

pr oachi ng I r un st at i on, poi nt ed acr oss t he sands bel ow us

and sai d, " Ther e' s Font ar abi a ! " Ther e, per haps t wo

mi l es of t " , l ay a smal l gr ay t own on a l ow hi l l wi t h cast l e

and chur ch at t he t op, and gat eway and di l api dat ed wal l s

on t he si de t owar ds us, l ooki ng as t hough i t mi ght have

gone of f t o sl eep i n t he sevent eent h cent ur y — a r eal l y

cur i ous cont r ast t o bust l i ng Bi ar r i t z f r om whi ch we had

j ust come. We went down t o t he f er r y and t ook a punt

t o cr oss t he r i ver , whi ch t hr eaded t he br oad sands l ef t by

t he t i de. I t was f ul l ebb ; so our man had t o t ake us a

l ong r ound, gi vi ng us wel come t i me f or t he vi ew, whi ch,

when t he t i de i s up, must be gl or i ous. Our bar e- f oot ed

boat man, t hough Basque or Spani ar d, was qui t e " up t o

dat e, " and handl ed hi s punt pol e i n a st yl e whi ch woul d

make hi m a f or mi dabl e r i val of t he Oxf or d wat er men i n

t he punt r ace by Chr i st Chur ch meadow, whi ch, I suppose,

i s st i l l hel d at t he end of t he summer t er m. A nar r ow,

r ough causeway l ed us f r om t he l andi ng- pl ace t o t he

t own- gat e i n t he ol d wal l , wher e an ar t i st who had j oi ned

t he par t y was so t aken wi t h t he vi ew up t he mai n st r eet

t hat he sat down at once t o about as di f f i cul t a sket ch as

he wi l l meet i n a year ' s r ambl es. For f r om t he gat eway

t he mai n st r eet r uns st r ai ght up t he hi l l t o t he r ui ned

cast l e and chur ch at t he t op. I t i s nar r ow, st eep, and

t her e ar e not t wo houses al i ke al l t he way up. They

var y f r om what must have been pal aces of t he gr andees

— wi t h di m coat s- of - ar ms st i l l vi si bl e over t he door ways,

and el abor at el y car ved, deep eaves, al most meet i ng t hose

of t hei r opposi t e nei ghbour s acr oss t he st r eet — t o poor ,

al most squal i d houses, r eachi ng t o t he second st or y of t hei r

ar i st ocr at i c nei ghbour s' , but al l wi t h deep, over hangi ng,

t hough uncar ved eaves, showi ng, I t ake i t , how t he

Spani ar d val ues hi s shade. Up we went t o t he chur ch

and cast l e, t he l adi es l ooki ng wi st f ul l y i nt o such shops as

Vacat i on Rambl es 347

t her e wer e, t o f i nd somet hi ng t o buy ; but I f ancy i n

vai n. Xot a t out appear ed t o of f er hi s ser vi ces ; or a

shopkeeper , mal e or f emal e, t o sel l us anyt hi ng. Such of t he

Font ar abi ans as we saw l ooked at us wi t h f r i endl y enough

br own eyes, whi ch, however , seemed t o say, " Si l l y soul s !

Why can' t you st op at home and mi nd your own busi ness % "

Even at t he end of our i nspect i on, when we spr ead our

Page 218 of 259

l unch on a br oad st one sl ab near t he gat e — t he t ombst one

once, I shoul d t hi nk, of a pal adi n — t her e bei ng no houses

of ent er t ai nment vi si bl e t o us, we had al most a di f f i cul t y

i n at t r act i ng t hr ee or f our chi l dr en and a st r ay dog t o

shar e our r el i cs.

The ol d cast l e i s of no speci al i nt er est , t hough t her e

wer e a f ew r ust y ol d i r on t ubes l yi ng about , sai d t o have

once been guns, whi ch I shoul d doubt ; and Char l es V. i s

sai d t o have of t en l i ved t her e dur i ng hi s Fr ench war s. The

chur ch i s ver y i nt er est i ng, f r om i t s st r ong cont r ast wi t h

t hose over t he bor der — squar e, massi ve, sombr e, wi t h

no at t empt at decor at i on or or nament r ound t he hi gh

br ass al t ar s, except her e and t her e a pi ct ur e, and smal l

squar e wi ndows qui t e hi gh up i n t he wal l s, t hr ough

whi ch t he qui et , subdued l i ght comes. The pi ct ur es, wi t h

one except i on, wer e of no i nt er est ; but t hat one except i on

st ar t l ed and f asci nat ed me. The subj ect i s t he " Mat er

Dol or osa, " a f ul l - l engt h f i gur e st andi ng, t he br east bar e,

and seven kni ves pl unged i n t he hear t , — a coar se and

r epul si ve pai nt i ng, but ent i r el y r edeemed by t he i nt ense

expr essi on of t he l ove, t he agony, and t he sor el y shaken

f ai t h whi ch ar e cont endi ng f or mast er y i n t he f ace. The

pai nt er must have been suddenl y i nspi r ed, or some gr eat

mast er must have st epped i n t o f i ni sh t he wor k. San

Sebast i an does not do af t er Font ar abi a ; a f i ne moder n

t own, wi t h some l ar ge chur ches and a bi g new bul l - r i ng,

but of l i t t l e i nt er est except f or t he f or t whi ch domi nat es

t he t own on t he sea- f r ont . How t hat f or t was st or med,

af t er one r epul se and a l ong si ege of si xt y- t hr ee days ;

how, i n t he t wo assaul t s and si ege, mor e t han f our

t housand gal l ant sol di er s of t he Br i t i sh and al l i ed ar my

348 Vacat i on Rambl es

f el l ; and t he f ear f ul st or y of t he sack and bur ni ng of

t he ol d t own by t he maddened sol di er s, i s t o me al most

t he saddest epi sode i n our mi l i t ar y hi st or y. I was gl ad

when we had made our cur sor y i nspect i on and got back

t o t he st at i on on our r et ur n t o Bi ar r i t z. That br i ght est

and most bust l i ng of heal t h r esor t s was our head- quar t er s,

and I shoul d t hi nk f or young Engl i sh f ol k must be about

t he most enj oyabl e above gr ound. I knew t hat i t was

becomi ng a f or mi dabl e r i val of t he Ri vi er a f or spr i ng

quar t er s, but was not at al l pr epar ed f or t he f act s.

Al most t he f i r st t hi ng I saw was a gr oup of young

Engl i shmen i n f aul t l ess br eeches and gai t er s, j ust come

back f r om a meet of t he pack of hounds; next came

al ong some f i ne st r appi ng gi r l s i n wal ki ng cost ume, bent ,

I shoul d t hi nk, on expl or i ng t he nei ghbour i ng bat t l e-

gr ounds ; next , men and yout hs i n f l annel s, bound f or t he

gol f l i nks, wher e a handi cap i s goi ng on ( I wonder what

a Fr ench caddi e i s l i ke 1) ; t hen I hear d of , but di d not

see, t he st ar t of t he Engl i sh coach f or Pau ( i t r uns dai l y) ;

and t hen yout hs on bi cycl es, unmi st akabl e Br i t ons, —

t hough t he Fr ench yout h have t aken ki ndl y, I hear , t o t hi s

past i me. Ther e ar e f our gi gant i c hot el s at whi ch f r i ends

t ol d me t hat not hi ng i s hear d but Engl i sh at t hei r t abl es

d' hdt e ; and i n t he qui et and excel l ent smal l " Hot el de

Bayonne, " at whi ch we st ayed, havi ng hear d t hat i t was

a f avour i t e wi t h t he Fr ench, out of t he f or t y guest s or

t her eabout s, cer t ai nl y t hr ee- f our t hs wer e Engl i sh, and t he

Page 219 of 259

ot her one- f our t h most l y Amer i cans. On East er Monday

t her e was a pr ocessi on of car s, wi t h chi l dr en i n f ancy

dr esses r epr esent i ng t he l ocal i ndust r i es ; but t he bi ggest

was t hat over whi ch t he Uni on Jack waved, and a smal l

and dai nt y damsel sat on t he t hr one sur r ounded by boys

i n t he or t hodox r i g of a man- of - war ' s- man and Tommy

At ki ns. I n f act , a vast st r eam of ver y sol vent Engl i sh

seem t o have f ai r l y st or med and occupi ed t he pl ace, t o t he

gr eat del i ght of t he nat i ve car - dr i ver s and shopkeeper s ;

and so gr ot esque was i t t hat Byr on' s cyni cal dogger el kept

soundi ng i n my head as, at any r at e, appr opr i at e t o Bi ar r i t z :

Vacat i on Rambl es 349

The wor l d i s a bundl e of hay,

Manki nd ar e t he asses t hat pul l ;

Each t ugs i n a di f f er ent way,

And t he gr eat est of al l i s John Bul l .

But , apar t f r om al l t he hi gh j i nks and f est i ve goi ngs - on,

t her e i s one spot i n Bi ar r i t z whi ch may wel l pr ove a

magnet t o us, and bef or e whi ch we shoul d st and wi t h

uncover ed heads and sor r owf ul l y pr oud hear t s ; and t hat

i s t he f i ne por ch of t he Engl i sh chur ch. One whol e si de

of i t i s f i l l ed by a t abl et , at t he head of whi ch one r eads :

" Pr i st i nx vi r t uf i s memor . Thi s por ch, dedi cat ed t o t he

memor y of t he of f i cer s, non- commi ssi oned of f i cer s, and

men of t he Br i t i sh ar my, who f el l i n t he sout h- west of

Fr ance f r om 7t h Oct ober 1813 t o 14t h Apr i l 1814, was

er ect ed by t hei r f el l ow- sol di er s and compat r i ot s, 1882. "

Then come t he names of f or t y- ei ght Li ne r egi ment s, and

t he Ger man Legi on, f ol l owed i n each case by t he deat h- r ol l ,

t he of f i cer s' names gi ven i n f ul l . Let me end wi t h a f ew

exampl es. The 42 nd l ost t en of f i cer s — t wo at Ni ve, one

at Or t hez, and seven at Toul ouse; t he 43r d — f i ve at

Ni vel l e and Bayonne ; t he 57t h — si x at Ni vel l e and

Ni ve; t he 79t h — f i ve at Toul ouse, of whom t hr ee bor e

t he name of Camer on; t he 95t h — si x at t he Bi dassoa,

Ni vel l e, and Ni ve. Such a r ecor d, I t hi nk, br i ngs home

t o one even mor e vi vi dl y t han Napi er ' s pages t he cost t o

Engl and of her shar e i n t he upr i si ng of Eur ope agai nst

Napol eon ; and i t onl y cover s si x mont hs of a seven

year s' st r uggl e i n t he Peni nsul a ! At t he bot t om of t he

t abl et ar e t he si mpl e wor ds : —

Gi ve peace i n our t i me, oh Lor d !

Echoes f r om Auver gne

La Boueboul e, 2nd Jul y 1893.

We had hear d t hr ough t el egr ams and shor t par agr aphs

i n t he Fr ench paper s of t he si nki ng of t he Vi ct or i a

bef or e t he Spect at or of 1st Jul y came t o us her e, i n t hese

350 Vacat i on Rambl es

Page 220 of 259

f ar - away hi ghl ands of Auver gne ; but your s was t he f i r st

t r ust wor t hy account i n any det ai l whi ch r eached us. I

am sur e t hat ot her s must have f el t as t hankf ul t o you as

I di d, f or your wor d was wor t hy t he occasi on, and t ol d

as i t shoul d be t ol d, one of t he st or i es whi ch ennobl e a

nat i on, and r emai n a / v- n^ px et ' s aei f or al l t i me. The

l onel y f i gur e on t he br i dge i s t r ul y, as you say, a subj ect

f or a gr eat pi ct or i al ar t i st , and bel ongs " r at her t o t he

poet t han t he j our nal i st " ; and one t r ust s t hat Si r Geor ge

Tr yon' s may st and out her eaf t er i n wor t hy ver se as one

of " t he f ew cl ar i on names " i n our annal s. But i t was

sur el y t he nobl e st eadf ast ness of al l , f r om admi r al t o

st oker , whi ch has once mor e gi ven us al l " t hat l eap of

hear t wher eby a peopl e r i se " t o a keener consci ousness

of t he meani ng of nat i onal l i f e. I t hi nk one f eel s i t even

mor e out her e amongst st r anger s t han one woul d have

f el t i t at home, and can gi ve God t hanks t hat t he ol d

i deal has come out agai n i n t he si nki ng of t he Vi ct or i a

as i t di d i n t hat of t he Bi r kenhead f or t y year s ago, when

t he shi p' s boat s t ook of f al l t he women and chi l dr en, and

t he bi g shi p went down at l ast " st i l l under st eadf ast

men. "

Those ar e, as you know, t he wor ds of Si r Fr anci s

Doyl e, who gave voi ce t o t he mi xed angui sh and t r i umph

of t he nat i on i n wor t hy ver se. I hear d t he gr eat st or y

f r om t he l i ps of one of t he si mpl est of men, Col onel

Wr i ght , who as a subal t er n had f or med t he men up on

t he deck of t he Bi r kenhead under Col onel Set on, and

st ood at hi s pl ace on t he r i ght of t he l i ne when she br oke

i n t wo. He was ent angl ed f or some moment s i n t he

si nki ng wr eck, but managed t o f r ee hi msel f , and, bei ng a

f amous swi mmer , r ose t o t he sur f ace, and st r uck out f or

t he shor e amongst a number of t he men. I t must have

been one of t he most t r yi ng hal f hour s t hat men ever

went t hr ough ; f or , as t hey swam and cheer ed one anot her ,

now and agai n a comr ade woul d suddenl y di sappear , and

t hey knew t hat one of t he huge shar ks t hey had seen

f r om t he deck, passi ng backwar ds and f or war ds under t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 351

doomed shi p, was amongst t hem. When t hey had al l

but r eached t he shor e t he man who swam by Wr i ght ' s

si de was t aken. When I hear d t he t al e he was Assi st ant -

I nspect or of Vol unt eer s under Col onel M' Mur do, and

goi ng f ai t hf ul l y t hr ough hi s dai l y wor k. St r ange t o say,

nei t her Hor se Guar ds nor War Of f i ce had t aken any not e

of t hat uni que deck- par ade and swi m f or l i f e, and Ensi gn

Wr i ght had r i sen sl owl y t o be Maj or and Sub- I nspect or

of Vol unt eer s. St r anger st i l l , he seemed t o t hi nk i t al l

r i ght , and t her e was no t r ace of r esent ment or j eal ousy

i n hi s pl ai n st at ement of t he f act s — whi ch, i ndeed, I had

t o dr aw out by cr oss- quest i oni ng on our mar ch f r om t he

Regent ' s Par k t o our headquar t er s i n Bl oomsbur y. I

was so moved by t he st or y t hat I wr ot e i t al l t o Mr .

Car dwel l , t hen at t he War Of f i ce, and had t he pl easur e of

seei ng Maj or Wr i ght ' s name i n t he next Gazet t e amongst

t he new C. B. ' s.

Wel l , wel l ! I t does one good now and t hen t o br eat he

Page 221 of 259

f or a l i t t l e i n a r ar er and nobl er at mospher e t han t hat of

ever yday, i nt o whi ch we must af t er al l si nk, and l i ve

t her e f or ni ne- t ent hs of our t i me, — l i ke t he ol d f i sh- wi f e,

Muckl ebacki t , goi ng back t o mendi ng t he ol d net s and

chaf f er i ng over t he pr i ce of her r i ngs whi ch have been

bought by men' s l i ves. And her e we have gr eat pl acar ds

j ust out , announci ng " Fet es de j our et de nui t , " wi t h

donkey- r aces and al l manner of games, and f i r ewor ks,

i ncl udi ng an " embr asement gener al , " what ever t hat may

f or ebode. " Thi s l i f e woul d be qui t e endur abl e but f or i t s

amusement s, " sai d Si r G. Cor newal l Lewi s, a wi se man

and excel l ent Mi ni st er of t he Cr own.

Our f i r st Sunday at La Bour boul e has been edi f yi ng

f r om t he Sabbat ar i an poi nt of vi ew, and I shoul dn' t

wonder i f t he good l i t t l e par son who i s t aki ng t he dut y

her e dur i ng t he bat hi ng- season hol ds i t up t o us f or

i nst r uct i on next Sunday, i f he can get a r oom f or ser vi ce,

and a congr egat i on. Ther e i s no Engl i sh chur ch, and

f r om what I hear not much pr ospect of an ar r angement

f or j oi nt wor shi p i n t he Fr ench Pr ot est ant chur ch, whi ch

35 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

was al most concl uded, bei ng car r i ed out . Unf or t unat el y,

a successi on of young Ri t ual i st s have managed t o al ar m

t he Fr ench Pr ot est ant past or and hi s smal l f l ock, by

t r eat i ng t hem as Di ssent er s, and maki ng f r i ends ost ent a-

t i ousl y wi t h t he Eoman Cat hol i c pr i est s. However ,

happi l y t he pr esent i ncumbent ( or what ever he shoul d be

cal l ed) i s a sensi bl e moder at el y br oad Chur chman, who i t

may be hoped wi l l br i ng t hi ngs st r ai ght agai n. But t o

r et ur n t o my Sabbat ar i an st or y. An Engl i sh l ady f ond

of equest r i an exer ci se hi r ed hor ses f or her sel f and a

f r i end, and i nvi t ed t he abl e and pl easant young I r i shman

who doct or s us al l , and i s al so chur chwar den, t o accom-

pany t hem f or a r i de i n t hese l ovel y mount ai ns. They

st ar t ed f r om t hi s hot el , and, as i t happened, j ust as t he

par son was comi ng by ; so, not bei ng qui t e easy i n t hei r

consci ences ( I suppose) , asked hi m i f he saw any har m i n

i t . To t hi s he r epl i ed, sensi bl y enough, t hat i t was t hei r

f i ght , not hi s ; and i f t hey saw none, he had not hi ng t o

say. So of f t hey r ode, meani ng cer t ai nl y t o be back by

8 P. M. f or supper . I was about t i l l near l y ni ne, when

t hey had not t ur ned up ; and next mor ni ng I hear d t he

concl usi on of t he whol e mat t er . The doct or ' s hor se cast

a shoe, and had t o be l ed home, l i mpi ng sl i ght l y ; whi l e

t he l ady' s hor se came back dead- l ame, and her compani on' s

st eed wi t h bot h knees br oken ! Judgi ng by t he un-

mi st akabl e t al ent of t hese good Bour boul ai s f or appr eci at -

i ng t he val ue t o t hei r guest s of t hei r wat er and ot her

possessi ons, I shoul d say t hat t hi s Sunday r i de wi l l pr ove

a cost l y i ndul gence t o t he excur si oni st s.

La Bour boul e

10t h Jul y 1893.

Cur r ency quest i ons ar e sur el y amongst t he t hi ngs

Page 222 of 259

" whi ch no f el l ow can under st and, " — a t r ut h f or whi ch I

t hi nk, si r , I may even cl ai m you as a wi t ness, af t er r ead-

i ng your caut i ous handl i ng of t he si l ver quest i on i n r ecent

Vacat i on Rambl es 353

number s. But so f ar as my exper i ence goes, t her e ar e

no quest i ons as t o whi ch i t i s mor e di f f i cul t t o shake

convi ct i ons t han t hose whi ch have been ar r i ved at by un-

sci ent i f i c per sons. For i nst ance, i n t hi s ver y char mi ng

heal t h- r esor t , t he aut hor i t i es at t he Et abl i ssement des

Bai ns, wher e one buys bat h- t i cket s, ar e under t he del usi on

t hat 20 f r . ( Fr ench money) ar e t he pr oper equi val ent f or

t he Engl i sh sover ei gn. On my f i r st pur chase of si x

t i cket s, amount i ng t o 15 f r . ( each bat h cost s 2 f r . 50 c,

or 50 c. mor e t han at Royat ) , t he ot her wi se i nt el l i gent

per son who pr esi ded at t he cai sse d' et abl i ssement , t ender ed

me a si ngl e 5 f r . pi ece ; and on my cal l i ng hi s at t ent i on

t o t he mi st ake, as I supposed i t t o be, and demandi ng a

second 5 f r . , cal ml y i nf or med me t hat 20 f r . was t he

change t hey al ways gave, and he coul d gi ve no ot her .

Wher eupon, I car r i ed of f my sover ei gn i n hi gh dudgeon,

and — t her e bei ng nei t her bank nor money- changer ' s of f i ce

i n t hi s pl ace, t hough mor e t han t went y l ar ge hot el s ! —

appl i ed t o t wo of t he l ar ger shops onl y t o f i nd t he same

del usi on i n f or ce. I n shor t , I onl y succeeded i n get t i ng

25 f r . i n exchange f or my sover ei gn as a f avour f r om our

ki nd host ess at t hi s hot el . Wher ef or e, as I hear t hat a

gr eat cr owd of Engl i sh ar e l ooked f or next mont h, I

shoul d l i ke t o war n t hem t o br i ng Fr ench money wi t h

t hem. Thi s exper i ence r emi nded me of a good st or y

whi ch I hear d Thacker ay t el l t hi r t y year s ago. ( I f i t i s

i n The Ki ckl ehunj s on t he Rhi ne, or pr i nt ed el sewher e,

you wi l l suppr ess i t ) . Ei t her he hi msel f or a f r i end, I

f or get whi ch, changed a sover ei gn on l andi ng i n Hol l and,

put t he change i n one par t i cul ar pocket , and on cr ossi ng

each f r ont i er on hi s way t o t he Sout h of I t al y, bef or e t hat

count r y or Ger many had been consol i dat ed, agai n ex-

changed t he cont ent s of t hat pocket f or t he cur r ent coi n

of t he Ki ngdom, Duchy, or Republ i c he was ent er i ng.

On t ur ni ng out t he cont ent s at Napl es he f ound t hem

equi val ent t o somet hi ng under 5s. of Engl i sh money.

Bef or e I f or get i t , l et me modi f y what I sai d l ast week

as t o t he eccl esi ast i cal posi t i on of t he Pr ot est ant s her e.

2 A

354 Vacat i on Rambl es

The Angl i cans ar e now r epr esent ed by t he " Col oni al and

Cont i nent al Soci et y. " They sent a cl er gyman, who has

managed so wel l t hat we ar e now on excel l ent t er ms wi t h

our Fr ench Pr ot est ant br et hr en, t hough we have as yet

no j oi nt pl ace of wor shi p. Thi s, however , bot h congr ega-

t i ons hope t o secur e shor t l y, — i ndeed, as soon as t hey can

col l ect

400, hal f of whi c h i s al r eady i n hand. Then t he

muni c i pal i t y , or t he " Compagni e d' Et abl i s s ement des

Bai ns , " I am not s ur e whi c h, gi v e a s i t e, and anot her

400, whi c h wi l l be enough t o pay f or a s mal l c hur c h

Page 223 of 259

suf f i c i ent f or t he pr es ent c ongr egat i ons . Thes e wi l l hol d

t he bui l di ng i n c ommon, and, l et us hope, wi l l adj us t t he

hour s f or t he s er v i c es ami c abl y . At pr es ent , t he Fr enc h

Pr ot es t ant s wor s hi p i n t he buv et t e, wher e we al l dr i nk our

wat er s ; and we Angl i c ans i n an annex of t he es t abl i s h-

ment

— a l ar ge r oom dev ot ed dur i ng t he week t o Punc h

and J udy and t he mar i onet t es . Thi s r at her s c andal i s es

some of our c ompat r i ot s ; I c annot f or t he l i f e of me s ee

why . I ndeed, i t s eems t o me a v er y heal t hy l es s on t o

mos t of us , who ar e ac c us t omed t o t he r i t ual whi c h

pr ev ai l s i n s o many of our r es t or ed, or r ec ent l y bui l t ,

Engl i s h c hur c hes ,

— t he l es s on whi c h J ac ob l ear nt on hi s

f l i ght f r om hi s f at her ' s t ent s , when he s l ept i n t he des er t

wi t h a s t one f or pi l l ow, " Sur el y t he Lor d i s i n t hi s pl ac e,

and I k new i t not . " Our c ongr egat i on y es t er day was

somet hi ng ov er t hi r t y . I bel i ev e i t r i s es t o one hundr ed,

or mor e, nex t mont h. The s er v i c e was t hor oughl y hear t y ,

and I r eal l y t hi nk ev er y one mus t hav e c ome meani ng t o

say t hei r pr ay er s . I f el t a s l i ght qual m as t o how we

shoul d get on wi t h t he s i ngi ng, and c oul d not t hi nk why

t he par s on s houl d c hoos e about t he l onges t hy mn i n t he

book , f or t her e was no or gan, har moni um, or ot her

mus i c al i ns t r ument , and no appar ent s i ngi ng- men or

si ngi ng- women. Howev er , my qual ms v ani s hed when

our pas t or l ed of f wi t h a wel l - t r ai ned t enor v oi c e whi c h

put us al l at our eas e.

The r es t of our Sunday was by no means s o s uc c es s f ul ,

f or t he f et e du j our et du s oi r began s oon af t er our 1 1 A. M.

Vac at i on Rambl es 355

t / t ' j nhi r r , and l as t ed t i l l about 10 P. M. , when t he l i ght s i n

mos t of t he paper - l ant er ns had bur nt out , and peopl e had

gone home f r om t he Cas i no and t he pr omenade t o t hei r

hot el s or l odgi ngs . I am ol d- f as hi oned enough t o l i k e a

qui et Sunday ; but her e, when t he pl ac e i s en f et e, t hat i s

out of t he ques t i on, — at any r at e, i f y ou ar e a gues t at

one of t he hot el s whi c h, as t hey al mos t al l do, f ac es on

t he " Av enue Gueneau de Mus s y . " That name wi l l

pr obabl y r emi nd s ome of y our r eader s of t he abl e and

popul ar doc t or of t he Or l eans f ami l y , who ac c ompani ed

t hei r ex i l e, l i v ed i n Engl and dur i ng t he Empi r e i n

Mor t i mer St r eet , Cav endi s h Squar e, and was popul ar i n

London s oc i et y . Af t er 1870 he r et ur ned t o Fr anc e, and,

i t s eems , r edi s c ov er ed t hes e wat er s , or , at any r at e, made

t hem t he f as hi onabl e r es or t of pat i ent s i n need of ar s eni c al

t r eat ment . I n gr at i t ude, hi s name has been gi v en t o t hi s

mai n av enue of La Bour boul e, whi c h r uns t he whol e

l engt h of t he t own, par al l el t o t he Ri v er Dor dogne, whi c h

comes r us hi ng down t he v al l ey f r om Mont Dor e at a pac e

whi c h I hav e nev er s een wat er at t ai n ex c ept i n t he r api ds

bel ow Ni agar a, i n whi c h t hat s t r onges t and r as hes t of

swi mmer s , Capt ai n Webb, l os t hi s l i f e. The Av enue,

t hough par al l el wi t h, i s s ome f i f t y y ar ds f r om t he r i v er , and

t he i nt er v eni ng s pac e i s pl ant ed wi t h r ows of t r ees , under

whi c h many donk ey s and hac k s s t and f or t he c onv eni enc e

of v i s i t or s . The oppos i t e bank of t he Dor dogne, whi c h

i s c r os s ed by t wo br i dges , r i s es abr upt l y , and i s c r owned

by t he t wo r i v al c as i nos , wi t h t he mos t i mpos i ng hot el of

t he pl ac e bet ween t hem, wher e ( I am t ol d) y ou pay 5 f r .

a day ex t r a f or t he c onv eni enc e of t he onl y l i f t i n La

Page 224 of 259

Bour boul e ! The f et e of l as t Sunday was gi v en by t he

ol d Cas i no, and c ommenc ed di r ec t l y af t er d/ j eHner wi t h a

gat her i ng i n t he r ooms and i n f r ont of t he Cas i no on t he

t er r ac e, wher e t he gues t s s at at s mal l t abl es c ons umi ng

bl ac k c of f ee, abs i nt he, and ot her dr i nk s , and s t r ol l i ng now

and t hen i nt o t he bi l l i ar d- r oom, or t he r oom i n whi c h t he

j eu aux pet i t s c hev aux , and s ome ot her game of c hanc e

whi c h I di d not r ec ogni s e, wer e i n f ul l s wi ng. Ther e i s

356 Vac at i on Rambl es

an i nner r oom wher e bac c ar at and r oul et t e ar e goi ng on,

suppos ed t o be onl y open t o t i c k et s bought f r om t he

aut hor i t i es , but whi c h a y oung Engl i s hman, my nei ghbour

at t he t abl e d' hot e, t el l s me he f ound no di f f i c ul t y i n ent er -

i ng wi t hout a t i c k et . The r es t of t he f et e, c ons i s t i ng

chi ef l y of donk ey - r ac es , c l i mbi ng gr eas y pol es , and f i s hi ng

hal f - f r anc s out of meal t ubs wi t h t he mout h, c ame of t ' i n

a s mal l par k and pl at eau on t he hi l l s i de abov e t he Cas i no.

I us ed t o enj oy donk ey - r ac es as a boy , when at our

count r y f eas t s eac h boy r ode hi s nei ghbour ' s donk ey , and

t he l as t pas t t he pos t was t he wi nner , and s houl d pr obabl y

hav e gone up t he hi l l t o wi t nes s a Fr enc h r ac e, but t hat

I f ound t hat her e eac h boy r i des hi s own donk ey , and t he

f i r s t pas t t he pos t wi ns . Thi s t ak es al l t he f un out of

t he r ac e, s o I abs t ai ned. Ther e wer e a f ew s ec ond- r at e

f i r ewor k s af t er dar k , and t he Cas i no and mos t of t he

hot el s wer e pr et t i l y l i ght ed, and t he t r ees hung wi t h

yel l ow paper l ant er ns whi c h l ook ed l i k e bi g or anges , but

t o t he Engl i s hman, mor e or l es s ac c us t omed t o t he gr eat

Br oc k ' s per f or manc es , t he i l l umi nat i on bus i nes s was v er y

f l at .

Comi t e des Fet es

17t h J ul y 1893.

An Engl i s hman c an s c ar c el y av oi d t he danger of hav i ng

hi s nat i onal v ani t y f ed i n t hi s La Bour boul e. A new

hot el i s bei ng bui l t on a f i ne s i t e abov e t he Dor dogne,

j us t bey ond t he new Cas i no, and I hear on t he bes t

aut hor i t y t hat t he pr opr i et or means t o hav e i t f ur ni s hed

f r om t op t o bot t om by Mes s r s . Mapl e. As t hi s wi l l

i nv ol v e pay i ng a dut y of f r om 30 t o 50 per c ent on t he

ar t i c l es i mpor t ed, i t i s not eas y t o s ee wher e t he pr of i t

can c ome i n, as t he mos t pr ej udi c ed J ohn Bul l wi l l

sc ar c el y deny t hat nat i v e Fr enc h f ur ni t ur e i s about as

good, and not v er y muc h dear er t han Engl i s h. I c an

onl y ac c ount f or i t by t he des i r e of al l pur v ey or s her e —

f r om t he c hi ef hot el - k eeper s t o t he deal er s i n t he pr et t y

Vac at i on Rambl es 357

Auv er gne j ewel l er y and t he donk ey - women — t o get us

as c us t omer s ,

— not , per haps , s o muc h f r om l ov e or admi r a-

t i on f or us , as bec aus e we hav e s o muc h l es s power of r e-

mons t r anc e or r es i s t anc e t o t hei r c har ges . Unl es s he s ees

some f l agr ant ov er c har ge i n hi s hot el bi l l , t he Br i t on does

not c ar e t o ai r hi s c ol l oqui al Fr enc h i n di s c us s i ng i t ems

wi t h t he f or mer , who onl y meet hi m wi t h pol i t e s hr ugs ;

Page 225 of 259

and as f or t he ot her s , t hey at onc e f al l bac k upon an

Auv er gnes e pat oi s , at l eas t as di f f er ent f r om or di nar y

Fr enc h as a Dur ham mi ner ' s v er nac ul ar i s f r om a Wes t

count r y man' s . What s at i s f ac t i on c an c ome of r emon-

st r at i ng about 2 f r . , ev en i n f aul t l es s gr ammat i c al Fr enc h,

when i t onl y br i ngs on y ou a t or r ent of ex pl anat i on of

whi c h y ou c annot under s t and one wor d i n t en 1

But t he des i r e t o mak e us f eel at home has anot her —

I may al mos t s ay a pat het i c — s i de. Thus t he Comi U des

f et es s par es no ef f or t t o meet our s uppos ed nec es s i t i es , and

has not onl y pr ov i ded t enni s - gr ounds and ot her c onv eni -

enc es f or l e s por t , but f or t he l as t t en day s has been pr e-

par i ng f or a gr and c has s e an r enar d, as a s pec i al c ompl i -

ment , I am t ol d, t o t he Engl i s h v i s i t or s . The gr and

f eat ur e of t he hunt i s a r ec her c he' l unc heon i n an at t r ac t i v e

spot i n t he f or es t , at t he end of t he r un, at whi c h t he

May or pr es i des , and t o whi c h t he ot her c i v i c di gni t ar i es

go i n f ul l c os t ume, ac c ompani ed by a c hi ef hunt s man and

t wo c has s eur s wi t h t r i dent s — of al l s t r ange equi pment s f or

a f ox - hunt ! For t hi s l unc heon t he c har ge i s 5 f r . ; but ,

so f ar as I c an l ear n, y ou may j oi n t he c has e wi t hout

par t ak i ng. The ques t i on nat ur al l y oc c ur s : " How i f

Renar d wi l l not r un t hat way , or c ons ent t o di e wi t hi n

eas y di s t anc e of t he l unc heon 1 " and t he ans wer of t he

May or woul d, I s uppos e, be Dogber r y ' s : " Let hi m go,

and t hank God y ou ar e r i d of a k nav e. " But , i n any

cas e, t he Comi t d des f et es ar e pr epar ed f or s uc h a mi s -

hap, f or t hey hav e had f our f ox es r eady f or s ome day s ,

i n a l ar ge ov en — of al l pl ac es i n t he wor l d ! and one of

t hes e wi l l s ur el y be i nduc ed t o t ak e t he pr oper c our s e,

whi c h i s c ar ef ul l y mar k ed out . As t wo of t hem hav e

1

58 Vac at i on Rambl es

come f r om Swi t z er l and, and t her e c annot be muc h t o

oc c upy or amus e Swi s s f ox es i n an ov en, ex c ept quar r el -

l i ng wi t h t hei r Fr enc h c ous i ns , I s houl d doubt as t o t he

condi t i on of t he l ot on t he day of t he hunt , ev en i f al l

sur v i v e t o t hat dat e. Thi s , I am s or r y t o s ay , c annot be

f i x ed as y et , f or i t s eems t hat no Engl i s h v i s i t or has been

f ound who wi l l t ak e a t i c k et ; s o I f ear my " c our s e " may

be ov er bef or e t he c has s e c omes of f . I n t hat c as e I s hal l

al way s bear a gr udge agai ns t y our l i v el y c ont empor ar y ,

t he Dai l y Gr ai Mc , who, i t s eems , pr i nt ed an i l l us t r at ed

ac c ount of t he c has s e of l as t s ummer , t o whi c h t he pr es ent

abs t i nenc e of t he Br i t i s h s por t s man t o- day i s gener al l y

at t r i but ed. Can we wonder at t he want of under s t andi ng

bet ween t he t wo peopl es when one c omes ac r os s s uc h

st r ange pi ec es of f ar c e as t hi s , meant , I bel i ev e, f or a

genui ne c ompl i ment and adv anc e t owar ds good- f el l ows hi p?

I wi s h I c oul d s peak hopef ul l y upon mor e s er i ous t hi ngs

t han t he c has s e au r enar d ; but i n mor e t han one di r ec t i on

t hi ngs s eem t o me t o be dr i f t i ng, or goi ng bac k , under

t he Republ i c . E. g. a f r i end of mi ne, who pr ef er s s mok i ng

t he c i gar s he i s us ed t o, or der ed a box f r om hi s t obac c oni s t

Page 226 of 259

i n Manchest er , who ent r ust ed t hem t o t he Cont i nent al

Par cel s Del i ver y Company on 15t h June. Next day,

t hough not i ce had been gi ven of payment of al l char ges

on del i ver y, t hey wer e st opped at t he Gar e du Nor d, at

Par i s, wher e t he st at i on- mast er r ef used t o f or war d t hem

unt i l he got an under t aki ng i n wr i t i ng f r om my f r i end t o

pay al l char ges. Thi s was sent at once, but pr oduced no

ef f ect f or t hr ee days, when anot her l et t er ar r i ved — not

now f r om t he st at i on- mast er , but f r om a per son si gni ng

hi msel f " Cont r i but i ons Agent " — sayi ng t hat under t aki ng

No. 1 was not i n pr oper f or m. Ther eupon, under t aki ng

No. 2 i s sent ; but st i l l not hi ng happens, and my f r i end

had al most gi ven up hope of get t i ng hi s ci gar s when he

bet hought hi m of advi si ng wi t h a deput y, who was l ucki l y

st ayi ng her e i n t he same hot el . That gent l eman seemed

not at al l sur pr i sed, but of f er ed t o wr i t e t o hi s secr et ar y

i n Par i s t o go t o t he Gar e du Nor d and l ook af t er t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 359

box. The of f er was, of cour se, t hankf ul l y accept ed, wi t h

t he r esul t t hat t he ci gar s wer e sent on at once, wi t h t he

f ol l owi ng bi l l : " Dr oi t d' ent r ee, 38 f r . 77 c. ; t i mbr e

d' acqui t a caut i on, 7 c. ; t oi l e d' embal l age — consi gnat i on,

40 f r . 27 c. : t ot al , 79 f r . 11 c. " — whi ch about doubl ed

t he or i gi nal cost . Thi s i nst ance of t he sl ovenl i ness ( i f not

wor se) of a r ai l way company and t he Cust oms has been

qui t e ecl i psed, however , by t he Post Of f i ce. Anot her f r i end

post ed a l et t er her e t o hi s si st er i n Engl and, but unl ucki l y

i n t he f or enoon, when t he next depar t ur e was f or Bor deaux.

To t hat t own, accor di ngl y, hi s l et t er went , and t hence t o

Amer i ca, whence i n due cour se — i . e. at t he end of t hr ee

weeks — i t r eached i t s dest i nat i on i n Engl and. Agai n, a

l ady her e r ecei ved sever al di vi dends mor e t han a week

ago, whi ch she f or war ded t o her husband i n Engl and i n a

r egi st er ed l et t er . Thi s has never r eached hi m ; and t he

Post - Of f i ce of f i ci al s her e ar e maki ng i nqui r i es ( ver y

l ei sur el y ones) as t o what has become of i t . Then t he

cl er gyman of t he chur ch her e, havi ng a payment t o make

i n hi s par i sh i n Engl and, sent t he money, and got t he

of f i ci al r ecei pt sever al post s bef or e he r ecei ved a r emi nder

f r om t he same of f i ci al ( dat ed a week ear l i er t han t he

r ecei pt ) t hat t he payment was due ; and l ast l y, pour cor nbl e,

as t hey say her e, a count y J. P. has never r ecei ved at al l

t he f or mal summons f r om hi s Hi gh Sher i f f , sent some

weeks si nce, t o ser ve on t he gr and j ur y at t he comi ng

Assi zes ! What ever t he consequences may be of ut t er l y

i gnor i ng such summons, he has t hus i ncur r ed t hem, whi ch,

f or al l I know, may be equal t o t he penal t i es of pr aemuni r e.

Put ser i ousl y, I f ear t he i ncubus of t he Republ i can super -

st i t i on, as you have def i ned i t , i s spr eadi ng f ast and f ar

i n t hi s spl endi d l and. The cent r al i sat i on f ost er ed by t he

Second Empi r e, and f avour ed by t he Republ i c f or t he l ast

t went y year s, seems t o have demor al i sed t he nat i onal

ner ve- cent r e at Par i s under t he shadow of t he Ei f f el Tower

— whi ch,

Li ke a t al l bul l y, l i f t s i t s head and l i es,

— and t o be spr eadi ng i t s bal ef ul i ni l uence t hr ough t he

Page 227 of 259

360 Vacat i on Rambl es

Depar t ment s. At any r at e, t hat i s t he onl y expl anat i on I

can suggest f or t he mar ked det er i or at i on and pr esent f l abbi -

ness of al l Gover nment depar t ment s wi t h whi ch t he f or ei gn

vi si t or comes i n cont act . I am gl ad t o be abl e, however ,

t o r ecor d, bef or e cl osi ng t hi s, t hat t he r egi st er ed l et t er

cont ai ni ng di vi dend war r ant s ment i oned above has r eached

i t s dest i nat i on i n Engl and.

Dogs and Fl ower s

La Bour boul e, 1Uh Jul y.

Dur i ng t he gr eat er par t of our st ay, t he t heat r e her e

was devot ed t o comi c and ot her oper at i c per f or mances,

whi ch I di d not car e f or , and so scar cel y gl anced at t he

pl ay- bi l l s, post ed up dai l y i n our hot el ; and was not even

t empt ed by t he announcement of " une seul e r epr esent a-

t i on ext r aor di nai r e " of Le Songe d' une Nui t d' EU, as I di d

not l i ke t o have my i dea of A Mi dsummer Ni ght ' s Dr eam

di sor der ed by a Fr ench met r i cal ver si on. When t oo l at e,

I sor el y r egr et t ed i t , as, had I even r ead t he cast e, I

shoul d have gone, and been abl e t o gi ve you a t r ust -

wor t hy r epor t , — f or t he t hr ee pr i nci pal char act er s wer e

Wi l l i am Shakespear e— by M. Der ei ms, of t he oper a ( who

woul d si ng hi s gr eat song of La f i ei ne de Saba) — Fal st af f " ,

and Queen El i zabet h ! Next mor ni ng I cat echi sed a young

Engl i shman, whose r epor t was, as near as I can r ecol l ect ,

as f ol l ows : " Wel l , t her e wasn' t much of our Mi dsummer

Ni ght ' s Dr eam i n i t , no Ober on and Ti t ani a, or Bot t om, or

al l t hat f ai r y busi ness. Queen El i zabet h and one of her

l adi es went out at ni ght di sgui sed, t o a sor t of Casi no or

Cr emor ne Gar dens" [ what woul d Secr et ar y Ceci l have

sai d t o such an escapade?] , " and comi ng away t hey met

Shakespear e and Fal st af f ' , and had a good t i me; and

Fal st af f sang a song whi ch br ought t he house down. Then,

as t he Queen f al l s i n l ove wi t h Shakespear e, t hey get some

gi r l t o mar r y hi m r i ght away. " One mor e l ost oppor -

Vacat i on Rambl es 36 1

t uni t y, and t o t hi nk t hat I shal l pr obabl y never get

anot her chance ! —

Ther e i s a f l ower t hat shi nes so br i ght ,

They cal l i t mar i gol d- a :

And he t hat wol d not when he mi ght ,

He shal l not when he wol d- a.

As you ar e f ond of dog- l or e, her e i s a sampl e f r om

Auver gne. Just opposi t e our hot el l i ves t he young

Scot ch ( not I r i sh, as I t hi nk I cal l ed hi m l ast week)

doct or . Hi s wi f e owns a cl ever pug, whose f r i endshi p

any sel f - r espect i ng dog woul d be anxi ous, I shoul d say, t o

Page 228 of 259

cul t i vat e. One of t he r at her scr at ch - pack gat her ed f or

t he comi ng f ox- chase, who wander ed as t hey pl eased about

t he t own, seems t o have shar ed my vi ew, f or ever y mor n-

i ng, bet ween caf d and dej euner , he came and pai d a vi si t of

about f i ve mi nut es t o Mr s. Gi l chr i st ' s pug, i n t he doct or ' s

vest i bul e, al ways open t o man and cl og. At t he end of

hi s cal l , he t r ot t ed of f down t he avenue t o what ever ot her

busi ness he mi ght have i n hand. Now, hi s vi si t s coul d

not have been amat or y, as bot h ar e of t he mascul i ne sex,

nor coul d t hey have been gast r onomi c, f or he i nvar i abl y

r ef used t he f ood whi ch Mr s. Gi l chr i st of f er ed hi m. What

ot her concl usi on i s possi bl e t han t hat he came t o t al k over

t he gossi p af l oat i n t he dog- wor l d of La Bour boul e 1

Last l y, as t o t he excur si ons. These ar e numer ous, and

ver y i nt er est i ng i n al l ways, f or you dr i ve t hr ough gr eat ,

sad pi ne- f or est s ( i n whi ch I was ast oni shed t o see many

of t he t r ees gr ay wi t h t he weepi ng moss whi ch makes t he

Loui si ana and Texas f or est s so mel anchol y) and br eezy

heat hs al l agl ow wi t h wi l d f l ower s, get t i ng ever y now and

t hen i ndescr i babl y gl or i ous gl i mpses of t he r i ch pl ai n

whi ch st r et ches away f r om t hi s backbone of Cent r al Fr ance

t o t he Al ps. The f l or a i s qui t e beyond me, but I r ecog-

ni sed many var i et i es of hear t ' s- ease, f ox- gl oves, gent i ans,

amongst t hem an exqui si t e bl ue var i et y, and t he ai r was

of t en scent ed wi t h meadow- sweet or wi l d- t hyme. Then

al most ever y mount ai n- t op i s cr owned by a pecul i ar l y

362 Vacat i on Rambl es

shaped bl ock of dar k r ock, whi ch l ooks as i f some huge

saur i an, di sgust ed wi t h a changi ng wor l d, had cr awl ed up

t her e t o di e and get pet r i f i ed. They must , however , have

been even bi gger t han t he At l ani osawms i mmani s, t he

bi ggest of t he f ami l y yet f ound, I bel i eve. I wel l r e-

member t he del i ght of Dr . Agnew, of New Yor k, when

t he Amer i can geol ogi st s came upon i t s t hi gh bone, t wo f eet

l onger t han t hat of any Eur opean monst er . I t had become

agat e, and I have a scar f - pi n made of a pol i shed f r agment ,

and pr esent ed t o me by t he t r i umphant doct or . I cannot

t el l you what t hese r ocks r eal l y ar e, as I made no ascent ,

pr ef er r i ng nowadays, l i ke dear Lowel l , " t o make my

ascent s by t el escope. "

But t he human i nt er est of t he excur si ons, as usual , f ar

exceeds t he bot ani cal or geol ogi cal . The chi ef of t hese i s

t he " Tour d' Auver gne, " t he seat of t he Count who en-

l i st ed t o r epel i nvasi on, but never woul d t ake a com-

mi ssi on f r om Republ i c or Napol eon, and di ed i n bat t l e,

t he " pr emi er gr enadi er de l a Fr ance. " Ther e i s not hi ng

l ef t of hi s t ower except t he f oundat i ons, and a dungeon

on t he hi gh r ock, on whi ch a nat i ve woman sel l s phot o-

gr aphs and r el i cs, qui t e as genui ne, I shoul d say, as most

such. Opposi t e, acr oss a deep val l ey, r i ses anot her r ock

cr owned by a chapel , whi ch i s appr oached by a st eep pat h,

up whi ch once a year goes a pr ocessi on, past t he seven

st at i ons, at each of whi ch t her e i s a cr uci f i x, and on t he

l owest a f i gur e t he si ze of l i f e. Chr i st i ani t y, t hey say, has

di ed down ver y l ow i n Auver gne. I shoul d doubt i t , as

I saw no si gn of def acement , ei t her her e or on any of t he

r oadsi de cr osses, whi ch ar e ever ywher e. I f ear we coul d

har dl y say as much i f we had t hem— as I wi sh we had —

Page 229 of 259

on ever y Engl i sh hi gh- r oad. On t he wal l s of t he vi l l age

whi ch cl ust er s r ound t he si de of t he keep, a pl acar d ( of

whi ch I encl ose a copy) i nt er est ed me much. The t hr ee

Muni ci pal Counci l l or s t her e gi ve t hei r r easons f or r esi gn-

i ng t hei r seat s on t he Counci l . On t he whol e, I t hi nk t hey

wer e wr ong, and shoul d have st ayed and " t oughed i t out . "

I shoul d l i ke t o know how i t st r i kes vou. You wi l l see

Vacat i on Rambl es 363

t hat t he post er bear s a st amp. Mi ght not our Chancel l or

of t he Exchequer r ai se a t i dy sum t hat way 1 What a

l ump Pear s, Hudson, Epps, or Van Hout en and Co. woul d

have t o pay, and ear n t he t hanks of a gr at ef ul count r y

t oo ! But I must not t r y your pat i ence or space f ur t her ,

so wi l l onl y not e t he Roman r emai ns at Mont Dor e,

anot her heal t h- r esor t of t he Dor dogne Val l ey, f our mi l es

above La Bour boul e, whi ch ar e wor t h goi ng al l t he way

t o see, as I woul d advi se any of your r eader s t o do who

ar e l ooki ng out f or an i nt er est i ng count r ysi de, wi t h as

f i ne ai r as any i n t he wor l d, i n whi ch t o spend t hei r

comi ng hol i days.

Dut ch Boys

The Hague, 1st May 1894.

Much may be sai d bot h f or and agai nst br eaki ng one' s

good r esol ut i ons, but no one, I shoul d t hi nk, wi l l deny

t he mer i t of maki ng t hem. Wel l , si r , bef or e st ar t i ng

f or my Whi t sunt i de j aunt t hi s year , I r esol ved f i r ml y

t hat not hi ng shoul d i nduce me t o send you any mor e

l et t er s over t hi s si gnat ur e. Have I not been t r yi ng your

pat i ence, and t he l ong- suf f er i ng of your r eader s any t i me

t hese t hi r t y year s, wi t h my cr ude f i r st i mpr essi ons of

ci t i es and t hei r i nhabi t ant s, f r om Const ant i nopl e t o

t he Upper Mi ssour i 1 " Sur el y, " I sai d t o mysel f , " sat

pr at a bi ber unt . " What can young Engl and i n t he l ast

decade of t he cent ur y — who enj oy, or at any r at e

r ead, Dodo, and The Fabi an Essays, and The I f car cnl / /

Twi ns — car e or want t o know about t he not i ons of

an ol d f ogey, whose f ai t hs — or f ads, as t hey woul d cal l

t hem — on soci al and pol i t i cal pr obl ems wer e f or med,

i f not st er eot yped, i n t he f i r st hal f 1 What , t hen, has

shaken t hi s wi se r esol ve ? You mi ght guess f or a week

and never come wi t hi n mi l es of t he answer . I t was

t he si ght of a gr oup of Dut ch boys pl ayi ng l eap- f r og i n

f r ont of t hi s hot el , and t he cont r ast whi ch came unbi dden

i nt o my head bet ween t he chances of Dut ch and Engl i sh

364 Vacat i on Rambl es

boys i n t hi s mat t er , and t he di f f er ent use t hey make of

t hem.

I n f r ont of t hi s hot el l i es t he l ar ge open space, now

pl ant ed wi t h t r ees, and about t he si ze of Gr osvenor

Squar e, whi ch i s cal l ed " Tour nooi vel d, " and was i n t he

Mi ddl e Ages t he t i l t - yar d of t he dought y young Dut ch

candi dat es f or kni ght hood. The por t i on of t hi s squar e

Page 230 of 259

i mmedi at el y i n f r ont of t he hot el , about 40 yar ds deep and

150 br oad, i s mar ked of f f r om t he r est by a semi ci r cul ar

r ow of gr ani t e post s, r at her over t hr ee f eet i n hei ght , and

t hr ee t o f our yar ds apar t , t wo of t hem bei ng cl ose t o l amp-

post s, but t he l i ne ot her wi se unbr oken. No chai n connect s

t hese post s, and t hey have no spi ke on t he t op of t hem.

As I st ood at t he door t he mor ni ng af t er my ar r i val ,

admi r i ng t he f i ne l i nden- t r ees i n f ul l f ol i age, ent er f our

Dut ch boys f r om t he l ef t , who, wi t hout a wor d, br oke at

once i nt o si ngl e f i l e, and di d " f ol l ow my l eader " over al l

t he post s t i l l t hey got t o t he end on t he ext r eme r i ght ,

and di sappear ed qui et l y down a si de st r eet . Wel l , you

wi l l say, woul dn' t f our Engl i sh boys have done j ust t he

same % and I answer , Yes, cer t ai nl y, so f ar as pl ayi ng

l eap- f r og over t he post s goes ; but t hey woul d have t o

come out her e t o f i nd such a r ow of post s i n t he mi ddl e

of a ci t y. At any r at e, i n t he ci t y wi t h whi ch I am

best acquai nt ed i n Engl and, t he f ew post s t her e f i t f or

l eap- f r og ar e connect ed wi t h chai ns and have spi kes on

t hei r t ops. Mor eover , do I not pass dai l y up a f l i ght of

st eps, f enced on ei t her si de by a br oad i r on bani st er ,

whi ch was obvi ousl y i nt ended by Pr ovi dence f or passi ng

boys t o get a del i ci ous sl i de down 1 But , si r , no Engl i sh

boy on hi s way t o school or on an er r and has ever sl i d

down t hose bani st er s, f or t he Br i t i sh Bumbl e has had

pr ohi bi t or y knobs pl aced on t hem at shor t i nt er val s f or

no possi bl e r eason except t o pr event boys sl i di ng down.

The f ai t h t hat al l mat er i al t hi ngs shoul d be made t o ser ve

t he gr eat est good of t he gr eat est number i s sur el y as

wi del y hel d i n Engl and as i n Hol l and, and yet , her e ar e

t he t ops of t hese Dut ch post s cul ot U, i f I may say so,

Vacat i on Rambl es 365

wor n smoot h and pol i shed by t he many gener at i ons of

boys who have enj oyed l eap- f r og over t hem, whi l e t he

Br i t i sh post s and bani st er s have gi ven pl easur e t o no

human bei ng but Bumbl e f r om t he day t hey wer e put up.

But i t was not of t he Dut ch post s but t he Dut ch boys

t hat I i nt ended t o wr i t e, f or t hey cer t ai nl y st r uck me as

di f f er i ng i n t wo par t i cul ar s f r om our boys, t hus. Two of

t he post s, as I have sai d, ar e so cl ose t o t he l amp- post s

t hat you can' t vaul t over t hem wi t hout comi ng f ul l but t

agai nst t he l amp- post on t he ot her si de. When t he l eader

came t o t he f i r st of t hem he di d not pass i t , as I expect ed,

but j ust vaul t ed on t o t he t op, and sat t her e whi l e he

passed hi s l eg bet ween t he post and t he l amp- post , and

t hen j umped down and went on t o t he next . Ever y one

of t he r est f ol l owed hi s exampl e gr avel y and wi t hout a

wor d ; wher eas, had t hey been Engl i sh boys, t her e woul d

have been a bol t past t he l eader as soon as he was seat ed,

and a r ace wi t h much shout i ng f or t he l ead over t he

r emai ni ng pi l l ar s. I have been st udyi ng t he Dut ch boy

ever si nce, and am convi nced t hat he i s t he most si l ent

and most " t hor ough " of any of hi s speci es I have ever

come acr oss ; and t he boy i s f at her t o t he man i n bot h

qual i t i es. On Whi t - Monday t hi s ci t y was cr owded, al l

t he ci t i zens and count r y- f ol k f r om t he subur bs bei ng i n

t he st r eet s and gar dens ; t he gal l er i es and museums, oddl y

enough, bei ng cl osed f or t he day. Wal ki ng about amongst

t hem t he si l ence was r eal l y r at her pr ovoki ng. At l ast I

t ook t o count i ng t he coupl es we met who wer e obvi ousl y

Page 231 of 259

j ust mar r i ed, or cour t i ng, and ought at any r at e t o have

had somet hi ng t o say t o each ot her . Out of el even

coupl es i n one st r eet , onl y one wer e t al ki ng, t hough al l

l ooked qui t e happy and cont ent . I t i s t he same ever y -

wher e. As we near ed t he l andi ng- pl ace at t he Hook of

Hol l and, our st eamer ' s bows wer e t oo f ar out , and a r ope

had t o be t hr own f r om t he shor e. Ther e wer e at l east

t went y l i censed por t er s wai t i ng f or us, i n cl ean whi t e

j acket s, — one of t hese, wi t hout a wor d, j ust coi l ed a r ope

and f l ung i t . I t was mi ssed t wi ce by t he sai l or i n our

366 Vacat i on Rambl es

bows, and f el l i nt o t he wat er , out of whi ch t he t hr ower

dr ew i t , and j ust coi l ed and t hr ew i t agai n wi t hout a wor d

of obj ur gat i on or r emonst r ance, and t he t hi r d t i me

successf ul l y. Not one of t he whi t e- j acket ed men who

st ood r ound had ut t er ed a syl l abl e of advi ce or comment ;

but what a Babel woul d have ar i sen i n l i ke case at t he

pi er - heads of Cal ai s or Di eppe, or f or t hat mat t er at Dover

or Li ver pool . No wonder t hat Wi l l i am t he Si l ent i s t he

t ypi cal her o of Dut chmen ; t her e ar e t wo st at ues of hi m

i n t he best si t es i n t hi s ci t y, and hal f a dozen por t r ai t s i n

t he best pl aces i n t he gal l er i es. Hosea Bi gl ow' s —

Tal k, i f you keep i t , pays i t s keep,

But gabbl e' s t he shor t r oad t o r ui n.

" Pi s gr at i s ( gal s hal f pr i ce) , but cheap

At no pr i ce when i t hi nder s doi ng, —

ought t o be put i nt o Dut ch as t he nat i onal mot t o. Then

as t o t hor oughness. Take t he most not abl e exampl e of

i t f i r st . We have been dr i vi ng al l r ound f or some days,

and have onl y once come t o a sl ope up whi ch our hor se

had t o wal k. When we got t o t he t op, t her e was t he sea

on t he ot her si de, obvi ousl y even t o t he unt r ai ned eye at

a consi der abl y hi gher l evel t han t he gr een f i el ds t hr ough

whi ch we had j ust been dr i vi ng. Of cour se i t i s an ol d

st or y, t he Dut chman' s l ong war wi t h t he Ger man Ocean,

but one never r eal i ses i t t i l l one comes t o dr i ve uphi l l t o

t he sea, and t hen i t f ai r l y t akes one' s br eat h away. I

was deepl y i mpr essed, and t ook advant age of a chance

t hat of f er ed of t al ki ng t he subj ect over wi t h an exper t ,

who, l i ke most Dut chmen, happi l y speaks Engl i sh f l uent l y.

Far f r om expr essi ng any anxi et y as t o t he l and al r eady

won, he i nf or med me t hat t hey ar e ser i ousl y cont empl at i ng

oper at i ons agai nst t he Zui der Zee, and dr i vi ng hi m

per manent l y out of Hol l and ! And I decl ar e I bel i eve

t hey wi l l do i t , and so wi n t he r i ght , al one, so f ar as I

know, amongst t he nat i ons, of sayi ng t o t he sea : " Hi t her -

t o shal t t hou come and no f ur t her , and her e shal l t hy

pr oud waves be st ayed. " One mor e exampl e, — t hei r

Vacat i on Rambl es 367

t hor oughness as t o cl eanl i ness. Not onl y t he pavement s

of t he mai n t hor oughf ar es, but al l t he si de- st r eet s ar e

t hor oughl y wel l washed and cl eansed dai l y. When you

wal k out i n t he ear l y mor ni ng you mi ght eat your br eak -

Page 232 of 259

f ast anywher e wi t h per f ect comf or t on t he si dewal ks. We

had t o l ook f or mor e t han a quar t er of an hour t o f i nd a

bi t of paper i n t he st r eet s, and t he wi ndows i n t he back

st r eet s, even of houses t o l et , ar e r ubbed br i ght and

pol i shed t o a poi nt whi ch must be t he despai r of t he pass -

i ng Engl i sh housewi f e. Why ar e Dut ch house- mai dens so

i ncompar abl y mor e di l i gent and cl ean t han Engl i sh % Can

i t be t hei r Pur i t an br i ngi ng- up 1 I n shor t , t en days'

r esi dence her e — I have never bef or e done anyt hi ng but

r ush t hr ough t he count r y on my way east — seems l i kel y

t o make me r evi ew ol d pr ej udi ces, and t o excl ai m, " I f I

wer e not an Engl i shman, I woul d be a Dut chman ! " One

may r ead and enj oy Mot l ey wi t hout r eal l y appr eci at i ng

t hi s si l ent and " t hor ough" peopl e, or under st andi ng how

i t came t o pass t hat by t hem, i n t hi s t i ny and pr ecar i ous

cor ner of Eur ope, " t he gr eat del i ver ance was wr ought

out . "

" Poor Paddy- Land! " — I

6t h Oct . 1894.

Si x weeks ago, when I was consi der i ng wher e I shoul d

go f or my aut umn hol i day, some r emar ks of your s de-

ci ded me " t o gi ve poor Paddy- l and a t ur n " ( t he phr ase i s

not mi ne, but t hat of t he f i r st housemai d I came acr oss

i n Dubl i n) . When one has been t al ki ng and t hi nki ng

f or t he l ast ei ght year s of l i t t l e el se t han t hat " di st r ess -

f ul count r y, " i t cer t ai nl y seemed a f ai r suggest i on t hat

one mi ght as wel l go and l ook at i t when one got t he

chance. So I have scr ambl ed r ound f r om Dubl i n t o

Ker r y, and f r om Cor k t o t he Gi ant ' s Causeway, and can

bear hear t y wi t ness t o t he soundness of your advi ce.

For a f l yi ng vi si t of a f ew weeks, t hough i nsuf f i ci ent f or

any ser i ous st udy of a peopl e or count r y, may gr eat l y

368 Vacat i on Rambl es

hel p one i n j udgi ng bot h of t hem f r om one' s or di nar y

st andpoi nt at home.

Of cour se, t he f i r st obj ect of an Engl i shman who has

not l ost hi s head must be t o ascer t ai n whet her t he I r i sh

peopl e r eal l y l ong f or a separ at e Par l i ament , and a

sever ance of al l connect i on wi t h t he r est of t he Empi r e.

Wel l , si r , I was pr epar ed t o f i nd t hat t he men i n t he

st r eet — car - dr i ver s, boat men, wai t er s, and f el l ow- t r avel l er s

on t he r ai l ways — woul d, t o a gr eat ext ent , adapt t hei r

opi ni ons t o what ever t hey mi ght t hi nk woul d pl ease t hei r

quest i oner , but cer t ai nl y was qui t e unpr epar ed f or t he

absol ut e unani mi t y wi t h whi ch I was assur ed t hat Home

Rul e i s dead. I t i s onl y t he Amer i can- I r i sh, and espe-

ci al l y t he " Bi ddys of New Yor k, " so my i nf or mant s

pr ot est ed, " who want t o br eak up t he Uni on. " I was

war ned, however , as t o t he man i n t he st r eet . " You

must r emember t hat our peopl e ar e f ul l of i magi nat i on,

and you must t ake of f a l ar ge di scount f r om al l t hey t el l

you ; but you' l l al ways f i nd a gr oundwor k of f act at t he

bot t om of t hei r st or i es. " A good pi ece of advi ce, whi ch

a pr of essi onal f r i end i n Dubl i n st ar t ed me wi t h, and

Page 233 of 259

whi ch I f ound t o be t r ue enough, except t hat wher e l ocal

pol i t i cs or t he l and came i n, t he gr oundwor k of f act was

apt t o be t oo mi nut e t o be easi l y di scer ned. Take, as an

exampl e, a st or y whi ch was t ol d me on t he spot by a

t hor oughl y t r ust wor t hy wi t ness. Towar ds t he end of

Mr . For st er ' s Chi ef - Secr et ar yshi p a sensat i on message

was f l ashed t o New Yor k t hat a Gover nment st r onghol d

had been t aken by t he I nvi nci bl es, t he gar r i son havi ng

sur r ender ed wi t h al l t he guns and st or es. Thi s announce-

ment pr oduced a l i ber al r esponse i n dol l ar s f r om t he

ot her si de, par t i cul ar l y f r om " t he Bi ddys of New Yor k. "

Now f or t he " gr oundwor k of f act " under l yi ng t hi s

super st r uct ur e. The Gover nment have, i t seems, on

t hei r hands a number of Mar t el l o t ower s on t he sout her n

coast whi ch ar e usel ess f or mi l i t ar y pur poses. A band

of some dozen " bhoys, " headed by a not or i ous I nvi nci bl e,

came out of Cor k one summer eveni ng and summoned

Vacat i on Rambl es 369

t he gar r i son of one of t hese Mar t el l o t ower s. The gar r i son

( an el der l y pensi oner ) , who was at t ea wi t h hi s wi f e and

chi l dr en, wi sel y sur r ender ed at di scr et i on ; wher eupon

t he pat r i ot s t ook possessi on of t he si ngl e cannon and

some ol d musket s and ammuni t i on, whi ch l at t er t hey

car r i ed of f next mor ni ng, when t hey abandoned t he t ower

and cannon on t he appr oach of t he pol i ce. But t hough

t he gr oundwor k of f act as t o t he condi t i on of t he Home

Rul e agi t at i on may be i nf i ni t esi mal , t her e i s ver y ser i ous

appr ehensi on st i l l on t he Land Quest i on, upon whi ch I

f ound i t di f f i cul t t o dr aw t he man i n t he st r eet . I was

f or t unat e enough, however , t o come acr oss sever al r esi dent

l andl or ds and pr of essi onal men, bot h Cat hol i c and Pr o-

t est ant , who, one and al l , l ook wi t h t he gr avest di st r ust

at t he oper at i on of r ecent l and l egi sl at i on. The Com-

mi ssi oner s who admi ni st er t hese Act s have, unf or t unat el y,

t he st r ongest i nt er est i n pr ol ongi ng t he pr esent st at e of

uncer t ai nt y. Thei r appoi nt ment s wi l l end wi t h t he

cessat i on of appeal s by t enant s f or f ur t her r educt i ons of

r ent , whi ch, under t he ci r cumst ances, does not seem l i kel y

t o come about bef or e t he l andl or ds' i nt er est has been

par ed down bi t by bi t t i l l i t t ouches pr ai r i e- val ue. The

pr esent ut t er conf usi on and uncer t ai nt y i s at any r at e a

st r i ki ng obj ect - l esson as t o t he danger s of meddl i ng wi t h

f r eedom of cont r act by Act s of Par l i ament .

When I l anded i n I r el and, I was under t he i mpr essi on

— - f or whi ch I t hi nk you, si r , and per haps t he l at e Lor d

Beaconsf i el d, wi t h hi s di ct um about t he " mel anchol y

ocean, " wer e r esponsi bl e — t hat t her e i s a not e of sadness

under l yi ng t he super f i ci al gai et y of t he I r i sh char act er ,

as i s t he case wi t h most Cel t s. Wel l , whet her i t be f r om

nat ur al i ncapaci t y, and t hat each obser ver onl y br i ngs

wi t h hi m a l i mi t ed power of seei ng bel ow t he sur f ace i n

such mat t er s, i n any case I whol l y f ai l ed t o di scer n any

such char act er i st i c i n Cent r al or Sout h I r el and, t hough

t her e may be a t r ace of i t per haps i n t he Nor t h, wher e,

by t he way, t hey ar e not Cel t s. On t he cont r ar y, t he

r emar k of a f r i endl y and communi cat i ve Ki l l ar ney car -

1 v ,

Page 234 of 259

370 Vac at i on Rambl es

man, " Shur e, s i r , we al way s t r y t o get on t he s unny s i de

of t he bus h, l i k e t he l i t t l e bi r ds , " s eemed t o me t r ans -

par ent l y t r ue. And nex t t o t hi s des i r e f or t he s unny

si de of t he bus h, a happy - go- l uc k y , hand- t o- mout h t emper

st r uc k me as t he pr ev ai l i ng c har ac t er i s t i c , as Si r AVal t er

saw i t when he wr ot e " Sul t an Sol omon' s Sear c h af t er

Happi nes s . " Look at t he nat i onal v ehi c l e, t he out s i de

car — f ar mor e nat i onal and popul ar t han our hans om.

Di d any r ac e ev er i nv ent a c onv ey anc e s o eas y t o mount

and di s mount f r om, or whi c h of f er s t he s ame c hanc es of

bei ng s hot of f at ev er y s t r eet c or ner or t ur n i n t he r oad 1

I f any r eader doubt s , l et hi m go ov er t o t he nex t hor s e-

show at Dubl i n, and wat c h t he c r owd br eak i ng up at t he

end of t he s how. The r oads i nt o t he c i t y ar e c er t ai nl y

unus ual l y br oad, but t he s i ght of a doz en j aunt i ng- c ar s

comi ng al ong, t wo or t hr ee abr eas t , as har d as t hei r

hor s es c an t r ot , t he dr i v er l ol l i ng c ar el es s l y , wi t h a l oos e

r ei n, on one s i de, and a c oupl e of I r i s hmen on t he ot her ,

i s a s i ght t o mak e t he Sax on " s i t up, " t hough he may be

ac c us t omed t o t he f as t es t and mos t r ec k l es s Wes t End

hans oms . Li k e one of y our r ec ent c or r es pondent s , I

coul d di s t i ngui s h nat i v es f r om v i s i t or s , as eac h of t he

l at t er had a t i ght hol d of t he bar — a pr ec aut i on whi c h

t he nat i v e s c or ned. I managed t o ex t r ac t f r om an

ent hus i as t i c admi r er — a y oung I r i s h s ubal t er n who had

r i dden on t hem al l hi s l i f e — t he c onf es s i on t hat he had

l ef t a c ar i nv ol unt ar i l y ( or , Angl i c b, had been s hot out )

t hr ee t i mes i n t he l as t ei ght een mont hs ; but t hen, as he

ex pl ai ned, he al way s f el l on hi s f eet ! I was t ouc hed

agai n and agai n by t he al mos t pat het i c c r av i ng f or

Engl i s h appr ec i at i on,

— qui t e as s t r ong, I t hi nk , as , and

cer t ai nl y muc h pl eas ant er t han, t hat of our Amer i c an

cous i ns . I was ex pl or i ng t he Ki l l ar ney Lak es , i n t he

f i r s t - r at e f our - oar ed boat of a c adet of t he Mac Gi l l i c uddy

f ami l y , who, wi t h hi s Engl i s h wi f e, ex er c i s es a v er y

del i ght f ul hos pi t al i t y al mos t under t he s hadow of " The

Reek s , " whi c h bear hi s name. I t was a per f ec t day , t he

changi ng l i ght s and t i nt s on mount ai ns and woods and

Vac at i on Rambl es 371

l ak es bei ng mor e del i c at el y l ov el y t han any I c oul d r ec al l ,

ex c ept , per haps , at t he head of t he Lak e of Genev a. We

had been t al k i ng of t he Sc ot c h l ak es , and I c oul d not

hel p s ay i ng, " Why , t hi s beat s Loc h Kat r i ne and El l en' s

I s l e out of t he f i el d. " " Ah, " s ai d our hos t , wi t h a s i gh,

" i f onl y Si r Wal t er Sc ot t had been an I r i s hman ! " and

t hen he went on t o s peak of t he negl ec t of I r el and by t he

Roy al Fami l y and Engl i s h gov er ni ng peopl e — e. g. Lor d

Beac ons f i el d had nev er s et f oot i n her , and Mr . Gl ads t one

onl y onc e, f or an hour or t wo, t o r ec ei v e t he f r eedom of

Dubl i n. But why had t he Queen made her f av our i t e

home i n Sc ot l and, and l ef t poor I r el and out i n t he c ol d 1

Why di d t he Engl i s h f l oc k t o Sc ot c h r i v er s and moor s

and gol f - l i nk s i n c r owds ev er y aut umn when onl y a

st r ay s por t s man or t our i s t f ound hi s way t o Ki l l ar ney or

Connemar a or Donegal 1 I t was al l owi ng t o t he Wi z ar d

of t he Nor t h, who had made Sc ot l and enc hant ed gr ound.

Page 235 of 259

Wi t hout i gnor i ng ot her and deeper c aus es , I t hi nk one

cannot but f eel what a di f f er enc e i t woul d hav e made i f

Si r Wal t er had been I r i s h. The Si ege of Der r y i s a mor e

her oi c and pat het i c s t or y t han any i n Sc ot c h annal s of

t he s t r uggl e f or t he St uar t s , and t he geni us whi c h has

made us i nt i mat e f r i ends of t he Bar on of Br adwar di ne

and Dugal d Dal get t y , of Dandi e Di nmont , Edi e Oc hi l t r ee,

Jeani e Deans , Cuddi e and Maus e Headr i gg, and a doz en

ot her Sc ot c h men and women, woul d s ur el y hav e f ound

as good mat er i al s f or c har ac t er - pai nt i ng among t he I r i s h

peas ant r y . But t he s pec ul at i on, t hough i nt er es t i ng, i s

t oo bi g t o deal wi t h at t he end of a paper .

" Poor Paddy - Land ! " — I I

I s uppos e ev er y one ex pec t s t o f i nd I r el and t he

l and of t he unl ook ed- f or . I di d, at any r at e, but was

by no means pr epar ed f or s ev er al of t he s ur pr i s es whi c h

gr eet ed me. For i ns t anc e, t he bes t ar r anged, and f or i t s

si z e and s c ope t he mos t i nt er es t i ng, Nat i onal Gal l er y I

hav e ev er s een. I t i s onl y f or t y y ear s ol d ( i nc or por at ed

372 Vac at i on Rambl es

i n 1854) , a dat e s i nc e whi c h one woul d hav e t hought i t

sc ar c el y pos s i bl e t o get t oget her genui ne s pec i mens of al l

t he gr eat s c hool s of ar t , f r om t he wel l " pi c k ed- ov er "

mar t s of Engl and and t he Cont i nent . But t he f eat has

been ac c ompl i s hed, mai nl y , I bel i ev e, by t he ent i r e dev o-

t i on and f i ne t as t e and j udgment of t he l at e di r ec t or , Mr .

Henr y E. Doy l e. Hi s unt i mel y deat h i n t he s pr i ng of

t hi s y ear has l ef t a bl ank , s oc i al and ar t i s t i c , whi c h i t

wi l l be har d t o f i l l ; but happi l y hi s gr eat wor k f or I r i s h

ar t was done, and al l t hat hi s s uc c es s or s wi l l hav e t o do

wi l l be t o f ol l ow hi s l ead f ai t hf ul l y . I r i s h Ar t owes

muc h t o hi s f ami l y , f or he was t he s on of H. B. , and t he

younger br ot her of t he i mmor t al " Di c k y , " whi l e, I

bel i ev e, Mr . Conan Doy l e i s hi s nephew.

But i t i s not t he gener al c ol l ec t i on of pi c t ur es , r e-

mar k abl e as t hat i s , whi c h di f f er ent i at es t he I r i s h f r om

ot her nat i onal gal l er i es k nown t o me. I t i s t he happy

ar r angement whi c h has s et apar t a f our t h of t he whol e

spac e f or a c ol l ec t i on of por t r ai t s , and " aut hent i c hi s t or i -

cal pi c t or i al r ec or ds , c ompr i s i ng not onl y t he por t r ai t s of

emi nent I r i s hmen and I r i s hwomen, but al s o of s t at es men

and ot her s who wer e pol i t i c al l y or s oc i al l y c onnec t ed

wi t h I r el and, or whos e l i v es s er v e i n any way t o i l l us t r at e

her hi s t or y , or t hr ow l i ght on her s oc i al or l i t er ar y or

ar t i s t i c r ec or ds . " I t hi nk I may s af el y v ent ur e t he

as s er t i on — f or I s pent t he gr eat er par t of t wo af t er noons

i n t hi s hi s t or i c al and por t r ai t depar t ment

— t hat t her e i s

sc ar c el y a man or woman, f r om t he t i me of El i z abet h t o

t hat of O' Connel l and Lor d Mel bour ne, of whom one

woul d be gl ad t o k now mor e, wi t h whom one does not

l eav e i t , f eel i ng f ar bet t er ac quai nt ed. And t hen t hey

ar e s o admi r abl y and of t en pat het i c al l y gr ouped, e. g.

Char l es I . , Cr omwel l , and R. Cr omwel l , on a l i ne, al l f ul l

of c har ac t er , and St r af f or d har d by , wi t h t he l ook of

" t hor ough" on hi s br ow and mout h as no ot her por t r ai t

I hav e ev er s een has gi v en. Then t her e ar e " Er i n' s

Hi gh Or monde, " Si r Wal t er Ral ei gh, by Zuc c ar o, pai nt ed

Page 236 of 259

bet ween hi s t wo i mpr i sonment s, and comi ng down l at er ,

Vacat i on Rambl es 373

Lor ds Wel l esl ey and Hast i ngs, and gr oups of gr eat

nobl es and Lor ds- Li eut enant . For f i ght i ng men, Wi l l i am

I I I . as a boy ; Wal ker , t he def ender of Deny ; t he Duke,

t he Lawr ences, Lor d Gough, and a scor e of ot her gal l ant

I r i shmen. The t er r i bl e Dean st ands out amongst t he

l i t er ar y men, and near hi m Si r R. St eel e and St er ne,

and ( l ongo i nt er val l o, except on shel ves) Tom Moor e,

Cr oker , Lever , et c. Then come t he " pat r i ot s " of al l

school s : Lor d E. Fi t zger al d, and Gr at t an, and E. Hud-

son, Secr et ar y of t he Uni t ed I r i shmen i n 1784; Wol f e

Tone, and Dani el O' Connel l ; hal f a dozen Ponsonbys of

di f f er ent r anks, and sever al pi ct ur es of Bur ke, one of

whi ch especi al l y ( sai d t o be by Angel i ca Kauf f mann) i s,

t o my mi nd, qui t e i nval uabl e. Bur ke st ands upr i ght ,

hi s si de- f ace t owar ds you, subl i me, as he l ooked, I am

sur e, when he was maki ng hi s i mmor t al speech at Br i st ol .

By hi s si de, at r i ght angl es, so t hat you get hi s f ul l f ace,

i s Char l es Fox, one hand on Bur ke' s shoul der , t he ot her

on a t abl e on whi ch he i s l eani ng. You can hear hi m

sayi ng as pl ai nl y as i f you wer e t her e one hundr ed year s

ago, " Nosv, my dear Edmund, i f you say t hat i n t he

House, you' l l upset t he coach. " Fox has evi dent l y di ned

wel l , and Bur ke i s f ast i ng f r om al l but i ndi gnat i on. The

por t r ai t s of women ar e as i nt er est i ng, such as Mi ss Far r en,

af t er war ds Lady Der by ; Mr s. Nor t on, by Wat t s, whi ch

i s wor t h a vi si t t o Dubl i n t o see, et c. But I must not

r un on, and wi l l onl y not e one l esson I car r i ed away.

Ther e ar e t wo por t r ai t s, and t hr ee engr avi ngs f r om por -

t r ai t s, by N. Hone, R. A. , an I r i shman, but one of our

or i gi nal Royal Academi ci ans. You wi l l r emember what

Pet er Pi ndar says of t hat pai nt er i n hi s Odes t o t he Royal

Academi ci ans " : —

And as f or Mr . Nat han Hone,

I n por t r ai t s he' s as much al one

As i n hi s l andscape st ands t he unr i val l ed Cl aude.

Of pi ct ur es I have seen enough,

Vi l e, t awdr y, execr abl e st af f ,

But none so bad as t hi ne, I vow t o God.

374 Vacat i on Rambl es

I have al ways t i l l now mai nt ai ned t hat Pet er , wi t h al l

hi s cyni ci sm, was t he best ar t cr i t i c, t he Ruski n, shal l we

say, of hi s t i me. Now I gi ve hi m up. N. Hone was no

doubt quar r el some and di sagr eeabl e, but he was a ver y

consi der abl e por t r ai t - pai nt er .

I had not ed Deny as one of t he pl aces t o be seen on

account of t he si ege, and accor di ngl y went t her e, t o get

anot her st ar t l i ng sensat i on. Li ke most ot her f ol k, I

suppose, I had al ways l ooked on t he st or y as i nt er est i ng

and her oi c, and had wonder ed i n a vague way how some

Page 237 of 259

30, 000 men, commanded by a di st i ngui shed Fr ench

sol di er , and a consi der abl e par t of t hem at any r at e

wel l - equi pped r egul ar t r oops, coul d have been kept at

bay f or t en mont hs by a mer e handf ul of r egul ar s,

backed by t he ' pr ent i ce boys of t he t own and nei ghbour -

hood. Rel i gi ous zeal was no doubt a st r ong f act or on

t he si de of t he t own, and Par son Wal ker , a bor n l eader

of men, " wi t h a bugl e i n hi s t hr oat , " l i ke " Bobs. " But

when one r emember s t hat no pr ovi si on had been made

f or a si ege, t hat many of t he l eadi ng men wer e f or open-

i ng t he gat es, and i ndeed t hat t he Fr ench of f i cer s and

James' s deput y wer e act ual l y wi t hi n 300 yar ds i n t hei r

boat s, t o accept t he sur r ender , when t he ' pr ent i ces r ushed

down and shut and manned t he gat es, and t hen l ooks at

t he scene on t he spot , one i s r eal l y dumbf ounded, and

wander s back i n t hought t o Ki ng Hezeki ah and Jer usal em.

Fr om t he Cat hedr al , whi ch domi nat es t he ci t y, you can

t r ace di st i nct l y t he l i ne of t he ol d wal l s, and can' har dl y

bel i eve your eyes. The space encl osed cannot be mor e

t han a quar t er of a mi l e i n l engt h, by some 300 yar ds i n

br eadt h ( I coul d not get exact measur ement s) , and i n i t ,

i ncl udi ng gar r i son and t he count r y f ol k who had f l ocked

i n, wer e mor e t han 30, 000 peopl e. I t was bombar ded

f or ei ght mont hs, dur i ng at l east t he l ast f our of whi ch

f ami ne and pest i l ence wer e r agi ng. No wonder t hat t he

par i sh r egi st er s t el l of mor e t han 9000 bur i al s i n conse-

cr at ed gr ound, whi l e " t he pr act i ce of bur i al i n t he back -

yar ds became unavoi dabl e ! " Wher e can such anot her

Vacat i on Rambl es 375

st or y be f ound i n aut hent i c hi st or y 1 Par son Wal ker ,

l et us say, f ai r l y ear ned hi s monument .

I must own t o gr i evous di sappoi nt ment as t o t he

f ar mi ng i n Ul st er . Al l t hr ough t he Sout h and Cent r e I

had seen t he hay i n t he f i el ds i n smal l cocks i n Sept ember ,

and t he spl endi d r i pe cr ops of oat s and bar l ey uncut , or ,

i f cut , l ef t i n sheaf , or bei ng car r i ed i n a l ei sur el y f ashi on,

whi ch was qui t e pr ovoki ng, whi l e t al l , yel l ow r agweed

was gr owi ng i n most of t he past ur es i n omi nous abun-

dance. That wi l l al l be al t er ed, I t hought , when I cr oss

" Boyne Wat er . " Not a bi t of i t ! Her e and t her e,

i ndeed, I saw a good r i ck- yar d and cl ean f i el ds, but

scar cel y of t ener t han about Cor k or Ki l l ar ney, and no

one seemed t o mi nd any mor e t han t he pur e sout her n

Cel t s. One man sai d, when I mour ned over t he r agweed

t hr ee f eet or f our f eet hi gh, t hat he di d not mi nd i t , as i t

showed t he l and was good ! As t o l eavi ng hay i n cock,

wel l t hat was t he cust om — t hey woul d get i t i nt o st ack

af t er har vest , any way bef or e Chr i st mas ; as t o dawdl i ng

over cut t i ng and car r yi ng, wel l , wi t h pr i ces at pr esent

r at es, what use i n hur r yi ng 1 Ther e was a comi c song

cal l ed " Cl ear t he Ki t chen, " popul ar hal f a cent ur y ago,

whi ch r an —

I saw an ol d man come r i di ng by.

Says I , " Ol d man, your hor se wi l l di e " ;

Says he, " I f he di es I ' l l t an hi s ski n,

And i f he l i ves I ' l l r i de hi m agi n. "

Page 238 of 259

I t f i t s t he I r i sh t emper , Nor t h and Sout h, pl easant enough

t o t r avel amongst , but bad, I shoul d t hi nk, t o l i ve wi t h.

" Panem et Ci r censes"

Rome, 21st Apr i l 1895.

I have been aski ng mysel f at l east a dozen t i mes a day

dur i ng t he l ast f or t ni ght , why Eome shoul d be ( t o me, at

any r at e) t he ci t y of sur pr i ses, f ar mor e t han At hens or

376 Vacat i on Rambl es

Const ant i ne, f or i nst ance, or any ot her ci t y or scene of

wor l d- wi de i nt er est i n Eur ope or Amer i ca. Jer usal em

and t he Ni l e ci t i es I have never seen ( and f ear I never

shal l now) . Sur el y, t o what I t ake t o be t he maj or i t y of

your r eader s, who have gone t hr ough, as I have, t he

or t hodox educat i onal mi l l — publ i c school and col l ege —

pr eci sel y t he cont r ar y shoul d be t r ue. We spent no smal l

par t of f r om si x t o t en year s of t he most i mpr essi onabl e

t i me of our l i ves i n st udyi ng t he st or y of t he Mi st r ess of

t he Ol d Wor l d, f r om Romul us and Remus t o t he Ant o-

ni nes. Even t he i dl est and most car el ess of us coul d

scar cel y have passed hi s " gr eat s " wi t hout knowi ng hi s

geogr aphy wel l enough t o poi nt out on t he map t he posi -

t i on of each of t he seven hi l l s, t he For um, t he Jani cul um,

t he Appi an Way, t he Ar ch of Ti t us, t he Col osseum, et c. ,

and must have f or med some ki nd of not i on i n hi s own

mi nd of what each of t hem l ooked l i ke. At any r at e, I

had no excuse f or not knowi ng my anci ent Rome bet t er

t han I knew any moder n ci t y, bot h as t o i t s geogr aphy

and t he pol i t i cs, bel i ef s, and habi t s of i t s ci t i zens ; f or I

was f or t wo year s i n t he pupi l - r oom of a t eacher ( Bi shop

Cot t on) who spar ed no pai ns, not onl y on t he t ext s of

Li vy, Hor ace, Sal l ust , and Juvenal , and t he geogr aphy,

but i n maki ng t he Rome of t he l ast year s of t he Republ i c

and t he f i r st Csesar s l i ve agai n f or us. For i nst ance, he

woul d col l ect f or us al l t he best engr avi ngs t hen t o be had

( i t was bef or e t he days of phot ogr aphs) of Rome, and

show us what r emai ned of t he ol d bui l di ngs and monu-

ment s, and wher e t he Papal ci t y had encr oached and

super seded t hem ; and agai n, woul d t ake i nf i ni t e pai ns t o

expl ai n t he changes i n t he or di nar y l i f e of t he Roman

ci t i zen, whi ch had been cr eepi ng on si nce t he end of t he

t hi r d Puni c war , when her l ast f or mi dabl e r i val went

down, and t he st r uggl e bet ween pat r i ci an and pl ebei an

had t i me and oppor t uni t y t o devel op and wor k i t sel f out ,

t i l l i t ended i n t he August an age, when t he wi l l of t he

Caesar r emai ned t he sol e ul t i mat e l aw, i n Rome, and over

t he whol e Empi r e. Of cour se t he expl anat i on of t he

Vacat i on Rambl es 377

phr ase " Panem et ci r censes, " and t he gr owt h of t he

syst em, i n t he shape of publ i c f east i ngs, shows, bat hs,

and ot her ent er t ai nment s, wi t h whi ch each successf ul

Page 239 of 259

Tr i bune or Gener al , as he came t o t he f r ont , and t he

Caesar s af t er t hem, t r i ed t o br i be and sway t he mob of

t he For um, f or med no smal l par t of t hi s i nst r uct i on.

One i t em of t he l i st wi l l best i l l ust r at e my t ext — t hat

of publ i c bat hs — whi ch came most di r ect l y home t o me,

as I was devot ed t o swi mmi ng i n t hose days, and so had

gr eat sympat hy wi t h t he poor ci t i zen of I mper i al Rome

who desi r ed t o have bat hs i n t he best f or m and wi t hout

payment .

I do not know t hat t her e i s any t r ust wor t hy evi dence

as t o t he publ i c bat hs of Rome bef or e I mper i al t i mes, but

we can est i mat e pr et t y accur at el y how t he case st ood f or

t he poor Roman i n t he f i r st and second cent ur i es A. D.

The best pr eser ved of t hese ar e t he Bat hs of Car acal l a,

i n whi ch si xt een hundr ed bat her s coul d be accommodat ed

at once. The encl osed ar ea was 360 yar ds squar e, or

consi der abl y l ar ger t han Li ncol n' s I nn Fi el ds ; but t hi s

i ncl uded a cour se f or f oot - r aces, i n whi ch, I suppose, t he

younger bat her s cont ended when f r esh f r om t he del i ght s

of hot and col d bat hs, whi l e t hei r el der s l ooked on f r om

t he por t i coes adj oi ni ng. The bat hi ng est abl i shment pr oper ,

however , was 240 yar ds i n l engt h, by 124 yar ds i n wi dt h,

i n whi ch t he di vi si ons of t he " t epi dar i a, " " cal i dar i a, "

and " f r i gi dar i a, " ar e st i l l conf i dent l y poi nt ed out i n

Baedeker , and at t est ed by gui des i f you l i ke t o hi r e t hem.

But t he par t whi ch i nt er est ed me most , apar t f r om t he

huge masses of wal l st i l l st andi ng, was t he depr essi on i n

t he f l oor , whi ch i s sai d t o have been t he swi mmi ng- bat h,

and whi ch i s at l east t wi ce as l ar ge as t hose of t he Hol bor n

and Lambet h bat hs, t he t wo l ar gest i n London i n my t i me,

put t oget her .

The r emai ns of t he wal l s ar e j ust ast oundi ng, ei ght f eet

and t en f eet t hi ck, and ( I shoul d say) i n sever al pl aces

f i f t y f eet hi gh ; t he t hi n Roman br i cks, and t he mor t ar i n

whi ch t hey ar e bui l t , as har d as t hey wer e i n t he second

37% Vacat i on Rambl es

cent ur y. I wi sh I coul d f eel any conf i dence t hat any of

our London br i ckwor k woul d show as wel l even a cent ur y

hence. When t he f l oor s wer e al l cover ed wi t h mosai c

pavement , of whi ch smal l pi eces now car ef ul l y pr eser ved

st i l l r emai n, and t he br i ckwor k of t he wal l s was f aced

wi t h mar bl e, and t he st at ues whi ch have been f ound her e

and r emoved t o museums, st i l l st ood r ound t he cent r al

f ount ai n and i n t he cour t s, my i magi nat i on qui t e f ai l s t o

pi ct ur e what t he bat hs must have l ooked l i ke. But t he

Bat hs of Car acal l a, t hough best pr eser ved, ar e not . by any

means t he l ar gest . Those of Di ocl et i an, on t he Qui r i nal

and par t l y f aci ng t he r ai l way st at i on, wer e al most t wi ce

as bi g, f or t he ci r cumf er ence of t he bat h bui l di ngs was

about 2000 yar ds, or hal f as l ar ge agai n as t he Bat hs

of Car acal l a, whi l e t hey woul d accommodat e ( i t i s sai d)

t hr ee t housand bat her s at once. I t i s even mor e i m-

possi bl e, however , t o r econst r uct t hese bat hs i n one' s f ancy

t han t hose of Car acal l a, f or t he chur ch of St . Ber nar do

occupi es one domed cor ner of t he ar ea, and a pr i son

anot her cor ner ; whi l e a convent , wi t h t he Chur ch of St .

Mar i a degl i Angel i at t ached — bui l t by Mi chael Angel o by

or der of Pi us I V. — st ands over what was t he " t epi -

Page 240 of 259

dar i um. " Ther e i s st i l l , however , space enough l ef t f or

t he l ar ge squar e, as bi g as Bedf or d Squar e, and sur r ounded

by cl oi st er s sai d t o be al so t he wor k of Mi chael Angel o,

i n whi ch st and a number of t he most i nt er est i ng st at ues

and bust s, and ar chi t ect ur al f r agment s l at el y exhumed.

I have by no means exhaust ed t he oppor t uni t i es en-

j oyed by t he Roman ci t i zen under t he Ant oni nes f or

get t i ng a sat i sf act or y, not t o say a l uxur i ous, wash i n t he

Roman summer , but must t ur n asi de f or a mi nut e t o t el l

you of an i nt er est i ng l i t t l e scene whi ch I saw out si de on

l eavi ng t he Bat hs of Di ocl et i an. Al ong t he bot t om of t he

ol d r ui ned wal l st i l l st andi ng, and l ooki ng as f i r m as t hat

of Car acal l a, f or about f i f t y yar ds, ear t h and r ubbi sh has

been al l owed t o accumul at e t o t he hei ght of t wel ve or

f our t een f eet . Thi s di r t - heap cover s some t went y f eet of

t he open space bet ween t he ol d wal l and t he f oot way,

Vacat i on Rambl es 379

and, t he f ace of i t havi ng been t r ampl ed har d, f or ms a

st eep sl ope, of whi ch t he Roman ur chi n of t o- day seems

t o have t aken possessi on, and t her eon t hor oughl y t o

enj oy hi msel f af t er hi s own f ashi on. Thi s i s a ver y

di f f er ent way f r om t hat of our st r eet - boys, i f I may j udge

by what I saw i n passi ng. A gr oup of some dozen l i t t l e

r agged ur chi ns — f our wi t h bar e f eet — wer e at hi gh j i nks

as I came up ; and t hi s was t hei r past i me. The bi ggest

of t hem, a st ur dy boy of ( per haps) el even or t wel ve, st ood

at t he bot t om of t he st eep sl ope, f aci ng t he wal l , wi t h hi s

f eet f i r ml y set , and hi s ar ms wi de open. The r est , who

wer e at t he t op of t he sl ope, agai nst t he wal l , r an down one

af t er anot her and t hr ew t hemsel ves i nt o hi s ar ms, cl aspi ng

hi m r ound t he neck, and get t i ng a good hug bef or e he

dr opped t hem. The obj ect seemed t o be ( so f ar as I

coul d see) t o t hr ow hi m over backwar ds, but he st ood

hi s gr ound f i r ml y, onl y st agger i ng a l i t t l e once or t wi ce

dur i ng t he t wo r ounds whi ch I was abl e t o wat ch. I was

obl i ged t hen t o l eave, wonder i ng, and debat i ng i n my

mi nd what woul d be t he r esul t of such a game i f t r i ed by

our st r eet boys i n a London subur b.

To go back t o t he Bat hs, t her e ar e r emai ns of t hr ee mor e

whi ch must have been no unwor t hy r i val s of Car acal l a' s

and Di ocl et i an' s — vi z. t hose of Const ant i ne, Agr i ppa, and

Ti t us. The f i r st wer e al so on t he Qui r i nal , and ar e sai d

t o have occupi ed t he gr eat er par t of t he pr esent Pi azza

del Qui r i nal e, i ncl udi ng t he si t e of t he Royal Pal ace.

But as al l t hat i s l ef t of t hem i s a f r agment of t he

ol d boundar y- wal l her e and t her e, one can f or m no not i on

of t hei r si ze or shape. One may, however , j udge of t hei r

char act er by magni f i cent col ossal mar bl e st at ues of t he

" Hor se- t amer s, " whi ch ar e known t o have st ood one on

each si de of t he pr i nci pal ent r ance, and ar e bel i eved t o

r emai n al most i n t he pl ace wher e t hey st and t o- day. The

Bat hs of Agr i ppa l ay behi nd t he Pant heon, but a f l ut ed

col umn and r ui ned dome ar e al l t hat r emai n of t hem i n

t he nei ghbour i ng st r eet s, " Pumbel l a " and " Cumbel l a. "

Last l y, t her e wer e t he Bat hs of Ti t us, begun by hi m i n

Page 241 of 259

380 Vacat i on Rambl es

A. D. 80, on t he Esqui l i ne, whi ch i ncl uded t he si t es of

Maecenas' Vi l l a and t he Gol den Pal ace of Ner o, whi ch

( I suppose) he must have demol i shed t o make r oom f or

t hem ; but t he t r adi t i on as t o t hese r ui ns seems even mor e

vague t han t hat of any of t he ot her bat hs. I t hi nk you

must al l ow t hat so f ar I have pr oved my case, t hat Rome

i s t he ci t y of sur pr i ses.

Ever si nce my " Roman bat hs' r ound, " t he cont r ast of

I mper i al Rome and our London has been poppi ng up.

Why have not we, at any r at e, one or t wo publ i c bat hs on

somet hi ng l i ke t he ol d Roman scal e 1 Di d t hey r eal l y

l et any Roman ci t i zen bat he f r ee of char ge 1 Coul d we

possi bl y do t hat ? and how 1 Wel l , af t er al l , i t onl y want s

a Caesar t o wor k t he " panem et ci r censes " t r i ck ast ut el y.

And have not we got at l ast our equi val ent f or Ner o or

Ti t us i n our Count y Counci l 1 ? Tr ue, our many - headed

Caesar has not t he t r i but e of a conquer ed wor l d t o dr aw

on, or an unl i mi t ed suppl y of pr i soner s of war , sl aves, and

poor Chr i st i ans t o set t o t he wor k. But has not he t he

r at es of London at hi s mer cy- — not a bad equi val ent —

and t he Col l ect i vi st Tr ade- Uni oni st , who may possi bl y be

r el i ed on t o do as f ai r a day' s wor k at t he scal e- wages as

t he unpai d sl ave or Chr i st i an di d f or Ti t us ? Wel l , I do

not know t hat I shoul d pr ot est vi gor ousl y — onl y I am no

l onger a London r at epayer .

Rome — East er Day

We get our London paper s her e as r egul ar l y as you

do, onl y f or t y- ei ght hour s l at er , and I see t hat r eader s at

home have been abl e t o f ol l ow t he cour se of t he ser vi ces

i n St . Pet er ' s and t he Roman Chur ches dur i ng Passi on

Week about as wel l as we who ar e on t he spot , and so t o

appr eci at e t he t hor oughness whi ch t he pr i est hood, f r om

car di nal s downwar ds, f or I am sor r y t o say t he Pope i s st i l l

unabl e t o t ake hi s usual par t , t hr ow i nt o t he at t empt t o

r epr oduce t he supr eme dr ama of our r ace, so f ar as t hi s can

Vacat i on Rambl es \ %\

o {

be done, day by day, al most hour by hour . I have not ,

however , not i ced any ment i on of t he " Tenebr se " at St .

John Lat er an, a ser vi ce of r at her mor e t han an hour ,

f r om 4. 30 t o 5. 30, on t he af t er noon of Good Fr i day,

when t he l ast wor ds have f al l en f r om t he cr oss, and

Joseph of Ar i mat hsea, wi t h t he f ai t hf ul women, has bor ne

away t he scar r ed and bl eedi ng body of t he Lor d of Li f e

t o hi s own gr ave, i n whi ch no man has yet l ai n —

Al l t he t oi l , t he sor r ow done,

Al l t he bat t l e f ought and won,

Page 242 of 259

as Ar t hur St anl ey says, i n one of t he nobl est hymns i n

t he Engl i sh l anguage. We had t he good f or t une t he day

bef or e t o meet one of t he Monsi gnor i , an ol d f r i end,

f or mer l y a har d - wor ki ng and successf ul London i n-

cumbent , who suggest ed t hat we shoul d go, and t o whom

I shal l al ways f eel gr at ef ul f or t he advi ce. We accor di ngl y

wer e at t he door of t hat spl endi d, but t o my mi nd t oo

sumpt uousl y decor at ed chur ch, punct ual l y at 4. 30. The

pr ocessi on had al r eady r eached t he chancel , and wer e

t aki ng t hei r al l ot t ed pl aces. Most of your r eader s wi l l

pr obabl y be f ami l i ar wi t h t he chur ch, but f or t hose who

ar e not , I may say t hat t he chancel i s wi der , I t hi nk,

t han t hat i n any of our cat hedr al s, and t hat t he whol e

space f r om t he hi gh al t ar t o t he sol i d mar bl e r ai l s —

about t hr ee and a hal f f eet hi gh, whi ch di vi de t he

chancel f r om t he r est of t he chur ch — i s open, wi t h t he sol e

except i on of t he r ow of st al l s whi ch r un al ong each si de-

wal l , and whi ch ar e r eser ved f or , and wer e now f i l l ed by,

pr i est s. For t hi s par t i cul ar ser vi ce, however ( and f or t hi s

onl y, as I was t ol d) , a r ow of chai r s was pl aced j ust

wi t hi n t he chancel - r ai l s, f or t he Monsi gnor i and ot her

pr i est s of t he Pope' s househol d, who wer e al r eady seat ed,

al l i n deep bl ack, wi t h t hei r f aces t o t he al t ar and t hei r

backs t o t he congr egat i on. They r emai ned seat ed dur i ng

t he whol e ser vi ce ( t hough sever al of t he pr i est s f r om t he

si de- st ; dl s st epped down at i nt er val s and t ook par t i n

t he ser vi ce) , t hus, i t seemed t o me, emphasi si ng t he

382 Vacat i on Rambl es

di vi si on bet ween pr i est s and peopl e, and i mpr essi ng on

us beyond chancel - r ai l s, t he f act t hat we wer e t her e

r at her as si ght seer s, spect at or s of a sol emn cer emony,

t han j oi nt - shar er s i n an act of wor shi p.

When we ar r i ved t he ser vi ce had scar cel y commenced,

t hough t he or gan was peal i ng sol emnl y t hr ough t he vast

chur ch ; but t he whol e of t he space i n f r ont of t he

chancel - r ai l s was al r eady f i l l ed by a dense cr owd. Many

of t hose who wer e i n f r ont , cl ose t o t he chancel - r ai l s, knel t ,

l eani ng on t he r ai l s, but by no means al l , and t he r est

st ood — a not ewor t hy assembl y. For t her e wer e at l east as

many men as women, and of al l cl asses. I t i s not easy

nowadays t o r ecogni se r ank by dr ess or bear i ng ; but

t her e wer e cer t ai nl y a consi der abl e mi nor i t y of wel l -

dr essed, wel l - t o- do peopl e, mi xed wi t h sol di er s i n hal f a

dozen di f f er ent uni f or ms ( as I was gl ad t o see) , ar t i sans,

peasant s, men and women i n f or ce, t he l at t er gener al l y

l eadi ng a chi l d or t wo by t he hand, wi t h a spr i nkl i ng of

young men, pr epar i ng, I suppose by t hei r dr ess, f or

pr i est s' or der s, who f or t he most par t had books i n whi ch

t hey f ol l owed t he ser vi ce at t ent i vel y, — no easy t ask

under t he sur r oundi ng condi t i ons. For t hough t he f r ont

r anks, t wo or t hr ee deep next t he chancel - r ai l s, wer e f or

t he most par t st at i onar y, t he gr eat mass behi nd was

const ant l y movi ng about and t al ki ng i n l ow t ones, — not

i r r ever ent l y, but r at her as t hey woul d be i n Engl and at any

l ar ge gat her i ng wher e t hey coul d t ake no par t t hemsel ves

i n t he per f or mance, but f el t t hat i t was t he r i ght t hi ng t o

be t her e, and t hat t hey must not i nt er f er e wi t h t he

mi nor i t y, who seemed t o under st and and appr eci at e what

Page 243 of 259

was goi ng on. I was not one of t hese l at t er , as I do not

under st and musi c, and had no book of t he wor ds ; t hough

I was qui t e sensi bl e t hat t he pat hos, chequer ed wi t h

occasi onal bur st s of t r i umph, and r ender ed by exqui si t e

t enor s and boys' voi ces, was equal t o any musi c I had

ever hear d. Mor eover , t he si ght of t he spl endi dl y

dr essed pr i est s, movi ng f r equent l y about bef or e t he al t ar ,

wi t hout any r eason so f ar as I coul d see, and t he swi ngi ng

Vacat i on Rambl es ^ 8^

j ^ , )

of censer s, t he cl ouds of i ncense, and gest ur es t o whi ch I

coul d at t ach no meani ng, i ncl i ned me t o get out of t he

cr owd. Wi t h t hi s vi ew I l ooked about f or my compani on,

who, I f ound, had managed t o r each t he al t ar - r ai l s. So

i n or der t hat we mi ght be sur e t o meet at t he end of t he

ser vi ce, I got qui et l y back t o t he door by whi ch we had

ent er ed, wher e I coul d hear t he musi c and voi ces per f ect l y,

t hough out of si ght of t he chancel . Her e I r esol ved t o

wai t , and at once became much i nt er est ed i n t he peopl e who

wer e const ant l y passi ng i n or l eavi ng t he chur ch. Soon

1 r emar ked t hat al most al l of t he f or mer , especi al l y t he

peasant men and women wi t h chi l dr en, t ur ned t o t he

r i ght and di sappear ed f or a mi nut e or t wo bef or e goi ng

on t o j oi n t he cr owd i n f r ont of t he chancel . So I

f ol l owed, and can scar cel y say how much I was i mpr essed by

what I saw. I n a smal l si de- chapel , near t he ent r ance,

whi ch was t hei r dest i nat i on, di ml y l i ght ed, a cr uci f i x wi t h

a l i f e- si zed f i gur e of our Lor d upon i t was l yi ng on a

st one couch r ai sed some t wo f eet f r om t he f l oor . Ther e

was no pr i est i n char ge, onl y t wo br i ght l i t t l e chor i st er s

( I suppose) i n t hei r whi t e gowns ; and per f ect si l ence

r ei gned i n t he chapel by t he ent r ance of whi ch I st ood

and saw sever al men and women kneel i ng. They got up

one by one, and appr oachi ng t he f i gur e dr opped agai n on

t hei r knees, and, st oopi ng, ki ssed, some t he nai l - pr i nt s i n

t he hands or f eet , some t he spear - wound i n t he si de, but

none t he f ace. The most t ouchi ng si ght was t he f at her s

or mot her s when t hey r ose f r om t hei r knees l i f t i ng t he

chi l dr en and t eachi ng t hem t o ki ss t he wounds. I st ood

t her e f or at l east t went y mi nut es, unt i l t he end of t he

ser vi ce i n f act , and must have seen at l east a hundr ed

men, women, and chi l dr en ent er . Of t hese, t hr ee onl y

f ai l ed t o kneel and ki ss t he cr oss, t he f i r st , a wel l - dr essed,

mi ddl e- aged woman, l eadi ng a r est l ess smal l l ap- dog,

whi ch pul l ed and whi ned whenever hi s mi st r ess was not

at t endi ng t o hi m ; t he ot her s, t wo young gi r l s — but qui t e

ol d enough t o have known bet t er — who mar ched i n

amongst t he kneel i ng f i gur es, open gui de- book i n hand,

384 Vacat i on Rambl es

not i ced somet hi ng i n t he chapel t o whi ch i t r ef er r ed, and

t hen mar ched ont . They passed cl ose enough f or me t o

Page 244 of 259

cat ch a wor d or t wo of t hei r t al k, whi ch I am gl ad t o say

was not Engl i sh.

As I st ood t her e and wat ched and l i st ened, t he di st ant

voi ces seemed t o be chant i ng t hat gr and ol d monk' s - Lat i n

hymn, t he " Di es I r se, " and I f anci ed ( I am af r ai d i t was

pur e f ancy) I coul d hear : —

Quser ens me sedi st i l assus,

Redemi st i cr ucem passus,

Tant us l abor non si t cassus !

Mor e t han once I was haunt ed by t he wi sh t o ent er and

kneel and ki ss t he cr oss, by t he si de of some poor I t al i an

woman and her chi l d. I wi sh now t hat I had, but hope

i t was a genui ne Pr ot est ant i nst i nct whi ch hi nder ed me.

At any r at e I shal l never have anot her chance. Thi s

cr uci f i x i s onl y br ought out once a year — on Good Fr i day

— and I shal l never agai n be i n St . John' s Lat er an on

t hat day f or t he " Tenebr se " ser vi ce.

JOHN TO JONATHAN

An Addr ess del i ver ed i n t he Musi c Hal l , Bost on, on t he 11t h of

Oct ober 1870

Thi s Addr ess i s pr i nt ed pr eci sel y as i t was spoken, at t he

r equest of f r i ends who had r ead ext r act s i n our newspaper s.

I am qui t e awar e how super f i ci al i t must seem t o Engl i sh

r eader s, and woul d onl y r emi nd t hem t hat I had no

Par l i ament ar y debat es, or ot her document s, t o whi ch t o

r ef er . I am t hankf ul mysel f t o f i nd t hat , whi l e t her e ar e

st ar t l i ng gaps i n i t , t her e ar e no gr oss bl under s as t o f act s

or dat es. The ki ndl i ness wi t h whi ch i t was l i st ened t o by

t he audi ence, and di scussed i n t he Amer i can pr ess, al l ows

me t o hope t hat t he t i me has come when any ef f or t t o put

an end t o t he unhappy di f f er ences bet ween t he t wo

count r i es wi l l be l ooked upon f avour abl y i n t he Uni t ed

St at es. The t r ue men and women on bot h si des of t he

At l ant i c f eel , wi t h Mr . For st er , t hat a war bet ween

Amer i ca and Engl and woul d be a ci vi l war , and bel i eve

wi t h hi m t hat we have seen t he l ast of ci vi l war bet ween

Engl i sh- speaki ng men. Bot h nat i ons ar e, I hope and

bel i eve, f or a hear t y r econci l i at i on, and i t onl y r emai ns

f or t he Gover nment s t o do t hei r par t .

Thomas Hughes.

I t i s wi t h a heavy sense of r esponsi bi l i t y, my f r i ends,

and no l i t t l e anxi et y, t hat I am her e t o- ni ght t o addr ess

you on t hi s subj ect . I have been i n t hi s count r y now

some t wo mont hs, and f r om t he day I cr ossed your

2 C

386 Vacat i on Rambl es

f r ont i er I have r ecei ved, f r om one end of t he l and t o t he

ot her , f r om men and women whom I had never seen i n

Page 245 of 259

my l i f e, and on whom I had no shadow of a cl ai m t hat I

coul d di scover , not hi ng but t he most gener ous, gr acef ul ,

and unobt r usi ve hospi t al i t y. I am not r ef er r i ng t o t hi s

ci t y and i t s nei ghbour hood, i n whi ch al l Engl i shmen ar e

supposed t o f eel ver y l i ke home, and i n whi ch most of us

have some ol d and dear f r i end or t wo. I speak of your

St at es f r om New Yor k t o I owa and Mi ssour i , f r om t he

Canadi an bor der t o Washi ngt on. Ever ywher e I have been

car r i ed about t o pl aces of i nt er est i n t he nei ghbour hood,

l odged, boar ded, and car ed f or as i f I had been a dear

r el at i ve r et ur ni ng f r om l ong absence. However de-

mor al i sed an Engl i shman may become i n hi s own count r y,

t her e i s al ways one pl ank i n hi s soci al mor al s whi ch he

cl i ngs t o wi t h t he ut most t enaci t y, and t hat i s payi ng hi s

own post age st amps. My hol d even on t hi s l ast st r aw i s

sadl y r el axed. I am obl i ged t o keep vi gi l ant wat ch on

my l et t er s t o hi nder t hei r bei ng st amped and post ed f or

me by i nvi si bl e hands. I never bef or e have so f ul l y

r eal i sed t he t r ut h of t hose r emar ks of your l ear ned and

pi ous f el l ow- ci t i zen, Rev. Homer Wi l bur , whose l ucubr a-

t i ons have been a sour ce of much del i ght t o me f or many

year s, when he says somewher e, " I t hi nk I coul d go near

t o be a per f ect Chr i st i an i f I wer e al ways a vi si t or at t he

house of some hospi t abl e f r i end. I can show a gr eat deal

of sel f - deni al wher e t he best of ever yt hi ng i s ur ged upon

me wi t h f r i endl y i mpor t uni t y. I t i s not so ver y har d t o

t ur n t he ot her cheek f or a ki ss. " I shoul d be si mpl y a

br ut e i f I wer e not equal l y t ouched and abashed by t he

ki ndness I have r ecei ved whi l e amongst you. I can never

hope t o r epay i t , but t he memor y of i t wi l l al ways be

amongst my most pr eci ous possessi ons, and I can, at l east ,

publ i cl y acknowl edge i t , as I do her e t hi s eveni ng.

But , my f r i ends, I must t ur n t o t he ot her si de of t he

pi ct ur e. Ther e i s not hi ng — at any r at e, no ki nd of

pl easur e, I suppose — whi ch i s unmi xed. Fr om t he

deepest and pur est f ount ai ns some bi t t er t hi ng i s sur e

Vacat i on Rambl es t >^ 7

t o r i se, and I have not been abl e, even i n t he New Wor l d,

t o escape t he common l ot of manki nd i n t he Ol d. Ever y -

wher e I have f ound, when I have sounded t he r eason f or

al l t hi s ki ndness, t hat i t was of f er ed t o me per sonal l y,

because, t o use t he wor ds of some whom I hope I may now

l ook on as dear f r i ends, " We f eel t hat you ar e one of us. "

The moment t he name of my count r y was ment i oned a

shade came over t he ki ndest f aces. I cannot conceal f r om

mysel f t hat t he f eel i ng t owar ds Engl and i n t hi s count r y i s

one whi ch must be deepl y pai nf ul t o ever y Engl i shman.

I t was f or t hi s r eason t hat I chose t he subj ect of t hi s

l ect ur e. I cannot bear t o r emai n amongst you under any

f al se pr et ences, or t o l eave you wi t h any f al se i mpr essi ons.

I am not " one of you, " i n t he sense of pr ef er r i ng your

i nst i t ut i ons t o t hose of my own count r y. I am bef or e al l

t hi ngs an Engl i shman — a John Bul l , i f you wi l l — l ovi ng

ol d Engl and and f eel i ng pr oud of her . I am j eal ous of her

f ai r f ame, and pai ned mor e t han I can say t o f i nd what I

honest l y bel i eve t o be a ver y ser i ous mi sunder st andi ng her e,

as t o t he event s whi ch mor e t han anyt hi ng el se have caused

t hi s al i enat i on. You, who have pr oved your r eadi ness as

Page 246 of 259

a peopl e t o pour out ease, weal t h, l i f e i t sel f , as wat er , t hat

no shame or har m shoul d come t o your count r y' s f l ag or

name, shoul d be t he l ast t o wi sh t he ci t i zen of any ot her

count r y t o be f al se t o hi s own. My r espect and l ove f or

your nat i on and your i nst i t ut i ons shoul d be wor t h not hi ng

t o you, i f I wer e not t r ue t o t hose of my own count r y, and

di d not l ove t hem bet t er . For t hi s r eason, t hen, and i n

t he hope of pr ovi ng t o you t hat you have mi sj udged t he

Engl and of t o- day — t hat she i s no l onger , at any r at e, i f

she ever was, t he haught y, i mper i ous power her enemi es

have l oved t o pai nt her , i nt er f er i ng i n ever y quar r el , sub-

si di si ng and hect or i ng over f r i ends, and hol di ng down f oes

wi t h a br ut al and heavy hand, car el ess of al l l aw except

t hat of her own maki ng, and bent above al l t hi ngs on

heapi ng up weal t h — 1 have consent ed t o appear her e t o-

ni ght . I had hoped t o be al l owed t o be amongst you

si mpl y as a l i st ener and a l ear ner . Si nce my dest i ny and

388 Vacat i on Rambl es

your ki ndness have or der ed i t ot her wi se, I can onl y speak

t o you of t hat whi ch i s upper most i n my t hought s, of whi ch

my hear t i s f ul l . I f I say t hi ngs whi ch ar e har d f or you

t o hear , I am sur e you wi l l par don me as you woul d a

spoi l t chi l d. You ar e r esponsi bl e f or havi ng t aught me t o

open my hear t and t o speak my mi nd t o you, and wi l l t ake

i t i n good par t i f you do not f i nd t hat hear t and mi nd j ust

what you had assumed t hem t o be.

I pr opose t hen, t o- ni ght , t o st at e t he case of my count r y

so f ar as r egar ds her conduct whi l e your gr eat r ebel l i on

was r agi ng. I n a f i ght f or l i f e, and f or pr i nci pl es dear er

t han l i f e, no men can be f ai r t o t hose who ar e out si de.

The t i me comes when t hey can wei gh bot h si des of t he case

i mpar t i al l y. I t r ust t hat t hat t i me has now ar r i ved, and

t hat I can saf el y appeal t o t he cal m j udgment of a gr eat

peopl e.

I t i s absol ut el y necessar y, i n or der t o appr eci at e what

t ook pl ace i n Engl and dur i ng your gr eat st r uggl e, t o bear

i n mi nd, i n t he f i r st pl ace, t hat i t agi t at ed our soci al and

pol i t i cal l i f e al most as deepl y as i t di d your s. I am

scar cel y ol d enough t o r emember t he f i er ce col l i si ons of

par t y dur i ng t he f i r st Eef or m agi t at i on, but I have t aken

a deep i nt er est , and dur i ng t he l ast t went y year s an act i ve

par t , i n ever y gr eat st r uggl e si nce t hat t i me ; and I say

wi t hout hesi t at i on, t hat not even i n t he cr i si s of t he Fr ee-

t r ade movement wer e Engl i sh peopl e mor e deepl y st i r r ed

t han by t hat gr appl e bet ween f r eedom and l aw on t he one

hand, and sl aver y and pr i vi l ege on t he ot her , whi ch was

so st er nl y bat t l ed t hr ough, and br ought t o so gl or i ous and

t r i umphant a deci si on, i n your gr eat r ebel l i on. Ther e can

be, I r epeat , no gr eat er mi st ake t han t o suppose t hat t her e

was anyt hi ng l i ke i ndi f f er ence on our si de of t he wat er ,

and no one can under st and t he quest i on who makes i t .

Ther e was pl ent y of i gnor ance, pl ent y of f i er ce par t i san-

shi p, pl ent y of bewi l der ed hesi t at i on and vaci l l at i on

amongst gr eat masses of honest , wel l - meani ng peopl e, who

coul d f i nd no st eady gr ound on t he shi f t i ng sand of st at e-

ment and count er - st at ement wi t h whi ch t hey wer e del uged

Page 247 of 259

Vacat i on Rambl es 389

by t hose who di d know t hei r own mi nds, and f el t by i nst i nct

f r om t he f i r st t hat her e was a bat t l e f or l i f e or deat h ; but

t her e was, I r epeat agai n, no i ndi f f er ence. Our pol i t i cal

st r uggl es do not , as a r ul e, af f ect our soci al l i f e, but dur i ng

your war t he ant agoni sm bet ween your f r i ends and t he

f r i ends of t he r ebel St at es of t en gr ew i nt o per sonal host i l i t y.

I know ol d f r i endshi ps whi ch wer e sor el y t r i ed by i t , t o

put i t no hi gher . I hear d, over and over agai n, men r ef use

t o meet t hose who wer e conspi cuous on t he ot her si de. Any

of you who had t i me t o gl ance at our paper s wi l l not need

t o be t ol d how f i er cel y t he bat t l e was f ought i n our pr ess.

I t i s a mi st ake, al so, t o suppose t hat any sect i on of our

peopl e wer e on one si de or t he ot her . Let me say a f ew

wor ds i n expl anat i on of t hi s par t of t he subj ect . And f i r st ,

of our ar i st ocr acy. I do not mean f or a moment t o deny

t hat a gr eat maj or i t y of t hem t ook si des wi t h t he Con-

f eder at es, and desi r ed t o see t hem successf ul , and t he gr eat

Republ i c br oken up i nt o t wo j eal ous and host i l e nat i ons.

What el se coul d you expect 1 Coul d you f ai r l y l ook f or

sympat hy i n t hat quar t er 1 Your whol e hi st or y has been

a det er mi ned pr ot est agai nst pr i vi l ege, and i n f avour of

equal r i ght s f or al l men ; and you have never been car ef ul ,

i n speech or conduct , t o conci l i at e your adver sar i es. For

year s your paper s and t he speeches of your publ i c men had

r ung wi t h denunci at i ons ( many of t hem ver y unf ai r ) of t hem

and t hei r cast e. They ar e not much i n t he habi t of al l ow-

i ng t hei r sent i ment s t o f i nd publ i c expr essi on, but t hey

know what i s goi ng on i n t he wor l d, and have l ong

memor i es. I t woul d be wel l i f many of us Li ber al s at

home, as wel l as you on t hi s si de, woul d r emember t hat i n

t hi s mat t er t hey cannot hel p t hemsel ves. A man i n

Engl and may be bor n a Howar d, or a Cavendi sh, or a

Ceci l , wi t hout any f aul t of hi s own, and i s apt t o " r ear

up, " as you say, when t hi s acci dent i s spoken of as t hough

i t wer e an act of vol unt ar y mal i gni t y on hi s par t , and t o

r esent t he doct r i ne t hat hi s cl ass i s a nui sance t hat shoul d

be summar i l y abat ed. So, as a r ul e, t hey si ded wi t h t he

r ebel l i on; but t hat r ul e has not abl e except i ons.

^go Vacat i on Rambl es

d

Ther e wer e no war mer or wi ser f r i ends of t he Uni on

t han t he Duke of Ar gyl l , Lor d Car l i sl e, and ot her s ; and i t

shoul d be r emember ed t hat al t hough t he cl ass made no

secr et of t hei r l eani ngs, and many of t hem, I bel i eve, sub-

scr i bed l ar gel y t o t he Conf eder at e l oan, no mot i on host i l e t o

t he Uni on was ever even di scussed i n t he House of Lor ds.

They have l ost t hei r money and seen t he def eat of t he

cause whi ch t hey f avour ed — a def eat so t hor ough, I t r ust ,

t hat t hat cause wi l l never agai n be abl e t o r ai se i t s head

on t hi s cont i nent . I bel i eve t hey have l ear nt much f r om

Page 248 of 259

t he l esson, and t hat par t l y f r om t he t eachi ng of your war ,

par t l y f r om ot her causes t o whi ch I have no t i me t o r ef er ,

t hey ar e f ar mor e i n sympat hy at t hi s t i me wi t h t he nat i on

t han t hey have ever yet been.

Of cour se, t hose who hang r ound and depend upon t he

ar i st ocr acy went wi t h t hem — f ar t oo l ar ge a cl ass, I am

sor r y t o say, i n our count r y, and one whose voi ce i s t oo

apt t o be hear d i n cl ubs and soci et y. But Pal l Mal l and

Mayf ai r , and t he j our nal s and per i odi cal s whi ch echo t he

voi ces of Pal l Mal l , do not mean much i n Engl and, t hough

t hey ar e apt t o t al k as t hough t hey di d, and ar e somet i mes

t aken at t hei r wor d.

The gr eat mer cant i l e wor l d comes next i n or der , and

her e, t oo, t her e was a deci ded pr eponder ance agai nst you.

The nat ur al hat r ed of di st ur bances, whi ch domi nat es t hose

whose mai n obj ect i n l i f e i s maki ng money, pr obabl y

swayed t he bet t er men amongst t hem, who f or got al t o-

get her t hat f or t hat di st ur bance you wer e not r esponsi bl e.

The wor se wer e car r i ed away by t he hopes of gai n, t o be

made out of t he sor e need of t he St at es i n r ebel l i on, and

i n def i ance of t he l aws of t hei r own count r y. But amongst

t he most emi nent , as wel l as i n t he r ank and f i l e of t hi s

cl ass, you had many war m f r i ends, such as T. Bar i ng and

Ki r kman Hodgson ; and t he Uni on and Emanci pat i on

Soci et i es, of whi ch I shal l speak pr esent l y, f ound a number

of t hei r st aunch suppor t er s i n t hei r r anks. The manu-

f act ur er s of Engl and wer e f ar mor e gener ous i n t hei r

sympat hi es, as my f r i end Mr . Mundel l a, who i s pr esent

Vacat i on Rambl es 391

her e t o- ni ght and was hi msel f a st aunch f r i end, can wi t ness.

Cobden, Br i ght , and For st er wer e t hei r r epr esent at i ves,

as wel l as t he r epr esent at i ves of t he gr eat bul k of our

nat i on. I have no need t o speak of t hem, f or t hei r names

ar e honour ed her e as t hey ar e at home.

Now, bef or e I speak of your f r i ends, l et me f i r st r emi nd

you t hat i t i s pr eci sel y wi t h t hat por t i on of t he Engl i sh

nat i on of whi ch I have been speaki ng t hat your peopl e

come i n cont act when t hey ar e i n our count r y. An

Amer i can gener al l y has i nt r oduct i ons whi ch br i ng hi m i nt o

r el at i ons mor e or l ess i nt i mat e wi t h some sect i ons of t hat

soci et y t o whi ch our ar i st ocr acy gi ves i t s t one ; or he i s

amongst us f or busi ness pur poses, and comes chi ef l y acr oss

our mer cant i l e cl asses. I cannot but bel i eve t hat t hi s f act

goes f ar t o expl ai n t he ( t o me) ext r aor di nar y pr eval ence

of t he bel i ef her e, t hat t he Engl i sh nat i on was on t he si de

of t he r ebel l i on. That bel i ef has, I hope and bel i eve,

changed consi der abl y si nce t he waves of your mi ght y st or m

have begun t o cal m down, and I am not wi t hout hopes

t hat I may be abl e t o change i t yet somewhat mor e, wi t h

some at l east of t hose who have t he pat i ence and ki ndness

t o l i st en t o me t hi s eveni ng.

And now l et me t ur n t o t hose who wer e t he st aunch

f r i ends of t he Nor t h f r om t he ver y out set . They wer e

gat her ed f r om al l r anks and al l par t s of t he ki ngdom.

They wer e br ought i n by al l sor t s of mot i ves. Some f ew

had st udi ed your hi st or y, and knew t hat t hese Sout her n

Page 249 of 259

men had been t he onl y r eal enemi es of t hei r count r y on

Amer i can soi l si nce t he War of I ndependence. Many

f ol l owed t hei r ol d ant i - sl aver y t r adi t i ons f ai t hf ul l y, and

cast t hei r l ot at once agai nst t he sl ave- owner s, car el ess of

t he r ei t er at ed asser t i ons, bot h on your si de of t he At l ant i c

and our s, t hat t he Uni on and not abol i t i on was t he i ssue.

Many came because t hey had l ear ned t o l ook upon your

l and as t he gr eat home f or t he poor of al l nat i ons, and t o

l ove her i nst i t ut i ons and r ej oi ce i n her gr eat ness as t hough

t hey i n some sor t bel onged t o t hemsel ves. Al l f el t t he

t r emendous si gni f i cance of t he st r uggl e, and t hat t he f ut ur e

39 2 Vacat i on Rambl es

of t hei r own count r y was al most as deepl y i nvol ved as t he

f ut ur e of Amer i ca. To al l of t hem t he nobl e wor ds of one

of your gr eat est poet s and st aunchest pat r i ot s, whi ch r ang

out i n t he dar kest moment s of t he f i r st year of t he war ,

st r uck a chor d ver y deep i n t hei r hear t s, and expr essed i n

undyi ng wor ds t hat whi ch t hey wer e t r yi ng t o ut t er : —

st r ange New Wor l d, t het yi t wast never young,

Whose yout h f r om t hee by gr i pi n' need was wr ung,

Br own f oundl i n' o' t he woods, whose baby- bed

Was pr owl ed r oun' by t he I nj un' s cr ackl i n' t r ead,

An' who gr ew' st st r ong t hr u shi f t s an' want s an' pai ns,

Nussed by st er n men wi t h empi r es i n t hei r br ai ns,

Who saw i n vi si on t hei r young I shmel st r ai n

Wi t h each har d hand a vassal ocean' s mane,

Thou, ski l l ed by Fr eedom an' by gr et event s

To pi t ch new St at es ez Ol d- Wor l d men pi t ch t ent s,

Thou, t aught by Fat e t o know Jehovah' s pl an

Thet man' s devi ces can' t unmake a man,

An' whose f r ee l at ch- st r i ng never was dr awed i n

Agai nst t he poor est chi l d of Adam' s ki n, —

The gr ave' s not dug wher e t r ai t or hands shal l l ay

I n f ear f ul hast e t hy mur der ed cor se away !

I t was i n t hi s f ai t h t hat we t ook our st and, wi t h a f i r m

r esol ut i on t hat no ef f or t of our s shoul d be spar ed t o hel p

your peopl e shake t hemsel ves cl ear of t he dead wei ght of

sl aver y, and t o pr eser ve t hat vast i nher i t ance of whi ch God

has made you t he guar di ans and t r ust ees f or al l t he nat i ons

of t he ear t h, unbr oken, and f r ee f r om t he st andi ng ar mi es,

di sput ed boundar i es, and wr et ched hear t - bur ni ngs and

Page 250 of 259

di ssensi ons of t he Ol d Wor l d. I t was l i t t l e enough t hat

we coul d do i n any case, but t hat l i t t l e was done wi t h al l

our hear t s, and on l ooki ng back I cannot but t hi nk was

wel l done.

Ther e was no need at f i r st f or any or gani sat i on. Unt i l

af t er t he bat t l e of Manassas Junct i on i n 1861, t her e was

scar cel y any publ i c expr essi on of sympat hy wi t h t he

r ebel l i on. The Ti mes and t hat por t i on of t he pr ess whi ch

f ol l ows i t s l ead, and i s al ways r eady t o go i n f or t he si de

Vacat i on Rambl es 393

t hey t hi nk wi l l wi n, wer e l ect ur i ng on t he wi ckedness of

t he war and t he absur di t y of t he r ebel St at es i n supposi ng

t hat t hey coul d r esi st f or a mont h t he st r engt h of t he

Nor t h. The news of t hat f i r st def eat ar r i ved, and t hi s

por t i on of our pr ess swung r ound, and t he st r ong f eel i ng

i n f avour of t he r ebel l i on whi ch l eavened soci et y and

t he commer ci al wor l d began t o mani f est i t sel f . The

unl ucky Tr ent busi ness, and your cont i nued want of success

i n t he f i el d, made mat t er s wor se. We wer e si l enced f or

t he moment ; f or t hough, put t i ng our sel ves i n your pl aces,

we coul d f eel how bi t t er t he sur r ender of t he t wo ar ch-

r ebel s must have been, we coul d not but admi t t hat our

Gover nment was bound t o i nsi st upon i t , and t hat t he

demand had not been made i n an ar r ogant or of f ensi ve

manner . I f you wi l l r e- r ead t he of f i ci al document s now, I

t hi nk t hat you t oo wi l l acknowl edge t hat t hi s was so.

Then came Mr . Mason' s r esi dence i n London, wher e hi s

house became t he f ami l i ar r esor t of al l t he l eadi ng sym-

pat hi ser s wi t h t he r ebel l i on. The newspaper whi ch he

st ar t ed, The I ndex, was f ul l , week af t er week, of f al se and

mal i gnant at t acks on your Gover nment . The most bi t t er

of t hem t o us was t he const ant i nsi st ence, backed by

quot at i ons f r om Mr . Li ncol n and Mr . Sewar d, t hat t he

war had not hi ng t o do wi t h sl aver y, t hat emanci pat i on was

f ar mor e l i kel y t o come f r om t he r ebel s t han f r om you.

" The l i e t hat i s hal f a t r ut h i s ever t he bl ackest of l i es, "

and we f el t t he t r ut h of t hat wonder f ul sayi ng. Thi s had

been our gr eat di f f i cul t y f r om t he f i r st . Our gener at i on

had been r ear ed on ant i - sl aver y pr i nci pl es. AYe r emem-

ber ed as chi l dr en how t he gr eat bat t l e was won i n Engl and,

how even i n our nur ser i es we gave up sugar l est we mi ght

be t ast i ng t he accur sed t hi ng, and subscr i bed our penni es

t hat t he chai ns mi ght be st r uck f r om al l human l i mbs.

Emanci pat i on had been t he cr owni ng - l or y of Engl and i n

our eyes. But we f ound t hat t hi s gr eat f or ce was not wi t h

us, was even sl i ppi ng away and dr i f t i ng t o t he ot her si de.

I t was not onl y Mr . Mason' s paper , and 1 he hacki ng he got

i n our pr ess, whi ch was under mi ni ng i t . The vehement

394 Vacat i on Rambl es

o

Page 251 of 259

pr ot est s of t hose who had been f or year s l ooked on by us

as t he f or emost sol di er s i n t he gr eat cause on your si de

t ol d i n t he same di r ect i on. I wel l r emember t he const er -

nat i on and al most despai r wi t h whi ch I r ead i n Mr . Phi l l i ps'

speech i n t hi s hal l on 20t h June 1861, " The Republ i cans,

l ed by Sewar d, of f er t o sur r ender anyt hi ng t o save t he

Uni on. Thei r gospel i s t he const i t ut i on, and t he sl ave

cl ause t hei r ser mon on t he mount . They t hi nk t hat at t he

j udgment day t he bl acker t he si ns t hey have commi t t ed t o

save t he Uni on t he cl ear er wi l l be t hei r t i t l e t o heaven. "

Somet hi ng must be done t o count er act t hi s, t o put t he

case cl ear l y bef or e our peopl e. Mr . Mason and hi s f r i ends

wer e al r eady est abl i shi ng a Conf eder at e St at es Ai d Associ a-

t i on ; i t must be met by somet hi ng si mi l ar on t he r i ght

si de. So i n 1862 t he Emanci pat i on and t he Uni on and

Emanci pat i on Soci et i es wer e st ar t ed i n London and i n

Manchest er , and i n good t i me came Mr . Li ncol n' s pr o-

cl amat i on of emanci pat i on t o st r engt hen our hands. The

or i gi nal mani f est o of t he Emanci pat i on Soci et y sai d — " To

make i t cl ear by t he f or ce of i ndi sput abl e t est i mony t hat

t he Sout h i s f i ght i ng f or sl aver y, whi l e t he Nor t h i s f ul l y

commi t t ed t o t he dest r uct i on of sl aver y, i s t he pr i nci pal

obj ect f or whi ch t hi s soci et y i s or gani sed. I t s pr omot er s

do not bel i eve t hat Engl i sh ant i - sl aver y sent i ment i s dead

or enf eebl ed. They ar e conf i dent t hat when t he demands

and desi gns of t he Sout h ar e made cl ear , t her e wi l l be no

danger of Engl and bei ng ent i ced i nt o compl i ci t y wi t h

t hem. " We pl edged our sel ves t o t est t he opi ni on of t he

count r y ever ywher e by publ i c meet i ngs, and chal l enged

t he Conf eder at e St at es Ai d Associ at i on t o accept t hat t est .

They di d so ; but I never coul d hear of any even quasi

publ i c meet i ng but one whi ch t hey hel d i n Engl and. That

meet i ng was at Mr . Mason' s house, and was, I bel i eve,

at t ended by some f i f t y per sons.

The f i r st st ep of our soci et i es was t o hol d meet i ngs f or

passi ng an addr ess of congr at ul at i on t o your Pr esi dent on

t he publ i cat i on of t he Emanci pat i on pr ocl amat i on. I t was

New Year ' s Eve 1862. Our addr ess sai d: " We have

Vacat i on Rambl es 395

wat ched wi t h t he war mest i nt er est t he st eady advance of

your pol i cy al ong t he pat h of emanci pat i on ; and on t hi s

eve of t he cl ay on whi ch your pr ocl amat i on t akes ef f ect we

pr ay God t o st r engt hen your hands, t o conf i r m your nobl e

pur pose, and t o hast en t he r est or at i on of t hat l awf ul

aut hor i t y whi ch engages, i n peace or war , by compensat i on

or by f or ce of ar ms, t o r eal i se t he gl or i ous pr i nci pl e on

whi ch your const i t ut i on i s f ounded — t he br ot her hood,

f r eedom, and equal i t y of al l men. " The addr ess was

ent husi ast i cal l y adopt ed by a l ar ge meet i ng, chi ef l y com-

posed of wor ki ng men. I t was cl ear at once t hat t her e

was a gr and f or ce behi nd us, f or we became obj ect s of

f ur i ous at t ack. The Ti mes cal l ed us i mpost or s, and sai d

we got our f unds f or t he agi t at i on f r om Amer i can sour ces

— t he f act bei ng t hat we al ways r ef used cont r i but i ons f r om

t hi s si de. The Sat v/ r day Revi ew decl ar ed, i n one of i t s

bi t t er est ar t i cl es, t hat i f anyt hi ng coul d be cal cul at ed upon

as l i kel y t o def er i ndef i ni t el y t he gr adual ext i nct i on of

Page 252 of 259

sl aver y, i t woul d be Mr . Li ncol n' s f i ct i t i ous abol i t i on of i t .

We wer e meddl esome f anat i cs, i nsi gni f i cant nobodi es, mi s-

chi evous agi t at or s. Thi s was sat i sf act or y and encour agi ng.

We f el t sur e t hat , we had t aken t he r i ght cour se, and not

a moment t oo soon. Then came t he t est of publ i c meet -

i ngs, whi ch you at l east ar e sur el y bound t o accept as a

f ai r gauge of what a peopl e t hi nks and wi l l s.

Our f i r st was hel d on t he 29t h of Januar y 1 8G3. We t ook

Exet er Hal l , t he l ar gest and most cent r al hal l i n London.

We di d not hi ng but si mpl y adver t i se wi del y t hat such a

meet i ng woul d be hel d, i nvi t i ng al l who car ed t o come, f oes

as wel l as f r i ends. Pr udent and t i mi d peopl e shook t hei r

heads and l ooked gr ave. The cot t on f ami ne was at i t s

wor st , and t ens of t housands of our wor kpeopl e wer e

" cl emmi ng" as t hey cal l i t , st ar vi ng as you mi ght say.

Your pr ospect s l ooked as bl ack as t hey had ever done ; i t

was al most t he dar kest moment of t he whol e war . Even

f r i ends war ned us t hat we shoul d f ai l i n our obj ect , and

onl y do har m by showi ng our weakness; t hat t he Con-

f eder at e St at es Ai d Associ at i on woul d spar e no pai ns or

396 Vacat i on Rambl es

money t o br eak up t he meet i ng, and a hundr ed r oughs

sent t her e by t hem mi ght t ur n i t i nt o a t r i umph f or t he

r ebel l i on. However , on we went , — we knew our own

peopl e t oo wel l t o f ear t he r esul t . The ni ght came, and

f ami l i ar as I am wi t h t hi s ki nd of t hi ng, I have never seen

i n my t i me anyt hi ng appr oachi ng t hi s scene. Remember ,

t her e was not hi ng t o at t r act peopl e; no wel l - known

or at or s, f or we al ways t hought i t best t o keep our Par -

l i ament men t o t hei r own gr ound ; no gr eat success t o

r ej oi ce i n, f or you wer e j ust r eel i ng under t he r ecoi l of

your gal l ant ar my f r om t he bl ood- st ai ned hei ght s of

Fr eder i cksbur g ; no at t ack on our own Gover nment ; no

appeal t o pol i t i cal or soci al hat es or pr ej udi ces ; onl y door s

t hr own wi de open, wi t h t he i nvi t at i on, " Now l et Engl i sh-

men come f or war d and show on whi ch si de t hei r sympat hi es

r eal l y ar e i n t hi s war . " Not wi t hst andi ng al l t hese di sad-

vant ages t he gr eat hal l was densel y cr owded, so t hat t her e

was no st andi ng r oom, and t he St r and and t he nei ghbour -

i ng st r eet s bl ocked wi t h a cr owd of t housands who coul d

f i nd no pl ace, l ong bef or e t he door s wer e open. We wer e

obl i ged t o or gani se a number of meet i ngs on t he spur of

t he moment i n t he l ower hal l s, and even i n t he open st r eet s.

I n t he gr eat hal l — wher e t wo cl er gymen, t he Hon. Bapt i st

Noel and Mr . Newman Hal l , and I mysel f , wer e t he chi ef

speaker s — as wel l as i n ever y one of t he ot her meet i ngs,

we car r i ed, not onl y wi t hout opposi t i on, but , so f ar as I

r emember , wi t hout a si ngl e hand bei ng hel d up on t he

ot her si de, r esol ut i ons i n f avour of your Gover nment , of

t he Uni on, and of emanci pat i on. The success was so

compl et e t hat i n London our wor k was done.

Then f ol l owed si mi l ar meet i ngs at Manchest er , Shef f i el d,

Br i st ol , Leeds, i n al l t he gr eat cent r es of popul at i on, wi t h

pr eci sel y t he same r esul t . I don' t r emember t hat t he

enemy ever even at t empt ed t o di vi de a meet i ng. The

count r y was car r i ed by accl amat i on. Our f r i ends i n

Li ver pool wr ot e wi t h some anxi et y as t o t he st at e of f eel -

i ng t her e, and asked me t o go down and del i ver an addr ess.

Page 253 of 259

I went , and t he meet i ng car r i ed t he same r esol ut i ons by a

Vacat i on Rambl es 397

ver y l ar ge maj or i t y ; and t hose who, i t was supposed,

came t o di st ur b t he pr oceedi ngs, t hought bet t er of i t when

t hey saw t he t emper of t he audi ence, and wer e qui et .

Wi t hout t r oubl i ng you wi t h any f ur t her det ai l s of our

wor k, I may j ust add, as a pr oof of how t hose who pr of ess

t o be t he most ast ut e wor shi pper s of publ i c opi ni on changed

t hei r mi nds i n consequence of t he answer of t he count r y t o

our appeal s, t hat i n August 1863 t he Ti mes suppor t ed our

demand on t he Gover nment f or t he st oppage of t he st eam-

r ams.

I n addi t i on t o t hi s pol i t i cal movement , we i nst i t ut ed

al so a number of f r eedmen' s ai d associ at i ons, i n or der t hat

t hose abol i t i oni st s i n Engl and who wer e st i l l unabl e t o put

f ai t h i n your Gover nment mi ght have an oppor t uni t y of

hel pi ng i n t hei r own way. These associ at i ons ent er ed i nt o

cor r espondence wi t h t hose on your si de, and sent over a

goot l many t housand pounds' wor t h of cl ot hi ng and ot her

suppl i es, besi des money. I f or get t he exact amount . I t

was a mer e dr op i n t he ocean of your magni f i cent war

char i t i es, but i t came f r om t housands who had l i t t l e enough

t o spar e i n t hose har d t i mes, and I t r ust has had t he ef f ect

of a peace- of f er i ng wi t h t hose of your peopl e who ar e con-

ver sant wi t h t he f act s, and ar e r eady t o j udge by t hei r

act ual doi ngs even t hose agai nst whom t hey t hi nk t hey

have f ai r cause of compl ai nt .

So much f or what I may cal l t he unof f i ci al , or ext r a-

par l i ament ar y, st r uggl e i n Engl and dur i ng your war . And

now l et me t ur n t o t he act i on of our Gover nment and of

Par l i ament . I mi ght f ai r l y have r est ed my case ent i r el y

upon t hi s gr ound. I n t he case of nat i ons bl essed as

Amer i ca and Engl and ar e wi t h per f ect f r eedom of speech

and act i on wi t hi n t he l i mi t s of l aw — wher e men may

say t he t hi ng t hey wi l l f r eel y, and wi t hout any cheek but

t he ci vi l cour t s — no one i n my j udgment has a r i ght t o

make t he nat i on r esponsi bl e f or anyt hi ng except what i t s

Gover nment says and does. But I know how deepl y t he

conduct and speech of Engl i sh soci et y has out r aged your

peopl e, and st i l l r ankl es i n t hei r mi nds, and I wi shed by

3 98 Vacat i on Rambl es

some r ough anal ysi s, and by t he st at ement of f act s wi t hi n

my own knowl edge, and of doi ngs i n whi ch I per sonal l y

t ook an act i ve par t , t o show you t hat you have done us

ver y scant j ust i ce. The dr ess sui t , and t he st omach and

di gest i ve appar at us, of Engl and wer e host i l e t o you, and

you have t aken t hem f or t he nat i on : t he br ai n and hear t

and muscl e of Engl and wer e on your si de, and t hese you

have i gnor ed and f or got t en.

Now, f or our Gover nment and Par l i ament . I wi l l

admi t at once, i f you pl ease, t hat Lor d Pal mer st on and

t he pr i nci pal member s of hi s Cabi net wer e not f r i endl y t o

you, and woul d have been gl ad t o have seen your Republ i c

Page 254 of 259

br oken up. I am by no means sur e t hat i t was so ; but

l et t hat pass. I was not i n t hei r counsel s, and have no

mor e means of j udgi ng of t hem t han ar e open t o al l of

you. Your f i r st accusat i on agai nst us i s, t hat t he Queen' s

pr ocl amat i on of neut r al i t y, whi ch was si gned and publ i shed

on t he 13t h of May 1861, was pr emat ur e, and an act of

di scour t esy t o your Gover nment , i nasmuch as your new

Mi ni st er , Mr . Adams, onl y ar r i ved i n Engl and on t hat ver y

day. Wel l , l ooki ng back f r om t hi s di st ance of t i me, I

qui t e admi t t hat i t woul d have been f ar bet t er t o have

del ayed t he publ i cat i on of t he pr ocl amat i on t i l l af t er he

had ar r i ved i n London. But at t he t i me t he case was

ver y di f f er ent . You must r emember t hat news of t he

Pr esi dent ' s pr ocl amat i on of t he bl ockade r eached London

on 3r d May. Of cour se, f r om t hat moment t he cl anger of

col l i si on bet ween our vessel s and your s, and of t he f i t t i ng

out of pr i vat eer s i n our har bour s, ar ose at once. I n f act ,

your f i r st capt ur e of a Br i t i sh vessel , t he Gener al Par kl ul l of

Li ver pool , was made on 1 2t h May. But i f t he publ i cat i on

of t he pr ocl amat i on of neut r al i t y was a mi st ake, i t was

made by our Gover nment at t he ear nest sol i ci t at i on of Mr .

For st er and ot her war m f r i ends of your s, who pr essed i t

f or war d ent i r el y, as t hey supposed, i n your i nt er est . They

want ed t o st op l et t er s of mar que and t o l egi t i mi se t he

capt ur es made by your bl ockadi ng squadr on. The Gover n-

ment act ed at t hei r i nst ance ; so, whet her a bl under or not ,

Vacat i on Rambl es 399

t he pr ocl amat i on was not an unf r i endl y act . Besi des,

r emember what i t amount ed t o. Si mpl y and sol el y t o a

r ecogni t i on of t he f act t hat you had a ser i ous war on hand.

Mr . Sewar d had al r eady admi t t ed t hi s i n an of f i ci al paper

of t he 4t h of May, and your Supr eme Cour t deci ded, i n

t he case of t he Amy War wi ck, t hat t he pr ocl amat i on of

bl ockade was i n i t sel f concl usi ve evi dence t hat a st at e of

war exi st ed at t he t i me. I f we had ever gone a st ep

f ur t her — i f we had r ecogni sed t he i ndependence of t he

r ebel St at es, as our Gover nment was st r ongl y ur ged t o do

by t hei r envoys, by member s of our Par l i ament , and l ast l y

by t he Emper or of t he Fr ench — you woul d have had good

gr ound of of f ence. But t hi s was pr eci sel y what we never

woul d do ; and when t hey f ound t hi s out , t he Conf eder at e

Gover nment cut of f al l i nt er cour se wi t h Engl and, and

expel l ed our consul s f r om t hei r t owns. So one si de bl amed

us f or doi ng t oo much, and t he ot her f or doi ng t oo l i t t l e —

t he f r equent f at e of neut r al s, as you your sel ves ar e f i ndi ng

at t hi s moment i n t he case of t he war bet ween Pr ussi a and

Fr ance.

Then came t he f i r st publ i c ef f or t of t he sympat hi ser s

wi t h t he r ebel l i on. Af t er sever al pr el i mi nar y ski r mi shes,

whi ch wer e def eat ed by Mr . For st er ( who had what we

l awyer s shoul d cal l t he wat chi ng br i ef , wi t h Cohden and

Br i ght behi nd hi m as l eadi ng counsel , and who used t o go

r ound t he l obbi es i n t hose anxi ous days wi t h hi s pocket s

bul gi ng out wi t h document s t o pr ove how ef f ect i ve t he-

bl ockade was, and how many shi ps of our mer chant s yon

wer e capt ur i ng ever y day) , Mr . Gr egor y put a mot i on on

t he paper . He was wel l chosen f or t he pur pose, as a

member of gr eat exper i ence and abi l i t y, si t t i n- - on our si de

of t he House, so t hat weak- kneed Li ber al s woul d have an

Page 255 of 259

excuse f or f ol l owi ng hi m, and t hough not hi msel f i n of f i ce,

supposed t o be on i nt i mat e t er ms wi t h t he Pr emi er and

ot her member s of t he Cabi net . Hi s mot i on was si mpl y

" t o cal l t he at t ent i on of t he House t o t he expedi ency of

pr ompt r ecogni t i on of t he Sout her n Conf eder acy. ' 1

I t was set down f or 7t h June 1861, and I t el l you we

4- 00 Vacat i on Rambl es

wer e al l pr et t y ner vous about t he r esul t . The Spect at or ,

Dai l y News, St ar , and ot her st aunch paper s opened f i r e, and

we al l di d what we coul d i n t he way of canvassi ng ; but

unt i l t he Gover nment had decl ar ed i t sel f no Uni on man

coul d f eel saf e. Wel l , Lor d John Russel l , as t he For ei gn

Mi ni st er , got up, snubbed t he mot i on al t oget her , sai d t hat

t he Gover nment had no i nt ent i on what ever of agr eei ng t o

i t , and r ecommended i t s wi t hdr awal . So Mr . Gr egor y and

hi s f r i ends t ook t hei r mot i on of f t he paper wi t hout a

debat e, and di d not vent ur e t o t r y any ot her dur i ng t he

sessi on of 1861. I n t he l at e aut umn came t he unl ucky Tr ent

af f ai r , t o whi ch I have al r eady suf f i ci ent l y al l uded. Rel yi ng

on t he f eel i ng whi ch had been r oused by i t , and cheer ed

on by t he Mason cl ub i n Pi ccadi l l y and t he I ndex news -

paper f ul mi nat i ons, and by t he sever e checks of t he Uni on

ar mi es, t hey t ook t he f i el d agai n i n 1862. Thi s t i me t hei r

t act i cs wer e bol der . They no l onger conf i ned t hemsel ves

t o aski ng t he opi ni on of t he House def er ent i al l y. Mr .

Li ndsay, t he gr eat shi powner , who i t was sai d had a smal l

f l eet of bl ockade- r unner s, was chosen as t he spokesman.

He gave not i ce of mot i on, " That i n t he opi ni on of t hi s

House, t he St at es whi ch have seceded f r om t he Uni on have

so l ong mai nt ai ned t hemsel ves, and gi ven such pr oof s of

det er mi nat i on and abi l i t y t o suppor t i ndependence, t hat

t he pr opr i et y of of f er i ng medi at i on wi t h a vi ew t o t er -

mi nat i ng host i l i t i es i s wor t hy of t he ser i ous and i mmedi at e

at t ent i on of Her Maj est y' s Gover nment . " Agai n we

t r embl ed f or t he r esul t , and agai n t he Gover nment came

out wi t h a squar e r ef usal on t he 18t h of Jul y, and t hi s

mot i on shar ed t he f at e of i t s pr edecessor , and was wi t h-

dr awn by i t s own pr omot er s.

Then came t he escape of t he Al abama. Upon t hi s I

have no wor d t o say. My pr i vat e opi ni on has been

expr essed over and over agai n i n Par l i ament ( wher e i n my

f i r st year , 1866, I t hi nk I was t he f i r st man t o ur ge open

ar bi t r at i on on our Gover nment ) as wel l as on t he pl at f or m

and i n t he pr ess. But I st and her e t o- ni ght as an Engl i sh-

man, and say t hat at t hi s moment I have no cause t o be

Vacat i on Rambl es 401

ashamed of t he at t i t ude of my count r y. Two Gover n-

ment s i n successi on, Tor y and Li ber al , t hr ough Lor ds

St anl ey and Cl ar endon, have admi t t ed ( as Mr . Fi sh st at es

hi msel f i n hi s l ast despat ch on t he subj ect ) t he pr i nci pl e

of compr ehensi ve ar bi t r at i on on al l quest i ons bet ween

Gover nment s. Thi s i s al l t hat a nat i on can do. Engl and

i s r eady t o have t he case i n al l i t s bear i ngs r ef er r ed t o

i mpar t i al ar bi t r at i on, and t o pay what ever damages may

Page 256 of 259

be assessed agai nst her wi t hout a mur mur . She has al so

agr eed ( and agai n I use t he l anguage of Mr . Fi sh) " t o

di scuss t he i mpor t ant changes i n t he r ul es of publ i c l aw,

t he desi r abl eness of whi ch has been demonst r at ed by t he

i nci dent s of t he l ast f ew year s, and whi ch, i n vi ew of t he

mar i t i me pr omi nence of Gr eat Br i t ai n and t he Uni t ed

St at es, i t woul d bef i t t hem t o mat ur e and pr opose t o t he

ot her st at es of Chr i st endom. " She has, i n f act , sur r ender ed

her ol d posi t i on as unt enabl e, and agr eed t o t he t er ms

pr oposed by your own Gover nment . What mor e can you

ask of a nat i on of your own bl ood, as pr oud and sensi t i ve

as your sel ves on al l poi nt s wher e nat i onal honour i s i n

quest i on 1

But her e I must r emi nd you of one f act whi ch you seem

never t o have r eal i sed. The Al abama was t he onl y one of

t he r ebel cr ui ser s of whose char act er our Gover nment had

any not i ce, whi ch escaped f r om our har bour s. The Sk&nan-

doah was a mer chant vessel , empl oyed i n t he I ndi an t r ade

as t he Sea Ki ng. Her conver si on i nt o a r ebel cr ui ser was

never hear d of t i l l l ong af t er she had l ef t Engl and. The

Geor gi a was act ual l y r epor t ed by t he sur veyor of t he Bonn I

of Tr ade as a mer chant shi p, and t o be " r at her cr ank. "

She was f i t t ed out on t he Fr ench coast , and l ef t t he por t

of Cher bour g f or her f i r st cr ui se. The Fl or i da was f i t t ed

out i n Mobi l e. She was act ual l y det ai ned at Nassau on

suspi ci on, and onl y di schar ged by t he Admi r al t y Cour t

t her e on f ai l ur e of evi dence. On t he ot her hand, our

Gover nment st opped t he Bappahanmck, t he Al exandr a, and

t he Pamper o, and sei zed Mr . Lai r d' s cel ebr at ed r ams at

Li ver pool , and Capt ai n Osbor ne' s Chi nese f l ot i l l a, f or

2 D

4- 02 Vacat i on Rambl es

whi ch l ast exer ci se of vi gi l ance t he nat i on had t o pay

100, 000.

Suc h i s our c as e as t o t he c r ui s er s whi c h di d y ou s o

muc h damage. I bel i ev e i t t o be t r ue. I f we ar e mi s -

t ak en, howev er , y ou wi l l get s uc h damages f or eac h and

al l of t hes e v es s el s as t he ar bi t r at or may awar d. We

r es er v e not hi ng. I as an Engl i s hman am deepl y gr i ev ed

t hat any of my c ount r y men, f or bas e l ov e of gai n or any

ot her mot i v e, s houl d hav e dar ed t o def y t he pr oc l amat i on

of my Sov er ei gn, s peak i ng i n t he nat i on' s name. I ear nes t l y

l ong f or t he t i me when by wi s e c ons ul t at i on bet ween our

nat i ons , and t he modi f i c at i on of t he publ i c l aw bear i ng on

suc h c as es , not onl y s uc h ac t s as t hes e, but al l war at s ea,

shal l be r ender ed i mpos s i bl e. The Uni t ed St at es and

Engl and hav e onl y t o agr ee i n t hi s mat t er , and t her e i s

an end of nav al war t hr ough t he whol e wor l d.

I n 1863 t he hor i z on was s t i l l dar k . Spl endi d as y our

ef f or t s had been, and magni f i c ent as was t he at t i t ude of

your nat i on, t r i ed i n t he f i r e as f ew nat i ons hav e been i n

al l hi s t or y , t hos e ef f or t s had not y et been c r owned wi t h

any mar k ed s uc c es s . AVi t h us i t was t he dar k es t i n t he

whol e l ong agony , f or i n i t c ame t he c r i s i s of t hat at t empt

of t he Emper or of t he Fr enc h t o i nv ei gl e us i n a j oi nt

r ec ogni t i on of t he Conf eder ac y , on t he s uc c es s of whi c h hi s

Page 257 of 259

Mex i c an adv ent ur e was s uppos ed t o hang. The det ai l s of

t hos e negot i at i ons hav e nev er been made publ i c . Al l we

know i s , t hat Mr . Li nds ay and Mr . Eoebuc k went t o Par i s

and had l ong c onf er enc es wi t h Napol eon, t he r es ul t of

whi c h was t he ef f or t of Mr . Eoebuc k ( now i n t ur n t he

r epr es ent at i v e of t he r ebel s i n our Par l i ament ) t o f or c e or

per s uade our Gov er nment i nt o t hi s al l i anc e. Then c ame

t he f i nal c r i s i s . On t he 30t h of J une 1863, a day memor -

abl e i n our hi s t or y as i n y our s , at t he v er y t i me t hat y our

ar my of t he Pot omac was hur r y i ng t hr ough t he s t r eet s of

Get t y s bur g t o meet t he s woop of t hos e t er r i bl e Sout her n

l egi ons , J ohn Br i ght s t ood on t he f l oor of our Hous e of

Commons , on f i r e wi t h t hat r i ght eous wr at h whi c h has s o

of t en l i f t ed hi m abov e t he heads of ot her Engl i s h or at or s .

Vac at i on Rambl es 403

He dr agged t he whol e pl ot t o l i ght , quot ed t he f or mer

at t ac k s of Mr . Roebuc k on hi s I mper i al hos t , and t hen

t ur ni ng t o t he Speak er , went on, " And now, s i r , t he

honour abl e and l ear ned gent l eman has been t o Par i s ,

i nt r oduc ed t her e by t he honour abl e member f or Sunder -

l and, and he has s ought t o bec ome, as i t wer e, a c o- c on-

spi r at or wi t h t he Fr enc h Emper or , t o dr ag t hi s c ount r y

i nt o a pol i c y whi c h I mai nt ai n i s as hos t i l e t o i t s i nt er es t s

as i t woul d be degr adi ng t o i t s honour . " Fr om t hat

moment t he c aus e of t he r ebel l i on was l os t i n Engl and ;

f or by t he nex t mai l s c ame t he news of t he t hr ee day s '

f i ght , and t he mel t i ng away of Longs t r eet ' s c or ps i n t he

f i nal and des per at e ef f or t s t o br eak t he Feder al l i ne on t he

sl opes of l i t t l e Round Top. A f ew week s mor e and we

hear d of t he s ur r ender of Yi c k s bur g, and no mor e was

hear d i n our Par l i ament of r ec ogni t i on or medi at i on.

I hav e now, my f r i ends , s t at ed t he c as e bet ween our

count r i es f r om an Engl i s hman' s poi nt of v i ew, of c our s e,

but I hope f ai r l y and t emper at el y . At any r at e, I hav e

onl y s pok en of mat t er s wi t hi n my own per s onal k nowl edge,

and hav e onl y quot ed f r om publ i c r ec or ds whi c h ar e as

open t o ev er y one of y ou as t hey ar e t o me. Sear c h t hem,

I bes eec h y ou, and s ee whet her I am r i ght or not . I f

wr ong, i t i s f r om no i ns ul ar pr ej udi c es or nat i onal c onc ei t ,

and y ou wi l l at any r at e t hi nk k i ndl y and bear wi t h t he

er r or s of one who has al way s l ov ed y our nat i on wel l ,

t hr ough good r epor t and ev i l r epor t , and i s now bound t o

i t by a hundr ed new and pr ec i ous t i es . I f r i ght , al l I beg

of y ou i s , t o us e y our i nf l uenc es t hat ol d hat r eds and pr e-

j udi c es may di s appear , and Amer i c a and Engl and may

mar c h t oget her , as nat i ons r edeemed by a c ommon Sav i our ,

t owar d t he goal whi c h i s s et f or t hem i n a br i ght er f ut ur e.

Shal l i t be l ov e, or hat e, J ohn . '

I t ' s y ou t het ' s t o dec i de ;

Ai n' t y our bonds hel d by Fat e, J ohn,

Li k e al l t he wor l d' s bes i de ?

So r uns t he end of t he s ol emn appeal i n " J onat han t o

Page 258 of 259

404 Vac at i on Rambl es

John, " t he poem whi c h s ugges t ed t he t i t l e of t hi s l ec t ur e.

I t c omes f r om one who nev er deal s i n wi l d wor ds . I am

pr oud t o he abl e t o c al l hi m a v er y dear and ol d f r i end.

He i s t he Amer i c an wr i t er who di d mor e t han any ot her

t o t eac h s uc h of us i n t he ol d c ount r y as ev er l ear ned t hem

at al l , t he r i ght s and wr ongs of t hi s gr eat s t r uggl e of y our s .

Ques t i ons as k ed by s uc h men c an nev er be s af el y l ef t on

one s i de. Wel l , t hen, I s ay we hav e ans wer ed t hem. We

know — no nat i on, I bel i ev e, k nows bet t er , or c onf es s es

dai l y wi t h mor e of awe — t hat our bonds ar e hel d by f at e ;

t hat a s t r i c t ac c ount of al l t he mi ght y t al ent s whi c h hav e

been c ommi t t ed t o us wi l l be r equi r ed of us Engl i s h, t hough

we do l i v e i n a s ea f or t r es s , i n whi c h t he gl eam of s t eel

dr awn i n anger has not been s een f or mor e t han a c ent ur y .

We k now t hat we ar e v er y f ar f r om bei ng what we ought

t o be ; we k now t hat we hav e gr eat s oc i al pr obl ems

t o wor k out , and, bel i ev e me, we hav e s et manf ul l y t o

wor k t o s ol v e t hem,

— pr obl ems whi c h go r i ght down

amongs t t he r oot s of t hi ngs , and t he wr ong s ol ut i on of

whi c h may s hak e t he v er y f oundat i ons of s oc i et y . We

hav e t o f ac e t hem manf ul l y , af t er t he manner of our r ac e,

wi t hi n t he f our c or ner s of an i s l and not bi gger t han one

of y our l ar ge St at es ; whi l e y ou hav e t he v as t el bow- r oom

of t hi s wonder f ul c ont i nent , wi t h al l i t s mi l l i on out l et s

and oppor t uni t i es f or ev er y human bei ng who i s r eady t o

wor k . Yes , our bonds ar e i ndeed hel d by f at e, but we ar e

t ak i ng s t r i c t ac c ount of t he number and amount of t hem,

and mean, by God' s hel p, t o di s honour none of t hem when

t he t i me c omes f or t ak i ng t hem up. We r ec k on, t oo, s ome

of us , t hat as y ear s r ol l on, and y ou get t o under s t and us

bet t er , we may y et hear t he wor ds " Wel l done, br ot her , "

f r om t hi s s i de of t he At l ant i c ; and i f t he s t r ong ol d

i s l ander , who, af t er al l , i s y our f at her , s houl d happen s ome

day t o want a name on t he bac k of one of hi s bi l l s , I , f or

one, s houl d not wonder t o hear t hat at t he t i me of pr e-

sent at i on t he name J onat han i s f ound s c r awl ed ac r os s

t her e i n v er y dec i ded c har ac t er s . For we hav e ans wer ed

t hat s ec ond ques t i on, t oo, s o f ar as i t l i es i n our power .

Vac at i on Rambl es 405

I t wi l l be l ov e and not hat e bet ween t he t wo f r ees t of t he

gr eat nat i ons of t he ear t h, i f our dec i s i on c an s o s et t l e i t .

Ther e wi l l nev er be any t hi ng but l ov e agai n, i f Engl and

has t he c as t i ng v ot e. For r emember t hat t he f or c e of t he

dec i s i on of y our gr eat s t r uggl e has not been s pent on t hi s

cont i nent . Your v i c t or y has s t r engt hened t he hands and

hear t s of t hos e who ar e s t r i v i ng i n t he c aus e of gov er n-

ment , f or t he peopl e by t he peopl e, i n ev er y c or ner of t he

Ol d Wor l d. I n Engl and t he dam t hat had f or s o many

year s hel d bac k t he f r ee wat er s bur s t i n t he s ame y ear

t hat y ou s heat hed y our s wor d, and now y our f r i ends t her e

ar e t r i umphant and honour ed ; and i f t hos e who wer e y our

f oes ev er - r et ur n t o power y ou wi l l f i nd t hat t he l es s on of

your war has not been l os t on t hem. I n anot her s i x y ear s

you wi l l hav e f i ni s hed t he f i r s t c ent ur y of y our nat i onal

l i f e. By t hat t i me y ou wi l l hav e gr own t o f i f t y mi l l i ons ,

and wi l l hav e s ubdued and s et t l ed t hos e v as t wes t er n

r egi ons , whi c h now i n t he r i c hnes s of t hei r s ol i t udes , br ok en

onl y by t he pant i ng of t he engi ne as i t pas s es onc e a day

Page 259 of 259

ov er s ome new pr ai r i e l i ne, s t ar t l es t he t r av el l er f r om t he

Ol d Wor l d. I am onl y ec hoi ng t he t hought s and pr ay er s

of my nat i on i n wi s hi ng y ou God- s peed i n y our gr eat

mi s s i on. When t hat c ent enar y c omes r ound, 1 hope, i f I

l i v e, t o s ee t he gr eat f ami l y of Engl i s h- s peak i ng nat i ons

gi r dl i ng t he ear t h wi t h a c i r c l e of f r ee and happy c om-

muni t i es , i n whi c h t he angel s ' mes s age of peac e on ear t h

and good- wi l l amongs t men may not be s t i l l a moc k er y

and del us i on. I t r es t s wi t h y ou t o det er mi ne whet her

t hi s s hal l be s o or not . May t he God of al l t he nat i ons of

t he ear t h, who has s o mar v el l ous l y pr os per ed y ou hi t her t o,

and br ought y ou t hr ough s o gr eat t r i al s , gui de y ou i n

your dec i s i on !